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The Picayune, New Orleans, La.

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THE PICAYUNE BUILDINGS.

CHAPTER I

'•New Orleans has a personality, "so a poet-lover declared, 'way back in
those dim and dreary days when the old French and Spanish City, glorying in
hef title of '"Le Petit Paris," carried the New World's commerce on the broad
river that rushed past her shores, and the New World's romance and poetry
in her heart.

*'New Orleans has a personality, and studying her in all h?r changeful
moods and phases one might almost say that New Orleans has a soul."
To-day, with the crown of one hundred years of American pr.jgress encir-
cling her brows, this fair child of two centuries and two continents, this
imperial daughter of France and Spain, flings her beautiful banners to the
breeze, and with ttie line, true impulse born of her historic descent and
proud ancestral heritage, gives to the world in the revival of th2 songs and
stories and traditions of Louisiana, the grandest note ever struck in this
American Continent since the paean of American liberty was sDunded amid
the lire and smoke of Bunker Hill.

With far greater truth may it be said to-day that this great, slorious,
intelligent, sentient city of New Orleans has a soul. Existing apart from and
superior to all the other cities that have been founded in this immense area
of which she was one hundred years ago the central thought and figure. New
Orleans stands to-day amid the vast aggregation of cities of the Union pecu-
liar, unique, charming and gracious, speaking to the tourist as only a city
with her hist iry and traditions may speak, and holding them under the spell
of a fascinating charm that is always felt, but which one vainly seeks to ana-
\vT.e or understand.

Into this ancient city oi varied lights and colors, of strange contrasts and
fine individuality, this new city of high hopes and promises and fulfilled
pledges, the Picayune Guide invites the tourist, and whether you wander
leisurely through the old French Quarter, teeming with the songs and stories
of other days, and reflecting a quaint life unlike that of any other city of the
American continent, or whether you drive through the rose-scented roadways
of her beautiful American section catching the fragrance of orange blossoms
and magnolias, you will at once understand by intuition, how the heart of the
poet was moved, when it brought forth that tine tribute ''New Orleans has
a soul."

■ You will realize more and more the mystery of her nameless charm when
you study her wimderful complexity of life, her ever changing moods, the
smiles that now ripple over her beautiful face, the tears that anon dim her
eyes in sympathy and thought. See her old French and Spanish streets, and
queer houses with quaint tunnel-like entrances peculiar to the architecture
of the Spanish settlers in the latter portion of the seventeenth century. Visit
her old ciriosity shops and read in the many rich and rare objects exposed
for sale the stories of the heart aches and tragedies and sacrifices of a once
regal people. Turn to her main thoroughfare, and here you will see the daz-
zling spectacle of a great modern street, blazing with lights and astir with the
gay life that circles and crosses and dashes along like a splendid moving pic-
ture; and within a stone's throw, in the twinkling of an eye, all is changed and
you will find amid ruined homes, the stately dignity of the old Spanish days,
and the quaint customs of a period that has passed forever, but which stand
out in striking contrast to the customs of this busy, rushing age, and which
have for the poet and student the soft and tender glow of an autumnal twi-
light's lingering adieu.

Such is New Orleans, rich in her history, her traditions, her poetry, her
lore. New Orleans, fair and fragrant as the beautiful roses that bloom in her
open gardens; sweet and stately as the maidens in the old world pictures that
smile in the homes of the ancient Latin quarter.

It may truthfully be said that the New Orleans of to-day is not the New
Orleans of yesterday; neither will it be the New Orleans of to-morrow. The
year 1!)()3 especially marked an era of prosperity that rivalled the palmiest
period of ante-bellum days, f^verywhere the busy hum of activity was heard
on the streets, everywhere the march of improvements still i^oes on. New
and handsome buildings are being erected, some for public others for private
uses; but all indicating the capital is flowing in the direction of the city,
and the taste and culture of the people who are coming to make their home
among us. Even the dreamy old French Quarter has been invaded by the
spirit of progress, and one of her most historic squares has had its buildings
demolished to make way for a magniticent new Courthouse,

Loner ago it was said that in the rubbish of the old Spanish city Alladm s"
lamp w; s hidden. So it seems, and the people themselves are the Magician;
their earnest work for the advancemen-t of New Orleans challenges admi-
ration.

OLD COLONIAL HOME.

From Southport to Port Chalmette, every change, since the Picayune
Guide Beck was last issued, has been carefully noted. The present edition
is therefore thoroughly up-to-date and reliable, and as such commends itself
to the tourist.

New Orleans is not to be seen in a day. Visitors must linger here
beneath the sunny skies and tropical palms, must wander at will through the
old French streets and get a glimpse into those old Creole homes that stran-
gers generally only see from the streets, they must visit the French Market,
they must go to West End and have a lish breakfast looking over the waters of
Lake Pontchartrain, they must see the wonderful Carnival pageants
and gorgeous balls, and even then they will not know New
Orleans till they have known its people, its generous warm-hearted
sunny people. Whatever of changes takes place in the city itself,
there' is one thing that does not change, and that is the heart of the
people. True as the beautiful skies that hover over their ancient hemes, they
are like those homes themselves, tender and faithful, with love and memory
dwelling with gracious charm upon the past, and hope and promise pointing
brightly to the future. They bid you ct^rne and loiter here, as the old saying
CToes, "till you have drank the waters of the Mississippi." and perhaps when
you will know them better, you too will do as many another tourist has done,
come back some day to make your abode in this dear old city of infinite
charm and infinite promise, that lays her lavish gifts at your feet, and bids
you come and "be at home" with her.

CHAPTER II

A Short History of New Orleans.

In order to properly see and appreciate New Orleans the stranger must
kr.ow sonicthiujr of its liistory.

Louisiana was discovered by the Chevalier Robert de La Salle, who ex-
plored the Mississippi River from its source to the sea in 1682, taking possession
of '.ho entire country in the name of Louis XIV. King of France. He called
the country I>ouisiana in honor of his King. Louisiana comprised all that coun-
try extending from British America on the north to the Gulf of Mexico on the
south, and west of the Mississippi to the Pacific slope above California.

The first French colony was founded in Biloxi in 1G90. by Iberville, a Can-
adian of French extraction, who with his brother, Bienville, was the n'ext to
enter the Mississippi River. They ascended the river as far as the mouth of
Red River, and then sepaxated. Iberville passed through Bayov. Manchac, and
discovered several lak-eu, one of which he called Lake Pontchartrain, in honor
of Count Pontchartrain. a Minister of France, the other Lake Maurepas, after
another Minister, and the third. I^ake Bo^'gne, which he called for a French
word meaning "one-eyed," as he found that it was not a complete lake. He
jiassed from Lake Pontchartrain into a beautiful bay which he called "Bay St.
Louis," after Louis IX. who was such an excellent King that he was can-
in. iiized as "Saint I>ouis." Continuing his route Iberville passed into Biloxi Bay,
and finding the Indian village of Biloxi at this spot, he made a settlem-ent
there.

Meanwhile, Bienville continued down the Mis.sissippi River to the mouth
where the French fleet was moored. Before reaching the mouth he met an
English vessel, under command of Captain Bar. The Captain told him that he
was examining the banks of the river in order to select a good site for an
English colony. Bienville told him that the French had already taken posses-
sion of the country and made it a dependency of Canada. Captain Bar then
turned back and sailed into the ocean. The point was called by Bienville "Le
I 'tiour Anglais." or the English Turn. All these original names still remain.
Bienville then joined Iberville at Biloxi, and found him on the point of leaving
for France. He had appointed his brother Sauvolle Goveinor of the colony of
L( uisiaua.

Among the arrivals in the French colony at this time were twenty young
girls who were sent by the King of France to be married to the colonists. The
Bishop of Quebec was charged with selecting good and pious yoimg women for
this purpose, and as a proof of her respectability each young woman was pro-
vided by tlie Bishop with a curiously wrought casket. Fond of giving nick-
names, these twenty were called by the Creoles "The Casket Girls." In 1706
the.se girls, becoming indignant at being fed on corn bread, held the first public
meeting of women on the American Continent. They threatened that if things
were not better they would return home at the first opportunity. In a few days
tli'-y quieted down and remained loyal and faithful wives. The uprising is
hiughingly called "The Petticoat Insurrection."

Sauvolle was killed by the Indians shortly after Iberville's departure, and
Bienville became Governor of the Colony. He is known as the "L'ather of
Louisiana History."

Noting the inaccessibility from the sea of the Biloxi settlement, and dreaming
of a great port near the mouth of the Mississippi River, in 171S Bienville de-
termined to select a more suitable site for the capital of the colony. Taking
with him fifty picked men he came upon the site of the old deserted Indian
Tillage "Tchoutchouma." which was located 110 miles from the mouth of the
river. Here he decided to build his city. He called it New Orleans, after
the Due d' Orleans, who afterwards became Louis XVI of France. Owing to
opposition from the Company of the West, to whom Louis XIV had granted
a charter, Bienville did not remove the colony to the new capital till 1723. It
was then that the real history of the city began. That same year New Orleans

was visited by a terrible hurricane that lasted three daj-s. It destroyed many
houses, the church and hospital and the shipping in the harbor. The crops were
utterly ruined. Many of the settlers were so discouraged they determined to
leave New Orleans, but Bienville pensuaded them to remain and rebuild the
city. In 1727 the first boys' school in Louisiana was established. That same
year the Jesuit Fathers and the Ursuline nuns, on invitation from Bienville,
came to labor in the colony.

In 1743 the romantic history of New Orleans began, under the administra-
tion of the Marquis de Vaudreuil, a nobleman and high-toned gentleman, who
established a miniature court called ' ' p Petit Versailles," or the "Little Ver-
sailles." He introduced court balls and state dinnei's. costume de rigueur ani
polite speeches. Many titled noblemen and French officers also came over wHh
their families and settled in the colony. Marquis de Vaudreuil is called ia
Louisiana history "Le Grand Marquis." His administration was the begiu-
ning of that aristocratic coterie which a century later made New Orleans fa-
mous in the cities of the Union. In 1757 Louisiana was ceded by France to
Spain. The colonists bitterly resented the cession, and sent the Spanish Gov-
ernor back to his country. Then the most influential citizens rose in revolution
against Spain and declared the independence of the colony. This was the fn-^t
declaration of independence on American soil. The leader of the revolution was
a planter named Lafreniere.

Spain sent a fleet and three thousand picked men to punish the conspir-
ators. Jjafreniere and his compatriots were sentenced to be hanged. The public
hangm«n cut oft" his arm rather than fulfill his duty, and not a man in the
colony cov.ld be found willing to act as hangmen. Finally, Lafreniere and his
associates were shot in the Place d' Armes, now Jackson Square. The other
conspirators were sent to confinement in Moro Castle, Havana, and New Or-
leans was made a dependency of the Island of Cuba.

Uon Luis Unzaga, the next Spanish Governor, completely won the colonists.
He married a Creole lady and the officers of his court and army also married
Creoles. Finally the reconciliation and amalgamation of the races became
complete, and both worked in harmony for the upbuilding of the city. In 17S8
the city was visited by another disastrous fire, which destroyed the Cathedral,
Charity Hospital, and almost the entire residence section. New Orleans was iaii
bare. From the ashes of the. old, irregularly-built French city arose the stately
Spanish city — old New Orleans practically unchanged as we see it to-day.

In 1791 the insurrection of slaves against their masters in San Domingo
brought to New Orleans many titled and wealthy refugees. They introduced a
wealth and luxury unknown before in the colony. In 1794 the most important
agricultural event in Uie history of Louisiana occurred Avhen Etienne de Bor6
succeeded in making the first sugar crop in Louisiana. The cultivation of tbe
cane was introduced by the Jesuits in 1751, but up to 1792 no planter had ever
succeeded in making the syrup granulate. The cultivation of cane has con-
tributed moro to the prosperity of Louisiana than any of her other products.
Many titled visitors came to New Orleans about this time; among others Due
d' Orleans, vho afterward became Louis Philippe of France, and his brother,
the Due de Montpensier and the Count de Beaujolais came in 1798. Tkey
were magnif cently received and royal entertainments were given in their honor.
When he became King of France Louis Philippe remembered by beautiful pres-
ents many of the families who had treated him so kindly when he was in exile.

In 1793 the Episcopal See of New Orleans was founded.

In 1803, by the treaty of Ildefonse, New Orleans was ceded back to France.
Only for a few weeks did the French flag wave. Following quickly came the
news that France had sold Louisiana to the United States. The American Gov-
ernment took possession Dec. 23, 1803. The people bitterly resented being
"sold like a lot of cattle." and appealed to France. But Napoleon was to9
busy changing the map of Europe. As our historian says, "Louisiana was a
gift never intended for Kings to keep." April 30, 1812, Louisiana was nd-
mitted into the Union as a State. January 8, 1815, General Andrew Jackson
and his band of Creole and American soldiery won the famous victory over tlie
British on the Plains of Chalmette. This great conflict is called the "Battle of
New Orleans." With the American domination a marvelous period of pros-
perity began. Ancient walls were demolished, forts torn down and the city
spread away up and out beyond her ancient limits. Differences growing out >>f

trade arose between the Crcr It s and Americans, and the latter built the Ameri-
can city above Canal street. The greatest rivalry prevailed. At one time there
were three distinct municipalities, all united under one mayor. But a& time
passed on, Crts-vkis ami Americans, seeing the necessity of union, laid aside their
differences and were reunited under one government.

In ISGl. along with her sister St.ites. Louisiana seceded from the Union.

In 18G2 the Federal fleet, under Admiral Fnnagut, succeeded in forcing
the passage of Forts .Jackson and St. Philip. Appearing before New Orlean.s
the city surrendered en April 25. Cener-M F.utler came with his troops
April 30, and martial law was declared. This co:iditioi) cf affairs remained to

the close of the memorable struggle. New Orleans suffered severely during the
wti:- and still more so from tiie misgovernment of carpet-baggers during the so-
c:;iltd days of reconstrui'tii>ii. Her conuuere-e was virtually destroyed and lor
many years after the war business seemed at a standstill. The revival in trade
began less than twenty years ago, and has been astonishingly rapid. Every
jear finds New Orleans further advanced in its career of prosperity. To-day
Louisiana exists among her sister States as free as the freest of them all. She
is ill the Union, of the Union, for the Union.

CHAPTER III

How to see New Orleans — Street Numbers and
Names— Distances.

Nevr Orleans, in its social customs and aspects differs radically from all
other cities of the Union. Indeed, we have here two cities, the one lying below
Canal Street, called the "French Quarter," or "down-town section," the other
lying above Canal Street, called the "American Quarter," or "up-town section."

The American section is best seen from the street cars; to properly see the
French Quarter the tourist must make up his mind to walk. It is practically
impossible while "doing the French Quarter," to lose one's way in New Or-
leans despite the winding streets and queer little alleys that appear so une.x-
liectedly at a fresh turn of the main thoroughfare. Every cross street leads to
the river, every other street eventually leads to Canal Street, which is the cen-
tral thoroughfare of New Orleans.

In Canal Street cars may be taken to any part of the city, and
one has only to remain long enough in any car to find himself again in the
heart of New Orleans within walking distance of any of the hotels. New Or-
leans has 173.2 miles of Street Railway; this includes the Spanish Fort Line,
which is a steam road, but is classed as a street railway. All these lines con-
verge to Canal Street, running across or from and back to that thorough-
fare. The cars are marked conspicuously, so that there need be no mistake.
A full list of the car lines and the streets they traverse will be found in the
ch.-M^ter devoted to "Car Routes and Ferries and Railroads," in the rear of this
Guide.

Street Numbers.

Throughout New Orleans the streets are numbered on the decimal system.
The numbers begin at Canal Street and run up or down as the case may be on
the streets running parallel with the river. The cross streets are numbered from
the river. There are supposed to be 100 numbers in each block, so that at
every intersection a fresh hundred is begun. In this Avay the visitor will know
that if a house is situated at No. 1100 — Street, that it is eleven squares front
Canal Street, or from the river. By consulting the Picayune's Street Guide,
also to be found in the rear of this book, it can easily be foimd if a street runs
up and down, parallel with the river, or from the river, across the town and
parallel with Canal Street.

In the streets running parallel with the river, the even numbers are on the
river side of tlie street, and the odd numbers on the lake side. In the street.**
nmning across the town parallel with Canal Street the even numbers are on
the left hand side going from the river and the odd numbers are on the right
hand side. Street names are posted conspicuously on every corner.

It often puzzles tiie visitor to hear the names of "Jeffer.son City," "La-
fayette," "Carrollton." "Algiers, etc. In former days the city was surrounded
by a number of small towns and villages, each with a distinct municipal govern-
ment. Jefferson City and Lafayette were then quite populous little corporations,

the limits of ■rIucIi correspond roughly to those of the present Fourth and Sixth
Districts. All the city above Upperline Street was then the municipality of
Carrollton, -sxliile intervening betvreen Lafayette were the little towns of "Grotn-
yille," "Bouligny," and "Napoleonville." The uninhabited spaces which sep-
arated these towns from one another, Avere gradually built up, and then the
towns were absorbed by New Orleans, of which they now form an integral
part. Algiers lies across the river and is now the Fifth District. There are still
a number of suburbs not yet annexed, although immediately adjacent to the
city. Of these McDonoghville. Mechanicsville. and Gretna, lie on the south-
eastern bank of the river, above Algiers. "Bucktown" is a negro settlement at
West End.

The curious circumstances that attended the growth of the city and her
historic, religious, artistic and material development are suggested at every
turn by

The Names of the Streets.

New Orleans has in fact the most picturesquely named streets of any city
in the Union, and there are character and thought in all. For instance, all
through the old French Quarter the .streets suggest the city's royal descent and
ancient faith and customs. We have Bourbon and Orleans, Dauphine and Bur-
gundy, St. Louis, St. Peter, St. Ann. Bayou Road, now a well paved street,
bespeaks the once fashionable drive of old New Orleans, and Rampart Strc-<'t,
in which there are no fortifications to-day. the city's ancient fortified line.
We have memories of Dukes and Princes galore, such as Chartres, Cond6, Du-
Maine — Marquises and Generals, as Casa Cah^o, Marigny. Moreau, Lafayott.?.
We now cross Canal Street on dry land, and find that Americnns pitched tents
in Union Street, within sight of the old Spanish Government "Magazine," tliat
gave to this street its name. Camp Street was once the "Campo de Negros,"
or Negro Camp, the space allotted to the free -negroes who came to New Or-
leans after the San Domingo revolution; and this land opened upon the
"Terre Commune," or "Common" ground. Indian herb doctors once lived in
Tchoupitoulas Street and sold the "millet seed," for which the street is named,
and which grew in abundance there. Further on we find the Nine Muses all in
a row, leading gracefully into Felicity Street. All the Generals of the Mexicna
War are drawn up in soldierly array, and Napoleon is commemorated not only
by the avenue which bears his name, but by a half dozen streets, christened
after his most famous battles, such as Jena, Austerlitz. etc. Calhoun, Henry
Clay and Webster march along side by side; Cato and Brutus confer in clf'se
proximity to Socrates, who looks with calm philosophy over at the passionate
Byron in the curious vicinity of Vienna and Dublin. Passing through the
"Vieux Carre," into the "Faubourg Marigny," Love leads you gently on into
Elysian Fields, while just beyond Science and Art clasp hands. Agriculture and
Industry yield Abundance and Independence, and Congress stands near rendy
to enact any Law necessary for the good of the Union, and to back it up by
Liberal Force. And what is there lacking in poetrj and romance when you are
told that a beautiful prima donna once lived in Music Street, that a French
King in exile occupied a mansion in Victory Street, that "Greatmen" passed '.n
review while bad boys played "Craps" and gave the name of the game to the
adjoining street; that the band of children trooping gaily on are going to play
on the campus in "Good Children Street," and that the sweet-faced, black-
veiled nun leading the little orphan by the hand dwells in an old convent in
Piety Street.

All through the city you will find that history, romance, religion, the times
hare been exhausted for characteristic sti-eet names. Every now and then a
petition is introduced into the City Council to change the names of the streets
to North, South, East, West and add the numerical distance of squares from
the river or from Canal Street, the dividing line of the city: it is represented
that such change in nomenclature would greatly facilitate the efforts of the
business community, as well as afford a better guide to strangers who are here
for commercial purposes. But these resolutions are invariably voted down in
accordance with public sentiment. What would West Fortv-lifth or East Twen-

ty-serenth Street mean to us iu comparison with these old na-mes that express
the life, the growth, the thought of the city from its foundation to the present.
And so there has been comparatively little change in the names of any streets
since they first received their titles. This fact has been made the subject of
many pleasant magazine articles.

The terms "Vieux Carre," "Faubourg Ste. Marie," "Faubourg Marigny,"
are often used throughout this Guide. It may be said

The "Vieux Carre,"

or "old square," is that interesting section of the French Quarter that was laid
out by Bienville when he came from Biloxi to build his city in 1718. The
cleared space had a frontage of twelve squares, and comprised all the land that

OLD YII^:W IX CHAH rHl-:S SrKlCICT

VIKUX CAKKi:.

lay between Esplanade Street on the north. Canal Street on the south, the
Levee on the east and Rampart Street on the west. The names of the streets
running parallel with the river were Levee, Chartres above the Cathedral,
Conde below it; Royal. Bourbon, Dauphine, Burgundy, Rampart, so-called be-
cause being the city limit on the west, ramparts were erected all along the line.
Crossing these streets from the river, were Bienville, Conti, St. Louis, Toulouse.
St. Peter, Orleans. St. Anno. Dumaine and St. Philip. Later, when the Ursuline
Nuns came over, the old street on which was their property received the name
of frsuline, from their convent in Chartres Street. The "Barracks," or sol-
diers' quarters, were located two squares from the convent, hence the nan.e,
"Barracks Street," or "Quartier." Intervening was the Military Hospit.il.
which gave to the street directly below L'rsuline the name "Hospital." "T1.6

Esplanndc" was located in the beautiful street that runs Lelow Barracks, from
tlie river to the woods. The names of these original streets have remained un-
changed through all these years. They are dear U< iho i eoide. because they are
the living reminders of a beautiiul historic past.

The "Faubourg Ste. Harie"

lies on the upper side of Canal Street. It was the first distinct "American"
section of New Orleans, and extended from the "Terre Commune" or Govern-
ment Reservation (now Common Street! outside the walls of the ancient city
to the line marked by Delord Street. It was o-.vned by a Avealthy planter
named Jean Gravier, and was hrst called the "Ville Gravier." After the ces-
sion of Louisiana to the United States and the Americans came pouring into
the city from the West, there was a contest for mastery between the Creoles
with their elegant manners and luxurious homes, and the hardy, thrifty band of
invaders. Finally, there grew so much .iealou.sy .and distrust that- the Governor
and State officials began to feel the ditficulties of their position, and trouble
seemed imminent. At this juncture the coolness of the American (Tovernor axid
the foremost American citizens prevailed. TJue AjUQri.Ga.ns decided to have a
city of their own, beyond the ancient French limits. Gravier was willing to
divide his land into lots and streets, and found a ready sale among the dis-
eiiiitented Americans. Gravier changed the name of the section to the ''I'au-
liourg Ste. Marie," in honor of his mother, whose name was Mary. This was
the beginning of the beautiful American city that lies above Canal Street, and
nvliich now stretches to the verge of Southport.

The ''Faubourg Marigny"

was the ancient plantation of Philippe Mandeville do Marigny. a provincial
magnate, who entertained Louis I'hilippe and his brotheis when they weri-
^■xilcs in New Orleans. The Faubourg extended from Esplanade Street to St.
Ferdinand and from the river to St. Claivde Street, ^^'hen Marigny decided to
bulla his own city, that should outrival either the ""Vieux Carre" cr the ''Fan-
Lourg Ste. Marie," he cut up the plantation into lots and streets. A portion be-
came one of the most fashionable residence centres of old New Orleans. But
the tide of progress flowed upward, and the dreams of Marigny were never real-
ized.

Algiers.

Algiers was known in early Creole day* as tl)i> "piantnfinnc of fliP Kincr "
This was the name given by Bienville. In time swarms of negro slaves
alone inhabited it. They were constantly at work and all day their quaint negro
Uailads could be heard. The Creoles showing their propensity lor giving nick-
names, rechristened the "King's Plantation" "Algiers," and the name clings to
I his day. It is now the Fifth District of New Orleans, and has a large popu-
Jatiou of thrifty white people.

riunicipal Boundaries.

The city exercises jurisdiction over the whole Parish of Orleans, an area of
1ST square miles. The populated section embraces about 50 square miles. The
city slopes gradually from the river to Lake Pontchartrain, which is in the-
rear. The levee system has been perfected to a degree that excites the wonder
find admiration of strangers. New Orleans is surrounded on all sides by huge
walls of earth called Levees, the height of which along the river front averages
from twenty to twenty-five feet. With these preliminary details so necessary
to the stranger who would see and understand New Orleans, the Picayune leads
the tourist into the old French Quarter.

VIEW OP OLD COURT — "FArBOURG VARIGKY" (2712 ROYAl).

CHAPTER IV,

The "French Quarter," or the Dow n=town Section
of New Orleans.

The most picturesque and interesting part of the city is tliat termed coilo-
quiilly the "Freiich Quarter." Here every square lias its story of
realistic or legendary lore. The tall, brick buildings looking dreamily over the
narrow streets teem with facts of historic or romantic interest. Down the dim
ages come the stories of the high-bred dames and gallant knights, who laughed
and sang and danced and loved while the "fleur-de-lis" of Lrance floated from
the flagstaff in the old Place d'Armes. Then comes the stately echo of the
Spanish domination, the days of the grand seuors and high-born ladies of Spain;
the days of the influx of French and Spanish nulilesse. and the gradual amalga-
mation of the two races into that peculiar type of American civilization, the
Creoles of Louisiana.

ANCIKXT SPANISH KOV/, KUK DUMAINIO — MMIO. JOHN S HOUSl':

Amid the echoes of the music and the dance and the first notes of the
drama that marked the complete reconciliation, we hear the sound of the axe
and the saw, the anvil and the hammer, and the rumble of bricks and mortar
all over the Faubourg, and there stands out the "Vieux Carre," or the old
"French Quarter," practically unchanged, as we see it to-day.

This is the city of Gayarre and I.afcadio Hearn, the city around which Cable
wove his wonderful romances. Their genius has made the Quarter famous
wherever the name of New Orleans is known.

Poetry and romgnce, beautiful traditions and legends have com-
bined to cast an air of imreality over the history of this old section, but truth
is stranger than fiction and the legends associated with points of interest in the
old "'Carre," as indicated in this Guide, have been verified by careful historians.

In order to see the French Quarter at its best, and breathing in these latter
days all the quaint poetry and foreign atmosphere of early days in New Or-
leans, the tourist must make up his mind to rise early and loiter lazily through
the quaint Faubourg, for he will want to stop at every parrot call, at every

"cl.iug of wooden shooii," at every note of a gay bacarole floating down from
the dormer windows set in the queer tile roof; he will want to peep into the
qnaint old Spanish courtyai'ds. fresh and fair and cool, with sunny marble-
flagged pavements and palms and olives and magnolias growing within; to stop
a moment to listen to the soft musical French of the passers-by, to catch a
glimpse of the fair Creole girls as they stand in the fragrant old-fashioned gar-
dons, wafting a kiss on a rose to "mamma," sitting on the jalousied veranda
or at the jasmine-twined window above; or see them as they pass demurely
out of the grim buildings, prayer-book and rosary in hand, on the way to early
mass in the old Cathedral.

It is in the morning that the dreamy beauty of this old city dawns upon
you. and you see in the dull gray belfries and tall steeples and gilded crosses of
her sanctuaries, the roses climbing over the beautiful wrought iron work of the
old verandas, and the lovely women you meet, with their sweet foreign ways,
the things that have given thought and inspiration to poets and romancers of
old New Orleans.

OLD ABSINTIIK HOUSK.

All through this old Latin Quarter the houses retain many of the char-
acteristics of the Fx-ench and Spanish dominations, and all along the narrow,
ill-paved streets will be heard a Babel of tongues and there will be seen convents
and chapels and cemeteries, mostly of the Catholic faith. These appeal to the
imagination with extraordinary charm; each has its history, its tradition, its lin-
g^n-ing memory of other days.

In early Creole days, Royal Street was the main street of the city. The
fashionable section was in the vicinity of Jackson Square. Bearing in mind this
fact, the tourists will do well to begin his explorations in

Royal Street,

diverging every now and then, as this Guide will indicate, a square or so to
right or left, to view some interesting landmarks just within the radius then
rei.-eivlng attention.

As you walk aloug do uot fail to note the han(l--\vrouglit balconies of iron
work, the beautiful courtyards, the tunnel-like entrances to houses enriched
with arched muUioned windows, and the spiked galleries that project over the
sidewalks.

At the corner of Royal and Iberville Streets is a large building, orna-
mented with handsome granite columns. It was erected for bank purposes,
and was occupied for many years by the Citizens' Bank.

In the Ticinity of Royal and Iberville. in the .same square as the old
hank building, stood formerly the Merchants' Excliange. where the United
States Court held its sessions previous to the building of the Custom-House.

TYPE Ol'^ COURTYAKD — FRENCH OUAKTEK.

The old postofflce was in the centre of the square bounded by Exchange Alloy,.
Customhouse, now Iberville, Royal and Canal Streets.

Just around the corner from Iberville, in a building the precise loca-
tion of which is not known, Lopez organized an expedition against Cuba, the
disastrous result of Avhich aroused a great deal of public attention in 1851.

The square on the river side, between Ibei villa and Bienville, was
once the site of Bienville's country house.'

In the vicinity of Bienville Street will be found a number of quaint auction
marts, where the wares chietly sold are old furniture, antiquated bric-a-brac, and
dingy family relics of various kinds. It is amusing. inde<^d. to look through these
places, where many curious things will be found. >Jew Orleans has been for

years a favorite staiupiug ground for the relic liuutcr, aud scores of valuabit-
finds have awarded his search. The prizes are all gone now.

At the corner of Bienville Street diverge one square toward the lake and
see the old Absinthe House. It dates from the year 1798, and has been doing
business since 1826.

Returning to Royal Street, at 403, was housed the first Bank ever organ-
ized in the Mississippi Valley. The three corners of Royal and Conti Street*
were formerly occupied by banks — the Bank of Louisiana, the Louisiana Stat©
Bank and the United States Bank. They have long since removed, although
one of the buildings is now a branch depositary of the State National Bank.

The large building on the upper, river corner of Cont^i is the Mortgage-
Office. Admission is unrestricted. It is a curious sight to see the interior filled
wiiu desks, upon which repose hundreds of huge folios containing the real
estate records.

In the middle of the block, between Conti and St. Louis, at 417 Roya\
Paul Morphy, the celebrated chess player, once made his residence. He died

FRENCH OrKKA HOU.SE, BOURBON Si.w-^^ .

in his bathroom, on the second floor. The building may be recognized by the>
beautifully worked iron balcony, and by the circular lunettes piercing the'wai:,
just under the eaves. The ground floor is now occupied by a plumbing estab-
lisi^ment. One of the most picturesque courtyards in New Orleans is in thfe
rear.

During- the year 190.3, some of the most historic building-s in New Or-
leans were demolished in the square bounded byRo3'al, Chartres, Conti and
St. Louis Streets, to make way for the erection of the new Court House which
will be situated in this square. The most interesting- of the building-s de-
stroyed was that in which Gen. Jackson made his headquarters in 181.'. and
from which point he directed his preparations for meeting the Eng-lish army
under Packenham. For many years, till the period of its demolition, the
building: was the residence of the distinguished Southern writer, Mrs.
Mollie E. Moore Davis. Mrs. Davis now resides at Xo. 505 Royal Street.

At the corner of Toulouse diverge one square toward the lake.'and at the
comer of Bourbon and Toulouse see the

French Opera House.

This immense structure was built in 3800 from n design by the noted local
architect, Gallier. It seats about 2,800 persons. I'liere are four tiers, each of
■which retains its peculiar name. For instance, the dress circle is called "les
<loges;" the balcony, "les secondes;" while the gallery is popularly known as "le
paradis." The boxes on the parquet floor are termed "baignoires grillSen."
There is a handsome "foyer," capable of holding 1,000 persons, on the second
Hoor.

The central part is the theatre proper, or "la salle," as it is technically
termed. There are SDiall courtyards on either side, and on the outside, wings
occupied by dressing-rooms and administration offices. The office of the "comp-
tiolleur" is at the foot of the double staircase.

The origin of the opera in New Orleans is exceedingly curious and inter-
esting. Between 1808 and 1811 there were two French theatres in successful
operation, one in St. Peter Street and one in Royal Street. At the latter period
•John Davis, a French emigrant from San Domingo, built the Orleans Theatre,
on the square behind the St. Louis Cathedral. In 1813 Davis engaged in Paris,
the first French Opera Company ever brought to this country, and many of the
great classics of the operatic stage were produced for the first time in America
in New Orleans. On the death of Davis his son assumed management of the
opera, and most ably conducted it for twenty-two years. Under his manage-
3nent Fanny Elssler and Damoreau were brought to New Orleans.

In 1859 Charles Boudousquie formed a stock company, by whom the pres-
■ent splendid building was erected. During the Civil War the opera was sus-
pended. It was revived in 1868. From 1871 to 1872 Placide Canonge, a dis-
tinguished Creole journalist and playright, obtained a lease of the opera bouse
and re-established the ancient brilliant traditions of this temple of the lyric art.
The opera has continued almost uninterruptedly ever since. The enterprise
is under the auspices of the French Opera House Association, composed of
leading capitalists.

It is impossible to review in this space, even briefly, the history of the French
Opera House. Here Adelina Patti made her debut in "Le Pardon de Ploermel."
Here, too, were heard the dying notes of another great Italian artist, Mme. Frea-
xolina. Etelka Gerster sang here; so did Fursch-Madi, Devoyod, Dumestre, Dela-
hranche, Ambre, Picot, Michot and Orlins. The house contains many curiosities,
including magnificent collections of music in MSS., and scenery, among others
the original sets for "Aida," as produced in Egypt before the Empress Eugenie.

New Orleans is the only city in America which has maintained uniformly
an operatic troupe. The great carnival balls take place in this building.

Returning to Royal Street, the next point of interest is the

Old St. Louis Hotel.

It stands in the heart of the French Quarter. The original building, erected
in 1835, at a cost of $1,500,000, was completely destroyed by fire in 1841, but
another palace was immediately erected on the same site, and soon reached a
meridian of splendor almost unparalleled in the history of the United States.
Thi building still stands a monument to the elegance, wealth and prosperity of
those days. The hotel was the resort of the wealthiest planters and largest
slave-holders in the South. The lower rotunda was frequently used by the negro
^lave traders as an auction mart. The names of the auctioneers may still be
^eeu carved in the walls. The place is in rather a dilapidated condition just now
(.January, 1903), but it has recently been purchased by a strong corporation, at
the head of which is Mr. J. A. Mercier, and it will be thoroughly renovated.
Tourists should not fail to see the beautiful aomed banqueting hall nor the
famous old ballroom, in which were inaugurated the grand subscription balls of
ante-bellum days. The frescoing in the hall was done by a nephew and pupil of
the sreat Canova. In this hall Henry Clay delivered the only speech he made In
Louisiana, famous "bal travesti," the most magnificent entertainment, it is
said, that ever occurred in New Orleans, was given in honor of Henry Clay'.s
visit, and the supper served cost $20,000. General Boulanger and the Prince of
Brazil, grandson of Dom Pedro, were entertained maggnificently here, and a few
::'ears ago the late President McKinley sat down to a supper there after an even-

iiitj's arduous campaicriiing. Tin- hotel has seen many .siugular vicissitudes. It has
been a statehouse and a besieged fortress. In reconstruction days it was the
headquarters of the Radical Government. In 1874, when the people of New
Orleans rose against Packard and his oppressive administration, the Radicals
were confined to the hotel for several months, fighting taking place outside the
building. When the garrison capitulated the building was found in a terrible
state of ruin and desolation. Before the war entrance was had through the
stately portico in St. Louis Street, but now the entrance is in Royal Street.

Between St. Louis and Toulouse, at 517 Royal Street, is an archway flanked
by cannon embedded in the ground. Tiiis was the Commanderia, or headquar-
ters of the army during the Spanish domination.

In the vicinity will be found a number of curio and second-hand shops,
where the antiquarian and bibliophile have often picked up treasures. These
stalls are extremely inviting, reminding one, in the nature and value of their
possessions, of the book stores along the Seine in Paris. It is said that more
rare French and Spanish volumes are to be found at these places than any-
where else in the country.

At the corner of Royal and St. Peter Streets will be found a four-storied
•tructure of stuccoed brick. It was built in 1819, and was the first four-storied

ENTRANCE TO ST. LOUI.S HOTEL (ONCE HOTEL KOYAl),
.ST. LOUIS STREET.

bnilding ever erected in New Orleans. It figures in one of Cable's romanceg aa
" 'Sieur George's House." By this name it is almost universally known. It
is a handsome specimen of the old city residences of the great Louisiana
planters.

The next point of interest in Royal Street, is in the square betwe«n
Orleans Place, on the south side, and St. Anthony's Place on the north. Imme-
diately behind the pretty garden, so gracefully laid out in palms and ferns, and
magnolia trees, stands the historic

St. Louis Cathedral.

Turn into the dim Cathedral Alley, past the quaint brick buildings looking
down so silently over the entourage of vines and flowers, and enter through the
side door the famous old shrine, whose history may indeed be said to be the
history of New Orleans. The Cathedral occupies the site of the first church
ever erected in the great expanse known afterwa'-d as the "Louisiana Purchase."
This church was erected by Bienville when h^ kid out the city in 1718, and
earned St. Louis, after the patron saint of the then reigning monarch of France.

K
<

TTiis primitive Cluircli was destroyed by fire and a new church was erected in
5.721. This, too, was burnt to the ground in the memorable conflagration of
<Jood Friday, 17SS. As the entire city almost was consumed the disaster seemed
tO preclude the possibility of erecting a new church, when Don Andres Almon-
aster y Roxas. a wealthy Spanish nobleman, erected at his own expense this
■Cathedral Church at a cost of .•^'50,000, on condition that a mass would be said
in - perpetuity every Sunday for the repose of his soul. The design was the
iiaual Spanish style, with three round towers in front. In 1851 the building
was remodelled, and steeples were raised on the tow^ers. The present portico,
with its columns and pilasters, dates from that period. The beautiful frescoing
was done by the famous painter, Humbrecht. The large mural painting above
the high altar represents "King Louis of France proclaming the Ninth Cru-
sade." The statues which surmount the high altar are Faith, Hope and Charity.
To the left of the sanctuary is the archiepiscopal throne, surmounted by the
symbols of episcopal authorit.y, the miter and the crossed keys and crozier. On
the walls of the sanctuary appear manj' tablets inscribed to the memory of the
•d,«>ad Bishops and Archbishops of New Orleans, most of whom are buried in
the crypt beneath the grand altar. A reproduction of the famous grotto of
LouiHles forms one of the side altars; the water which trickles perpetually over
the rocks is supplied from the miraculous shrine at Lourdes. The side chapel
on the north side is dedicated to the Sacred Heart of .Jesus. Don Andres Al-
monaster sleeps beneath a large slab on which is inscribed in Spanish his many
deeds. Many quaint institutions maintain at the Cathedral, not the least
curious of which is the sexton or "Suisse." who attends with cocked hat, sword
and halbert all the services. Notable events in the history of New Orleans have
been linked with the Cathedral, most important perhaps of which was the
solemn high mass offered by Bishop Dubourg at the request of General Jack-
son after his famous victory on the plains of Chalmette. It was attended by
General Jackson and his army and a solemn *'Te Deum" of Thanksgiving was
sung. In 1S93 the centennial of the Cathedral was celebrated with great pomp
and ceremony, and in December. 190,3, were held in the Cathedral the reli-
g'ious services incident to the Louisiana Purchase Centennial celebration.

In the St. Louis Presbyter^', facing- the Cathedral Alle5% maj' be
seen curious old portraits, among- them the onlj- one in existence
■of Don Almonaster, Mgr. Penalver, the first Bishop of New Or-
leans, and Pi-re Antoine, whose memorj' is so linked with
early days in the French Quarter. His name was given to the pretty garden
fronting on Royal Street, with the Cathedral as a background. Fere Antoine
was a Spanish priest who came to New rleans toward the close of the
•eighteenth century and who worked many years at the Cathedral. He died be-
loved by all. His name is given to the beautiful little square in the r^ar of the
■Cathedral. For many years, too, his name was associated with a palm tree
that stood until recently in a woodyard at the corner of Bourbon and Orleans
Street. This yard formed part of the land on which Pere Antoine liyed. In-
niinipr.nhle rales were rojd of how this strange palm came to be there, not th#»
least romantic of which was that it sprang from tl^e heart of a young girl who
was buried in this spot, and who died dreaming of her native palm-befringed
«hore. At 025 St. Anthony Place are kept the ancient archives of the Cathedral.

Crossing into Orleans Street, is a large brick building, with handsome walls
-covered with brown stucco, A cross surmounts the roof. This is the Convent
of the Holy Family. In other days it was the famous

Quadroon Ballroom

of New Orleans. Adjoining is a three-story brick building, an orphanage con-
nected with the convent. It stands upon the identical spot on which stood the
old Orleans Theatre. No section of Ne-w Orleans is invested with more romance
than the square in which these buildings stand. As mentioned above, in the
building now the Convent of the Holy Family took place those "Quadroon balls,"
at one time celebrated throughout the world. No women were more beautiful
than the quadroon women of New Orleans, The slight negro taint was be-
trayed only in the soft olive skin and the deeply increased brilliancy of the eye.
while no one, not versed in the signs by which the Louisianian recognizes at one*

the person of mixed blood, coiiid distinguish in feature, hair or form any reseiD-
blance to the African type. ' -

It was Avliile the quadroon women were in tlie zenith of their unsavory
glory that there rose, clam and serene, like a star of promise for the colnreit
race, the Sisterhood of the Holy P^amily. It was founded by the Abbe lloui*-
seloD in 1835, with the hope of regulating a condition of affairs that saddciud
the hearts of the Archbishops of New Orleans. Among those who went to con-
fession to the old Abbe were three colored women who were slaves; one was a
quadroon, another a griffe, a third a mulatto, representing the various grade*
of evolution from the African proper. They were good, virtuous, pious. Chris-
tian women, reared in Christian households by noble masters and mistresses.
They felt keenly the degradation of their race. The Abbe Rousselon knew this»

A COLOKED SLSTI:K OF THI-: HOLY I^VMILY.

and in his far-seeing wisdom knew. too. that religion alone could give tues»
Avomen the right conception of the duties imposed by God. He conceived a
great plan, and obtaining the freedom of the three slaves, he sent them to a
convent in Europe to be trained and educated. After .seven years they returned
to New Orleans and he founded the Sisterhood of the Holy Family. It was ft
struggling little community: it had the sympathy of the white ladies of New
Orleans and the vmfailing support of the Bishops and priests. The war came
and then the work of the Sisterhood began in earnest. They gathered in the
orphans and the aged and afflicted of their race, now freed and thrown upon the
world. The South liad been beggared: it was a race for subsistence every-
where. But all shared with the humble Sisteih.ood, for tlie men and womec t>J

Louisiana appreciated tlieir work. The old Orleans Theatre had long teena
burned do-nn; the ancient quadroon ballroom still remained. In 1881 this place-
was offered for sale. Before the day was out the Sisterhood had gathered in-
the means to purchase it. And here, in the very house whore folly once reigned.
and music sounded and graceful figures floated dreamily to and fro, the Sister*
hare erected their chapel, and above the doors are inscribed the words: "Silence^
my soul, God is here." The old ballroom, so long used as a chapel, but no^v as-
a community room for the sisters, is said to have the finest dancing floor m the-
world. It is made of cypress three feet iu thickness. Above the stairway the-
Sisters have placed the significant inscription: "I have chosen rather tc. be an
abject in the house of the Lord than to dwell iu the temple with sinners."'
Silence and prayer and work now reign in these halls, and no commuDity is^
more esteemed than the Sisterhood of the Holy Family, which has done more-
than any other body for the elevation and education of the colored race lEi
Louisiana.

Tui-ning again into the dreamy Rue Royale, just along the Cathedral lin«^
are the Catholic book stores for the sale of religious articles. The

Workers in Wax and Flowers

also have their abode along this section. On the approach of All Saints' Day,„
Nov. 1, the day set apart in New Orleans as sacred to the dead, the windows^
in Royal Street are aglow with wonderful beaded wreatlis and flowers, wax and.
paper flowers, enriched with various mottoes: "A Mon Pere," "A Ma Mere,"*
"A Une Epouse Cherie," as the sacred thread of memory runs. Very quietlr
all the year round the floAvermakers sit at work in the rear of these ancient
stores so that at All Saints' time they may rival one another in the beauty, the.
yariety and the skill of their productions."

The Cafe des Exiles," made famous by Cable, stood at the corner of Royal
and St. Ann Streets. On Duma ine, between Royal and Bourbon Streets, is el.
low-browed frame house, with dormer windows and a long verandia supported
by a brick pavement. This is the house bequeathed by M. John, of the "Good'
Children's Social Club." to "Zalli and 'Tite Poulette," as veraciously set forth.
in Cable's story of " 'Tite Poulette."

At 1122 Royal Street are quaint courtyards surrounded by old Spanisk
portals. They are all that remains of the c'd Spanish Barracks. The place is-
now used as a seltzer water factory.

Just aroimd the corner from Royal Street, at 817 St. Philip Street, is the-
Convent of the Missionary Sisters of the Sacred Heart. They are devoted to
the work of elevating to the dignity of true citizenship the swarm of Italian and
Sicilian emigrants which pours into New Orleans. The Sisterhood came to New-
Orleans shortly after the lynching of eleven Italian prisoners in the old Parish.
Prison of New Orleans, twelve years ago. The deadly work of the Mafia had
been gaining ground day by day; scarcely a month passed without chronicling-
some terrible secret murder, directly traceable to this society. At length the-
members became so bold as to defy justice and secretly shot down the Chief of
Police of the city while engaged in the discharge of his duties. The murderer:^,
strange to say, were six of them acquitted and a mistrial entered as to the
other three, but the citizens rose in arms and slew the prisoners in the-
Parish Prison. The Sisterhood is doing a noble work in instructing these-
emigrants and their children in their duties to God, their neighbor^
and country. They have the cordial support of the citizens, and manj-
laSies of the finest families have joined their order. The courtyard and garden
of the convent are very quaint, and the institution itself well repays a visit.

A half square further on, at the corner of St. Philip and Bourbon Streets^
once stood the famous smithy of the Lafitte brothers, the

** Daring Pirates of Barataria,"

whose romantic history and bravery form one of the most interesting chapters.
of the life of old New Orleans. Here these polished gentlemen, under the guise
of blacksmiths, smuggled goods into New Orleans and established such
an enormous trade that the United States Government .stepped in and sought
to apprehend them. But it was all of no avail. The old Creoles, smarting

tinder the unjust mercantile laws of Spanish colonial days, had learned to love
the Lafitte brothers, who brought such beautiful and expensive wares to New
Orleans and sold them so cheap. They sought to shield them from arrest. As
•soon as the United States revenue cutter was spied in the distance coming up
the river, the brothers were notified. At once the great piles r.f ^smuggled goods
were bidden away, usually in the fastnesses of the woods of Barataria Bay;
the smitiiy wiis in full blast, and Jean and Pierre Lafitte the busiest and most
industrious of workers. At last they were forced to take up their residence in
Barataria Bay altogether, for the United States made it very hot for them in'
New Orleans. At this time the war with Great Britain broke out. Lafitte was
cffered a large sum by the British if he would allow them to land at the
pirate's trysting place in the Barataria woods and steal quietly into New Or-
leans. The two brothers were also offered commissions as officers in the British
Army. But Lafitte was a brave patriot and a true Louisianian, despite his
piratical inclinations. He scornfully rejected the British offer, told General
Jackson of the approach of the enemy, placed all the documents in his hands,
and then, advancing to the defense of New Orleans, he himself organized his
spirates into a regiment for the defense of the city. No braver service was ren-
dered on the day of the great battle of New Orleans than that of Lafitte's
Regiment. In consideration of his services the United States, upon the recom-
mendation of General Jackson, granted the brothers and their men full and
free pardon for past offenses on condition that they would give up smuggling
and lead the lives of respectable American citizens. The offer was accepted and
Lafitte was welcomed into the best society in New Orleans. The stories told
of the Barataria pirates would fill a volume.

The headquarters of the Italian organ grinders are a half square further on
in St. Philip Street. These people live in an old and dilapidated tenement build-
ing opening upon a great yard. They spend the day eating macaroni and sing-
ing songs, and at evening emerge in numbers, with their hand organs on their
backs, and go from corner to corner of the old Faubourg, playing their tunes,
to the delight of the little children, who dance to the music and to the dismay
of the older folks, who like not the twanging instruments.

At 1140 Royal Street, corner of Hospital, stands a fine old house which
4ias a story as strange and terrible as any German castle. This is the famous

"Haunted House,"

■which every visitor to New Orleans wishes to see, and whose singular history
caused Cable to embody it in his "Strange True Stories of Louisiana." Here,
in 1831, lived Mme. Lalaurie, who moved in the most wealthy and aristocratic
Creole circles of her time. She was beautiful, educated, accomplished; she
was a member of one of the most ancient and honored families of Louisiana.
She inherited numerous slaves, whom she treated with the most abominable
cruelty, starving and torturing them to death, vmtil, her barbarities becoming
known to the public, she was compelled to flee for her life. The indignant
populace rose in its wrath, wrecked the house, threw the most costly mirrors
and cabinets fx-om the windows, and smasjied them into atoms on the banquette
lielow. The imprisoned and half-starved slaves, many of whom were found
held in chains fastened to tne dungeon below, were released. Three old slaves,
tortured almost to death, were taken in a dying condition to the "Cabildo."
Human bones were found in the well and a curious old trap door, still to be
seen in the wall, is said to have been the avenue by which Mme. Lalaurie Jet
"down these slaves into gloom and darkness and death. Ever since the
I'.ouse is said to have been haunted. It is said that no tenant can occupy it for
«ny length of time. The Creoles tell the most wonderful stories of how at
times the ghosts of the murdered slaves hold high carnival in the old mansion.
The principal ghost haunting the house is said to be that of a little negro girl,
^•ho, being pursued by her mistress with a lash, fled up and up the winding
stairs to the belvidere and committed suicide by leaping from the roof into the
courtyard below. On dark and stormy nights it is said the little girl appears

Walking Round and Round the Belvidere,

her moans and sobs being heard above the storm, and on moonlight nights, when
the atmosphere is very rare, her wraith, fleeing from her infuriated mistress, is

•seen leaping with a wild slu-iek from tlie cupola to tlie flag-stoned courtyard be-
low. Many are the stories told of how Mnie. Lalaurie effected her escape on
that awful night away back in the thirties. Some say that after the mob had
wrecked the house she caused herself to be nailed in a coffin, gave out that she
liad died of fright and was taken out in a hearse to the Metairie Road, whence
she made her escape to France. But the true manner, learned by the writer
from an( eye-witness to the scenes, was that Mme. Lalaurie saw that a crisis
liad come and nothing but a bold effort would save her life. She dressed her-
self beautifully for her evening drive, ordered her coachman to drive her car-
riage to the main entrance of the house, and, smiling radiantly, she bowed like
a queen to the infuriated mob. Taken unaware, the crowd fell back, wondering

THK HAUNT KD HOUSE.

■what would happen next. This was the opportunity that Mme. Lalaurie had
calculated upon. She bowed again with her sweetest smile, stepped through
the crowd into her carriage, and ordeied her coachman to drive at breakneck
speed out the ancient fashionable route of Bayou Road. It had all happened in
the twinkling of an eye. The crowd recovered itself, realized that it was to be
cheated out of its victim and followed in close pursuit. It was a race for life,
and Mme. Lalaurie won. She reached the Half-way House a few moments
ahead of the crowd. A schooner stood in the bayou. She thrust a purse of gold
into the Captain's hand and he steered out toward the lake. Mme. Lalaurie
made her way to Covington, thence to Mobile, where she embarked for France.
She became noted in Paris for her many charities. She was killed in a boar hunt
in the forests of Versailles. For many years after her departure the house re*

maiaed closed. The people said the house was bauutcd and would show th»
well in the courtj'ard where Mme. Lalaurie buried her A'ictinis, the murder oi
whom had been perpetrated in the loft immediately beneath the roof.

Turninj,' from tliis eerie spot, just two squares bej'ond. is the Rue Esplanade^
and in the section bounded by Decatur, the Levee and Barracks Street, is the

United States Mint.

It occupies the site of the old Fort St. Charles. The building cost .?182,000,
The Mint is capable of turning out $5,000,000 per month. Admission to the
Mint is easily effected, and a polite official is alwayn ready to show the visitoi
through the various departments. In December, 1814, General Jackson stood
on the rampart of Fort St. Charles to review his army as it marched past or.
its way to meet the British at Chalmette. In 1862 Willliam Mumfold was hung
in front of the Mint, by order of General Benjamin F. Butler, for tearing down

THIC UNITKD .STAT^IvS MINT.

the United States flag from the roof of the building after the Union Army hae
taken possession of the city. For years after, a sad. gray-haired woman wan-
dered aimlessly about the Faubourg. "Hush!" the little children would say as.
she approached; "that is Mumford's mother." "No, she. is not," others would
answer; "she only thinks she is." And the old Creole grand dames would
take up the thread and say, in hushed voices: "Yes, children; she is Mum-
ford's mother."

The Old Slave Quarters,

where slaves were brought from all sections of the Southern States, but prin
cipally from Virginia and Maryl.ind. to be sold at auction in New Orleans, wcr*
located at the corners of Chartres and Esplanade Streets. The large brick
building, now one of the finest residences on the avenue, was erected on the
site of the long row of brick buildings which stood on the river side of Chartres
Street, from Esplanade to Peace Street. On the .side toward the woods, in tb*

same boundary, stood a long row of frame buildings (two-story), with iron bal»
conies reaching to the banquette, and a three-story kitchen with little pigeon-hole-
windows guarded in by iron bars. Both of these sides of Chartres Street wore
known as the slave quarters, and millions of dollars changed hand^ in this slave
trafHc.

Adjoining almost all the ancient homes in this section are two and three-
storied kitchens separated from the main house. These were the quarters used
by the family servants, or the slaves who were attached directly to the house-
hold departments.

On the corner of Elysian Fields and the levee, and visible from Chartres^
Street where it crosses Esplanade, is the "massive brick building, with a lofty
smokestack, used as a power-house by the Claiborne Street Rail-
road. The power-house occupies the site of the old Mande-
ville de Marigny residence. This was the residence of Philippe Mariguy,
who is buried before the altar in the St. Louisi Cathedral. Mari,^.7,
as mentioned in the historical chapter of this Guide, was a grand seigneur in
every sense, and when Louis Philippe was in America, before his accession ta
the French throne, he entertained the exiled Prince for some time in magnificent
fashion. Lafayette, Moreau and other celebrated personages were his guest*
at other times. All this portion of the city was, in those times, known as the
"Faubourg Marigny."

Many are the stories told of his magnificence and lavish use of money,
among others the common story that he used to light his cigar with $10 bills
and carelessly throw away the burning fragments.

CHAPTER V

Chartres Street— The French Market and
Vicinity.

Ha-^ing explored the old Rue Royal and caught a glimpse of the ancient
Faubourg Marigny, turn from the United States Mint into picturesque Chartres
Street, and return to Canal Street along this route.

Chartres Street was the great business thoroughfare of old New Orleans,
the street in which millions of dollars changed hands; it was in early days aa
great a promenade as the grand boulevard Canal is in our own.

Everything is old, very old, in Chartres Street, and the street itself seems
like a bit of old time frescoins. left to ruin and decav amid the busy progress of
another aee.

The grim houses and odd balconies appear to be in endless confab with
one another, but there is a hush as you approach, and they look stern and stolid
as though- defying your curious gaze. The inhabitants, however, are very kind;
they see at a glance that you are a stranger by your eyes, and they smile
graciously, Mhile with a pretty air of mingled reserve, they motion you to look
your fill.

Thus encouraged you may peer shyly into the tunnel-like entrances of old
paved courtyards, Avith arched porticos such as one may see in Venice under-
the shadow of St. Mark's or the old Palace of the Doges. In most of these court-
yards you will see plants in huge pots, geraniums, pomegranate trees and flow-
ering shrubs; sometimes you will catch a glimpse of a battered statue of bronze
or marble, or immense yellow earthenware jars that remind one of the "Forty
Thieves," or which are as big as that in which Ali Baba hid in the wonderful
ronirnce of the Arabian Nights.

Chartres Street opens from Canal Street four blocks from the river, but for
the purpose of this Guide follow the old street from Ursuline Avenue after you
have gotten a glimpse of the quaint life of the oyster and fruit dealers in the
vicinity of Esplanade and Barracks, and see the ancient Archbishopric, which is

The Oldest Building in Louisiana.

This liistbric edifice stands in the center of the square between Hospital
•and Ursulines Streets. Entrance may be had through a quaintly constructed
portal, defended by double gates, piercing the wall in the middle of (the
"Chartres Street front. The porter's lodge is within this portal. The buildings
face a spacious lawn. They were erected between 1727 and 1734 for the
use of the Ursuline nuns. The nuns resided here from 1734 to 1824. when
they removed to their present domicile, in the extreme lower part of the city.
The old building has seen various uses, not the least interesting of which is that
In 1831 it was the State Capitol, and the Legislature held its sessions within
its walls. The building was at that time leased by the State of Louisiana
from the Ursuline nuns. Shortly afterward, the lease having expired, the
Ursulines presented it to the then reigning Archbishop of New Orleans as

THJ^. ANCIICNT AKCHBISHOPKIC — FKONT VIICW.

■a place of residence fcr the archbishops of the diocese. It was so used
until 1899, when a new residence for the archbishops was purchased in
Esplanade Avenue. The historic old site in Chartres Street, however, is
still retained as the "Archbishopric," and is used for the transaction of all
the official business of the archdiocese. The Archbishop and the Chancellor
have their offices here, and it is the official place designated for all im-
portant ecclesiastical meetings. No one should leave New Orleans without
visiting this ancient building. It remains exactly as when first erected.
The visitor should remark the ancient staircase, the steps of which are single,
massive pieces of timber, deeply worn by the feet of many generations. The
chapel contains a little oratory and shrine. The reception room, on the
lower floor, is beautifuly paneled in cypress, add contains a curious old clock.
The shutters of cypress over the main entrance are over 3U0 years old
and are still perfectly sound. In the dining-room hang portraits of all the
Bishops and Archbishops who have presided over the See of New Orleans.
On the third floor of the building may still be seen tlie quaint little cells
used by the Ursuline nuns in 1734, the old-fashioned desk in the community
Toom, at v/hich the superioress sat and presid'^d when the nuns were assem-
'bleJ for meditation and prayer. In another room are the quaint, heavy

benches on wliich the shives sat as they were gathered together morning and
evening for instruction and prayer. In the building are preserved all the meet
ancient ai'chives which are a part of the history of Louisiana from the bi-
ginning. A beautiful old garden is in the rear of the convent.

Adjoining the Archbishopric is St. Mary's Church. It was the ancient
Ursuline Chapel, and is the oldest church in Louisiana.

At the corner of Hospital and Chartres Street, where a small grocery
now stands, was the ancient burying ground of the Ursuline nuns. From.
1727 to 1824 all the departed members of the community were buried in this
spot. When the convent was removed to the new quarters near the Bar*
racks, the remains of the nuns were disinterred and reburied in the present,
graveyard attached to the ancient convent. The remains of the slaves th,ey
owned, and who were buried in the spot on the corner of Chartres and Hos»
pital Streets, however, were not disturbed. It is interesting to note here that
the slaves owned by the Ursulines chose to remain with them rather than ac-
cept freedom after the emancipation of the black race, and that, some eight

REAR VIEW OF ANCIENT ARCHBISHOPRIC.

or nine j-ears ago, the devoted nuns buried the last of their slaves, a negress
a century old.

Bishop Dubourg. who occupied the episcopal chair of New Orleans in
1812, lived in a house belonging to the Ursulines, on a part of their Char-
tres Street property nearest the river. Its sjte is now occupied by Sam-
bola's macaroni factory. Bishop Dubourg used to spend his winters iu
New Orleans and his summei-s in the northern portion of his vast diocese,
which extended from the Gulf of Mexico to the great lakes, from the Mis-
sissippi River to the Pacific coast above California.

In the vicinity bounded by Ursuline, Chartres Street and the Levee are the
shops of the macaroni-makers and basket-weavers. At the corner of Ursuline
and Chartres pause a moment to look at the queer old tiled roof building, one
of the few that remain as specimens of Spanish colonial architecture previous
to the great fire of 1788.

On Chartres Street, between Dumaine and St. Philip stood the famous old
•Cafg des Emigres" or Emigrants' Cafe. It was the favorite headquarters ef
th« San Domingo refugees and their famous liquer "Le Petit Grouave," was con-
cocted here to perfection.

vValking slowly toward Canal Street, you pass the front of the old Cathe-
dra i and the famous

*'Cabildo,"

where the ancient Municipal Chapter of Spanish times met. The picturesque
structure stands at the corner of Chartres, between St. Peter and Orleans Alley.
Within its walls all but one of the transfers of the country from one govern-
ment to another were effected. Here, representing the King of France,
<Joyernor Aubrey absolved the colonists from their oath of allegiance
to France and handed them over to the swarthy delegate of His Cath-
olic Majesty of Spain. Here was effected the transfer back to
France, and here again the transfer of the country to the United States was
made, and from the balcony Claiborne announced the event and displayed the
American flag. In 1826 General Lafayette was received here, and in later days
President McKinley was formally welcomed to Louisiana just prior to hi»

THE CABILDO.

death. In December, 1903, the civil ceremonies connected with the
celebration of the Louisiana Purcha.se Centennial took place in the Ca-
bildo. At present the lower floor of the building is used as the Second Re-
corder's Court and police jail; on the second floor the Supreme Court of Lou-
isiana holds its sittings. The ancient "Spanish Calaboose," or jail, is in the
building. In one of the cells can be seen a pair of old-fashioned stocks, a relic
of the Spanish domination.

At No. 61.3 Orlean.s Place, is the ancient Spanish Arsenal, still used,
despite the dilapidated appearance of the building-, as the State Arsenal.

The massive building, a fac simile of the old "Cabildo," standing on the
lower side of the Cathedral, between St. Anthony's Alley and St. Ann Street,
is the lower court building. The Civil Court sits on the upper floor and the Civil
Sheriff has his office on the lower floor. It is a very ancient building, but not
as old as the Cabildo. It occupies the site of a former Capuchin monastery,
the monks of which were charged in early days with the care of the St. Louis
Cathedral. The gardens of their convent extended back several squares. P6re
Antoine resided here for many years, as did also the famous P6re Dagobert,
who is canonized among the sweet memories of old New Orleans. He ^as
called "the singing P6re," and it is said in old traditions that even now at
night, passing through St. Louis Cemetery, one can hear his sweet voice chant-
ing the grand "Te Deum" or caroling the sweet lullabies that Creole mothers

«ang to tlieii- oliildren. Tlic people are not afraid of Iiis gliost. Tlicy stop to
Jisten. and still a5,'ain the old tradition runs. "Blessed is he who hears Pfire
Jjagobert sinfjin;: the 'Te Deum' at the midnight hour."

The venerable Cathedral, Cabildo and Courthouse overlook

Jackson Square, or the old "Place d'Armes."

It is a noted spot in Louisiana history and was the place that Bienville marked
•out for the review of the French troops, hence the name, "Place d'Armes."
Here were held from the beginning all the most important public meetings in
Louisiana. Here Don Antonio Ulloa received the keys of the city and took
piissession of it in the name of the King of Spain; here met the resolute band
•of patriots under Lafreniere, and right here may be said to have been made the
lirst declaration of independence on American soil, for Lafreniere declared the
independence of the colony in 17G8 and sent the Spanish Governor back to his

THE JACKSON MONUMENT.

own country. Here a few days later the brave French patriots were shot as
traitors, and here Don Bernardo Galvez, one of the most heroic figures in
Louisiana history, appeared before a popular meeting of the citizens in 1779 and
•completely won their hearts. In the old square General Jackson, the hero of
New Orleans, was received in 1815, and passing through a bevy of beautiful
Creole girls, representing the different States of the Union, one of them, per-
sonating Louisiana, crowned him as her victor and hero.

When the monument was erected in the center of the square, taking the
place of the flagstaff from which had been unfurled successively the flags of
France, Spain and the United States, the name of the hero of Chalmette was
bestowed on the square by the grateful citizens. The Jackson monument, in
the middle of the square, was made by Clark Mills, at a cost of $30,000. The
firtist has been highly praised for the manner in which he succeeded in bal-
ancing such a mass of metal — 20,000 pounds — without any support or prop
\)eneathi In this position the statue has withstood the storms and hurricanes of
half a century. The incription on the granite base of the monument was cut
\)y General Butler's orders during the Civil War. It runs: "The Union must
and shall be preserved."

Jackson Square is one of the few remaining public places which are In-
closed. It is shut to the public at 9 o'clock at night. It has long been under
the management of a special Board of Commissioners, who have greatly beauti-
fied the parterres by planting them with tropical fruits and flowers. The foun-

tain near the Cliartres Street entrance is equipped with a mechuuism by which'
the jet may be illuminated at night.

The two long rows of quaint buildings, drawn up like twin regiments of red-
coated soldiers, on either side of the square, are the Pontalba Buildings, erected
in the early part of the century by the Baroness de Pontalba, daughter of Don
Andres Almonaster. They are still owned by her descendants. It was a great
mark of gentility in early days to reside in the Pontalba Buildings. The tide-
of fashion has. however, long since flown away. The long, narrow courtyards,
the grand old stairways, the curious transoms and brass knockers, whose click,
reverberates through the ancient halls, are woi'thy of notice.

And now you are in sight of the famous

You know it by the busy rush, the noisy rumbling of carts and wheels, the
ceaseless clatter of foreign and native tongues combined, the outlandish garbs,
the curious faces, the strange cosmopolitan scene to be nowhere else witnessed
on American soil. The market is open daily from 5 a. m. to 12 m. The "meat

JACKSON SQUARE — CATHEDKAL AXD CABILDO IN TKIC DISTANCE.

French Market.

market" was erected in 1813 at a cost of $30,000. and stands on the exact spot
where the first market was built in New Orleans, according to the plan of Le
Blond de La Tour, in 1723, and which was destroyed by a hurricane in that
same j-ear. The best time to visit it is in the early morning, and Sunday morn-
ing of all others. It is the most remarkable and characteristic spot in New
Orleans. Under its roof every language is spoken, and this will be noted
through its four divisions, the fish, the meat, the vegetable and the fruit mar-
ket. The buyers and sellers are men and women of all races. Here are the
famous coffee stands, where one gets such delicious "cafe noir" or "cafe au lalt,"
mth a "briOche" or "cala," as the taste may suggest. There are the Gascon
butchers, and the Italian and Spanish fruit vendors, and the German and Ital-
lian vegeta?ble women; there are Moors, with their strings of beads and crosses,
fresh from the Holy Land; peddlers and tinners and small notion dealers; the
"rabais men," with their little stores on wheels; Chinese and Hindu, Jew and
Teuton, French and Creole, Spanish and Malay, Irish and English, all uniting
in a ceaseless babel of tongues that is simply bewildering. The old Creole
negresses are there, with quaint bandana and tignon, offering for sale "pra-

Hues" and '-pain patates"' and "calas." the latter a species of soft donglmut
made of rice and flonr. Squatted about the ground between the markets are
stn.nge. lialf-civilized beings, with queer little papooses strapped to their backs
or rolled up in shawls and blankets.

You catch the odor of wild herbs and

OLD SPANISH TILED BUU.DIMC.

woodland leaves, and get a glimpse of the dried sassafras leaves from which the
famous "gumbo fil6" is made. These patient, dark-skinned women, with their
straight, flowing hair, are the last remnants of the once powerful tribe of Choc-
taw Indians, who were once the very owners of the soil on which New Orleans
stands. They have come all the way from the old Indian settlement of Bayou
Lacombe, across Lake Pontchartrain, to the French Market, where they always
find a ready sale for their "gumbo fil6" and fragrant "tnsanes." And in the
French market, above all, there is the charm of local life and color, especially
of a Sunday morning, when the Creole belles and beaux saunter leisurely
through, buying roses and jasmines, after hearing mass in the old Cathedral.

These Indians

deserve more than a passing notice. The history of this tribe is one
of peculiar interest. They were the only Indians who never once rose in
arms against the United States. They were bound by ties of deepest friend-
ship to the early settlers of Louisiana, and called the good Bienville, their
"father." In all the early troubles of the infant colony they were always at
the side of the colonists, and when Jackson led the Americans against the
British, on that memorable Eighth of January, 1815, they followed the fortunes
of the Americans and merited a compliment from the lamous "Old Hickory"
in his report to the Government.

In token of their fidelity, they were never sent to the Indian reservation;
but years since they were crowded out of New Orleans by the superior and
cultured race, and they have lived quietly on the ground allotted to them by
the United States at the Indian settlement of Bayou Lacombe, over in St. Tam-
many Parish. Twice a week, on Simday and Thursday, they come to the
city, crossing, free of fare, on the steamer that plies between Old Landing and
New Orleans, and then walking from Lake Pontchartrain to the French
Market, where they always find a ready sale for their good "gumbo fil6" and

MORNIKCx IN THE FRENCH MARKET.

t»unclies of herbs from whicli the Ci-eoles concoct such fragrant "tisanes" for
the sick.

The amenability and docility of the Choctaws have been attributed by his-
torians to the wonderful influence exercised over them by the Catholic priests
who labored among them in the beginning, from generation to generation in

VIEW OF FRENCH MARKET.

Louisiana. Very sweet among them, especially, is the memory of Father Bnn-
<jn' tte, a famous poet and scholar of Louisiana- who devoted nearly sixty :^(ar-<
of his life to unremitting labor among these simple untutored childien ol ihe

TAKING. A CUP OF CAFE NOIR — FRENCH MARKET.

forest. When he died the tribe came all the way from Bayou Lacombe bearing
their bunches of sassafras and "laurier" to lay upon his grave.

You turn from the market, with its singular complexity that interest* while
it challenges admiration, and

Emerge upon the Levee.

The scene along the Levee is at all times extremely animated, especially
In the vicinity of the French Market.

The Levee in front of liic fish n.nrket is calU'tl llie "IMcayunc "3*itet"" «
Lugger Landing. • •' " ll^i

GKOITP OF INDIANS FKENCH MARKET.

The "Dago" fishermen from the lower coast land their cargoes of (>r:ingeB
ana oysters here, and here gathers a swarm of luggers, with their sails tiad
dotvn on their long booms or flapping idly in the breeze to dry, while their motley

barrp:i.s of sweets overflow the levee.

crew of traders through the bayous and lakes of the lower Louisiana coast-
Greeks, Italian, Dagoes, Gascons, negroes and nondescripts — bustle about un-

loading cargoes of orauges, oysters, fish, vegetables aud all the various produce
of the land and water of their section; or else, while waiting for some sort of
a cargo to set sail again, loiter idly about, smoking their cigarettes and cooking

A DAGO FKriT STALL FKICXCH MARKI'.T.

their meals over queer little furnaces ilred with cluircual. The "IMcayune T'er"
is always a picturesque sight.

PICAYUXi: TIl'lK.

Walking up the levee one or two squares, you reach the site of the old
"Government House;" this stood at the corner of Levee and Toulouse b5( reels in

the old colonial days. It was burned in 1S26, after the sale of Louisiana to the
United States.

One square further up, between St. Louis and Customhouse Streets, are
the Sugar Sheds. At this point one gets a fine view of the shipping. The
Sugar Exchange, where the merchants conduct many of those operations which
regulate the price of sugar throughout the country is on the corner of Front
and Bienville Streets.

One cannot pass this section of the Levee without realizing the greatness
and importance of the sugar industry of Louisiana. Block after block along
about midwinter is packed and crowded with barrels and hogsheads of sugar
and molasses. Large as the area is, it scarce affords room for the product that
eeeks this greatest sugar market in the United States. The barrels of sweets
crerflow the sheds, crowd all the warehouses in the vicinity, block the side-
walks and overrun the Levee. There is sugar everywhere.

A word right here about the cultivation of sugar cane in Louisiana will
be of interest. In 1794 Etienne de Bor§, a planter living about six miles above
New Orleans, in the spot where Audubon Park now stands, succeeded in making
the first crop of sugar ever made in Louisiana. He disposed of his crop for

THE SUGAR KXCHANGE.

$12,000. The cultivation of cane was first introduced by the Jesuit Fathers in
1751, but up to 1792 no planter had ever succeeded in making the syrup gran-
ulate, and so convert it into sugar in sufficient quantities to make the culture
profitable. To Etienne de Bore belongs this, honor. His portrait hangs in the
Sugar E.Kchange in this city. The cultivation of sugar cane has contributed
more to the prosperity of Louisiana than any of her other products.

Close by the Sugar Exchange are several great refineries where the crude
products of the sugar-houses on the plantations is changed into the beautiful
white sugar seen upon our tables.

Continuing up Chartres Street, to Canal, one passes many quaint old court-
yards and dilapidated mansions telling of the glory of departed days.

In Chartres Street, near Canal, are some famous antique shops and won-
derful bird stores, where the chatter of magpies and parrots, mingling with the
Bongs of mocking birds and canaries, and the crowing of roosters and cackle of
fine breeds of chickens, and the squealing of monkies, seem to transport one
into a South American forest. The gay plumaged birds from the tropics always
to be found in these quaint stores give tlieni a tmpical color and beauty that
fascinate strangers.

CHAPTER VI.

Rampart Street and Its Vicinity — St. Louis Ceme=

teries — Congo Square — The Voudo ds —

The Barefooted Nuns.

North Rampart Street is the handsome Avenue, with a neutral ground
shaded by tiees, beginning four squares beyond the Rue Royal at Canal Street.
It was the ancient limits of the city laid out by Bienville, and was called "Ram-
part" because a strong redoubt ran along it in old Creole days.

As the city spread beyond its primitive limits. Rampart Street became a.
fashionable residence avenue. The moat which ran along the center of th&
neutral ground, or present car track, was filled in, and beautiful shade tree*
were planted along the Avay on either side, as far as the intersection of Esplan-
ade Avenue.

Rampart is an interesting street, not only in itself, but o^ account of th»
many curious old side streets which cross it, and whose songs and stories read
like wild romance in these realistic days. From the quaint old mortuary-
chapel where Pere Antoine used to chant the litany of the dead, to the cloistered
monastery, where barefooted nuns, by night and day keep vigils of prayer for the
sins of the "Vieux Carre," Rampart Street is full of historic interest and
legendary lore.

Though it was such an ancient Creole boundary, as time went on Rampart
Street became a fashionable residence quarter, and "Americans," too. sought
to have their homes in the old street. On the lake side, just adjoining the large
pharmacy on the Canal Street corner, there dwelt for many years, while she
made New Orleans her home, Mrs. Sallie Ward Hunt, the famous Kentucky
belle of old Southern days. The house may be known by the curious old porclk
jutting out on the banquette with a spiral iron stairway leading up.

Adjoining it is the home in which the celebrated Madame Octavia Waltott
Levert, the feminine literary genius, of ante-bellum days, lived when visiting
New Orleans.

At 203 North Rampart Street, the Eye, Ear, Nose and Throat Hospital will
be observed. At No. 224 is the handsome home of the Young Men's Gymnastic
Club. Admission is by card. The club possesses very elaborate marble bath»
and swimming tanks and a magnificent gymnasium.

The quaint little Church of St. Anthony of Fadua stands on the comer of
Conti and Rampart Streets. This is the ancient

Mortuary Chapel of Old New Orleans.

There is an old Spanish law still observed in the American colonies that
once belonged to Spain, that forbade the burial of the dead from the Cathedral
churches. When the Episcopal See of New Orleans was founded in 1793, and
the beautiful old edifice erected by Don Almonaster facing the Place d'Arme»
was advanced to the dignity of a cathedral, it became necessary to have a
church for the celebration of services over the dead. This chapel, which is a
pure type of tlie old mortuary chapels of Spain, was built, and dedicated to thia
purpose. After the close of the Civil War the chapel was diverted from its
primitive uses and made a parish church, with Father Turgis, the famous Con-
federate chaplain of the Pointe Coupoe Regimenr, as its first pastoc In the
curious old house around the corner, with the quaint balcony reaching far out
on the sidewalk. Father Turgis lived, and here the survivors of the old regiment
used to gather evening after evening to share his humble hospitality and talk
over the dead days. After Father Turgis' death the Church was used as a
special place of worship for Italians. Recently the Dominic-»n Friars were
given charg-e of it, Rev. Thomas Lorente, lately of St. Thomis University,
Manila, being the first Dominican Rector. Many of the foreign customs of

the churches iu Italy prevail here. Tlio shi-ine of St. Anthony and St. Bartholo-
mew surrounded by lighted tapers and "'ex voto" offerings in thanksgiving for
favors received, are peculiarly foreign iu appearance.

Just over the way from St. Anthony's Church is an old building erected in
1822 as a synagogue lor oarly .Jewish ('migrants. Upon the consolidation of the
congregation in 1878, with that of the "Dispersed of Judali," who worshiped iu
the building on Carondelet street, near .Julia, above Canal Street, the edifice In
Ii;impart Street was put on the markt't for sale. It is now used as a lauudry.

OLD MOKTUAKV CHAPICI..

The next corner is St. Louis Street, and right here while doing Kampart
Street and its vicinity, the tourist will do well to turn into this ancient thorough-
fr.re, which still bears the name given it by tiie loyal-hearted Bienville, and
view the

Old French Cemeteries.

^he first of which, lying at the corner of North Basin, is the oldest cemetery in
7^«w Orleans. St. Louis Nos. 2 and 3 are in tiie immediate vicinity. These are
the ancient burying grounds of the old "carrt^." They are very foreign-looking,

Tcry quaint and picturesque. A brief history of each is given iu the chapter
on •Cemeteries," to which the follower of this Guide is directed to turn at this
particular point.

Passing from these ancient cemeteries, where have been sleeping these
hundred years the old French and Spanish noblesse who gave to New Orleans
its history and name, the tourist again enters St. Louis Street, and at the cor-
ner the

*'OId Basin,"

with its curious freight of oyster luggers and charcoal schooners, discliargmg
their cargoes, bursts upon the view. The Basin is the terminus of the Caroa-
delet Canal, which was the monumental work of the administration of the
Spanish Governor of colonial days. Baron de Carondelet. The "Carondelet
Canal" extends from the Old Basin southwest to the Bayou St. John, in the
Second District. The banks are called the "Carondelet Walk." The canal was
dug by orders of Carondelet for the purpose of draining the vast swamps in the
rear of the city. He also thought that by bringing the waters of the Bayou St.

A GLIMPSE OF THK OLD FKKNCH CEMETKKIES.

John into a '"basin" close to the city "ramparts" he would greatly facilitate
the commerce of New Orleans. In recognition of his work the "Cabildo" be-
stowed his name upon the canal and its bank.s. The Old Basin is large and
square, and occupies the area between St. Claude and North Franklin Streets,
Carondelet Walk and Toulouse. The canal empties at Hagan Avenue into the
Bayou St. John, by which access may be had to Lake Pontchartrain at Spanish
Fort. The scene along the canal and basin is at all times picturesque, and
exceedingly curious and foreign-looking. It furnishes a frequent theme of study
for local and visiting artists.

The New Orleans Terminal Raihvaj-. org^anized to build terminal rail-
way accomodations, that will be used by other roads, recently came into
possession of an extensive area of g^round in the rear of the Citj' along- the
Old Basin Canal, extending- from Basin Street about twelve or fiftesn
.squares along- the Canal. The Railwa}' Company expects to erect here its
car yards and warehouses; it has agreed to run a track out Basin Street to
Canal and at this point will put up a fine union depot. The Railway Com-
pany also expects to build a part of the Public Belt Railroad, along- the
river front, and will have close connections with other railroads. It has
bought up an extensive tract in the Parish of St. Bernard, and expects to

build wharves for the loading of grain, cotton, etc., with wharf room for
about twenty-five vessels.

The scene along the banks from St. Louis Street to Toulouse, where the
Dagoes have their "lugger landing," is particularly unique. From Toulouse it
is just one square to Rampart Street, and the tourist finds himself again at his
point of departure.

At the southwest corner of Rampart and Toulouse 'stands a high three-
storied brick building, with iron verandas. This was known during the period
of the early American domination as the "Cafe des Ameliorations," and
was to the old New Orleans of that day what the famous "Caf6 des Exiles"
and the "Cafe des Enfants Fideles" were to French and Spanish New Orleans
of a more remote period. At the "Cafg des Ameliorations" the old Creole gentle-
men discontented and alarmed at the growing power of the "Americans," used
to meet and discuss questions for the amelioration of their "dear city," and its
rescue from the hands of the invaders. Here they used to weekly concoct plana

DAGO LUGGER LANDING — OLD BASIN.

for the overthrow of the government, the arrest of the State officials, and the
iisgertion of the supremacy of the Creoles. All this reads like a romance now,
but it was very real to the Creoles of those days, this question of absolute
American domination.

And now you are in that section of New Orleans around which cling wild
Biiperstitions and legends of fetich worship, echoes of weird music and visions of
pliostly figures dancing the wild "Congo" of their native plains; of negroes
g.-ithering in the dead hours of the night while the old Faubourg slumbered on,
to work their charms and spells and offer tribute to their idol "The Grand
Zombi." For the large open area on the west side of Rampart Street, between
St. Peter and St. Ann, is the ancient

Congo Square,

tlie "Place des Negres," or Negro Square, the great holiday place of the slaves
Jn early Creole and later ante-bellum times: the spot, too, in which by night
tho awful worship of "the serpent" took place. Sunday evening was the great

holiday for the negroes in slavery times; for this one jvening they enjoyed
almost absolute freedom to go and come as they pleased. On Sunday evenings,
therefore, decked in their most gorgeous colors and many of them wearing the
cast-off finery of their masters and mistresses, the negroes of both sexeg
used to assemble by the thousands under the shade of the sycamore trees of
the "Congo Plains" as they termed the square and the Tvoods beyond, to dance
the wild "Bamboula." or the gay "Calinda, Badoum! Badoum!" Every Sunday
afternoon the "Bamboula dancers" were summoned to a woodyard on Dumaine
Street, by a sort of drum roll effected by rattling the ends of two huge bones
on the head of a cask. The male dancers fastened little bits of tin or metal to
ribbons tied about their ankles. These rattles were very much like the strings
of copper "gris-gris," worn by the native Soudans. After the Congo Plains were
built up the dances were restricted to the square. Of a Sunday evening it
presented a most picturesque and animated scene with its hundreds of dusky
dancers, singing their quaint half-Congo, half-Creole songs. Hundreds of the
best whites, lured by the fascinating, curious rhythm, sung to the beating of
the "tan-tarn," used to promenade in the vicinity of the square to see the
negroes dance "Congo." In the center of the square stood a cannon which was
fired promptly at 9 o'clock. This was the signal for dispersal and the revelers
would troop merrily homeward, singing as they went, "Bon soir, dans§! Soleil
Couch§." or "Good night dance; the sun is seti But this did not trouble them
much, for they knew the sun would rise next Sunday, after their week's labor
was over, and they would have another holiday. Such was the happy, joyous
life of the slaves in the old days.

But as might have been already inferred, Congo Square did not always
present such an innocent scene of merry, careless pastime. Rather does its
name suggest. to the natives of the present day the memory of ghostly stories of
wild revelry of witches and bacchanals, and of a mysterious fetich worship, so
strange, so awful, that for upwards of a hundred years it exerted over the
minds of the ignorant of both races, a sway as powerful and tragic as that of
witchcraft in the medieaval ages. For in Congo Square were held the weird

Voudoo Rites,

or worship of the serpent. This awful fetich worship was brought to New
Orleans by the negro slaves who faithfully followed the fortunes of their mas-
ters after the San Domingo revolution. The worship was introduced into Hayti
and San Domingo by the Congo negroes who dwelt on the western plains of
Africa. The term "Voudoo" is a corruption of the Haytien "vaudaux," softened
by the Creole lingo and further corrupted by the negroes into "hoodoo." To be
a "Voudoo" was an awful term of reproach among the negroes, for a "Voudoo"
was supposed to be in direct communication and league with the spirit of dark-
ness for the propagation of evil. The "Grand Zombi," or serpent, was the
peculiar object of worship and was guarded as sacred by their queen and high-
priestess, Marie Laveau, "in an exquisitely carved box of alabaster in her own
bedchamber." The Voudoos first held their orgies in the Congo Plains, which
used to embrace Congo Square. They met at the midnight hour to work their
spells, while the French Quarter slept; yet many a master and mistress awoke
in the morning happily unconscious of the fact that their favorite slave had
perhaps danced with the Voudoos that night. The Voudoos believed Congo
Square to be a charmed spot, which the Grand Zombi had chosen for hia
favorite haunt; and though it has been many, many a year since they have
dared to hold a dance there, occasionally some fowl or bird finely roasted with
needles and pins stuck all over it, and dimes and nickles arranged around the
dish is placed in the middle of the square at the midnight hour, as an offering
to the voudoo spirit, and miniature coffins and lighted candles are found on the
doorsteps of houses, showing that though the once powerful cult has been rigidly
suppressed by law, remnants of its followers still exist in New Orleans. St.
John's Eve, June 24, was the great Voudoo festival. After the Congo Plains
were laid out into streets, and the square itself placed under such strict police
surveillance, the Voudoos used to assemble on the banks of the Bayou St. John,
just where the waters meet the dreary swamp land. In this wild and dismal
spot they used to erect their altars and sing their weird unearthly chants while

tliey daoced the wild "Dance of the Serpent" around the boiling pot. This pot
contained bits of the skins of alligators, frogs and snakes from the bayou be-
yond, pieces of human hair, fingernails and toe nails; the higher the flames
leaped in the air the wilder the dance, and when the flickering fire began to die
out these skins were laid on the altar of the serpent and then distributed among
the Voudoos. They became the famous "gris-gris" charms with which they< were
supposed to work out their evil designs.

Just around the corner there stood until recently, on St. Ann Street, be-
tween Rampart and Burgundy Streets, the ancient homestead of

Marie Laveau, the Voudoo Queen.

For upwards of eighty year.'; this woman was the high priestess of the
Voudoos and held them at her beck and call. Though the cult was a secret one,
she numbered her followers by the thousands, and only a voudoo knew pci§:tjvely
who Iier associates were. Not that the negroes as a body, were membcsr^ of this
particular sect: on the contrary so great was the terror inspired by the name
that to be known as a "Voudoo" was to be ostracized from all intercQurSQ wjtb
the respectable colored element, whether free or slaves. Marie LaveaUi was.aQt
a quadroon nor yet a mulatto, .she was not as fair as the one nor as dark as the
other. But in her youth she was said to have been very tall, majestic and beau-
tiful, and easily .s\v;ived her subjects l)y her magnetic eye. Two years ago the old
homestead, built 200 years ago and held together by nails that were veritable
spikes, was demolished. Seven generations of Laveaus were born and reared
within its walls, for Marie Laveau's mother before her had been the Voudoo
Queen, and so had her grandmother. In this home was shown for many years by
the Voudoo Queen's only surviving daughter, the famous shawl sent to Marie la-
veau by the Emperor of China seventy-five years back. It was of .softest silk,
and it was in this shawl that tradition says she used to dance the wild "Dance of
the Serpent." Marie Laveau died within the last two decades. She repented-
before her death and died a Christian.

Before leaving this romantic section the tourist should cross to Orleans
Street, where just behind the square used to stand the old Parish Prison. For
sixty-one years it squatted in gray grandeur, gloomy and forbidding in the
square bounded by Orleans, Marais, St. Ann and Treme Streets. In 1895 the
city built a new prison and jail house, in Tulane Avenue, and the old structure
was torn down. iNiiiny associations were linked with the antiquated prison and
there was perhaps no building in the United States to which so varied a crim-
inal history was attached. It was utilized in the sixties as a military prison,
and wtis subsequently the scene of many memorable executions, chief among
which was the celebrated

Mafia Lynching

On Marcli 14. tSOI, when two Italians were hung outside of the prison
and nine otht-rs were .shot to death in various parts of the building. These men
and eight others were charged with the assassination of David C. nenneasy.
Superintendent of Pohce, on October 15, 1890. Of the Italians indicted for the
crime nine had been placed upon trial on February 16, and of these the jury,
which had been corruptly influenced, acquitted six, a mistrial resulting as. to the
other three. Of the men lynched five were awaiting trial. The lynch-
ing led to international complications, and resulted in the payment by the
United States of heavy damages to the relatives of the slaughtered men. The
Mafia, it should be said, is a secret society of Italians, Corsicans and Sicilians.

•Tust beyond the site of the ancient prison the towers of the Treme Market
rise in view. The market was built on a portion of the Congo Plains, and named
for Mon. Trem$. a wealthy Creole citizen, who purchased much land in that
section when the old wilderness was cleared and cut into streets. The market
was intended to supplement the French Market in that section.

The ornate, twosloried brick structure between Dumaine and St. Philip is
the Hall of the Union Frangaise. The celebrated French Literary Society,
"L'AtliC'nC-e Louisiannis," holds its meetings here.

AU'd now you are away from echoes of old superstitions, in the gay, laugh-
ing hjeart of the social life of the French Quarter of to-day. Over the streets
float the echoes of piano and guitar, and the rich voice of some beautiful girl
singing that favorite chanson of the old "carre,"' "Zoao Moquer."

The large two-storied structure standing out upon the banquette in the
center of the square on the east side of Rampart Street, between Ursulines and
St. Philip, is the ancient home of the Lafitte family. The gallery, with its im-
mense fluted columns, is a typical Southern mansion of later Creole days, as
may be noticed all along the Rue Esplanade.

At the corner of Rampart and Hospital streets, diverge one square toward
the lake side, and at the corner of Hospital and St. Claude Streets, see the old
St. Augustine's Church. This site was formerly an open stretch of land, upon
which stood the historic Orleans College. One of the first acts of the American
reconstruction, in 1804, was to incorporate by act of Legislature an "English
College" for the education of the Creole youth, and to obviate the necessity of
sending young men to Paris for higher study as heretofore. Latin, Greek and
French were fundamental studies in the institution.

A tradition of the Old Quarter is the memory of Monsieur D'Avezac, who
was the first President of the College. He was a great classical scholar and
was noted for his translation of Sir Walter Scott's "Marmion" into French.
Scott wrote back a beautiful autograph letter telling how pleased he was with
the "perfect translation." This letter is religiously preserved by the descend-
ants of Monsieur D'Avezac in New Orleans. Monsieur D'Avezac was so pol-
ished in Latin and Greek, and so famous for his ponderous quotations from
these languages that his, young collegians used to call him "Titus." Monsieur
Rochefort, another professor, was noted for his graceful translation of Horace
into French. It was the boast of the "Fauboui'g" that his "boys" used to walk
the Quarter quoting the odes so faithfully that even the little "niggers" were
imbued with Horace, from hearing their young mastei's descant so much upon
him. Racine and Corneille and the Greek tragedies (translated into beautiful
French) were served with breakfast in the French Quarter in the first decade
and a half of the nineteenth century. The college had a "day school" for children
who were unable to pay board, and a "free or charity department," the pupils
of which were chosen by the trnstees. The Creole mothers of New Orleans
broke up the college. In 1818 Joseph Lakanal, a member of the French In-
stitute, whom Napoleon had appointed President of the Bonaparte Lyceum,
came as a refugee to New Orleans and was called to fill a vacancy in the col-
lege directorate. Lakanal was an atheist and an ex-priest; this fact became
known, and the first public

Meeting of Women in New Orleans

resulted. The pious Creole mothers of New Orleans declared that "They would
have no anti-Christ teach their boys; that the trustees of an institution who
could appoint such a man were unfit to be intrusted with the education of
youth." A mass meeting of citizens was held, as a sequel to the meeting of
women; and the demand was made that the trustees rescind their action. These
gentlemen persisted and the next day the great majority of the best-paying pu-
pils were withdrawn; in fact, as the old Creoles were proud afterwards of de-
claring, "there were not sufficient pupils left to pay the salary of even one
director." The "day school" also was obliged to close its doors, and as for the
"charity contingent," the mothers of these boys also met and sent word to the
directors "that they might be poor, but that they were too honest to allow their
sons to meet on the same ground as Monsieur Lakanal." So perished the old
Orleans College, at which the historian Gayarre, and all the most cultured gen-
tlemen of the early American domination were educated. All that remains t(^
day is a remnant of the long old-fashioned "doi-mitory," now used as a tene-
ment row. "Joseph Lakanal, le Canaille Directeur" is a fragment of an old
Creole chanson composed in derision of the College d'Orleans at the time it
fell into disfavor. Lakanal was given a famous "charavari," and finding hig
presence so odious to New Orleans, he left the city. Then a new verse com-
memorating his departure was added to the old song. Upon the site of the
college there rose a few years later St. Augustine's Church, the second oldest
in the French Quarter. It is very quaint and beautiful and remaining just as
when erected, is worth a visit.

46
Just back of the Church was erected in 1836, Mount Carmel Convent for

The Higher Education of Young Ladies.

The Sisterhood is a local foundation and the school has always enjoyed the
patronage of the best Creole families. Almost all the Sisterhood are native
Creoles. An interesting bit of history is that the Sisters seeing the demorall-
Bation prevailing among the quadroons and octoroons at the time of their foun-
dation, sought to stem the current by establishing a "Pension des Demoiselles
de Couleur" as a separate and distinct department. In this colored department
the children of the free colored people were taught reading, writing, sewing,
embroidery, fancy work and music, along with thorough moral and re-
ligious training. They returned to their homes educated, accomplished
and filled with the purity and truth of life inculcated in the old con-
vent, and many of these women are most active workers in charity and
philanthropic effort among their race in New Orleans to-day. When the war
was over the old "Pension des Demoiselles de Couleur" was closed forever.

Returning to Rampart Street, around the corner, near Dauphine Street, is
"La Maison Hospitaliere," a home founded by Creole ladies after the war, for
reduced gentlewomen.

The large brick building passed, on the way back to Rampart Street, la
McDonogh No. 15 School, formerly the ancient Barracks School.

It is very beautiful with its great galleries, spacious rooms and lofty ceil-
ings. The courtyard is very quaint and pretty. For many years the building
itood as a type of the early public school buildings of the city. Some years
ago it was renovated and enlarged through the McDonogh Public School Fund,
and the new name bestowed upon it. The ancient characteristics of the school
were, however, retained in the repairing and enlarging. The school is interest-
ing to the visitor as being patronized solely by the French-speaking children and
those of the other Latin races that have poured into New Orleans. In this
respect McDonogh No. 15 is unique among the public schools of the city.

And now you are at the end of the old Creole street. It seems a strange co-
incidence that the old "Ramparts," whose first building was a church over
e hundred years ago, should in these later days, harbor at its further end another
church or chapel on the grounds of the dim

Cloistered Monastery of Discalced Carmelites.

The Monastery stands at the corner of Barracks and Rampart Streets.
There are only four convents of this order in America. The one in New
Orleans was founded by two cultured Creole ladies. The nuns lead the most
rigorous life, wearing sackcloth next their skin, going barefooted the year round
and eating nothing but vegetables and fruit. The order is a strictly cloistered
one. From the moment a Carmelite pronounces her vows she never again
looks upon the faces of friends. Visitors are only admitted to the
chapel, or to the little reception room in the old courtyard. They may speak to
the lay or outer sisters, and also to the cloistered ones if they desire prayers
for themselves or others; but the cloistered nuns sit behind a grating over
which a heavy black veil is nailed, and you only hear their voices, sweet ana
low, exhorting you to patience in trials and afflictions and greater confidence in
the mercy of God.

At the Matin and Vesper Services, which are sung daily, the invisible nuns,
within the grating, use the solemn Gregorian chant of ancient Catholic Rome,
which is only in one key.

Across Esplanade Avenue, where the great, white building stands, called
"St. Aloysius Commercial Institue," begins the new "Rampart" Street, laid out
many years after the foundation of New Orleans, by Mandeville de Marlgny,
when he cut up his old plantation into streets and lots. It was called by him
the Rug Amour or Love Street. In recent years by an act of the City
Council seeking to reduce order out of the multiplicity of the names of th«
streets running parallel through the various old "Faubourgs," or "municipali-
ties," and to simplify the arrangement of the city map. Love was made a con-
tinuation of Rampart Street. The old name still holds, however, with ancient
residents of the "Faubourg Marigny."

CHAPTER VII

The '*New Rampart Street" — The Ursuline Con-
vent — The Barracks, Chalmette Monu=
ment and Battlefield.

Though it is called the "New Rampart Street," it is full of historic interest.
The Rampart car, which may be taken as the visitor completes the tour of
ancient Rampart Street, just at the intersection of the Rue Esplanade, or io
Canal Street, if a day is reserved for such important points of interest as the
Ursuline Convent, the United States Barracks or the Chalmette Monument and
Battle Field, carries the tourist through the heart of the old City of Mandeville
de Marigny. The car runs down Dauphine Street and returns by way of Ram-
part to Canal. At the comer of Esplanade and Dauphine Street is a fine old

ANCIENT SUN DIAL UKSLLINK CONVENT.

colonial house which is now occupied by Mr. Charles Claiborne, a grandsou cf
the first American Governor of Louisiana.

Near the corner of Union and Dauphine stands the "Ecole des Orphellns
Indigens." This was the first free school ever opened for negro children in tht
United States. In 1840 an old free colored woman died and left to the Catholic
archdiocese a fund in trust, for the establishment of a free school for colored
orphan children, and directed that her old home, which stood on the spot, should
' e used as a schoolhouse. Some years ago the old landmark of ante-bellum
tiays was torn down, but the school, which had a continuous existence since iti
foundation in 1840, has endured.

Between Frenchman and Elysian Fields Streets lies Washington Sgnsre,
the first public recognition given in New Orleans to the illustrious Father of
His Country. The park is inclosed. Formerly all the parks were similarl/
inclosed, and at night, promptly at 9 o'clock, the watchmen cleared the park
and locked the gates. The custom still maintains at Washington Square.

Just across from the square is a large, brown, two-storied brick building;
this was the ancient residence of Governor Claiborne. His descendants still live
in this beautiful old home.

At Washington Square the car crosses

Elysian Fields Street.

or the "Champs Elysees," as it was called by the old Creoles. What visions
of Parisian splendor rise to mind at the mere mention of "Les Champs lOly-
s6es." In early days the famous old Mariuiny Canal ran along the street
from the Mississippi River to Lake Pontehartrain. When Marigny
decided to build his own city and cut up all his plantation domain into
streets, he laid out this wide avenue and called it the "Champs Elysees." Trees
were planted all along the canal; beautiful sailing boats were always to be
found in the waters. He intended that the New Orleans Champs Elysees should
rival its famous Parisian namesake. Seeing the advantages offered by the
street, the American Company which contemplated the erection of the old St.
Charles Hotel offered to erect the famous hostelry in this street if they could
secure the section lying between Dauphine and Burgundy Streets. But Marigny
said that the Champs Elysees was for the children of France and asked such
a fabulous price for the lot that the Company finding it above all consideration
in sheer disgust purchased the square above Canal Street, where after many
years was erected the old St. Charles Hotel. Alas! for the dreams of the col-
onial magnate. The "Champs Elysees" is now a railroad street, frequently
used for parking cars, and none of the grandeur that its founder intended for
it ever materialized. From the car window may be seen toward the Levee the
depot of the Pontehartrain Railroad.

It may interest visitors to know that this is

The Second Oldest Railroad in the United States,

and that along its line, after the canal, which had been drained, was gradually
filled in, were erected the first freight platforms ever used. It is a curious fact
that in the old days when the engine could not generate sufficient steam, sail»
were attached to the cars to assist in propelling the train. This may read like
a fairy tale, but its veracity was vouched for by such authoritative eye-wit-
nesses as the late historian Gayarre, the old Notary Guyol, and others. The
Pontehartrain Railroad still bearing its ancient name, though owned by the
Louisville and Nashville Company, runs along Elysian Fields to the old town,
of Milneburg, which stands on the banks of the "Old Lake," which was the only-
lake resort of early Creole days.

Next the corner of Dauphine and Elysian Fields is an ancient "Calaboose."
or prison, which was erected when the Faubourg Marigny was a distinct muni-
cipality.

At the corner of Elysian Fields and Burgundy Streets stands the
Elysium Theatre, recently erected at a cost of $30,000.

At St. Ferdinand Street the car reaches the terminus of the old French
Faubourg, and there begins that thrifty and interesting "German Settlement."
which did so much for the building up along industrial lines of this section of
New Orleans. The settlement extends far out to the verge of St. Roch Ceme-
tery, and towards the Barracks far into Clouet and Montegut Streets, where
another distinct French settlement begins, consisting of later settlers who es-
tablished here their little farms and truck gardens and supplied the French
Quarter with vegetables.

The Holy Trinity Church of which Father Thevis founder of St. Roch's
Chapel was for many years pastor is near the corner of St. Ferdinand and
Dauphine. The customs of old German Catholic countries still maintain in
this church.

At 3029 Dauphine Street is the Benedictine Convent of the Holy Family.
The sisterhood was driven out of Germany after the Franco-Prussian war when
Bismarck enacted the May laws. New Orleans ever friendly to the exile offered
it an asylum and its work has been marked by continuous progress and pros-
perity.

At Press Street the car crosses the tracks of the Queen and Crescent Rail-
road. All this section, extending along the road from the river front to Ram-
part and down Dauphine and Royal for several squares, was once the

4<)

Great Cotton Pfess Section

oi New Orleans. Here, tlie rear roiand. in season and out of season, could he
seen thousands of bales of the fleecy staple piled so high one above another
along the sidewalks and through the extensive cotton yards that it seemed as
though all the world of cotton had come to New Orleans to find a market^
These were the busv davs when "Cotton was King." It was stored and pressed
here in immense quantities until the Queen and Crescent Railroad came and rflTi ,
its line right through the heart of the old presses and pickeries and in time
acquired all this ground; the great brick-walled presses were torn down, ane
all that remains of the old yards are the long line of sheds under which cotton
was formerly stored in the famous Natchez Press. These now serve for cat;-

sheds. -, -i^ ^

The handsome edifice on Dauphine Street, between Clonet and Montegut
Streets, is St. Vincent de Paul's Church, which was erected some thirty-five
years ago on the site of the little frame chapel that did duty for a church in this
section fifty years ago.

On Piety Street, near Dauphine, is the Mount Carmel Female Orphan
Asylum, established sixty-three years ago. On the corner of North Peters and
Reynes Streets, clearly seen from the car, is St. Isidore's College, a large educa-'
tional institution under the direction of the Congregation of the Holy Cross,
It was opened in 1879 as an industrial school and model farm, and is closely
modeled upon the famous school of the Fathers of the Holy Cross, at Notre
Dame, Ind.

The ancient . ',

Ursuline Convent

is situated on North Peters, between Manuel and Sister Streets, but the plants--
tion extends from the banks of the Mississippi to the woods. At Manuel Street
the Rampart cars cut through the grounds, the sisters having granted the right
of way. A neat little waiting place and porter's lodge marks this rear and most
convenient entrance to the grounds. A paved walk leads up to St. Ursula's
Hall, a modern building, in which the reception rooms of the Convent are-
located. A few steps further from the river banks, the full beauty of the old-
historic edifice bursts upon you. The Convent occupies an immense ai-ea upott
which are several buildings, all communicating with one another, and with a
beautiful chapel at the lower end. The main building faces the river. It is
very imposing with gables and towers and broad galleries; it is always robed
in white and forms a prominent landmark for mariners. The Ursulines n-un»
were the pioneers of the religious orders of women in the New World and the
pioneer educators of women. The sisters were invited to come to New Orleans
by Bienville and arrived in 1727. Their school established that same year iu
Chartres Street, was the oldest institution for the education of young ladies ia
America. It is with pride that the people of New Orleans point to the old Con-
vent and tell of the work of the Ursulines in Louisiana. For upwards of a
hundred years they were the only teachers of girls, the only nurses in hospital
and on battlefield, the moulders of the virtues that formed the groundwork of
the sacred sanctuary of the home. Our historians are proud to acknowledge-
that "they were the spiritual mothers of the mothers of Louisiana." Such early-
Presidents as Thomas Jefferson and Andrew Jackson publicly and in autograph
letters preserved in the old Convent told of the debt that the people owed these
pioneers. The nuns removed to their present domicile in 1824. Their library-
contains over 10,000 volumes and the most ancient archives in Louisiana, are the
records of their order. They were the first historians of the State, and the daily-
diary kept by one of their nuns, "Madeleine Hauchard," from the time the sisters
set sail from France down through a period of over thirty-eight years, is the
only record extant in Louisiana of this early period. It is written in a most viva-
cious and entertaining style. The grand old halls of the convent are most inter-
esting, and no sight is more picturesque than the old Spanish courtyard, the most
beautiful in New Orleans, surrounded by stately arcades and arches and quaint
colonnades. The chapel of "Our Lady of Prompt Succor," which is reached'
from the river entrance to the curious old peaked-roofed building where the
chaplain resides, was erected in 1824. The chapel contains handsome altars.

.ind a statue of "Our Lady of Prompt Succor," which was carved way back in
1700, and brought to New Orleans by the sisters when they came to found
-lieir beautiful work. The statue is of wood richly gilded and carved and
•epresents the Virgin and Child. The solemn coronation of this statue took
:)lace in 1805. The crowns, which were the gift of the people, are of solid gold,
;nagnificently studded with precious stones and are valued at $20,000. The
-Aork of the Ursulines runs as a golden thread throughout the history of Lou-
isiana. For nearly one hundred and-fifty years, every incident of note was in
•iome measure connected with their earnest efforts, and their influence lias
always been exercised for good; so much so, that every report of Governors of
oarly days insists upon the fact that one might "as well try to establish a gov-
ernment without funds as to do without sisters."

Recently the old Convent celebrated its one hundredth and seventy-sixth
commencement. Year in and year out, in sunshine and shadow, as the history of
the city ran, th.e_,Convent has sent out its laurel-wreathed graduate^ to reflect
credit upon its ancient name. Still do the invitations to these exclusive occasions

URSULINK CONVKNT.

announce "Le Couronnement de la Sagasse," or the "Crowning of Wisdom,"
This simple term, so beautiful and expressive, as compared to the somewhat
dubious word "Commencement," so commonly in vogue, illustrates perhaps, in
■\ forcible manner, the reason wiiy. throughout New Orleans, there is so much
significance in the names of places, streets, objects, as applied by the early
<olonists and retained to this day. The Ursulines were the teachers of the
^vomen of Louisiana, and the women made the homes; here the sure foundations
Liid by the nuns, bore fruit and later found expression in the life and thought of
tlie people.

A few squares further on is the old Church of St. Maurice, lying over to-
v^-ards the woods. It is the parish church of upper St. Bernard Parish.

The next point of interest below the city is the Slaughter House. It is
just across the lower boundary line of Orleans Parish, in St. Bernard.
The slaughtering pens, or abattoirs, are in full operation about 3 o'clock p. m.,
and are usually interesting to visitors. Adjacent to the abattoirs are the pens
where the cattle are confined pending execution. Most of the cattle received

and butchered here come from Texas. The butchers are, for the most part.
<jl;iscons, who speak the Lin^unge of the Lower Pyrenees.

The United States Barracks,

otncially known as the Jackson Barracks, aie at the terminus of
<iie Rampart cars. The entrance, which is in a sort of network
in the river front, is between two heavy brick towers over fifty
yt-ars old. The Barraclcs buildings are disposed around the parade ground,
jiiid the whole is inclosed in thick brick walls. The corners of the walls are de-
fi-nded by towers pierced for musketry. Every evening the twilight gun Is
t;red, the soldiers salute the flag in the center of the grass plot, and the nation's
fiymbol is then hauled down for the night.

The Battle Field of Chalmette,

where General Jackson on January 8, 1815, won his famous victory over the
]{ritish, is about a mile and a half from the Barracks. It may be reached by a
-carriage drive along the river front; but on a pleasant day the walk is enjoy-
able. Intelligence that the British Government had fitted out an expedition
which was intended for the capture of New Orleans and Mobile reached the
authorities at Washington, December 9, 1814, and the President directed the
Governors of Kentucky, Tennessee and Georgia to dispatch their militia to
New Orleans. General Andrew Jackson went to the city to take charge of the
<defense. He promptly organized his forces. The Creoles gallantly enlisted.
Jackson also enrolled convicts and free men of color. With the volunteers
from other neighboring States, his force was speedily swelled to 5,000 men, of
whom less than 1,000 were regulars. The British Army was in command of
Oeneral Pakeuham. It was composed of 7,000 picked soldiers, including vet-
-erans who had served under Welhngtou, and a portion of the British Chesapeake
force under Admiral Cochrane. They were transported in fifty large vessels,
and anchored off the entpance to Lake Borgne in the latter part of December.
A meager flotilla of American gunboats opposed their landing, but it was speed-
ily and effectually dispersed. The enemy took full possession of Lake Borgne,
and effecting a landing an Ship Island crossed to the Northwestern end of
Lake Borgne, and on Dec. 25 struck the Mississippi about nine miles below New
Orleans. The British believed that their near approach was unsuspected, but
Major Villere, who resided at Corinne Plantation warned General Jackson.
The latter, supported by two armed vessels, took a small portion of his force
and boldly attacked the enemy on the evening of Dec. 24. He succeeded in doing
little else than showing the British that he was prepared to make a gallant
defense. On December 28 Pakenham returned General Jackson's attack, but
being unable to break the American lines recoiled before the effective artillery
fire of the Americans. Nothing was then done for nearly two weeks. In that
interval General Jackson was reinforced by 2,000 Kentuckians under General
Adair. Of this number 700 were marched to the front. The British also were
reinforced by a detachment under General Lambert, one of Wellington's officers.
This brought up their number to 10,000. On the morning of January 8, 1815,
the battle of New Orleans was fought. General Pakenham made a desperate
effort to carry the American position. The Americaas were drawn up within
fire miles of the city, along the banks of Rodriguez Canal and the Chalmette
Plantation. The defense extended from the river back to the swamps. The
British occupied a position between the Chalmette and Villere Plantations, and
their field works extended to the old Bienville Plantation. The attack began at
dawn and lasted till 8 o'clock. It began with artillery fire under cover of which
Pakenham advanced with the main body of his troops. The Americans with-
held their fire till the enemy was within 200 yards. Then volley after volley
was fired with marvellous precision. The slaughter was tremendous. The at-
tack was renewed repeatedly, but with no better results. General Pakenham
was mortally wounded and was borne off the field to the plantation of Major
Villere, where he died. General Gibbs, the second in command, was also mor-
tally wounded, and General Keane upon whom the command then devolved was
disabled by a shot in the neck. General Lambert then assumed command. He
Jibandoned the attack, withdrew to the ships, and on the following day re-
treated to Lake Borgne. The British loss has been conservatively estimated at

MISSISSIPPI RIVER

MAP OF BATTLE FIELD OF NEW ORLEANS, JAN. 8, 1815.
A -Jackson-s Headquarters. B, C, D— American Cavalry. E— American Redoubt F— Laffitp's
v,"^4^l 9~-\'^u^I Position. H-BritJsh Batteries. J-Part of British Attaclf. k-Monument
M — Pakenham killed. j«uuuujcui.

2,000, of whom less than 500 were taken prisoners.
8 killed and 13 wounded.

The American loss was

The Chalmette Monument

marks the place where the battle was fought. It stands on the grounds of
the ancient Chalmette Plantation, which was laid out by M. Chalmette de
Ligny, the ancestor of one of the oldest families in Louisiana. The erection
of the monument was begun between 1830 and 1840, under an appropriation
from the State. When the shaft reached the height of 60 feet the money was
exhausted and the work abandoned. The monument has been placed by a
State enactment under the care of the Daughters of 1T7G-1812,- The Association
intends to petition Congress for funds to complete the monument as the victory
of the Battle of IS^ew Orleans was a national one.

CHALMKTTE SlONUMENT.

Adjoining the monument site, is a fine old colonial building. In the year
1815 it was the residence of Mr. Montgomery, a wealthy merchant. It was here
that General Jackson made his headquarters during the battle. This historic
house, lately owned and occupied bj' Judg^e Rene Beauregard, son of the
famous Confederate General, has lately come into posstssionof the New Or-
leeins Terminal Railway Company, which has bought up extensive tracts
for terminal facilities in the Parish. The old mansion is now unoccupied.

It was here that the Marquis de Lafayette was first received when he
visited New Orleans early in the century. He landed m a smad boat imme-
ditely in front of the house, and was received in a room on the second floor by
the then Governor, Mayor and principal officials.

Further on is the old Villere plantation, where General Pakenham breathed
his last.

The property now called the Corinne Plantation is owned by
The New Orleans Railway Company. General Pakenham was
buried beneath an immense pecan tree near the old mansion

house." At his side was laid Colonel Dale of the Ninety-thirtl
Highlanders. The pecan tree still bears fruit, and curiously enonyh, while the
meat of all the pecans on the plantation is the usual white and brown, the
fruit of this particular tree is a deep red. The negroes have an old traditioi>
that the blood of Pakenham saturated the soil of the tree under which h&
was buried, and this percolating through the roots of the tree, caused the fruit
to be dyed with his blood. You could not persuade one of the negro slaves for
miles around to eat one of the pecans from that tree. A short distance further
down will be found the beautiful

Chalmette Cemetery.

The United States purchased, in 1S(j5, a portion of the old battle field and
converted it into this lovely burial place. The grounds, covered with hundreds
of little white marble headstones, each marking the grav6 of some unknowi>

JACKSON S HKADQUAKTKKS DURING THE BATTLE OF NEW ORLEANS*

soldier killed in the Civil War, are laid out in a tasteful manner, with shelled
walks and avenues of trees. The earthworks outside the walls of the cemetery
were erected by the Confederates during the Civil War as part of the defenses
of the city.

A mile below the cemetery is the terminal of the New Orleans and Western
Railway, known as Port Chalmette. It is owned by an English syndicate and
represents an investment of $2,000,000. Port Chalmette may be reached by
the Shellbeach train, whose depot is at the corner of St. Claude and Elysia»
Fields Streets.

Returning from the battle grounds of Chalmette by the Rampart and l)au-
phine car. just after the curve in Poland Street, where the car station stands^
are the old grounds of the "Macarty Squai-e." The grounds are named for an
ancient Franco-Irish family that followed the fortunes of the Bourbons, and
came as exiles to New Orleans.

Overlooking the square is the handsome McDonogh No. 12 public school.

At the corner of independence and Rnmpart Streets is the Convent of the
Marianites of the Holy Cross, a sisterhood which, having its mother house in
France, was called to New Orleans some sixty-eight years ago to assist in the
education of youth.

Two squares from Rampart Street, and easily secu from the cars, iherr
stands at the corner of Marais and Mandeville Streets the little old French
Church of the Annunciation, erected over fifty years ago for the French-speak-
ing people of the Faubourg Marigny. It is in the old French style of architec-
ture, as also the portion of the quaint presbytery, now the residence of Kt. Rev.
Gustave A. Rouxel. auxiliary bishop of New Orleans. The beautiful old-fash-
ioned garden, with its little shrine of Our Lady of Lourdes, is v.ell worth a
visit.

Adjoining are the handsome conyont building, school and chapel of the
Sisters of Perpetual Adoration, an exiled order of nuns from Alsaee and Lor-
raine, who came to New Orleans after the German occupation. The chapel
is ^ery beautiful. Night and day, at all hours, there are ahvays two sisters
kneeling and keeping watch before the "Blessed Sacrament;" hence the name,
"Perpetual Adoi-ation," which distinguishes the community.

At the corner of Rampart and Kerlerec Streets is the hall of the "Etoile
Polaire," or Polar Star, the home of a Masonic Lodge, which existed in New
Orleans in Pere Antoine's day, and which celebrated the one hundredth an-
niversary of its organization several years ago. Riding thence to Canal Street,
the circuit of the French Quarter is completed,

CHAPTER VIII

Front, Lower Chartres and Esplanade.

The Levee and Barracks car, which may be taken just before the Custom-
house, on Canal Street, will afford a fine Aiew of the entire Lower Levee front,
the shipping in port as far as the rue d'Enghien. when the car curves around
into the ancient Moreau (now Chartres) Street of the old Faubourg Marigny.
Between Port and St. Ferdinand, the car passes a long row of fine old brick
buildings, now, for the most part, alasl degenerated in the social scale to the
rank of cheap lodging-houses and Italian fruit vendors' estabhshments. But
this square was, in its day, the most aristocratic of the old Faubourg Marigny :
each house was a mansion in itself, and the tall, brick buildings annexed in the
long rows in the rear were quarters of the household slaves that served in the
exclusive families of the Notts. Kennedys, Dolhondes and others, who were the
owners of the soil. Receptions seeking to rival the palmiest days of the "Vieux
Carr6" were given in these homes. At the corner of St. Ferdinand and Char-
tres stand tlie old Kennedy and Nott mansions. Adjoining was a famous and
exclusive "Creole Pension." It was here that General Joseph Wheeley, the
"Fighting Joe of the Confederacy," and his beautiful wife stopped when they
visited New Orleans in ISGG, immediately after the war.

Just around the corner, in the ancient rue Casa Calvo, now a continua-
tion of Royal Street, is another fine row of old houses, three stories in height;
in one of these, 2712, ISIme. Beauregard, mother of the famous Louisiana hero,
lived when she was a young girl. One of the most beautiful old courtyards in
New Orleans lies hidden from the street, in the rear of this ancient home.

At the corner of Chartres and Mazant streets, St. Mary's Orphan Boys'
Asylum, an immense brick pile erected nearly sixty years ago for tlie accommo-
dation of the orphan boys of the city, stands. This institution is in charge of
the Sisters Marianites of the Holy Cross. Since the first days of its erection
it has seldom harbored less than 400 boys at a time, ranging in all ages from
babyhood to fifteen and over. Some of the best citizens of New Orleans have
been reared in this asylum.

At Poland Street the car diverges to the 'station.

The Esplanade and French Market Line may be taken in front of the Cus-
tom-house, at the corner of Canal Street; at Villere Street a transfer is given to
the Esplanade Avenue car. , , '

At the intersection of Esplanade and the Levee the car .tarns. ;into.t^Jie fine
old avenue, the historic residence portion of the city in later Creoie days. It is

one of tlie most beautiful streets iu New Orleans, and is to the Creoles what
St. Charles Avenue is to the Americans — the aristocratic residence street. The
avenue, tinough its entire length, from the river to the Bayou St. John, is
lined on ejther side of the car tracks with a continuous row of shade trees,
which uiftkes the street very pretty and attractive. The homes iu the avenue
vare the centner of Creole culture and refinement; fine old furnishings of the
Louis Qnatorze stylo adorn the interiors. Many romantic stories cluster about
these homes, and it is here, if you are so fortunate as to have a friend who
x;an gain you admittance to the e.xclusive society of the old French Quarter,
that you will see Creole beauty and society at its best.

At 704 Esplanade Avenue, cdrner of Royal Street, is a fine old brick man-
sion; this is the home of Mr. It. M. O'Brien, brother of the late Colonel Patrick
O'Brien, who recently left a legacy of .$150,000 to the Catholic University of
Ameriou, and erected, at a cost of $45,000, the beauuful new Church of the

HOMI-: I'^OR THP: AGF.D — LITTLIO SLSTKRS OF THK POOK-

DIOPARTMKNT.

-woman's

Sacred Heart, iu Canal Street, New Orleans, and, besides, left numerous bene-
factions to oharit5% irrespective of creed.

The large, three-.storicd brick building at the corner of Esplanade Avenue
and Nortii Rampart Street, is St. Aloysius Commercial College. The building
was erected by the Ursuline Nuns some twenty-five years ago at a cost of
^75,000, and subsequently sold to the Brothers of the Sacred Heart for school
j)uri)oses.

At the corner of St. Claude and Esplanade, just one square further on, is
another beautiful and imposing brick structure, with an old Roman portico.
Thi.s is the residence recently purchased by the Catholics of New Orleans for
the Archbishops of the diocese. The hall, laid in marble mosaic, is an exact
reprodoction of the famous Pompeiian Hall in Rome. The house was built by
a wealthy merchant some fifty years ago, at a cost of $175,000, and was the

liome of Captain Cntlibeit Slocoiiib. of the famous Washington Artillery, who
sei'ved nobly in the Civil War.

The handsome brick church on the Jowcr side of Esplanade Avenue, be-
tween Marais and Villere, is

St. Anna's Episcopal Church.

It occupies the site of a frame church which was erected in 1SG9 at a
cost of $10,000, by Dr. Mercer, in memory of his only child, Anna. This build-
ing was destroyed by lire in 1S7(>. Through the insurance and subscriptions
which he obtained from friends, Dr. Girault, who was then rector, began the
erection of the present edifice, the cornerstone of which was laid in March,
1877. The church freed from debt, was consecrated in 188G. The total cost
was $15,000. Dr. Gii'ault died in 1889, and was succeeded by the present rec-
tor, Dr. E. W. Hunter. Dr. Hunter is a Praver Book Churchman, and,
while the services at St. Anna's are, by no means, ritualistic, the Church
stands in the City as the representative of the High Church School of
Thoug-ht. The parish is one of the oldest in the diocese, having resulted
from a mission begun in 184(i. In this parish was begun the first organized
efl'ort to provide seamen with religious worship, it having been originally
called St. Peter's Church for Seamen. Since 1890, manj' improvements
liave been made, among them the purchase of a handsome rectory in Espla-
nade Avenue iind the erection of a Chapel, in memory of the Right Rev.
John Nicholas Gallegher, S. T. D.

At IGol Esplanade Avenue is the residence in which General P. G. T.
Beauregai-d died.

Within sight of the Esplanade Avenue car, as it reaches the corner of
-Tohnson Street, is the '"Homt for the Aged and Infirm," conducted by the Little
Sisters of the Poor. Tiie building, a large, three-storied brick structure, stands
within beautiful grounds at the corner of Laliarpe and Johnson streets, within
two squares of Esplanade. Nearly three hundred old men and women, all
over sixty, and many reaching far into the nineties, are cared for here by this

H^OMK FOR THK AGKD-

-LITTLF. SISTKKS OF THK POOR
PKPARTMKNT.

MFN S

gtutle sisterhood. Everyone in New Orleans knows the "Little Sisters" as lliey
go about, from day to day, in their great black capes and hoods, begging food
and clothing for their helpless old charges. A visit to the institution is both
interesting and instructive. The home is the old do^vn-to^Yn counterpart of the
groat building on Pryt..nia Street, in the up-town section of the city. At
this latter institution 200 old men and Avomen are the wards of these faithful
nuns. Both of these magnificent "Homes for the Aged" were erected through
the tireless efforts of the "Little Sisters."

BAYOr ST. JOHN.

Tlie small triangle, containing a beautiful fountain in terra cotta, on the
avenue, between Miro and Tonti Streets, is the Gayarre Place, so named for
Louisiana's illustrious historian.

At 2410 Esplanade Avenue, in a square of ground exquisitely laid out in
flowers and tropical palhis is the home of Hon. Paul Capdevielle, the

Present Mayor of New Orleans.

Tliis fine old mansion with its stately porticoes, broad galleries and spacious
surroundings, is a fine type of the later Creole style of architecture. It was
built in 18.57 by Pierre Soule. United States Senator and American Ambassador
to Spain. Mr. Soule occupied it from January to .Tune of that year. Mr.
Capdevielle. Avho sbsequently purchased the place, has greatly beautified it.
His home is the center of the culture and hospitality that made old New
Orleans distinctive among the cities of the South and of the Union. The home
is easily recognized by the beautiful fountain playing in the avenue that leads
up to the main entrance, and by tlie stately magnolia trees, twined with ivy.
which surround the garden on all sides. A little further on. between Crete avi\
Bell Streets, is a beautiful little garden plot called Capdevielle I'ark, in honor
of the Mayor.

The Greek Church of the Holy Trhiity is on a street known^ both as Dol-
honde and Dnrgenois, within view of '^■Esplanade Avenue. Services are n^t

held regularly. The ornaments on the altar were presented by the late Em-
press of Russia.

The Jockey Club is on Esplanade Avenue, near Bayou Bridge. It ivas a
private residence and occupies a whole square of ground on the lower side of
the street. It is one of the most attractive spots in New Orleans. The house
is of the French style of architecture and opens upon a beautiful terrace, m
one of the wings is a bowling alley. The mansion stands in the midst ot a
garden. On gala occasions these gardens used to be illuminated with Chinese
lanterns and electric lights, presenting a scene of enchanting beauty. Admis-
sion is by card from members.

In the rear, and a little to one side of the Jockey Club, are the Fair
Grounds. These contain a race course, and grandstand capable of seating
8,000 people. Horse racing takes place here annually, there being a winter
meeting of over 100 days, conducted by the Crescent City Jockey Club, followed
by a spring meeting of six days under the auspices of the New Louisiana Jockey
Club, in which the best horses and most famous jockeys participate. The

VIKW IN CITY PAKK.

Course was formerly called the Gentilly Race Course. During the season th&
cars run directly to the course, depositing passengers at the entrance. The race
track is esteemed one of the best and fastest in the United States. As the
name implies, the Fair Grounds Mere laid out and devoted for many years ta
the annual exposition of Louisiana industries in the form of a State Fair. For
some years, however, the State Fairs have been discontinued. The reunion of
United Confederate Veterans will be held at the Fair Grounds May 19, 1002.
The acceptance of the invitation to come to New Orleans necessitated the imme-
diate erection of an immense Auditorium, which will be located near the center
of the grounds, just beyond the grand stand. It will cost from $12,0fli0 to
$15,000, and will have a seating capacity of about 15,000, while the spaci'-u*^
grounds and other buildings will afford ample room for entertainment.

Atljoiuing tlie Jockey Club Grounds is the new St. Louis Cemetery. Some
of the tombs are very handsome.

On Bayou St. John, 300 yards from Esplanade, will be found ihe Soldiers'
Home, or Camp Nicholls, as it is sometimes called. It derives the latter ap-

Jiellation from Ex-GoYernor F. T. NichoUs, under wliose administrntiou it was
founded as a retreat for maimed and disabled Confederates. The place is
noted for tlie beauty of its gardens.

Crossing Bayou Bridge, it may interest the tourist to know that he is in
the immediate vicinity of the spot where Bienville effected his first lauding on
Louisiana soil, when he came across Lake Poutchartrain and down the Bayou
in 1718. It is not possible to identify the exact spot now. Some curious old
shipyards lie along the Bayou, one of which, at least, dates from Spanish days.

The Loiii.siana Boat Club and the Crescent Boat Club have quarters on the
bank, and hold an annual regatta here.

During^ the year 1904, a Countrj- Club House, to cost approximately
•115,000, is to be erected by the St. John Land Company on Bayou St.
John near the Esplanade Avenue Bridg-e.

The handsome oaks of Southern Park, a picnic resort, will be noticed
along the route.

LAKE — CITY PAKK.

Bayou St. John,

named for Bienville's patron saint, is one of the most picturesque and historic
spots in the city. It was on the banks of this bayou that Le Page du Pratz.
the first Louisiana historian, built his pretty villa. He came to New Orleans in
1718 to cast his fortune with the infant colony. It was on this Baj'ou that hi.s
life was miraculously saved by a beautiful Indian girl, who became devotedly
attached to his service and who gave him the thread of the wonderful traditions
and songs of Louisiana that he has so beautifully woven into fact and fiction.
As the colony grew, the most aristocratic families of the ancient colony liad
their summer villas on the Bayou St. John, and here and there, nestling amid
the tropical paln^s and foliage, one still catches a glimpse of these olden villas,
alas! falling into decay. The banks of the Bayou are fringed with palmettos
and plantain trees, and the tall "Spanish Dagger," whose beautiful white blos-
soms, rising in pyramidal clusters,' are the wonder and delight of the- tourist

i,2

in the early summer ami Inle spring. The Bayou is very mysterious and is
<:!rowded with a dense growth as it merges into the lake. It was in these sylvan
solitudes that the '•Voudoos" used to hold their bacchanalian festivals on the
night of St. John's Eve.

City Park.

The park was once a wooded plantation, and contains 210.00 acres, only a
portion of which, howiever, has been improved. The grove of live oaks are the
wonder and admiration of botanists and scientists. These live oaks are said
to be the finest in the world. The trees are draped in the ghostly gray Spanish
moss, to which allusion is so frequently made by Louisiana poets. The lake
was formed artificially by enlarging Bayou Sauvage, which formerly ran
through the park. Under one of the oak trees stands a tomb in saddest decay.
It is the la.st resting place of Louis Allard, a man of letters and a poet, who
liwnedall that tract of land extending from the Bayou St. .John to the Orleans
<'anal, and from the Metairie Road to the old toll-gate. The portion which is
<alled the "Lower City Park." was sold by Allard, previous to his death, to
John McDonogh, the millionaire miser-philanthropist, of old New Orleans. At
liis death, McDonogh left it by will to the cities of New Orleans and Baltimore;
the City of New Orleans acquired it in full ownership at the partition sale,
Tind decided to devote it to park purposes. Allard, who was then very poor, was

AXOTHKK VIKW OF THE LAKE — CITY PARK.

liermitted, by special agreement, after the mortgage sale to continue to live at
The place. He spent his declining days under his beloved oaks, dreaming of the
nast and reading his favorite authors. In compliance with his dying wish he
was buried in this quiet spot under his favorite oak. The tomb is in full view
-oming from the Metairie Road. Glance obliquely to the left and the legendary
1 aks on the

Famous Dueling Ground

of old New Orleans rise in solemn grandeur.

Their green boughs throw back the sunlight with all the brightness and
«'lasticity of everlasting youth, and the whispering leaves tell of a time, scarcely
tifty years remote, when tragedy and gayety walked side by side in New Or-
leans, and it was an every day occurrence to see under those very branches a
Tueeting of adversaries in mortal combat, with pistol, saber or shotgun, or
""colichemard."

(»3

A thousand storit-s are told of tlie bloody encounters which took piace in
\\\v early morning under the "Oaks." There was no compromise with honor in
those days; society did not permit it. With the advent of Napoleon's disbanded
1( Kions and noble "emigres" from Franco, tliere was a great renaissance in
duils, and fencing masters were kept busy teaching the '*jeunesse dore" in the
ancient "Salle de St. Philippe." Among the most famous masters were Marcel
1 ♦.I iiirhin; -who 'was- killed in a duel by another master, Bouneval, who was
wounded by the professional swordsman, Rejiiard; L'Alouette, who killed Shu-
bra, another professor; Thimeoourt, who killed the famous Italian fencing mas-
tor. Poulaga, and Gilbert Rosiere, called by his pupils '" 'Tit Rosiere," the most
popular of all the fencing masters who ever came to New Orleans. But the
most famous of all was Pepe Llula; of him the most wonderful stories were
toid. but the following will suffice:

It happened that New Orleans was all aflame with sympathy for the filibus-
ters who had made an unsuccessful attempt to free Cuba from the control of
Hi'ain. Pepe was an ardent Spanish partisan, and i.ssued a manifesto, chal-
lenging all the Cuban sympathizers. Many of them took up the glove. Pepe
met them, and, making u.se of a thrust for which he was famous— driving his

PATHWAY ALONC; THK LAKE —CITY PARK.

colichemard into the lung and giving it a vicious twist there — killed each of his
antagonists. The result was that after a while the Cubans refused to meet
him.

What a troop of ghostly stories come up under the "Oaksl" Every imagin-
able cause of quarrel was settled under these ancient trees. Some slight in-
fringement of ballroom etiquette, a quarrel with a rival lover, a difference of
opinion in politics, the last opera, the ability of the famous "falcon" to reach a
certain note, legal pomts, scientific questions — all came to a direct issue under

these "Oaks." It was at a famous ball at Mme. 's, in the Rue Royale,

that a gallant cavalier approached a beautitul belle as she was promenading.
The dance was given for charity's sake. The girl held a little book of "raffles"
in her hand. "Allow me, mademoiselle, to take some chances," asked the
cavalier. Before she could reply, her companion replied grimly: "The chances
ire all taken, sir." "I will meet you later," said the cavalier, under breath.
They met in the morning with broadswords under the oaks. An hour later the
gallant cavalier breathed his last, just on the spot where Louis Allard is buried.
A celebrated European scientist, who was visiting New Orleans, laughed at the

Mississippi River in tlie presence of a Creole, saying that it was nothing but
a tiny rill compared to the great rivers of Europe. "Sir," answered the Creole^
"I will never permit anyone to disparage the Mississippi River in my presence."
The result was a duel under the oaks at sunrise, and the scientist receiVed a
severe wound in his cheek. OhI there are legends enough and true stories,
too, of those who fought, and died in this spot, and of beautiful maidens
rushing between the combatants just as the fatal lunge wa,s given. There were
the famous series of duels with broadswords in the year 1840, when the fencing
masters themselves fought and killed one another, just to "show their art."
And there was the famous duel on horseback between a French cavalry oflScer
and a young Creole, when the Creole, by a peciiliar half-circle stroke which he
he had learned from his mnster, Pepe Llula, plunged his sword through th(>
French officer's body.

All these, and a thousand others, are the stories inseparably connected with
the "Oaks." The code was very strict. A gentleman could not fight anyone-
whom he could not ask to his house. Dueling is a thing of the long, dead pat<t
in New Orleans to-day. It does not matter much whether a man fights or not;
men have other ways of showing themselves gentlemen. But "Killed on the
Field of Honor" is a common enough legend in the old St. Louis cemeteries.

Leaving the ancient "Oaks" the tourist may see another very interesting;
section of "Old New Orleans" after it had spread beyond the Rampart Street
limits, by taking the "Bayou Road" cars, near the Grande Route St. John.

OI.D DUKLING OAKS— CITY PARK.

This line passes through the old street that was the fashionable drive of New
Orleans, in early days. The beautiful trees and gardens all along the Rues
Ursulines and Bayou Road show the intwest which the ancient Creoles took
in this "grand promenade."

On Bayou Road, between North Dorgenois and North Broad, is the beau-
tiful^ little church of St. Rose de Lima. The congregation is exclusively French.

*At the corner of North Tonti and Hospital Streets stands the Thorny Lafon
Home for the Aged and Infirm of the colored race. The site is that of the old
"St. Bernard's Home for Aged Colored Women," founded by the Sisterhood
of the Holy Family, in 1842.

At the corner of St. Philip and Galvez Street, is St. Joseph's Convent, for
the education of young ladies. The beautiful old grounds and quaint building
are deserving of a visit. Within the grounds is a handsome fac simile of the
famous Grotto of Lourdes. Thence the car passes through Ursulines and Bur-
gundy Street, curious even in its decay, to Canal Street.

A good view of this rear portion of New Orleans may also be had by taking
the Broad Street car, some fine morning, in Canal Street, and riding through-

old Dauphine Street, now, alas! also in decay, to Dumaine, Broad, Laharpe and
Gentilly Road. Quaint old Creole houses line the route, and occasionally one
comes across an entire square in the rue Dumaine of almost primitive Spani-h
architecture. The people in this rear section of the olden city are all French-
speaking, and, at times one comes across a family speaking nothing but the
Spanish of colonial New Orleans.

At the corner of Dumaine and Dauphine Streets is the old French Conrent
of "Les Dames du Sacre Coeur," or the Ladies of the Sacred Heart. It is a
French order, foimded a little over a century ago in France by Mme. Barat, for
the education and religious training of the daughters of the French nobility. At
the request of the "exclusive" old French Quarter, a branch of the order carae
and located in New Orleans. To have attended the .school of "Les Dames du
Sacre Coeur" is considered "tout ce qu'il y a de parfait" among the ancient
families. There is a magnificent old courtyard within the convent, and one is
immediately impressed with the dignity, refinement and culture of the nuns.
The handsome brick edifice in the rear of the Convent was erected some years,
ago by the Sisterhood at a cost of $20,000 as a free school for poor children..

The old French Churcli of St. Anne is in St. Philip Street, near N. Prieur-..
As in St. Rose de Lima, the congregation is exclusively French; indeed, one.
may go for squares and squares in this rear portion of New Orleans and heac-
nothing but French in all its original purity.

TOMB OF LOUIS ALLARD.

"the "French Benevolent Association" has its asylum on St. Ann Street, be-
tween Derbigny and North Roman. Returning by Bayou Road to Broad Street,
the car passes into the old French Street of "St. Pierre," or St. Peter famous as
the street in which the opera, drama and comedy, had birth in New Orleans.

At the corner of this street and Dorgenois will be seen a beautiful old-
fashioned building bearing the inscription, "Asile Thomy Lafon Pour Gargons
Orphelins," or the Thomy Lafon Asylum for Orphan Boys. Mr. Lafon pur-
chased and donated this building to the Sisters of the Holy Family as an or-
phanage for colored boys. The house is built with great brick
columns and broad galleries, after the manner of the ancient plantation homes.
It was formerly two-storied; but, after the purchase. Mr. Lafon added a third
story, which consists of one immense dormitory, containing fifteen or eighteen
windows and commanding a pleasant view of the entire grounds. One spacious
apartment has been fitted up as a chapel, and within is a marble tablet to the
memory of Mr. Lafon, the noted colored philanthropist of New Orleans. The
Sisterhood found in him the type of a noble Catholic gentleman and true bene-
factor. Mr. Lafon continued his great benefactions, donating to the Sisterhood
the money to erecte and establish a "Home for Aged Colored Men," adjoining
the ancient "St. Bernard's Home for Aged Colored Women" in Tonti and Hos-

pltal Streets. He put the latter home in perfect repair, renovating and enlarging
it on the same plan as the home for old men.

The colored people of New Orleans owe much to Thorny Lafon. No man
«ver did as much for the elevation of the race. At his death he left thousands
of dollars to charity, irrespective of race or creed. Conspicuous among his
charities was a bequest of some $30,000 for the establishment of a home, under
the auspices of the Sisters of the House of the Good Shepherd, for the reclaim-
ing of fallen colored women.

---^-^z

CHAPTER IX.

The Old French Parish of St. Bernard— Algiers.

Before leaviu;,- the lower section of the city and while its songs and stories
still linger in the mind the tourist will do well to visit the old French Parish
of St. Bernard, with which the "Vieux Carr6," in its families and histories is
inseparably connected, as also to cross over the river to Algiers, where Bien-
rille located the "Plantations of the King."

St. Bernard's Parish extends southeast of New Orleans, from the Barracks
to the English Turn, for a distance of twelve miles along the left bank of the
Mississippi River, and thence obliquely to the south, following Bayou Terre-
aux-Boeufs and Lake Lery till it touches the sea.

It was way back in 1Y78 that a colony was founded in this section by
Governor Bernardo Galvez. He called the spot New Galvez; but the colony
'insisted that the enl5re parish be called St. Bernard, after its founder's patron
«aint- Afterward, the Creoles nick-named it "Terre-aux Boeufs," or "Oxen
Land," because the colonists used oxen in working the soil. Even to this day
the village next to St. Bernard, as also the Bayou that skirts it, carry the
aame of Terre-aux-Boeufs.

Properly speaki.ig, St. Bernard cannot be classed among the rural par-
ishes of Louisiana; by its contiguity to New Orleans, many hold it as a sort
•of prolongation or suburb of the great metropolis, and even before the adroit
of electricity one could mount a horse or take a carriage, or even the bobtail
•car, and before breakfast have a pleasant stroll under the oaks of St. Bernard,
■where many of the wealthy residents of the city had their country homes.
Driving through th^. parish, along the river bank, one sees on all sides magnifi-
«3ut sites for parks and homes, and fine old colonial houses nestling among th«
trees.

"Saxenholm," is the ancient home of Colonel B. S. Story, who married
Mig% Jennie Washington, great-great-grand-daughter of Colonel Lawrencd
"Washington, the older half-brother of the illustrious "Father of the Country."
iN'o home in the entire South is more interesting than this old mansion, which
is a type of Louisiana's earliest colonial homes. The house is upward of one
hundred and twenty-five years old, and is one of the most magnificently fur-
nished in the South; grand old pieces of black carved oak, rarely seen in these
days; ancient tapestries and paintings; and, above all, relics innumerable of our
•oivn Washington, Martha Washington and Nellie Custis, make it a place of
historic interest. Many of the most valuable souvenirs and relics at Mount
A'emon have been furnished by Mr.s. Story.

A mile northwest of Saxenholm is an old ruined brick pile, around which
clings the wildest and most romantic story in Louisiana. It was the home of
no less a person than Alexandra Petrovitz, the morganatic wife of the Czaro-
■witz, Alexis Petrowitz, who married her without the consent of his royal father
In 1722. The stem, uncompromising Russia of that day banished her from Its
1>orders, and forced her to take passage on a German emigrant vessel, bound
.for John Law's concession in the Arkansas District. The fact that the dis-
iinguished and unfortunate lady was really on this vessel is vouched for by
"^'oltaii-e in his "History of the French Revolution." The vessel, tossed by
^j^inds and storms, finally made its way to Louisiana and the emigrants landed

in St Charles Parish just above New Orleans, on a strip of land that is called
"The German Coast." Torn to the heart by the brutal treatment that she
had received, the Russian Princess sought a home far from the settlement at
New Orleans, and had this old brick pile erected in the fastnesses of pnmitire
St Bernard's Parish. It was here that the Chevalier d'Aubant, who had never
forgotten the beautiful Princess who had won his heart at the royal festivities
in St Petersburg years before, found her at last. He had sailed the world over
trying to locate her, after hearing of the brutal treatment that she had received
from the monarch whom she loved. Determined to be near her to watch over
and protect her, if he could not marry her, the Chevalier d'Aubant took up
his residence in the New Orleans colony, and it was here that many years after
the death of Alexis Petrowitz, he at length persuaded her to forget the past
and marry him. She returned with him to Paris, and afterward accompanied
him to the He de Bourbon, when he was sent into banishment. After hit
death she returned to this old spot, where she died in great poverty and miserj.
She was buried near the ruins.

TYPICAL PLANTATION HOME.

It is the pride and glory of the ancient Parish of St. Bernard that It
was the

Cradle of the Sugar Industry.

It was on the old plantation home of Don Antonio Mendes, now known as the
Rgand Place, that the historic word "Qa Granule" (it granulates) were heard
for the first time as in 1791 a small group of planters interested in Don An-
tonio's experiments gathered arouud an old wooden mill, while Morin, a sugar-
maker from Cuba, whose services Mendes had secured, sought to teach them
the fabrication of sugar from the cane. This was the first sugar ever made
in Louisiana. Mendes also succeeded in refining sugar; at a dinner given to
the Spanish authorities he presented them with several loafs of the sugar he
had refined. At dessert Don Rendon, the Spanish Intendant, toasted the sugar

and held it up to the assembled guests as a "Louisiana Product." Mendes con-
tinued the culture of cane, but on a very small scale. In 1794 he sold his plant
to another planter named Etienne de Bore, T\'ho succeeded in producing a crop
that was the death blow to the ancient indigo industry of Louisiana, and placed
sugar forever at the head of its great staples. But the Mendes family clung to
the fact that Don Antonio had produced the first sugar, and it is pathetically
told how on her dying bed his daughter repeated again and again till her breath
failed. "Dire que c'est mon pere qui a ffiit le premier sucre dans la Louisiane."
(Say that it was my father who made the first sugar in Louisiana.) Near by
this liistoric site is tl;e ancient estate of Mr. Joseph Coiron, now known as the
Millandon and Lesseps Plantations. In 1818 Mr. Coiron put up on this site
the first steam engine ever used to grind sugar cane. Two years later he in-
troduced the first red ribbon cane from Georgiga and used it instead of the ten-
der Creole variety. These improvements operated mo.st advantageously to the
success of the industry and Coiron's name lives, in the history of sugar in this
section. The fine plantations of Marcel Ducros, Story, Claverie and Reggio
follow. It M-as on the Reggio place that a Spaniard named Solis. who then
owne'l all this tract, essayed in 1785 to manufacture sugar from the cane and
continued his operations until 1790, using a little wooden mill that he had

LAFITT]<; S TKYSTING Pl^ACK — ALONG BAKA TAKIA BA\ .

brought from Cuba. He succeeded only in making syrup and an indifferent
quality of rum called "tafia."

Large tracts of land along this route are owned now by an English syndi-
cate, which has erected an immense plant on the "Kenilworth" estate.

The New Orleans Railway Compan}' has also bought up extensive
tracts, comprising ten or twelve of the old historic plantations, running
from Port Chalmette to the verge almost of the St. Bernard and Orleans
Parish lines, for the purpose of establishing terminal accomodations for
other roads.

The most romantic memories of St. Bernard are connected with stories of

Lafitte and His Barataria Pirates.

The word "Barataria" is an adaptation of a curious old Creole word,
"Barateur," or "Barato." signifying "cheap," for the smuggled goods, rare and
beautiful that were sold by the pirates were "very cheap." It has already
been told how Lafitte had his famous smithy in Bourbon and St. Philip Street.
But he had his trysting place on the Island of Grande Terre, in Barataria Bay.

His smugglers were composed of desperate men of all nations, contrabands,
pirates and what not. They were the "wild men of the Spanish Main," and it
was said that they carried the black flag and attacked vessels of all nations
and did not hestitate to make their prisoners "walk the plank," that terror of
old pirate stories of the deep. "Nez Coupe," so called because his nose was cut
off, and who lived at Grande Terre many years after the pirates ceased their
depredations, used to declare that the beautiful daughter of Aaron Burr, who
was supposed to have been lost at sea, was made "to walk the plank"
by command of Lafitte. Lafitte used to deny that he was a pirate and dignified
his calling by the name of "privateer." Whenever he was apprehended he said
that he and his men were cruising with the permission of France. He carried
the flag of the Republic of Carthagena, a province of New Grenada, that
had rebelled against Spain, and said that he attacked only the ves-
sels of Spain, which was then at war with Carthagena and
i''rance. "Nez CoupS" used to tell how one of the boldest of Lafitte's men
laughed in the face of his commander one day -at the mere idea of being a
"privateer," and said that he was "a pirate and was proud of it." Lafitte drew
his pistol and shot him through the heart in the presence of his companions.
A tradition of the parish is that when Claiborne, the first Americau Governor,

A TOUCH OF .SOUTHEKX JUNGLi:.

indicted the Baratarians and arrested the two brothers, Jean and Pierre Lafitte,
at their smithy and lodged them in the "calaboose," without the privilege of
bail, the brothers engaged at a fee of twenty thousand dollars each the services
of the celebrated lawyers, Edward R. Livingston and John R. Grymes,
the most distinguished members of the bar of Louisiana. Of course,
with such advocates, the Lafittes were acquitted; the fee was instantly paid,
and John Lafitte, after giving warning to his men, invited Messrs. Livingston
and Grymes to spend a week with him at Barataria and see for themselves if
the verdict were not just. Mr. Livingston politely declined, hut Mr. Grymes
accepted. It was impossible to discover a trace of smuggled goods or illicit
trade. Lafitte entertained him royally, but it is also told that before Mr.
Grymes had finished accepting his hospitality or that of Lafitte's "planter
friends" along the coast, that he lost every "picayune" of his immense fee
playing cards.

A pleasant day may be spent by taking the

Shell Beach Railroad,

at the head of Elysian Fields Street, and enjoying the run of an hour and a
half down to the Gulf. The trip takes the tourist through beautiful plantations,
a touch of southern jungle, and finally brings one out on the shelving, shelly
beach, with the gray waters of the Gulf of Mexico lashing and lapping at one's
feet.

At the terminus of the Shell Beach Road is the old town of Proctorvillc,
which was destroyed by a storm in ISGO. It was then the terminus of the
ancient Mexican Gulf Road, which has been replaced by the Shell Beach.

The little village of Ste. Croix, situated on both sides of Bayou Terre-aux-
Boeufs, is very picturesque. The village is still the property of Mme. La Com-
tesse de Livaudais du Sivan de la Croix, who belongs to one of the most dis-
tinguished families of France and who now resides in Paris.

The village came down to her as an inheritance from her ancestors, who
came as exiles to Louisiana, and her interest in the sijmple "fisher folk" who in-
habit it, and whom she, calls "her children," is very pretty. She also owns a
large plantation extending miles along the bayou, and has lately given, at a
central point on her plantation, a beautiful site for the erection of a church, and
school, on the exact spot where died, in 1814, M. le Compte de Livaudais de la
Croix.

The quaint old church on Lake Lery, which runs through the settlement, is
also worth a visit. This church was erected in 1778 by Galvez. It contains
in its ancient register the baptismal certificates of General P. G. T. Beauregard,
and his father and mother; of Mendes, Coiron, Livaudais and other found-
ers of St. Bernard's Parish.

Algiers

is located on the right banks of the river and is best seen by taking the ferry
at the foot of Canal Street or Esplanade Avenue. Algiers has a population of
about 13,000. The principal points along the river front are the dry dockf?, of
which there are three. There are several coal yards along the river, at one of
which is a modern ii-on and steel coal elevator, with a bucket capable of lifting
over a ton of coal at a time. In the lower part of the town is located the
great plant of the Southern Pacific Railroad and Steamship Company. Its ex-
tensive system of wharves, over 2,500 feet long, all covered with substan-
tial roof, furnish a landing for the Company's fleet of magnificent steamers
running to New York and Havana. Just back of these is a series of buildings —
workshops, foundries, storehouses, etc. The machinery plant is so complete
that a perfect locomotive can be turned out. The Company builds freight cars
here, and makes all necessary repairs to passenger and freight cars. When
all departments are at work it is estimated that as many as 1,500 men are
employed there at one time.

Algiers has its own ice and electric plant.

Just below the Southern Pacific landing is situated the New Naval Station,
with its immense floating dry dock, which is among the largest of its kind in the
world.

CHAPTER X.

Peculiar 5treet Scenes — Vendors — Customs — The

'^Creoles."

Having completed the circuit of the old French section of New Orleans
before leading the visitor through the ever changing panorama of Canal Street,
and across into the "American Quarter," attention is called to peculiar street
pictures that are nowhere else to be seen except in this unique old city.

A vivid and charisteristic street life lends animation to the curious thor-
oughfare.

Of a morning the French Quarter is alive with the cries of the vendors,
'•Belle Galas! Tout chauds! tout chauds! "Belle Fromage," "Belle Chaurice,"
indicating, first, a species of coffee cake called calas, which are "hot! hot!" and
again "Cream cheese," and still again, a species of sausage very much liked by
thG children and called by the old Creole negresses, "Chaurice." Of an even-
ing the old women pass with their baskets of "Comfitures Coco," and "Pra-
lines," "Pistaches," "Pacanes," etc. Jackson and Washington Squares, where

the children gather for an airing, are great resorts for these old vendors. A
most welcome cry in the heat of summer is to hear "Belle des FiguesJ Belle dea
Figues!" (Beautiful figs! Beautiful figs!")

Everything sold by these old negresses is either

**Belle" or **Bon,"

("Beautiful" or "Good.") and to their credit, be it said, one can always rely
upon their veracity.

The fruit and vegetable vendors are for the most part Italian emigrant men
and women. Negresses, bearing vegetables in large, shallow baskets poised upon
their heads, also go by, calling their wares "fresh and fine;" many housekeepers
purchase their supplies from these itinerant vendors, the prices being exceedingly
small, and usually scaled with the "Picayune" as a unit.

A "Picayune" is equivalent to five cents, and is a corruption of the Spanish
term "Picayon," applied to a coin in use in colonial days.

'belle galas ! TOUT CHArCS I

TEsT-A-FEEXY, MAD.AJME

The milk carts are strictly indigenous. They are formed of a tall, greed
box, set between high wheels, aiid are driven almost invariably by Gascons.
The two large, bright, brass-bound metal cans that ornament the front of th»
wagon compel the driver to stand up much of the time when driving, in order-
to see clearly the road before him. The milkman carries a bell, which he ringa
before the gates of patrons.

Every retail grocer or street vendor or bakerman or cake-woman who sell»
in the old French Quarter is expected to give

"Lagniappe.'

"Lagniappe" is a Spanish word, and in this connection means a certaia
bonus in kind, that is given with every purchase. But the children always ex-
pect "lagniappe candy" or "cake" or "fruit." Some years ago an effort was
made by certain progressive shopkeepers to abolish "lagniappe." There was at
hue and cry and the old custom remained. It is a sweet and gi-acious one that
the people like, and dealers Avho seek to ignore it soon find to their cost that

tlieir sales are less. "Quartie" is another helpful custom for the poor, by means
of which a nickel or five cents is divided, and a purchase made half of one kind
and half of another; for instance, half sugar and half coffee, etc. Negroes,
^especially, like "quartie." Some of them buy half bread (and they get a half
joaf) and half coffee, and then ask for "lagniappe" sugar. So what is there
lacking for the morning meal? "Quartie" and "lagniappe" help many an humble
home, for the grocer is expected to give as "lagniappe," whatever is asked for,
whether flour, salt, black pepper, spice, etc. In the neighborhood of the French
Market, and down in the Faubourg Marigny, shopkeepers still adhere to the
customs of the French merchants of a hundred years ago, and arrange their
wares along the banquette to attract the attention of the passers-by.

"Bon Marclie, Madame, Bon Marche!" they cry, just as in the olden days,
and thrust their goods into your face, especially in the French Market vicinity,
while the dark Italian emigrants, apt imitators, spread out their little hoard
of bananas, potatoes and cabbages upon rough sacks on the banquette, all along
the rues Hospital and Ursulines, and sing out in broken English, "Freshee
banana, Madamel Cheapee! Madame, five centee. Madame!" You meet a
•curion.. uiu peddler with a little wagon on wheels. He is one of the last of the
famous old "Marchand Rabais," for which the quarter was noted in the days

THE KABAIS MAN.

THE BOTTLE MAN.

gone by. Each "marchand" had his own list of regular customers, and what
you could not get in the way of small fancy trimmings in the big stores up-
town, you were sure to find in his "little store on wheels." But the "Marchand
■Rabais," as a distinct business, is passing out of the life of the Faubourg, and
the faces of the few you meet are very sad and pathetic.

"Tin-a-feexy, Madame, tin-arfeexy!" and you turn to see a curious old man
carrying a lighted furnace and a soldering iron. He is the "tin-a-feexy" man,
and yovi catch an idea of his occupation, as some housekeeper rushes breath-
lessly to the door with a broken pot or tin vessel to be mended. The old man
«ets down his furnace, arranges his little workshop and begins to ply his trade.
And here is the ".shaving cake man," with a huge tin box strapped over his
bent shoulders. He carries in his hand a small steel triangle, which he con-
stantly strikes with a steel bar. All the "Carre" then knows that the shaving
cake man is near, and tlie children beg for a "Picayune" to purchase the queer
little rolls of cakes that he sells and which are very much like shavings.

The "bottle man" passes, buying up all the old wine bottles, or exchanging
bits of trimming for them, etc. A peculiar little whistle breaks on the stillness;
and a man stops his little "push cart" at the corner. He is the "ring man,"
the delight of every child in the quarter; in another instant from almost every

THE MILK MAN.

house ill the square, little tots are rushing breathlessly toward the quaint little
"push store," bottle in hand, to exchange for some gaudy brass trinket, toy or
flag, and then the '"ring man" goes on his way to the next corner and childhood

OLD PKALINE WOMAN.

LA BONNE VIELLE GARDIENNE.

in that square is made happy. Another unique character is the "clothes pole
mau," ■ Of an evening, especially in summer, the organ-grinder goes his rounds.
The organ-grinder is generally an Italian or negro. He is the last relic of min-

Btrelsy, and the old "Carr6" has a tender place in its heart for him. He Btop»
at every corner and plays a tune or two, while the children gaily dance on the
sidewalks. He makes many a nickel as he continues his rounds till far into the
evening.

The Flower Girls and Praline Women,

are generally to be found in the vicinity of Canal Street. The old "praliniere"
looks very quaint with guinea blue dress and bandana "tignon," as she shows
the dainty stock of pink and M'hite pecan "pralines." She has others in a bas-
ket tucked away in a cozy corner formed by two show windows. Neither the
flower women nor the pralini&res cry their wares, but sit patiently waiting for

Or.D SPANISH COUKTYAKD — CHAKTKKS NKAK CANAL.

customers, meantime brushing the flies away with palmetto fans or mops .of
brown paper. In the "Vieux Carre," you see "Ma Belle Creole,"
every morn ng going to earlj' mass, at the Cathedral, and of an
evening dancing her pretty feet off ; t tl e gracious old lime
"soirees," so beautiful, ho exclusively Creole, and where the olden "eau sucr6,"
or "orangeade," and "orgeat," are often the only refre;hments
served, as in the parties of the old regime. Here Mon-

sieur must have his good "French wine" for dinner, and his morning cup of
"caf^ noir," and dining well is as much a dut}' for him as going to church.
Here are the old Creole restaurants, where Creole viands are a specialtj'.
Here the brazier and the candlestick are still household appointments; old
brass knockers are still found on the doors and the keys and locks are big
enough for a Cathedral. There the shopman as of old encases his windows

with almost impregnable shutters and bars. And sweetest of all, the daily,
familiar sights of the "Viex Carre," is the good old mammy, "la bonne
vielle gardienne." taking the children for an airing of an evening, and
crooning to them, as thej' fall asleep in her arms, on the granite steps of
Jackson Square, the familiar old songs which have been handed down by
the Creole nurses to the children from generation to generation.

It is a custom in New Orleans to announce deaths by printing a notice on a
double sheet of paper, bordered with black, and to nail these on telegraph polei
in the more frequented parts of the town. This practice is confined to the
city. It is also a custom to drape the door or gate of the stricken household
with crepe, white for the young dead, black for the elderly, and to fasten her*
also one of the printed notices.

Gentlemen always lift their hats and remain uncovered while a funeral
goes by, as a mark of respect for the dead. And this gracious custom is ob-
served in the most crowded marts in the heart of the business day. Catholics
invariably lift their hats when passing a church of their faith, and the •strange
will observe this done even in the street cars.

DEATH XO TICKS.

Creole.

Everything "that is good" in New Orleans is "Creole." The highest prais*
that can be bestowed upon any article for sale along the streets and in the
country is to declare that it is "Creole." Hence in trade one hears continually
the application, "Creole chickens," "Creole eggs," "Creole ponies," "Creole veg-
etables," etc. The term is used to distinguish the commercial produce of
New Orleans and of Louisiana Parishes as infinitely superior to those brought
in from the North and West.

One hears, too, the term, "Creole negroes," but it must be remembered
always that this is a fine distinction, meaning the blacks and colored people
that are Louisiana bred and born and French-speaking as distinguished from
the negroes of other States. "Creole" means white, though, as already seen^

it I)as been given many sliades of signification — shades wliich have been taken
up by ignorant scribblers and gradually accepted by many Northerners as mean-
ing Louisianians of mixed blood. Nothing is more erroneous. The term "Creole,*'
according to such standards as Webster and Worcester, signifies "a native of
Spanish America or the West Indies, descended from European ancestors."
There never was a nobler or more pure-blooded race than the Creoles of Lou-
isiana, who are proud of their descent from the best families of France and
Spain, and who applied to themselves the term "Creole" to distinguish the "old
families" of the State from the families of emigrants of other nationalities.

It is very difficult for the stranger to gain access to the ancient Creole
homes; he must come with letters of "introduction," or be introduced by a native
"to the manor born." And then, as Marion Crawford said when he visited New
Orleans: "You will find in little old French houses old-fashioned and tumbling
in ruins — houses that must have been built in the last century, with their long
hallways opening upon queer, little courtyards, and all suggesting another age
and civilization — a people the most charming and cultured that I have ever met,
with all the grace and dignity of manners and the equal in birth and bearing of
the most distinguished in European centers."

With this beautiful and true tribute from one who knew whereof he spoke,
the Guide will lead the tourist from the French Quarter into the brilliant light
9f Canal Street and the "Uptown Section."

r-f^i

CHAPTER XI.

Canal Street.

Canal Street is the main, central throughfare of New Orleans, the line of
demarkation between the French and American sections. It is the most ancient
landmark in the city, for it was the point marked out by Bienville as the ex-
treme southern limits of the metropolis which he founded.

In old times a deep "foss6" ran through the street, but when the town
spread beyond the limits of the "Yieux Carre." this canal or ditch was filled
op, and the "esplanade" or "neutral ground" along which so many car lines now
center, was raised. The street bisects the city from the river northwest to
the New Basin Canal. It is 170 feet wide, and is beautifully paved with asphalt
throughout a great portion of its length.

Canal Street is, indeed, one of the most characteristic streets in the world.
It divides New Orleans into two separate and distinct phases of life, two epochs
of history, two styles of architecture, two modes of thought and two distinct
forms of civilization.

It is the principal business thoroughfare of the city for a distance of about
twelve squares, and thence becomes one of the handsomest residence streets
and a delightful drive for both sections.

It is the common ground on which "Creoles" and "Americans" meet to
shop, to promenade, to see the grand civic and carnival parades, and often as
not, when questions affecting the vital interests of the community at large
agitate the city, to gather "en masse" and express their opinions as citizens of
one commonwealth.

A majority of the fine retail stores are on the lower side of the street. This
side is a favorite promenade, and, on a simshiny day. is usually crowded with
well-dressed people. In Carnival time tlie street is almost impassable.

One cannnot walk along Canal Street without being impressed with the
peculiar cosmopolitan character of the New Orleans of to-day. It is a fascinat-
ing study with its thousands of faces, for even the faces of a great city, and
the composite faces of its floating population grow familiar in time to the
stranger who tarries awhile; the jostle of the people, the beautiful street man-

ners of our public, the courtesy, the good humor especially in Carnival times,
when'the crush is so great, the brilliant dressing of the women, the everlasting
blare of music, the constant processions and celebrations, the peddlers, the
loafers, the vendors of roasted chestnuts and peanuts, the flower women, the
pralinieres, the ginger-bread sellers, the wheezing hand-organs, all make op a
scene to be nowhere found in this American Continent except in this delightful
old French city.

From Canal Street you become acquainted with the city; you learn the
names of the old streets, the haunts of the earnest working folks who give life
and strength to the town; you find out where the best "Macaroni t I'ltalienne"
is made, where you can eat the finest "Creole courtbouillon" or the best "ome-
lette souffl6;" you learn the road to rose gardens and orange groves, and return
to find yourself in the heart of an old town with a street more beautiful, more
picturesque than any other of this Ameilcan Union — a street whose great stores
resemble the famous "Bon Marche" or "Louvre" of Paris, whose counters
and shelves teem with the finest imported goods, laces and silks and Parisian
novelties, directly imported, and which may be purchased cheaper here than in
New York or any other Northern city.

Such is our great boulevard. From "Liberty Place" to Baronne Street, th«
crowd is continuous, and the varied and cosmopolitan street life lends a charm
that makes this street one of the most remarkable places in the Continent.

The celebrated Levees, with their vast stores of cotton, sugar and other
products, lie at the head of Canal Street, and there is the landing for the great
coast steamboats laden with rice from the golden fields of Louisiana. Near
this spot was situated in Spanish days St. Louis Fort, the guns of which com:
manded the approach to the river. All traces have long since disappeared.

The Algiers Feri-y House is the small ornate wooden building that stands
«n the river bank. At this point the river is about 2,000 feet wide. The ferries
cross and recross at short intervals. The fare is five cents each way. The fer-
ry-house contains also the Harbor Police Station. The visitor will notice near-
by the huge sugar refineries, that run day and night during the sugar season.

A bright bit of green grass in the small triangular square' at the intersection
of Canal, North Peters and Tchoupitoulas Streets, upon which rises a granits
shaft, attracts attention. This is

Liberty Place,

which has been aptly called the "Bunker Hill of New Orleans," for it was here
that, on September 14, 1874, a battle was fought between the armed citizens of
this glorious commonwealth and the Metropolitan Police, under command of
the Radical Government, which eventually led to the downfall of "carpet-
bagism" and ".scalawagism" in Louisiana, and the freedom of the State from
their corrupt administration. The causes which led up to the battle are traced
to the hordes of penniless adventurers who swooped down upon Louisiana like
flocks of hungry wolves immediately after the close of the Civil War. They
were called "carpet-baggers," and the term "scalawag" was applied to those
of the native population who went over to them. These two disreputable ele-
ments were perpetuated in olHce by a "Returning Board," which scrutinized the
election returns nnd threw out sufficient votes to accomplish their nefarious
purpose. In 1873 the State elections actually resulted in the election of John
MeBnery, but the Returning Board secured the inauguration of W. P. Kellogg,
a representative carpet-bagger. McEnery went to Washington to appeal to
Congress to recognize his rights and the Government de jure was represented
in New Orleans by Lieutenant Governor D. B. Penn, lately deceased. Matters
remained in this state till August 31, when the registration began for the Presi-
dential election of the following November. Every impediment was thrown in
the way of the white voters to deter them from taking advantage of their privi-
leges. Appeal was made to Governor Kellogg for equal share in the election
supervision and a curt refusal followed. It was clear that the citizens would
have little or no voice in the election. In addition to these grievances, the
conduct of the Metropolitan Police, numbering 800 men, and the uniformed and
well-armed colored militia numbering 3,000, had become unbearable. The
Metropolitans were armed with modern rifles and supplied with artillery. They
were under command of General Badger, and the military under command of

the Ex-Coafederate General James Longstreet. The conduct of the police in
making unwarranted arrests, lieaping abuse upon reputable citizens and break-
ing into houses and searching for arms, was resented by the citizens, who or-
ganized under the name of the "White League" for the protection of life and
property and the reorganization of the State Government. The gallant Gen^
eral Fred N. Ogden was at the head of the White League. The League had
decided upon no definite plan of resistance, when the issue was precipitated by
an act of outrageous tyranny on the part of the Kellogg Government. As a
result, on September 14, the citizens determined to make a brave stroke for
the assertion of their constitutional rights. Governor Penn issued a proclama-
tion declaring the existence of the McEnery Government, and appointing Gen-
eral Ogden to the command of the troops. A deputation was sent to Kel-

MONUMENT IX LIBERTY PLACE.

logg at the State House (now the Hotel Royal) demanding his immediate ab-
dication. The committee was met by a member of the staff, who informed it
that no communication whatsoever would be received from the citizens. It had
become known that a cargo of arms consigned to private parties in New Or-
leans would arrive on the morning of the 14th of September; Kellogg- sent a
detachment of Metropolitans, who forbade the removal of the cargo. That
morning the Picayune published an address to the citizens, signed by leading
men, calling upon friends of Louisiana and of good, pure government to meet at
Clay Statue (then in Canal Street) at 11 o'clock. The result of this meeting
was the sending of the Committee to Kellogg to demand his abdication. Ou
its return the meeting dissolved like magic, and in a few minutes a large organ-
ized force, the "White League," assembled, and, throwing up barricades In
Poydras Street, the line of men formed extending from the river to Carondelet

Street. Meauwhile the enemy Avas not idle. General Badger had formed a forces
of 200 Metropolitan Police on the north side of the Customhouse with one piece
of artillery. On the south side was General Badger himself, the left wing of the
forces, and four cannon. Badger opened fire on the citizen forces, the Metropol-
itans marched out to the Leree and confronted the citizens, and were immedi-
ately charged by the White League. General Badger fell severely wounded,
and Longstreet A-ainly endeavored to rally the retreating Metropolitans. But
they fled in disorder, taking refuge in the Customhouse and the Supreme Court,
The League remained in position till the next day and then marched and took
possession of the State House in Royal Street, whence Kellogg had fled, taking
refuge in the Customhouse, with his negro troops during the night. On the
morning of the 15tli an immense concourse of citizens met Governor McEnery,
who had opportunely returned, and marching from Lee Place to the State
House, the rightful administration was inaugurated. A week later Governor
McEnery was compelled to yield to the Federal forces, which had hastened to
New Orleans in response to the telegram of Kellogg asking for troops. He
was re-established in power at the point of the bayonet, but the Republican
power in the State was permanently broken. At the following election Gov-
ernor P. T. Nicholls was chosen Governor of Louisiana and the
Democrats for the first time since the war obtained a majority
in the Lower House of Congress. The Returning Board was abol-
ished and Louisiana was again free. The monument at the foot of Canal
Street was erected iu 1891, and the spot called Liberty Place. The names of

MAKBLE HALL — CUSTOMHOUSE.

the citizen heroes who fell are inscribed on the monument. Each anniversary
the place is decorated with flowers by a grateful people.

The Fruit Exchange is at the corner of Canal and Tchoupitoulas Streets.
The long, low building just beyond the square is the passenger station of the
Louisville and Nashville Railroad.

The huge granite building which fronts on Canal Street and occupies a
whole square between North Peters and Decatur Streets, is the

Customhouse.

It occupies a portion of the site of Bienville's "country house." In old Creole-
days a small wooden customhouse occupied the corner toward the Levee. It
then stood on the river bank just inside of the country road. Constant addi-

* -::%^

•<

tiwns to the soil liave oxteudod the biiUiiie and luisliod Ihe mighty stream fur-
ther to tlie southeast. After the great tire of 17SS a larger building was
-erected by Governor Miro, which covered a great portion of the present site.
This ancient "Aduana," as the Spanish called it, did duty for many, many
years, till the growing needs of New Orleans demanded a new one. The pres-
ent building was begun in 1848. The material is granite and the architecture
•is modified Egyptian. Over .$4,000,000 have been expended on it, and it is not
yet entirely completed. In 1874 it was the headquarters of the Metropolitan
Police, who were here besieged by the citizen '"White League." The magniti-
ccnt entrance staircase of white marble is an imitation of that of the famous
■Castle of Kenilworth. On the second floor is the "Marble Hall," each of the
fourteen marble Corinthian pillars of which cost ?23,000. It is said to be the
finest business hall in the world. The United States courtrooms are on the
second floor. Those of the United States District Court were used during the
<;"ivil War as a prison for captured Confederate soldiers. The visitor should
not fail to see the memorial to Bienville over one of the entrances to the
'Marble Hall." This is the only memorial in the United States to the founder
of New Orleans. The cornerstone of the Customho.se was laid in 1847 by
Henry Clay. In erecting the building great diflBculty was experienced in making
the foundations secure. They were made of layers of cypress timber and con-
crete.

Exchange Alley, full of queer, old-fashioned houses, is in this section of
Canal Street, just between Royal and Chartres on the north side. It extends
from Canal Street back to St. Louis, where it terminates immediately in front
)E the now disused main entrance to the Hotel Royal. At the comer of Ex-
change Alley and Customhouse Street is an ancient mansion with a belyidere
»f wrought iron on the roof. It is often called

The Napoleon House,

and is so designated, because it was erected by Mr. Nicholas Girod, as a
residence for the Emperor Napoleon. Mr. Girod was the Mayor of New Orleans
in 1814. He was an ardent admirer of Napoleon Bonaparte, and engaged
; in a plot with a number of enthusiastic Frenchmen to liberate the Emperor
from his confinement in St. Helena. The conspirators built a wonderfully fast
clipper yacht, and called it the "Seraphiue." Their plan was to bring the yacht
near the island some dark night and spirit the Emperor aboard. They were
. going to surprise the garrison, overpower it, and letting the emperor down by
means of a chair into the yacht, sail away and bring the hero of Austerlitz to
New Orleans. They depended upon the marvelous sailing qualities of the little
ship to enable them to distance all pursuit. There is every reason to believe
that their plan was directed and approved by the captive of Longwood, and
might have succeeded had not the Emperor's death prevented its consumma-
tion. Mr. Girod intended to present this house to the Emperor on his arrival
in New Orleans. He subsequently occupied it himself. The Napoleon House
vi'as recently sold,, and it is probable that before the close of 1904, the his-
toric edifice will be demolished to make way for a modern office buiklinpr.

All along Canal Street in this business section are a number of hand-
some buildings, the majority being great dry goods emporiums, where
the most beautiful effects are offered for sale, rivalling Paris and London, as
far as native hand-work is concerned. The show windows are unfailingly at-
tractive. Lady visitors will find every article that they may need in these
stores, from a package of hairpins, needle and thread, to the most beautiful
silk lace and millinery importations.

Clay Statue, which was for so many years a landmark to visitors, stood
9t the intersection of Canal, St. Charles and Royal Streets. It was
removed to the center of Lafayette Square in Camp Street, owing to the neces-
sity that arose for protecting life by a better arrangement of the network of
railway tracks that traverse Canal Street.

The Morris Building, at the corner of Camp and Canal, was one of the
arst of the modern oflSce buildings to be erected in New Orleans. It contains
the offices of the New Orleans Clearing House.

The handsome new building corner of Canal and Chartres street is known
as the "Godchaux Building,"

Bctweoii Koj-al and Bourbon, on the downtown side of the street, are the
Tonro Buildings. They were built in the second quarter of the last century and
formed part of the estate of the celebrated philanthropist, Judah P. Touro.

The Boston Club,

the oldest institution of its kind in New Orleans, occupies the building at No.
S24 Canal, formerly owned by Dr. W. Newton Mercer. The club was organized
in 1834 and named in honor of an old-fashioned game of cards erstwhile very
popular among the solid business men of the community. During the Civil
War some of the members inciu'red the animosity of General B. P. Butler, and
his provost marshal seized its quarters and disbanded the organization. It was
reorganized in 18G7. It has entertained many distinguished guests, among them
General Ulysses S. Grant. Jefferson Davis, and among its presidents was
General Dick Taylor, a distinguished Confederate general and son of President
Zachary Taylor.

The Chess, Checkers and Whist Club occupies a handsome four-story
building at the corner of Canal and Baronne Streets. The entrance is on
Baronne Street. It was organized in 1880. and among the celebrities who have
played the king of games within its hospitable walls may be mentioned Captain
Mackenzie, iSteinitz, Zukertort, Lasker and Pillsbury.

Between Dauphine and Burgundy streets is the Grand Opera House, for-
merly known as the Varieties Theatre. It was opened about 1871 by the late
Lawrence Barrett. Barrett remained in char§;e of the theatre for a number of
j^ears. appearing for the first time ia that classical repertoire which he after-
ward made famous. It is a famous old playhouse, and many a name immortal
in dramatic literature has appeared on the bill boards in front of it. The stair-
case, which occupies a space of about 100 feet, is one of the most
beautiful in any American theatre. The house belongs to La Vari6t6
Association. It is now a popular-priced theatre. The Pickwick
Club is located in a handsome three-storied structure of light-colored
brick and stone on the upper side of Canal Street, between Dryades and Ram-
part. To this home the club removed in 1806. This club dates from 1857. Its
first president was General A. H. Gladden, of South Carolina, a veteran of the
Mexican War, who fell at Shiloh while in command of the First Confederate
Regulars.

At Basin and Canal Streets is the Spanish Fort Railroad Depot.

The New Orleans branch of the famous organization known throughout
the United States as "The Elks" has its "home" at 121 South Basin Street,
within sight of Canal Street, and the Square in front has been called "Elks
Place," in honor of the order.

On Canal, between Villere and Robertson, stands the

Richardson flemorial

Medical School, built in 1894. and presented to the Tulane University by Mrs.
Ida Slocomb Richardson, widow of the late Dr. Tobias G. Richardson. It is
a handsome building of white stone, equipped with every modern appliance for
the prosecution of medical investigation. It cost upwards of $100,000. A
bronze tablet bearing a profile of Dr. Richardson ornaments the wall of the
entrance hall. The museum is remarkably rich in medical curiosities. The
Medical School is famous throughout the Union. It constitutes a part of the
Tulane University. It was organized in 1834. The students have access to
the Charity Hospital.

On the corner of Robertson, diagonally opposite the Richardson Memorial,
te the colored medical school conducted tmder the auspices of the New Orleans
University, colored.

The Phyllis Wheatley Training School for Colored Nurses is locatefl in
this building.

^ After crossing Claiborne Avenue, Canal Street thence on to the Cemeteries
is lined with beautiful residences, many of them embowered among trees and
vines. At No. 2036 Canal is the residence of Mr. John T. Gibbons, brother
of the great American Cardinal.

The Canal Siit'ut Presliytoriau Church is at the corner of Canal and Der-
bigiiy Street.

Straight University (colored) occupies a whole square on Canal Street, be-
tween Tonti and Rocheblave. It is fully equipped for the higher education of
its matriculants.

The beautiful Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus stands at the corner of
South Lopez and Canal Streets. It was erected entirely at the e.xpense of
one of New Orleans" philanthropic citizens, the late Colonel P. A. O'Brien. The
cost was $50,000. Mr. O'Brien, at his death, left a handsome sum for the
erection of the School of the Sacred Heart, which adjoins the Church.

Just back of these edifices, plainly seen from the car, is the Frank T. How-
art School No. 1, erected at a cost of over $40,000 by the public-spirited citizea
whose name it bears.

As the car nears the corner of Broad and Canal an imposing and beautiful
edifice known as the House of

The Good Shepherd

rises in view. It stands at the corner of Bienville and Broad Streets, just two
squares from Canal, and is one of the noblest and most interesting of the many
charitable and religious institutions for which the old city is famous.

The House of the Good Shepherd is a reformatory institution for the re-
claiming of fallen women. The extensive buildings were erected from the for-
tune of a philanthropic New Orleans lady, who nearly forty years ago deter-
mined to devote her pure life to the calling of a Sister of the Good Shepherd.
But long before that time the Sisters of the Good Shepherd were in New Or-
leans devoting themselves to their God-given mission of bringing back to the
path of virtue those of their sex who had fallen away. In this reformatory the
girls are trained to habits of industry and order and assist in their self-main-
tenance by performing various household duties. They also sew for
private individuals and stores. The sisters also conduct a large laundry, in
which washing is done for public institutions, hotels, private homes, etc. Visitors
are admitted on application to the Superioress or to the janitress at the Bienville
Street entrance. Attached to the institution is a home for the "Order of Mag-
dalens" or fallen women who desire to enter the religious life. After a period
of probation, if they show themselves properly disposed and qualified, they re-
ceive the brown habit of the order, in distinction from the spotless white-robed
women — Sisters of the Good Shepherd — who have entered the order to devote
themselves to the reformation of the outcast. In the "work room" where the
probationists sit doing that beautiful hand embroidery which is the wonder of
the artist, is a handsome altar of the Blessed Virgin, to which a most pathetic
story is attached. Over thirty years ago, during a terrible snow storm, that
surprised New Orleans, the convent bell rang after midnight and a magnificently
dressed and jewel-declced woman alighted from a carriage, and entering
threw herself at the feet of the Superioress and asked to be admitted. The
next da.v she donned the humble garb of the "penitents." For nine years she
labored faithfully and one spring day asked to be received among the Mag-
daleus. She wished to remain in that sweet haven forever and help to bring
other simiers like herself to God. Two years later, on the morning that she
received the veil, she came to the Superioress with all the jewels that she had
worn that night when she came in tears and sorrow so many years before, and
laying them at her feet, she begged that they might be sold and with the pro-
ceeds an altar be erected to the Blessed Mother of God in the room where the
"penitents" sit daily at work. "For," said she, "it was the picture of that
sweet face of pure womanhood looking down upon me daily from that humble
altar that so touched my heart with the divinity and priceless truth of the
heritage that I had lost, and I wish that out of my sins and tears a more
beautiful altar may arise to the Mother of Him who did not disdain the Mag-
dalen, but said to her, 'Go, and sin no more.' " And so this beautiful shrine
was erected, and from its shadow hundreds of girls who have entered the re-
formatory since then, have passed from the humble workroom where industry
is the watchword, to the eternally safe harbor of the "Magdalen's Home," or
back into the world to lead others to the practice of the God-like purity that
they have here learned to love and reverence.

In the rear portion of the grounds is a fine two-story brick building, erected
some years ago at a cost of $30,000 through the philanthropy of Mr. Thorny
Lafon, for the reclaiming of colored girls. It is also under the charge of the
Sisters of the Good Shepherd.

As the car nears its terminus it passes the Beauregard Public School,
which was once a fine old Southern mansion.

Canal Street terminates at the

fialf=way House,

on the New Basin Canal. Half-Way House is so called because it is very
nearly half-way between the river and the Lake. This is Metairie Ridge, one
of the highest parts of the city. Just around from the turn along the Bayou St.
John was the ancient "Terre des Lgpreux," or Leper Land of early Creole days.
The Hospital of St. Lazarre stood here. It was erected in the early French
domination, but all traces of it have long since disappeared.

The terminus of Canal Street marks also the cities of the dead.. All
around the visitor will notice beautiful and picturesque surroundings. Th&
handsome cemeteries of the American section are in the vicinity of the Canal
Street terminus, and while exploring this neighborhood the visitor will do well
to visit them. In the chapter devoted to "Cemeteries" will be found short
sketches of these beautiful resting places of the dead.

The Sportsman's Park, where baseball games take place in summer time
and football in winter, adjoins the Firemen's Cemetery.

The scene on the Bayou here is very picturesque. The New Canal was
constructed to facilitate the commerce of the city through more direct communi-
cation with Lake Pontchartrain, and is navigable for schooners, launches an^
other small craft. The celebrated Simon Cameron, later United States Senator
for Pennsylvania and a member of Lincoln's Cabinet, was the first contractor
for the digging of the canal.

The old Oakland Driving Park is on the shellroad adjoining the Metairie
Cemetery. The shellroad is a toll road, and leads to West End.

Athletic Park is located on Tulane Avenue, between South Carrollto»
Avenue and Pierce Street. It has recently become a very popular re-
sort. It is handsomely laid out, and during the summer months music and other
forms of entertainment make the spot one of continual delight. It may be
reached by means of the Tulane and St. Charles Belt cars.

The tourist may return to the business section of Canal Street by the same
route, the "Canal Belt" or "Esplanade Belt."

E^-f=

CHAPTER XII.

The Up=town Section, or American Quarter — His=

torical Baronne Street, St. Charles, Jack=

son and Napoleon Avenues.

The growth of the New Orleans above Canal Street took place within the
last century. This is the American city founded by the sturdy band of West-
erners who, as early as 1772, saw the commercial advantages to be se-
cured by a union of Southern and Western forces. Following the daring ad-
venturers, notwithstanding the coldness with which they wei'e received, there
came into the French Quarter, rich traders from Baltimore, Philadelphia and
Boston, who established branch houses in New Orleans, and their success led
other Americans, yoimg and energetic, to come and locate in the city, and seek
the Aladdin's lamp that was said to be everywhere hidden in the rub-
bish of the old Frencli town. Tlie Creoles, with their easy, elegant manner*

and hixnrious homes bad little use for these piouoer American invaders. Bur
the sturdy flow of emigration was not to be deterred, to the utter dismay ( f
the Creoles. National feeling ran high and especially did the bitter sentimen:
grow after the cession of Louisiana to the United States in 1803. Finally, a?-
lias already been stated, the Americans moved in large numbers across Cana.
Slreet and built their own city.

Such was the enterprise of the people that in 1830 New Orleans ranked
after New York, Philadelphia and Boston, in the order of the great cities of

VIEW OF CARONDELKT STREET FROM CANAL.

the Union, and travelers came from all parts to see the "Queen City of tht^
South," so wealthy, so gracious, so cultured, and the greatest cotton and sugar
market in the world.

Nevertheless, Avith all its enterprise the Faubourg Ste. Marie was coi>-
stantly out-voted by the French city below Canal Street.

The Mayor and a majority of the Councilmeu were elected by the French
Quarter. As a consequence almost all the city revenues were expended on im-
provements below Canal Street. The I'oiitchartrain Railioad. bnilt in 1825. anc

''fO/*^ _

vii':\v oi' ST. cHAKLi;- stki-:et i-^kom ca>.al.

tlio Carondelet Canal were voted ro ihe down-town st-ction. The citizens of tin'
Amerieaii Quarter, incensed at this Imilt their own Canal, which hroiifrht tli--
traflBc of the lakes to the feot of .Tnlia Street, and in the excitetnient of rivalry,
and antajronism, with the aid of the conntry members of the Legishitiire. tliev
forced thro'ish th.it hody i" IS.'il .-i l>ill which was an aniendnient to the city
charter, and which divided New Orleans into three distinct municipalities, eac'i
with its own City Council. The Faulionrg Ste. Marie thus became the con-
troller of its own linanccs; it buiit its own Levees, paved its own streets, erected
new stores and warehouses and blocks and blocks of residvnces.

An old qna.siinire on St. Cli.-^ries h'treet was filled in. and upon its site rose
the old St. Charles Hotel, with its beautiful perlicoes and stately c<dnmns. Th"
miserable waste along Camp and T,af.nyette Streets was converted into I^afay-
ette Square, and around it were siTonped picturesquely the present City Hall.
Odd Fellows' Hall and the First Presbyterian Church. Newspaper companie.s.
and railroad con!v:inies, 1 .-r'ks and cTchansres, and cotton pressi s spran<r up, au'l
property eidianced fourfold in vahu-. It soon became evident, even to the
proud-spirited Creoles, tliat the "liitle ui>start city above Canal Street." a'<
they contemptuously called the new estabiishnuiil, h;;d left its French mother in
the rear.

In 1S52. the three municii'.alitie.'; came tc-irether asain as one city. Tl>»'
Amencans had gained their point: the Creoles gracefully yielded, and the old
Cabildo surrendered its ancient rights to tlie new City Hall. Since then, side
by side with the old city, the new one has continued to grow, radically distincr
in language r.nd sentiment, custmus and manners, yet strangely bound to the
olden city by a thousand dear and tender ties, and gracefully accepting many
of its most ancient and charming customs as its own.

As remarked in the begini'ing of this Guide, the best way to see the
American section of the city is from the street cars, alighting as the Guide or
individual interest may indicate at stich prints as seem to merit a closer inspec-
tion. Among these may be sasgested the great Charity Hospital, lying along
the route of the Tulane Avenue Bell.

'JTO £.tJ6 C""

KHO^c t.\- 1\l> «rP.E.

COUKTHOUSl-: AXD PHISOX.

Tliis cai- may l>e taken in Canal Street. It turns thence into Soutli Ram-
part and thence into Tuhme Avenue at the intersection of Rampart and Com-
mon Streets. At the corner of Basin and Tnhuie Avenue stands the new court-
house and jail, erected between 1893 and 1895, at a cost of about $350,000. The
criminal courts are on the second lioor. ove'rlooking Tulane Avenue. On the
lower fionr will be found the office of the Chief of Police, the First Recorder's
Court and various other administrative offices. The rest of the square is occu-
I)ied liT the Parish Jail. A hiuli brick wall surrounds this portion. A criminal
accused of a capital crime enters the institution at the time of arrest,
and. if convicted, never leaves it until after sentence or execution. The en-
Tiance to the jnil is on Gravier Street. Permission must be obtained from the
(■riminal Sheriff (whose office is in the building) to enter the jail. The eiecu-
tions take |)lace in the large paved courtyard in the angle formed by Basin and
Grtvier Streets.

The white building on the corner of Tulane and Liberty is the New Orleaos
Polyclinic.

At Howard Street begins tlio long facade of the

Charity Hospital.

It if ono ol tho oldest charitable institutions in America. The first hos-
pital was founded by Bienville. In 1727 the TJrsnline Nuns assumed charge of
the nursing and liouKehokl niauagement of the wetablishment. which was located

in Hospital Street. In 1737 Jean Louis, a sailor, in gratitiide to the Ursulioe*
for their tender nursing, left 10,000 livres for the founding of a charity hospital.
This foundation was the precursor of the immense establishment in Tulane
Avenue. The present hospital was founded in 178(3 by Don Almonaster y
Roxas and the main building, as it stands to-day, in the center of the square,
was erected in 1832. Other buildings have been added from time to time.
Prominent among these are the Richard Milliken Memorial Hospital for Chil-
dren, founded by Mrs. D. A. Milliken, at a cost approximating !^13U,U00, in
memory of her husband, and the Home of the Training School for Nurses, cost-
ing $50,000, which was the gift of the late A. C. Hutchinson. On the large
tract of ground recently acquired near the hospital the management proposes
to erect a hospital for consumptives, and an important bequest of it;80,000 from
the late William Richards will be utilized, possibly, in the erection of a build-
ing for the exclusive treatment of infectious diseases. The Charity Hospital
is admirably managed by a Board of Administrators appointed by the Gover-
nor; the household management and nursing have for over sixty-eight years
been in charge of the Sisters of Charity. The hospital has a capacity of 850
beds, and handles about 7,000 cases annually. It has a tine system of free

KICHAKD MILLIKEN MEMOKIAL HOvSFITAL FOR CHILDREN.

clinics; its ambulance service for emergency cases is unsurpassed, and its amph^
theatre is said to be the most perfectly equipped of any in the United States.
Competent judges from all parts of the country and Europe have pronounced
the New Orleans Charity Hospital one of the most complete of its kind in th«
world, and one of which any State may be proud. It well repays a visit.

Across the street, on the corner of Freret, is the building occupied by tbt
Ambulance Corps, or the resident students of the Medical Corps.

The Claiborne Market stands at the corner of Tulane Avenue and Claibomt
Street.

St. Joseph's Church

is the immense structure of brick on the corner of the avenue and South Der-
bigny Street. It is noted as being the second largest church in the United
States. During the construction of the walls in 1871 the foundations settled,
and the building was greatly injured, but the defects being overcome,
the structure was completed in 1892, with the exception of the spires, whieL
were to have been 200 feet high. The church is Gothic-Romanesque in stjle.

"»2

"The rose window in the organ loft was made in Muuicli, is 21 feet in diameter,
and cost $1,800. It represents Christ and the twelve apsotles. The church has
seating capacity of 1,900. The iron cross that surmounts it is 25 feet high.

The Lazarist Fathers purchased recently almost the entire square on the
Roman Street side of the Church, and will erect thereon, daring- the present
year, a mag-nificent parochial school and convent. The cost will be it;70,000.
The school will be called the ''S. Pizatti,'" after the generous donor.

The Hotel Dieu, an admirable private hospital under the direction of the
Sisters of Charity, occupies the square between Bertrand and Johnson Streets.
The institution is the outgrowth of the old "Hotel Dieu," established by the
Ursulines in Barracks Street iu 1727. The only Medical Gymnasium in the
vSouth for correction of deformities in children was recently established in
connection with this Hospital.

The large brick structure in Tulane Avenue, between Broad and White
Streets, still in course of erection, is the House of Detention, and is intended
to replace the City Workhouse.

The visitor can return by Tulane Avenue to Rampart Street. Leaving the
car here, he may walk over the continuation of the avenue known as Common
Street, into the heart of town. By doing ,so he will be enabled to see the Chinese
Quarter, located in the vicinity of Rampart and Common. The Chinese Mission,
a unique religious establishment, is at No. 215 Liberty.

In the square bounded by Canal, Baronne, Common and Dryades Streets
there stood, until recently, the buildings occupied by the old University of Lou-
siana; they were stately edifices, supported by Greek columns and porticoes.
One of these, fronting on Common Street, was the home of the Medical College
fi-om 1847 to 1893. When the L^niversity of Louisiana was reorganized under
the name of Tulane University, in 1882, "University Place" was the name be-
stowed upon the first square iu Dryades Street, from Canal to Common. Upon
the removal of Tulane University to its present quarters, in St. Charles Avenue,
all of these old historic buildings were demolished, with the exception of one,
and theaters and stores erected upon their sites. The building that still re-
mains was known for some years after the Tulane purchase as Tulane
Hall, and was the official place of business of the Tulane University. Upon
the erection of the Tulane-Newcomb Building in Camp Street, the offices of
the Universitj' w^re removed to this site, and the old hall was sold to the
Grunewald Hotel proprietor for the sum of .$90,000, and by him leased to a
theatrical >.tock company. The building stands in University Place,
between Canal and Common Streets; it i.s a handsome structure and is ex-
ceedingly interesting from an historic point of view. It was formerly Me-
chanics' Insti:ute and was built early in the fifties for technical and
literarj-^ purposes. During the Civil War, when a State Government
was formed under the protection of the Federal troops, this building was made
tlie capitol. It wa.s used for this purpo.se until 186G, when the July riots, as
the.v were called, dissolved the soi-disant government. Those riots were
caused by the unauthorized assembling of the old Radical State Convention of
18G4. The members, supported by some colored adherents, barricaded them-
selves inside the building. They refused to open the doors wlien the Sheriff
demanded admission. The building was taken by assault und several were
killed and wounded on both sides. The Legislature met in this building in
1872, in special session, to count the election returns. The aspiring Republican
Governor, W. P. Kellogg, tried to enjoin the State Officers and Legislature from
-carrying out this purpose, knowing that fraud had been perpetrated. E. H.
Durell, Judge of the United States District Court, claiming that liis injunction
would most probably be disregarded, signed at midnight an order directing the
United States Marshal to seize the capitol. The marshal took a company of
United States soldiers, seized the hall and refused to admit any but Kellogg's
partisans. From this action resulted complications through which Kellogg be-
came de facto Governor of the State, and was maintained in that poiition for
several years, mainly through the help of the Federal troops.

The State Library is in the left wing of the building. The Library contains
about 40,000 volumes, of which 5,000 are in foreign languages. A magnificent
edition of Audubon's works, illustrated by himself, may be seen in this Library.
Audubon studied the form, color, plumage and habits of every bird in the Louis-
iana forests, and all are faithfully given in this wonderful work. The Library

i? open daily from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m.. except on Sunday. Tulane Avenue is
tincly paved and is rapidly £:ro\\iu£: into favor as a residence section.

One of the most delightful rides that can bo taken through any Southern
< ity, is had over the St. Charles Belt, which traverses Canal Street, and turns
irom the lUrection of the river into Baronne Street. This line carries the visitor
through the most beautiful and picturesque section of the American Quarter.

But before boardincr the car visit the famous

Jesuits' Church,

in Barouno Street, near Canal. Barontie Street at this point marks the limits
of the old Jesuits' Plantation of 1727, and just where the beautiful church now
rises, with its magnificent dome. Avas the spot where the fathers of this order
first attempted the cultivation of sugar cane in 1751. As the car turns the
corner of Baronne the stately dome of the chtirch rises to view. The hand?

JESUIT.S CHUKCH AND COLLEGK

some structure occupies the site of an unpretentious little chapel built in 184b.
The church is known officially as that of the Immaculate Conception. It is in
the Moresque style of architecture, and was designed by a Jesuit priest. The
building is 133 feet long and HO feet wide. The twin steeples have never been
built. The interior is graceful, with galleries resting on a series of horseshoe-
shaped arches, supported by slender iron columns of Moorish design. The sub-
jects represented in the small, round, stained-glass windows are the stations
of the cross. The stained-glass in the lower windows represents scenes from
the history of the Jesuits. The main altar is of gold, and was executed in Paris
at a cost of $14,000. A dome 180 feet high rises above the altar: and in the
wall is a niche in which stands a white marble statue of the Virgin Mary. This
statue was ordered by Marie Amelie. Queen of France, for the royal chapel in
the Tuilleries; but the Revolution of 1848 drove the Queen from France, and
caused the statue to be offered for sale. It was purchased by a Creole gen-
tleman and brought to New Orleans. At his death it was purchased for this

')4

<!i)r.rcli at a cost of >".5,000. Its original value was estimated at !(;30,000. In the
chapel ou the right is the altar of St. Joseph, and on the left is the altar dedi-
cated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus. The bronze statue of St. Feter, near the
main entrance, is modeled from the famous figure in the Church of St. I'eter, in
Rome. In the galleries are many beautiful memorial windows, among others
one erected by the soldier-Jesuit, Father Hubert, to the Confederate dead. The
cliurch is celebrated for the excellence of its music.

Adjoining the church is the College of the Immaculate Conception, con-
ducted by the Jesuit Fathers since its establishment by them in 1848. The
school contains a library, in which is one of the largest and best collections of
books on canon law in rhe United States, also the largest and best collection
of French authors in the United States. The T. J. Semmes Memorial Cha-
pel, a handsome specimen of Moorish architecture, is in this building. To
the right of the Church stands McCloskey Hall, a fine brick structure erec-

CKESCENT AND TULANE THEATRES.

ted and donated bj- the Messrs. McCloskej- to the Jesuit Fathers for College
purposes.

Just across from the Jesuits' Church is the Hotel Grunewald. Adjoining
the hotel, toward the rear of the square, near the corner of Baronne and Com-
Mion, stand the i

Crescent and Tulane Theatres.

These handsome new edifices were erected in 1898, at a cost of over $200,-
000, on the site of the old Univei^ity buildings. The Crescent Theater has a
large .seating capacity. About twenty-two feet from the Crescent stands the
Tulane. It is of almost equal size and a match in beauty for its twin sister.
Over 1,000 electric lights illuminate these theatres, and the effect on gala nights
is surpassingly brilliant. The splendid new playhouses offer every advantage
for the finest scenic display. The stages have a depth of G5 feet, and enable
the managers to put up the most elaborate productions. The interiors are fin-
ished with the finest staff plaster, the same that made the White City of Chicago
famous.

<»5

T.ikins tlie car at this corner, the Newsboys' Home is seeu at No. o4"J

Baronne Street. . , , ,

The PoTdras Market is on the right hand side of the car as it goes uptown.
It occupies the central part of Poydras Street. Its name is derived from Julii-n
roydra.s, a fanuus planter of early days in New Orleans, after whbui, also, the
street is' named. The market is very picturesque. On week days there may he
seen standing in the middle of the market rows of colored women waiting to be
employed to wash or scrub. The market was a famous slave mart of ante-
bellum days. , • , , L-

In Baronne. corner of St. Joseph, is a iRvge four-story brick plumbing
manufactory, erected recently at a cost of $74,00(».

i.i:i: ^iuNr:\ii':NT.

The next point of interest is

Lee Circle,

in which stands the imposing monument to the great Confederate General Robert
E. Lee. This monument cost $40,000. The shaft is over 106 feet high, and

is composed of white mai'hle l>lofks. re'stin.ir on cypress ]iiles driven deep inti>
the cartli and bolted together. The column contains a staircase, and just under
the statue, which is of bronze, is an obserA-atory. Lee Circle was formerly
called Tivoli Circle, and Howard Avenue was once called Triton ^yalk, but
was renamed in honor of a public-spirited citizen.

At the Lee Monument the cars turn into St. Charles Avenue, which is a
continuation of St. Charles Street. Here the street broadens out; there are
double drives and a neutral ground, and the avenue is said to be one ot the
Quest in America. The cars traverse the thoroughfare from the Circle to Car-
rollton Avenue, continuing out Carrollton Avenue to its intersection with Tulane
Avenue, through which they return to Canal Street, thus forming "the St.
Charles Belt." The "Tulane Belt" cars traverse the same route in the oppo-
site direction. This line, which was recently absorbed by the New Orleans
Street Railways Company, was built in 183.3, and was the first line of
horse railroads in the United States. The cars were then two-storied, the
upper deck being covered with a canvas in the summer time. The upper
story was reached by a stairca.'c. There was a great deal of life and ex-
citement about this second stor}-, and many old residents declare that the

two-storied Cars were much pleasanter than the cars of the present day, as
the breezes were cooler and fresher aloft.

At the corner of Calliope Street and St. Charles Avenue is the North-
ern Methodist Church, founded just after the Civil War b_v Bishop J. P.
Newman. It was here that Gen. Grant worshipped while in New Orleans.

The Young- Men's Hebrew Association occupies the stately structure at
the corner of the Avenue and Clio Street. The building- was erected in 189(i.
It contains a public hall called the Athenaeum where cjncerts theatricals
and balls are often given.

At the corner of Jackson and St. Charles Avenues is tiie Harmony Club.
The clubhouse is of white marble, and was erected in ISDIi. The club vir-
tually dates from 1SG2. having been formed by merging together the "Deutscher
Company" and "The Yoimg Bachelors' Clnb," organized about 1S56. Its mem-
bership is mainly among the wealthy and refined Hebrews of tlie city.

Along the line of this demarcation are many of the handsomest private
residences in New Orleans, the beautiful open gardens and palms giving this.
section the title of "Garden District." ,.• .

PALMS ON ST. CHARLES AVENUE.

~ The First German Church is on St. Charles, corner of St. Andrew.

The beautiful Whitney residence is at No. 2233 St. Charles.

The mansion at No. 2508 St. Charles is not only a handsome specimen of
a Southern home, but was the residence of E. Richardson, the most celebrated
cotton merchant of his time. He was known as "the Cotton King." It is now
the home of Frank P. Hayne.

At No. 2618 is the residence of the late A. C. Hutchinson, who left a for-
tune of upwards of a million dollars. He made several large bequests to
charitable institutions, and left about $700,000 for the extension of the
work of the Tulane Medical College. He bequeathed his beautiful home, with
its many art treasures, to his friend, Mr. J. P. Blair.

There has recentl3' been a revival, along^ the Avenue, of the old colonial
style of architecture whose stately columns and general classic effects have
added much to the beauty of the thoroug-hfare. Notable types are the T. J.
McCarthy and the remodeled Blair residences.

At the corner of Third and St. Charles Avenue i,s the house where resided
John A. Morris, famous as the head of the Louisiana State Lottery Company.

Christ Church Cathedral

is the fine brick and stucco edifice at the corner of St. Charles Avenue and
Sixth Street. This church represents the pioneer Protestant organization of the
Southwest. It was organized in January, 1805. At this date the Protestant

CHKIST CHURCH CATH1<:DKAL.

population of New Orleans was so small and belonged to so many denomina-
tions that it was found impossible to build churches to accommodate each unto
kself. A meeting was, therefore, called of all the Protestants, and it was de-
cided that a church be erected. The decision as to what denomination tlie
church should belong was settled by lot. The Episcopalians won, the church
was built, and all Protestants united in their house of worship. The
church was originally attached to the Diocese of New York. It stood at the
corner of Canal and Bourbon Streets. In 1847, as the old church was found to
be too small, a new one was erected, at the corner of Dauphine and Canal
Streets, at a cost of $50,000. In 1886 this church was sold and the congrega-
tion moved to the present beautiful edifice. The interior is very handsomely
frescoed. The stained-glass windows include memorials to the Slocomb family
and the late Bishop Galleher. The entrance to the lower floor of the tower
contains old tablets of the former wardens. Christ Church is the pro-cathedral
of the Diocese, and the dean acts as rector. The residen'^e of the bishop, Rt.
Rev. D. Sessums, adjoins the Cathedral, with which it communicates through
vine-grown cloisters. The dean's residence is in the rear of the church in Sixth
Street.

Adjoining the church is the J. L. Harris Memorial Chapel, erected by Mrs.
J. L. Harris in memory of her husband.

At 3607 is the gray stone Newman residence.

At the corner of General Taylor and St. Charles is the Rayne Memorial
Methodist Church, erected by Mr. Rayne, a wealthy citizen, at a cost of $50,-
000, in memory of his son, who was killed at the battle of Shiloh.

The beautiful Southern colonial-looking structure on St. Charles, between
Jena and Cadiz, is the Academy of the Ladies of the Sacred Heart, a boarding
school for young ladies.

PALMER AVENUE.

At the corner of St. Charles Avenue and Valence Street is the palatial
(iome erected recently at a cost of $ir.O,000 by W. P. Brown, who became
famous in the great Bull Cotton Campaign of 1903.

St. George's Episcopal Church is at the corner of St. Charles and Cadiz
Street.

The Asykim for Destitute Boys is the large brick building between Du-
fossat and Valmont streets.

VIEW ALONG THE LAKE — AUDUBON PARK.

Between Leontine and Peters is the New Orleans University, a well
equipped institution for the education of colored youth.

At the corner of Peters Avenue and St. Charles is the commodious

Jewish Orphans' Home,

which was erected and is maintained through the generosity of the
Jews of the city. The home was founded in 1855. The present
building was erected in 1880, and is one of the best regulated
orphanages in the city. The nursery and kindergarten departments are par-

L.ofC.

100

ticularly intercstin?. In the yard is a magnificent fc^Hirtahi built by tlie wealtliy
Jcwisli ehililrou of the city as an offt'iiuy to their less fortunate sisters and
brothers. The childieu of this asylum are admirably equipiJed, educationally
and otherwise for their future duties in life.

At r)7()") St. Charles Avenue is tl.e home of Mr. Lawrence Fubacher.
on the f,n-(Hinds of which stanJs h'n private Casino, also one of the finest
hot houses in the South.

AVKl'.UE OF OAKS — AUDUECN I'AKK.

A block or two from St. Charles, and visible from the car in the perspec-;
tive of Nashville Avenue, is seen the Shakspeare Almshouse, where the penniless
and decrepit poor may find a refuge. It was built by Mayor Shakspeare ten
or twelve years ago. The large brick building iu the almshouse inclosure was
erected for the use of the Boys' House of Refuge, but has recently by an act
of the City Council been diverted to public school purposes.

Two squares this side of Audubon Park, is Talmor avenue, so named in
honor of Dr. Talmer, the noted Tresbyteriau divine who resided iu this strvft.

■/'f^*.: I ' ii'iiT- t'^tit

102

His family still reside in tlie old home. The avenue which was formerly a
e«;ction of Iloiiry Clay avenue, is one of the most beautiful and picturesque
residence streets in New Orleans.

Audubon Park,

wliich is to the residents of the American section of New Orleans, what the
City Park is to the French quarter, is the most important point along this
route. The entrance to the park in St. Charles avenue leads the visitor over
an immense tract upon which magnificent live oaks were sacrificed in 1884, to
admit of the erection of the buildings of the World's Cotton Centennial Ex-
position. The park is a beautiful spot and covers 280 acres. It was originally
the plantation of the French patriot. Masson. who in 17G8 was condemned to
ten years' imprisonment in Moro Castle for resisting the cession of the colony
to Spain. The plantation was subsequently owned by Etienne de Bore, the

WA.SHINGTON OAK — AUDUBON PAKK.

first great sugar planter of Louisiana, and grandfather of the historian, Charles
Gayarre. It was on this laud that Mr. De Bore succeeded in introducing the
permanent manufacture of sugar into New Orleans, and raised the first com-
mercially profitable crop of sugar ever grown. in the South. Just above this
historic plantation was that of Pierre Foucher, a son-in-law of M. De Bor6.
The entire property finally fell into the hands of the Marquis de Circe Foucher,
by whose heirs the present site of Audubon I'ark was sold to the city. The
land was allowed to he unimproved till the Cotton Centennial Exposition, when
the managers of that enterprise greatly beautified the spot. All the Exposition
buildings were removed except the Horticultural Hall, which still stands. In
18oo the park was placed imder the control of a Commission, which is devoting
itself to beautifying the grounds, planting trees to replace those that were cut
down, etc. The Horticultural Hall is over 300 feet long and contains a remark-
able collection of rare plants, tropical palms and exotics. It is perhaps tl.e

103

TOWAKD the; BRIDGKWAV — AUDUBOX PARK.

largest greenhouse in existence. Tlie section of the park lying between Maga~
zine Street and the river is kept in perfect order. The task of improving th«
rest of the park is progressing slowly. The live oaks are very fine, especially
the long avenue in front of and behind the Hall. The single magnificent speci-
men standing in solitary majesty beside the lake is called the "George Wash-
ington" oak. The park is reached by several lines of cars, the most convenient
of which are the Coliseum and the Magazine. In summer time a band plays on
alternate evenings in a stand under the oaks near the Horticultural Hall. Tk«
park is a favorite resort at all times of the year, especially for children. The
visitor gets a view of the most barren portion of the park irom the St. Charle«
car.

THK TUI..'LX1C UMVIOKSITV

104

In the vicinity on St. Charles Avenue are Audubon Place and Rosa Park,
which are beautiful private residence sections.

The handsome colonial-looking residence with the stately white portico at
5809 St. Charles Avenue is the home of Mr. Nicholas Burke. It is a beautiful
type of pure Southern architecture. Nearly opposite the entrance to Audubon
Park is the beautiful little Church of the Holy Name of Jesus, which is under
the direction of the Jesuit Fathers. Around the corner at No. 1930 Calhoun
Street, is the convent and school of the Sisters of Notre Dame, who also con-
duct the parochial school of St. John Berchmaus, attached to the church.

Adjoining the church grounds are the extensive buildings of

The Tulane University

of Louisiana. The University was founded through the generosity of Paul
Tulane, a wealthy merchant, who, at his death, left a bequest of over $1,000,-
000 for this purpose. The L'niversity has since received other bequests; among
recent donations are those of Mrs. F. W. Tilton, who gave $50,000 to erect the
Library Building, and the munificent bequests of the late A. C. HutchiDSon.
The buildings contain University and Collegiate Departments, both for men
and women, and Law, Medical and Technical Schools. The Medical Building
is in Canal Street, and is called the Richardson Memorial. In the Arts and
Science Building is a copy of '"Tripitka," presented to the University by the
King of Siam.

Leland University, for colored males, occupies the square on the avenue
between Audubon and Walnut.

St. Mary's Dominican Convent is on the avenue, between Broadway and
Pine.

Beyond the University, where St. Charles Avenue has, properly speaking,
its head, there formerly ran a beautiful road called Naiads Street. The
grounds were handsomely laid out and were called the CarroUton Gardens;
there was a restaurant where General Boulanger and Thackeray were both en-
tertained on their visits to New Orleans. Some years ago it was found ad-
visable to build a Levee through the gardens, and the old restaurant was
dismantled and sold.

The car here turns out CarroUton Avenue to Jeannette Street, the way
being through a very choice residence portion.

All this section of New Orleans was formerly the municipality of

CarroUton,

Bnd still bears the ancient name. It was separated by long uninhabited spaces
from the nearest city of Jefferson. CarroUton was in early days a plantation
and was the property of the brave patriot, Lafreniere,«who with his six associate
leaders of the Revolution of 1768, was shot in Jackson Square by order of the
Spanish Governor O'Reilly. The plantation subsequently became the property
of Mile. De Macarty, who was the famous "bas bleu" of colonial days in New
Orleans. She belonged to the school of "Les Dames Precieuses," so amusingly
caricatured by Moli6re in his "Prficieuses Ridicules." She was very brilliant,
and declared a thousand times that she had never yet met a man who could
please her and was determined to die in single blessedness. She managed her
vast estates with masculine ability and her name has come down as the histor-
ical "Yielle Fille," or old maid of the Faubourg. All traces of the old plantation
have long since passed away.

At 602 CarroUton Avenue is St. Andrew's Episcopal Church.

The Jackson Avenue car, which may be taken in Canal Street, runs from
Canal Street up St. Charles to Jackson Avenue, and thence to the terminus in
Jackson Avenue near the river. It passes through a handsome residence dis-
irict.

On the corner of Coliseum and Jackson is

Trinity Church.

Trinity is an Episcopal Church, and so many of its rectors have passed
from this parish to the bishopric that it is often called "The Church of the
Bishops." It is of Gothic architecture. The congregation was organized in
1S4T. The present structure dates from 1851, and was built at a cost of $22,-

105

t500. Bishop Polk was called to take charge of the parish in 1855. He left it
during the Civil War. to become a Major General in the Confederate service,
and after serving gallantly was shot and killed while out with a reconnoitering
party on Pine Mountain, near Marietta, Georgia, June 14, 1864,
A beautiful stained-glass window has been erected to his mem-
ory and contains scenes from the life of the Savior — the Last
Supper, the Crucifixion and the Ascension. In 1865 Dr. J. W.
Beckwith, afterwards Bishop of Georgia, became rector. During his incum-
bency the church was extended and improved at a cost of $25,000. In 1868 ReT.
J. N. Galleher, afterward Bishop of Louisiana, became rector. He was suc-
ceeded by the Kev. S. S. H.*rris. afterwards Bishop of Michigan. In 1873 the
front of the church was remodelled at a cost of $16,000 . Dr. Hugh Miller
T-Qompson, the late Bishop of Mississippi, was the next rector. The present
Tector is Dr. Beverly Warner. Trinity is reputed to have the best choir among
the Protestant Churches in the city.

The late Ambassador Eustis, when in town, resided in the handsome red
brick house, with the wide verandas, on the corner opposite Trinity Church.

The little French Church of Notre Dame de Bons Secours is on Jackson
Street, near Constance.

Near the corner of Jackson and Chippewa stands the

Children's Home (Protestant Episcopal),

an admirablii asylum conducted under the auspices of the Episcopal diocese
of Louisiana. It is a home for orphan girls, but also receives small boys. The
institution is in charge of the Sisters of Bethany, a local diocesan organization
of the Episcopal faith. It is well worth a visit. The chapel is very pretty, and
the children's festivals, especially at Easter and Christmastide, are very beau-
tiful.

Directly across the street is McDonogh High School No. 2, a brick
building originally erected for the Jewish Orphans' Home, but purchased
ty the city seven or eight years ago for use as a public high school for the
:girls of the upper districts.

On St. Thomas, near Jackson Avenue, is the Seamen's Bethel.

St. Vincent's Haven for Seamen is on Tchoupitoulas, near Josephine.

At the junction of Napoleon Avenue and St. Charles Street the Napoleon
Avenue car. a branch from the St. Charles.' may be taken. The car runs thence
to the river for the accommodation of residents along the avenue.

This line of cars has developed a larg-e area which is rapidly building'
up with beautiful residences.

St. Elizabeth's Industrial Home for Girls in charge of the Sisters of Charity
is at the corner of Prytania and Napoleon Avenue. The home is the climax in
a trinity of institutions, under the charge of this sisterhood in New Orleans.

From the Infant Asylum, at Race and Magazine Streets, the children past
to St. Theresa's Asylum in Camp Street, where they are given a good common
•school education. Thence they graduate into this industrial home, where they
are trained for active work by which they may become self-supporting in the
world without. St. Elizabeth's is noted for its schools of needlework, the pro-
ducts of which are in great demand throughout the country. Among its grad-
uates have been many wonderfully expert needlewomen.

At the corner of Camp and Napoleon Avenue, is St. Stephen's Church, a
handsome edifice in brick. It has been in course of construction for some years
and still lacks the steeple. The interior is not yet completed, but for the past
ten years services have been held in the edifice. The pictures over the altar
represent the martyrdom of St. Stephen.

The power-house of the street car company at the end of the line is in-
teresting, and may be visited upon application to the foreman.

CHAPTER XIII

Camp, Prytania and Magazine Streets.

Camp Street is an important business thoroughfare of New Orleans, many
stores, banks and insurance companies having their offices in the section be*

106

VIEW DOWN CAMP STRKET FROM POVDRAS.

tvveen Poydras and Canal. The newspaper oflBces are also in Camp Street,
hence this distinct section is often called "Newspaper Row."

The Prytaniii Street cars run from Canal into Camp Street, and continue
up the latter to (I!alliope, where Prytania Street begins.

The large, Jrick hardware store on the river side of Camp and Common
Streets occupies the site where at one time stood the City Hotel, in its time a
famous resort. It played a conspicuous part in the stirring drama of recon-
struction days, but was demolished to make way for the present structure.
Opposite is the handsome marble front building known ns the "Tulane-Mew-
Comb," which las been lately erected by the administrators of the Tulane

107

University Fund. The business offices of the University are in this .build-
ing-. The remaining- portions are let as offices.

On Camp Street, in the middle of block, between Gravier Street and Nat-
chez Alley, stands the four-story granite building occupied by

The Picayune.

The Picayune in, with the exception of the French daily, L'Abeille, the oldecsl
paper in Louisiana. It shares with L'Abeille and the Deutsche Zeitung tlie
honor of being the only publications which survived the Civil War. The Pica-
yune was founded in January, 1837, by George Wilkins Kendall and Francis
Lumsden, two rractical printers. The paper was at first a four-page folio, with
four columns td the page. It was so successful that it was found necessary

iiri i iiiMj ii r ■ii . L i MLi ii n i fffi ir i .i' i M jim . I

■~ 1 .. .. ». V v. V i. .. i- 1

^a&y'^-.

PICAYUNE S BUILDINGS.

within a few months to enlarge the sheet, and it continued to grow till it hag.
reached its prereut dimensions. The present site has been occupied since 1847.
After the death of Mr. Lumsden, who was drowned in Lake Erie, in 1800, Mr.
Kendall continiied the publication of the Picayune with Messrs. Holbrook and-
Bullitt. Upon the death of Mr. Kendall, in 1867, Mr. Holbrook acquired the
sole control. Mr. Holbrook died in 1870, and his widow, whose maiden name
was Eliza .Jano Poitevent. known to the world of letters as the sweet Southern
poet, "Pearl Rivers," took charge of the paper and managed it successfully,
with the assistance of Mr. George Nicholson, a man of exceptionally fine busi-
ness talent, who had been business manager of the Picayune for many years.
In 1878 Mrs. Holbrook and Mr. Nicholson were married and the firm name
became Nicholson & Co. Mr. Nicholson died in February, 1896, and within
ten days his wife followed him to the grave. Side by side they sleep in Metairie
Cemetery. The Picayune is now managed under the title of "Estate of Mrs.

108 •

E. J. Nicholson," in the interest of her two sons, Leonard K. and Yorke P.
Nicholson.

The Picayune has had a most eventful history during its long existence of
sixty-five years. Mr. Kendall brought the paper into great celebrity during the
Mexican War, representing it in the field with the army of invasion, and thus
being entitled to the honor of being the first of the now numerous tribe of war
correspondents. He succeeded, by means of a pony express, in getting news to
the Picayune, and through it to the world, in advance of even the Government
dispatches. Mrs. Nicholson's management of the paper was exceptionally bril-
liant, and she is entitled to the honor of having been the first woman in the
world who successfully managed a great daily. The recent enterprise of
the Picayune, equipped as it is with the most modern and improved machinery
that science has devised for newspaper production, has been worthy of its
early fame. During the great and disastrous storm at Chgniere Caminada, in
1893, it was not only the first to give the full news of the catastrophe, but char-
tered a steamboat to send food and clothing supplies to the sufferers. It took
the initiative in New Orleans in providing and securing subscriptions for the
sufferers of the late great disater at Galveston, helped to organize the ladies of
the city into a relief association and sent money, clothes and medicine valued at
$50,000 to thie relief of the storm-stricken people.

During the recent war with Spain it was represented in the field by two
staff correspondents, and by alliance with the New York Herald secured un-
rivaled special cable service. In the midst of all the changing events of more
than sixty years the Picayune has appeared regularly every morning except
during the year 1864, when, for a brief period, the oflSces were in the hands of
the military authorities and the publication was suspended. In addition to the
daily, the Picayune issues a twice-a-week edition, and annually at Mardi Gras
publishes several beautifully illustrated editions, known far and wide as the
"Carnival Editions." Within the past ten years the Picayune has devoted
itself sedulously to educating the South in the importance of building cotton
mills in the regions where the staple is produced. In this crusade it has, at
large expense, sent members of its staff to various parts of the Union, and
especially to North Carolina and New England, to study the milling enterprises,
which have been so successful there. Entirely at its own cost the Picayune sent
Mr. Hargrove, one of these correspondents, to deliver addresses in Mississippi
and Louisiana, setting forth the result of his investigations. The Picayune
reprinted the articles and letters of these correspondents in two pamphlets, of
which more than 45,000 copies were distributed, free, throughout the South,
Nothing can be more gratifying to the Picayune than the appreciation of its
efforts in its home city. It may interest the tourist to know that the Picayune
derives its name from an old Spanish coin called "picayon," which was in cir-
culation in New Orleans in the early part of the century. Its valuation was
about 6 1-4 cents. The price of the paper when originally published was a
picayune. The five cent coin that superceded the Spanish under American
coinage was designated by the Creoles as a picayune. The term, so picturesque
and quaint, is still heard frequently in New Orleans among buyers and sellers
in the old French Quarter.

Parties not exceeding eight or ten in number, who desire to view the
Picayune's complete composing room, with its rows of linotype machines, the
wonderful press and the stereotyping department, which are among the most
instructive sights in the city, are welcome.

Poydras' Street is worth a visit. It is particularly interesting near the
river. Lively traflSc is maintained on the' sidewalks in country produce be-
tween the retailers and the commission merchants.

The Produce Exchange is at the corner of Poydra,s and Front.

Odd Fellows' Hall, on Camp Street, between Poydras and Lafayette
Streets, houses many of the lodges of that order. The second floor is occupied
by a large hall, often used for concerts, theatricals and balls. One
of the most remarkable scenes in the' history of the State was enacted here in
1877. It was the last act in the tragic drama of the so-called "Reconstruction
Era." On Jan. 1, of that year the Legislature assembled and the Democratic
members who constituted the lawfully elected majority, marched in a body to
the Hotel Royal, which was then the State House. They were refused admis-
sion by the" Radical Administration, and found the entrance guarded by armed

109

men. They retired to St. Patrick's Hall and organized, and on January S»
swore in the legally elected Governor of Louisiana, Francis T. Nicholls.

At the same time the Kadical usurper. Packard, was inaugurated in the
same oflBce in the Hotel Royal. The day after inauguration. Governor Nicholls
directed the citizeh soldier.v as they took possession of the pubhc buildings of
the city. The Packard Government was besieged for two mouths, and Federal
support being withdrawn, finally yielded to the popular voice. The inauguration
of Governor Nicholls was the turning point in the later history of the State.

In the square between Poydras and Lafayette Square there stood, until
destroyed by fire some years ago, the famous "Moresque Building," considered
one of the most beautiful specimens of Moorish architecture in the South. The
exterior was of iron, cast at Holly Springs, Mis,s., and wrounght into beautiful
Oriental designs in keeping with the style of architecture.

Immediately in front of Odd Fellows' Hall is

Lafayette Square.

It was named after General Lafayette.. In the centre of the square stands
the monument erected in 185G to the "Mill Boy of the Sloshes," Henry Clay.
The statue is 12 feet high and is of bronze. It was sculptured by the famous
Kentucky artist, Joel T. Hart. Until recently Clay Statue stood on the neutral
ground at the intersection of Canal, St. Charles and Royal Streets. This spot
is commonly regarded as the center of the city. Clay Monument figured in the

HENRY CLAY MONUMENT — LAFAYETTE SQUARE.

annals of New Orleans as the great gathering place of the people when bent
on business of serious public import. The great revolution of 1874 was pre-
cipitated by a speech delivered at Clay Statue, and the lynching of the Mafia
members in 1891 resulted from two addresses pronounced on the same spot.

The increasing car traffic of the city, and the network of railroad lines
that circled about the monument made the vicinity dangerous to human life, and
finally, sentiment yielded to reason and the monument was removed by act of
the City Council in 1901 to this abiding place in Lafayette Square. It replaced
the statue of Benjamin Franklin, which wa.s moved from the center of the
square to the east side. This work is from the chisel of Hiram Powers, and was
presented to the city and erected in 1872. In the square stands the geodetie
stone erected by the Coast and Geodetic Survey. By it is located exactly
latitude 29:50:58 N. and longitude 90:04:09 W.

On the west side of the square, facing the City Hall, is the monument
erected by the public school children of the city to the great benefactor of the
public school system of New Orleans, John McDonogh.

Once a year, on the anniversary of McDonogh's death, the public school
children gather here and strew the moimd with flowers.

This thought is symbolized in the design of the monument.

At this point the visitor should cross the street and visit the

110

City HaH,

which stands at the coiner of Lafayette and St. Chai-les Street, overlooking
the square. The hall was erected in 1850 and is an imitation of the Temple of
Minerva, on the Acropolis, at Athens. It is built of marble. The noble Ionic
portico with its beautiful columns is very imposing. The pediment is orna-
mented by a bas-relief of Justice, surmounted by figures emblematic of Com-
merce and Manufacture. A spacious marble hall extends the entire length of
the building. To the left of the entrance are the Mayor's offices. Magnificent
portrait3 of George Washington, Andrew Jackson and former Mayors of New

CITY HALL.

Orleans aiorn the walls. The handsome apartment on the right was formerly
used as a library. Just beyond the stairs on tlio riglit is tiie Council Chamber.
Here the body of Jefferson Davis was laid in state previous to temporary inter-
ment in Metairie Cemetery. The City Archives are on the fourth floor. In the
basement are the ofEces of the City Treasurer, Comptroller, etc. An interesting
rcom in this section is the headquarters of the fire-alarm telegraph. Many stir-
ring events have transpired in and around the hall. In ISUl the many Con-
federate regiments departing for the war received their colors in front of this
building. From the steps they heard soul-stirring addresses, notably those of
Dr. Palmer and Father Hubert, distinguished members of the New Orleans
clergy, who followed as chaplains. In 1862 Captain Bailey came hither at the
command of Admiral Farragut to demand the surrender of the city to the Fed-

■oral forces. An angry crowd assembled about the building while Bailey was
within and it was only by barricading the doors with furniture that it was kept
out and the gallant sailor saved from its fury. He made his escape unobserved
by a rear door.

During Mardi Gras time a spacious platform is built over the steps of the
fcall, on which hundreds sit to witness the parades. The Mayor receives the
King of the Carnival in the hall on Mardi Gras Eve, and delivers to him the
keys of the city on a velvet cushion, and in return receives from the merry mon-
arch a decoration and the title of Duke of the Realm.

At the corner of Camp and Lafayette stands the

City Library.

The building it occupies was formerly known as St. Patrick's Hall. The
new library was opened in January, 1S97, and was created by the merging into
one of the library established under the P^isk bequest and the old city library,
which formerly had its quarters in the City Hall. The library has an annual cir-
culaiiou of about 100,000 books. Seven hundred of its volumes are in foreign
languages. It is said to have the most perfectly lighted reading-room in the
world. Here may be seen carefully preserved in a glass case two volumes of
the "Vie de Caesar," by the Emperor Napoleon III, which were presented by
the author to the city.

The location of the new Post Office will be on Camp and Lafayette
Streets, upon the site now occupied by the City Library'. The latter build-
ing was sold by the City to the United States after the Post Office Commis-
sion had decided that this would be the most elig-ible .site lor the erection of
the new building-. From the proceeds of the sale a new librarj'^, complete
and modern in ever3' detail, will be built. The site will probably be in the
vicinitj' of Lafjiyette Square. The location of the new Post Office will be
an ideal one, good and convenient especially for business purposes. The
erection of the building- will vastly improve the vicinity of Lafayette Square
and the whole of lower Camp Street. The erection of a separate Post Office
building- has become an actual necessity in New Orleans, so great has been
the progress within the last few years. The United States, appreciating
this fact, appropriated a sum sufficient wherewith to purchase a site. The
appropriation of the building proper has yet to be made by Congress.

The Christian Womau's Exchange is diagonally across from the library on

the corner of South and Camp Streets. The handsome browu edifice on the

upper side of the .square is the First Presbyterian Church. It was over this

congregation that the noted divine, the late Dr. H. M. Palmer,

presided from 1856 to May, 1902. The First Presbyterian Cliurcli, in ils

i^ventful history as a congregation, represents the growth of I'roi^hytorianism in

New Orleans. The first effort to plant Presbyterianism in New Orleans

originated strangely enough with the Congregationalists of New England.

In 1817 the Connecticut Missionary Societ}' engaged a missionary to tour

the Southwestern States and inquire into religious conditions. As a result

•of his investigations, the Rev. Sylvester Larned was sent to New Orleans

in January, 1818. The City Council gave a plot of ground on St. Charles

Street, between Union and Gravier, as a site for a Presbyterian Church,

and Dr. Larned succeeded in negotiating a loan of .^40,000 for the erection

of the edifice. In 1820, Mr. Larned placed the number of communicants in

his church at 40. Dr. Larned died in 1820. Eighteen months

later Dr. Theodore Clapp, a famous graduate of Yale and of the Theological

Seminary at Andover, came to preside over the Church. Dr. Clapp liquidated

the debt of the church by means of a lottery which he established, and by a

personal donation of $20,000, which he received from Judah P. Touro, a prince-

Iv merchant of Jewish faith, who became his warm friend through life. Dr.

Clapp's mini-stry was a very troubled one, from the suspicions entertained of

his doctrinal unsoundness. In 1824 he declared his faith was shaken in tho

doctrine of future punishment, and doubts thickening upon him through yeare,

he was at length forced to plant himself in open hostility to the whole Calvan-

istic theology. Twice he was called before the "Sessions" of the Presbytery.

Finally, he was declared deposed from the miuistery of the Presbyterian

112

Church. But Dr. Clnpp was a A-ery brilliant man, and he carried the bulk of
the congregation and lii.s church property with him. and founded the Unitarian
Church in New Orleans. Presbyteriauism had received a great blow. It Lad;
to make a new start, and from beginnings quite as small as the first, for only
nine of the old congregation seceded from Dr. Clapp, and sought to reorganize
the First Church. These nine worshiped in a warehouse on Lafayette
Street, that was owned by Mr. Cornelius Paulding, and which was located on
the site now occupied by Dr. Palmer's Church. In 1835 Dr. Parker came to
minister to the congregation, and through his efforts a church c(;sting nearly

VIEW OF DR. palmer's CHURCH FACING LAFAYETTE SQUARE.

$70,000 was built. In 1854 the roll of communicants had reached 600. Thaj
same year the church was destroyed by fire, and the present handsome structure
was begun. In the meantime Rev. B. M. Palmer was called to the pastorate.
He arrived in December, 1856, and in 1857 the beautiful edifice, which still
stands the pride and monument of Presbyteriauism in New Orleans, was com-
pleted and dedicated. It cost in all its appointments, the sum of $87,000. No
man ever wielded a greater or more beneficent influence among his people than
Dr. Palmer, and his name and memory are inseparably associated with tta
church.

On Camp Street, between Girod and Julia, is

113

St. Patrick's Church.

The structure, which is Gothic in style, is worthy of the attention of the
fiitist or student, whether considered merely for its size or for the splendor of its
architecture. The plan of the church is an imitation of the famed York
Minster, and is regarded as being the happiest effort in this field in the United
States. The material is brick, rough cast, to simulate uncut stone. The
church was erected early in the fifties by the Irish colony in New Orleans. The
tower is 250 feet high and for many years "the four points of St. Patrick's
steeple" were the guiding compass for New Orleans. The interior of the
church is pure Gothic, with comparatively little ornamentation, except the
rtredos, which is very beautifully wrought. Back of the main altar is a very
effective copy of Raphael's "Transfiguration." On the "right is
a picture of St. Peter walking on the waves, and on the left, St.
Patrick baptizing the Kings and Queens of Ireland in Tara's Hall,
Among the beautiful pieces of statuary is the "Mater Dolorosa," which created
such interest in the religious art exhibit at the World's Fair in Chicago.

On Camp, between Julia and St. Joseph, is the Naval Brigade Armory,
a handsome structure recently erected at a cost of $20,000.

The Confederate Memoriai Hall

114

occupies the grassy mound near the corner of Howard Avenue and Camp
Street. It was presented to the city by Mr. Frank T. Howard, a philanthropic
citizen. The hall is a neat structure of pressed brick, now overgrown in many
places by creeping vines. The interior is finished in hard woods, and contains a
magnificent collection of relics of the Civil War. Among the more interesting
may be mentioned the uniform and sword of General J. B. Hood, the saddle of
General Bragg, the cradle and library of Jefferson Davis, portraits of Confed-
erate Generals, etc. Washington's telescope is in one of the cases in the center
of the hall.

Shortly after the death of Miss Winnie Davis her mother placed in Memo-
rial Hall the most precious souvenirs that she possessed of her lamented daugh-
ter. Among these are all the childhood toys and school books, and paintings of
the "Daughter of the Confederacy," her robe and crown and sceptre when she
was Queen of Comus in New Orleans in 1892, and the badges presented to her
by the various camps. Mrs. Davis also sent many personal souvenirs of Mr.
Davis, among others all the important documents of the Confederacy in her
possession, and the last suit of clothes and hat worn by Mr. Davis.

The cannon in front of the hall is the "Lady Slocomb," and was used at
Mobile in the Civil War. The building is used by the camps of the United
Confederate Veterans as a meeting place.

The Howard Memorial Library

is a beautiful structure, erected in 1887 by Mrs. Annie Howard Parrot, as a
memorial to her father, the late Charles T. Howard. The interior is finished
in polished woods. The reading-room is circular in shape, exquisitely paneled,
with carved rafters and ornamented in an extremely beautiful manner. The
library contains about 35.000 books, including many extremely rare volumes.
There is a collection of works bearing on the history of Louisiana, the like of
\^hich can nowhere else be found. Among tlie treasures of the library are

HOWARD MEMORIAL LIBRARY.

copies of almost all the original works of Audubon, man.v of which are now
very difficult to find. The collection of early maps of America is unique and
very valuable. Mr. William Beer, the librarian, is always pleased to exhibit
his treasures.

Two squares further on the car turns into Prytania Street. This is one of
the most beautiful residence sections in New Orleans. In the triangular-shaped
square which marks the entrance to the street stands a monument from which
looks down a woman with a little child at her side. This is

lis

riargaret Place,

and the statue is that of Margaret Haughery, the humble baker woman who
toiled all the long years of her life for the support and maintenance of the little
orphans of this city. She erected the asylum that faces the square, St. Vin-
cent's Infant Asylum, at the corner of Race and Magazine Streets, helped to
build St. Elizabeth's Industrial Home for Girls and gave everywhere and to
every needy child. Her small, bakery grew through her exertions into an im-
mense steam bakery, right in the center of the business life of the city,
and she became a great factor in that life. Everyone, from the banker to the

MARGARET MONUMENT.

newsboy, would salute her as she sat at the door of her oflSce of a morning, for
everyone honored and respected her. They knew the great golden heart that lay
beneath her plain and simple garb. She had never learned to read and write,
and yet she died as no woman in New Orleans ever before had died, giving
away thousands of dollars to the poor little orphans of the city. A simple
"Margaret Haughery (her mark)" was the signature to her will. No orphan
asylum was forgotten, Jew and Protestant and Catholic were all remembered,
for "they are all orphans alike," said Margaret, "and I was once an orphan
myself." She had a funeral such as no woman in New Orleans had ever had,
and almost before anyone could ever exactly tell how it began, the idea of a
monument seemed to be in every mind. The ladies of New Orleans met and

116

Hi — - 1

eft

^^^^^^^^^^^Biyi""*!*—

A VIEW IN PRYTANIA STREET.

undertook to raise the money, and one morning, almost before the people of
New Orleans, whom her presence had ennobled, and the little orphans whom
she loved so well could realize it, they woke up to see their good friend Mar-
garet sitting just as she used to do in life, in the same old chair apparently, in
her old familiar dress, in the grassy plot in the square where she used to
watch the orphans playing, in front of the home which she had built for them;
and around her shoulders the ladies had thrown, not the old shawl that she
used to wear every day, but "the state occasion shawl," as Margaret used to
call it, and which had been crocheted for her by the little 6-year-old tots of
St. Vincent's Infants' Home. The City Council, by a special act, called the
spot "Margaret Place." The monument is the first ever erected to a woman
in the United States.

The asylum overlooking the place is called the "New Orleans Female Or-
phan Asylum." It was first foimded in 1850 as a home to which the children
from St. Vincent's Infant Asylum may be transferred and educated, and these
in turn, as they grow older, are sent for special training in womanly work and
art to St. Elizabeth's Asylum.

St. Anna's Asylum,

is a handsome stuccoed structure at the corner of St. Mary and I'rytania
Streets. It was founded by Dr. Mercer, in memory of his only daughter, Anna,
as a retreat for poor gentlewomen, and was well endowed by him.

It is impossible to point out all the handsome houses on Prytania Street,
which thence on is principally a residence street, but several may be particularly
mentioned. At the comer of First and Prytania stands the mansion formerly
occupied by Bradish Johnson, and now owned by Mr. W. D. Denegre. It is a
r&re specimen of Southern architecture. At the comer of Prytania and Second
if. the home of Mrs. Ida Richardson, surroimded by grounds exquisitely kept and
filled with the rarest order of tropical vegetation, including many palms from
far Eastern climes. The hothouses are considered the most beautiful in the
South.

117

At Washington Street the car runs between the Washington Straat
Cemetery on the one hand and the

Southern Athletic Club

ou the other. This Club wa? one of the first founded in the South for the pro-
motion of athletics and amateur sports. It has a large membership among
the best classes. It belongs to the National Amateur Athletic Union. The
clubhouse is of wood, the interior being finished in hard native woods. The
gymnasium is 120x77 feet, and is fully equipped with every appliance for ath-
letic training. There are hot and cold baths, a swimming pool, boxing and
fenciu;? roocis, Tuikish and Russian baths, etc. In 1889 Kilrain trained at
this Club for his fight with Sullivan at Richburg, Miss., and in 1892 Corbett
trained here for his celebrated battle with Sullivan. It was to this clubhouse
that Corbett returned after the fight, to receive the congratulations of his
admirers. The visitors' book contains the autographs of many celebrities of
the sporting world.

Touro Infirmary,

an admirable inslilnticn sustained by the Jews of the city, and managed by
the Touro Infirmary and Hebrew Benevolent Association, occupies a square
on Prytania Street, between Delachaise and Aline. The Association under-
took the management and enlargement of Judah Touro's bequest for the
relief of the suffering and needy of New Orleans. The original hospital was
in tlic cotton pif^.ss disLiior, at the corner of Gaiennie and South Peters Streets,
but when the city grew away from this section the Association decided to build
a model hospital uptown, about twenty-seven years ago. Subse-
quently the management made many improvements, and a debt of $20,000
was incurred. To relieve this burden % great fair was given, in February,

1 I^^SH

^^B^il|^^n

- '~'m

v '•'^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^l

■■■^ .

TOURO INFIRMARY.

1895. The entire South contributed liberally, and the magnificent sum
of $00,000, net profts. was realized. This enabled the management to carry
out many cherished plans for the further improvement of the infirmary. The
hospital is built on the pavilion plan, amid lawns and gardens beautifully
kept. It has free clinics, and all nationalities and creeds are admitted to
their benefits. The hospital has accommodations for about 400 patients. Re-
cently the Infirmary management decided to still further extend its facilities,
and a new and more modern hospital building is contemplated.

Within the grounds stands a magnificent fountain, erected at a cost
of .•?.!;00, by the little Jewish children of New Orleans. On the same

118

PALMS IN PRIVATE GAKDEN — PRY-
TANIA AND SECOND STS.

PAOI TREE IN PRIVATE GARDEN-
PRYTANIA AND SECOND STS

grounds as the infirmary was built, in 1899, at a cost of $35,000, the
handsome three-storied brick structure known as the Julius Weis Home for the
Aged.

It was the generouis gift of the philanthropic Hebrew whose name it
bears. The Touro Infirmary Training School for Nurses is located in this
building.

In the block above the Infirmary is the Home for the Aged and
Infirm, conducted by the Little Sisters of the Poor. This is the uptown
branch of the noble institution, comer of North Johnson and Laharp*
Streets, in the French quarter. Between the two institutions nearly 600
old men and women, every one of whom is over 60 years of age, are cared for.
Both houses are well worth a visit.

The car now passes through a section full of small and pretty houses set
in gardens end shadod by trees. The line terminates at Audubon Park.

Upper Camp, for the purpose of this Guide, comprehends that section of the
thoroughfare lying above Calliope Street. The Magazine car will take the
tourist up Camp as far as Calliope, and thence through Upper to Old Camp, to
Louisiana Avenue, to Laurel Street, and thence to Audubon Park.

Beginning at Calliope Street, the visitor's attention is drawn to the hand-
some stone church occupied by the Episcopalian congregation of St. Paul's.
It stands ac the corner of Camp and Gaiennie Streets.

St. Paul's Church

was erected in 1893, on the site of an older structure, which was destroyed by
fire a year or so before. The interior of the church is very beautiful. Its most
remarkable feature is its tower, which is a reproduction of a famous structure
at Oxford, England. The church is expensively finished with pavements and
wainscot of colored marbles, and has a pleasing interior. This building was
erected under the eflScient management of the late Rev. H. H. Waters, who
was for twenty-seven years in charge of the congregation. This church has a
fine surpliced choir of boys and makes strangers welcome at its services.

ST. PAUL S CHURCH,

120

The asphalted walk in vhe center of the street, bordered witli grass plots
and shaded with small trees, is called Margaret Walk, in memoiy of Margaret
Haughery.

At the corner of Camp and Erato is St. Theresa's Church, a quaint
specimen of Dutch architecture.

The car then skirts

Coliseum Place,

a large, irregular park, almost a half a mile long, and beautifully laid out and
shaded with trees. It is a great playground for children and a fashionable
promenade in summer.

At the corner of Camp and Terpsichore is the Coliseum Place Baptist
Church, one of the oldest worshiping places of that denomination in the city.

Miss Sophie B. Wright's Free Night School for Boys is at the corner of
Camp and Race.

The Felicity Street Methodist Church, plainly visible from the cars, is
at the corner of Felicity and Chestnut Streets. It is a handsome brick stru::t-

COLISEUM PLACE.

ure and stands upon the site formerly occupied by a stately edifice of brick,
which was built about 1850, in the Grecian style, and which was burned
about eleven years ago.

At Felicity Street Cainp divides; one branch retains the name of Camp,
running uptown, and the other continues for two blocks, and intersects at St.
Andrew Street with Magazine. The latter Branch is called Old Camp. The .
Magazine car runs through Old Camp and turns into Magazine just beyond the
lower Magazine Market. This market is smaller than the French market,
and not so interesting.

The visitor will do well to leave the car at St. Andrew Street and visit the

Ecclesiastical Square.'

This comprises the group of schools, convents, churches and provincialate
of the Redemptorist Order on or near the corner of Josephine and Constance
Streets. There are the churches of St. Alphonsus and St. Mary's Assumption;
the residence of the Iled'-mptorist Fathers, who have built these churches,

121

the Convent of Mercy, St. Alphonsus' Free Library, the school for colored chil-
dren and other parochial schools and clubs.

St. Alphonsus' Church is on Constance Street, between St. Andrew and
Josephine. It is of pure Renaissance architecture, with two towers, the stee-
ples of which have never been completed. Over the main door, in a niche, is a
statue of St. Alphonsus,, to whom the church is dedicated. The edifice has a
seating capacity of 1,200. It was begun in 1855 and dedicated in 1858. The
visitor i,s struck immediately upon entering, by the profusion of ornamentation
and the beautiful frescoes on which the painter and the gilder have exhausted
the resources of their art. The main altar cost $8,000. Over this altar is a
very beautiful painting of St. Alphonsus, the work of a Roman artist. The large
building used for the parish school, library, etc., stands in the open area on the
downtown side of the church. The building cost $100,000, exclusive of its artis-
tic embellishments.

St. Mary',s Assumption Church is on Josephine, between Constance and
Laurel Streets. The belfry is 190 feet high, and is considered very
beautiful. It stands in the courtyard, near the side door of the

anothp:r vikw in coliseum place.

church. The church is Renaissance in style, with an exterior the
plainness of which contrasts well with the highly ornamental in-
terior. The ceiling Is covered with stucco traceries. The main altar, designed
and executed in Munich, cost $10,000 and is considered one of the handsomest
in America. The stained glass windows are very expensive and beautiful.
The pulpit is hung in a remarkable way.

The Convent of the Sisters of Mercy, on St. Andrew, between Magazine
and Constance, was erected in 1858. Attached to the convent is a Boarding
Home for Working Women, an orphanage and a Home of Mercy, where any
poor woman may find shelter and food till she can obtain employment.

Upper Magazine Street.

On Magazine, between Jackson Avenue and Philip, stands the second oldest
Presbyterian Church in the city — the Lafayette Church, built in 1843. For
over half a century Rev. Dr. Thos. R. Markham. who was a great Confederate

122

chaplain, was the rector. He was buried from this church. His monument
is in Metairie Cemetery.

On Magazine, between Washington Avenue and Sixth Street, is a build-
ing known formerly as the Garden District Theatre, now owned and occu-
pied by the First Baptist Church.

At the corner of Seventh and Magazine Streets is the upper Pythian Hall,
built about 1893 for the use of the Knights of Pythias.

On Magazine, between Seventh and Eighth Streets, is a handsome brick
structure, about which the vines clamber, suggesting peace and content. This
is the Seventh Street Protestant Orphans' Home; it is under the management
of a board of lady directors, and is ably conducted.

The Ninth Street Market stands at the corner of Ninth and Magazine.

At Louisiana. Avenue the car leaves Magazine and runs out to Laurel.
It proceeds up Laurel to the Audubon Park, stopping near the entrance to
the Horticultural Hall. This is the best line to take to reach the park.

The German Protestant Home for the Aged and Infirm is at No. 5919
Magazine. At No. 6126 will be found the Monastery of the Poor Clares.
This is a cloistered community of nuns, similar to the Discalced Carmelite
Nuns, whose home is in the old French quarter.

Adjoining the monastery on Henry Clay Avenue is the Home for In-
curables.

Three years ago the Louisiana Kings' Daughters undertook, through
the offering of a cent a daj^ for blessings received, to build an annex to the
Home. The sum of $10,000 has been raised through these "blessing boxes."
The new edifice will be erected during the year and will serve as the Ad-
ministration Building of the Home.

In returning by the Magazine line, St. Vincent's Infant Asylum, "Mar-
garet's Baby House.*' is pas^r.ed. This interesting institution is at the coru'^r
of Magazine and Race Streets. It is in charge of the Sisters of Charity.
It is the foundling asylum of the city, and contains at almost all times at least
200 children, infants in arms or babies just beginning to walk. No little moth-
erless or abandoned babe is ever refused admittance here. The neatness, order
and general perfection of the management are often commented upon admir-
ingly. One of the most interesting features of the Asylum is the perfectly
eqnipjjt'd kindergarttii and tht' nursery, where several hundred little tots
play about the floor or sleep in the pretty white-curtained beds, all unconscious
of what life has in s1ot<^ for them. In the pretty parlor on the first floor is a
picture of Margaret holding a babe in her arms. The memory of this gentle
mother of the orphans is very fragrant in the Asylum.

The lower portion of Magazine Street is occupied largely by factories or
wholesale grocery and produce stores.

The Maginnis Cotton Mills, which were incorporated in 1881, are on the '
corner of Annimciation and Calliope Streets, and their warehouse is at the
corner of Magazine and Lafayette Streets. Originally the mills had 15,360
spindles and 360 looms, making sheeting, shirtings, drills and osnaburgs. The
ready market for its product resulted in an enlargement of the plant in 1888,
when the most modern English machinery was purchased, increasing the
capacity of the mills three-fold. Even greater improvements have been made
since then, and there are now over 40,000 spindles and nearly 1,500 looms in
operation. These are kept going the year round, giving employment to over
1,000 people, many of whom are girls. The mill's output finds a ready market
from Boston to San Francisco, from Chicago to Texas, and certain grades
are shipped to China.

The Board of Trade has an entrance through the archway of Magazine
Street, between Natchez Alley and Gravier Street. The archway passes
through a three-story brick building, formerly known as the St. James Hotel.
The rotunda of this hotel was, before the War, the principal slave mart in
the city. The building is now occupied by offices.

The main office of the Southern Pacific Railroad is in the large gray build-
ing, witib massive Greek portico, at the corner of Natchez Allpy and Magazine
Street.

123

CHAPTER XIV.

Along the Coliseum Line, St. Charles, Carondelet,
Upper Magazine and Other Streets.

An interesting portion of New Orleans is that through which the Coliseum
car passes. The car starts at the Louisville and Nashville depot, near the
foot of Canal Street, and traverses the great boulevard as far as the corner
of Carondelet Street, into which it turns, proceeding thence to Clio, to Felicity,
to Coliseum, to Chestnut, to Louisiana Avenue, to Magazine and Broadway,
to Maple and Carrollton Avenue. It returns by way of Maple Street to
Broadway, to Magazine, to Calliope, and thence proceeds down St. Charles to
its starting point in Canal Street. From the many turns and zig-zags along
the winding route, it has often been called the "Snake Line."

Before beginning this long ride, which leads really through a very beauti-
ful and important section of New Orleans, the tourist will find it interesting
to walk from Canal Street to Poydras, stopping en route to inspect leading
points in the great commercial thoroughfares of St. Charles and Carondelet
Streets.

Carondelet is the Wall Street

of New Orleans. The cotton and stock brokers for the most part are established
along this street. Almost all the railroads have their oflBces in the neighborhood
of St. Charles and Common streets, as also the express and telegraph companies.
On St. Charles, one square fi-om Canal, between Common and Gravier,
is the

St. Charles Hotel.

The present hote; is Iho phopnix of three structures bearing the same
name that have successively risen upon this historic spot. The first St. Charles
Hotel was erected in 1835, at a cost of $700,000. It took three years to
build it. It was characterized by a magnificent portico of Corinthian columns,
from which a flight of marble steps led to the hotel. Its rotunda was world-
famed. A dome forty-six feet in diameter surmounted the edifice, which
was considered at that period one of the most beautiful in the world. Its
erection marked the beginning of the great hotels of America, and it was only
after some years that it was rivalled by the Astor House, of New York City.
A. Oakey Hall, afterwards Mayor of New York, wrote of it shortly after its
erection: "Set the St. Charles Hotel down in St. Petersburg, and you will think
it is a palace; in Boston, and, ten to one, you would christen it a college; in
London, and it would marvelously remind you of an exchange. In New
Orleans it is all three."

The hotel was the resort of the wealthiest planters of the South. Its
weekly balls were famous. In 1851 the building was destroyed by fire. Many
other buildings which were historic landmarks also passed away, among others
the First Presbyterian Church. The total loss was $1,000,000. Within two
days the directors of the hotel met and decided to rebuild. In twelve months
the new hotel was finished. This building was the scene of many stirring
events of the decade between 1851 and 1861. In its parlors Jefferson Davis and
a number of Southern leaders met on their way to the Charleston Convention
of 1860, and decided on the course they would pursue. The building had
been leased to Messrs. Hildreth and Hall. In 1862 the course of Mr. Hildreth
in refusing to give General Butler accommodations in the hotel came near
resulting in a serious street disturbance. Hildreth was a Northern man and

124

a relative of General Butler's wife. But he was intensely Southern in his
sympathies, and was an active member of the Confederate Guards. When
Butler reached the city, on May 2, he sent messengers to the hotel to ask for
rooms for himself and his staff. He soon followed, accompanied by a large
military guard. Mr. Hildreth declined to admit him, declaring that the hotel
was closed. Butler demanded the keys, which were refused him. In the mean-
while the angry crowd had gathered in the neighboring thoroughfares, hooting
the General and threatening him with personal violence. The crowd inter-
fered with the oflflcers who were trying to force their way into the hotel, but
was finally dispersed. Butler took refuge in the barroom, and there held
a conference with Mayor Monroe and the City Council. These gentlemen
agreed to do all in their power to maintain the peace. Butler finally succeeded
in obtaining possession of the hotel and opened it to his oflBcers. A few days
later he moved to the Twiggs House, and the lessees again obtained posses-
sion of their property. During the remainder of the war it was kept open. In
1865 many of the impoverished Confederates were entertained here free of
charge. The books showd that bills contracted by them to the amount of
$30,000 had never been sent out for collection. This historic building was
destroyed by fire April 28, 1894. A great deal of sentiment was attached
to the old hotel, and its desta'uction moved many to tears. From the ruins
of the famous old hostlery like magic sprang up the new St. Charles Hotel,
superb and modern in all its appointments. From the first glimpse of its chaste
red exterior, with palms and banana trees waving amid its colonaded walks,
to the beautiful palm gardens glowing with tropical verdure, the stately parlors
and marble-floored dining-halls, the hotel is a perpetual delight to the artistic
observer. It is the palatial fin-de-si6cle hostlery of the South. The most im-
portant event in its history was the entertaining of jcresident and Mrs.
McKinley and the Cabinet suite during their visit to New Orleans prior to the
President's assassination at Buffalo. Just back of the hotel are the two an-
nexes which g"ive it a capacity for 1000 guests. The hotel now ranks as the
fourth in size in the United States.

Directly opposite the Cotton Exchange, at the corner of Carondelet and
Gravier, will be seen in course of construction the handsome new building of
the Hibernia Bank and Trust ' Company. The building is

twelve stories high, and has a frontage of 140 feet on Carondelet Street, and a
depth of 100 feet on Gravier Street. It is not only the largest building
as to the amount of floor space offered in New Orleans, but one of the most
handsomely appointed edifices in the city. The first two floors are of
granite, and the remainder of the building of light brick or terra cotta
The total estimated cost is about $850,000. Work began on October 1,
1902. The Hibernia Bank and Trust Company occupies the first
floor, and the remainder is utilized as business offices, On the twelfth
floor a Merchants' Noonday Club will be put in, the membership of which is
expected to reach seven or eight hundred.

At the corner of Common and Carondelet Streets, on the river side, stands
the handsome building owned and occupied by the

Liverpool and London and Globe

Insurance Company. As will be seen by the accompanying illustration, it is
one of the most notable of the city's business buildings. It was erected at
great expense and is viewed with great interest by strangers on accojnt of the
architectural beauty and finish of both exterior and interior. The company's
general offices are on the first floor, and here is handled the large business com-
ing to it from the six States under the jurisdiction of the local oflJce. In erect-
ing this building the company has shown its desire to be regarded as a local in-
stitution and its great faith in the future of New Orleans. A second building
has recently been erected as an annex, similar in point of architecture and
finish to the main building. During the fifty-four years of its honored exist-
ence in this country this great corporation -has paid out $90,000,000 in
losses. Such a record, added to a wide-spread reputation for

125

liberal dealing and undoubted solvency have gained for the company the full
confidence of the insuring public.

The State Board of Health has its office on the second floor. This Board
controls the elaborate quarantine system by irhich contagious diseases from the
Latin-American ports are prevented from entering the United States.

The handsome building- with classic exterior at the north-west corner
of Carondeler and Common is the headquarters of the Commercial Bank and
Trust Company, recently erected.

LIVERPOOL AND LONDON AND GLOBK INSURANCE CO.'S BUILDING.

On the lake md^ cf Carondelet and Common Streets are the Hennen Build-
ing and its annex, the Cora Building, which were erected at a cost of $300,000
in 1895 by Alfred Hennen Morris, son of the late John A. Morris. The building*
are used for offices. The City Board of Health has its office in the Cora build-
ing, which is just back of the Hoinicn.

126'

The Stock Exchange is located in the Denegre Building, which is at No.
221 Carondelet Street.

At the corner of Gravier and Carondelet stands the

Cotton Exchange,

whicii is a fine specimen of the Renaissance style of architecture, and is con-
sidered very beautiful. It is built of cream-colored stone. The cost of erection
was $380,000. The Cotton Exchange was organized in 1871, with a member-
ship of 100. It has now about 500 names on its roll. The Exchange proper occu-
pies a beautiful apartment superbly frescoed with scenes from the history of
Louisiana. Futures are sold around the small fountain at one end of the room.
The Exchange enforces obedience to its rules for sampling, buying, selling and
delivering cotton, and settles all disputes by arbitration. Reports of the
receipts of cotton at all ports, exports and imports, meteorological and crop
reports, and other indispensable information are daily posted on the blackboards.
The upper floors of the building are occupied by business oflices. A small gal-
lery, accessible from the stairway or elevator, is open to visitors. A fine view
is obtainable from the roof of the building. There is a time-ball on the roof,

COTTON BXCHANGE.

regulated by telegraphic communication with Washington. It is dropped daily
at noon. The Bureau of State Engineers, where the engineering work of the
Louis iana Levee system is done, is located in this building.

Immense commercial interests combine to make all this section of Gravier,
Common, Carondelet and St. Charles one of the busiest business sections of
New Orleans.

The United Fruit Company occupies the large building at the corner of
St. Charles and Union Streets. This site is famous as the one occupieu lor
so many years by the Louisiana State Lottery Company.

Adjoining is the building of the People's Homestead Association, the oldest
of the homestead associations in New Orleans, the success of which gave inspi-
ration to the many other homestead companies that are now established in this
city.

127

The Masonic Temple, a stately edifice in brick, is at the comer of Perdido
and St. Charles Streets. The statue on the upper corner pinnacle is of bronze
and represents Jacques de Molay. The upper floors are reserved for lodge
rooms. The Grand Lodge of Louisiana lias its offices here.

The St. Charles Orpheum,

one of the finest of the new modem theatres of New Orleans, occupies the site
of the famous St. Charles Theatre, so often called the "Old Drury." The
history of this old theatre, which was destroyed by fire in 1899, extended back
over a period of sixty years. It was erected in 1835 by James Caldwell, the
scholar and actor, who built the first American theatre in this city in Camp
Street in 1823. The cost of the old building was $350,000. Its history was in
a great measure the history of the English drama in New Orleans. Such
famous stars as the elder Booth, Keane, Macready, Ellen Tree, Patti, Tom
Placide, Joseph Jefferson and Mr. and Mrs. Vance acted here. From the ruing
of the old theatre there rose this splendid modern playhouse, superb in all its
equipments, and erected at a cost of $150,000 by Dr. Geo. K. Pratt. It fully
sustains the reputation enjoyed by its ancient ancestor.

The ruins of the Audubon Theatre, known in other days as the

Academy of Music,

are in the same square. The building was erected in 1853, and that same
year the renowned circus man, Dan Rice, opened the theatre. It had a
portable stage, and its character as an amphitheatre was retained until
1854, when the Old Varieties, where Mr. and Mrs. Dion Boucicault were
to act, burned down. The late David Bidwell, who had assumed their man-
agement, and who .subsequently became the owner of this, as well as the
St. Charles Theatre, immediately leased and renovated the building and
named it the Pelican Theatre. Shortly after he gave it the name of "Academy
of Music," which it bore until the appellation '"Audubon," was given it
by a popular vote. In former times its attractions included a museum of natural
curiosities. The theatre was destroyed b}' tire, Februarj' 11th, 1903.

The Hotel Denechaud, noted for its excellent Creole cuisine, is at the
corner of Carondelet and Perdido Streets.

In Perdido Street, between Carondelet and Baronne, is the Pythian Hall,
where most of the Pythian Lodges are located, and where the Grand Officials
of the Order have their offices.

Taking the car at this point in Carondelet Street, one passes en route,
between Poydras and Lafayette, the "Jewish Right Way" Synagogue. This is
tho worshiping place of the orthodox Jews.

Between Lafayec+e and Girod is the Carondelet Street Methodist Church,
the oldest Methodist Church in the city. It was built shortly before the
Civil War, through the liberality and the exertions of Messrs. McGehee and
Hill, two prominent Methodists. The church is of brick, and has an Ionic
portico, and is covered by a graceful cupola, modeled after the monument of
Lysicrates, in Greece. Bishop J. C. Keener, the Senior Bishop of the South-
ern Methodists, often preached here.

At 731 Carondelet is the New Orleans Sanitarium and Training School
for Nurses. A handsome addition was recentlj' erected at a cost of §39,000.

The Touro Synagogue

is situated on Carondelet Street, between Julia and St. Joseph, it is ot
Grecian design, and is named after the philanthropist, Judah Touro, who
settled in New Orleans in 1801, and died in 1854, leaving an immense fortune,
OTcr $400,000 of which was, by the terms of his will, distributed among the
religious and charitable institutions of the city. Mr. Touro was a sincerely

128

relifeious man, and associated himself with a body of Jews who were accustomed
to meet for religious services at the home of a gentleman named Andrews,
which occupied the site adjoining the Howard Library, on Camp Street,
where now stands a neat, one-storied frame residence. In 1845 Mr. Touro

TOURO SYNAGOGUE.

purchased the building on the corner of Canal and Bourbon Streets, which had
up to that year been occupied by the Episcopal congregation of Christ Church.
This was converted into a synagogue and presented to his coreligionists.
They used it for several years, but disposed of it to remove to the present
structure, which is interesting as reproducing with considerable exactness the
original home of the venerable and wealthy congregation. In 1882 Touro Syna-
gogue and the old congregation of the Gates of Mercy, organized in 1828, and
the oldest in the city, consolidated.

The congregation has subsequently been known as the "Gates of Mercy
of the Dispersed of Judah." In memory of its great benefactor, the name
of Mr. Touro was bestowed upon the place of worship. A special prayer for
Mr. Touro has been inserted in the memorial services on the Day of Atonement,
and at each annual recurrence of the ceremony the entire congregation rises
and remains standing while the rabbi pronounces the solemn sentences.

Rev. I. L. Leucht is the presiding rabbi. The synagogue is noted for its
beautiful music and excellent choir.

The Temple Sinai

stands on Carondelet Street, near Howard Avenue. This congregation was
founded in 1871. The first rabbi of the congregation was Dr. J. K. Gutheim,
one of the most eloquent and learned men of his time. This congregation, like
that of Touro Synagogue, is composed of reformed Jews. The building is deco-
rated in the Byzantine style, and is very beautiful. The music and chanting
here are always very fine. Rev. Max Heller is the presiding rabbi.

129

Tlie third Hebrew congregation was founded in 1850, and erected a
, nagogiie, wiiich it still retains, corner of Jackson and Chippewa Streets.

^ -— * -* 'itfiiijif

TEMPLE SINAI.

The German Evangelical Lutheran Church is on Clio, near St. Charles
Avenue.

Further up along this line are many handsome residences. It is the most
beautiful part of the Garden District, and the visitor should notice the luxu*
riance of the flowering shrubs, which blossom even in the depths of winter.

At Washington Street the car passes

The H. Sophie Newcomb

Memorial College for Young Women. This is the female department of the
Tulane University. The college occupies a whole square. The handsome
central building facing on Washington Street was formerly known as the Burn-
side residence, having been the home of an eccentric millionaire of that nama
It was built originally by James Robb, a great banker of ante-bellum days,
in imitation of the country seat of an English nobleman. The house at one
time contained a celebrated collection of pictures, including many paintings from
the gallery of Prince Jerome Bonaparte, at Bordentown. N. J. These pictures
were sold to local dealers some eight years ago. The upper story of this
building was added after the purchase by the University. The lower floor con-
tains several rooms with the original frescoes.

130

Tbe H. Sophie Newcomb Memorial Room is worth a visit, if only to see
the magnificent reflecting mirrors of old Moorish design, said to be the finest
in the United States. This room also contains all the childhood souvenirs of
Haryott Sophie Newcomb, who died at the age of 15, in 18GG. She was an only
child, and her mother, Mrs. Josephine Louise Newcomb, has commemorated her
in this magnificent gift. Mrs. Newcomb first donated upward of $450,000 to
the college, which she placed under the auspices of Tulane University; at her
death, in 1900, she left her vast estate to the college. The grounds contain
magnificent live oaks, a tennis court, and grouped around are the
Newcomb High School, which is preparatory to the college, the
art building, gymnasium, pottery building and chapel. The pottery build-
ing, which is directly opposite the Camp Street entrance to the college,
has its own kiln, and the manufactures are all of Louisiana clay. In the art
building is a rare collection of old paintings, and some quaint curios, among
others illuminated missals from the fourteenth century. A marble statue of St.
George, costing $5,000, adorns the art building. The beautiful little chapel,

H. SOPHIB NEWCOMB MEMORIx\L COLLEGE.

in which services are yearly held in memory of H. Sophie Newcomb, contains
several handsome stained glass windows by Tiffany, among others a representa-
tion of the "Resurrection Morn," said to be the finest piece of work ever sent
out by Tiffany, and which adorned the chapel exhibited by this company at
the World's Exposition in Chicago, in 1893. The Newcomb library is constantly
growing, and now numbers about 10,000 volumes. Opposite the college is the
Newcomb dormitory, recently built and donated to the college by Mrs. Newcomb
as a home for the students, and just around the corner stands the private resi-
dence of the generous' donor, which, since her death, has been made an annex
to the college dormitory.

At the comer of Chestnut and Louisiana Avenue is the Catholic Church of
Our Lady of Good Counsel, built in 1892.

The Cumberland Telephone Company has recently erected a handsome
new building in the square bounded by Coliseum, Foucher, Camp and
Chestnut.

At the corner of Louisiana Avenue and Magazine is the Louisiana Avenue
Methodist Church, erected in 1895.

131

The Valence Street Baptist Church is on the corner of Valence and Maga-
zine.

At No. 5116 Miigazine, between Soniat and Dufossat Streets, is the South-
ern University, for the education of colored persons. Coeducation is in fore*
here. The school is excellent and the instruction of an advanced character.

The handsome brown brick building embowered in foliage, on Magazine
Street, between Leontine and Peters, is the

Poydras Asylum,

foimded in 1817, through the liberality of Julian Poydras. The Asylum was
the outgrowth of a peculiar and pathetic incident dating back to the year 1817,
when an immigrant vessel came to New Orleans with cholera on board and
twenty little children who had been rendered fatherless and motherless by the
ravages of the terrible scourge while the vessel was at sea. A kind-hearted
gentleman stated the circumstance to Mrs. M. A. Hunter, mother of the cele-
brated Commodore Hunter, and she at once sought to enlist the sympathies of
other women in their behalf. She gathered the little waifs into a rented hou3e,
when Julian Poydras heard of their condition and donated a home for them on
the comer of Julia and St. Charles Streets, where the house known as the
Spofford property stands. The property was subsequently leased out for a
period of fifty years, and in 1905 it will revert to the Asylum.

POYDRAS ASYLUM.

Julian Poydras was a young Frenchman who came to New Orleans from
San Domingo in the days of Governor Galvez. He was a poet and a scholar,
but he was very poor. He was not ashamed, as the old traditions run, ta
carry a pack on his back, and furnished himself with a peddler's stock and
traveled up the coast on foot all the way to St. Louis, thus beginning the com-
mercial connections of the great Mississippi Valley. Out of his industry came
wealth, honors, slaves, plantations and a colonial home. He is recalled in
Oeole traditions as a courtly gentleman, who always dressed in the Louis XV
style. At his ancient villa, near where the Poydras market now stands, he
entertained the most distinguished persons, among others the sons of Philip
Egalite, when they came to New Orleans. But it is also related of him that
his villa was ever open to peddlers, and an old Creole chanson says that "no
man with a pack on his back was ever turned from the door of Julian Poydras."
In 1817 he founded the Poydras Asylum, erecting it out of his own means.
He munificently endowed the Asylum at his death. In 1836 the present build-
iqg was erected, at a cost of $90,000. It was first placed in the charge of the
Sisters of Charity, but at his death the institution passed entirely under the
control of the Presbyterian Directory, and the government was transferred to
a Board of Lady Managers. The institution is beautifully kept. In the rear

132

are extensive vegetable gardens, which supply the Asylum. Upon the walls
of the reception room hang the pictures of Julian Poydras and Mrs. Hunter.

Parker Chapel is the small wooden church at the corner of Magazine and
Peters Avenue.

The German Protestant Home is at the corner of Magazine and Eleonore.

The German Orphan Asylum is on State and Magazine.

Audubon Park is the site of the Cotton Centennial Exposition of 1884.
ana the Horticultural Hall, where many beautiful tropical palms and exotics
bloom, is passed. The terminus of the line is at Carrollton avenue.

Returning, at No. 3043 Camp Street, the

Fink Home,

or Asylum for Widows is passed. This asylum was founded through the
bequest of Mr. John Fink, a wealthy but eccentric gentleman, who
died some years ago. Mr. Fink was an old bachelor, and the story runs that
m his youth he fell in love with a beautiful New Orleans girl, who rejected his
suit, decln'in.s,' thnt she did not believe in girls marrying. She told him
that she thought that they should become old maids, and thus remain free
to work out their own individual destinies. It is related that Mr. Fink pleaded
and pleaded, but in vain. The lady remained firm. He therefore shut himself
off entirely from the society of ladies, and at his death left a large sum of
money to found the "Fink Home for Widows." Down at the end of his testa-
ment he added a special restrictive clause, forbidding the entrance into this
Home of "any old maid, no matter how aged or dependent she was or neces-
sitous her circumstances." He closed this singular testament with the words,
"Let every old maid work out her own individual destiny." It was thus, the
Faubourg Ste. Marie declared, Mr. Fink revenged himself upon the fair but
cruel sweetheart of his youth.

At the corner of Camp and Foucher Streets is the Frank T. Howard
School No. 2, recently erected by Mr. Howard at a cost of nearly $60,000 as
a memorial to his mother.

At the corner of Camp and First Streets is a large old-fashioned brown
mansion, surrounded by magnificent trees. This is the home of Judge Charles
E. Fenner. It was in this house that Jefferson Davis, President of the
Confederate States, died in November, 1889.

At No. 815 St. Charles, near Julia, is the

Young Hen's Christian Association

Building. This commodious structure was erected in 1895, partly through the
liberality of Mr. J. H. Keller, a wealthy manufacturer. The reading-rooi% on
the first floor, is free to the public. The members of the Association Gave
access to an excellent gymnasium, swimming tank and baths, the use of the
parlors, dining-hall, etc. On the second floor is a large hall called the Helme
Memorial Hall. An observatory on the roof affords a splendid view of the
city.

Near the corner of St. Charles and Julia Streets, in the beautiful cultivated
garden spot on the river side of the street, there stood until 1902 the famous
Church of the Messiah, which was erected by the Hebrew philanthropist,
Judah P. Touro, in 1854, for the use of his friend, the celebrated Unitarian
minister, Dr. Theodore Clapp, when the latter's church was destroyed by fire
after his secession from Presbyterianism. The church cost $60,000. and was a
very curious piece of architecture. It was octagonal in form, and the aisles
and clerestory gave it a pleasing effect. This church was sold in 1902, and
from the proceeds of the sale the new edifice, corner of Dryades and Peters
Arenue, was erected. The old church was demolished.

Between Julia and Girod Streets stands the

Washington Artillery Hall,

where the famous Washington Artillery has its headquarters. It was away
back in 1838 that the "Native American Artillery" was organized in New
Orleans. In 1841 it attached itself to the Washington Battalion, and in 1844
this battalion was autxiented by the transfer from the Louisiaua Legion of
three companies, the Orleans Cadets, the Louisiana Grays and the Orleans

133

Grenadiers. Francis A. Lumsden, one of the founders and proprietors of the
Picayune, was the Captain of the latter company. The battalion became known
as the Washington Regiment, with General Persifer F. Smith as the command-
ing officer. In 1845, when the "Army of Occupation," under General Zachary

Tiij-loi-, was dispatc'aod to Texas, General Gaines, of the United States Army,
Do'paitment of the Sooth issued a call for troops. The Washington Battalion
responded and went to Mexico, near the Rio Grande. Shortly after the Mex-
ican War the battalion adopted the name of the Washington Artillery. When
the Civil War broke out the battalion was among the first to respond. It was
mustered into the service in Lafayette Square, and, marching to the old Christ
Church, in Canal Street, received a flag, presented by the ladies of New Orleans,
costing $1,000. Mr. Judah P. Benjamin made the presentation. The com-
mand ba-ed the first gun at Bull Run and brought up the rear at Appomattox.
After the collapse of the Southern cause, the survivors returned to their homes,
but the tie of comradeship and the pride of the old corps were too strong to be
kept down. As it was the reconstruction era and the Confederate soldiers were
not allowed to continue their military organization, the company took the
name of a benevolent association, whose object was to care for the needy and
to erect a monument to its dead. The handsome monument in Metairie Ceme-
tery tells its own story. Before the war the company's arsenal was located on
Girod Street, but this building was confiscated while the battalion was in the
Confederate service. In 1875 the Battalion of the Washington Artillery was
reorganized, and in 1880 Colonel John B. Richardson, who had been promoted
to the command, succeeded in purchasing the present spacious arsenal. This
hall was erected in 1872 as an exposition building, to afford a permanent place
for the exhibition of all li-.e manufactured articles used in the South. The build-
ing has a frontage of 85 feet and a depth of 341. The ballroom, on the second
floor, in which the Rex balls are given, is 200 feet long. The arsenal contains
some valuable relics of the Mexican and Civil Wars. Among the latter are
the magnificent flag, on which are the names of the sixty battles in which the
command participated, and a famous painting by Julio, valued at $5,000. It
represents the last meeting of Robert Lee and Stonewall Jackson at Chancel-
lorsville. The catafalque upon which the remains of Jefferson Davis were
borne to the grave occupies a conspicuous place in the arsenal.

Soule's Commercia' College is at the corner of St. Charles and Lafayette
Streets. The college was founded in 1856, and occupies a leading place among
the educational institutions of the city. The handsome new building, erected
in 1902, occupies the site ot an ancient structure which was one of the land-
marks of the American quarter.

Thence to Canal Street the car passes directly in front of the City Hall,
the magnificent mansion of the well-known public benefactor, Mr. Frank T.
Howard, which adjoins it, business houses and theatres, the St. Charles Hotel,
and railroad offices, and, turning from St Charles into Canal Street, passes the
Crescent Billiard Hall, a resort celebrated for the past forty years.

Tchoupitoulas Street.

Tchoupitoulas is mainly a business street, and the best way to see it is to
take the car which runs up the street from Canal to Audubon Park, The lower
part of the street nearest Canal is lined with immense groceries and ware-
houses. Further up are a number of foundries and metal working establish-
ments. Throughout the route glimpses may be caught from time to time of
shipping lying alongside the wharves.

The shot tower is at the corner of St. Joseph Street. It is the highest
tower in the city.

The heart of the cotton press district is next passed.

Near Louisiana Avenue are several grain elevators.

The Stuyvesant Docks are on the river front, between Delachaise and
Foucher Streets, and are of great interest. The elevator is of
gigantic size. A very elaborate system of grain carriers and rail-
way terminals exist. The elevator has a capacity of 1,000,000
bushels, or about 1.200 cars. If coupled together these cars would make a

134

chain eight miles long. The elevator can unload 250 cars a day, and at the
same time deliver, through an unequaled system of conveyors, to four steamships

STORING COTTON IN THE PRESSES.

at once. It is the largest, the best-equipped and busiest elevator in the United
States. In addition to the other facilities, there are wharves 1,500 feet in

length. ; i! i ;f|

Annunciation Street.

The Annunciation Street car follows the line of the Coliseum car, from
Canal as far as Erato Street. It diverges there to Annunciation. It will take
the visitor through a picturesque part of town. In the vicinity of Annunciation
Square it passes through the cotton press district, where, in the season,
thousands of bales of the fleecy staple are pressed and stored. Long rows of
bales may be seen banki-d along the sidewalk. The dull rumble of the presses
is constantly heard. If the visitor has never seen the presses in operation,
it will be well for him to visit one of the yards, where he will willingly be
admitted to see its wonders.

St. Simeon s ocuooi is tne fine old colonial building occupying the entire
square on Annunciation, near Erato Street. It is in charge of the Sisters of
L/iiarity.

A detour is made around Annunciation Square. This square was pre-
sented to the city by a private citizen. On the woods side is the beautiful resi-
dence of the late E. J. Hart.

Just opposite the square, on the river side, are St. Michael's Church, pres-
bytery and parochial schools.

At the corner of Orange and Annunciation the visitor will notice an old-
fashioned wooden residence, with pillared veranda and dormer windows. This
was formerly the Stanley residence.

Mr. Stanley was a cotton merchant of a charitable disposition. He adopted
Henry M. Stanley, the famous explorer, who at that time was a destitute

135

INTEKIOK OI-^ A COTTON PKKSS.

orphan. Stanley's name was assumed by the boy in lieu of his own, which
was originally John Rowlands.

Clay Square is on Annunciation, between Second and Third Streets.

Peters Avenue and Dryad es.

These cars, which start on Canal, near the river, traverse the least at-
tractive part of the city. Going up town, the route is through South Rampart
and South Liberty Streets. Above Louisiana Avenue, where the car enters
Dryades Street, and in Peters Avenue, there will be noticed indications of the
rapid growth of the city. A few years ago these two streets boasted very few
residences of any sort; now they ai-e being rapidly built up, and within a brief
period will be numbered among the most attractive in the city.

At the corner of Peters Avenue and Dryades Street is the new

Unitarian Church.

This building was erected in 1902, and represents the congregation founded
oy Dr. Theodore Clapp when he seceded from the Presbyterian Church in 1833,
and carried the bulk of his congregation and the church property with him.
The history of this congregation has already been referred to, as also the old
church edifice which stood for so many years near the corner of St. Charles and
Julia Streets; from the proceeds of the sale was erected the present build-
ing. Though much smaller than the old church, it is better adapted to the
needs of the Unitarian congregation.

At the corner of Peters Avenue and South Rampart stands the Isidore
Newman Manual Training- School, the gift of a philanthropic citizen of that
name to the Jewish Widows and Orphans Home Association for the manual
training of the orphans in the Jewish Home.

The cars stop at the upper station, corner of Arabella and Magazine, within
sight of the huge rectangular brick building, the Louisiana Retreat, an' insane
asylum conducted by the Sisters of Charity. This building stands at the corner
of Henry Clay Avenue and Coliseum, and is visible from all the street car lines
which run to the Audubon Park.

Returning, St. Mary's Dominican Convent, at No. 1107 Dryades Street,
and the Turnverein Hall, at No. 116 Clio, are passed.

At the corner of Calliope is the handsome Church of St. John the Baptist.
This is a Catholic Church; it stands between the Dominican Convent and St.
John Parochial School and Presbytery.

^ 13b

At Howard Avenue the car passes within sight of the Illinois Central
Passenger Station and the head of the New Basin Canal. This canal, by the
way. is exceedingly picturesque, filled almost all the time with schooners, and
lined with sawmills and wood yards.

At the corner of Lafayette and Dryades is a building of large proportions
and obviously once of aristocratic appearance. It was formerly the Turners'
Hall, but long ago was abandoned by that organization, being subsequently
used as a manual training school by Tulane University, and more recently by
a manufacturer of tinware.

Other points of interest are the Poydras Market and the office of the State
Medical Society, and the New Orleans Medical and Surgical Journal, over the
way.

CHAPTER XV.

The Port of New Orleans — Scenes along the Levee.

The visitor to New Orleans will have missed the most interesting as well
as important feature of this city should he fail to make a personal inspection
of the magnificent harbor known as the Port of New Orleans. For a distance
of fifteen miles along the city front there extends an almost unbroken line
of wharves and docks, sufficient to accommodate a vast fleet. Owing to
the great depth of the Mississippi River, ships are able to lie close alongside the
bank and load cargoes through all hatches at once. There is an equal stretch
of fifteen miles along the west bank of the river within the port limits, although
as yet only a moderate portion of this space available for shipping is used.

Along the harbor front there are five great grain elevators, extensive rail-
road terminals, including the famed Stuyvesaut Docks, belonging to the Illinois
Central Railroad. There are several fruit docks, with covered sheds, for the
handling of tropical fruit. Another conspicuous feature is the fine new coffee
dock, with its immense iron shed to protect freight from the weather. Along
the city's wharves will be seen some of the largest freight ships afloat.

The best way to see the river front is to walk along the levee. It is called
the levee because it consists of a great bank of earth thrown up to protect the
city from the invasion of the Mississippi, which at flood rises far above the
level of the streets. For many years, however, the river along most of the
front has withdrawn itself a good way from the original channel, so that many
so'id blocks of buildin;rs now stand where the Mississippi flowed when Bienville
first looked upon it. The constant additions made to the levee in consequence
cause a gradual slope up to the river front. The slope begins at a considerabU
distance back, and the ascent up hill is so gradual as to be imperceptible.

Many interesting sights attract along the river front.

Near the foot of Canal Street is the

Steamboat Landing,

where boats of all sorts and sizes, from the stately river packets which trade up
the river to Vicksburg. Memphis, Cairo and St. Louis, to the little stem-
wheelers which run up Red River and into Bayou Atdhafalaya and along the
lower Mississippi coast, are to be seen the year round.

Here the packets lie, busily receiving and discharging freight. The immense

loads of cotton and sugar which they take on, make them especially interesting

. to the stranger. It is very picturesque to see the throngs of darkies handling

these cargoes, and singing old plantation melodies or camp-meeting hymns as

they work away. When the vessels are loaded to the guards and are ready

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138

to leave a great shout goes up from the throng of laborers and roustabouts.
Then they turn their attention to the next big cargo.

The Sugar Exchange,

where the members conduct many of those operations which regulate the
price of sugar throughout the country is on the corner of Front and Bienville
Streets, The Exchange is a building of magnificent proportions.
Facing the levee are the salesrooms, vestibule and telegraph ofiBces;
on the second floor are the library, reading-room and museum and committee
rooms. The building throughout exhibits exquisite taste in ornamen-
tation. Upon the walls hang the portraits of Etienne de Bore, the first great
sugar planter of Louisiana, Don Antonio Mendes, who first granulated sugar
from cane in the old Parish of St. Bernard, and Jean Joseph Coiron, who in
1S.18 put up on his iilantation in Terre-aux-Boeufs the first steam engine ever
used to grind sugar, and in 1820 introduced from Georgia the red-ribbon cane
in place of the tender Creole variety. The New Orleans Sugar Exchange has

LEVEE SCENE — HANDLING SUGAK.

about 211 members, and wields a powerful influence in the commerce of the
State. In the vicinity of the Exchange are several great refineries, where the
crude products of the sugarhouses on the plantations are changed into the beau-
tiful white sugar that is seen on the table. They are worth a visit. Trees and
shrubbery adorn the triangular islet near the Bienville side of the Exchange.

The Fruit Landing

is just above Canal, near the head of Thalia Street, where almost any day may
be found vessels discharging great cargoes of tropical fruits, bananas, oranges,
l;>mons, mangos, pinoa pities, cocoanuts. etc. These are brought from ports on
the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean Sea. A. large quantity of this fruit,
especially the ripest of it, stops In New Orleans, where it finds a ready sale in
the markets at ridiculously low prices; but the great bulk of it is loaded into
cars right at the fruit wharves, and in a few hours after the arrival of the ship
is flying northward towards Louisville, Cincinnati, Chicago, St. Louis and other
cities, to be sold there.

139

At the corner of Levee and Toulouse stood until 1826, when it was destroyed
by fire, the old French Colonial "Government House."

LEVEE SCENE — HANDLING COTTON.

At the head of St. Louis Street are the wharves of the Southern Pacific
Railroad Company, which runs a regular line of steamships from this point to
New York. The steamships come here loaded with miscellaneous cargoes, and
carry off immense cargoes of cotton, sugar, molasses, rice, cotton seed oil and
other characteristic Southern products. Immense sheds will be erected during
1904.

At a short distance below are the wharves of the Harrison Line, which
trades between New Orleans and Liverpool, running two and three steamers
a week, and sometimes one a day, when the trade is very brisk.

Just in front of the French Market, along the Levee line, is the

Lugger Landing, or ** Picayune Tier."

Here the Dago fishermen from the lower coast land their cargoes of oranges
and oysters, and here gathers a swarm of luggers, with motley crews of traders,
hustling about unloading cargoes of oysters, fish, oranges, vegetables and all the
various offerings of the land and water along the bayous and lakes of the lower
Louisiana coast. When waiting for a cargo of some sort to set sail again they
loiter idly about, smoking cigarettes or cooking their meals over queer little
charcoal furnaces. The "Tier" is a picturesque sight.

At the foot of Hospital Street is the landing of the New Orleans and
Porto Rico Steamship Company, a line that has been established since the
American occupation of Porto Rico, and which is already bringing large con-
signments of coffee from this tropical island, carrying back principally cargoes
of Louisiana rice, which is fast finding a market in the island.

The Morgan Ferry Landing, where the Southern Pacific Company's freight
cars are transferred by ferries to the Algiers side of the river, is at the foot of
Elysian Fields Street. Transfers of passengers are made now at Avondale,
about nine miles up the river.

140

The ferries which ply between New Orleans proper and Algiers all have
their houses along the river front, at such convenient points as the foot of
Canal Street, the French Market, the foot of Esplanade, Jackson, Louisiana
Avenues and the foot of Richard Street.

Towards the lower limits of the port, on the Algiers side, is situated the

New Naval Station,

with its mammoth floating dry dock, the next largest dock of the kind in the
world. This immense structure is capable of raising high and dry a vessel of
18,000 tons displacement. It is over 500 feet long, and its inside measurement
between the side walls is 100 feet.

While the great dock was designed primarily to care for the ships of the
Navy, it is available for docking merchant ships of a greater size than the
local private docks can accommodate. By permission of the Navy Department,
a number of merchant vessels have already been docked, and other vessels can

NAVAL DOCK — NEW ORLEANS.

have the use of the dock whenever they desire, provided no naval vessels are
at the time waiting to go in the structure.

The British Government has recently built a dock for the Naval Station at
Bermuda, which is slightly larger than the dock here, but it has not as great
lifting capacity. A visit to the dock and Naval Station will prove instructive
and interesting. New buildings, making vast improvemenis, were erected
at the Station during \90'.i.

Quaintest of all in this ever-changing panorama along the levee are the

Batture Folks,

a queer people who live outside the revetment on the river side. The batture
is an alluvial elevation of the bed of the river caused by the constant washing
of the great stream towards the Algiers side. The batture is continually being
enlarged by the sandy deposits from the river, especially along the front from
Louisiana Avenue up the stream. As far back as 1807 this batture land was
-the subject of controversies between the owners of the soil along the river front

141

LEVEE SCENE UNLOADING RICE LADEN STEAMBOAT.

of the Faubourg Ste. Marie and the folks who came aud made their homes
there. In September, 1807 there occurred the "Batture Riots," and the eminent
jurist, Edward Livingston, represented private claimants, but was opposed by
the public in two distinct outbreaks.

ALONG THE LEVEE.

'JMie balture is peopled by quaint shifting people who come down the river
ill skiffs looking for homes. They build their houses along this deposit, under

142

the shadow of the levee, the most interesting settlements being from Louisiana
Avenue towards Carrollton. The houses are built like flatboats, on stilts, in
such a way that they are enabled to rise and float; for the batture is dry or
submerged, according to the season. Numerous floating galleries connect the
houses with the shore. When the batture is dry the people lay out little vege-
table gardens and pretty flower plots, that make their homes very picturesque
and attractive. They keep chickens and goats, and gain their living by going
out in skiffs, picking up driftwood and selling it in town. The batture is con-
sidered outside the city's limits, and is no man's land. The people living there
take advantage of this, paying no taxes or rentals. No sight in New Orleans
is more picturesque than these floating houses under the big wharves, rising
and falling with the stream. The batture people are very good-natured and
kind, and have a hospitality that is all their own.

CHAPTER XVI.

The Cemeteries.

Unique among the cemeteries of the United States are those of New Or-
leans. Owing to the dampness of the soil, which long ago caused the authorities

THa pfiOTo evn. <

ENTRANCE TO THE OLD ST. LOUIS CEMETERY.

to agree that burial beneath the earth was unsanitary and impracticable, the
custom here of burying above the ground has brought to the assistance of

143

iialure all the graces which moaey and art can combine in producing to make
fair and beautiful the resting-places of the dead. In many of the cemeteries
small fortunes have been expended upon a single tomb, and throughout the
homes of the dead, wherever the purse permits, no expense is considered too
great, in this city where sentiment so largely sways that Love, mounting on the
wings of Faith, may follow in beautiful outward expressions of human thought
the course of the dead in their trackless flight. And so everywhere our ceme-
teries breathe the lesson that the dead still live, and their spiritual influence,
hidden, but felt, still abides.

A day should be devoted to visiting the cemeteries, which are, curiously
enough, scattered over the city, marking historically the progress of its growth.
One comes unexpectedly across a city of the dead in the heart of the metropolis,
and learns that this once marked a line of demarcation outside the city's limits,
but which, as New Orleans in time spread far beyond this prescribed line, was
eventually swallowed up in the city's growth. The most historical cemeteries
are those of the old French quarter, the most beautiful those which are on both
sides of the New Basin Canal, near and around the terminus of Canal Street.

THE DEAD LIE CLOSE TOGETHER OLD ST. LOUIS CEMETERY

The tombs are built of brick or marble or granite, and consist generally of
two vaults, with a crypt below for the reception of bones. The vaults or crypts
are carefully cemented to prevent the exhalation of decaying animal matter,
and there is a law forbidding any one to open a tomb before a certain time shall
have elapsed after burial. Sometimes, as in the old St. Louis Cemeteries, the
tombs are built in tiers, along walls of extraordinary thickness. These walls
surround the cemeteries, and the vaults are called "ovens," the name being
derived from the- primitive form of tombs in the St. Louis Cemetery, which were
made of brick and shaped like an oven. Over many of these ancient oven-shaped
tombs a second story has been erected. As years pass on and deaths multiply in
a family, the vaults are needed for the reception of other bodies. The slabs are
then removed from the tombs, the old coffins broken up and burned and the
rrmains of the dead are deposited in the crypt. If the coffin is of metal, it is
simply transferred to tho crypt. In this manner a long series of
burials may take place in a single tomb. In the St. Louis Cemeteries generation
after generation mingle their dust in the same crypt.

"Very beautiful are the new cemeteries, with their spacious grounds, lovely
Malks and magnificent monuments. Yet, with all their beauty, the new homes

144

of the dead lack the mysterious charm of tradition and romance, association and
age, which are the heritage of the old cemeteries.

The four oldest of these are the St. Louis, which lie in close proximity
to one another, along the line of the Claiborne cars and the Dauphine as they
traverse the old Creole line of fortifications. Rampart Street. It is like turn-
ing a page of Louisiana history to walk through these cemeteries. The most
ancient is

St Louis No. I,

which lies in the square bounded by Conti, St. Louis, Basin and North Liberty
Streets. The cemetery is just one square's walk from Rampart Street. This
is the old burying-ground of the French quarter, the cemetery laid
out by Bienville in 1718, when he came to found his city of New Orleans.
He placed the cemetery outside of the city's ramparts, and loyally named it
"St. Louis," after the patron saint of his royal master, Louis XIV; of France.
The place is so old and crumbling in decay that it never opens its vaults
now except to an heir of the soil. Further building of tombs has long been
prohibited here. But the old, old families still cling to their dead — the dead
who gave New Orleans a history and a name — and the Government respects
these time-honored ancestors. The dead lie so close to one another along the
narrow aisles that there is not an inch of available earth that has not offered
a home in death to some one of the old New Orleans families. Even to the
"Vieux Carre" of to-day, the very names on some of these old and crumbling
toinbs seem strange and foreign, for years ago many of the families became
extinct, and their very names passed from the records of the city. But the old
St. Louis must ever hold the title of mother of all the Louisiana cemeteries,
and by reason of its very antiquity must ever be a place of peculiar interest
to strangers. The tombs are scattered irregularly over the inclosure. and form
tortuous alleys, through which it is very diflBcult for the uninitiated to find
their way. Strange histories lie buried here. A Russian prince finds a last
rt'Sting-place in a corner of one of the old ovens against the walls, and, as the
French legend runs on the marble slab. "This tablet was placed here by a
broken-hearted mother, who supplicates in tears, all ye who pass this way to
kneel and say a prayer for the repose of her son's soul." Almost in juxta-
position will he found the tomb of Benedict Van Preebles, "an officer of the
Revolution under Lafayette, who died in 1803." and of Paul Morphy. the great
chess player. In the rear of the cemetery will be found a curious old-fashioned
oven tomb, hardly two feet above the ground. It is the last resting-place of
Etienne de Bore, the first great sxigar planter of Louisiana, and of his grand-
son, Charles Gayerre. the illustrious Louisiana historian. In an alley to the
right is the tomb of Stephen Zacharie. founder of the first bank established in
the Mississippi Valley, and a little further on that of Daniel Clark, the Amer-
ican Consul in Spanish times in New Orleans, who was claimed by Myra Clark
Gaines as her father: out of this claim grew the famous litigation which
extended over nearly half a century, and which involved immense tracts of
property claimed by the City of New Orleans. The magnificent tomb of "La
Societe Italienne," with the commanding white marble statue of "Faith,"
attracts attention, as also that of "La Society Frangaise," erected in 1848. Just
beyond the Canal Stiv^et side of the Cemetery is a plot containing a quaint
chapel where the Jesuit priests are buried. Passing from aisle to aisle in the old
cemetery, on many tombs will be found the legend. "Mort sur le Champ d'Hon
neur" (Died on the Field of Honor), or "Victime de I'honneur," indicating that
here sleeps some one who has fallen in a duel. At the back of the cemetery,
beyond a hoard fence, which separates the consecrated from the unconsecrated
ground, will be found the original monument erected to the memory of General
Claiborne, the first American Governor of Louisiana. It possesses merely
an historic interest, as the remains of the Governor were long since removed to
a costly tomb in the Metairie Cemetery.

As the French quarter grew, another cemetery was added to the city's re-
pository for its dead, and this was placed beyond the limits allotted to the
mother cemetery. It is very ancient, and is called the

145

St. Louis No. 2.

It is within sight of the old cemetery, ou St. Louis, between North Robert-
son and North CMaiborne Streets, and is best reached on the Claiborne Avenue
car. It is built very much on the same style as the first ceme-
tery. Interesting monuments are those to General J. B. Plauche,
n frieno of Andrew JucKj^oh's, who commanded the Orleans Battalion in the
\^'ar of 1812. at the Battle of New Orleans; Alexander Milne, a philanthropic
Scottish resident of N:^w Orleans, who died in 1838, leaving a large fortune to

'W'^-^Jf^

A STUDY IN OVENS — OLD ST. LOUIS CEMETERY.

erdow the Milne Asylum for Boys; FranQois Xavier Martin, Chief Justice of
lionisiana in 1815, and one of the earliest historians of the State; Pierre Soule,
statesman and orator, and once Ambassador to Spain; the fine Association tomb
of the "Spanish Cazadores," erected in 1830, and that of the Iberian Society,
erected in 1848. At the end of the aisle, towards Claiborne Street, is the tomb
of a young man named Barelli, who was killed in the burning of the steamer
Louisiana many years ago. The accident forms the .subject of a bas-relief on the
tomb, which always attracts much attention. The large mortuary chapel at the
end of the cemetery is that of the Carriere family. It is very beautiful. But
most unique of all the tombs is that of Dominique You, one of Lafitte's pirates,

146

who commanded a company of cannoneers on the Chalmette battle-field. The
tablet bears no date, but beneath the name inscribed thereon is a stanza from
Voltaire's famous "L'Heriade," which speaks of "the intrepid warrior," "the
new Bayard," "sans peur et sans reproche."

An interesting relic of the days of reconstruction is the tomb of Oscar J.
Dunn, colored, who was Lieutenant Governor under Warmoth in 1871.

Just across the street lies the annex of St. Louis No. 2, and immediately
beyond lies

St Louis No. 3.

This cemetery is devoted to the uses of the colored people. From the ad-
Tent of slavery into the colony, which was, indeed, in the first days of the

A CEMKTliKY AISLK.

Biloxi establishment, the lines between the two races were very closely drawn.
When Bienville laid out the old St. Louis Cemetery for the use of the white
population, the open space which stretched beyond as far as Bienville Street
was reserved for the colored population. As time passed on, many of the
early Creole slave owners purchased burying plots for their slaves in the
ancient reservations, and erected special tombs for them. When the San Do-
mingo Revolution drove even the free men of color to seek refuge from the fury
of their own slaves on Louisiana shores, the necessity arose of providing a
special cemetery for these colored folks, for the proud, blue-blooded Creoles

147

•refused, oven iu death, to be placed oa equality with the inferior race, though
represented by freemen. Still they recognized a line of distinction between, the
"gens de coulcur," as the free blacks were called, and the slave proper, and so
the authorities walled up this ancient reservation of the slave dead and marked
ofE the allotted spaces for the burial of slaves and of free men of color by the
erection of a great iron cross in the center of the grounds. The ceme-
teries were systematically numbered, and this colored burying ground was dig-
nified by the title of St. Louis No. 3. When the war emancipated the negroes,
the question arose as to what rights the erstwhile slaves, whose relatives were
buried in these grounds, possessed to the tombs; but the matter was settled
by the masters and mistresses themselves still holding the titles to the ground
and tombs, and giving the right of burial as the occasion arose to the members
of their households and their descendants. More than this, one hears every now
and then, even in these latter days, of some old serving-men or women who had
scornfully rejected freedom when it was proffered, and who had clung through
long years of trial and rehabilitation to the fortunes of their ancient masters,
being honored in death with interment in the "family tomb" in St. Louis Nos.
1 or 2, while the gentlemen of the family act as pallbearers and the ladies follow
with tears the faithful old servant to the last resting-place.

Out in Esplanade Avenue, near the Bayou St. John, lies the

New St. Louis Cemetery,

a young sister of the older ones, and laid out isome forty years ago to accommo-
date the growing French Quarter. As the population of New Orleans continued
to increase and the tide of immigration to flow in, it will be noticed from the
location of the cemeteries that the "outskirts" of the city in one decade be-
came a densely populated section in the next, both above and below Canal
Street; here as early as 1813 the Americans had built their own cemetery.
Soon it became apparent that the city would have to locate its cemeteries at a
great distance from the populated centers, and so the Americans began to lay out
beautiful burying grounds at the furthest end of Canal Street: but the "Vieux
Carr6," still jealous of its ancient rights and loath to lay its dead so far from
the olden cemeteries where their ancestors lay sleeping these hundred years
and more, resolved to keep them within its own bosom. A square of ground
at the furthest end of Esplanade Avenue was reserved as a cemetery, and,
still clinging to the old name, sacred in the early annals of New Orleans, they,
called the place the new St. Louis Cemetery. It is reached by means of the
Esplanade Avenue cars, which may be taken in Canal Street or in Rampart
just after leaving the old cemeteries. Beautiful in its ancient aspect, though
comparatively new, the cemetery holds its own as a repository for the remains
of ancient families. The central avenue is shaded by handsome trees, and many
of the tombs are very fine. Father Turgis, the soldier-priest and veteran
Confederate chaplain, is buried here under a beautiful monument erected to
his memory by the Army of Northern Virginia. A notable tomb is that of
James Gallier, a famous architect of Creole days, who, with his wife, Marie,
was drowned in the wreck of the Evening Star in 1866. It was Gallier who
built the French Opera House and the City Hall.

Leaving the old French and Spanish cemeteries, one turns instinctively to

St. Roch's Cemetery and Shrine.

The old Gothic chapel of St. Koch is one of the most quaint and picturesque
edifices in New Orleans, or in the world, for that matter, as the opinions of S'lch
distinguished travelers as Marion Crawford, Charles Dudley Warner, Joaquin
Miller and other noted writers attest. The shrine is best reached by taking the
Villere or Claihorne Avenue car in Canal Street, or after leaving
the' old St. Louis Cemeteries. Alight at St. Roch's Avenue and walk
a short distance out the avenue, and the beautiful chapel, over-
grown with ivy, bursts upon the view. The chapel was erected
by a pious priest, with his own hands, in fulfillment of a vow, that, if
none of his parishioners would die during a prevailing epidemic in early days,
he would, stone by stone, build a chapel in thanksgiving to God. He and hia

148

parish united in a novena or nine days' prayer to St. Koch, the patron of
health. His prayer was heard. The city to a great extent was decimated,
but not one of this congregation died. Then the old priest built this chapel
and called the spot "Campo Santo," or "Place of Health." Soon from all parts
of New Orleans pilgrims sought out the chapel, and it became a favorite shrine
for the suffering and afflicted. In time it acquired the prestige of the miracle-
working shrines of Europe. No one comes to New Orleans without visiting it,
not once, but many times. Hundreds of tapers, the offerings of devout pilgrims,
are always burning before the altar, and on all sides of the dim chapel are
seen "ex votoes" or thank-offerings, placed there in gratitude for favors granted.
The shrine is surmounted by a military statue of St. Roch, and at his side is

ST. ROCH S CHAPEL.

the representation of the good dog, which fed him miraculously when he lay-
afflicted and abandoned with the plague in the forests of Munich.

The chapel is designed after the old mortuary chapels still extant in Ger-
man and Himgarian countries, and which, in ages gone by, were used for the
burial of the elect. Each morning the bell hanging in the quaint belfry is
tolled in accordance with a curious Hungarian custom, and every Monday
morning mass is offered in the chapel for the repose of the souls of all those
interred within and about the consecrated grounds.

The history of the spot as a cemetery dates back to 1871, when, owing to
the passage of the May Laws, many of the religious orders were expelled from
Germany. Some sought refuge in New Orleans, and were followed by many

149

earnest German Catholics, who settled for the most part in the rear of the
old Faubourg Marigny. The section was called the "German Quarter." The
pastor was Father Thevis, the builder of St. Roch, who, like the newcomers,
had been a refugee in the days gone by. Seeing that they had no cemetery of
their own, Father Thevis determined to convert the Campo Santo into a burial
spot where the exiled children of the Fatherland mijiht rest side by side. And

PHoToByPAUIET

OLD VIEW IN ST. ROCH S CEMETP:KY.

SO a few lowly graves, marked by wooden crosses, rose here and there among
tlie grassp«. Ry lU'g'^^es more )iretp'Uio<is n'Oiuin'oiits were f'lvcted. and it is
now one of the most picturesque burying grounds of the city. Beneath the sanc-
tuary of the chapel, in a crypt built with his own hands, lies the saintly founder
of St. Roch's, who had indeed builded better than he knew. For the place,
with its open-air stations of the cross, its crowd of kneeling worshipers, its
well-authenticated legends of miracles and answered prayers, seems rather the
remnant of a mediaeval abbey, which philosophy and reason have never in-
vaded, and where Faith, clad in the pure and simple garb of her early years,
still lives in all her freshness and beauty, and offers to all the sorrows and afflic-
tions of humanity a positive and effectual remedy in prayer.

Just back of the old lies the -new Cemetery of St. Roch. It is carefully
and beautifully laid out, and therefore lacks the romantic picturesqueness of the
older shrine. A uimtusry cL:ipel, frescoed by two Caru;elite monks from
Munich, adorns the center.

Leaving the cemetery, walk down St. Roch's Avenue to St. Claude
Street, and, ta:jing the Claiborne car, ride as far as Louisa Street, where the

5t. Vincent de Paul Cemeteries

may be seen. These cemeteries were laid out by Pepe Llula, the famous fenc-
ing master of old Creole days, who has already been mentioned in connection
with the story of the "Dueling Oaks" in the City Park. After having taught
the "jeuuesse dore" of New Orlt-ans how to meet in mortal combat as "swords*
men and gentlemen," and led the most famous fencing masters to do the same
thing, and kill one another "just for the sake of showing the art." Pepe Llula
settled down in this old truck farm section of ancient New Orleans, and. after
the erection of the parish church of St. Vincent de Paul, over forty years ago,
he cut up his ground into cemeteries, and named them after the patron saint
of the parish. The tombs are built on the same order as those of the ancient
French cemeteries. The old fencing master, with his wife and only daughter, is

150

buried here. Just over the way, overlooking the cemeteries, in a handsome
house, bounded by Clouet, Louisa and Urquhart Streets, is the ancient home of
the famous swordsman, where his grandchildren still reside. One room is kept
sacred.. It is 'filled with the trophies of Pepe Llula's great battles.

Across Canal Street lie the American cemeteries, and the oldest of these
is the

Qirod Street Cemetery,

which is the first Protestant burying ground ever laid out in New Orleans. It
lies on Girod Street, between Cypress and Perriliat, and was named for Nicholas
Girod, who formerly had his plantation along this line. Away back in 1844 the
cemetery was one of the handsomest and swellest in the city, but after the great
epidemics of '53 and 'GG it was mainly abandoned, and is now given over prin-
cipally to the very poor, to negroes and emigrants. The only families of note
who still have their tombs there are those who acquired the ground in the early
days of the cemetery's history. Historic monuments are those erected to Colonel
S. W. Bliss, who was a son-in-law of President Taylor, and of Dr. Thomas
Leacock, who for thirty years was rector of the old Christ Church. Glendy
Burke and his wife are buried ir the central aisle, in a tomb which was erected
in 1832. Some of the old graves date as far back as 1821, and are in utter
decay. One ancient tomb tears the legend, "Mammy, aged 84, a faithful ser-
vant, who lived and died a good Christian, 1829."

Lafayette No. i,

also called the Washington Street Cemetery, is on Washington Avenue, between
Prytania and Coliseum Streets. This cemetery succeeded the Girod as the
aristocratic burial-place of the American Quarter. Henry W. Allen, War Gov-
ernor of Louisiana, was buried here; the body was subsequently removed, but
the monument remains. General John B. Hood and General Harry T. Hays,
distinguished Confederate commanders, rest within these ancient aisles. A
magnificent monument is that erected to Captain Charles W. McLellan, a
Louisiana boy, who in 18G1, at the early age of 19, enlisted in the* Crescent
Rifles. Captain McLellan took part in twenty-three engagements, the most
noted of the war, but it v.as at the Battle of Sharpsburg that he signally
distinguished himself. General Jackson found it necessary to protect his left
flank, and ordered a detail from the Second Louisiana Brigade to go forward.
McLellan was put in command. He was only twenty years of age. To reach
the point indicated it was necessary to pass through a narrow valley called
by the soldiers "The Valley of Death," and over which the Federals were pour-
ing shrapnel and shell to such an extent that it seemed impossible for any one
to go through alive. Yet McLellan with his men gained the point amid the
cheers of their comrades and to the delight of General Jackson, who then and
there recommended him for promotion.

It was the first instance where an oflicer of the line in the volunteer ser-
vice received a commission direct from the President. Captain McGlellan was
killed 'in the vicinity of Meadow Bridge, before Richmond, June 1. 1864. His
i-emains were removed from Hollywood Cemetery, Richmond, to this beautiful
plot in Lafayette Cemetery in 1SG7. The monument, which is very costly, was
erected by his parents. Near by is one of the most picturesque cemetery cor-
ners in Ne«- C)rl<^ans. Dr. Palmer, the celebrated Presbyterian divine, sleeps
in one of the narrow old-fashioned aisles towards Prytania Street. The re-
mains of Dr. Palmer will be reinoved during- 1904 to a mag-nificent monu-
ment erected to his memory, in Metairie Cemetery, by the congreg-ation of
the First Presbyterian Church.

From the cemeteries of the French and American Quarters that seem like
bits of old world painting set down in the heart of New Orleans, take the car
in Canal Street labeled "Canal Belt," and ride out to the new and beautiful
cities of ihii dead, iyin.:: at the extremity of the ancient street. Six or seven of
these cemeteries will be found grouped together on Metairie Ridge, near the
Half-Way House. The first one, on approaching the Ridge, is a Jewish ceme-
tery, called "Tememe Direch," or "Hebrew Rest." Near by is another Jewish
cemetery that belongs to the congregation "Dispersed of Judah." The Hebrews

152

still adhere in New Orleans to the ancient custom of burying their dead in the
ground. The Charity Hospital burying ground and "Potter's Field" are on the
left, and to the right is Cypress Grove Cemetery, the beautiful trees indicating
the name.

St, Patrick Cemeteries,

so fresh and clean in their snow-white garb and pebbly walks, always attract
attention. Here lie the sturdy Irish pioneers who came to New Orleans in the
early part of the last century apd helped to make her history the proud tale it
is. Many of the best old families in the city have their tombs in these ceme-
teries. They breathe throughout the spirit of Catholic faith. Special attention
is directed to the beautiful Calvary shrine at the further end of St. Patrick's
No. 1 and the Mater Dolorosa that marks the entrance to St. Patrick's No. 2.

The Firemen's Cemetery

will be recognized from the gateway, modeled upon the Egyptian pilon or temple
gates. This cemetery stands a monument to the efforts of the old Volunteer
Fire Department of New Orleans, which did such effectual service from the
foundation of the city till a few years ago, when the old volunteer system was
replaced by a paid Fire Department. All through the cemetery will be seeji
the tombs belonging to these old Volunteer Fire Companies, and some chronicle
the deaths of heroes who gave up their lives for the protection of the city.
Notable among these is the lofty shattered column that commemorates the
sacrifice of Trad Ferry, the first martyr of the Department, who was killed
at a fire on Camp Street in 1837; of Maunsell White, a leading citizen and
planter, now remembered as the inventor of the pepper sauce that bears
his name; in thfe central aisle is a column commemoratiug John T. Monroe, the
War Mayor of the city. It might be mentioned here that the Volunteer Fire
Department i;ichult'il tlic besl. men in New Orleans, socially and commercially.
Indeed, nil through the old cemetery the inscriptions on the tombs show the char-
acter of the firemen as citizens.

The Masonic Cemeteries are in this section. They are shaded by beautiful
avenues of trees, and the effect is very picturesque.

Greenwood Cemetery,

whose very name suggests fresh pictures of woodlands and verdure, lies just
over the way from the firemen's burying-ground. Almost at the very entrance,
towards the New Basin Canal, stands the monument erected by the women
of New Orleans to the memory of the Confederate dead. The monument is
surmounted by the figure of a private soldier, and around the four corners of the
shaft are grouped the busts of Robert E. Lee, Albert Sidney Johnston, Stone-
wall Jackson and Leonidas Polk. Beneath the mound repose the bones of
over 600 Confederate soldiers, gathered several years after the War from many
a battlefield, where they lay moldering and neglected. This was the first mon-
.ument ever erected to the Confederate dead. At the unveiling Father Ryan's
beautiful poem, "The March of the Deathless Dead." was read. The monument
is in the custody of the Ladies' Confederate Memorial Association of Louisiana,
which erected it. A; D. Crossman. Mayor of the city 1846 to 1854, is buried in
Greenwood. A gallant soldier and journalist, Dan C. Byerly, who fell during
one of the heated political conflicts which grew out of the Reconstruction period,
sleeps peacefully in Greenwood's aisles. At the lower end of the cemetery is an
artistic monument to the firemen in the form of a lofty pavilion, in which stands
the marble figure of a volunteer carrying a line of hose. Two martyr volun-
teers, D. S. Woodruff, Ex-Foreman, and William McLeod, Foreman of Mis-
sissippi Fire Company No. 2, who were both killed at the same fire in 1854.

153

jire nobly commemoratod here. A notable tomb is that of the Typograplucnl
Union, inanguiated in 1855. The tomb of W. T. Richards, who left a bequest
of $80,000 to the Charity Hospital, is in Greenwood.

MONUMENT TO CONFEDERATE DEAD — GREENWOOD CEMETERY. ■

For a number of years Greenwood stood uuriyalled as a fair and verdant
resting-place for the dead, but just across the bayou there arose in time, on the
site once occupied by the famous Metairie Race Course, the beautiful

Metairie Cemetery,

a fair and lovely spot, that seems to rob death of half its terrors to leave the
loved one sleeping there. The old Metairie Jockey Club went out of existenC(>
in 1870. and the race track, which for thirty years was the most noted in the
United States, was purchased by a wealthy citizen and turned into a cemetery.
The Metairie Cemetery Association, organized in 1872, now owns the place.
It has greatly beautified the cemetery. The system of lakes and lawn,s was
executed in 1805 at a cost of $30,000. The first lake, near the main entrance.
IS called the "Horseshoe." A carriage drive thirty-two feet wide extends around
the lake, and there is a shady promenade for pedestrians. The second lake is
1.200 feet wide, or one-half as long as the Horseshoe, and the third lake is
2,700 feet long. The grounds are beautifully laid out, and many handsome and
costly mausoleums and monuments mark the resting-places of the dead. Near
the entrance stands the magnificent monument-tomb of the Army of Tennessee,
surmounted by Doyle's famous equestrian statue of Albert Sidney Johnston.

154

The trophy of arms over the entrance was modeled from the badge of the Asso-
ciation. At the entrance to the vault stands a marble statue of an orderly
"Calling the Roll." It is also from the chisel of Doyle. The burial vault, in the
heart of the mound, contains a tablet to the memory of General Johnston, on
which is inscribed Dimitry's famous epitaph, said to be one of the finest mor-
tuary inscriptions in the English language. Within the mound, along with
many of the soldiers he led, sleeps General P. G. T. Beauregard, the great Con-
federate chieftain.

Over the way from the entrance is a massive monument, surmounted by a
granite shaft, aloiit: wliicli .nie a'.ouped several life-sized figures. This monument
was erected recently by Mr. Moriarity in memory of his wife. The cost was
$50,000. A special railroad leading to the cemetery had to be built to transport
the heavy granite blocks of which the monument is constructed.

Near the main aisle of Metairie, as one passes down the shady avenue, is
the granite monument beneath Avhich repose Mr. and Mrs. George Nicholson,

TOMB OF THE ARMY OF TENNESSEE MONUMENT TO ALBERT SIDNEY

JOHNSTON METAIKIE CEMETERY.

the late proprietors of the Picayune. Dying within ten days of each other,
side by side under the grassy mound they sleep the last eternal sleep. Mrs.
Nicholson's m.'udcn n.ni!" war Eliza .T. Poitevent. She was known to the world
of letters as "Pearl Rivers." She was one of the sweetest poets who ever
touched a lyre and woke it into song.

Among other interesting tombs are those of Thomas Jenkins Semmes, who
was the last of the Confederate Senators to answer the great roll call; Dr.
Thomas R. Markham, a noted Confederate chaplain; A. C. Hutchinson, who
left a bequest of nearly a million dollars to the Tulane University; Patrick
O'Brien, who so magnificently endowed the Catholic University at Washington;
General Fred N. Ogden, a conspicuous figure of Reconstruction days, and com-
mander of the famous White League. The latter sleeps beneath the most ex-
pressive monument in the cemetery, a great granite bowlder, lying under a gigan-
tic live oak, towards the western end. Mr. John T. Gibbons, brother of Cardi-
nal Gibbons, has his family tomb in Greenwood, as also the Stauffer, Slocomb,

155

Aldig§, McCan, Morris, Heinaudez and other prominent families. These
monuments cost thousands of dollars. Especially beautiful are those located
on the Ridge, just around the curve of the old race course, and overlooking the
lake. The tomb of tlie Army of Northern Virginia is surmounted by a shaft
crowned by a statue of General Stonewall Jackson. Aside from its own historic
interest, the tomb has acquired a sacred character in the minds of the people
of the South, for within lis mound reposed for two years the remains of Jeffer-
son Davis, prior to final interment in Richmond, Virginia. During this period
special detachments of Confederate veterans acted as a guard of honor about
the tomb by night and day, and when tl;e remains of Mr. Davis were at length
carried to the capital of the Confederacy, there to await the last reveille; the
vault in whic-li rhcy Imd l;i:n waL' hermetically sealed and a bronze tablet placed
without, telling to future generations that it marked one of the last chapters

TOMB OF AKMY OF NORTHEKN VIRGINIA — METAIRIK CEMETERY.

in the great tragedy of the South. Near by is the monument of the Washing-
ton Artillery, surmounted by the figure of a Confederate artilleryman in uni-
form, guarding the rest of his comrades, who sleep below. Upon the four sides-
of the tomb is the roll of the dead of this ancient command who "fell on the
field of honor."

And last, but not least, in this cemetery of beautiful monuments, is thfr
first tomb ever erected within its limits, that of the owner of the soil, Mr,
Charles T. Howard. It is a large structure of granite, with iron gates, through
which the visitor may see the interior and the statue of "Time," seated, with a
finger pressed to tiie lips. The face of this statue is said to have been modeled
from that of INIr. Howard himself.

156

Metairie Cemetei-y is a great promenade of a Sunday evening. Flowers
-are always blooming upon the graves, and the freshness and verdure lead the
-mind from the contemplation of death to the thought of God.

Other cemeteries in New Orleans are St. Joseph's, on Sixth Street, near
Liberty, in which may be seen the old wooden structure that first served as a

WASHINGTON ARTILLERY M0NUMP:NT METAIRIE CEMETERY.

chinch to the Hedemptorist Fathers, in Constance Street, and which was trans-
ferri'd to this plot and turned into a mortuary chapel when the splendid new
churches were erected; the three St. Vincent de Paul Cemeteries, in Soniat
and Dufossat Streets, and the ancient Carrollton Cemetery, which marks the
resting-place of the first settlers of this now beautiful suburb of New Orleans.

All Saints' Day.

All Saints' Day, which always falls on November 1, is observed in New
OrU'ans as the general day for the decoration of the graves of the dead. It
has been said that New Orleans has two great festivals — the Carnival, when she
invites strangers from all parts of the world to come and make merry with
'her, and "All Saints," the great home festival, when, heart to heart, the entire
city meets on common ground to pay its tribute to the loved and lost. To-
gether the rich and poor, the high and low, recognize that barriers of caste and
class have no place in the all-embracing dominion of death; for each home has
•its heart history written somewhere out in the white cities of the dead. It may
be on the marble tablet of some stately mausoleum, or only on the rude wooden
'headboard of some grass-grown mound. But the dead are there, and the heart
is there, and so the city unites in its work of love and remembrance.

158

All Saints' is a legal holiday, and all the banks, stores and places of busi-
ness are closed. For weeks before its advent the florists are busily engaged
preparing for the immense sale of flowers which the day always brings, and the
patient workers in beads and was, down in Royal Street, place on exhibition
their wonderful creations of months of labor to remind the passersby that All
Saints' ijs approaching, and that these designs are not so perishable as those
made of natural flowers. The cemeteries, too, are filled with faithful workers,
cleaning the tombs and planting fresh flowers. The day dawns and enfolds the
city in its hallowed influence. From every home the people go forth, bearing

DECORATING GRAVKS ALL SAINTS ' DAY — METAIRIE CEMETERY.

their fragrant offerings. From morning till night the cemeteries are thronged,
and it does one good just to look at the vast, soulful, heart-throbbing multitude,
so different from the gay, rollicking crowds of Carnival time, and all linked to-
gether by one thought, "the dead, the dead," who are everywhere. The florists,
the cake vendors, the praline women, the perambulating refreshment stands,
all do a thriving business, for the people spend the day in the cemeteries, going
quietly and decorously from one to another, after having paid their tributes at
their own individual shrines, for death sanctifies the day.

The observance of All Saints' dates away back to the year 998, when the
Abbott of Cluney instituted it for the monasteries of his congregation, holding

159

services for the dead, and going from grave to grave and lighting blessed can-
dles before them, decking them with flowers, and blessing them with holy water.
All these customs are still observed in the old French cemeteries of New Or-
leans. Some of the tombs resemble miniature altars on All Saints', with their
numbers of lighted candles and sacred images. In all the Catholic Cemeteries
services are held, and at a certain hour the priests with a train of acolytes pass
up and down the aisles, sprinkling the graves with holy water and singing lita-
nies, just as the old French Jesuits and Capuchins used to do in the first days
of the old St. Louis Cemetery.

Though distinctly Catholic in its origin, the thought underlying the cele-
bration of All Saints' is so beautiful that the custom of setting aside this one
day for communing with the dead has been instinctively adopted by all the
nationalities of New Orleans, and poor indeed must be the home that
fails to respond to the call of this consecrated day, when Love and Memory
walk hand in hand along the borderland of time and eternity, strewing the way
with flowers.

CHAPTER XVII

New Orleans Suburban Resorts.

In addition to Audubon, the City, the Athletic Park and the numerous
pretty squares that stud the residence section of the city, and which are favor-,
ite haunts of the people at all seasons of the year, New Orleans is especially
well supplied with open air resorts. In front is the river, the levee running
along which is always a great promenade of an evening, particularly during the
summer season, while the ferries tbat ply between the city proper and Algiers
are thronged till far into the evening with fathers and mothers taking the chil-
dren for an airing, or young folks enjoying the freshening breezes, the music
that floats over the water and the glorious sunsets on the Mississippi. Back
of the city are the lakeside resorts, West End, Spanish Fort and Milneburg,
where the salt breezes blow, giving strength and vigor with every passing
breath. And so it will be seen that this is another most charming feature of
this delightful old city, the fresh water in front, the salt water in the rear; all
combine, together with proximity to the gulf, to make New Orleans an ideal
place during the summer season. While the thermometer is registering over
100 in the shade in Northern cities, here in New Orleans a pleasant temperature
is maintained. We have always a delightful breeze on the warmest day, and
we do not have to go very far to get to the lakeside, to enjoy a salt water bath
or a pleasant boat sail.

The most popular of the lake resorts is

West End,

so called from its position on Lake Pontchartrain. The lake itself is a body of
brackish water, about twenty miles in diameter, being nearly round in shape,
and at no place very deep. It affords yachtsmen a splendid opportunity for
small yachts. The series of regattas which are held in the summer are among
the pleasant features of life in New Orleans. Lake Pontchartrain communi-
cates with Lakes Maurepas and Borgne, and, through the latter, with the Mis-
sissippi Sound.

West End is beautifully laid out. The large music plaza on the other side
of the bridge is built on pilings over the water, and forms what is perhaps the
largest work of the kind in existence. There is a splendid music stand, and
during the summer months thousands congregate here to enjoy the music that
is always furnished by the finest orchestra that can be obtained. The gar-

160

dens are beautiful. The pretty winding paths and intricate puzzles are the
delight of the younger folks. The most beautiful tropical flowers are always
seen blooming luxuriantly in the open air. The crest of the levee beyond the
plaza has been utilized for this garden, which terminates at the Parish line.
The beautiful sward beyond extends into the Parish of Jefferson. Tlie various
restaurants at West End are famous for their excellent cuisine.

West End is reached by means of the electric cars, which start from
Canal and Carondelet Streets. The train runs out Canal Street to the Half-
Way House, makes r:n jibiupt turn and follows the course of the New Basii>

GARDEN AT WEST END.

Canal to the resort. Another way is by carriage drive out Canal Street to the
Half-Way House, and thence out along the beautiful Shell Road.

The New Basin Canal was built to enable schooners and other small craft
to reach the heart of the city. The canal, which is State property, terminates
at the New Basin, alongside the Illinois Central Railroad Depot, on South Ram-
part and Howard Avenue. On the railroad side of the canal are the clubhouses
of the St. John's Rowing Club and the West End Rowing Club, while, leading
out from the plaza is a long wharf, at the end of which is the home of the
Southern Yacht Club, under whose auspices many celebrated races have taken
place.

Spanish Fort

is a small village with pleasure gardens, situated at the mouth of the Bayou St.
John. The fort was erected by the Spaniards during the days of the Spanish
domination in Louisiana, and was called by them "Fort St. John." It was
armed and garrisoned as long as the Spaniards ruled in Louisiana, but after the
cession of the colony to the United States the Americans found that the fort
was too far inland to be of any great service, and it was abandoned. The
ancient fortifications, built of small bricks, are fairly well preserved. The
embrasures were filled up and the ramparts leveled to give space for seats whe»
the place became a pleasure resort. Behind the fort are four cypress trees,
standing near the gate leading into the gardens. Tradition says that these trees

161

mark the grave of a young Spanish officer who was killed in a duel on this spot
It was at this fort that General Jackson first landed, when he hastened from
the Indian War in Tennessee, in 1814, to take command in New Orleans. Gen-
eral Jackson came across Lake Pontchartrain in a schooner, and, riding from
the Fort to Bayou Bridge, rested there before making his entry into the city
the following day. During the Civil War the fort was again garrisoned;
and the old guns still to be seen there, some of which date from colonial times,
were mounted and used in two or three encounters which took place under
these walls. The foundations of some of the old houses which formerly stood
within the walls may still be seen. The old torpedo boat, which may be seen
near the bayou, was fished up out of that stream a few years ago. The torpedo
boat was an abortive experiment made during the Civil War in the line of sub-
marine navigation. A fine restaurant which was built on one side of the fort
was burned some years ago and has not been replaced. The resort
is closed at 9 o'clock at night. It is reached by a train from a depot at the
corner of Canal and North Basin Streets. On the right are the St. Loula
Cemetery and the Basin, into which the Bayou St. John discharges. The bayon
is navigable for schooners, and connects with Carondelet Canal, one of the
waterways leading into the heart of the city. At Hagan Avenue the train
passes one of the city's draining machines, by means of which rain waters are
moved through canals and expedited in their course to Lake Pontchartrain.
At Metairie Ridge the upper end of City Park is passed, affording an excellent
view of the old duelling ground. Thence the road follows the course of the Or-
leans Drainage Canal to the Fort.

The last of the lakeside resorts is the

Old Lake, or Milneburg.

It is reached by the Pontohartrain Railroad, which starts at the depot, comer
of Elysian Fields and Chartres Streets. The Old Lake was once the most
fashionable of the lake resorts, and stood alone in its glory for over half a
century. The resort was exceedingly primitive at first, but was gradually built
up. At the time that the Pontchartrain Railroad, which, as has already been
noted, was the second railroad ever built in the United States, began its opera-
tions, all the freight cars on the railroads were unloaded just as wagons are;
but the Superintendent of the Pontchartrain invented the simple platform,
which may now be seen everywhere. The road runs in a straight line for four
miles along what is the shortest distance between the river and the lake. Milne-
burg Is a very old town. It is named in honor of Alexander Milne, a philan-
thropic Scotch citizen of New Orleans in the old days. It became a famous
resort, and was noted for its splendid caterers, the most famous of whom, named
Boudro, managed the celebrated restaurant in which a banquet was given to
Thackeray while he was in New Orleans. The dining made a great impression
upon Thackeray; he made allusion to it in one of his books, paying at the same
time a famous tribute to New Orleans cookery. The restaurant remains, but the
old caterer is dead, and the glory of Milneburg has departed, it having been
superseded in popularity by West End, or the New Lake, as it is often called,
in distinction from the old resort

CHAPTER XVIII.

Education in New Orleans — The Story of John

flcDonogh — Social Literary and Philan=

thropic Effort — The Military.

The educational system of New Orleans is unsurpassed. i

It is estimated that there are upwards of 75,000 educabi* children in the
City of New Orleans. Of these, some 32.000 attend the public schools; about
16,000 attend ths Catholic parochial schools, conrents, academies and collegee.

162

A large proportion of the remainder attend the many excellent priyate schools
scattered over the city, which are, for the most part, under the direction of tal-
ented Southern women.

Tulane University has an attendance in all its departments aggregating
about 700. Its sister institute, the H. Sophie Newcomb Memorial College, has
about 350. The Jesuits' College has an attendance of about 600 students.
These institutions have already been noticed in this Guide, but throughout tk«
city the visitor will come unexpectedly upon some beautiful building surmounted
by a cross or statue, and surrounded by extensive grounds. Through the grat-
ing in the gate one may catch sight of demure maidens moving about with book
in hand, or engaged in recreation beneath the trees, and at their side is evex
a black-veiled nun, for the most part a woman thoroughly educated in the best
schools of Europe, and who has taken the vow to devote herself forever to the
education and guidance of youth. These are the convent schools and academies
of New Orleans, for many. years the only higher institutions of learning in the
far South, until the public high schools were established in the forties. The con-
vents still hold their own in the progressive march of the age, and yoimg ladies
come from all parts of the South to enjoy the benefits of higher education and
acquire the accomplishments in music, art and the languages for which the New
Orleans convents have ever been famous.

The Public School System

of New Orleans is also unexcelled. There are about seventy public school-
houses, which have cost on an average of $40,000 each. The public school en-
rollment averag-es 32,000. 1903 witnessed the addition of public night
schools to the general system.

McDONOGH SCHOOL No. 14.

Ten of the public school buildings are reserved ^forTthe education of
colored youth. Thirty of the public school buildings were either bought or built
and are kept in repair through the noble endowment of John McDonogh. For
this reason the visitor will see inscribed on many of the finest public school
buildings the name "McDonogh," followed by the number of the school.

163

Romance of John McDonogh.

The history of John McDouogh reads like a romance in these later days.
He was of Scotch-Irish pjii'entage. and was born in Baltimore in 1779. He was
liberally educated, and early in life embarked in commercial pursuits. In 180O
he came to New Orleans, where he opened business on his own account, and
was soon regarded as one of the most successful and wealthy men.

In 1806, young, gay and dashing, and a general favorite, not only in busi-
ness circles, but in the most exclusive homes of the old Creole noblesse, he re-
tired from commercial life and devoted himself to the management of his large
estates. He opened a magnificent bouse at the corner of Chartres and Toulouse
Streets, kept a numerous letinue of slaves, fine horses and equipages, and was
considered one of the most desirable matches in the French Quarter. But young
McDonogh aspired high, and none pleased him so well as the beautiful daughter

KOBEKT E. LEE SCHOOL — LATE.ST TYPE OF PUBLIC SCHOOLS.

of Don Almonaster, the Spanish Colonial philanthropist and magnate of old
New Orleans. The proud old nobleman indignantly rejected the suit, declaring
that a daughter of his noble race should never ally herself to a poor plebeian.
Stung to the heart, McDonogh withdrew. The lady subsequently became the
wife of the Baron de Pontalba, and McDonogh's grief and mortification weighed
so heavily upon him that he swore he would have more money than all the
Almonasters and Pontalbas put together, and that his name would live when
their proud titles would have sunk into oblivion. From that hour his habits
and nature changed. In his bitter anger he sold the contents of his magnificent
house in Chartres Street, and moved to a small house on his plantation in Mc-
Donoghville, on the other side of the river, where, for nearly half a century,
he led a lonely, penurious life, with seemingly one ambition- — the amassing of
money. He seemed, to all appearances, cold, hard, selfish, and the prejudice
of New Orleans against the close, miserly life he led was great.

Wherever he passed he was pointed out as a miser. At his death, in 1850,
he left his Immense fortune to be divided, share and share alike, between the
Cities of New Orleans and Baltimore, for public educational purposes.

No condition was attached to the gift to the City of New Orleans, except
tiie simple request at the bottom of the will that the little children nf. the public
schools should come once a year and strew his grave with flower?

164

McDonogh was at first buried in a marble sarcophagus on his estate on the
other side of the Mississippi, above Algiers. His body was subsequently re-
moved to Baltimore, in accordance with his last request, and laid beside his
father and mother. But the old tomb over the river is still to be seen. The in-
scriptions, which were the rules of Mr. McDonogh's life, were composed by him-

McDONOGH MONUMENT-LAFAYETTE SQUARE,

self, and are exceedingly characteristic of the man. The public school children
of New Orleans built the monument to his memory in Lafayette Square. May
1, "McDonogh Day," is annually kept in the schools, the children devoting the
afternoon to memorial exercises in his honor, and sending delegations from each
school to strew the monument with flowers.

The Social Life of New Orleans

is very beautiful, but, as remarked in the beginning of this Guide, the stranger
mjst come with letters of irtroduction, else he will gain hi,s impressions of the
city fiom the streets alone, seeing nothing of the inner life of the people, which
is tlio most charming and distinctive feature of this old Southern metropolis.

New Orleans is rich in social clubs, educational, literary, benevolent and
charitable organizations.

The social clubs are, of course, exclusive organizations, and admission is
by invitation or by presentation of a card from one of the members. The most
prominent of these are the Bo,ston Club, which has its home at No. 824 Canal
Street, the Pickwick Club, 1028 Canal Street, the Varieties Club, with rooms at
the Grand Opera House, in Canal Street, the Chess, Checkers and Whist Club,
with quarters at 108 Baronne Street, Louisiana Club, 122 Carondelet Street,
i'rench Opera Club, which meets in the French Opera House, the Harmony
Club, an exclusively Hebrew organization, occupying the beautiful home, corner
of Jackson Avenue and St. Charles, the Cotillion Club and the Carnival German
Club, which give very .swell and exclusive social evenings during the Carnival
season.

Among

Organizations of Women

are the Woman's Club, which meets the first Monday of each month at 1446
Camp Street, the Arena Club, which meets at the residence of the President,
610 Julia Street; the Era Club, devoted to the extension of suffrage among
women, which meets at Gibson Hall, Tulane University, every second and
fourth Saturday of the month. At the meetings of these several clubs visiting
club women are cordiallj' welcomed upon presentation of credentials, as also at

165

the meetings of the Daughters of the Confederacy, in Memorial Hall, on the
first Monday of the month, and the quarterly meetings of the Ladies' Confed-
erate Memorial Association, held in the same place. The Daughters of 1776-
1812, meets every first Tuesday at Washington Artillery Hall Armory,
St. Charles Street, the Daughters of the American Revolution hold reunions
every first Wednesday morning in the reading room of the Hovrard
Memorial Library, the Colonial Dames meet at the residences of mem-
bers. Among distinctively literary organizations are the Round Table, the
Book Club, Quarante, Geographies, Tea and Topics Clubs, which are very ex-
clusive and which hold their meetings at the residences of the Presidents or
members. Along

Educational Lines

is the Catholic Institute, which has succeeded the Catholic Winter School, the
Churcli Club (Episcopal), the New Orleans Educational Association and the
Kindergarten Club; the latter meets the first Monday and second Sat-
urday of the month, respectively, at the Boys' High School, in Calliope Street,
near St. Charles. The New Orleans Free Kindergarten has five kindergartens
under its direction, located respectively at 1203 Annunciation, 1534 Poydras,
610 Camp, 2218 St. Thomas, and 8327 Laurel Street.

The Athletic Clubs

are located as follows: Young Men's Gymnastic Club, 224 North Rampart
Stie«-t: the Southern Athletic Club, corner of Washington Avenue and Prytania
Streets; the Audubon Golf Club has its links and clubhouse at the upper end of
Audubon Park; the New Orleans Golf Club at the lower end of the City Park;
the New Orleans Tennis Clab has its clubhouse and court on Saratoga Street,
between General Taylor and Constantinople; the Walnut Street Tennis Club has
its court at the upper end of Audubon Park. The golf and tennis clubs ar«
composed of ladies and gentlemen.

Very prominent socially and otherwise ai"e the

Yachting and Boat Clubs.

The Southern Yacht Club, which was organized in 1849, and is the second
oldest in the United States, the St. John's Boat Club and the West End Rowing
Club have their clubhouses at West End. Regattas take place annually tmd«r
the atispices of these clubs, the admission to the clubhouse on such occa-
sions being by card from the members.

The Young Men's Gyninastic Rowing Club has its house on the Bayou St.
John, at the terminus of Esplanade Avenue.

The Victoria Cricket Club plays in Audubon Park, and the New Orleans
Polo Club has its field in the City Park.

New Orleans has numerous riiJe clubs. Thirty-five organized private hunt-
ing and fishing clubs, with handsome camps and many game preserves, are
located within thirty miles of the city, along the lines of the railroads and
Wiiterv.'ays. Public institutions of this character are also plentiful. Philan-
thropic ana benevolent associations and mutual aid societies, missionary and
church societies, abound in New Orleans. Every asylum and orphanage has
its organized body of auxiliary women workers, who devote themselves to sew-
iug anc assisting in providing for the wants of the inmates. It is said that for
its size and population New Orleans does more charity work in comparisoa
than any other city of the United States.

New Orleans is the

First nilitary District,

and most of the military organizations are comprehended in the First District.
It comprises the Division Staff, the Battalion of Washington Artillery, the
Louisiana Field Artillery, the Naval Brigade, the Jefferson Guards, the First
Troop of Cavalry and the Signal Corps. The district is commanded by Major
Genera] John Glynn, Jr., with Colonel E. C. Fenner as Chief of Staff.

166

The oldest of these mililar.y organizations is the Washington Artillery,
whoso armory is located in the Washington Artillery Hall, on St. Charles
Street, near Julia. It comprises five batteries, all under excellent management.
The battalion is under the command of Lieutenant Colonel John B. Richardson.
The Louisiana Field Artillery, commanded by Lieutenant Colonel John P.
Sullivan, consists of five batteries. Its armory, on St. Charles, near Felicity
Street, was destroyed by fire in 1902. The erection of a new armory, which
will probably be located on the old site, is contemplated. The First
Troop of Cavalry is commanded by Lieutenant Churchill. Its armory
is on Eighth and Caroudelet Streets. The Jefferson Guards, com-

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U. S. NAVAL TRAINING SHIP, THE STK ANGER.

manded by Captain Kantz, has its armory in Gretna, The Signal Corps is
commanded by Captain Warner, and is located at St. Charles, near Graviei-
Street. The Naval Brigade, which is attached to the First Military District,
was organized in 1895. This organization, famiharly called the "Naval Re-
serves," did splendid service in the war with Spain. It furnished 240 officers
and men to the United States Navy. The brigade has eight divisions, two of
which are engineer divisions. The organization recently erected a handsome
new Armory in Camp Street, between Julia and St. Joseph, abutting the
sidewalk, with a large drill and recreation ground in the rear. The cost
was $20,000. The Commanding Officer and other officials have their offices
in the building. Strict military regulations prevail within the barracks.
The Naval Brigade is now one of the largest organizations in the Naval
Militia service in the country. The membership is now above 400. The
United States Steamship Stranger is the training ship of the organization,
and is ordinarily anchored in the river at the foot of Henrj- Clay Avenue.
Captain J. W. Bostick is the commander of the brigade.

The only other military organization in the city is the Continental Guards,
organized in 1854, and which did excellent service during the Civil War. The
organization is an independent command, permitted to bear arms. The armory
is in Odd Fellow,s' Hall, on Camp Street.

Not ranking among the military organizations, but dear to the people of
New Orleans because of the heroic part they bore in the memorable struggle
of '61 and '65, are the New Orleans Camps of

The United Confederate Veterans,

whose headquarters are at Memorial Hall, in Camp Street. New Orleans is
jnstly proud of the fact that the organizatioH of the United Confederate Vete-
rans had its birth here, the survivors of Confederate Cavalrymen holding
the first reunion in this city Feb. 13, 1888. As a result, a joint call of
the New Orleans Camps was issued for a general Convention
to be held in New Orleans June 10, 1889, the purpose of which wag

167

to form a confederation for the assistance of the widows i^nd orphans of fallen
comrades, and to hand down to future generations the true history of the South-
em cause, etc. Ten camps of veterans were represented at that first convention,
the Army of Northern Virginia of New Orleans being designated as Camp 1,
the Army of Tennessee as Camp 2, and the New Orleans Confederate Veteran
Cavalry as Camp 9, and permanent organization was effected, the title
"United Confederate Veteran Association" adopted with General John B.
Gordon as the unanimous choice for Commander-in-Chief. Eighteen camps
were represented at the first reunion. The second reunion was held at Jack-
son, Miss., June 2, 1891. Twenty-six veteran camp delegates responded. The
third reunion was held in New Orleans April 8, 1892, and there were dele-
gations from 172 camps. There are now 1492 camps. The reunion held in
New Orleans in April, 1903, brought together delegate survivors of the
cause, numbering some 65,000. Over $65,000 was raised b}' the people of
New Orleans for the entertainment of the veterans, and the reunion was
voted the grandest and most successful ever held.

Working in sympathj' with the veterans are the United Daughters
«f the Confederacy and the Confederate Southern Memorial Association. Here
again New Orleans patriotically points to the fact that her women were the
first to organize in 1861, and the first to build a monument to the Confederate
dead. The United Sons of Veterans is an organization pledged to the noble
principles laid down in the constitution of the parent organization.

The Department of Louisiana and Mississippi of the Grand Army of the
Republic has its headquarters in New Orleans, at 164 South Rampart Street.
Colonel C. W. Keeting is Department Commander and Rudolph E. Baquie is
Adjutant General. The members are mostly soldiers who came to Louisiana
and Mississippi after the close of hostilities between the States, or came with
the Federal Army during the latter years of the war.

CDHAF^TEp:^ XIX.

The Carnival and Mardi Gras.

The Carnival is New Orleans' most distinctive social feature, and no guide-
book to the city would be complete without reference to this world-famed f§te,
so magnificent in its conception, so gorgeous in its pageantry, so thorough in
the perfection of even the most minute detail of its marvelous scope, that com-
petent historians and critics have declared that the famous spectacular tri-
UD.'php of ancient Rome, with all their barbaric wealth and splendor, never sur-
passed in beauty the wonderful parades of New Orleans.

Year after year thousands of spectators travel hundreds of miles to par-
ticipate in the festivities, and the magnificent success of this unique fete has
ofton inspired other cities to attempt to rival it. But New Orleans remain*
supreme as the "Carnival City." She established the festival on American
soil, and made and won the laurels which she wears so proudly. No rival can
"ver wrest them from her brow. For it is not only money and pageantry that
make a carnival. The people themselves must be a part of it. In New Orleana
all combines towards the end; the lavish expenditure on the part of a few publie-
spirited citizens to make all the people happy for just a few days, the hearty re-
sponse from the depths of the great popular heart, the gracious hospitality
with which the stranger is welcomed and bidden to be one of New Orleans'
great family of merrymakers, all unite in giving to our Mardi Gras a distinctire
character, whose impression remains and yearly adds to the immense throngs
that crowd our Carnival streets.

169
lu the average mind the words

'^Carnival" and "Mardi Qras"

ar'j supposed to be synonyms. But there is a fine distinction. The "Carnival"
properly speaking, begins with the grand ball of the "Twelfth Night Revellers,"
on January 6, and culminates with the magnificent festivities of "Mardi Gras,"
or "Fat Tuesday," which is the eve of Ash Wednesday, and marks the close
of festivities and the beginning of the Lenten Season. The word "Carnival" is
derived from the Latin words "carne," "flesh," and "vale," "farewell," or
"farewell, flesh." The great popular features of the New Orleans Carnival are
the gorgeous street pageants that take place in the week ending on Ash Wednes-
day.

Our Carnival parades date back to the year 1827, when a number of young
Creole gentlemen, who had just returned from Paris, whither they had been
sent to complete their education, conceived the idea of organizing a street pro-
cession of maskers. It was a success. The celebration continued year after
year on a grander scale, the whole populace taking up the idea. Mardi Gras
was, however, in those days essentially different from what it is now. There
was more promiscuous masking. The streets were thronged with quaint, pic-
turesque, grotesque bands of maskers of every age, rank, sex and condition,
and their costumes ran the whole gamut from the polichinelle or clown, with his
jiiijrliag bells, monkeys and polar bears, devils, with red horns, and dominoes
of all colors, to kings and queens and knights and ladies of the olden time. An
exclusive ball in the old St. Louis Hotel or the Salle d'Orleans followed, while
the city generally had its festive gatherings, and fun and merriment reigned.
Mardi Gras was also a great day with the boys, who, clothed in dominoes, old
calico dresses or bagging, masked themselves, and, armed with a stout hickory
stick and a bag of flour, promenaded the streets, seeking for victims upon whom
to exercise their mischievous spirit. Their depredations, however, were limited
to such as wore the Carnival uniform, and consisted principally in throwing flour
and confetti. The flour, confetti and hickory sticks have disappeared, and the
number of promiscuous street maskers is growing gradually less each year, but
many of the ancient distinctive features of the day still remain, the ball at the
old Si. Louis Hotel having been the inauguration of the grand Carnival balls
which are special features of the celebrations to-day.

The various customs that still maintain indicate the

Roman Origin of the Festivities.

Paris derived her Carnival from the Eternal City, and New Orleans de-
rived hers from Paris, so that the historian may trace the genealogy of the
celebration far back into pagan times, when the sacrifice of the Lupercalia
formed the great festival of ancieut Rome. It seems fitting, also, that, since
New Orleans derived its old-time Carnival from Paris, the system of street
pageants of moving tableaux should also have been introduced into New Orleans
from an old French city of the new world.

The idea of reproducing scenes from history, poetry, folk-lore or fairyland
on floats drawn about the streets wafe first inaugurated in Mobile by an organ-
ization known as the Cowbellions. in 1831. New Orleans continued her street
processions, begun in 1827, on Mardi Gras, having quite an extensive one in
1837, and another still more brilliant in 1839. Attention was now being paid
aiso to the purely spectacular part of the pageant, a feature of the procession
of 1839 being an immense cock over six feet high, riding in a carriage and de-
lighting the crowds with stentorian crows. In 1857 a society called the "Mys-
tick Krewe," now known as the

riystic Krewe of Comus,

was organized. The Picayune especially exploited the extraordinary secrecy
which shrouded its movements, and stimulated the curiosity of the public to
the highest degree in regard to its appearance. Mardi Gras, Feb. 24, at 9
o'clock, the Krewe appeared for the first time on the streets, coming whence no
one could say, and presenting a gorgeous series of moving tableaux representing

170

scenes of the infernal regions, taken from Milton's "Paradise Lost." After the
parade the Krewe repaired to the Varieties Theatre, where a series of appropri-
ate tableaux were presented, the subjects, "The Diabolic Powers," "The Expul-
sion from Paradise," the "Conference of Satan and Beelzebub" and "Pandemo-
nium," being in keeping with the character of the pageant. A grand ball fol-
lowed the tableaux, far surpassing the first effort in this direction in 1839 in the
old St. Louis ballroom, or the exclusive displays which from 1840 to 1845 so de-
lighted pleasure-loving New Orleans. It took rank with the memorable ball of
1852, given in the old Orleans Theatre, and which for gorgeousness of decora-
tions, richness of toilettes and brilliancy of effect has never been surpassed in
New Orleans.

The Mystick Krewe of Comus continued to give annual displays till 1861,
when the tragedy of the Civil War for a time put an end to the pretty gayeties
of tlie Carnival. In 1866, after the restoration of peace, Comus resumed his
entertainments, giving a grand street parade and an exclusive ball annually
un+il 1884, with the exceptions of the years 1875, 1879 and 1883. From 1884
to 1890 Comus did not appear. In the latter year, however, the merry God of
Rftvelry delighted the popular heart by reappearing upon the streets in a mag-
nificent series of tableaux, representing the "Paligenesis of the Mystick Krewe's
Life and Work," or a review of its own history. Since that period Comus has
never failed to delight the Carnival City with an annual display. It is the oldest
of the Carnival organizations,

The Twelfth Night Revelers,

the second of the mystic organizations, came into existence in 1870. It derives
its name from the night it celebrates, January 6, or the twelfth night after
Christmas. For several years the organization gave annual street pageants,
very much on the same style as Comus, but varying in the treatment. The first
parade was in 1871, and the subject presented was "Mother Goose's Tea Party."
The revellers went out of existence in 1876, but reorganized in 1894, when they
gave a grand masquerade ball. Since then the society has annually entertained
its friends at the French Opera House on Twelfth Night. The ball is very in-
teresting, reproducing all the old Creole customs and observances of Twelfth
Night, such as the cutting of the Twelfth Night or King's Cake, in which are
hidden the gold and silver mystic beans. The one who gets the slice contain-
ing the gold bean becomes "King" or "Queen," as the case may be, and the find-
ers of the silver beans become the royal attendants.

Rex

made his first appearance in 1872. This organization was started for the pur-
pose of bringing all the maskers of the city together for the entertainment of
the Grand Duke Alexis, who was in that year the guest of the City. The Grand
Duke reviewed the procession from the portico of the City Hall. Rex has ap-
peared ever since, and is called the "King of the Carnival." His court is com-
posed of Dukes and Peers of the Realm, appointed from the best circles of the
City. Like all the other organizations, Rex chooses a Queen, and this lady,
iiiTOSted with royal symbols, is known as the "Queen of the Carnival." The
entry of the King into his Carnival City takes place the Monday preceding
Mardi Gras, and is a magnificent display, in which are seen all the Dukes and
Peers of the Realm, forming the royal escort, the household of His Majesty,
the royal baggage, etc. He is supposed to come from a distant country, and a
gayly bedecked fleet of vessels of all sorts proceeds down the river to meet
him and escort his yacht to the landing-place at the foot of Canal Street. Hay-
ing arrived, amid the booming of cannon and the clash of martial music, a
parade is formed, and the King and his court are escorted through the principal
streets by all the local and visiting military to the Carnival Palace. At the
City Hall the Mayor of New Orleans presents the King with
the keys of the city on a silken cushion, on which are embroidered
the royal arms. Rex accepts them, and no ruler enjoys greater privileges or
has imrro loyal subjects than this merry monarch of a day. The annual parades,
which have continued since 1872, take place about noon on Mardi Gras, and are
gorgedus spectacles. At night Rex gives a magnificent ball at the Royal Palace,

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172

Washington Artillery Hall. The ballroom and throneroom are splendidly dec-
orated, and for three days after the Carnival are open to visitors. Mardi Gra«
is a legal holiday in New Orleans.
The first appearance of the

Knights of Momus

also made memorable the Carnival of 1872. Momus first gave his parades on
the last day of the year, but in 1876 the organization changed the time of the
processions to Carnival week. The first parade represented scenes from Scott's
romance, "The Talisman." "The Coming Race," a humorous and satirical fore-
cast of the progress of evolution, vras the subject in 1873. Momus did not ap-
pear in 1874, 1875 or 1879, but the intervening years down to 1886 were marked
by displays of great richness and beauty. In 1886, after a magnificent parade
and ball, the Knights of Momus ceased to participate in the Carnival. In 1889
the organization entertained its friends at the French Opera House with beau-
tiful tableaux from "The Culprit Fay," by Drake. In 1892 the gorgeous pano-
rama of "Aladdin and the Wonderful Lamp" was given. Annually since then
the Knights of Momus have given at the French Opera House a grand ball
and tableaux, which attract the elite of the social world. In the Carnivals of
1900, 1901, 1902 and 1903. the society was again represented bj^ a street pa-
geant of great beauty on the Thursday night preceding Mardi-Gras.

The Krewe of Proteus

was organized in 1882, appearing first on Mardi G-ras Eve of that year in a
series of brilliant tableaux, "The Dream of Egypt." Since that time Proteus
has not allowed a single year to pass without adding a brilliant contribution to
the Carnival festivities in its magnificent parade and ball. The fancy of the
artist, the thought of the historian, the dream of the poet, are allowed free
scope in the magnificent portrayal of subjects for pageant and tableaux,
whether in "A Trip to Fairyland," as in 1893, or in "B Pluribus
Unum," Proteus' idea of the States of the American Union, as expressed in
twenty moving tableaux in 1899. Year by year the beauty and grace of the
pageantry elicit the admiration of all observers.

The Krewe of Nereus,

organized in 1895. is the most youthful but one of the Carnival societies. For
{•everal years the Krewe limited its efforts to giving a ball at the French Opera
House. But in 1900 it supplemented this entertainment with a beautiful street
pageaci, mounting its tableaux on trolley cars, which afforded opportunity f«r
a beautiful display of electric illuminations.

Several other Carnival organizations, the Krewe of Consus, the Atlanteanfl,
the Elves of Oberon, the High Priests of Mithras, confine themselves to giving
one ball annually during the Carnival period. The Carnival of 1898 witnessed
the revival of the Phunny Phorty Phellows, a society nearly a quarter of a cen-
tury old, which formerly delighted the populace with a daylight procession mi
Mardi Gras, the themes selected being always of a humorous character.

The balls given by the various organizations having street parades begin
immediately after the parade has concluded, and generally occur at the French
Opera House, the maskers being put down from the floats as these draw up
before the venerable lyric temple. It is a wonderful sight to see the maskers
descending; the flaring torches, the ever-changing colors, the glittering tab-
leaux, the marvelous richness and beauty of the costumes, the managers shout-
ing orders, the staring crowds, all combine to make the scene a memorable one.

Admission to these balls is by invitation only, and the cards are not
transferable. Admission cards are distributed only through nomination by
members of the secret organizations. Strangers who have no friends through
. whom their names may be presented and communicated to the societies, may
write a note asking for invitations. If ratified by the committee, invitations
will he sent to the writer's address. Rex's ball is the popular one, and the at-
tendance often numbers 30,000. Invitations to this ball may also be procured
by applying to the Mayor. Nevertheless, the admission is hedged about with

173

mauy restrictions, and to be honored with an invitation is supposed to confer a
certain social rank not otherwise obtainable.

It is the custom of each organization to appoint a lady to preside as its

'Queen,"

and to select one of their number to exercise the brief sovereignty of King, repre-
senting "Rex," "Comus," "Proteus," "Momus," "Nereu,s," etc., as the case may
be. The King often exercises the privilege of choosing his consort, and always
presents her with magnificent jewels. For a week preceding the ball these hand-
some ornaments, crown and scepter, necklace and girdle, may be seen in the
show window of some Canal Street jeweler, or store on some other principal
thor( ghfare. The jewels are usually made in Paris, and are very costly. The
"Queen" chooses her maids of honor, who occupy with her one of the prosce-
nium boxes at the Opera House during the presentation of tableaux. The box
directly opposite is always reserved for the Queen and maids of the preceding
year. After the tableaux, the pretty ceremony of the coronation of the Queen
takes place, then the dancing of the Royal Quadrille. This is followed by sev-
eral beautiful dances, in which the maskers lead out the young ladies who have
been specially honored with a previous invitation. These ladies occupy special
seats in a body in the parquette, and to be "called out" by a masker is consid-
ered a great mark of distinction, while to be "Queen" of one of the balls is an
honor that clings to the recipient through smiles and tears in this quaint old
city. Each young lady who is called out receives from the masker
who has so honored her some beautiful gift, generally of jewelry,
and the air of mystery surrounding the giver makes it all the more
appreciated. Before the ball is over each masker has divested himself of
dainty accessories in the way of badges, scepters, rings and other ornamenta-
tion, and presented them to the lady of his choice. Of course, she is not sup-
posed to know who the donor is, and many a time she does not. These are only
some of the very pleasant courtesies that make these Carnival festivities unique
and happy memories. Many a love match is made on Mardi Gras night, and
"once Queen, forever Queen," has grown to be a pretty Carnival motto, just
as the King's royal anthem always remains "If Ever I Cease to Love."

At the Comus ball the principal event is the visit of the King and Queen
of the Carnival to the King and Queen of Comus. All the forms of royalty are
studiously observed.

How the Parades are flanaged.

The Carnival parades are managed by bodies of private citizens of the
highest social standing, who form the famous Carnival organizations. These
grntlemen spare no expense out of their own private means to make these street
liagenntF as beautiful, as magnificent and as instructive as possible. The ex-
pense of a single display ranges from $20,000 to $30,000, and sometimes higher.
The people are not taxed anything. They have only to come from their homes
and enjoy; and so with the thousands of strangers who find such a warm
welcome in New Orleans.

The work of the Carnival organizations in the preparation of these mag-
nificent street pageants is shrouded in impenetrable mystery. Besides exciting
the curiosity of the public to the highest degree, the strict secrecy maintained'
enables the organizations to begin their preparations for the next parade almost
as eoon as one is off the street.

In each organization the system of work is as complete, in a way, as an
established government, and the discipline maintained is like that of a small
army.

Each association has its own floats, ladders, housing for the draft-horses
and disguises for the torch-bearers. None of the organizations have any known
permanent meeting-place.

The association consists generally of about 250 members, mostly leading
chibmen, and it may be remarked that many of them have grown old in the
service, and are grandfathers. In getting up the parades about 100 gentlemen
are selected to appear in the display; the remainder are utilized for duties,
much more onerous than is generally supposed.

175

Mardi Gras is scarcely over before a meeting of the organization is sum-
moned, and plans are taken into consideration for the next parade. A design
committee is selected, the head of which is called the "Captain," and he is
invested with absolute power. The artist is then summoned for consultation.
Each committeeman proposes a subject for treatment, drawn from history,
poetrj. mythology, fairy lore or modern topics. Often the subject requires ei-
tiaordmary research to portray it properly and accurately. A half dozen of the
best of these suggestions are given to the artist, who makes a series of rough
ortiyon sketches, which are presented about a month after the first meeting.
The final selection of a subject is always a difflcut problem. Once the deci-
sion is made, the work begin,s in earnest. The artist is directed to make a
drawing of each float as it will appear in full parade, and also to prepare
sketches of each of the hundred or more costumes to be worn by the maskers.
Each study is elaborately finished and inscribed with the name of every ma-
terial which is to enter into the composition. These undergo the criticism of
the design committee. Such modifications or additions as are suggested are
made, and the characters are so distributed among the members of the associa-
tion as to harmonize with individutl peculiarities. Each card is then labeled oa
the back with a memorandum giving the height, size, girth, etc., of the gentle-
man who is to wear the costume. The

Designing of the Floats

is the hardest part of the artist's task. Each float is done in water colors on
a scale about twenty times as large as the costume card. Several sets are made,
one with each figure duly numbered and posted as it is to appear in the street
parade, is hung upon the wall of the clubroom in which the meetings are held,
there to be scrutinized and criticized diligently by the members. Another set
with the individual costume cards as marked, is sent to the manufacturer.

These preliminaries are usually over by July 1. In the meantime, the
papier mache workers are busy molding the different accessories required to dec-
orate each float. The costumes are usually received by December 1. As soon
a,s they arrive they are carried with utmost secrecy to the "Den," as the mys-
terious clubroom of the organization is generally called. Each suit is found
packed in a separate case and carefully labeled; they are taken out and ar-
ranged on a long table, each surmounted by its own corresponding picture. The
members come and try on their individual suits, and for weeks thereafter the
Court tailors, armorers and milliners are kept busy making such alterations
as arc necessary in the fit, makeup, etc. When this immense task is satisfac-
torily accomplished, each costume is replaced in its proper ca.se, and is duly
numbered. It is then locked up and laid aside for the eventful night.

In the meantime, the Float Committee, which has been furnished with a
third set of designs, has been busy at the

Float *'Den," located in some out=of=the=way place,

usually the yard of an abandoned cotton-press, where the building up of the
fioats has been going on quietly, noiselessly, and with the most profound
secrecy: though numbers of carpenters, painters, gilders, papier mache workers,
etc., ar( employed for months and months, strange to say, the secret of the place
is so well guarded that the public has no clue to its location or ever learns aught
of the preparations in progress. The "Ball Committee,' which arranges for
the grand function at the Opera House which invariably follows the parade, is
also busy; the balls are opened with a series of tableaux, embracing all the
characters that have appeared in the procession. The work of drilling the par-
ticipants in these tableaux is not the least part of the general preparations.
On the date fixed for the parade

All is Bustle and Excitement at the "Den."

If the parade is to take place at night the preparations begin about 2
o'clock in the afternoon; if during the day, they begin almost at sunrise. All
the drivers, torch-bearers, attendants, etc., are on the scene being drilled anew
iu the various duties that each is to perform with military precision. The boxes

176

containing the costumes were removed during the dead of night to some build-
ing in the vicinity of the yard where the floats are waiting. Every precaution
has been taken to prevent the public from even guessing to what purpose this
building is being applied. Exits from other houses are cut into it, the windows
are ktpt darkened, and the main doorways are never opened.

At the appointed hour the members begin to arrive. They bring their for-
mal evening dress with them. This they place in the boxes in lieu of the cos-
tumes, in which they proceed to deck themselves. If it is to be a night parade,
by 7 o'clock all are dressed. The roll is called, and the characters, securely
masked, take their places in line and undergo a last formal inspection. In the

TITLB BEARER PRECEDING MARDI GRAS FLOAT.

meantime, a committee has traversed the route over which the pageant is to
pass, to see that the street is free from all obstructions. The committee reports
all in readiness, and shortly after a squad of police makes its appearance. It
clears the streets and establishes a cordon around the yard for about four or five
squares. The torch-bearers are marshaled on the left side of the open space,
under the command of oflScers, who are stationed at regular intervals. The
floats are driven out of the press yard. The "Captain" calls the numbers, and
each gentleman, hearing his special numeral, takes his place upon the float to
which he has been assigned. This is driven off expeditiously, to make way for
its successor. The bands of music are then marched in position, the torchmen
surround the cars, and the

Procession is Ready to Move,

in romarkably short order. The "Captain" once more rides along the line to
ascertain that everything is as it should be, the signal is given, and the proces-
sion moves quietly and in darkness to the nearest large thoroughfare. A rocket,
piercing the evening sky with a lurid line of light, announces to the waiting
multitudes that throng all the line of march that the mysterious Krewe is once
again on the streets to delight their pleasure-loving hearts. Suddenly there is •
blaze of light, for the torches are lit and encircle each float in a brilliant paral-
lelogram of fire, and the streets are transformed into pictures of
Fairyland. The Krewe has come, whence no one knows; it will
return, where, no one can tell; but it is here; it tells its own story of

177

the time, the Uabor. the thought, tlie money that have been expended so lavishly,
so unselfishly for this pleasure of a few fleeting hours, xiud it is because of tliis
sweet sentiment underlying all, the utter unseltishness and thought of others,
toat the Carnival is so dear to our people.

No matter what route has been selected, the parade winds up at the French
Opera House at about 10 o'clock. Here the maskers dismount and the floats
disappear in the darkness from which tliey emerged. The boxes containing the
dress suits of the members have, in the meantime, been conveyed from tiie
"Den" to the dressing-rooms of the Opera House.

Within the great temple

All is Light and Beauty.-.

Tiers upon tiers are occupied by the most beautiful and brilliant women
of the city and lady guests from other States. The Queen of the evening is there
with her court, and the Queen and court of the previous year. Dozens of the

REX PARADE IN ST. CHARLES AVENUE.

most beautiful girls, who expect to be "called out," occupy honored seats within
the ribbon enclosure of the parquette. The curtain rises upon a brilliant series
of tableaux, after which the royal quadrille is danced, and after three or four
dances reserved for the maskers and the young ladies who have received special
invitations in advance, the floor is free to all, and the maskers mingle with the
brilHanc throng. As 12 o'clock strikes the maskers disappear quietly, one by
one. A few moments afterwards they return dressed in the conventional even-
ing society garb. They are obliged to present their invitations at the doors
like everyone else, so that it is absolutely impossible to obtain a clue to their
identity with the character personated during the parade. A great deal of
mirth and laughter follow, the rippling echo of some pretty girl who is sure
that sh( has found a clue, the gay badinage, the merry dance, and then the
deepening skies without and the shrill crow of some neighboring cock, announce
that it is "Ash Wednesday morn."

178

The ball is over, the masquers have fled; the Caruival of that year is a thing
of the past, and New Orleans, with a sigh for the bright hour of sunshine that
was hers, puts on once more a serious garb and says: "Come, children, let
us shut up the box and the puppets; turn we to better things."

The Carnival of 1904

will be in many respects the most brilliant ever known in New Orleans. Since
1890 there has been a disposition to prolong and elaborate the ceremonies, in
order to still better compensate the enormous crowds that throug our city iu
Carnival Week. The festivities will begin on February 11, when the Knights
of Momus will parade. On Monday, February 15, the arrival of Rex will be
m.nde the occasion of a daylight parade, and at night the Krewe of Proteus
will parade. The following morning, February 16. is Mardi Gras, and Rex
will marshal his court and people iu a street pageant. At night Comus will
close the Carnival in a blaze of glory. And so with the Carnivals to come;
each will outrival the preceding effort.

Special Carnival Editions of the Picayune,

beautifully illustrating the parades of Proteus and Comus can be obtained on
application at the Picayune ofHce.

During the next three years Mardi Gras will fall on the following dates:
^arch 7, 1905, February 27, 190G, February 12, 1907.

CHAPTEfR XX.

Out=of=Town Journeys.

The country about New Orleans is beautiful and characteristically South-
ern. The land of Evangeline, immortalized by Longfellow, lies just bej'ond
our doorways, and Arcady, sweet Arcady, the old hiding-place of Lafitte, the
first campgrounds of Iberville, are near enough to be familiar haunts.

The rude huts of the famous Choctaw Indians are but over the waterway,
I es-tling under the pines and bay trees of St. Tammany Parish. The mouth of
the Mississippi, the Gulf and the great jetties are a few hours' ride distant,
and all about and around the great sprawling city lie orange groves, white with
blossoms, or golden with fruit, cane fields and plantations.

Among the out-of-town journeys which the visitor should not fail to enjoy
is the trip down the river by steamer to Port Chalmette, over Lake Pontchar-
train *o Mandeville, Chiuchuba, Covington and Abita Springs, the trip along the
Mississippi coast to Bay St. Louis, Pass Christian and Biloxi, the .trip to Lake
Borgnp over the Shell Beach Raih'oad, to the pine hills of Magnolia and Cha-
tawa, Mississippi, on the Illinois Central, over the Mississippi Valley Railroad,
a run to the State Capitol at Baton Rouge, a boat trip to Bayou Sara, to Vicks-
burg or to Natchez. The picturesque TCche country, in which dwell the peace-
ful and quaint Acadians, is less than half a day's journey by rail.

Mandeville,

the nearest of the lake coast resorts, is one of the most picturesque of Southern
watering places. It was one- of the most fashionable resorts of old New Or-
leans. It lies in the heart of the piuey woods district, and nearby is the beau-
tiful village of Chinchuba, noted for its crystal springs. The Mandeville coast
«aiay be almost distinctly traced against the horizon from the shores of Milne-

179

burg, and is reached by excursion steamers from this point during the greatar
part of the year. It may be reached daily by the East Louisiana Railroad.

Within a few miles of Mandeville, easily accessible by stage or carriage
drive from this resort, are the old towns of

Covington and Abita Springs.

Both lie in the great piney woods belt, on the banks of the Bogue Falia
River, one of the most picturesque and beautiful streams in the United States.
Abira Springs derives its name from an old Indian legend, and signifies the
"Startled P^awn." The waters are medicinal. Covington is a noted health re-
sort. It may be reached by the East Louisiana Road or by the steamer Camelia,
which runs from Milneburg to Mandeville, thence turns into the Tchefuncta
Kivor as far as Old Landing. A more beautiful or picturesque trip could not
be imagined than along this winding river, with the pine trees singing their ever-
lasting threnody along the banks, and the cypresses almost lapping their
branches overhead. A pleasant trip can be made on the Shell Beach Road,
which makes a run of an hour and a half to the Gulf, or up the Illinois Central
Road to

riagnolia and Chatawa,

the latter one of the prettiest hill towns of Mississippi, lying on the banks of
the dark, fern-fringed Tangipahoa. '

There are small boats going tri-weekly to the jetties, but the luxury of a
river trip is only tested by a journey up the Mississippi River.

The up-river excursion to

Bayou Sara

afioids an opportunity of seeing the very best part of the Mississippi River scen-
ery, its orange groves and cane fields, and plantations with negro cabins
sprawling in the sunshine, and all occupied the year round. The old town of
riaquemines, the beautiful college and conveut in St. James Parish, the impos-
irg Slate Capitol at Baton Rouge, set on terraced hills, and altogether charming,
ere worthy of the two days, or perhaps less, time that it takes to make the
trii». All along the way the big boats stop continuously, and the tourist has
ample time to see plantation life and Southern villages, and know what it
means to go boating along the Mississippi.

Another delightful river trip is up the Bayou T6che to

New Iberia and the Old Town of St. flartinville.

Some of the finest sugar plantations in the State are to be seen along
this route. The towns are also directly reached by the Southern Pacific Rail-
road. New Iberia lies on the dreamy and beautiful bayou, in the heart of the
Land of Evangeline. This section of Louisiana is called the Valley of the
TOche, and is famous for the exquisite beauty of its scenery and the great
fertility of its land. It is called the "Garden of Louisiana."

Prom New Iberia to the

Great Salt Mine, on Avery Island,

is oily a short distance. A little railroad carries the tourist to the mines. It
is situated on Petit Anse Island, and the salt is found between eleven • and
thirty feet below the surface of the earth. The miners have worked over sixty-
five feet into the solid salt, which shows itself on a level with tidewater. The
^alt is supposed to extend hundreds of miles bolow the surface of the gulf, and
has been found to be superior to any other salt sold in the Southern markets.
New Iberia is in thr- heart of a great duck, snipe and fishing country. The
great eonieuian, Joseph JefferFon, has a summer home not far from New Iberia.
If the visitor is iniertsted in sugar-making, a visit to one of the plantations
within easy r<-ach of the ciry will be found satisfactory. Some of the largest
of these estates are on the vrcslern side of the river, but if he wants to see the
sugar country in its perfection, he should make the trip by steamboat

180

Down the Bayou Lafourche.

The trip o,in be rando at a small cost in about twenty-four hours by taking
a boat to Tliibodai'.x, ar.tl thence back to New Orleans by rail. Bayou La-
fourche is scarcely loss loveiy than Bayou Teche. The magnificent stretch of
sugar lands, the beautiful iilantation homes, the dreamy bayou, the generous
hospitality of the people, all combine to make the trip a pictured memory. Dur-
ing the grinding season, which lasts from November to February, a visit to a
sugar plantation is delightful.

By going to Morgan City, over the Southern Pacific Road, excursions can
be made on boat and steam tugs through the waterways by which the Atchafa-
iaya reaches the gulf. Anolher very pleasant expedition is by steamer through
the ewaiTips and bayous to

Grand Island.

This is a famous Crtole summer resort, and is noted for its fine surf bath-
ing. The Caminada Cheniere, the scene of a terrible disaster caused by a
stoi-m and tidal wave of 1893, through which over 2,000 lives were lost, is not
far from Grand Islans. Further on, outlined like a silhouette against the sky,
is a dark strip of land, the last the eye rests upon ere the waters of the Mex-
ican Gulf reach the sea. This is Isle Dernigre, or Last Island, which was at
that time the loost fa&hionab;" of all the gulf resorts. Thousands of lives were
lost, and l:alf of the island ittdi buried in the sea. Since that time it has been
abandoned. It is a murkcil spot, and the great tragedy of Last Island has
furnished nianr a tlieme fo;.' pcet and romancer.

ohaf=»te:fr XXI

From New Orleans to Mobile — ** Across the Lake" —

Short Sketches of the Gulf Coast

Summer Resorts.

Studding the beautiful stretch of Gulf coast that spans the distance from
New Orleans to Mobile lie pretty villages, whose many attractions in the way
of fishing, boating nnd balhmg have made them favorite resorts among New
Orleans people tcr ov:;r a century. Not only do the elite of the city have their
summer residences along this pleasant line, but even the poorest seek to spend
a day or two, at least, during the summer season, at some one of the gulf
resorts. From May to September, especially, these towns are overflowing with
the best people of .N'.-w Orleans- they are the scene of constant gayety. There
are yacht races and regattas, and fishing and hunting and boating parties, the
yacht races held at Bay St. Louis, Pass Christian and Biloxi enlisting general
interest. The salt lathing is delightful, the drives along the beach of surpass-
ing beauty. In front one sees the ever-changing glory of the white-crested sea;
in the. rear, magnificent belts of pine lands, that give life and health with every
resinous breath.

The salubrious climate and balmy winters of these resorts have of late years
attracted many Northern visHcrs and invalids, who spend the winter there.
They are finding out that Nev.- Orleans itself not only offers peculiar advan-
tages and inducements, both as a winter and summer resort, but at our very
doors are the health-giving land of the pine, and white beaches of the Mexican
Gulf, iamous hunting-giounds and bits of virgin forests, whose beauty and pic-
turesquenoss are tmlike those of any other section of the Continent.

And so the old city has become the point of departure for many wonder-
lands, not the least pleasant of which are the pretty resorts

181

^'Across the Lake,"

as the coast lino lliat iiuovvenes between New Orleans and its old French sister,
Mobile, was charmingly designated by the old Creole settlers. The Louisville
and Nashville Railroad is tljo only one which reaches these resorts. The pas-
senger station is located -.it the foot of Canal Street, less than 500 feet from
the river. There are usually two morning and two evening trains. During the
summer months cheap exciivsicns are a feature, and are patronized by enormous
crowds.

The run to Mobile is mr.do in about four hours. By taking a morning train
thi; visitor will have ample opportunity to study the scenery around New Or-
leans. Following the lino of the Pontchartrain for a little distance, the train
carries 'he tourist thvough the

"Prairie Tremblante," or Trembling Prairie.

This is a swampy expanse lying within the municipal boundaries of the city.

It is inhabited by squatieis, who eke out an existence by hunting, trapping
and fishing. They are mostly of the Austrian, Chinese and Malay races, and
live a life pecuhar to their ciasr..

Near this prairie, '.n a spct remote from the railroad, is a large colony of
Manilameu, probably the cnly one in the United States. Quaint negro cabins
dot the entire line of the railrdad, and every now and then is seen a pretty bit
of garden greenery, showing the home of some white resident. At Micheaud
and Lee Station small scllloments have grown up, but they are still unim-
portant.

Chef Menteur

ic! the first noteworthy slopping-place after leaving New Orleans. Chef Men-
teur signifies "Lying Chief." The French were deceived by the Chief of a
tribe of Indians living here. They perpetuated his infamy by bestowing the
namfi "Chef Menteur" upon the place and bayou. The bayou connects Lake
Borgne and Lake Pontchartrain, and is a famous place for fishing. Most of the
buildings at Chef Menteur are fishing clubs, the members of which reside in
New Orleans, but make constant excursions thither to pursue the gentle sport
of Sir Izaak Walton. Chef Menteur is 19.4 miles from New Orleans.

Lake Catherine, six miles further, is another settlement of fishing clubs
and fishermen. The train pauses here a moment, and then speeds on to the

Rigolets,

a thriving little town, with miniature dockyards and several residences of pro-
portion. The Rigolets is a deep channel which connects Lake Borgne and Lake
Pontchartrain. Through the car window is seen an apparently illimitable
stretch of marshy meadow, and in the distance white sails flash in the sun-
shine, as though some boat were sailing over dry land. But in reality the boat
is pursuing its course silently through one of the many tortuous, narrow, yet
deep, waterways which intersect the marshy ground in all directions, and the
very existence of which can scarcely be noticed except when almost directly
upon the banks. This .series of natural canals crossing and recrossing in all
diioetions afford many excellent channels for schooners, luggers and other small
craft. The Rigolets mark the boundary line along the coast between Louisiana
and Mississippi. The distance from New Orleans to the Rigolets is 30.3
miles. Between the Rigolets and the next point of interest,

English Lookout,

is a spreading live oak, which is famous as the last tree in Louisiana. English
Lookout is so called because in 1814 a post was established here by the Ameri-
cans to watch the movements of the English fleet moving up the Mississippi
Sound on the way to attack New Orleans. Here the train crosses the Missis-
.sippi line. Lookout is thirty-six miles from New Orleans. It is also famous
as the place where Pearl River, which forms the eastern boundary of Louisiana,

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183

empties into the lake. The trip up Pearl River is very picturesque. A small
.steamer plies bet\\een Lookout, Gainesville, Columbia, Logtown and Pearling-
tciJ. the latter being tiie site of extensive saw mills. Pearl River runs through
a section famous fur its splendid timber lands. A trip along Pearl River will,
repay the fisherman.

Gulf View,

•which is the first important stop along the Mississippi Sound, has only recently
sprung into existence. Some very handsome hunting and fishing clubs and
lodges, owned by private citizens in New Orleans, dot the route. The name
"Gulf View" was given to the settlement because it is near this point that the
tourist catches the first glimpse of the blue waters of the Mississippi Sound
stretching away to the right, as the train speeds on through the deuse growth of
pine forests.

From Gulf View to the beautiful town of

"Waveland"

is comparatively a short distance. Waveland is forty-eight miles from New Or-
leans. It lies on the banks of the lovely bay that Bienville named for the
patron saint of his loyal master, St. Louis. It is just two miles from Bay St.
Louis proper, and. indeed, may be said to be the new Bay St. Louis, or a cod-
tniuation of the old Creole watering place. But Waveland is a distinct town.
It is incorporated under the laws of Mississippi, and has its own Mayor. It
is populated almost entirely by wealthy people, many of whom have their homes

HOMK OF THE POKT PEARL KIYEKS — WAVELAXD, MISS.

in New Orleans and maintain beautiful summer residences here. Among th»^
handsome residences, which are distinctly Southern in architecture, and, there-
fore, quite different from summer residences in Northern resorts, is the .summer
home of the late proprietors of the Picayune, Mr. and Mrs. George Nicholson,
and now the residence of their sons. The train makes a short stop one mile
further, at Nicholson Avenue, and in a few moments

Bay St. Louis

is reached. A settlement was founded by the French at Bay St. Louis shortly
after the est;iblislini<^nt of the French colony at Biloxi. A similar settlement
was also made at Pascagoula. In 1727 Governor Perier made a tour of these
settlements, reporting upon their condition to the French Government. The real

184

liistor.v of tlie "Bay," as it is commonly called, began in 1820. when General
Shields, the United States Lighthouse Inspector, built two houses at the lower
end.. One if these original houses still stands, near the Crescent
Hotel. The Government considered the site so healthful that for several yeara
it quartered troops there in a barracks, which stood on the beach, between the
sites new occupied by the Crescent Hotel and St. Stanislaus College. For a
while the place was called Shieldsboro, but the designation was altered years
ago. Bay St. Louis is 51.9 miles from New Orleans. It is situated on a
high peninsula, comprising some 20,000 acres. The population is about 3,000.
Towards the lower end are the homes of many of the ancient Creole families
of ante-bellum days. Along the drive towards Waveland, skirting the beauti-
ful beach, are many new and charming homes of a more modern character.
In the old town, which was the most aristocratic of the gulf coast watering
places before the war, and which still holds its own. stands the Church of Our
Lady of the Gulf, erected in 1872 at a cost of $30,000. St. Joseph's Convent,
established in 1854, and St. Stanislaus College are interesting educational in-
stitutions. The quaint old graveyard is well worth a visit. All along the
beach are magnificent live oaks that have defied the ravages of time and tide.

Bay St. Louis has several very good hotels and a number of charming pri-
vate boarding-houses.

Leaving the town, the train crosses immediately the broad and beautiful
expanse of Bay St. Louis. The track is carried on a trestle-work, much of which
is encased or sheathed in huge earthenware pipes to protect it from the teredo
worm. The scene in crossing the waters is very picturesque. The beautiful
homes nestling amid the trees along the pebbly beach, the fishing smacks and
sailing boats, with their white sails flying in the breeze, often as not the glimpse
©f some Italian fisherman singing a gay bacarole or dreamy opera as he throws
his net. are pictures that come floating over the waters with every dancing ray
of sunlight reflected in the white-crested waves. Just over the way is the
beautiful Pass, and nestling on its banks, like a white-robed Queen, is the fair
town of

Pass Christian.

It is also situated on a peninsula, and extends along the coast for nearly six
miles. On the north are Bayou Portage and Bayou D'Or. The latter has been
so named on account of the golden brilliancy of the foliage along the banks
in autumn. Bayou Portage follows a devious course, at one point approaching
within a mile of the sea. The Indians knew this fact, and in the old days used
to save a journey of nearly twenty miles by hauling their canoes across the
narrow neck of land. The town is named in honor of a Swedish sailor named
Christian, who discovered the pass, which leads from the Gulf of Mexico into
the Mississippi Sound, near Cat Island. Pass Christian is fifty-seven miles from
New OrJeans. It has a population of about 2,000. The magnificent trees are
the admiration of tourists. The Pass has several fine hotels, and is a very
popular resort with Northern visitors.

From the train Avindow a good view is had of

Cat Island,

which, with Ship Island and Chandeleur Island, was the first land that Iber-
ville and Bienville discovered before entering the Mississippi River. The name
■^at Island," then bestowed, has been retained to this day. Its origin is pecu-
liar. When the French first landed there they found large numbers of a strange
iooking animal that somewhat resembled a fox, but was more like a cat. Not
knowing what it was, one of the exploring party exclaimed: "Why, this must
be the kingdom of cats." At once the name "Cat Island" was given to the
jiace. The animal is now known as the raccoon. Cat Island is about eight miles
long, and practically arid. It lies about ten miles out from Pass Christian.
About ten miles beyond Pass Christian lies the progressive city of

Gulf port,

the latest of the beautiful Gulf coast resorts, but one which has substantiated the
proud boast of having- grown more rapidly' than any other Southern city.

185

The marvelous growth of Gulfpgrt has been practically within the last
three or four years. Twelve jears a.go there was only one house on its
shores. To-day the town boasts of a population of 4,500 inhabitants; it is
regularly and beautifully laid out, with wide well-paved streets; it has its
own water-work systen-", its own electric light plant, manj- large and hand-
some residences, and the most magnificent hotel on the seacoast. Its won-
derful growth is due to the public spirit and enterprise of Capt. T. J.Jones,
who believed in the possibilities of establishing a splendid sea-port, right
on the Mississippi Sound, connecting the ocean traffic directly with the
great west, with sturdj' determination set about making his dream arealitj-,
a few years ago. He built the Gulf and Ship Island Railroad, connecting
Gulfpoi-t with the Illinois Central Railroad at Jackson, Miss. He caused
a harbor to be dredged on the west side of his new town, having a depth of
30 feet of water at the wharf. He dug a channel from the harbor to Ship
Island, a distance of twelve miles out in the Gulf, thus practically connect-
ing the coast with the ocean. Steamships and sailing vessels, tlrawing 22
feet of wjter, now come directl}- to the wharves at Gulfport. An immense
lumber tratfic has been established, and timber is being shipped to all parts
of the world. Capt. Jones built the Great Southern Hotel, containing about
400 rooms and magnificently equipped in ever}- wa}% It is one of the
largest hotels in the South, the largest on the Gulf coast, and the equal of
the famous Florida East Coast Hotel in system. The electric cars run a
mile along the wharf leading to an immense pavilion, and to the beautiful
Yacht Club House which is modern and complete in ever3' detail. The city
•of Biloxi intends building an electric car line to Gulfport, and Gulfport has
secured the franchise to build a similar line to Pass Christian, thus con-
necting those celebrated seacoast resorts b3' easy and rapid transit. Capt.
Jones has a magnificent five-storj' office building. Business activities are
continuallj' on the alert, and tourists come from all sections, not only to
■enjoy the delightful sea breezes and the advantages offered by sojourn in
this popular resort, hut also to study the growth of the place and its great
possibilities for the future.

Just beyond Cat Island, and visible from the Biloxi beach, is

Ship Island,

one of the most imposing landmarks in the history of Louisiana, whether as
Colony, Territory or State. It is one of the four low islands (Cat. Chandeleur
and Round) that, stretching ten or twelve miles along the gulf coast, form th«
Mississippi Sound. Ship Island is only seven miles long and three-quarters of a
mile wide. It belongs to the State of Mississippi, but is, in fact, ten miles dis-
tant from the nearest point of that State. Ship Island was discovered in 1699
l>y Bienville. In 1814 it served as a rendezvous for the British fleet that was
advancing against New Orleans. It was to its white sands and quiet harbor
that they retreated for refuge after the disastrous results of the battle on the
plains of Chalmette. In the Civil War it was for a while a safe and convenient
place of organization. The history of the island as a place of banishment for
those -^-ho had incurred the displeasure of General Butler during his occupancy
of New Orleans has made its name inseparably connected with the later history
of the city. The white beach of the island glistening in the sun forms a conve-
nient landmark for mariners.

The train makes a short stop at Long Beach, about sis miles from the
Ta,ss. It is a recent thriving settlement and rapidly becoming known as d
resort. Long Beach boasts of a good hotel. A few minutes' run brings the
tonrlst to

Mississippi City,

which is a very prosperous town and the County seat of Harrison County, As
far back as 1830 a great city was projected here, and elaborate plans
were made for its establishment. A great harbor was planned, and the older
of the two present good hotels was erected soon after. But the extensive scheme
required the aid of the United States Government to materialize. This aid was
not forthcoming, and the project languished. Mississippi City has a population
of about 1,200. Its hotels are considered very excellent. It is 70.4 miles from
New Orleans.

186

Beauvoir,

the old home of Jefferson Davis. President of the Confederacy, is a little over
four miles' drive from Mississippi City. Carriages may be taken to this historic
place of interest at Mississippi City. Mr. Davis and family lived at Beauvoir
during the last years of his life. He died in New Orleans. The old mansion
has recently beeii purchased by the Sons of Confederate Veterans of Mississippi
as a home for impoverished Confederate veterans.

The Seashore Campgrounds,

which is quite a large settlement, lies between Mississippi City nnd Biloxi. The
grounds are the property of the New Orleans, the Mobile and the Seashore

187

District Conferences of the Methodist Episcopal Chnrch. South. Every summer
two weelcs of religious revivals are held here. The revivals attract visitors
from all parts of the far South. The grounds are occupied by wooden buildings
called "tents," where many people go to spend the summer. Many prominent
Methodists have their special 'tents," or summer houses, here. The bathing at
this point is unsurpassed.

Very near the Campgrounds lies the town of

Biloxi,

The town was founded by Bienville in 1718. Though the first settlement
by the French was made over the bay in the old town of Biloxi, now known
as Ocean Springs, this point stands for the first permanent settlement in Louis-
iana, all Mississippi and the surrounding country having formed a part of the
Louisiana Province. In the year mentioned the capital of the entire Province
was transferred to this point. Prior to this date a warehouse and a few other
buildings had been erected on the site, which was known to the French as Deer
Island. Bienville look up his quarters in the old warehouse. In 1723 the
capital was transferred to New Orleans. Nothing ot interest marked the history
of the Biloxi settlement until 1760, when for a brief &i ce of time it was in-
cluded in the British possessions, the transfer having been effected by treaty
between the European Powers. It became a Spanish town by conquest in 1780.
After the cession of Louisiana to the United States, Spain contended that thft
Districts of Feliciana, East Baton Rouge, St. Helena, St. Tammany, Biloxi
and Pascagoula were a part of West Florida, and had not been sold with Louis-
iana. President Madison held that the District of West Florida belonged, by
the treaty of 1803, to the United States, and was a part of the Territory of
Orleans

In '1810 the inhabitants of Bayou • Sara, which was a part of the West
Florida contention, revolted and declared themselves independent of Spain.
The Bayou Sarans attacked the Spanish fort at Baton Rouge and captured it.
and asked to be annexed to the United States. President Madison told them
quietly that the District of Florida already belonged to the United States, and
directed Governor Claiborne to take possession of the district. Claiborne
marched at the head of his militiamen to St. Francisville and took possession of
the entire district in the name of the United States. The people cheerfully sub-
mitted to his authority. Subsequently Biloxi and Pascagoula became part of
the State of Mississippi. Biloxi is a great resort for New Orleans people. It
is seventy-nine miles from New Orleans. It has a population of 4.500. The
town is lighted by electricity, possesses large canning and lumber interests and
is supplied with abundant artesian well water. The bathing is delightful, the
boating and fishing unexcelled. Its hotels, clubs, residences and churches are
numerous and handsome.

A long trestle reaches from Biloxi to

Ocean Springs,

the oldest town in all the area of what was known to the French of old Louis-
iana. This is the settlement founded by Iberville in 1G99. He found on this
spot an old Indian village called Biloxi. and he located his settlement here, re-
taining the name, which sprang from the tribe of Biloxians who inhabited the
section. For twenty years this place was the capital of the province. Sauvolle
the brother of Iberville, and the first Governor of Louisiana, was killed here
by the Indians. The late historian, Gayarre. identified his tomb on the site of
the old French fort. When Bienville founded the new town of Biloxi on the
other side of the bay, this point became known as Old Biloxi. It retained this
name for over a hundred and fifty years. The modern town sprang up about
1854, when several prominent New Orleans gentlemen purchased large properties
there, and sought to bring its merits as a watering place into notice. The name
"Ocean Springs" was given to the old town, the name being taken from sev-
eral springs thought to have curative properties which are located on the estate
of the late William B. Schmidt, who was one of the leading citizens of New
Orleans. The town is very pretty and picturesque. There are some very beau-
tiful homes and several fine hotels. The oldest hotel was established in IKiTi.
The population of Ocean Springs is about 1,400. The town is eighty-three miles
from New Orleans.

188

Scranton

Is the only other stopping-place that the train makes before crossing into the
State of Alabama. The place is really a part of the old town of Pascagoula,
which ^comprised Pascagoula proper, as the old French settlement along the
seacoast is called, Scranton, the county seat, and Moss Point, a pretty little
town on Dog River, about four miles from Scranton

Scranton was named in honor of a former official of the railroad which
brought the town into existence about thirty years ago. The population is about
2,0UU. The town possesses many saw mills and ship yards; an admirable har-
bor afforded by the Pascagoula River has brought the place considerable for-
eign commerce. Scranton is ninety-nine miles from New Orleans. A mile drive
from Scranton to the seashore brings the visitor to the ancient town of

Pascagoula.

The drive leads through wild and pisturesque scenery that is very ro-
mantic. Pascagoula is an old Indian A'illage, deriving its name from the famous
tribe that inhabited this section. Indian mounds of considerable extent, it is
said, are still to be seen in the vicinity. Soon after Iberville settled at Old
Biloxi or Ocean Springs, the colonists established a branch station here. This
wa.s the beginning of tlie present town. When Louisiana was ceded to Spain
all Pascagoula was granted by the King of Spain to Colonel Krebs, a distin-
guished officer in the Spanish army, in recognition of important services. Here
he settled, and along the banks of the bay and river his descendents have lived
from generation to generation. When the depredations of the Indians necessi-
tated the settlers banding together for their protection. Colonel Krebs built a
strong fort, the walls of which were twelve feet thick, just at the junction of
•the Pascagoula River and Bay. Years afterwards his descendants built a
beautiful home on the spot, retaining the old historic fort as a part of the resi-
dence. A magnificent avenue of live oaks leads up to this old home, which is a
point of interest to all visitors.

Hard by the ancient fortress home is heard the famous "mysterious
music," which comes up from the mouth of the river. No explanation of
this wierd melody has ever been adduced, but it is a positive fact that at cer-
tain hours strange singing notes emanate from the water. Many strange legends
ai-e, of course, connected with it, one of which is that the sounds are tha wails
of an Indian girl moaninj; for her lover, who was drowned at this point; she
sprang in after him, and, failing to save his life, has never ceased to bemoan
his fate. Another is that in a feud that arose between the Biloxi and Pasca-
goula Indians the former surprised the latter one dark and stormy night. Rather
than fall into the hands of the hated enemy the entire tribe, men, women and
children, sprang into the waters with the warwhoop still lingering on their
lips, and this is the weird echo which from that day to this haunts the spot.

Crossing the Alabama line, the train stops at Grand Bay and St. Elmo,
both thriving little towns, located, respectively, 115 and 120.8 miles from New
Orleans.

nobile

is reached in an hour. This important Southern city, the older French sister of
New Orleans, is 140.5 miles distant from the great metropolis. Mobile was
founded by Bienville in 1702, when he built a fort and established a colony near
the site of the present city. It derives its name from the tribe of Mobile Indians
that inhabited the section. In 1785 Galvez took the first -census, and found that
it had a population of 74G. The number steadily increased, and in 1788 there
were 1330 inhabitants. After this period the importance of the place dimin-
ished, and in 1803 there were only 803 inhabitants. In 1813 it was surrendered
to the Americans by Gayetaud Perez; the population had still further de-
clined to 500. In 1814 Mobile was incorporated as a town, and in 1819 as a
city. The rise of the city was remarkable after that. It grew in strength and
importance, and became a leading Southern port. Its commerce was very great.
The population at present is about 50,000. In 1864 the Federal fleet, under
Admiral Farragut, fought a celebrated battle in the bay against the Confeder-
ate fleet, under Admiral Buchanan. In March and April, 1865, the city was
besieged by the Federals, under General E. S. Canby, and, after a desperate
tiefense by the Confederates, led by General D. H. Maury, was compelled to sur-

1S9

render. Mobile contains many interesting buildings and fine churches and
hotels. Nearby is Springhill, with its famous old college. The city has a tine
harbor and a constantly increasing commerce, especially with Cuba and Central
America.

CHAPTER XXII.

Hunting and Fishing Near New Orleans.

Sportsmen from the frozen North T\ho come down to delightful New Or-
leans, to learn the art of enjoyment, often go away without taking advantage
of an opportunity to hunt over the most wonderfully varied shooting grounds
in the country. There is no section of the United States where a greater variety
of game can be had with less trouble and expense. Within half a dozen miles
of the heart of the city deer roam their native woods; quail can be found only
a little further away; while, within a radius of twenty-tive miles, every vai-iety
of land and water game, known to the semi-tropics is found and killed, and
brought back as evidence, too, of the huntsman's prowess.

Northern huntsmen who are accustomed to travel miles and pay
large sums for the privilege of shooting, have no idea of the sport
which Louisianians secure with little effort. To say that a band of
deer hunters will leave the city on a morning train and return that
night, with two, three or four deer, which have cost an outlay of about
$2 each, seems incredible; but, nevertheless, it is true. Unlike the sportsmen
away up in the cold section, the Louisiana hunters have fine shooting for
months at a time. The season is not limited to two weeks, but includes four
months of good shooting.

The distinctly unusual formation of the land around New Orleans furnishes
almost every variety of territory. Within a few miles of the river. Lake
Pontchartrain laps the edge of a dense swamp, which narrows down to the east-
ward into twenty-five miles of unbroken marsh land, often designated as the
"trembling prairie."

In this prairie wild duck and geese find their feeding grovmds. They come
south with the first sign of cold in October, and remain faithful to the semi-
tropics until the midde of March. The blue-winged teal and the wood ducks
arrive earlier, and leave for the Mexican coast during the coldest of the winter
months, returning toward the end of February, and then remain here until as
late as May. During the winter months, ducks furnish the great sport for the
local marksmen and their Northern frineds. Across Lake Pontchartrain are
high lands, clothed with thick bay and gum woods, in which excellent quail,
turkey and squirrel shooting is found. On both sides of the Mississippi, about
five miles back from the levee, there are miles of cypress swamps which are
populated by the cotton-tail deer.

The farthest east of the shooting grounds of Louisiana is called

English Lookout.

Pearl River, the eastward boundary of the State, flows through Lookout
on its way to the sea. In this river, during the summer months, the fishermen
have great sport, landing bull redfish, speckled trout, sheepshead and the jack-
fish, the latter being a small edition of the California tuna and just as game.
The tuna is, of course, five times as large as the jackfish, which is rarely ex-
ceeds 40 pounds in weight. But these 40-pounds are sufficient to furnish
two hours' hard work to the most skilled angler, so valiant and determined is
the struggle this iish puts up to avoid capture.

In the bayous and lagoons up Pearl River the anglers find half a dozen
varieties of perch, and the black bass, which is the best of all Southern fresh
water fish.

In order to liave a day's sport at Lookout, it would be necessary for a
stranger to secure a card to one of its many small private clubs, for there
are no public fishing camps at this point. The shooting at Lookout in recent
j-ears has not been exceptionally good, although in the spring of the year and

190

late winter plenty of snipe are found in the eastward prairies, on a neck of land
which reaches out into the sea and ends at St. Joe Lighthouse.
At the

Rigolets,

just five miles to the westward, the natural conditions are magnificent for
fishermen, and hunters, too, have plenty of assistance from nature. Just to
the west of the Rigolets is a vast stretch of territory known to hunters aa
the "Seven Ponds." It extends nearly to the railroad tracks and back to the
edge of the open sea. The "Seven Ponds" country is famous. A few years
ago the entire area was purchased by a good hunter, and is now a preserve.
No hunter not connected with the camp is allowed to shoot in it without having
first secured permission; but strangers, properly introduced, have no trouble in
securing permission to shoot in the grounds.

If the hunter cares only for snipe shooting, this permit would not b©
necessary, for there are miles of open country where the snipe feed. It is only
the choicest of ponds which come under the protection of the preesrves.

Lake Catherine,

the best duck-hunting ground in this section, is only three miles away from the
Rigolets^ and here hunters can be accommodated with excellent quarters,
'boats, decoys and guides. As the season advances, though there are thousands
of birds, they become very wise and it requires the services of a good guide to
locate them.

Of all sporting points along the Gulf coast. Lake Catherine seems the best
situated and best equipped. There are hundreds of lagoons which are filled with
wild fowl, scores of bayous teeming with bass and perch, and the open sea
water near at hand affords, during the warms months, all kinds of sea fishing.
To the stranger. Lake Catherine and Chef Meuteur. just twenty miles from
New Orleans, would be the most desirable visiting points.

There are two public camps at Lake Catherine. Jacquet, a veteran sports-
man, operates a sportsman's hotel, and he has become famous all along the
line of clubhouses for his cooking. At this camp a hunter can hire everything
needed, excepting the gun.

Chef Menteur.

Chef Menteur is a fishing ground which has long since won a reputation
in the South. In the summer months this locality is fi'equented by scores of
anglers and every variety of fish known in Louisiana is landed. Until the winds
change to the southward and bring in the salt water from the sea, the fishermen
find none of the sea fish for which the State is noted. They find bass in the
bayous, however, and this fish, to a Louisiana angler, furnishes all the sport and
choice food desired. There are bayous near the Chef where an angler can be
reasonably certain of good sport. In addition to the sport, there are accom-
modations for as many fishermen as care to run out of the city for a day in the
open. Several public camps are operated by competent professional fishermen,
who know every foot of the country and are the very best guides. The Chef "s,
in addition, the home of half a dozen of the largest fishing clubs in the State.

At this point the marsh lauds end and the swamp begins, to terminate
finally in the high lands of what is called "Metarie Ridge." Along the slopes of
this ride the cotton-tail deer are found in large numbers, while rabbits make
their warrens everywhere.

St. Bernard and Plaquemine Parishes.

To the south of the city, along the line of the Fort Jackson and Grand Isle
Road, which runs down as far as Buras, and along the line of the New Orleans
and Southern Road, which ends at Shell Beach, on Lake Borgne, the game is
equally as plentiful.

During the months of February and March, especially, the marsh lands,
some fifty miles down the Grand Isle Road, present the most inviting coun-
try to tlie stranger. In these marshes can be found a world of snipe and
rail, known to the local hunters as marsh hens. They are not difficult to get
at and still furnish plenty of fine shooting. Near Shell Beach is located the
famous Bayou San Malo, where some of the largest green trout in this section

have been landed. Closer to the city, near Shell Beach, the sportsman could
make a trip in a couple of days and find accommodations and guides. Closer
to the city, too, back of the cane fields, there are miles of country where the
cotton-tail deer are very pleutii'ul. In Louisiana the deer seems the most com-
mon of all classes of game.

To a party of hunters, or to the solitary hunter who wishes to make a
journey into an ideal duck and goose country, the Head of the Passes, at the
very mouth of the river offers the best shooting in the South. On the westward
bank of the river, some twenty miles below the forts, is a pass known as the
Jump, which leads from the river to the marshes bordering on the sea. On the
east bank is Cubitt's Gap, which also leads from the river to the sea.

The Jump.

In the Jump there are plenty of professionals who will look after visitoni
for a consideration, and at Empire Postoffice, in Plaquemines, lives Captain
Tony Rodriques, a guide, who is noted throughout that entire section of the
country. Bay Adam, with fine sea fishing all the year round, is located on the
Grand Isle Road. Bay Adam is known to the people of New Orleans not only
as a hunting and fishing quarter, but as the pass which leads to the mouth of
Bayou Cook and the famous oyster beds. Both in the bay and at the mouth
of the bayou are oyster beds which extend over miles of territory and which
furnish a majority of the oysters for the local market.

In February the tarpon fishing begins. Tarpon in this part of Lou-
isiana are as plentiful as in any section of Florida and are much easier to
reach. By leavhig the city in the morning the fisherman can reach the tarpon
grounds in time to make his first cast the same afternoon. With good luck, he
can be back the next day with a silver fish, king of the Southern waters. In
recent years many saccessful catches have been made, by both local and yiait-
ing fishermen; but, of course, to find the proper grounds one will need a guide.

On the eastward bank qf the river, at a point called St. Sophie, teal duck
shooting is magnificent.

St. Tammany Parish.

To the north of the city, across the big Lake Pontchartrain and ou the
line of three railroads, an entirely different kind of hunting can be found. At
present, the easiest of these localities to reach is St. Tammany Parish, on the
line of the East Louisiana Road. St. Tammany, although close to the city, is
high, and, in places, a rolling country. Here are found quail in big covies;
turkeys frequent the bottom lauds along Pearl River, and the Bogue Falia,
Bogue Chitto and Amite Rivers. East and West Pearl Rivers inclose what
is ciflled Honey Island. This densely overgrown stretch of land is filled with
big and small game.

The stranger who goes hunting in St. Tammany should travel on the
East Louisiana to Abita Spi'iugs, there secure the services of a guide, and
strike out into the country. Both quail and woodcocks are fairly plentiful, and
a good shot ought to bag twenty to thirty quail and a dozen woodcock in u day.

All along the line of the railroad, as far down as Pearl River, where the
junction with the Queen and Crescent line is made, quail are thick. A few
years of good protection have allowed the covies to multiply until the country
is fairly filled with birds. In the gum swamps the gray squirrels frolic on
every tree, and, to the eastward of Covington, and throughout the entire parish,
in fact, the foxes are "driven" by the enterprising marksman. All these point*
can be reached in an hour or two from New Orleans.

Tangipahoa Parish.

The Illinois Central Road, from a point ten miles outside the city, furnishe*
excellent shooting grounds. At Bayou La Branche, Owl Bayou, Pass Mauchac,
and further on in the high lands of Tangipahoa I'arish, at Hammond, Amite
City, Pouchatoula, as far as the Mississippi line, the quail have long made the
country famous.

Formerly turkeys were very plentiful in Tangipahoa, but in recent
years the parish authorities have checked the hunters, as the birds were being
rapidly exterminated.

192

The beautiful Taugipahoa River furnishes fine bass fishing, in addition to
quail shooting. By traveling up the Illinois Central to Pontchatoula, and
driving out to Davis' Ferry, visiting anglers will find the black bass and rock
bass plentiful enough to furnish amusement for a couple of daj's.

If the hunter desires to penetrate the dense undergrowth of Honey Island
for deer, turkey and bears, the services of a guide will be absolutely necessary.
Often men have been "lost" in this famous island. Guides, however, may be
secured at Pearl River Statiou, and the trip will pay the stranger.

He will see a virgin forest which rivals the jungles of the tropics in thick-
ness. The very denseness of the island has made it famous in past years as the
home of fugitive criminals. It was to this island that Bunch, the train robber,
who terrorized the South for years, went for safety after each hold-up. He
n-as, in fact, killed amid the umbrageous coverts of this little-explored locality.

Alotig Lake Pontchartraiti.

Both the Queen and Crescent and East Louisiana Roads cross Lake Pont-
chartrain on one of the. longest railroad bridges in America. It is thirteen miles
from shore to shore, and on both of these shores there are good hunting grounds,
while the lake itself furnishes plenty of game fish. At the south end of the
bridge, called South Point. Phil Geiger operates a comfortable public camp,
which is fully equipped. The bayous which come out of the marshes have plen-
ty of black Isass and perch, and toward the close of winter these fish are ex-
ceptionally good eating.

Just as soon as the first signs of warm weather make themselves felt the
fish come through the passes from the sea and are found at South Point.
Strange undercurrents seem to affect this point more readily than any other
locality, and as a result the fishing begins there earlier and the sport is good
for months longer than in any other quarter of the lake.

At the north end,famaliarly termed

North Shore,

of the big bridge, are situated two handsome private clubs. Visiting anglers can
find no accommodations there unless by special invitation. Once admitted as
a guest of either of the clubs, they will find a way open to one of the best duck
and snipe shooting grounds near New Orleans. The clubs, some time ago,
combined to purchase the marsh lands and turn them into preserves. Only
members of these two clubs are allowed to shoot upon these private grounds.
Salt Bayou, which runs through the marshes, upholds a record as one of the
best black bass waters within miles of the city. In addition to its natural ad-
vantages, the North Shore has the further feature of being close to the city.
Anglers or hunters can leave New Orleans on one evening train and return on
the next.

Game Laws.

The laws of the State and city are liberal. No restrictions are placed upon
the number of deer, ducks, quail or turkeys killed, as in other States.

The deer season is open five months in the year and one man may kill as
many as his good foi-tune and skill will allow. There is an unwritten law
which prohibits his killing game at night, however. He may shoot and bring
back to the city from any of the surrounding parishes all the ducks, quail and
turkeys that he can find. In St. Tamany Parish, however, he will not be al-
lowed to sell any game killed. The State law furnishing protection to game
has been passed with a view to promoting the sport, not restricting it.

It must be a sportsman, however, for no vagrant, professional or pot
himter can operate in this State under the law.

The laws granting protection to the fishing interests are purely local. Each
parish passes its own regulations, which are intended to meet the conditions
existing in that particular locality. All these laws, however, have fixed Feb.
15, of each years, as the date for the closing of the open green trout or black
bass season.

There is so little really cold weather in Louisiana that the bass spawn
much earlier than they do in the North, and it is necessary to close the season
before the warm days of spring arrive in order to secure the proper protection.
Anglers are fortunate, however, for they have perch fishing in the fresh water

193

streams all the time and very early sea fishing in the spring, which leaves only
a few weeks during which fishermen are debarred from their favorite pursuit.

In catching the black bass there is but one thing of which the stranger
must be careful; he must not keep bass that are smaller than 10 inches in
length. A special ordinance prohibits the catching of such small fish. They are
not fit for food and only serve to spoil a good fish for next season.

New Orleans

offers opportimities to visiting sportsmen which are nowhere excelled. Where
else can a locality be found in which deer are killed daily within ten miles of tliS
iieart of such a city, or where duck grounds, which will furnish forty and fifty
birds to a single gun in a morning, lie within twenty miles of thickly-populated
centers? The hunters of New Orleans are numbered by the hundreds, simply
for the reason that they can leave on Saturday afternoon and return on Sunday
with plenty of game. Time is, of course, the great factor, but the question of
economy plays an important part. Almost any hunting ground mentioned here
can be visited at a cost of not more than $5 per man, including railway fare.

Liberality, generosity and good fellowship seem the three main cliarac-
tertistics of Louisiana fishing and hunting. If the laws of the State are liberal,
tne sportsmen, too, will be found generous in the extreme, and the very best
of fellowship prevails, even among the most bitter rivals in the championship
ranks. To lovers of the rod and gun from the far off North, the field in
Louisiana will prove a revelation, and no true sportsman should leave New Or-
leans without testing the great advantages offered by every acre of land, and
almost every waterway, within fifty miles of the city.

CHAPTER XXlll.

The Commerce of New Orleans.

The commercial year of New Orleans begins on September 1, and, of course,
terminates August 31. The reason for this is obvious, as all the staple crops
of this section begin to move freely after the opening of September. It is not
possible in a brief article to accurately describe the volume and scope of the
commerce of so important a business community as New Orleans, but the pre-
sentation of some of the leading statistics will furnish the average businessman
with an accurate idea of the general character of the city's trade.

THE BANK CLEARINGS.

The following total of clearings of the associated banks for the past year,
as compared with the previous four seasons, will show more clearly than any
other means the volume of the local trade:

Season 1902-190.S $859,472,855

Season 1001-1902 6o0,o73,o48

Season 1900-1901 ^!^m'J.-V'm!^I

Season 1899-1900 ^v?\l-3'v,o

Season 1S9S-1S99 11"*' «-v' o^l

Season 1897-1S98 44i,b<rf,y4tt

If the figures for the calendar year 1903 he taken the showing is even
better :

Clearings, calendar vear 1903 • • • • $927,710,850

Clearings, calendar year 1903 672,360,577

Increase, 1903 over 1903 $255,350,273

The following data, taken from a recently prepared summary of the con-
dition of the local banks, will furnish an accurate idea of the local banking
movement:

Loans and discounts, etc $45,076,230

Capital, surplus, etc 15,5fi6,794

Deposits.... 58,079.600

194

COMMERCE OF THE PORT.

According to the ofl3cial statistics, as compiled by the local customs offi-
cials, the foreign trade of New Orleans makes the following showing:

Statemeat oj the number and tonnage of vessels entered at the port of New
Orleans :

Vessels. Tons.

Total 1902-1903.... h^ll 2 386,044

Totnl I'lOl-lMO" l'^"^ 2.a7A501

TotU 1' 0-1 Wi: .... l.«^^ Z701.'.485

Total lS99-iboo: ^-- 1.564 2,807 354

Statement of the number and tonnage of vessels cleared from the port or ^ew
Orleans:

Vessels. Tons.

Total 1902-1903... W 2483.229

Total 1901-1902 1.4^« v^Tt'^q

Total VjOO-VMi. l-5'5 .r^i^'T^

Totai 1899-1900 1-5^0 2,d4o, <54

TOTAL IMPORTS.

Free.

1902-1903 $15,427,647

1901-1902 14,<111.988

1900-1901 9,771.447

Dutiable.

$13,486,900

10,054.301
11,322,458

Total.
$28,914,556

24;0(iU,34y
21,093,905

TOTAL DOMESTIC EXPORTS.

American Foreign

Vessels. Vessels. Total.

1902-1903 $2,735,903 $143,157,865 $145,893,768

1901-1902 3.04H.524 127,244,327 i;«).2:i0,851

1900-1901 2,953,378 148,700,390 151.059,078

Exports to Porto Rico, amounting to $2,875,861, are not included in
.above table.

TOTAL EXPORTS OF COTTON.

Oonntry— Bales.

England 807,263

France 351,398

Oermany 314,504

Italy 226,632

.Spain 132,951

Jiussia on the Baltic 85,346

Denmarlc 28,123

Austria 25,647

Belgium 25,266

Mexico 21,279

Netherlands 21,028

Portugal

Sweden

Ireland

Scotland

Norway

Greece

Japan

British East Indies

7,995

4,242

2,365

800

400

200

100

Total 1902-1903 1,115,627

-. - 1901-1902 1.904.150

1900-01 2,015,597

Pounds.

446,032,824

177,043,469

157,114,555

114,696,703

66,938,034

44,512,843

14,130,585

12,810,893

12,728,328

10,923,744

10,423,051

4,096,594

2,225,002

1,266,070

433,491

215,103

101.200

48; 846

38,104

1,075,779,439

992.'.K).o.8S5
1,021,707,018

Values.

$.39,869,953

15,737,279

13,930,763

20,357,542

6,419,474

3,958,096

1,251,350

1,163,819

1,139,975

1,027,330

904,524

348,928

191,687

113,113

37,118

23,279

10,879

4,107

3,360

$96,492,576

$81.6 »;{. 121
94,850,944

EXPORTS OF GRAIN AND FLOUR.

Wheat— Corn— Flour-

bushels, bushels. bbls.

1'902-1903 16,452,435 14,382,006 1,085,928

1901-1902 17,952,195 2,08-5,447 580,232

1900-1901 17,122,727 20,425,946 589,544

195

IMPORTS OF COFFEE.

Last year again witnessf d the breakinj^ of all records in Coffee Im-
ports. Accordiug to the otticial tigures the showing for the cottee year,
ending June 30, 1S>U3, is as follows:

Bags

1902-03. 1901-02.

Brazilians 894,447 806,034

Mexicans 38,076 52,611

Miscellaneous 8,530 8,251

Total bags 940,053 868,898

The total imports of Brazilinn coffee alone, for the calendar year 1903,
were 1,053,987 bags, as against 7C9,5 Jo for the calendar j^ear 1902.

STAPLE ARTICLES OF COMMERCE.

While New Orleans en.ioys a large general trade, her main commercial
activity centers in the marketing of the staple crops of this section, snchas
cotton, sugar and rice. The cotton receipts at this port for a long series of
years have been:

Receipts Av. price

Season • at N. O. per l)ale. Total value.

1870-71 1,584,136 $65.25 *1U1. 015,780

1872-73 1,4117,821 84.37 11S.7C.0.758

1874 75 1,157, 5"J7 55.40 75,706.842

1S75-7G 1,604,441 52.65 84.473,819

1S7G-77 1,385,774 53.00 72.268,248

1877-78 1,68!),483 40.!»5 8lil8"J.658

1878-7!) 1,426,081 43.00 61. 221,484

1879-80 1,712,999 55.00 94,313,845

1880-81 1,800.087 50.00 93.044,350

1881-82 1,462.814 55.00 74.958,070

1882-83 1,999.598 45.00 89,9Sl,910

1883-84 1.694,057 50.00 84,732,950

1884-85 1,689,760 50.(.K> 84,478,000

1885--86 1,946,037 45.00 87.571,665

1886-87 1,919,187 45.00 87.463,414

1887-88 1,912,228 46.25 88,640.145

1888-89 1,838,047 48.30 88.777,670

1889-90 2,148,301 51.00 109.563,351

1890-91 2.270,190 46.00 104,428,920

1891-92 2.713,425 35.00 94,967.875

1892-93 1,734,528 41.87 72,628,687

1893-94 2,060.311 37.50 77,261.662

1894-95 " ' 2,702,931 81.00 83,790,861

1895-96 ' ..' 1,911,281 40.00 76,451,240

1890-97 2.249,223 36.00 80,972,028

1897-98 2,815.599 29.00 81,650,921

1898-99 2,278,627 26.00 59,244.302

1890-00 1,913.846 39.00 74,639,994

1<H)0-01 '. " 2,498,553 44.00 109,936.332

1901 -02 2.326,906 43.00 99,626,958

1902-03 ' 2,380,431 50.00 119,024,050

SUGAR AND MOLASSES RECEIPTS.

-Sugar

Hhds

2-03 2,635

1901-02 «.=i^«

1900-01 5<;-^

1899 00 3.230

lSr"S-99 10,513

1897-98 *.'..'.'.!!'.!!!*. ^.•^•^-.'^

1890-97 'i^-i=9,

1895-96 • 5o,ot2

RICE RECEIPTS.

1877-78
1878-79
1879-80
1880-81

Molassea

Bbls.

1,772,228

3.56.184

1.831.668

359.871

l,4.-)0.088

228,362

734.392

232.. 'i7»

1.325,745

288,211

1,567.342

232,026

1,394,014

235,369

1,082,458

202,590

Rough,

Clean,

sacks.

barrels.

233.707

15,(>S2

279,611

21,152

182.'.>99

11.152

445,397

29,8U

IRSl-RO 435,692 351,390

1882-83 '.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'. 392.750 37.73«

1883-84 4o9,5oy f ^''.'?!^

1RK4.S^ 333.tJU3 32,333

iSle •;:::::::;:::::::::: ^^ ^^

1886-87 f.^f.'t]^ .4S.5b!>

1887-88 b2b,811 23,2b.i

1888-89 '.'..'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'. 'i'fi'^]?, ^^'ffj

1889-90 • • • • • llj/'fi I'tti

1890-91 -. -.^^T^it i'lln

18Q1 0"> I,0o2.331 5,b40

18^-93 .;:;::::::::::::::::: ^'-i^Pt^^ !?'^^

1893-94 ^dVSio V'r-n

1 Ri) 4 q-s 7S9,Sb9 1,1)00

1895-96 ::::::::::::::::: 1.51^0.139 7.482

1890-97 ir,=--^'^ s'niV

1S07 OS 52i,32b 8,0551

IsgKOq 707,000 12,493

jonqoo 973,S51 18,01.1

woo-oi :::;::::::::::::::::.: y32,oo4 277.637

jnni n'> 1,189.192 •577.O09

i9(2-0'3 ' .' .' .'.'.".".' 98.5,218 *660,110

♦Pockets. 1

TONNAGE OF THE RAILROADS.

The following table shows the volume of freight forwarded and received
over the various trunk lines of railroads centering here:

Southern Pacific

Texas and Pacific

Loutsville and Nashville

Illinois Central

Mississippi Valley

N. O. & N. E

Total 1902-03

Total 1901-02

Forwarded,
pounds.

1,923,630,000
464,082,544
559,398,700

1,351, IK), 000
359,662,000
580.681,315

5,238,570.559
4, 638, 129; 705

Received,
pounds.

1,710,778,000
2,029,634,058
735,463,200
3,11/, 950,000
1,163,190,000
1,037,006,486

9,793,021,744

8,835,478,232

Business.

NEW ORLEANS' FUTURE PROSPECTS.

No city in the country has made greater strides towards coninierci
j?reatuess, during the last few years, than New Orleans. Not being a new
town, nor a boom town, this progress has not startled the country as some-
thing new and unlooked for, but the statistics of business growth, the
enormous increase in bank clearings, the larger foreign commerce and the
great development of banking capital tell a tale of substantial expans
to all students of commercial and financial affairs.

The good pi-ices realized by the South for the past two cotton cropfj.
and the present unprecedented price for the deecy staple have made this
entire section prosperous and money plentiful. This condition of pi-os-
perity has naturally had a most beneticial eifect upon the trade of this
City. With the farmers out of debt and the country merchants enjoying a
period of business success, such as they iiever before have experienced, it
is but natural that every branch of trade and industry in this, the Southern
metropolis, should be greatly benefited.

The development of the oil fields of this and the neighboring State of
Texas has attracted tlie attention of investors and capitalists in this direc-
tion and created a demand for supplies of all soits which has been favor-
ably felt here. It is generally recognized that the oil fields of this section
are only in the infancy of their true development and their successful
working means much in the way of industrial growtlx in this City in year.s
to come.

Within the past year or two many fine business buildings have been
added to the facilities of this City. Hotel accommodations have been in-

197

ci-eased aud further additions of the same sort are contemplated to accom-
modate the larger travel in tliis direction as well as the constantly growiuf?
nnmber of winter tourists wiio seek this City in preference to the tamer at-
tractions of Florida. With a climate equally as mild, and wicii all the di-
.versi()ns of a metropolitan City, New Orleans ofters many attractions to
winter visiitors from the North which the Florida resorts do not attbrd.

Situated as New Orleans is, at the gateway of the Mississippi Valley,
this City has long enjoyed a co isiderable volume of foreign trade, but as
soon as the Panama Canal is built, and its building is now measurably in
sight, this traffic can be safely counted outo increase many fold. Tiiisport
is nearer to the Eastern entrance of tiie canal tlian any of the other large
ports of tlie councry and the products of the vast Mississippi Valley, which
are needed on the West coast of .South America and in the Orient, will na-
turally seek tide water at New Orleans for reship incut by sea via the Isth-
mian Canal. The passage of vast tieets of vessels through the canal will
also give rise to a great dem.ind for all sorts of supplies at the entrance to
the waterway, such as provision-;, sbi)) chauillery, naval stores and coal.
This Port will be the natural and best shipping pidutJLor such supplies, as
Avell as the i)oint of departure and arrival for passengers going to or re-
turning from South Americ.iu countries, via the Panama Canal. In a
word, the Canal means a great deal for this City.

In anticipation of this increased trad(^ and to accommodate the con-
stantly increasing size of ships, the Government is opening up a channel to
the sea through the great Soutli west l*ass of the Mississippi River, Avhich
will give a minimum depth of 85 feet at low water and possibly as much as
40 feet. This im;)rovement is now under way and will be completed long
before the Panama Canal can be opened to traffic. With that improvement
New Orleans will be the fiuest deep water port in the world.

MUNICIPAL IMPROVEMENTS.

Not only has New Orleans taken on a new life in the matter of commercial
affairs, but a spirit of improvement and enterprise has permeated the communi-
ty in the interest of modern public conveniences and improvements. Not only
have miles of streets been paved, but the people have also imposed upon them-
selves a special tax to secure adequate drainage aud public water and sewerago
Si'stenis. Fully $18,000,009 are boiiiij invested in tliese iniprovetnents, for which
all the plans have been prepared. The drainage work has been already com-
pleted to a large extent, aud although litigation somewhat delayed the sew-
erage work, it is now miikiny; good progress in every district of the city, and in
a few more years New Orleans will not only be ouo of the best drained, but ono
of the best bewered cities in the country.

The drainage and sewering of a city situated as is New Orleans,
in a flat, alluvial country, actually below the flood level of the Mississippi River,
presented serious problems not encountered in other cities. These problems have
been fully worked out, however, and a system prepared which will ove' ovae
all the topographical difficulties that faced the engineers.

During the past three years New Orleans has been one of the most healthy
cities in the country. There is no doubt that as soon as the drainage and sewer-
age systems are complete its healthfulness will be further improved, and the
advantages of

NEW ORLEANS AS A HEALTH RESORT.

will become generally recognized. The following article, which appeared in the
Picayune of October 27, under the above caption, is pertinent:

"There is every reason why New Orleans should be the winter resort of
the country between the north polar ocean and the Gulf of Mexico. Its mild
and genial climate; its ample aud thorough accommodations for visitors,
either in hotels or in private families; its cuisine, famous in every country
where the art of dining is cultivated aud appreciated; its varied and all-embrac-
ing means of amusement aud diversion, and its charming social circles, which are
open to all visitors who are worthy and are properly introducod, combine to
make New OrU-ans a most delightful place to visit, while its sanitary condition,
as shown by its small mort.ility returns, completes its claims as the winter
health resort for the people of North America.

The Picayune prints a testimouial on the subject from one of the most emi-
nent medical authorities on the American Hemisphere, Dr. Charles Alfred Le«

198

Reed, of Cincinnati, physician, surgeon, medical antlior, litterateur of world-
wide celebrity, and President of the recent Pan-American Medical Congress at
the City of Mexico. The verdict of this eminent authority is so important
that it is repeated here. He says:

"It has been my custom for a number of years to send certain of my pa-
tients to New Orleans to spend a part of the winter season, and I myself have
occasionally taken the same prescription. The Crescent City offers peculiar
attractions to the winter tourist, and particularly to such of them as are forced,
by ill health, to escape the rigors of a Northern Winter. This is a considerjition
of no little importance to persons who may require the .services of a physician
or surgeon. In the next place, that city offers peculiar physical comforts to the
sojourner; for the hotels are numerous and excellent. It is located far enough
away from the seaboard to be free from the unpleasant features of a maritime
climate. These features of the .seashore, notably, sudden vacillations of tem-
perature, with a maximum of humidity, are frequently inimical to the welfare
of physically sensitive people. Those whom I have sent to New Orleans never
complain of the ennui so frequently experienced at isolated resorts, but find
wholesome occupation for mind and body, in the varied attractions of one of
the most individual and charming cities of the Continent. I look upon this
feature as one of great importance, and insist upon it, whenever possible, in
sending patients from home.

"Interested capitalists have made Florida famous as a destination for win-
ter tourists who are rather more pleasure-seekers than invalids. For all such
New Orleans offers all that can be found in Florida for health, and a vast deal
more for pleasure, in which latter regard this city may well be classed as the
Paris of America."

Althon.gh New Orleans covers an immense area for a city of 300,000 in-
habitants, there is still ample room for expansion. The city limits include many
times the area actually built up, so that there is space for growth in all direc-
tions, without having to extend the already recognized circumscription. There
is sufBcioiit area here, conveniently situated with respect to the older portions of
the city, to accommodate several millions of inhabitants. While it would be
overamliitious to expect any such immediate gain as to warrant the hope that
the next census will show anything like a million people, nevertheless there is a
rapid growtli of the population in progress, and it need surprise no one to find
the population of New Orleans doubled by 1910.

CHAPTER XXIV.

Supplementary Street Guide — Car Routes.

The lolluwin.g street guide is based upon the excellent one compiled by Mr.
L. Boards, and published in his Directory. It is given herewith in order to assist
the visitor in locating any desired point of interest. Four streets have been
selected — St. Charles and Rampart. Canal and Esplanade. All streets running
up and down town are parallel, respectively, to St. Charles and
Kampart; all streets running across town are parallel, respectively
to Canal and Esplanade. Therefore the house numbering on any of
these four streets will correspond to the numbering on any other
street which may run in a corresponding direction. To find a number on any
street other than these four, it sufhces to find the nearest number of these streets,
which will give the inquirer the nearest street corner to the place he wishes to
locate. In order to find out which way a street rims, it suftices to consult any
one of the following four tables; if it appears among the names of the "inter-
secting streets" on St. Charles, it indicates that the thoroughfare in question lies
across town, and, therefore, parnllel with Canal, and so on. By locnting places
in this way, and a reference to the map which accompanies this Gudie, the vis-
itor ought to be able to make his way with considerable accuracy about the
city. Especially will the street guide herewith presented be found useful in
riding on tlio sti'cet cars, as, by reference to these tables, one can give the con-
ductor exactly the place at which it may be desired to have the car stop:

199

ST. CHARLES, ninth street west of

rlvoT, from Canal Street to Carroll-
ton Avenue. (Between Canal Street
and nowai'd Avenue tbe tlioroii'jrlifare
Is commonly called St. Cliarlos Street,
and from Howard Avenue to Carvoll-
ton Avenue it is known as St. Charles
Avenue. Init for convenience this Uis-
linction is here Ignored.)

Names of intersecting streets:

House Numliers.

Left. Right.

Canal ino 10]

Common 200 201

Gravler 300 301

Commercial Place 400

Perdklo 401

Foydras 500 501

North

Lafayette GOO 601

South

Glrort 700 701

Jnlia 800 801

St. Joseph 900 901

Howa rd Avenue 1000 1001

Calliope linO 1101

Clio 1200 1201

Erato 1800 1301

Thalia 1400 1401

Melpomene 1.500 1.501

Terps'chore IGOO IfiOl

Rnterne 1700 1701

Polynmia ....

Felicitv 1800 1801

St. ISIarv IStOO 1001

St. Andrew 2000 2001

Josephine 2100 2101

Jackson Avenue 2200 2201

Philip 2:!00 2301

First 2400 2101

Second 2500 250 1

Third 2000 2001

Fourth 2700 2701

Washington Avenue 2800 2801

Couery ....

Sixth " 2900 2901

Seventh 3000 3001

Eighth 3100 3101

Harmony 3200 3201

I'leasant ....

Toledano 3300 3.301

Louisiana Avenue 3400 3401

Deiach.-use 3501

Aline 3.500

Foucher 3600 3601

Antoniue ....

Amelia 3700 3701

Peniston 3S00 3S01

General Tavlor 3900 S901

Constantinople 4000 4001

Marengo 4100 4101

Milan 4200 4201

Berlin 4300 4.301

Napoleon Avenue 4400 4401

Jena 4500 45<ll

Cadiz 4000 4001

Valence 4700 4701

Bordeau 4800 4801

Upperline 4900 4901

Robert 5000 5001

Soniat 5100 5101

Dufossat 5200 5201

Valmont 5300 5301

Leontiue ••••

Peters Avenue 5400 5401

Octavia 5500 5501

Joseph 5000 5601

Arabella 5700 5701

Nashville Avenue 5800 5801

Rosa I'ark • . ■ .

Eleonove 5900 5901

State 6000 6001

Webster 0100 6101

Henry Clay Avenue 6200 6201

Calhoun G300 C301

Exposition Bonlevaid ....

Park Avenue ....

Walnut 7000 7001

.4udul)on IMace ....

Audubon 7100 7101

Broadway 7200 7201

Pine ...' 7;%00 7301

Lpwerline 7400 7401

Millatidon

Cherokee 7.500 7501

H ilary 7600 7601

.\dams 7700 7701

Burdette 7S00 7801

Fern 7900 7901

Huso

Carrollton Avenue 8000 8001

.RAMPART STREET (now called North
Rampart), thirteenth street west of
the Miss-issippi, from Canal to Co-
lumbus, thence east to the City limits.
Names of intersecting streets:

House Numbers.

Right. Left.

Canal 100 101

Customhouse 200 201

Bienville 300 301

Conti 400 401

St. Louis 500 501

Toulouse 600 601

St. Peter 700 701

Orleans ....

St. Ann 800 801

Dumaine 900 901

St. Philip 1000 1001

Ursuline 1100 1101

Hospital 1200 1201

Barracks 1300 1301

Esplanade Avenue 1400 1401

Kerlerec 1700

Columbus 1701

St. Anthony 1800 1801

Bourbon lO^K) 1901

Touro 2000 200O

Frenchmen 2100 2101

Elysian Fields 2200 2201

Marigny 2300 2301

Mandeville 2400 2401

Spain ....

St. Roch Avenue 2500 2501

Afusie ....

Lafayette Avenue 2600 2601

Port 2700 2701

St. Ferdinand 2800 2801

Press 2900 2901

Montegut 3000 3001

Clouet 3100 3101

Louisa 3200 8201

Piety 3300 3301

Desire 3400 3401

Elmira S500 3501

Congress SiiOC 3601

Independence .3700 3701

Pauline .3S00 3801

Alvar 3900 3901

Bartholomew 4000 4001

Mazant 4100 4101

France 42(X> 4201

Lesseps 4300 4301

Poland 4400 4401

Kentucky 4500 4501

Japonica .... ....

Manuel 4600 4601

Sister 4700 4701

Jourdon Avenue 4800 4801

Deslonde 4900 4901

Tennessee ....

Reynes 5(K10 5001

Forstai; 5100 5101

Lizard! .5200 5201

Egania 5300 5301

Audry 5100 5401

Flood 5500 5501

CaQin 5600 5601

200

La Manche 5700 5701

Charbouuet 5800

Alabo 5900 5001

Gordon 6000 GOOl

Tupelo 6100 6101

naneock 620O 6201

Tiicou 6300

Delery • • - •

ESPLANADE A^nFNUF, fourteenth

street north of and below Canal
Street, from tlie river to Bayou St.
John.
Names of intersecting streets:

House Numbers.

Left. Right.

North Peters 400 401

Decatur 500 501

Chartres 600 601

Royal 700 701

Bourbon 800 801

Dauphiue 900 901

Burgundy 1000 1001

Rampart 1100 1101

St. Claude 120O 1201

Liberty

Marais 1300 1.301

Villere 1400 1401

Robertson 1500 1501

Claiborne 1600 1601

Derbiguy 1700 1701

Roman 1800 1801

Prienr 1900 1901

Johuson 2000 2001

Galvez 2100 2101

Miro 2200 2201

Tonti 2300 2301

Rocheblave 2400 2401

Dorgenols 2500 2501

Broad 2600 2601

White 2700 2701

Dupre 2800 2801

Gayoso 2900 2901

Salcedo 3000 3001

Ducayet . • . •

Lopez 3100 3101

Rendon 3200 3201

Labatut 3300 3301

Howe 3400 3401

Bayou St. John

CANAL STREET, dividing line between
First and Second Districts; from the
river west to the city limits.
Names of intersecting streets:

House Numbers.

Left. Right.

Water

Delta 100 101

Wells

Front 200 201

Pnlton

Peters 300 301

Tchoupltoulas 40O 401

Magazine 500 501

Decatur 501

Dorslere 501

Chartres 601

Camp GOO ....

Exchange Place

St. Charles 700

Royal 701

Bourbon 801

Carondelet 800

Dauphine 901

Baronne 900

Dryades 1000

Burgundy 1001

Rampart 1100 1 101

Basin 1200 1201

Franklin 1300 1301

Liberty 1400 1101

Marais 1501

Howard 1500 ....

Villere ....

Robertson 1600 KJOl

Claiborne 1700 1701

Derbigny 1800 1801

Roman 1900 1901

Prieur 2000 2001

Johnson 2100 2101

't.iIvgz '. 2200 2201

M'iro 2.300 2301

Touti 2400 2401

Rocheblave 2.500 2.501

Dorgenois 2«00 2601

Bro.ul 2700 2701

White 2800 801

Dupre 2900 2901

Gayoso .3000 3001

Salcedo .3100 3101

Lopez 3200 3201

Kendon 3300 S.301

Ilagau Avenue 3400 3401

Clark 3.500 3501

Oonois .3600 .3601

Teleraa ehus 3700 3701

Cortez 3800 3801

Scott 3900 3901

I 'ierr-e 4f«"i0 4001

Carrollton Avenue 4100 4101

David

Solomon 4200 4201

Hennessv 4300 4301

Alexander 4400 4401

M urat 4500 4501

Olympia 4000 4601

St. Patrick 4700 4701

IJernadotte 4800 4801

Anthony 4900 4901

Helena 5000 5001

TABLE OF DISTANCES.

Miles.

Along the city front, from the
Barracks to the city limits

above CaiTollton 12.02

Head of Canal Street to the Bar-

raclxs 3.79

Head of Canal Street to Carroll-
ton 8.23

Head of Canal Street to Metairie

Road 3.73

Head of Canal Street to West
Eud, along the line of the rail-
road 6.63

Fix)ui Canal Street up St. Charles

to Lee Place .70

From Canal Street up St. Charles

to Jackson Avenue 1.51

From Canal Street up St. Charles

to Napoleon Avenue 2.95

From Canal Street up St. Charles

to Audubon Park ■4.27

From Canal Street up St. Charles

to Carrollton 4.07

From Canal aud Royal, via Ram-
part, to Esplanade 1.07

From Canal and Royal, via Ra ul-
na rt and Esplanade, to the Lou-
isiana Jocke y Club 2.93

Width of the Mississippi from
bank at Jackson Square to

bank at Algiers Point .36

Total area within tlie city ILmits,

square miles 196.25

Total area of city within the

levees, square miles 39.00

Total area of dr.iined portion of

citv, square miles 21.00

Total miles of streets opened 7<10.00

Total miles of streets paved 200.00

Strset railways, including those

to West En d and Spanish Fort. 173.20

Tlie Mississippi River discharge
at high water, in cubic feet,
per second 1,500,000

Average velocity of the river at
New Orleans, In miles, per

hour 4.00

201

HACKS AND CABS.

The following is a regular tariff of charges fixed by city ordinance (No.
1357, A. S.) for hacks and cabs, and the stranger should see that he is not im-
posed on by unscrupulous drivers, and would confer a benefit on the public by
reporting to the police all cases of overcharging:

• For carriages drawn by two horses, any distance not exceeding one mile, or
twelve squares, for one or two persons, ^1 each.

For every such carriage hired by the hour, $3 for the first hour, and $2 for
each succeeding hour or fraction thereof, for the use of the entire carriage.

For cabs or carriages drawn by oiie horse, any distance not exceeding one
mile, or twelve squares, for one or two persons, 75 cents each, and for each
succeeding mile or less. 50 cents.

For every such cab or carriage hired by the hour, $2 for the first hour, and
$1.50 for each succeeding hour or fraction thereof, for the entire cab or carriage.

These rates apply from sunrise to midnight. From midnight to sunrise
the rates shall be fixed by agreement, but in no case shall double the rates be
exceeded.

All public vehicles are compelled to carry numbers on their lamps."

There are, however, few parts of the city that are worth seeing which may
not be reached by street cars.

Car Routes.

BELT LINES.

St. Charles Belt. — The "Show'' line of the City. Starts on Canal, near
Levee, runs out Canal to Baronne, to Howard Avenue, to St. Charles Ave-
nue, to Carrollton Avenue, to the terminus at Jeannette and Dublin, on
throug-h Carrollton, passing- Athletic Park, to Tulane Avenue, to Canal, to
starting point. Transfers to Jackson Avenue and Napoleon Avenue lines
and Southport.

Esplanade Belt. — Direct to Fair Grounds, Race Track and City Park,
via Bayou St. John to Half-waj' House and Cemeteries, in Canal Street.
Starts at foot of Canal Street, runs by Canal to Rampart, to Esplanade
Avenue, to Bayou St. John and Metairie Avenue, to Canai Street, to the river,
Transfers to Villere, Dauphine and French Market lines.

Canal Belt. — Starts on Canal Street, near the Levee; runs out Canal,
direct to the Cemeteries and the Half-way House, through Metairie Avenue,
to Bayou St. John, to Esplanade Avenue (passing the race track and Fair
Grounds), to Rampart, to Canal, to starting point; transfers to Villere and

•phine lines.

Tulane Belt. — Reverse side of St. Charles Belt. Direct line to Charity-
Hospital and Athletic Park. Starts on Canal, near the Levee; runs by Canal
to South I{:iMui!irt. to Tulane Avenue, to Carrollton Avenue, to St. Charles
Avenue, to Howard Avenue, to Baronne, to Canal, to starting point. Trans-
fers to Jackson Avenue and Napoleon Avenue lines and Southpjrt.

Uptown Lines.

Jackson Avenue Line. — Starts on Canal, near Levee; runs by Canal to
Baronne, to Howard Avenue, to St. Charles Avenue, to Jackson Avenue, to
Gretna Ferry Landing. Transfers to St. Charles Avenue and Tulane Ave-
nue Belts.

Napoleon Avenue Line. — Starts at comer of St. Charles and Napoleon
Avenue, and run out the avenue to the river. Returns by same route. Trans-
fers to and from St. Charles and Tulane Belts, up or down town, at inter-
section of St. Charles Helt.

Prytania Line. — Direct to Picayune and other newspaper offices. City
Library, Memorial Hall, Howard Library, Margaret Monument, passing-
Lee Monument and thence through a mngnificent residence section to
Audubon Park. Starts on Canal, near Carondolet; runs by Camp to Pry-
tania, to Joseph, to Hurst, to Audubon Park. Returns to Canal Street by
same route.

Magazine Line.— Direct to Lafayette Square, Memorial Hall. City and
Howard Librat-y and Stuyvesant Docks. Starts on Canal and Basin Streets;
ruus by Canal to Camp, to Old Camp, to Magazine, to Louisiana Avenue, to

202

Laurel, to Audubon Park. Returns by Laurel, to Valmont, to Constance, to
X/Ouiaiana Avenue, to Canal, to starting point.

Coliseum Line. — Louisville and Nashville Depot. Direct to Audubon
Park, Carrollton and Southport. Srarts on Canal, at Louisville and Nashville
Depot, runs by Canal to CarondeJet, to Clio, to Coliseum, to Felicity, to
Chestnut, to Louisiana, Avenue, to Magazine, to Broadway, to Maple, to
Carrollton Avenue. Returns by Carrollton Avenue, to Maple, to Broadway,
to Magazine, to Calliope, to St. Charles, to Canal, to starting point.

Henry Clay Avenue. — Starts on Canal, near Levee; runs out Canal to
Carondelet, to St. Andrew, to Brainard, to Baronne, to Louisiana Avenue, to
Camp, to Henry Clay Avenue; transfers to Audubon Park and Carrollton.
Returns by Henry Clay Avenue, to Coliseum, to Louisiana Avenue, to Dryades,
to Julia, to St. Charles, to Canal, to starting point. Transfers to Coliseum
line for points beyond Henry Clay Avenue; also to Villere line on Canal
Street for down town points. Runs by Louisville and Nashville Depot.

Dryades and Ferry Line. — Direct to Ferry Landing at Canal Street;
passing Union Depot. Starts at Canal Street Ferry Landing; runs out
Canal Street to St. Charles, to Lee Circle, to Howard Avenue, to Dryades, to
St, Andrew, to Baronne, to Eighth. Returns by Rampart, to Philip, to Dry-
ades, to Felicity, to Rampart, to Canal, to ferry at foot of Canal Street.

Peters Avenue Line. — Passes Illinois Central, Yazoo and Mississippi Val-
ley, Southern Pacific and Louisville & Nashville Depots. Starts on Canal, near
Levee, runs out Canal to South Rampart, to Calliope, to Franklin, to Jack-
son Avenue, to Freret, to Louisiana Avenue, to Dryades, to Peters Avenue,
out Peters Avenue to Magazine, to Ai-abella Barn. Returns by Constance,
to Peters Avenue, to Dryades, to Dufossat, to Baronne, to Louisiana Avenue,
to Howard, to Jackson Avenue, to Franklin, to Calliope, to Dryades, to Canal,
to starting point. Transfers to Coliseum line for Audubon Park and points
beyond.

Annunciation Line. — Passes St. Charles Hotel, Lee Monument, Margaret
Statue and Cotton Press District. Starts on Canal, near the Levee; runs out
Canal to Carondelet, to Clio, to Coliseum, to Erato, to Annunciation, to Tole-
dano, to Tchoupitoulas. Returns by Toledano to Tchoupitoulas, to Race, to
Annunciation, to Erato, to Camp, to Calliope, to St. Charles, to Canal, to start-
ing point. Transfers to Tchoupitoulas line for Stuyvesant Dock, Audu-
bon Park and C^irroUton.

South Peters Line. — Starts on Canal at Camp; runs by Canal to Tchoupi-
toulas, to Annunciation, to Toledano, to Tchoupitoulas; transfers to Auduoon
Park cars. Returns by Toledano, to Chippewa, to Race, to Annunciation, to
Howard Avenue, to South Peters, to Canal, to starting point at Camp Street.

Tchoupitoulas Line. — Direct to Stuyvesant Doi ks, giving five viewof ship-
ping district and levees. Starts on Canal at Camp; runs by Canal to Tchoupi-
toulas, to Audubon Park. Returns by Tchoupitoulas to South Peters, to Canal,
to Camp. Transfers to Peters Avenue and Coliseum lines.

New Orleans and Jefferson Line. — This is a new line recently constructed,
and traverses the upper section of the city. It is operated as a crosstown line,
Starting at the river, on Napoleon Avenue, and out via Washington and Car-
rollton Avenue to Half-way House and Cemeteries, where close connections
are made for West End and City Park. Transfers to Carondelet line.

Southport Line. — Connects the St. Charles and Tulane Belt Lines with
Upper Carrollton and Southport, giving a fine view of the great levee system,
along the Mississippi above the city proper, where these immense embank-
ments tower above all the surrounding country. This route has been nicknamed
the "Klondyke Route."

Downtown Lines.

Levee and Barracks Line. — Direct to French Market, U. S. Mint and
N. O. and Northeastern Depots Starts on Canal Street, opposite the United
States Custom-house; runs by Canal to North Peters, to Lafayette Avenue, to
Chartres Street, to Poland, to Rampart; transfers to Danphine Line for United
States Barracks. Returns by Poland to Royal, to Lafayette Avenue, to North
Peters, to Canal, to starting point.

Dauphine Line. — Direct line to Ursuline Convent, United States I^arracks,
Slaughter House, and all extreme down town points; also to Queen and
Crescent, Pontchartrain and Shell Beach Railroad Depots. Starts at foot of

203

Canal Street; runs by Canal to Rampart, to Esplanade Avenue, to Dauphine, to
Flood, to North Peters, to the Slaughter House. Returns by North Peters to
Delery, to Dauphioe, to Poland, to Rampart, to Cannl to starting point,
ansff-rs at iiitt-rsection of l':s|)lanade Avenue for E-planade Belt.

Esplanade Avenue and French Market Line. — Direct to Jackson Square
Cathedr.ii aid French M.irk'-t. Starts on Canal Street. op-

posite the United States Custom-house; runs to North Peters, to French Mar-
ket, to Esplanade Avenue, to ^'illere Street; transfers here to Esplanade Ave-
nue car for Bayou St. John and City Park. Returns from Villere by same
route to starting point.

Claiborne Line.— Direct to old French Cemeteries. Starts on Canal,
near the Levee; runs by Canal to Claiborne Avenue, to Elysian Fields, to
St. Claude, to Lafayette Avenue. Returns by Urquhart to Elysian Fields, to
Claiborne, to Canal, to starting point.

Villere Line.— Direct to St. Rnch's Chapel and Cemetery. Starts on Canal
near Levee; runs by Canal to Villere, to Lafayette Avenue, to St. Claude.
Returns by same route. This route is the most convenient to St. Roch's Cem-
etery and Ch ipel . Transfers to Canal and Esplanade Belt lines, and Henry
Clay Avenue and Peters Avenue lines.

Broad Street Line. — Starts on Canal, near Camp; runs by Canal to Dau-
phine, to Broad, to Laharpe, to Gentilly Road; transfers for Fair Grounds.
Returns by Bayou Road, to Broad, to St. Peter, to Burgundy, to Canal, to
starting point. Transfers to Henry Clay Avenue and Peters Avenue lines on
Canal Street.

Bayou St. John Line. — Starts on Canal Street, near Camp; runs by Canal
to Dauphine, to Dumaine, to Bayou St. John, to Grand Route St. John, to
Sauvage, to Fair Grounds. Returns by Sauvage to Grand Route St. John, to
Bayou Road, to Broad, to Ursulines, to Burgimdy, to Canal, to starting point.
Transsfers to Henry Clay Avenue and Petrs Avenue lines on Canal Street.

Up and Downtown Lines.

Clio Line. — Direct to Union Depot an! French Op^ra House. Starts on
Elysian Fields, at Decatur; runs out Elysian Fields to Royal, to Canal, to
Lee Circle and Howard Avenue, to Rampart, to Clio, to Magnolia. Returns
by Erato to Carondelet, to Canal, to Bourbon (passing French Opera House
en route), to Esplanade Avenue, to Decatur, to Elysian Fields.

Carondelet Line. — Direct to Fr..'nch Oriera Hmise. Passes City
Hall and Cathedral. Starts on Louisa Street, near Chartres; runs out Louisa
to Royal, to Canal, to Lee Circle, to Howard Avenue, to Baronue, to Philip,
to Carondelet, to Napoleon Avenue. Returns by Carondelet to Canal,
to Bourbon (passing French Opera House), to Esplanade, to Decatur, to Elysian
Fields, to Chartres, to Louisa (passing Queen and Crescent Depot). Transfers
to Orleans and Jefferson 1 nes.

West End Railroad.

West End Line. — Starts on Canal, near Baronne; runs by Canal to the
Cemeteries and Half-way House, along the New Basin Canal to West End,
along Lake Pontchartrain. This line is equipped with modern electric express
trains. The route is one of the most beautiftil suburban trips that New Orleans
ofifera. The cars return over the same route.

The Last flule Car Line.

Algiers and Gretna Line. — Starts in Algiers, from First and Second Dis-
trict Ferry Landings; runs by Bonny to Pelican Avenue, to Powder, to Ope-
lousas Avenue, to Brooklyn Avenue, to Pcriander. to the river, along the river
to upper line of Gretna, along upper line to First Street, to Copernicus Avenue,
near Jefferson Avenue Ferry. Returns by same route.

Steam Lines.

Spanish Fort Line. — Starts on North Basin, at Canal Street; runs by
North Basin and Bienville Streets to St. Patrick Street, to Metairie Road and
the City Park, and by Orleans Avenue and the Lake shore to Spanish Fort.
Returns by the same route.

Pontchartrain Railroad Line. — Starts on Elysian Fields Avenue, near De«
catur; runs out Elysian Fields Avenue direct to Milneburg and Old Lake.

204

Ferries Crossing the Mississippi.

New Orleans has an excellent system of ferries, that ply between the city
j)roper and the suburb of Algiers, or rather the Fifth Municipal District. It
will be seen from the subjoined list that communication with Algiers may be
had from every section of New Orleans.

The First District Ferry runs from ferry house, at foot of Canal Street,
to Algiers.

The Third District Ferry runs from ferry house, at foot of Esplanade Ave-
nue, to Algiers.

The Fourth District Ferry runs from ferry house, at foot of Jackson Ave-
nue, to Gretna.

The Sixth District Ferry runs from ferry house, at foot of Louisiana Ave-
nue, to Harvey's Canal.

The Richard Street Ferry runs from Richard Street to Freetown. ^

Besides these ferries there are three licensed skiffs that run respectively
from Upperline, from Carrollton and from the Barracks to Algiers.

Steam Railroad Depots — Trunk Lines.

The Illinois Central, the Yazoo and Mississippi Valley and the Southern
Pacific Railroads have their passenger depot at the Union Depot, on South Ram-
part Street, corner of Howard Avenue. The Clio and Peters Avenue cars pass
■directly in front of the depot. The Dryades car passes within one square.

The Louisville and Nashville Depot is at the head of Canal Street. Most
of the cars in the city pass near by.

The Queen and Crescent or Northeastern Railroad Depot is located at the
head of Peters Street, on the river. The Levee and Barracks car and the
<^arondelet furnish the most convenient routes.

The Texas and Pacific Railroad Depot is on the river bank, at the head
of Terpsichore Street. The Tchoupitoulas car will bring the visitor within three
squares of the depot.

The Pontchartrain Depot is on Elysian Fields Street, not far from the
river, and is reached by the Rampart and Dauphine cars, the Clio and the
■Carondelet.

The Shell Beach Depot is on Elysian Fields Avenue, corner of St. Claude
Street. The New Orleans and Western Railroad uses the same depot, 'xhe
Spanish Fort Depot is at the corner of Canal and Basin Streets.

CHAPTER XX\Z.

Creole Cookery.

New Orleans is noted for its excellent cooking. The fame of the Creole
Cuisine has so often been the theme of song and story, and has received such
flattering tributes from some of the world's greatest minds, that a brief allu-
sion to the noble art seems a fitting conclusion to a Guide Book, whose object
has been to give the stranger true glimpses of life in New Orleans.

Creole cookery is not the least part of this life. It has come down as a
precious inheritance through long generations of model housewives, and realiz-
ing this, THE PICAYUNE proposes in this chapter to lead the tourist right into
the heart of the Creole kitchen, by giving selected extracts from the intro-
ductions to the recent editions of THE PICAYUNE'S Creole Cook Book, care-
fully compiled from recipes that have given to the Creole cuisine the unique sluH
interesting and helpful place it occupies in the world's cookery.

205

INTRODLCTIOX TO THE FIKST EDITION OF THE PICAYUNE'S
CREOLE COOK BOOK.

In presenting to tbe public this Creole Cook Book, THE PICAYUNE is ac-
tuated by the desire to fill a want that has been long felt, not only in New
Orleans, where the art of good cooking was long ago reduced to a positive

XANTE ZABELLE S TRIUiVlPH — GUMBO FILE.

science, but in many sections of the country where the fame of our Creole
cuisine has spread, and where with slight modifications incident to local sup-
plies of food articles, many of our most delightful recipes may be adapted by
the intelligent housekeeper with profit and pleasure. * * * *

The Creole negro cooks of nearly two hundred years ago, carefully in-
structed and directed by their white Creole mistresses, who received their
inheritance of gastronomic lore from France, where the art of good cooking
first had birth, faithfully transmitted their knowledge to their progeny, and
these, quick to appreciate and understand, and with a keen intelligence and
zeal born of the desire to please, improvised and improved upon the products
of the cuisine of Louisiana's mother country; then came the Spanish domina-
tion, with its influx of rich and stately dishes, brought over by the grand
dames of Spain of a century and a half ago; after that came the gradual amal-
gamation of the two races on Louisiana soil, and with this was evolved a new
school of cookery, partaking of the best elements of the French and Spanish
cusines, and' yet peculiarly distinct from either: a system of cookery that has

206

held its own through succeeding generations and which drew from even such
a learned authority as Thackeray, that noted tribute to New Orleans, "the
old French-Spanish city on the banks of the Mississippi, where, of all the
cities in the world, you can eat the most and suffer the least, where claret is
as good as at Bordeaux, and where a 'ragout' and a 'bouillabaisse' can be
had, the like of which was never eaten in Marseilles or Paris."

But the Civil War, with its vast upheavals of social conditions, wrought
great changes in the household economy of New Orleans, as it did throughout
the South; here, as elsewhere, she who had ruled as the mistress of yesterday
became her own cook of today; in nine cases out of ten the younger darkies
accepted their freedom with alacrity, but in many ancient families the older
Creole "negresses," as they were called, were slow to leave the haunts of the
old cuisine and the families of which they felt themselves an integral part.
Many lingered on, and the young girls who grew up after that period had op-
portunities that wil never again come to the Creole girls of New Orleans. ♦ *

But soon will the last of the olden negro cooks of ante-bellum days have
passed away and their places will not be supplied. The only remedy is for the
ladies of the present day to do as their grandmothers did, acquaint themselves
thoroughly with the art of cooking in all its important and minutest details,
and learn how to properly apply them. To assist them in this, to preserve to
future generations the many excellent and matchless recipes of oar New Oi^
leans cuisine, to gather these up from the lips of the old Creole negro cooks and
the grand old housekeepers who survive, ere they, too, pass away, and Creole
cookery, with all its delightful combinations and possibilities, will have become
a lost art, is, in a measure, the object of this book.

But far and above this, THE PICAYUNE, in compiling this book, has been
animated by the laudable desire to teach the great mass of the public how
to live cheaply and well. The moral influences of good cooking cannot be too
forcibly insisted upon. There is an old saying that "the way to a man's heart
is through his stomach." Every housewife knows the importance of setting
a well-cooked meal before her husband if she wishes him to preserve his
equanimity of temper. Every mother should know the importance of prepar-
ing good, nutritious dishes for her children in the most palatable and appetizing
manner, if she would give them that most precious of all gifts "a healthy mind
in a healthy body." People are the better, the happier and the longer lived for
the good, wholesome, well cooked daily meal. * * * *

It is proposed in this book to assist housekeepers generally to set a dainty
and appetizing table at a moderate outlay; to give recipes clearly and accurately
with simplicity and exactness, so that the problem of "how to live" may become
easier of solution and even the most ignorant and inexperienced cook may be
able to prepare a toothsome and nutritious meal with success. The house-
keeper is not told "to take some of this, a little of that," and "a pinch" of
some other ingredient; she is not left to the chance of guessing accidentally at
the proper proportions of component parts of any dish, but the relative pro-
portions of all ingredients are given with accuracy, the proper length of time
required in cooking is specified to a nicety, and the relative heat of the fire
required for cooking different dishes. In all the recipes the quantities are given
for dishes for a family of six. The intelligent housekeeper will thus be able
to form a happy medium and increase or reduce proportionately according to
the size of her family, the number of invited guests, etc.

THE, PICAYUNE CREOLE COOK BOOK is not designed for chefs of
eusines; it has been prepared with special appreciation of the wants of the
household and of that immense class of housekeepers who, thrown upon their own
resources and anxious to learn, are yet ignorant of the simplest details of good
cooking, and who. as a rule, have yet to learn that in a well regulated kitchen
nothing is ever wasted, but with careful preparation even the "rough ends"
of a beef steak may be made into a wholesome, tender and appetizing dish;
that "stale bread" may' be used in the most delicious "desserts" and "farcies,"
and "left-over" food from the day before need not be thrown in the trash-box,
but may be made into an endless variety of wholesome and nutritious dishes.

Hence, especial care has been taken to rescue from oblivion many fine
old-fashioned dishes, and bring them back into general use — dishes whose
places can never be equaled by elegant novelties or fancifully extravagant
recipes; special attention has been given to the simple, every-day home dishes

207

of the Creole household, while those that tempted the gourmet and epicureana
in the palmiest days of old Creole cookery have not been admitted. THE PIO-
AYUNE points with pride to the famous "soupes," "gumbos," "ragouts," "entre-
mets," "hors-d'oeuvres," "jambalayas" and "deserts," that in turn receire paiv
ticular attention. A special chapter has been devoted to the science of making

THE PICAYUNK's FROG — ^"a VOTRE SERVICE, MESDAMES ET

MESSIEURS."

good coffee "il la Creole," and one to the modes of cooking Louisiana rice. Oar
Calas," our "Pralines," and "Pacane Amandes," our "Marrons GlacSs" and
ices, our "Meringues," and our delicious ways of serving Louisiana oranges
peculiar to ourselves alone, are given in respective order. The history of many
dishes is also given, thus affording a glimpse into old Creole hospitality, cui-
toms and traditions. Commendable features are the series of menus for
holidays and daily suggestions for the table, as also th3 thoroughly classified
list of seasonable foods.

Throughout this work THE PICAYUNE has had but one desire at heart,
and that is to reach the wants of every household in our cosmopolitan commuu-
ity: to show the earnest housekeeper how the best food may be prepared at the
least cost, and how it is possible for every family from the palace to the cottage,
to keep a good table and at the same time an economical one.

"Whatever is worth doing at all is worth doing well." If this is true of other
things, how much more of cooking, upon which the life and health of the

208

family depend. The kitchen should not be looked upon as a place of drudgery;
a poet once sung of

"Making drudgery divine;
Who sweeps a room as to God's laws,
Makes that and the action fine."
The benefits that will ultimately accrue to every family, morally and
physically, from paying greater attention to the proper preparation of food
can not be ovc-r-estimatwl; the fact that good cooking operates to the greatest
extent in the preservation of the domestic peace and happiness of a family
cannot be gainsaid. * * *

INTRODUCTION TO THE SECOND EDITION.

The universal favor with which the First Edition of THE PICAYUNE'S
Creole Cook Book was received throughout the United States, the remarkably
short time in whicli the edition was exhausted, and the numerous demands for
copies that are continually coming in from all sections, have impelled the pub-
lishers to issue a Second Edition of this work.

In yi(>lding thus to the popular demand, THE PICAYUNE feels that it can
justly claim that this enlarged and amended edition of its Cook Book more
fully represents the progress and perfection of culinary art than any existing
work.

The Revised Edition has been prepared with great care. Each recipe
that has been added has been tried and tested and is given as the result of
personal practical experience and success in the Creole Kitchen. The topics
have been more conveniently and systematically classified and arranged, the
methods of preparation and manipulation, in many instances simplified, and
the edition, in its entirety, will therefore be found far more complete, compre-
hensive and valuable than its predecessor. The book has been bound in cloth
to render it more serviceable and durable.

With these explanations THE PICAYUNE sends forth the Second Edition
of the Creole Cook Book. Its name tells its story and bespeaks its value. It
is the only book of the kind.

By Registered Mail to any part of the United States $1.25

Retail price in Picayune Counting Room 1.00

~^>i//'

OIEiA-I^XIEJE, ^CSZ^VI.

"Lagniappe."

"Lagniappe" is a local institution of long standing like "picayime." Indeed
as far as traditional customs go, the two are intimately united, the coin itself
calling always for a bonus in kind with every purchase, while the readers of
the staunch old journal "The Picayune," receive a generous lagniappe of in-
fin. ! variety and interest with every number. And so following the long es-
tablished usage, here is a chapter of Lagniappe for the readers of the Picayune
Guide.

SEATING CAPACITY OF TARIOUS CHURCHES, THEATRES AND
PUBLIC BUILDINGS.

CHURCHES.

Seating
Capacity.

Carondelet St. Church (Meth.) 900

Christ Church Cathedral (Epis.)-. 800
Christ Church Chapel (J. L. Har-
ris Memorial) 300

Felicity St. (Meth.) 500

First Pi-fshyterian Church (Dr.

Palmer's) 1,500

Free Church of the AnnuDclatlou

(Episcopal) 800

Lafavette Presbyterian (Dr. Mark-
ham's) 700

Jesuits' Church (Cath.) 1,400

I'ryfaiiia Street (Pres.) 1.500

St. Alphonsus (Cath.) 1,200

St. Anna's (Epis.) "00

St. Anna's (Epis.) Chapel 300

St. George's (^Epis.) 900

St. John the liaptist (Cath.) 1,116

St. Joseph (Cath.) 1.900

St. Louis Cathedral (Cath.) 1.364

St. Mary's Assumption (Cath.) 1,000

209

St. Patrick (Cath.) 1.2W

St. Paul's (Kpis.) 8U()

St. Stephen's (Catb.) 1.200

Temple Sinai (Hebrew) 1.150

Touro Synagoi^ue (Hebrew) '.).")0

Trinity Church (Epis.) 1,200

THEATRES.

.\iiduboa (buriK-cl Feb. 11. I'HGi l.StX)

Crescent l.«00

Elysium i ,400

Grand Opera House (not including

stockholders' f.eats) 1.800

French Opera House 2,300

St. Charles Orpheunc 2,t;6-l

Tulane 1,700

PUBLIC HALLS.

Athenaeum (Youiif;- Men's Hebrew

Association) fiOO

Bovs' Hiyli School Alumni Hall

(Boys' Hi^'h School) (iOO

Tulane Hall (upper and lower

floors) 2,10(/

Temperance Union Plall (ICampart

and Spain) "lOd

United Confederate Veterans Hall,
Pair Grounds 15.0(

Union Francaise Hall (Unmpart

Street) l.'iOO

V/ashiustoii Aitillery Hall (includ-
ing upper and lower floors and
supper hall) C,oOO

Youiji; Men's Christian Association

(Y. M. C. A. Building) GOO

PRIVATE HALLS.

H. Sonhie Xewconib Memorial
Hair(upper floor College Build-
ing) 750

Gibson Hall (Tulane University) . . 350
Jesuit Alumni Hall 486

The above halls,
private institufoiis,
public meetings.

though belonging i»
are often loaned for

HEIGHTH OF TALLEST BUiLOrNGS IN
NEW ORLEANS.

.American .Sugar Refinery Company

Hennen Buildmg

HibL-rnia Bank and Trust Company,

above sidewalk.

Illinois Central R. R. Dock Elevator,
[old]

Illinois Cei)tral R. R. Dock Elevator.
[new]

Liverpool and London and filobe In-
surance Company

Lyons Building

Morris Building

.Shot Tower

.St. Charles Hotel .Anne.v

St. Patrick's Church Tower

plus the pinnacles.

Tulane Kducational Fund

Feet.
MS
150

lS(..

175

io>t
1 10
lor
iqCt
ib.t

170.
US

POPULATION OF NEW ORLEANS,
1722=1900.

Y'ef
1722
1727
1745
1790
1S10
1S20
18.30
18 to
1850
1800
1870
1.S80
ISiiO
1900

Population.
:{0t>

l,»i<H>

2,90i>

7.0(M»

... 17,24:i

, . . . 27.17(1

29,737

. . . . ]02,1(]S
. . . . 110,375.
168,675

... 191.41.S-

216.0'. ><>

, . . . '242.07i*-

... 287,104.

ILLUSTRATORS OF THE PICAYUNE GUIDE BOOK.

The ilustrations in this book are without exception the work of New Orleans
artists. Tlie two views, cntitlt'd resuectiv(:l3% "Type of 01«l
Courtyaid— KoA al Street,'' and "(Jld Couityard in Chartre,-i
Street," are reproductions of original ))aintiiigs from tlie brush of"
Mrs. Walter Saxon, a talented artist wiio kindly loaned the Picayune these
beautiful glimpses of old New Orleans. In like manner the cut representing:
"View of Old Court, Faubourg Marigny, Royal, Near Port Street," is a repro-
duction of a painting by the charming artist, Mrs. A. Moore, who lives within,
the old Court.

Glimpses of peculiar characters and street criers, group of Indians, and
other typical sketches are from the pencil of the Picayune's able artist, Mr.
Louis A. Winterhalder. The other illustrations, with the exception of those
marked Rivoire, and several unmarked, are the work of Mr. Louis E. Cormier,
an artistic member of the Picayune staff, who gave of the results of his ex-
perience with the camera towar(3 the beautifying of these pages.

LA?fDING OF THE UKSULINES.

The picture on Page 6, entitled "Landing of the Ursuliue Nuns," deserves
more than a passing notice. It is the most historic picture in Louisiana, being
the only glimpse taken of New Orleans in that early period. It is a reproduc-
tion of a sketch made by Madeleine Hauchard, a young Ursuline novice, at the
moment of the landing of the community on Louisiana soil. P^'rom the day of

210

the departure of the Sisterhood from France, Madeleine Hauchard. wiio was far
ahead of her day and generation, began to keep a diary of the order. As the
nuns landed in New Orleans, and were met by Bienville and the other Govern-
ment ofHcials, and clergy, Madeleine Hauchard paused and rapidly sketched the
group, for as she afterward told her superioress, "The landing was historical."'
This original sketch, faithfully preserved by the Ursulines, and still to be seen
in the old Convent, was subsequently enlarged by Madeleine Hauchard, and
hangs in the Convent parlors within the strict enclosure. On completing the
picture, she placed herself among the Sisterhood; she may be easily recognized
by the tall, white novice's cap that she wears, and the cat that she bears in her
arms. She brought this pet cat all the way from her old home. The picture has
never been seen outside of the Convent walls, and it is now given to the public
for the first time by The Picayune, through the courtesy of the Ursuline Nuns.
Madeleine Hauchard, it may be added, took the black veil of the Ursulines and
for nearly forty years, up to the time of her death, devoted herself to the work
of religion, education and charity in Louisiana. For upwards of thirty-eight
years she kept the daily record of all the events that happened in the colony,
and this diary, still faithfully preserved in the old Convent, is the only record
extant of those early days. Madeleine Hauchard was of a bright, vivacious,
generous nature; it is recorded in the order that she was the life and heart of
the community from the time that it set sail on the unknown seas in 1727 to her
death. Her cheery, sunny temperament is revealed in every page of her diary,
and one may imagine what a tower of strength such a sweet, sturdy, optimistic
character must have been to that brave baud of pioneer women-workers in
Louisiana.

THE PICAYUNE FROG.

Wheu the "Frog" first made its advent in New Orleans as the "Weather
Prophet" of the Picayune, and appeared daily at the head of our "Guide to
the Weather" column, arrayed in various garbs, indicating the kind of
weather one might expect for the next twenty-four hours, enthusiasm for
the "Picayune Frog," as our prophet was immediately dubbed, was very great.
Not only did the great popular heart go out to Froggie, but the most exclusive
circles caught the idea, and "Picayune Frog Teas," "Picayune Frog Pins,"
"Picayune Frog Calendars," menu cards, etc., with the pictures of Froggie in
his amusing garbs became the fashion of the hour. No entertainment, no reunion,
no fair, or chiMren's party was considered complete without the presence of the
Picayune Frog. The Frog soon became the "mascot" of every charitable and
philanthropic entertainment, the booths at which he was invited to take up his
headquarters generally carrying the fair. Cakes and drinks and fashionable
dishes were named in his honor, and so great was his popularity that a famous
old chef in the French Quarter, unable to control his enthusiasm for the little
frog, who had left the bayous and swamps of this old Creole State to take up
his abode in a great newspaper office, complimented him with an original dish
named in his honor, "Picayune Frogs a la Creole." Froggie, always ready to
adapt himself to circumstances, at once responded the next day by appearing as
a waiter serving the dish. Subsequently, on occasions of great festivals in New
Orleans, such as Thanksgiving, Christmas, New Years, etc., Froggie always ap-
peared in this conventional garb, ready, as he said, for duty. And so, when
the Picayune published its Creole Cook Book, Froggie, "who," as distinguished
critics aver, "is able to do all things and do them well," delighted the public by
offering to serve the dishes which the old Creole Cook so faithfully portrayed
in the cut presented for their delectation. Froggie appears in the chapter on
"Creole Cookery," of this Guide, "A Votre Service, Mesdames et Messieurs!"

SAYINGS OF JOHN >IcDO>OGH.

Reference has been made in this Guide to John McDonogh, who spent all
the years of his life in solitude, and who died leaving his vast estates for the
benefit of public education in New Orleans and Baltimore. At the close of
his remarkable will, written in McDonogh's own hand, and which covered orer

211

eighty pages of foolscap paper, a testament which seemed in reality a defense
of his own life — there occu»- the following passages, which gave the public the
first glimpse into the inner heart of the man:

"I have preferred as a revenue of the earth as a part of the solid globe.
One thing is certain, it will not take wings and fly away as silver and gold and
Government bonds and stocks often do. It is the only thing in this world that
approaches to anything like permanency."

"The love of singing given me by my mother in my youth, has been the de-
light and charm of my life throughout all its subsequent periods and trials.
Still has its love and charm pervaded my existence and gilded my path to com-
parative happiness below, and I firmly believe led me to what little virtues I
have practiced."

"And all I ask in retui'n is that the little children should sometimes como
and plant a few flowers above my grave."

Upon the old granite tomb, on the Algiers side of New Orleans, in the oM
plantation of McDonogliville, where the remains of the philanthropist reposed
previous to final interment in Baltimore, may be seen the following inscrip-
tions, written by himself and placed there, at his request, by his friend and
executor, Christian Roselius, the eminent lawyer.

INSCRIPTION ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF TOMB.

"Rules Written for My Guidance in Life — 1804."

"Remember always that labor is one of the conditions of our existence.

'Time is gold — throw not one minute away, but place each one to account.

'Do unto all men as you would be done by.

'Never put off till to-morrow what you can do to-day.

'Never bid another do what you can do yourself.

"Never covet what is not your own.

'Never think any matter so trivial as not to deserve notice.

'Never give out that which does not first come in.

"Never spend but to produce.

"Study in your course of life to do the greatest possible amount of good."

INSCRIPTION ON NORTH SIDE OF TOMB.

"Deprive yourself of nothing necessary to your comfort, but live in an hoa-
orable simplicity and frugality. Labor then to the last moment of your ex-
istence. Pursue strictly the above rules, and the Divine blessing and riches of
every kind will flow upon you, to your heart's content; but first of all, remem-
ber, that the chief and greatest study of your life should be to tend by all the
means in your power to the honor and glory of the Divine Creator.
New Orleans, March 2, 1804. "JOHN McDONOGH."

"The conclusion at which I have arrived is, that without temperance there
is no health — without virtue no order — without religion no happiness — and the
sum of our being is to live wisely, soberly and rigteously."

212

NEW ORLEANS.

The Picayune closes this Guide with the following beautiful tribute to New
Orleans from the pen of the gifted poetess, "Pearl Rivers," the late Mrs- E. .1.
Nicholson.

She floats within her sunlit seas,

A languorous lily dreaming,
Her green hair trailed about her knees,

And sweet beyond all seeming;
I can not say how fair she is —

I may not say it nearly;
She's like a radiant girl to me,

And I, — I love her dearly.

2i;

T. Fitzwilliam & Co,

LliVlITED.

One of the landmarks of Camp Street is the building occupied by the firm
of T. Fitzwilliam & Co., Ltd., Manufacturing Stationers, Lithographers and
Printers. The reader may turn to the illustration elsewhere in this book,
which shows The Picayune office and the adjoining buildings. On the left of
the picture he will see a portion of the<'stai>Hshine,iit of T. Fitzwilliam & Co.. Ltd.
The building may easily be identified by the name of the firm reproduced in
the engraving. This location, at No. 324 Camp Street, is exceedingly advantag-
eous, as it is in the very heart of the business quarter, and within convenient
access to all the large business houses and office buildings of the city. The
building is four stories high and extends through the block to Bank Alley, ou
which there is a rear entrance, at 321.

The building- contains an extensive plant for tlie manufacture of
blank, books for merchants and corporations; also for job printing, which in
completeness can hardly be equaled even beyond New Orleans. In addition
to which the firm possess an elaborate lithographic plant, where the most
modern methods are employed in the execution of the highest grades of the
work.

For twenty veius past. The Picayune has intrusted to the
firm of T. Fitzwilliam & Co., Ltd., the task of preparing the lithographic work
of the Carnival editions of that paper. The widespread popularity of these
brilliantly illustrated papers evinces the merit of the firm's work, and each
year finds them acquitting themselves of this congenial task with greater skill
and higher artistic perfection. The firm also carries an extensive stock of
general office stationery and supplies of all kinds. In fact, the lower floor of
their building contains a perfect assortment of articles used in offices, and an
inspection of the stock is interesting and instructive, as it reveals how much
ingenuity is devoted in these days to ministering to the comfort of clerks, book-
keepers and others who ai'e occupied in business offices. In this connection,
the firm manufactures and sells patent flat-opening blank books, which are very
popular and give entire satisfaction. It also prints all kinds of bankruptcy
and other legal blanks, the forms of which have been scanned by competent
authorities and found to be entirely in consonance with the soundest practices
of the local bar. A competent staff of binders, printers and engravers enables
the firm to turn out at short notice the most attractive examples of work.

As an adjunct to the large business carried on by this house in its various
branches, the firm has acquired the sole agency for the celebrated Edison
Oscillatory Memeograph.

Tlie house wns established forty-four years ago. and is
to-day conducted by the same management as directed its affairs in the early
period of its development. It stands very high in the estimation of the com-
munity, having shown itself eminently worthy of the confidence which its nu«
merous customers continue to repose in it.

214

f^omansHi Photo-Engraving Co., Ltd.

402 Camp Street,

New Orleans, La.

#
#

Art Photo-Engravers In All Its Branches.

Having a large assortment of photographs and half-
tone negatives, we can supply publishers with half-
tone engravings of New Orleans views — Southern
scenery — Sugar, Qi ice and Lumber views — negro
types--views of the principal shipping ports of Loui-
siana, Mississippi, Texas, Alabama and Eastern
Florida — views of some fifty other interior Southern
cities.

We have the enterprise to fill any order, no matter
how large or complicated.

#
#

STEAMBOAT LANDING — FOOT OF CANAL STREET.

LOADING COTTON ON THE LEVEE.

THE SPIRIT OF THP: CONFKDKKACV

INDEX.

ENGRAVED MAP OF NEW ORLEANS.

Introductory CJiapter

Absinthe House, the Old

Abita Springs

Academy of the Sacred Heart..

Across the Lake

Aleiers

Algiers Ferry House

All Saints' Day

Ambulance Corps, Residence

American Domination

American Quarter, Historical

Sketch of

Antique Shop

Annunciation Church (Cath.) . .
Annunciation, Free Church of . .

Annunciation Square

Antoine, Pere

Archbishop's Residence

Archbishopric, Old

Armory, Naval Brigade

Asylums-
Children's Home (Epis.)

Destitute Boys, Asylum for . .

Pink Home

French Benevolent Ass'n ....

German's Orphan Home

German Protestant

German Protestant Home for
the Aged

Home for the Aged, Little
Sisters of the Poor (Down
Town)

Home for the Aged, Little
Sisters of the Poor. (Up
Town)

House of the Good Shepherd..

Jewish Orphan's Home

Julius Weiss Home for the
Aged

Ija Malson Hospltaliere

Louisiana Retreat

Mt. Canne! Female Orphan..

New Orleans Female Orphan..

Poydras

Seventh Street Protestant Or-
phan's Home

Shakspeaie Almshouse

St. Anna's

St. Elizabeth's Industrial
Home

St. Mary's Orphan Boys' ....

St. Theresa's

St. Vincent's Infant

Thomv Lafon Asvlum for
Boys

Thorny Lafon Home for Aged
and Infirm

Athenee Louislanse

Atheneaum. The

Athletic Park

Auditorium, United Confederate

Veterans

Audubon Park

Audubon Place

Avery Island

Page.

179

65-98

ISO

12-70

156

91
7

16 38

208

134

112

105
')')

132
(i5

132

122

118

lis

4(5
135

49
116
131

122
10)
110

105

116

122

04
44

07
86

.59
100

104
179

Page.
Bank, First in Mississippi Val-
ley 17

Banks, Old Sites of 17

Barracks, Jackson (I'. S.) 5i

Barracks, Old Spanish 23

Barracks School. Old (McDon-

ogh 15) 46

Baronne Street 93

Basket Weavers 29

Basin, the New and Canal 86-160

Basin, the Old 41

Battle of New Orleans (1815) . . 51

Battle Field of Chalmette 51

Battle, Sept. 14, 1874 79

Batture Folks 140

Bayou Bridge 60

Bayou Lafourche 180

Bayou Road 64

Bayou Sara 179

Bayou St. John 60

Bayou Teche 1 79

Bay St. Louis 183

Beauregard, General, Birthplace

of 70

Beauregard, General. House

Where He Died 57

Beauregard. Judge, Residence

of 54

Beauregard, Mine.. Old Home

of 55

Beauregard Public School 86

Beauvoir 186

Bienville, Founder of New Or-
leans 5

Bienville's Country House 16

Bienville, First Landing Place

of 00

Bienville, Monument to 82

Bird Stores, Chartres St •. 38

Biloxi 187

Board of Ti-ade 122

Book Stores, Old French and

Spanish 19

Bottle Man, The 72

Boys' House of Refuge, Old Site of.. lix)

Bureau of State Engineers .... 126

Cabildo 30

Cafe des Ameliorations 42

Cafe des Emigres 29

Cafe des Exiles 23

Calaboose, Old Spanish 48

Cala Woman VI

Camp Grounds, Seashore 186

Camp Nicholls

Soldiers' Home .'59

Camp Street 105

Camp Street, Upper 118

Canal, New 86

Canal, Carondelet 41

Canal Street 76

Carnival Balls 170-17T

Carnival and Mardi Gras 167

Carnival, Queen of 173

Capdevielle, Home of Mayor . . 58

Car Routes i'»8-20i

Carrollton 9-104

Carondelet St 123

Carondelet Walk 41

Page.
Casket Girls (Petticoat Insur-
rection) 5

Cat Island 184

Cathedral Christ Church 97

Cathedral, St. Louis (French) . . 19

Cathedral Allev 19

Catherine, Lake 190

Catholic Institute of Amer-
ica 92-165

Cavalry, First Troop of loo

Cemeteries, The 142

Carrollton 156

Chalmette 54

Charity Hospital 152

Crpress Grove 1.52

Dispersed of Judah 150

Firemen's 152

Girod St 150

Greenwood 152

Hebrew Rest 150

Lafayette 150

Masonic 152

Motairie 15;J

Potter's Field 1.52

St. Roch's 147

St. Joseph 150

St. Louis, New 147

St. Louis, Old (No. 1) 144

St. Louis No. 2 145

St. Louis No. 3 146

St. Patrick's 1-52

St. Vincent de Paul 149-156

Washington 150

Chalmette Monument, The 53

Charity Hospital 89

Chartres St 27

Chatawa 179

Chef Menteur 181-190

Chinese Mission 92

Chinese Quarters 92

Christian Woman's Exchange . . Ill

Churches-
Annunciation (Cath.) .55

Canal Street Presbyterian ... 85

Carondelet St. Methodi-st 127

Chapel (J. L. Harris Me-
morial) 98

Chapel, Our Lady of Prompt

Succor 49

Chapel, Old 5j . tuary .39

Chapel, St. Roc) 148

Chapel, T. I.Semmes Memorial. ')4
Christ Church Cathedral

(Epis.) 97

Coliseum Place Baptist

Church 120

Felicitv St. Methodist 120-

First Baptist Church 122

First German (Presbyte-
rian) 97

First Presbyterian (Dr. Palm-
er's) Ill

Gates of Prayer (Jewish) .... 129
Gf>rraan Evangelical (Lutli-

eran) 120

Greek Church of the Holy

Trinitv 58

Holv Name of Jesus (Cath.) . . 104

Holv Trinity Church (Cath.) . . 48
Jesuits' Church (Immaculate

Conception) 93

Lafayette Presbyterian (Dr.

Markham's) 121

Louisiana Ave. Methodist ..-• 130

Northern Methodist Church . . ■)"
Notre Dame de Bon Secours

(Cath.) 105

Onr Lady of Good Counsel

(Cath.) 130

Parker Memorial Chapel 132

Ravne Memorial (Meth.) 98

Right Way Synagogue 127

Sa'Ted Hi'art of Jes-.is

(Cath.) 85

St. Andrew's [Epis] HH

St. Alphonsus (Cath.) 121

St. Anna's (Epis.) 57

St. Anne's (Cath.) 63

St. Anthony of Padua (Cath.). . 39

St. Augustine's (Cath.) 45

St. George's (Epis.) w

St. John the Baptist (Cath.).. 135

St. Joseph (Cath.) 91

St. Louis Cathedral (Cath.).. 19

St. Mary's (Cath.) 29

St. Mary Assumption (Cath.).. 121

St. Maurice's (Cath.) 50

St. Michael's (Cath.) 134

St. Patrick's 113

St. Paul's (Epis.) 118

St. Roch's Chapel (Cath.) 147

St. Rose de Lima's (Cath.) . . 64

St. Stephen's (C.ith.) 105

St. Theresa's (Cath.) 120

St. Vincent de Paul (Cath.) .. 49

Temple Sinai (Jewish) ■. 128

Touro Synagogue (Jewish) . . . 127

Trinity (Epis.) 104

Unitarian Church of the

Messiah 135

Valence Street Church (Bap.). 131

Churches, Seating Capacity of . 208

Citizen's Bank, Old 16

City Board of Health, Office

of 125

Citv Hall 110

City Hotel, Site of Old 106

Citv Library Ill

City Park 62

Claiborne Ave 91

Claiborne, Home of Governor . . 47

Clay Monument 82-109

Clay Square 135

Clearing House (Morris Bl'dg.).. 82
Cloistered Monastery of Dls-

calced Carmelites 46

Clubs-
Arena 164

Book 165

Athletic 165

Boston 83

Chess. Checkers and Whist . . 83

Church ] 65

Chescent Boat 60

Chescent City Jockey 59

Kducational 165

Elks. The 83

Era 164

French Opera 164

Geographies 164

Golf 165

Harmony ">7

Jockey 59

Jockey Club Race Course .... 59

La Varietes 64

Louisiana Boat t^O

New Louisiana Jockey .59

Polo, New Orleans 165

Pickwick 83

Rifle 165

Round Table 165

Social Clubs 164

Soutliern Atheltic 117

Southern Yacht 100-105

St. John Bo:it 105

St. John Rowing 160-165

Tea and Topics 165

Tennis 165

Victoria Criohet 165

West End Rowing loD-loS

Woman's 164

Womtn. Organizations of .... 164

Yachting and Boat 165

Young Men's Christian As-
sociation 132

Young Men's Gymnastic 39

Younu- Men's Gymnastic Row-
ing Club 105

Page.
Youngr Men's Hebrew Asso-
ciation Q7

Coliseum Place 120

Coliseum Place Baptist

ChuTcli 120

Colleges-
Jesuits' (Immaculate Concep-
tion) 04

Newcomb Memorial, H. So-
phie 129

New Orlenns M-idif^al (Col.).-. 83

Orleans, Old Site of 45

Polyclinic, New Orleans 89

Itichardson Memorial, Medi-
cal 83

Soule's Commercial 133

St. Aloysius Commercial .... 56

St. Isidore's (Holv Cross) 49

Tulane 103

Colonial Homes 4-66

Coinmanderia. Old Spanish 19

Commerce of New Orleans .... 193

Commercial Bank and Trust Co 125

Comus, Mistick Krowe o! 169

r'ongo Square 42

Continental Guards 166

Convents-
Benedictine Convent of the

Holy Family 48

Discalced Carmelite Mon-
astery 46

Good Shepherd. House of ... . 85

Holy Family, Convent of ... , 21

Ladles of the Sacred Heart . . 65-165

Marianites of Holy Cross ... 54

Mercy, Convent of 121

Missionary Sisters of Sacred

Heart 23

Poor Clares' Monastery 122

Mount Carmel 46

Perpetual Adoration, Convent

of 55

School Sisters of Notre Dame 104

Nt. .Joseph's 64

St. Mary's Dominican 104-135

Ursuline 49

Cotton Exchange 126

■Cotton Press Section 49

Court Buildings, Lower 30

Courthouse and Jail, the

New 89

Courtyards, Old Spanish 16-27

Courtyard, Jackson's Headquar-
ters 17

Courtyard, Faubourg Marigny. . 55

Covington 179

Creole Cook Book, The Pica-
yune's 204

Creole Cookery 204

Creole Homes 74

Creole, Meaning of 75

Crescent Billiard Hall 133

Crescent Theatre 94

Ouhan Expedition ^18.51) 16

Curio, Second-Hand Dealers . . . 16-19

Cu.«tom House, United States . . 80

Customs, Frencli Quarter 70

Daughters of Confederacy 165

Davis, Jefferson. House Where

He Died 132

Davis, Jefferson, Temporary

Burial Place of 155

Davis, Jefferson, Home at Beau-

voir 186

Death Notices 75

Depots of Railroads (See Steam

Railroad Depots) 203

Duelling Ground, Old 62

Discalced Carmelites, Monas-
tery of 46

Distances, Table of 200

Dryades Street 135

Page.

Ecole des Orphelins Indigens . . 47

Ecclesiastical Square 120

Educational 161

Elks' Place 83

Elysian Fields St 48

English Lookout 181-189

English Turn 5

Episcopal See, New Orleans,

Erection of 7

Esplanade Ave 55

Etienne de Bore 38

Exchange Alley 82

Eye, Ear, Nose and Throat Hos-
pital 39

Faubourg Marignv 12-46-55

Faubourg Ste. Marie 12-87

Ferries 304

Firemen's Cemetery 152

First French Colony 5

Fitzwilliam, T. & Co., 213

Flower Girls, the 74

Franklin, Benjamin, Statue of. . 109

Free Night School, S.Wright 12C

la-ench Cathedral 19

French Domination 7

French Marke!: 32

French Opera House 18

French Quarter, The 14

Frog, The Picayune's 206 209

Front, Lower Cbartres and Es-
planade Ave 55

Fruit Company, United 126

Fruit Exchange 80

Fruit Landing 138

Future of New Orleans 196

Galvez, Governor 66

Game Laws 192

Garden District 97

Gayarre Place 58

German Settlement 48

Godchaux Building 82

Government House, Old Site

of 37

Grain Elevators 133-136

Grand Army of the Repub-
lic 167

Grand Island 180

Grand Lodge of La 127

Grand Opera House 88

Grand Route St. John 64

Gretna 10

Guide Book, Illustrators of Pic-
ayune 208

Gulf Coast Resorts, Short

Sketches of ISO

Gulfport 184

Gulf View 183

Hacks and Cabs, Ordinance

Relating to 201

Half-Way House 86

Harmony Club 96

Harrison Line of Steamships,

Wharf of 139

Haunted House 24

Hennen Building 125

Hibernia Bank and Trust Com-
pany 124

High Schools. McDonngh 105-162

Historic Buildings, Old Site of 17

Historical Sketch of New Or-
leans (American Quarter) .... 86
Historical Sketch of New Or-
leans (French Quarter) 14

Horticultural Hall 102

Holy Trinity Church 48

House of Detention 92

Hospitals-
Charity 89

Eye, Ear, Nose and Throat . . 39

Home for Incurables 122

Hotel Dleu 92

Page.
Miliken, Richard, Memorial

Hospital for Cliilclren 91

Sauitarium, New Orleans .... 127

Touro Infirmary 117

Uoteis—

Denechaud 127

GrunewaUl 94

St. Charles New 123-213

St. Louis IS

St. James, Old Site of 122

Howard Memorial Library .... 114

Howard, Franl< T., School .... So
Hunting and Fishing Near New

Orleans ■ ISS

Hunt, Sallje Ward, Old Home

of 39

Iberville .5

Indians 33

Italian Lynching, Scene of 41

Jackson Ave iii4

Jackson. General Andrew 51

Jackson's Headquarters During

Battle 1815 53

Jackson's City Headquarters

Old Site of 17

Jackson Monument 31

Jackson Square 31

Jefferson City 9

Jesuits in Colony, Arrival of . . 7

Jesuits' Church and College . . 93

Jewish Orphan's Home 98

Julius Weiss Home for Aged . . 118

Jockey Club 59

Jump, The 191

Kenilworth Plantation 08

Kindergartens, Free, 1<J5

Lafayette, Marquis de 27

Lafayette Square 109

Ladies' Confederate Memorial

Association 165

Lafltte, Pirates of Barataria . . _23-oS

Lafreniere 7-104

Lafon. Thorny 66

Lafourche, Bayou ISO

Lagniappe T1-20S

Lakanal, Ex-Director College

d'Orleans 45

Lake Lery 70

L.a Maison Hospltaliere 46

Lalaurie, Mme.. Story of 24

Landing of Ursulines 7-209

Last Island ISO

Laveau, Marie, the Voudoo

Queen 44

Lee Circle 95

Lee Monument 95

Lee, Kobert E., School 163

Levee, The 35-136

Levee Sights and Scenes 136

Leland University 104

Levert, Octavia Walton, Old

Home of ' 39

Liberty Place 78

Libraries —

City, Fisk, Free, and Public. Ill

Howard Memorial 114

Jesuits' 04

Newcomb Memorial 130

Tilton Memorial 104

State 92

Literary, Educational Clubs . . 165

Little Sisters of the Poor 57

'Liverpool and London and Globe

Insnrance Company 124

Long Beach 185

Louis Philippe, Visit of 7

Louisiana Field .Artillery 166

Page.

Louisiana Retreat 135

Lugger Landing, Old Basin .... 42
Lugger Landing, Picayune

Tier .• 3()-13;»

Macaroni Makers 29

.Macarty Square 54

Mafla Society 44

Magazine St 121

Magiunis Cotton Mill 1'22

Magnolia li.9

Mandeville 178

Manual Training Scliool, Isidore

Newman 135

Manufacturers 133

Map of New Orleans, 1798 8

Margaret Monument 115

Margaret Place 115

Margaret. Story of 115

Margaret Walk Ui

Marigny Canal 48

Marignv, Faubourg 12-27

Marlgnv. Mandeville de 27-43

Markham, Church of Dr 121

Markets—

Claiborne 91

French 32

Magazine I'iO

Ninth Street 122

Poydras ^4

Treme ^-^

Masonic Temple 127

McCloslcev Hall 'H

Mechanics Institute, Site of

and Battle at 92

Meohansville 10

Medical School (Col.) 83

Memorial Hall, Confederate ... 113
Merchants' Exchange, Old Site

of 16

Military Organizations 165

Miliken Memorial Hospital .... 91

Milkman 71

Milneburg 161

Mint. United States 26

Mississippi City 185

Mme. John's Legacy 23

Mobile 188

Momus, Knights of 172

Moresque Building 109

Morgan Ferry Landing 139

Morphv. Paul, Home of 17

Morris'Building .S2

Mortgage Office 17

Mortuary Chapel of Old New

Orleans 39

Municipal Boundavies 12

Municipal Improvements 197

McDonogh, John, Grave of .... 164 .
McDonogh, John, Monument

to ... 109

McDonogh. John. Romance ttf . . ioo
McDonogh's Sayings and Rules

of Life 210

McDonogh's Schools 15-K.2

McDonoghville 10

Napoleon Ave 105

Napoleon House S2

Naval Brigade l(>(i

Naval Station, New Orleans, . . 140

Nereus, Krewe of 172

New Basin and Canal 86

New Iberia 179

New Orleans, Bank Clearings

of 193

New Orleans. Commerce of 193

New Orleans. Education in .... 161
New Orleans, Future Prospects

of 1%

New Orleans as a Health Re-
sort 197

New Orleans, How to See 9

Page.
New Orleans, Hunting and

Fishing Near 189

New Orleans, Literary, Phil-
anthropic 1G5

New Orleans to Mobile, From.. 180
"New Orleans," Poem by Pearl

Rivers 212

New Orleans, Population of 209

New Orleans, Port of lati

New Orleans and Porto Rico
Rico Steamship Co., Wharf

of 139

New Orleans Sanitarium 127

New Orleans, Short History

of 5

New Orleans Sportsmen 1U3

New Orleans. Social Life of . . . 1C4

New Orleans, Table of Distances. . . 2(0
New Orleans, Training School

for Nurses 127

New Orleans University 98

Newsboys' Home 95

Newspaper Row loo

North Shore 192

Oakland Driving Park 86

Ocean Springs 187

Odd Fellows' Hall lUb

Old Basin 41

Oldest Buildings in Louisiana.. 28

Old French Cemeteries 40-148

Old Lake 161

Old Spanish Tiled Building ... 2U
Organ Grinders and Quar-
ters of 24

Orleans College, Story and

and Site of 45

Orleans Place 21

Orleans Theatre, Old, 21

Out of Town Journeys ITS

Palmer Ave 100

Palmer's Church, Dr Ill

Parish Prison, Old 44

Parks-
Athletic 86

Audubon 102

City 62

Oakland Driving 86

Rosa 104

Sportsmen 86

Southern 60

Pascagoula 188

Pass Christian 184

People's Homestead Associa-
tion 126

Pere Antoine -. 21

Pere Dagobert 30

Perpetual Adoration Convent . . 55

Peters Avenue 135

Petrovitz Alexandra 66

Photo Engraving Company 214

Picayune 71

Picayune, The 107

Picayune Creole Cook Book 204

Picayune Frog, The 2o7-210

Picayune Guide Book, Illustra-
tors of 209

Picayune's Map of Gulf Coast.. 182
Picayune The, Special Carnival

Editions of 178

Picayune Tier (Lugger Land-

in.g) 36

Pickwick Club S3

Pirates of Barataria 23

Place d'Armes (Jackson

Square) 31

Plans of Battle of New Or-
leans 52

Plaquemine Parish 190

Polar Star Lodge 55

Polyclinic. New Orleans 89

Pontalba Buildings 32

Pontchartraln, Lake 192

Pontchartrain Railroad 48

Poor Clares, Monastery of .... 122
Population of New Orleans,

Statistics of 2O8

Postotfice, New Site of m

Postoffice, Old Site of 16

Postoffice (United States Cus-
tom House; 82

Port Chalmette 54

Pdydras, Julian 131

Poydras Market 94

Prairie Tremblante 181

Praline Women 74

I'roetorville 09

Produce Exchange 108

Proteus, Knights of 172

Prytania Street l( 16-114

Public Buildings, Seating Ca-
pacity of 208

Public School System, The 162

Pythian Hall 127

Pythian Hall, Upper /.. 122'

Quadroon Ballroom 21

Quadroon Women 22

Quartie 71

Rabais Man, The 72

Races The, Spring and Winter

Meetings 59

Railroad, Second Oldest in the

United States 48

Railway, New Orleans Terminal 41-68

Railway, New Orleans and Western,

Terminal of 54

Railroad Depots-
Steam Trunk Lines 204

East Louisiana 204

Illinois Central 204

Louisville and Nashville 80-204

New Orleans and Western.... 204

I'ontchartraia 48-204

Queen and Crescent or North-
eastern 204

Shell Beach 09-204

Southern Pacific 204

Spanish Fort 83-204

Texas and Pacific 204

Union 204

West End 204

Yazoo and Mississippi Valley . 204

Railroad in U. S., First Horse

Line 211

Rampart St. and Vicinity .... 39

Rampart Street, The New .... 47

Rayue Memorial Church 98

Reconstruction Bra 9

Residences, Canal Street 83

Residences, Esplanade Ave .... 56

Residences, Prytania St 116

Residences. St. Charles Ave . . 97-98-102

Resorts, Summer, Gulf Coast . . 180

Rex, King of the Carnival .... 170
Richardson Memorial Medical

College ' 83

Rigolets 181-190

River Front 36-136

Romanski Photo-Engraving Co., Ltd., 214
Romantic History of New Or-
leans 7

Royal Street 15

Salt Mine, Avery Island 179

San Domingo Insurrection and

Refugees 7

Sauvolle, First Governor of

Louisiana 5

Saxenholm Plantation 66

School, F. T. Howard No. 1 85

School, Frank T. Howard No. 2 132

School, McDonogh High No. 2 . 105

Schools, Public 162

School, S. Pizatti 92

Scrariton I88

Page.

Seaman's Bethel 105

Seating Capacity, Chui'clies,

Theatres, Public Buildings . . 208

Sea Shore Camp Grounds 186

Sewerage, Water and Drainage . 197

Shakspeare Almshouse 99

Shell Beach Railroad 69

Ship Island 185

Sliort History of New Orleans. . 5

Shot Tow er 133

Siour Geor.:ie's House 39

Signal Corps Ido

Sisters of Notre Dame School

Unfant Jesus) 103

Slaughter House 50

Slave Quarters, Old 26

State Arsenal 30

State Library 92

Social Life of New Orleans .... 164

Soul hern Athletic Club 117

Southern Pacific R R. Office... 122

Southern Pacific. Wharves of 138

Southern Park 60

.MiLithern University 131

Stores, Canal Street 82

Spanish Domination ..: 7

Spanish Fort 160

Spauish Fort Railroad 83

Spanish Governors, Louisiana. . 7

Sportsmen Park 86

Stanley Residence 134

State .Arsenal 30

State Board of Health 12.5

State Medical Society 13G

Statistics. Commercial 193

Statistics, Population of New

Orleans. 1722-1900 208

South Point 192

Steamboat Landing 136

Steamers, Harrison Line 13'»

Stock Exchange l2o

Straight University 85

Ste Croix, Church and Vil-
lage of 70

Street Car Routes 201

Street Guide, Supplementary . . 198

Street Naiads . 104

Street Names 10

Street Numbers 9

Street Scenes, Peculiar 70

Street Vendors '<0

Suburban Resorts 159

Sugar Exchange 38-138

Sugar, When aud Where First

Made in Louisiana 67

Sugar Industry, Cradle of 67

Sugar Planters, the First 38-67

Sugar Refineries 38

Sugar Section 38-138

Sugar Sheds 38

Supplementary Street Guide —

Car Routes 108

Stuyvesant Docks 133

Synagogue, First in New Or-
leans 40

Station, Illinois Central Passen-
ger (Union Depot) 136

St. Aloysius Commercial Insti-
tute .56

St. Anna's Asylum 116

St. Anna's Church (Episcopal).. 57

St. Anne's Church (Catholic)... 65

United Fruit Co 12()

St. Anthony of Padua's Church. 39

St. Anthony's Place 21

St. Augustin's Cliurch 45

St. Bernard, Old French Parish

of 66-190

St. Charles Avenue 96

St. Charles Hotel 123-213

St. Charles Street 123

St. Charles Orpheum 127

St. Elizabeth's Industrial Home 103

St. George's Church (Episcopal)

St. John Bayou

St. John the Baptist Church
(Catholic)

St. Joseph's Church

St. Joseph's Convent

St. Louis Cathedral

St. Louis Cathedral Presbytery.

St. Louis Cemeteries

St. Louis Hotel

St. Mary's Orphan Boys' Asy-
lum

St. Martinsville, Old Town of..
St. Maurice Church (Catholic)..
St. Michael's Church (Catholic).

St. Patrick's Church

St. Paul's Church

St. Peter Street

St. Roch's Cemetery and Shrine

St. Rose de Lima Church

St. Simeon's School

St. Stephen's Church

St. Tammany Parish

St. Theresa's Church

St. Vincent de Paul's Church..
St. ^'incent's Ha\ en for Seamen

Tallest Buildings in New Orleans,

Heigbth of

Tangipahoa Parish

rchoupitoulas Street

Teche Bayou

Terre-aux-Boeufs

Trembling Prairie, The

Theatres-
Academy of Music. Ruins of

Crescent

Elysium Tfieaire

First in New Orleans

French Opera House

Graud Opera House

St. Charles Orpheum

Tulane

Temple Sinai

"Tin-a-Feexy-Man"

Touro Buildings

Touro Infirmary

Touro, Judah P

Touro Synagogue

Training Schools for Nurses-
Charity Hospital (A. C. Hutch-
inson Memorial)

New Orleans Sanitarium

Touro Infirmary

Wbeatly, Phyllis (colored) . . .

Tulane Avenue

Tulane-Newxomb Building

Tulaue University

Turner's Ilall (old)

Turnverein Hall

Union Franoaise, Hall of

Unitarian Church

United Confederate Veterans..

United Confederate Veterans'

Reunion Hall

Universities—

Leland (colored)

New Orleans (colored)

Sti\iight (colored)

Southern (colored)

Tulane

IJnzaga. Don Luis

Upper Magazine Street

Page.
9S
00

135

01
64
10
21
144
18

179

134

113

118

147

134

105

191

120

105

209
191
133
179
66
181

127
94
48
65
17
83

127
94

128
72
83

117
83

127

91
127
118

89
106
103
136
136

44
135
166

104

131

104

121

FEB 1 3 iau4

Page.

Ursuline Convent 45)

Ursuline Nuus 28

Ursuline Xims, Ancient Bury-
ing Ground of 29

"Vieux Cane," The 11

Vaudreuil, Marquis de 7

Voudoos 43

Voudoo Rites 43

Voudoo Queen, Old Home of. . 44

Villaee of Ste. Croix 70

Vlllere Plantation 53

Washington Artillery Hall 132

Washington Square 47

Page.

Waveland 1S8

West End 1.5'.>

White League, Sketch of Work. 71)
Women, First Meeting of New

Orleans 43

Women, Organizations of 164

Workers in Wax and Flowers... 23

Young Men's Christian Asso-
ciation 1.12

Young Men's Gymnastic Club... 3y
Young Men's Hebrew Associa-
tion 211

FTR 1 ^]y(J4

Foldout

Ursv
Ursi
Ursi

"Vi«
Vau
Vou
Vou
Vor

Vill;

Vll

To'^'^

The Daily Picayune

Is a real newspaper, its telegraphic
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The Sunday Picayune

Is a household treasure of news, info i
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