Travels through the two Louisianas and among the savage nations of the Missouri [microform] : also in the United States, along the Ohio and the adjacent provinces in 1801, 1802, & 1803 : with a sketch of the manners, customs, character, and the civil and religious ceremonies of the people of those countries

Perrin du Lac, Francois Marie, 1766-1824

This book was produced in EPUB format by the Internet Archive.

The book pages were scanned and converted to EPUB format automatically. This process relies on optical character recognition, and is somewhat susceptible to errors. The book may not offer the correct reading sequence, and there may be weird characters, non-words, and incorrect guesses at structure. Some page numbers and headers or footers may remain from the scanned page. The process which identifies images might have found stray marks on the page which are not actually images from the book. The hidden page numbering which may be available to your ereader corresponds to the numbered pages in the print edition, but is not an exact match; page numbers will increment at the same rate as the corresponding print edition, but we may have started numbering before the print book's visible page numbers. The Internet Archive is working to improve the scanning process and resulting books, but in the meantime, we hope that this book will be useful to you.

The Internet Archive was founded in 1996 to build an Internet library and to promote universal access to all knowledge. The Archive's purposes include offering permanent access for researchers, historians, scholars, people with disabilities, and the general public to historical collections that exist in digital format. The Internet Archive includes texts, audio, moving images, and software as well as archived web pages, and provides specialized services for information access for the blind and other persons with disabilities.

Created with abbyy2epub (v.1.7.6)

am

IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3)

4^.

1.0

I.I

u

|25 |22

2.0

i

1.25

Iju

1.6

< ^

6"

►

;^*jr ^v

C?7

''///

I%otographic

Sciences

Corporation

i.

4!^

.^^^

^

<«^

\.

^. '<^

c>

'o^

33 WiST MAIN STHIT

WIBSTIR NY. U!M

(7I«) 173-4)03

v^^^

CIHM/ICMH

Microfiche

Series.

<^

CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches.

Can«dian Institute for Historical Microraproductions / Institut canadien de microreproductions historiques

O

iV

Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notas tachniquaa at bibliographiqtiaa

The Instituta has attampted to obtain tha bast original copy available for filming. Features of this copy which may be bibliographically unique, which may altar any of the images in tha reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checited below.

□ Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleur

L'Institut a microfilm* le meilleur exempiaire qu'il lui a itt possible de se procurer. Les dit3<ls de eet exempiaire qui sont peut-^tre uniques du point do vua bibli^^graphique, qui pauvent modifier une image reproduite. ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la mtthoda normale de filmage sont indiquAs ci-dessous.

D

D D

D D

D

r~n Coloured pages/

I—I Covers damaged/

Couverture endommagdke

Covad's restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaurie at/ou pellicula

Pages de couleur

Pages damaged/ Pages endommagtes

□ Cover title missing/ Le

titre de couverture manque

Coloured mapa/

Cartes giographiques en couieur

Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or black)/ Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire)

I I Coloured plates and/or illuatrations/

Planches et/ou illuatrations en couleur

Bound with other material/ Reli* avec d'autrea documents

Tight binding may cauae shadows or distortion along interior margin/

La re liure serrAe peut causer de I'ombre ou de la distorsion le long de la marge intirieure

Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certainea pagae blanches ajouties lore dune restauration apparaissent dana la texte, mais, lorsque cela Atait possible, ces pages n'ont

□ Pages restored and/or I'aminated/ Pages restauries et/ou pelliculAes

Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ Pages dtcoiorAes, tacheties ou piqu^es

Pages detached/ Pages ditachies

Showthroughy Transparence

Quality of priri

Qualit^ inigale de ('impression

includes supplementary materia Comprend du material suppiimantaire

Only edition available/ Seule Edition disponible

|~n Pages detached/

nn Showthrough/

rri Quality of print varies/

r~~] includes supplementary material/

|~~| Only edition available/

D

Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, iisaues, etc., hava been refilmed to ensure the best possible image/ Lea pages totalement ou partiellamant obacurcias par un feuillet d'errata. une peiure, etc.. ont M film^es i nouveau da facon i obtenir la meiileure image possible.

pea «ti filnrsies.

~~1 Additional comments:/

_J Commentaire* supplAmantairesr

This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/

Ce document est fiSmi au taux d'< reduction indiqu* ci-d^ssoua.

10X 14X 18X 22X 26X

30X

i i

[/}

12X

1SX

20X

24X

2SX

32X

Thu copy filmed hers has bs^n rsproduced thanks to the yenerosity of:

National Library of Canada

L'sxemplaire filmA fut reproduit grAue d la gAnArositi de:

BibliothAquo nationale du Canada

The images appearing here are the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in Ice^ping with the filming contract specifications.

Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front ccver and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impression, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression.

Les images suivantes ont At6 reproduites avec ie plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition at de la nettetd de I'exemplaire fiimA, et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de filmage.

Les exemplaires originaux dont la couvorture en papier est imprimte sont filmte en commenpaiit par Ie premier plat et en terminant soit par la derniltre page qui comporte une empreir.te d'impression ou d'illustration, soit par Ie second plat, selun Ie cas. Tous les autres exemplaiires originaux sont filmte en co^nmen^ant par la premiere page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la derniAre page qui comporte une telle empreinte.

The last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol "^- (meaning "CONTINUED"), or the symbol V (meaning "END"), whichever applies.

Maps, plates, charts, etc., may Oe filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure ere filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right end top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method:

Un des symboles suivants apparattra sur la dernlAre image de cheque microfiche, selon Ie ces: Ie symbols —^ signifie "A SUIVRE", Ie symbols y signifie "FIN".

Les car'tes, planches, tableaux, etc.. peuvent dtre filmto i des taux de reduction diffArents. Lorsque Ie document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un aeul clichA, il est filmA i partir de Tangle supArieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant Ie nombre d'imeges nicesssire. Les diagrammes tuivants iliustrent la m^thode.

1

2

3

1

6

TRAVELS

THROUQH THE

TWO LOUISIANAS,

AND

AMONG THE SAVAGE NATIONS

OF THE

MISSOURI;

ALSO,

IN THE UNITED STATES, ALONG THE OTTIO, AND THE ADJACENT PROVINCES,

IN 1801, 1802, <§• 1803.

WITH

A SKETCH OF THE MANNEUS, CUSTOMS, CHARACTER, AND THE CIVIL AMD BELICIOUS CEREMONIES OF THE PEOPLE OF THOSE COVNTRISS.

BY M. PEER IN DU LAC.

TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH.

km

LONDON:

PRINTED FOR KICH^VRD PHILUPS, 6, NEW BRIDGE STREET,

BLACKFRIARS, By /. 0. Barnard, 51. SnoU, UiU,

1807.

ii % • M

TRAVELS

m

m

ft I I

THROUGH THS

TWO LOUISIANAS, Sfc.

CHAJ>. 1.

DEPARTURE FROM BOURDEAUX.—BANKS OF NEWFOUNDLAND—COD FISHERY—ARRIVAL AT THE BAY OF SANDY HOOK.—NEW YORK. PROMEN'ADES.—PUBLIC BUILDINGS.— MARKETS. — YELLOW FRVER. — COMMERCE.— RELIGION.—CUSTOMS.—EDUCATION, SfC.

1 LEFT Bourdeaux on the 14th of August, 1801, and embarked in the Oliver, merchantman, of the United States, commanded 'ty Captain Coucklin. We set sail on the following day with a fresh and favourable wind, which in a short time carried us out of sight of the coast. Occupied with the thoughts of France, which I now quitted for the first time, I kept my eyes fixed on the shore, unt-l, contused with the clouds, it entirely disappeared.

I afterwards began to direct my attention to my fellow-travellers. They were twenty-five in number, and most of thera were bound for St. Domingo, where they hoped to collect the wrecks of their fortunes, and regain their plundered habitations. Every thing induces me to believe that they have unhappily met with death in that place where they were going to seek what contributes so much to the happiness of life.

Some travellers fatigue their readers with minute accounts of the variations of the barometer and the winds; but I shalj only observe, that these were visible in the appearance and behaviour of the passengers, w ho, being young and unaccustomed to the sea, elevated their hopes to excess, or depressed them with the same lacility, according as the changes of tl»e weather were either fav«)urable or adverse.

After a month's sail we arrived at the banks of Newfoundland,

A 2

P

■li ii

CPMHHI

4 DU lac's TRAVEl-S.

where we experienced a calm for twenty-four hours. I took this opportunity to go on board a fishing-vessel, >vhich was within cannon-shot of us. A Flemish sailor, whom I met with, related tc me the manner of turning this fishery to the greatest advantage.

" Those," said he, " who wish to render this fishery lucrative, arrive on the banks during the first fortnight of June, having on board a numerous crew, and a number of boats proportioned to the size of their vessels. Each boat carries four or five men, among whom the business of the fishery ir divided. One baits the hook and casts the line into the sea, another draws it up, a third detaches the cod, while the Others clean them, cut off their heads, and take out their tongues. When the boat is full, which, in plentiful years, happens frequently during one day, they bring it to the vessel, where others receive the fish, salt it, and store it in the hold, in which situation it becomes flattened and partly dried." I myself was a witness of these operations, which are executed by the fishermen with admirable dexterity.

This fishery, before the war, was the school which furnished our best sailors. The laborious life which they lead, the bad nourishment, the intemperance of the weather, and the violence of the winds, almost continual m these latitudes, so accustom them to hardships and fatigue, thai the government have granted particular protection and encouragement to this commerce.

After the captain had made his observations, we quitted the banks of Newfoundland on the 17th of September. A favourable wind was carrying us towards our destination, and we had already passed the dangers of Nantucket, when the formidable nordi-vvest blasted all our hopes. The stream in which we found ourselves bore us to the east, and after having tacked six whole days, we were sixty miles farther from land than when the wind Iiad changed. At last, in a few days, it changed again, and carried us within si^ht of the coast. We were in hourly expectation of the pilots, when a thick fog suddenly ariting, obscured the land, which we had contemplated with so much pleasure. A most violent north wind now left the captain in doubt what course to take; whether to enter without a pilot, or steer back into the main. Tlie fear of the equinoxial winds induced him to adopt the former resolution, although not without great danger. With the plummet in his hand, and by the assistance of an old sailor, who had piloted before in these latitudes, he executed his desigu with as much success as prudence.

At the moment we were entering Sandy Hook, the fog suddenly disappeared. JDiicclcd by an elevated tower, on tlie top

ARRIVAL AT NEW VOUK. S

of which flics are lighted every iiiglit for the security of ships, we, without trouble or danger, cast anclior, and were sheltered trom the wind, which blew all uight with imcomnion violence.

I am ignorant whether the land after a long voyage appears more beautiful than it really is; but I am certain that the sight of Sandy Hook made me experience novel and delightful sensations. Theverdure of the surrounding hills, die neatness and elegance of the houses, the appaient fertility of the earth, the mnnljer of ships entering and departing; in short, every thing pleased and astonished me. 1 passed the rest of the day in contemplating this charming landscape, and in discoursing \\ith n.y fcllow-trat vellers on the new country which we were going to visit.

A lantern affixed to the top of our main-mast, announced to the pilots that we were in want of their assistance; and the next day, by sun-rise, we received one on board. The north wind, which continued to blow, although with less violence, obliged us to tack for two hours, and pass irom the bay of Sandy 1 look to that of New York. The entry of diis buy is so bound by tiie two points of land which form it, that a few pieces of cannon planted on the shores would prevent the approach of ships oi all descriptions. If the United Slates have neglected this precaution, it must be attributed to the great security iu which they live w^ith respect to the powers of Europe.

At ten o'clock we arrived before a line hospital, distant nine or ten miles from New York. Here the physician appointed fx> inspect the ships, resides. Those in which he finds any sick are obliged to perform a quarantine proportioned to the uatuie of the sickness. As we were all in good heallh, the doctor's visit was not long. He congratulated us on our good appemaiicCj drcuk a glass of Madeira wine, and returned to iiis house, having given the captaia a certificate of heaith for himself and all hi^ company. Scarcely had we set sail again when several journalists arrived, anxious to receive the laiest news from Eiuope. We delivered to them all the papers we were in possession of; and, as an acknowledgment, they received such of tiie passengers on board as were desirous of going on shore. I was amoi);^ this number; for being much weakened by the sea-sickness, 1 dc sired to regain an element on which I should be able to recover my health and strength. At length, after a short sail, I arrived at the land of liberty, the only place perhaps in liie civilised world where people fjeely communicate their thoii^lils wiihout dread of the laws, which only restrain calumny ; and ulicrc the powerful man is no more than the plaiii citizen, who more slrictlv owes an account of his public jnid private conduct t«» socittv, Happy people, if they know how to render themselves worthv ot' this liberty without abusing it!

l\

sn

f

6 DU lac's travels.

New York, one of the most ancient cities of North America, is, without dispute, the finest both for its situation and its buildings. Its population h.is been almost doubled within these twelve years, and at present amounts to sixty thousand, for the most part of English, Scotch, and Irish origin. It is to this superiority of situation that this city owes the preference, which most strangers who visit the United Stuu s give it. Placed at the entrance of two rivers, in which the largest .ships can navigate at all seasons of the year, it has an invaluable advantage over the other American ports. The number of ships ot all burthens, with which these rivers are filled, give to a traveller the most enlarged ideas of the activity and industry of the inhabitants. By unremitted diiiirence they have risen from indigence to a degree of opul-jnce difficult to be conceived. Money, so scarce after the war carried on for theii independence, is at present abundant, and the articles of European manufacture are in profusion, pnd at a low price. The houses, formerly built of wood, have been replaced b> others of stone or brick ; and the apartments, without extravagance, are furnished with every thing that is agreeable or useful.

The public buildings announce the wealth of the community; and the rhurches, tliit of the societies to which they belong. The streets are broad and furnished with footways, which are regularly lighted at night. The markets are well provided, and remarkable both for their regulation and neatness. The tish-mai ket is particularly so for the quality and diversity of the species, both of the river and the ocean, which are sold at a cheap rate.

The custom-house, the court of justice, the state-prison, and the poor-h()u.«eH, are so many superb and well preserved buildings. The guildhall, which is small and in a bad situation, is to be rebuilt on a more magnificent plan in a better quarter of the town. The activity displayed in this country in the erection of pul)liG buildings is so great, that it is thought before the end of J 806 this edifice will be entirely finished.

New York has two public promenades, the one in the centre of the cifv, the other at die point of union of the two rivers, both litiie frequented. Walking does not ceem an amusement to this industrious people. The merchants seek recreation in the country on Sundays. As for the American ladies, they prefer walkin'i; in tlie principal street, whose broad and commodious footways aic onuunented with beautiful trees, and where they enjoy the j I' ;•>; ure of beholding the elegant shops which line it.

"The pronKT.ude on the sea-shore is called The Battery, since the governint.nt, lerriHed by the menaces of France, have been obliged to :u!opt means for its safety. At that time they planted Iheie ihiriv twcnry-four pounders, which they intend to remove

\'

■I

iU

\'

T'FFECTS OF THE VELLOW FEVER. 7

on the conclusion of a treaty of peace. Two cross batteries were also constructed on two small islands a little distant, in order to prevent any approach to the city ; so greatly do this people dread a govpinnieut without principles or moderation.

Most of the merchants or proprietors of vessels have docks, in which their ships are defended from the tide and the winds. These docks, wh.ch are of great advantage to commerce, are extremely prejudicial to the health of the city. They are in the greatest number on the river towards the east, which is the most mercantile, and at the same time the most unhealthy part of New York.

That epidemic disease so generally known by the name of the yellow fever, constantly manifests itself here ; which seems to oppose the population of the cities of this continent, and to conspire against the prosperity of their inhabitants, As soon as the first symptoms discover themselves, the cities are almost deserted, the shops are shut, and the public builHinas abandoned. Even the exchange is forsaken, and every individual who possesses the means of subsistence, employs them to escape the contagion. If ambition and avarice cannot determine the Americans to b.'-ave the yellow fever, it may easily be imagined that sentiments of friendship, attachment, or love, would not be able to detain diem : the men approach with fear; fathers, and even mothers themselves, refuse assistance to their children, and forget their affection; children abandon their parents; in a word, the fear and horror whitli this disease inspires break the most sacred '"'of society, and cause all ideas of humanity to vanish. The sic* left to tl-^ care of negroes, who seem privileged from the e^ of the contagion, and who often dispatch the patient in oiri get possession of his property; certam to escape }>unishr» when the courts are shut and the oflicers Hcd. Notwithstandn;^. the opinion of the inhabitants of the United States, I am induceci to attribute it to the dirtiness of some parts of the city, but principally to the merchants' docks, or w harfs, in v, hich, till lately, no outlet was contrived for theaccumuittcd tilth ; which, acted upon by the intense heats of August and September, produces those mephitic etfluvia which are so unfavourable to life. Experience is found to conliim this opinion, llie inliabitants nearest the river on the east, are alwavs lirst attacked Ir tht^ contagion; while thooo on the river, to the north, where there are fewer dc< ks, aid the streets wider and better aii( J, seldom feel its dreadf'ul effects. The obstiiiacv of individuals respecting the causes of this disease, has not prevented thegoverniiKUt iVoin taking those measures which prudence riqjiired. The couslructionof the docks has hcen altered. New York has already ex-< perienced the advantages of this wise reaolulion, which probab'.v

m

tih

I 0

I

S Du lac's travels.

will be adopied in all the maritime cities of the U:2ited States, that alone are depopulated by this disease. At a time when many parts of Europe are in dread of a disease, the very mention of which inspires terror, 1 think I ought to make known its principal symptonfis, and thu3 aflford professional nien the means of supporting the spirits and diminishing the evils of society. Being attacked myself, when on my passage to New O iCans, 1 leame ' from my French physician, that my complaint had all the appearance of the yellow fever, but such as often occurs when the blood is pure and the season favourable.

It is difficult to discover the reason of its acquiring the name Tellow fever*. The most probable conjectures art derived from the existence of an epidemic disease, nearly of the same nature, * which appeared in the samfe parts of the new world during the great heats of the summer of 1745. At that time the maritime cities, although less inhabited and better aired, alone felt its effects. It left the patients who survived in a state of great debility, and during the tedious period of their convalescence they bad a yellow look and a languid countens e.

Every person attacked by the yellow fever experiences lassitude, and a violent pain in the kidneys. A severe headach accompanies this first symptom, which precedes the teve.; some hours. Soon after the mouth becomes parched, and the respiration difficult, the tongue thickens, and becomes, together with the >vhole interior of the mouth, of a black colour, similar to extravasated blood; to these symptoms delirium succeeds, and the patient is violently agitated, and would destroy himself if not prevented. When spitting of thick and black blood commences, inflammation of the eyes, repletion and rupture of the vessels, there remain no longer any hopes of recovery; the patient sinks into n stupor and dies. In two days the disease arrives at its crisis ; but death does not ensue, in general, until the fourth. At the end of tliis period, if a gentle perspiration comes on, and the appetite returns, a prompt recovery is certain.

A great question, at present, among medical men is, whether it is contagious or not? Some pretend that it is certainly contagious, and that the least intercourse is sufficient to communicate^it; others, on the contrary, say, that it may be contagious, but only to those of particular habits, or that an asseniblage of different causes conjoined with the intercourse is required; and if these canines are absent, however great the intercourse, there

' " myself in a

will be nothing to dread.

Without involving

• I: is certain the patient never assumes a ydlow appearance; the eyea are only affecled as in any other viuleut lever, 3

REMARKS ON THE Yi:i,;,OW rp.VF.R.

9

t I

t ^

dis(M;ssion too far bevouci nn iibilitits, I sshnll relate farts, leaving proiession:'.! iiu-ii to draw conclusions from them. '1 iiis disorder confines its ravages to the ;;ea-C(;ast, uiv' there is no instance of its having been pro|);»gated in the country.

In the summer c»f 1794, which deprived Philadelphia of nearly one-sixth of Its population, one houst- in the country, less than a mile distnnt from the city, was the letrtiit of i\vent\-fonr families, wlio all escaper, the infection. At New Yoili they have never seen it extend beyond the rivers, although g>-eat numbers of sick arc daily crossing them, seeking a purer air.

I am unible to dt tennine whether my account of it will be of any utility ; but if the disease wlucli aillicts some pu?is of Europe, be the same which has ravaged for souk; years the maritime cities of ^\merica, it is an a' jcious act of cruelty to shut against those who are infected the road to the country, whither they may go without injuiy to society.—I say, that to sacrifice whole vill iges, to deliver up their inhabitants to desp;iir, in deburring th ni every means of escaping deatli, without being certain of theit inlicting others, is a crime , orlhy only of those barbarous a^-^s from whic^h we believe ourselves so far removed. And, lastly, Jf the American government had followed this plan, its finest cities w ould have been destroyed, and its richest possessions ruined.

I'lie commerce of the United S-ates is certainly considerable. 1/ike that of Holland, it has lisrn from the ruins of nations engaged ir. war; and cctnsequently will not, after peace in Europe, dis) lay the same activity.

Since the establishment of ihtir independence, the United Slates Iiave, by the wisdom of their government, ae(|uirtd a degree of prosperity and power which has already been regarded by some European nations with envy.

New York principally furnishes the West Indian colonies with provisions. Sugar, cotton, indigo, coii'ee, and, in short, all the produce which they receive in payment, is exported in their ships to Europe, und exchanged for territorial produce or manufactures, which ihey either bring back to the colonies, or to the United States, for consu nption. Uesides this, l^ngland and France iiave, in those years of scarcity with .\hifl: they have been afflicted;, found resources froni this rising and industrious people. The excessive price of j>rovisions in those dreadful times, has driven many from Europe to America.

Besides the export-trade, New York possesses an extremely valuable branch of industry The buihiing of diip> will for along Muie be a souico of wealth and prosperity, 'i'he goodiie^s ol

F> I L A ( -I B

•mi

I

10

DU LAC S TRAVELS.

i

the materials, and the skill of the workmen, render them the best in the uorld.

Without foretelling its futui^ grandeur, I shall only observe, the whole town is mi motioi^: the workshops resoiujd witii the noise of the workmen; ships constantly arrive from all parts of the world: indeed, the opulcuee of this rising state cannot better be described than by comparing it with ancient Tyre, wliich ail contcmpora»7authors have repres<?nt( d as the queen of connnerc, and the sovereign of the seas.

1 should have viewed with greater pleasure the prosperity of this beautiful city, if my mind, yet lamenting the situation of rrafice, had not b( >n obliged to draw the sad comparison. The shattered conditijn of our ships, with which the sea was formeily covered, bill which are now rotting in our ports ; the; misery of our commercial <:ities, compared with the opulenceof ll.is; every thing, in short, miKJe me ardently f!<. sire peace, \\lnch alone ran rcylore wealth and prosperity to France.

In New York, as in most other provinces of the United Slates, the laws are weak, and are often made the source ot great abiise. 'J'iiis assertinn is couiirmed by the great number of bankruptcies ^\hich occur eveiy day ; more from knavery than the consefjuence of real misfortune. As commerce increases, those laws will be rendered niore efficacious. The ^late of New York has aheady adapted some useful regnlationij, and the goveriunent will stop ou'y at tliat pohit where too great seventy would .'pp(w the pood of society and its true interests.

In a country whvrv popnhition consists of people who have eiiiiiiraterl i,.,ui di(fcrent nations, different modes of religion jniist be toh-ratcd; in the I'nitt d States all are equallv protected by the uoxc ihim. !'•. F,;k!i ,s,rt ji:is a separate place of worship, muhKliils fnll„»\'is assemble without dread of molestatioii. Fjlly-iliree christian sects are reckoned in the United States. >ew oius are daily Mprin;;ing uj), and it is impossible to sav ^\h^rr th(> numl)er will st<»p.

'nicgreat«r part of the inhabitants of New York profess the retornied icligion. A Frenchnian cannot, without having beei) a witne...*, lurm an idea of the decorum which reigns iirtheii «Inurhv. To talk or hmuh in the«n \Mm\d be a want of respeci, \ ' *'.l^ l>iodMce.l the least disturbanc, becomes pmiishabie. Among all rK»' sects (the .lews excepted) Sunday in particnlaib d,.v..f.(l to the Mir.ces of reli-ion. On that dav all business i'. snspeudt (I. jiiid ail public amnsiments forbidden". I'lverv person only goes from home t<. ifie hf.use of pra\(r, three tiuit's a day, except th.' I{nm;in catholi.s, who lia\e oiilv two Wiivccs. The .-leTi.ydisls, t^u^Llsalists, audollurs, being fewer here Uian at

AMERICAN EDUCATION.

H

v<|

Pliikulclpliiu, I shall ikfc.r an arcimut of lliem until my visi^ to that city. Notwitli.standint^- t! is wondeiliil diversity, it has never produord titlier triudde or discontent in the stale.

If tliere is any thing siuprisiug in the <vreut number of religions, t':e difference of our customs and those of this place will not be less so. Anion^- us, liirls "re separated from boys from their infancy, and kept under the inspection of their mothers or governesses. Here tlie two sexes pass their youth without any distinction, attei.d the same schools, and receive the same iiistructions. ^Vhcn they luive coniplefed their education, which generally happens about their twelfth or thirteenUi \car, they are not more restrained. Their school-fellows and acquaintances arc permitti d to visit them; antl when love succeeds to friendship, far from concealing tlieir sentiments, they declare them with a fra?ikness which characterises an ungoverned and unrestrained inclination. Those ladies most distinguished by their fortunes or the rank of their parents, walk alone with their lovers, Mithout deriving any thuig from such conduct injurious to their reputation.

The education of youth is simple, and ill calculated to render th(>m learned ; no effoi ts of genius, which have so nuieh distinguished the inhabitants of the mother country, have yet appeared in the Ur'icd States. Their studies are confined to reading, writing, and arithmetic : some are instructed in the rudiments of GreeV and I^tin, but so snperliciall} that there is seldom any one found who retains the least renu.inbrance of them. Ttie people are commercial, and all their thoughts are directed to the acquirement of wealth, wluch almost alway stifles the love of polite literature and the abstract sciences. 'J'he aecomplishincnts of music, dancing, and painting, were unknown until some timu ago they were introduced by the French.

CHAP. 11.

SrWAHK.—ENVIRONS OF NEW AUK.— FALLS OF TIIR PAIS' SAIC. — KXCUUSION TO NF.W JERSUY.— ELlZAltlTH

TOWN.— CHCOLE WOMEN.— UHUNSW ICK.—IIM.NTON.

AHUIVAL AT Fill LA DELl'lI I A.

yYlTIUl a resitUnce of some weeks I quilted Xew York, where n>nq>toms ol the yellow fever appeared. The season,, although far advanc*^!, continued excessively hot. 'llie knowledut! which 1 had acquired t»f the treatment of the Americans,

-31 IXJ IIIVISI

.1..

It 1-1

>r th

fvru !o persons who arc iiu: iicui

lujspiial, to which strangers are sent villiout distinction; the

Ml

'A

ii:

u'i

12

DV LAt S TRAVELS.

i

I

dreadful character of the disease ; every thing induced me to seek some place where I might, if possible, escape the contagion. Newark, in Jersey, was the part I fixed upon. This little town, or rather large village, is the most beautiful I have ever seen. The houses, although of wood, are elegantly constructed, and all the inhabitants seem to enjoy the comforts of life.

The number of inhabitants at Newark is about two thousand, al Host all Presbyterians. There is also a meeting of Anabaptists ; but 1 seltlom ever saw twenty-five people assembled. The Presbyterian (lunch rivals all others at New York, by its size and the elegance of its steeple. The I'^piscopalian chuich, which is much smaller, is carefully kept in repair.

Situated on a pleasant declivity of a hill, which commands a vast plain, Newark, celebrated for the s;dubrity of its air and the hospitality of its inhabitants, attracts a great number of strangers, especially when people are obliged to fly from the city. There is scarcely a house which does not contain some. This intercourse occasioned entertainments, at some of which I assisted, Jess from the love of pleasure than from the de-ire of judging of the character of the Americans. At ilie tirst sound of an instrument, that indolence and apathy, which seem to characterise both sexes, are seen no more. The most sprightly country dances are preferred. In these moments they appear to the most advantage. Naturally beautiful and fair, 'the Americans are destitute of that vivacity and expression of countenance without ^yhlch beauty is but a body without a soul. Passing an uniform life, they are only lively when excited by pleasure, or any vioh nt emotion; and then they are,as it were,"unlike themselves. Without doubt, they are far from possessing the grace and elegant motions of the Fnnch ladies; but they display, in their attitudes and behaviour, an appe:;rance which gives rise to sentiments which cannot be suppressed. The girls go to entertainments without their mothers, who .av seldom present, and who remain at home occupied wuh their other chihlren, or in Uieir hom^ehold atiairs.

Duiing my stay at Newark, i virwcd its environs, and particularly the banks of the riv«T Paissaic, .)n which the village IS built. Thecountiy is carefully cultivaJ.d ; and although the ;mds are of a sandy and infi lior (pialilv, thev aie sold at a vcrj high price. Desirous of not leaving anv thing worthy of attenteution unobMivod, I visit«(I the falls of the river l^iisJai*-, which are consider.'d the greatest cmiusilv of th,- piovmce. The viliJt,U'« of PatterK.li, which is on its borders, is seventein miles distant fioni Newark. The road is one of ilie n.nst Ij.jautiful in the L nilcd JStutcsj the number of cuuulry sv"ts, and the tultww

I

u.i^ - - -a ■

TOWN OF TATTERSON.

13

I

of the liill on the opposite bank, contributes much to its embellishment. Many villages through which 1 passed possessed nothing ]);uticuhirly worthy of n niaik : the liouses are well built, and the land in general wi 11 cultivated ; the articles of consumption are received from ISevv York in exchange for timber and fire-wood.

Having ariived at Patterson, which probably owes its existence to the number of visitors which the falls attract, [, with some others led by the same curiosity as myself, took a survey of them. They are !i;eventy feet in hei;jht, and during the smnmer months present a grand and majestic appearance. There are in the town a cotton manufactory, built at a great expence, but deserted for want of sufficient funds; a handsome paper-mill, and an academy.

On our return to the inn, the landlord presented to us a book, in which it is customary for strangers to write their names, and in the first page I perceived tijose of Washington an«l his lady. AJany persons have added sonie remarks, conformable to the impression which this picturesque place, has made upon them

A few days subsequent to mv journey to Patterson, 1 was invited to make an excursion to the interior of Jersey, i was told that the family I was going to visit inhabited the richei^t district of that province ; and that the adjacent coimtry merited the attention of a curious observer. We set out on the second of November, and passed through the beautiful town of Springfield, the principal place in the cfjunty of Essex. The little spring, from which it derives its name, supplies all the year pure and fertilising water The meadows through which it passes furnishes hay of the best quality in abundance. Turkey and Bedminster, the former distant five and the latter six njiles from Springfield, present nothing remarkable. The lands on each fide of the road, to a great distance, are cultivated with care; and the numeroua well-built hal)itations prove tlie opulence and industry of thcif cultivators. Th«^ principal commerce of these little countries consists in salted provisions, wtiich, being sent to the markets at Trenton, Hrunswick, or New York, are exported lo the West Indies. The road from Turkey to lledminster, the dislanee of four miles, presents the most charming prospect imaginable. Situated on nn agreeable declivity, it connnamJH an immense country ;«nrounded with wood, and in every rc-^pecl similar to the county of Essex in England, whose heights present a view of seven difiVrent counties. IMinebrook, where'.e jcniasni d. is a -. iiingR cliiantiy liiuir. Its situation is picU"fesr,ue, and the quality of tho circinnjaccnt lands h superior to any that

■^1

^--K.„

14

T>V lac's THAvnLS.

I i

!st

JUm't

A luui liitlicrto soni. It ik cultivated by iv-'grocs, who arc treated with kindness and humanity.

i\l>t'rhHviup; passed some days in visiting this beautiful countrv, I returned to Nev.iwk. The north-west ivinds, which are in" these countries extremely cold, had arrested the progress of tlie yellow fever. 'I'lic mercliiiiits returned to their busincHS, ;iud the workmen to their labours ; I proposed, tlierefore, to continue my travels.

On the seventh of November T set out for Elizabethtown, a beautiful little place, seventeen miles distant from Newark. It has, since the troubles in the West Indies, afforded a retreat to many inhabitants of St. Domin'40 and Guadaloupe, wlio came to seek an asylum in this part of the continent. The apparent tranquillity of these islanJs has induced many of them to return to their former habitations ; but the t^iore iMiideut jvart, or those who have other resources have deferred their dejjarture to more liappy times. Eli/:abethtown, situated on a small river which flo«s into the bav of New York, is the most a;:;reeable part of Jersev. Its population is not greater than ihat of Newark; and its inhabitants almost all profess the reformed and Presbyterian religions, luch sect has a church, well built, and carefullv kept in repair.

i had an opportunity, during my stay at Ehzabethtown, of being present at some French parties, where I was enabled to judge of the character and disposition of the Creole women. Idleness, supineness, and levity, seem to constitute the basis of dieir pleasures. The slowness of their speaking, their embarrassed countenances, their love of ease, and their repeated yawnings, may appear amiable in the sight of those men \\ ho have been accustomed to such graces from their infancy, but a rrenchnian must endure much in srch company before he can derive

anv pleabure. • . r

Notwithstanding the pressing hivitati(m» that I received from my friends, with whom I had spent some agreeable days at J^lizabcthtown, I set out /or Hrunswick on the 1 1th of November. i had for mv companion an old soldier, who had fought agamst the independence of the United States, under the conmiand of Lnid C:ornwalli3, and had rmiaincd there since the peace. lie .sii()',\( d me two thickets on the road, where the two armies had been cnciuiiped f<»r many days, and at some little distance a pluiu w here thev had had more bloody work. T«» n»y rearet he left me at Bridgelown, seven miles distant from I'^lizubetluown. This place is'inly renuukuble from the number of its bridges; it is ^.^^ almost enineiv surrounded by ihe ri\ti Uoaway, which has an

w

'V.

paling into the bay of Saudy Hook. The road from Bridge

KRUNSNVICK A V T» TRENrON.

IS

w

town to Biiuiswick is loss plcusant, and in worse rep.iir. The toujiti) s|)oor{iiul badly cultivated; and the mmieious forests ot piue-tr< es discover the barrenness of the land.

'Bnmswuk, at nhich I arrived in five bonrs, is situated on a hid, the toot of which is watered by the river llantiii, over Mhich :i handsome wooden bridge lias" been constructed. It is necessary to observe, that almost all the bridges have been built by companies which, for a certain term of years, receive a toll appomted by the goveraraent to reiuibiirse them, and to support the repairs which are requisite. At the expiration of this term, the tolls are reduced so as to be sulKcient only for tlieir repair.

The population of BM,..:\vick amounts to about three thousand. The greater part are Piesbvterians; and latelv the Methodists have erected a church. The commerce of irrain and salt provisions is so extensive, that the merchants seiurthesc articles to New York, from whence they receive in return every thin" necessary for the consumption of "the nci^iibouring countries. A great quantity of furniture, for the use of the West India islands is manufactured here. The number of stran-crs constantly passin-^ and repassing from Philadelphia to New York is-another source of Its prosperity. The piincipal street is full of inns; and yet there are olteu so m:my visitors, that they can scarcely tmd lodgings.

After having remained here twentv-four hours, 1 proceeded towards IVenton, which is distant tliiitv miles. The road was as bad as that which 1 h ul passed during'the two picccdin-' days. Ihe first place, twelve miles distant from I3runs\\ick, is Kingstown: It scarcely merits the name of a village. Prin.;eton, six iniles farther, is more consideiable: it contains a court of justice, and a college*, which has obtained soin.- celebrity There IS only one street, Mhich is not paved. The lan.!s are good, well .ultivated, and sell at a high price. The number of inh:d)itaiu* amounls to about eij^lit hundred, most of whom are Presbylenans. ^

Trenton, the capital of Jersey, is built at a little distance from the Delaware, and is only celebrated bv its public buildings. It contains four thousand inhabitants," who are chiijly i*ies!)yt(>rians and Uoiiian catholics; there are also (.^lakcis, Muthodists. Anabaptists, and Lniversalists ; llie streets are broad ami well ()aved, the churches are well constructed, and the publii; '"' ' I'l I78y, in conseipunce of some dis

'f4

m

m

' f;

murkets well regulated

uier

It was burnt o few tjuys after my departure; but in rlic fjilu\v ;«-■ ..u-j,. It was reliuilt on u ujuro t.\tt;nsiv« plan. *

|)laii

- m

16

DU lac's travels.

'tifit

I

putcs witli the governor of Pennsylvania, the Congress bmlt n liall, in wlkh were held their meetings. 11 is a perfect square of forty-fivp leeti the offices adjoining are well distributed, and the surrounding gardelis large and in good oider. The academy is equally well constructed; and the youth receive as good an toucationas it is possible in a country not yet supplied \vilh very

skilful and learned men. •, , , i • •

Trenton receives every thing required from Phdad.'lplna in exchange for isalt provif-ions and articles of manufacture, 'i'here is a manufactory of nails, which (mploys a gr; at nmnher of workmen. I visited most of them, attended by the treasurer of state, to whom I had brotight a Utter of iiitrodnetiou. Although he was chief of a idace which in the I nited States is repua-d to be Jacobinical, 1 found hiin an aineeal)le and learned man. At a future time I shall speak of the dlJTereiicc of pohtual opinions which ought to be less in this than in any other country. But wherever there are men there will be divisions, which at fii'it ft)rni parties, and aiterwards subvert the strongest empires.

The road from Trtntoii to Phihulelphia, hie that from New York, is bad. It wcniKl be a matter of astonishment that die communication between the two principal cities in the L'nited States was not be Iter attended to, if it were not known Uiat mercantile countriet, always neglect whatever is of no advantage to commerce. The merchandise passes by s-ca from j^hiladeli)hia to >;ew York; besides, as the road almost entirely crosses Jersey, •ihich derives few advantages from it, that state will not expend enormous sums to enrich its neigbboius. I'xtween Trenton and Bristol, which are distant t\\ elve miles, there are very few larins. The lands are cultivated and sown with wheat, r^e, t.nd maize, which are the chief i^oduetions of Jersey. Bristol is a little town, pleasantlv situattdon the right bank of the river Delaware. Burlington, which is built on the opposite bank, carries on the greates't commerce in Jer':-ev. The vessels of 150 tuns, which eoup lo-.ided vulh necessaries for the country, bring back m exchange all sorts of provisions. From Bristol to Philadelphia, PrauUbrt alone merits attention. It contains eleven hundred mhabitants of various religions; the Pnjsbyterians, liowcver, are the most numerous. From thenct to Philadelphia tlie country u neither nujre inhabited nor better cnltivaletl, and nothing announces the approach to the finest city of the t nited States, and probablv of the new continent.

The 'Delaware is the boundary of the stales of .Jersey and Pfunsylvania. It is not more than fifty or sixty fathoms below Trentmu but in the neighbourhood of Pliiladelphia it is ot u width equal to the largest rivers m France. 1 have seen it co\ered with vessels of all vizcs; and even ships of war can navigate

\^

\^

ACCOUNT OF PHILADELPHIA. ff

it at all seasons except the winter, when they are in danger 6f being broken in pieces by the ice. At sortie distance from the city, I observed a do:"k-yard, in which there were more than twelve ships building: among others there was a beautiful frigate fitting up, and intended to be sent by the government to the Medi^ terranean, where the United States maintain a fleet to preserve their commerce from the piracy of the Barbary powers.

CHAP. Hi.

rUNEREAt RITES.—DESCRIPTION OF PHILADELPHIA

PUBLIC BUILDINGS.—BANKS.—LIBRARY.—THEATRE. —HOSPITAL.—rooR-HOUSES.

HE day after my arrival at Philadelphia, I went to view the interior of the city. I had scarcely crossed the street, vfrhen 1 saw a body carrying to the grave. More than three hundred persons, decently dressed, followed it in silence. The coffin was made of mahogany, without any exterior decorations. The procession stopped at a large burial-ground belonging to the Quakers, surrounded with walls twelve feet in height, and planted with rows of the weeping willow &nd th« cypress. The whole ceremony consisted in depositing the bod) in a grave five feet deep; after which, each returned in silence, without any perceptible lamentation or regret. This species of philosophy accords with the religious principles of the Quakers, ot w horti I shall speak hereafter. For the present, I shall content myself in giving some account of the respect paid by the different religious sects in the United States to their dead.

Each sect possesses a piece of ground, destined for the interment of its followers. These grounds are surrounded with walls or pales, to prevent the entrance of arty animal. On ihe death of a member, the relations assemble, and invite to the funeral all those with whom the deceased has had any acquaintance. Those who follow the coffin are generally dressed in black, and show a respectful sorrow, according as they have been interested with the defunct or his family. When the body has arrived at the place of interment, the minister makes a short discourse, in which he enumerates the qualities and virtues of the deceased. He reminds them of the shortness of human life, and exhorts them to live well; after which, he throws some mould into the grave. Every person present follows his example, the relations first, then the friends, and the grave diggers oomplete this mournful ceremony. When the grave is tilled, they place over it a marble slab, on which is engraven in large letters the name of the di'ceased, the day of his birth, and also of his

DU LAC] c

1»

J>V lac's 'i^RA'VELS.

:/

ai rr*(j^

death. They often add some sentences, which relate to hi* public or domestic virtues. Those whose fortunes will permit, have them erected at a great ex pence. The custom of mourning is strictly observed by all the sects except the Quakers. Among some societies, the father and mother put on mourning even for their infants.

As the burial of the dead among all civilized nations has been accounted one of the first duties of society, a duty so little respected during the revolutionary tinies of France, 1 thought it necessary to 'reat of it in a separate chapter. When it was w ritten, France had no longer to deplore the imperfection of this

fjart of her laws. But I tliink that the example of l people ike the Americans, ought to add still more to our ceremonies.

Philadelphia in every respect merits the title of the first city of tlie United States. It is built on the ri^ht bank of the river Delaware, from whence, according to the plan of its founder, it ought ' to extend to the Schuylkill, which is iWMuthan two miles distant j but the great advantages from the proximity of a navigable river have induced the people to build it in another direction. Consequently, instead of forming a perfect square of two miles, it extends three miles on the Delaware, while it is not built more than three quarters of a mile on the side of the Schuylkill. Thus the reservoir, which according to Mr. Penn's plan ought to have been placed in the centre of the city, to supply every part with water, is at a great distance from the western extremity. The building which incloses it is of a fine architecture, and agreeably terminates a street, opposite to which it is constructed. This street, which is ;,$fi fifty feet wide, exclusive of the foot-ways, which are ten on each 7f^ side, is one of the finest in the world. The markets are JiBCI fathoms in length, ele{>;antly built, and superior to any I have ever seen in Europe. They are furnished daily with every delicacy which can be desired; and it is difficult to imagine what order and propriety prevail. I should not insist so much ou this particular, if I were not conscious of its great importance to the health of a populous city. , ^^ /^^.^

The street which divides the eas*e«^part of :he city from the ;V//C»^. we»t«>rw, has occasioned the two parts to be called the Northern and Southern quarters. All the streets that cross it in the direction of the Delaware, are the first, second, third, 8lC. on the North or South. I'hey are all parallel, regularly constructed, and ornamented with good foot-ways. The houses are of brick, and generally adorned with an elegant white stone, which the Americans call marble; but its grain is too coarse to merit that name.

Philadelphia contains about seventy thousand persons of all Hects and religions; and tliere is no mode of worship in Europe

PUBLIC BUILDINGS.

19

^vluch is not practised here. The numbers of ^]^\^}r''tZlZf r b Ues much to the embellishment of the c.ty; but the la^e. of hem will not contain above eleven or twelve hundred F"«"S

The ancient palace of the president that of the congress he banks of Pennsylvania and of the Un.ted States; the hosp.taUhe poor-houses, the library, the theatre, and the musCum, merit

the attention of a traveller. , , ., • u„* „f tLp

The buildings which formerly belonged to the president of the Congress have been sold cbeap, and converted mtoaycadem^ The public library has, in front, a statue ot Dr. Franklin, to whom it seems particularly dedicated. No one is ignorant how much phscal science is indebted to him; ^"d America will never forge^ Sii part he took for her independence. It contams from 30,W0 to 3? 000 volumes, selected with judgment and preserved vyith care-'i^is supported and augmented by an annua subscription nd ;ver; sXriber is permitted to have «"> book he^-^^^^ his own house. The bank ol Pennsyhania, the first mstitution « the kilid in this quarter of the world, --1^ be^-^i^/pt lice if it was less in decay, and if the '^'^'^^^Vr'^iJlit^h has been ristyle were less awkwardly constructed. . j^'^^.^^'^i^^^^^.^^ lately erected at Philadelphia, may be considered the finest piece oflrc^ie tme in the United States, although m my opinion it p .take o the faults of the other. It is entirely built of the ^tone above-menti<>ned; the blocks which ^o- the ccj^u^--^ .t nr« are of an admirable sue and beauty. Ihese banks, novv ev^ a e moit itmarkable for the credit they enjoy than for their eWance o the buildings,- their notes are received m preference ; Tuonoy throughout the whole extent ot the Umted S^tes

The arsenal, begun under the direction of Mr. Ada s, ha been entirely abandoned by his successor on account of ri^ja with which this country was threatened by France. i^^o\se\cr ulclhc "st-ite may be, it ought always to remain on Us guard: no "o^^::^^ the ambits activity of a t-bul^..j^^^^^^^^^^^^ or from the subversive spirit of those «;^" ^ »« ^'^.-^rdilice ruin of their country. The arsenal, situated at a little distance f^m the city! presents a great and well-constructed plan; the arcliilectme i gLd, and in contemplating the part that is complete i s to be nc^retted that this superb edifice remains unfinished. M. .Wahe 8 laU well-built, and beautifully decorated m the

iU^iir Tie pielC.^^^ ^f h^'^' t""':

::r;r pfoduLd any thing of .he kind. So-o^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

ter, trom Minch y ^^^ ^^ ^i^^^^ ^^^ j^^.^,^^ .^^ ^^^ ^,,„,g ^^,„„c

ross buftoonery and vulgar wit. Uri strangers to the interior v f the theatre. I he

I > .^.J.. . n«.«l on/111

«i'(iy to i:(iincu} , aiirs

that is ivn seasoned w dor and decency

. 4:s

^h

C 'Z

' t ■■ if

t: :-|

20

Du lac's Tl\AVrlS.

ear >s assailed vvilh a clamorous din, and the nose with the smell .or tobacco. The men wear their hats du.ing the performance,

Ldies*"^ " ^ ^"""^^^ *"* ^'"'^ "P ^^^'' '^^^' '^ t^<^

♦ '?^ 'hospital is a superb building, where both sexes are attepded by nyrses, and visited by the most celebrated pbvsicians

l^.TrA-a''"- V-^ ^^^' "'■^ P'^^^^ '" ^'ft^'-^nt rooms designed for difterent diseases: they are well ventilated, and only ivarmed sufficient to prevent the cold being disagreeable to the patients. 1 he apartments destined for advice and operations, are the most beautiful, and the library is supplied with every book >^hich may be required. After having visited the various apartn.fnts, I was conducted to the galleries, in Avhich the insane are contined. 1 J,£y are placed in small chambers, and only deprived ot their liberty when it is injurious to society. These chambers are eighty in nymber, and by the assistance of tubes are kept ot an equal temperature. Their food is good, and they are supplied with any thing they stand in need of. Being astoJshed at their numbers, i enquired of the physician to what this disproportion of insane persons could be ascribed. He answered, without hesitation, thi * more than half owed the loss of their reason to ebriety! of the other half, one third to love or jealousy; another, to religous fanaticism'; and the last, to a vanetv oi maladies. ^

The revenues of the hospital are augmented by individual charities and the improvements of the lands belonging to it. Thev are let to respectable tenants by the state of Pennyl^vania. The physicians and surgeons exercise their professions gratuitously during one and sometimes two years. The same humanit'v Which watches over tne sick. ,s sheun to those whom accidents, msfortune, or old age have deprived of ti.e means of supportin-r themselves. Ihey are removed to the poor-houses, where thev are occupied m the most easy employments, decently clothed at.-d maintained. 1 herp is a room set apart for the old, the lamo. tlie blind and all those who are aft)icted with any disease which by slow degrees conducts them to the grave. The men are separated from the women. The men are employed in untwisting old cables, washing, and cleaning the tar ffoin them, that they may be made use of again: thf; women card or spin cotton and wool. Tailors, shoemakers, and others who are unable 10 gam their living in the world, follow here their respective businesses, when their health permits.

f he revenues of the houses, like those of the hospiJal, are managed by respectable inhabitants, who nr^ nnnoin.^j!'. ..-„„ by the state of Fennylvania. ' Pr- -"-^^l ^veij- jear

Philadelphia is of all the cities in the Uriled States oup in

u

RELIGIOUS SECTARIES.

«l

\^

Jjlncl, the yellow fever has made the greatest r^^^^ In 1793 , , U bK^e out ^d affected more than three huodred persons,^* //^ <

fnUmZ^ljclT^^ It agaui appeared ' /

Ali? 1 I ^^^' ^"* ^^^^'npa"'^^ with less terrible svmptoms. nretnrf. g«^«'-»"V'"* •'"'" "'^^P*^^ ^^^^''y Possible means to

rS ^'.^.r;? '°""*"'^ '"f^^^^'^ ^y ^^' 't ^Saia appeared m 1802, attended by the same fatal consequences.

CHAP, ivf

QUAKERS, METHODISTS, ANABAPTI.STS,MORAVl AN BRETIIREN—WILMINGTON.—VISITTO A MAVINSANETHKOUGH LOVE.—BAY OF CHESA PEA K.—BALTI MORE.—FE DERA L

CITY.—GEORGE-TOWN—CONGRESS.—MOUNT VERNON BETHLEHEM.

As I Imve before observed, every mode of worship in Europe s exercised at Philadelphia. Jt would be contrary to my plan theTf..^! '''.V" P^'-^'^"'^'- ,J^^^'> one is acquainted with other nTl'ir ff"- ^T'^'"''' Lutherans. P. eslA terians, and others, ail the offspring of one conunon mother, whose separation

to the Quakers, Methodists, Anabaptists, and Moravian brethren.

ihnl .u ' ^'■- T^'l """^^'•o"s in Pennsylvania, of which

they were the original inhabitanis. Mr. Penn, who has giveis his name to this province was a zealous partizan of this sect, to which he granted particular privileges. The ridicule which has been constantly attached to then, can only exist with those, who

. teYv;7custL:.r"' '"^^^ ""'^ ^^""° ^^•'^^^^ ''^^^'^^^ -^^»

calM^'n ^'''f''''''''^ •;'' .^''"••^''^^' they assemble in a building annnin? ^ r "^' "' "t"'^- i'?"'^ "''" "^ oniameuts, and no placel appouitcd for particular individuals; the women only are separated from the men. The men wear their hats, sit ^down Tnd

snHV" "^"'^•^^f'^"' ""^'- ""« «f ^•''^ society, feding himself i„. spircd, begins to discourse on some part of christian moralitv. Men,

im^."' """? '''"'''""' :'[? P^'"""^^ to comnmnicate th'ei, sentiments, and are attended to without disapprobation. Like tho her sects, they have adopted Sunday fbr then- meetings. The^ ft llnwT P^'/"'^ <^'othed, and wear covered buttons, but never Jollow the taslnon, except for some real advantage. Their hats a.e large, and only taken off when troublesome: The women i,enerally wear dark < olours ; durino «int^r th»>y cover (hcnse'-es null a grey or black cloak, which^reaci.es to their feet! The ^^^tr T '"PP««^^. t« e^^^* the other sects in industrv and wealth ; they support their own poor; have pi ivate hospitals for

•HI

m

£2 DU T-AC'S TRAVELS.

their sick; nnd tbcir cliildren are better educated in their collogc.

''Ti;t£ Patt^^^^ bear arms. But as ever, law rnay be^SlXso^h^^und an expedu:nt duriu, tl^-^'-^l^ indepondence, to unite their rehgious P'"^^^^'^^^^'^^J^^^ f^^^^^ of society. When a collector ot ^axes enters a Quake, shoiu^c he rinds upon a table a bag of numey, Irom ^^^icu he take U e .sum required, and departs without leaving any reco pt ^o erne s pen.it?ed., under pai.> of excc..n.unuc.mon to as. ^t ^nyjn.bl c spectacle, frequent taverns, or plead. AH the ir JP" ;. ■ se^ttled b; their brethren, before uhom.the causes ^J^^^^^ or accusation are laid. Then marriage is as mple ^^'^^^ ceremonies. It consists in a smiple ^^^j''''^^^^ ?" ^Z.*!^^ ^.^.^ intention to live together as man and vite, ^^^ ";^" ^^•:^\"j';^^'^ ^f by nnv vov s or oaths. Then- marriages are u.os ty he cttea ot

...p^ocal incUnation, and the r^^^^%^^^l.::^'^Z:t^ furmsh no instance ot a divorce. Ihis ^"^^^J^;"'^ •„,,!;, ronsiderable charities, and sends out a nun.bei of nnssionaues to civilize the Indiana of the continent.

The Methodists are as tumultuous as t^V' Q"'',;, ^J^.f;^^^^^^^ they take in a literal sense the words ot «<^"P^;"-:r"„\^^^hr.|te of heaven nnist be gamed by force ; cry unto I '^ven &.e 1 hur

pravers are noisy, am? their smgu.g, "' ^""^ ."| .^^^^^^^^^^ i;,arkable fV,r repeated c^aculatic^ns. ^^-"^-^^^Se no outrageous violence of gesticulation. ^^'^^ »'"'']':",|"'^,hich fanous contortions, and va k up -'^"^/^^^^'V^; ."^fx(Un^^^^ thev mount instead of a pulpit, "\ ^ ^^^^e ot d mn^^^^ \> henjne preaching is ended, the most zealous "^ ^lie l.atc.n.tj utterju ^loud vcTice some of their imag„jary ^"^P«-^-;\^'^jf^^^^p^^^^^^^^^^ gation bear xvitness to the cele.ty-l or^icles. Bu. the mpje^^

I gradual. Trom gentle Xt^:^Z.Z::^X ^^ :;:.X;:t:Lc^t:tV:J:- of extravagance which dehnmn

r^dkn over tl.,. .hid, .Ivy f-"'"'-:, ,f™ «^t<m aU ho .0..,.,., a,ulas ,n.u, '•<>>'.''™'f,X''spiu\: X "elm.

L . tr-Hfv ihplr LM-atitude bv nnmoderate tits ot lau nier.

THE FEDERAL TOWN.

23

to remain to tlio entl of the cercuiony, whicli docs not finish until live ')'cio< k in the morning.

'I he Anabaptists are distin^iuished by their beHef that baptism mr.st be, similar to that of St. John, an immei-sion in running water ; and that it cannot be received with advantage initil they have arrived at the jige of discretion. They are dipped naked three times in the water by the minister, who repeats some prayers suitable to the occasion. Their other worship possesses nothing in it extraordinary. The i\nubaptists are less numerous than the Methodists. They are subdivided into many odier sects, which only differ on some particular pc'nts.

The Moravian brethren believe in a comiiiimion wiUi spirits; but in a subsequent chapter I shall mention a work, in which will be found an account of this truly curious and interesting sect.

After a long stay at Philadelphia, 1 proceeded to the interior of the United States. 'I'he Federal Town at which the Congress was assembled, attracted particularly my attention. Being desirous of visiting it, I embarked in a packet-boat, which descends the Delaware as far Newcastle, 40 miles below Philadelpliia. 7'he weather was cold; but being very clear, I was enabled to contemplate the whole day the banks of the river. The prospect on the right wxs beautiful; the lands were well cnltivrited and adojued to a great distance with country seats ; on the left, wb.ich forms part of Jersey, it presents only a sandy s<»il, barren, and micultivated. llavuig artive<l opposite to \Vilmin<>ton, the wind and tide being contrary, the captain thought proper to cast anchor, and defer our departure to the iiext day. 1 therefore went to view this little town, which carries on an extensive commerce in grain. It is celebrated for possessing the best mills in the United Stales. At a liltlt; distinice from this place, the famous battle was fought, which occasioned die cajituie of Philadelphia by the royalist army.

Us population is about two thousand five hundred; the half of whom are Quakers. There are at Wilmington, a court of justice, an hospital and poor-house. The next day, at ten o'clock, I returned to the packet-boat, and descended with the tide, as far as Mewcastle, when I took the stage, and reached Charlestown, in the bay of Chesapeak, w here there is a packet-boat, which sets out an hour ♦ifter the arrival of the stage. The village of Newcastle is plcas;n»tly fiituated on the banks of the Delaware. At a tavern a little distant from Charlestown, I heard of an extraordinary person, uho»". most travellers visited. This man, whose real name was Mikn >wn, had taken an active part in the war for their independence, and was entirely deprived of his reason through an unfortunate attachment. He sometimes received strangers with kindness, and related to them an account of his misfortunes. At

i.r

II ■

H'

24

DU LAC S TRAVKLS.

I I

11 ' .

!

Other times, hiirruHl away by the violence of his disease, he spoke and acted extravagantly, although Jiever troublesome to society.

A young Engjishnvan, with whom I travelled, wislied to arcompany nie. Being provided with a guide, we arrived in two hours, just before sun-set. We «cre informed by his servant that he was on a neighbouring rock. We soon perceived him walking quickly, and talking. At last, being either disturbed by the noise of some dry leavec under our feet, or having finished his discourse, he looked at us, and came to offer us^ his hand. " Whoever you are," said he, " you are welcome. Come to my cottage, I will relate to you my "love, my happiness, for a short time, and the other causes of my grief "

After a frugal supper, during which bespoke confusedly, he made us enter a litlle junlour, hnng round with pictures. " There," said he, is the history of my life ; you may read it in an instant. The beauty of the principal pei son is nothing when compared with the qualities of her mind, and her amiable vi.tues." I entreated him to explain the pictures. Every one related to the life of his Anna; her birth, her first lesson in music, and the moment he was compelled by his duty to tnjruge in the war. He gave us an animated account of the battle in which he was dangerously wounded while commanding the leit wing. Half cured, he had"hastened to the arms of his Anna. His reception presented a mixture of love and fear, whiclv was easily distinguished in all his features. After this picture, followed one n presentiu'jj the dccl.Tation of his love, their marriage, the birth of a daughter. He passed over these happv momoTits with joy ; but siuidenly turning to the opposite side, he shrieked r.nd ran away. We continued^ to observe them, and saw a long train of misfortunes which had befallen him since his marriage. The death of the parents of his Anna ; her long illness, and death. At last we perceived the rock on which ve had met him. He was represented with his hand u[)lifted, and in the attitude of sorrow, t'nderthe picture was written, •' Here are the beloved remains; here I shall end my life ;—may Heaven shortly nut an end to my sorrow !"

The unfortunate man, \\homwc repented to have so affected, had gone to seek a mat worked by his Amui, on whi< h he hoped lo enjoy sleep. What in some measure abale.l our coim ern was, to hear that after ev«ry time he had relatwl his misfortune!*, he toniinued nuu h belter for several days.

'I'he next day, after a sail of eight horns, T arrived at Baltimore, which twelve or tliirleen years ago «lid not contain more thau

I • / t/U~t ;..I..,I.!>...,|.. . !.,•» ..f !.r<iu< lit ilu Itoltllilllli 111 ('VC>><>IIU .'')r).(X)0.

I ivn.n^ ii:iiaLriL.;iit-i , uUx. tiijM< - i.. ,, . j-.-j ti.-.t , _ _ - .

and its commerce ranks it among the most important ports of the United Stute^. Its situation on the buy of Cliosapcak i«

1

^

ACCOUNT OF THE tEDERAL CITY.

Qu

ailvantageous for the admission of ships of all sizes at all sen.nn,

loumac and the busquehana: of these I shall speak hereafter

Axost of the uihahitants are P.esbyterians. The Q.u^ s ;ro no so numerous as at Philadelphia/ I'he court of j HcT tl o cu torn-house, and the guildhall, are fine and well"' Served l^^oT'/T 1 ^"'j^'^^'^;'"-' *'-•- -- «" I-spital and poo -louse

S Vp,?^'*^ P'"'^>PaI commercial houses in Jialtimore are nnnnl '^"^'^^^T' enterprisu.or, economical, and industrious poop e, carry with them the love of labour and the arts. S^auier a.e .eceivedherevvuh a politeness unco.nmon in the United S Se

Federal Citv"?'"r ^f' ^''I f ^'^''^""^'•^' ^ ''' -'^ ^"^ X erieral e.ity, at which I arrived the same day. I'he lands ir.. of

ai; "Sir;!**""''^' ""' ^'^^-^'"^-^^ "•• ^'-^ ^-^ ^- -to-Se^f A J.1 r''' ''u" "'"'"''">' "* *^^^'" '"''"ti"'"",? their names. A??.orable to the report of the surveyors, who were appointed > I le Lougress to examine what position otf-ered most advanta-rc, kr 1,0 erection «>t a city, ,t was deteruiined, in 17<jO, to build it on the liver Potowmac, which divides Ma-'yland from Vh^inia! ofthTv 'a ''',V ^^"7'^f :^ "'i*-'' J'^'d authorised the establishment ot the lederal City, had also voted considerable sums for the erecon of the different l,uihlh,gs. The palace of the Con;,Mess was l">SUn on a most uiagnificMit plan; but the expen<:es icnnired «ere so large, that it remains nnliuished. That of ihr presulonf ys well as those of the diff.-reiit chiefs of the governnu'ut, were' JO be complet.,1 against the fust of .h.uuaiy 1800, at wlrrh time the assembly of the Congress was to be hehl tor the iii'st Ume in the l-edeia! City,

It would require a volume to relate the extravagant speculitu.us to which this new estahlisjunrnt has uivcn rise. 'J'|„. nchest individuals, imagining that people would tlock V> it fro.n ull parts, bou;;htthe lands at a hisih price, in hopes of selling them agani at a still higher, or of building houses to let; but how have 'iH-v Inrn deceived! 'I'I.e l-edeiul City, built on a too extensive plan, will not l<.r many \eais vieldanv reconipence to speciilutois I he I olownuK- falls into ilu- bay of Cliesiqieak. The harbour formed by iiisg.»o(|, iiiul ships of all sizes can navigate it at all seasons. '|'|,e plan of llir , ity would have been superb, if "it could have been executed; bul «verv thing indicates tliat niai;y a,?es will elapse before this pt,i„t can be attained. The palace rri tuc CuiiKjrrs, ha>. at piesdit uiiK one wiui- built, and it appears iliey do not niiend to complete it. 'I'lu.t of the president, which iH dii.tant above a mile, is tiiiishul ; but the elegant street which t()ininunicate« tVum one to the other, eoiitaius onlv u few houses. DL LAC.J U

' )¥l

iM

ft

I

I

I

g^ DU tAC*S tRAVELS.

the formation of a canal, by means "^^.^'^^^p'^^^^^^ city does chains of rocks that render .t ''"P'^«, f ^; f'^^^"^^ active not contain above 8000 persons, «"d b«y ^a^e been in building rfiau in most other maritime paits o.

^*^' , •♦» tr^ »ltP nalace of the Congress would be.

The p ace opposite to the pa ace oi uic » ^

kno^v^vith uhat prudence, what courage, and, above aU, with

wasbefo'ie the establishment of the l^ederal C^'« jT i Plei

onlv divided by a creek, a >'«'y ^^-^'^^^^ P'^'J^^ic ^ It. ,nntlv situated on the eastern branch of the I'otowmac. us Cbou t^^^^^^ and capable of receiving merchantmen of all Sens. Its population does not exceed two thousand.

The debate which has so long occupied the attention of the CoT It -md which continued during my ^e^^^^^^^ t ^t« .,tf.i..tHd the attention of every person in the United States.

!? i-'fi:;;:;^tSy attached ji ^^^^^^^z^

maint«i.u>d that they could not ^«P;;«^ ^^^ "^ ^t L^mrem; Cousrross which, by v rtue of its right, had appomted a suprem S;:i to exann'ue' the acts of the different r-J-e-^ ^ sdVtv of the republic, and the resp«ct due to its laws. I He Ut nloc H s u the'other'hand, -amruud. that the tr.buna nuis on y calculated to produce troubles; that its suppressio a not contrarv to .l.e^onstitutiou. Both parties a^guc-d wiUi thu tluisia.u. which iHUty spirit never fails to luspire. 1 he pa. t./ans ol dtinocraov, Tike th.)s, in i ranre, are geueraiiy ir.^^^i. uu-.J^.. to gitu-ir speculation., and unwilling to bear any ""P^-^^" ^^ c en of the laws. They are particularly inhabitants of tie Southern States, who, being accustomed from their infuncy to

n

PUBLIC CHARACTER OF MR. JEFFERSON.

27

n

rule over slaves, to whom a look is a command, display in all their actions tfais domineering character, which being restrained by the laws, occasions them to be regarded as abusive and tyrannical.

The democrats have raised Mr. Jefferson to the otfice of president in the United States, aini to them he remains firmly attached. It is certain that he performed some services during the war; that he possesses an accurate judgment, and political talents ; but it is equally true, that he is blinded by an excessive self-love, which makes him sacrifice every thmg to his own opinion. Jealous of maintaining his authority, he has dismissed illustrious and irreproachable men from their appointments, solely because they were given to them by Mr. Adams, his competitor and rival. Those who have obtained them are for the most part foreigners, whose only merit consi^cd in favourmg democracy. Without being anxious to render his country respectable in the sight of foreign nations, he only wislies it to be agricultural, without commerce or political stability. Popular even to meanness, he has taken off some taxes imposed by his predecessor for the support of toe army, which he has reduced to '2000 men; and the navy is in such a miserable condition that it can scarcely defend the commerce from the Barbary powers. The public papers aie filled daily with complaints of the merchants, who, without any hopes of satisfaction, experience considerable losses. The populace, intoxicated at a small expence, bless the man who has taken off the tax from strong liquors distilled in ttie interior. Drunkenness is a vice so common among this class of men, that »t would have been better if he had tripled the tax lastead of repealing ic. Mr. Jefferson is the author of a work on the Statistics of Virginia ; but his merit is not greater as an author tiian as the president of the United States.

ITie Congress fixes the taxes to aiiiwer the wants of the republic, it proposes laws, or examines those proposed by the executive power ; but before any law can be put in torce, it must b* ;>res«;nted to the Senate, which either approves or rcjecJb it. The Senate is a su|)orior autl'.ority interposed bi'twoeu the legislative and executive powers. I'lach province returns two members, who must not be less than forty years of age. Ihe law requires iiothing more ; but those who obtain the votes are generally men illuHirutus by their superior acquirenunis, their great fortunes, or the st'ivices they htive performed. Tlicre nre yet in the Sniale many members of the Congress, who |)rocluiined, in 177'), the indcpcuiltiiee of the United States, and sonu; generals who LUiiiiiiaiitiiui uiili diUinctioii in iho war wiiich {oliowed.

A Her having lemained in the IVderal City a suffi<itnt time to be convinced that piivat' inteie>it is the gr« at stimulus ot huiuau

it i

es

DU LAC S TRAVELS.

i:

W

i »:

actions, that the favour of the great triumphs over real merit, and that men who have embraced a party are deaf to the voice of reason ; 1 proceeded to the country seat of Washington.

It was in this place that he passed the latter years of his life, and where he was pleased to reflect on the great interests of a country whose independence he had fought for and established. Mount Yernon would have merited no attention, had it not belonged to Washington. The prospect which commands the Potowniac would have been very delightful if the plain were not sandy, and almost uncultivated. The house is large, but without external or internal ornaments; the gardens are well laid out. The library, selected by this great man, contains interesting and useful books. The cultivator, the philosopher, and the statesinan are certain of finding here agreeable companions. The I'rench authors whom Washington seems to have most admired, are IJutVon and INlontesquieu. The notes which he made oii those celebrated works, and which Mrs. \\'ashington permitted me to read, prove that his skill anil discejument equalled his civil and military virtues.

After remaining two days with this respectable family, I embarked in a packet-boat for Baltimore, where I arrived the same evening, and the next day proceeded with some foreigners, as curious as myself, to view the establishment of Moravian brethren at B'ithlehein. This little town is twenty-eight miles from PhiUalt'.j,hia. The Moravian brethren possess all the surrounding lands for more than two miles. There is only one inn, where strangers are received and well treated at a moderate expence. This little place, which more resembles a convent than a town, contains about eight hundred hihabitants. I'lie mildness of their manners, and tlu; regularity of their lives, are perhaps the most remarkable peculiarities of this sect.

On the day of our arrival we visited the convent, which is superintended by the most respectable women ot the sect. The buildings are large anti well distributed. Young ladies of all religions are educated there. Their employment consists in ne»'dle-work, also nuisic, drawing, embroidery, the study of history and religion. One of tlu; mistresses presented to us purses, portfolios, and baskets. We purchased some, and were mformeil that the profits were employed in charitable works. My limits will not perniit me to detail the rt ligious principles of the Moravian brethren; but I refer the ciuious to the work of M. De Jiiancourt. Like llie Quakers, ihey enjoy a well deserved reputation for probity and \iilue. 'I'hey are good agriculturists a A liijiicit iiiLrcuanti, aiul i.:\iciiu lIiLii huiiiUMity iu pcrauus of ill ii-ligions.

;

>

[ «9 ]

,1

■■nj

CHAP. V.

J|«n|

'

>

CHARACTETl,MANNERS, AND CUSTOMS OF THE AMEHICANS IN THE MARITIME PROVINCES.—AMERICAN WOMEN.

X COULD not leave t'jis part of the continent, without men* tioning the manutrs, customs, and character of the inhabitants. The maritime cities, which are the rendezvous of all nations, have adopted the Cnglish customs. Their w;mts are increased with their fortunes ; luxury has been introduced, and the fine arts, although in their infancy, are nuuh more cultivated than in the interior, where they are scarcely thought of. Employed entirely in mercantile speculations, they pr isess all the qualities and defects which characterise the merchant. They are lab ions, active, industrious, and enterprising. When they deal with each other, they do it with suspicion and distrust. Each is conscious that the other will cheat him if he is able; and that no moral considerations will be suffered to stand in his way. If an honest and ingenuous foreigner has any intercouse with them, he is sure to be made a dupe, and the wily American only laughs at the integrity which he ought to reverence. In the late troubles in St. Domingo, many of the planters entrusted their money, their jewels, and valuables, to American merchants and captains, ■\\ho fraudulently appropriated them to themselves; and at least nineteen twentieths of these unfortunate persons had reason to execrate their perfidy.

The same suspicion which characterises their dealings \s'ith each other, is seen in their domestic concerns. They will not trust even their children or their wives. The men go to market themselves, and purchase every thing tlrat is wanted ; and nothing is left to the wife but the interior order and neatness of the house. Economical even to meamiess, they only make tuse of their fortunes to procure wine and spirits. A segar, a gazette, and a bottle of Madeira wine are their only comforts. The Americans spend great part of the day in reading the puhli.: papers, of which there arc inmiense numbers. They believe themselves the greatest warriors iu the world, solely because iluy have obliged some savage nations to .sue lor peace.

The AnifT'caiis are litigious and qu'irrelsomc. Tlie cool lijauner in which they delcud ihtir causes cumiot but amuse a

(*,'

'( f

so

DU LAC S TRAVELS.

foreignor. In ihe most important suits you will never see the speaker move his head or his hands, or make the least inflexion of his voice, which may discover him more animated at one time than another. If he is cast, without anger lie refers the matter to another court; until he has exhausted nil the means of appeal. Their political dissensions assume every day a more violent character.

The Americans are not generally attached to their relations, to whom they seldom afford any assistance. It is not extraordinary to see the brother of a man of fortune in the greatest distress. Their love is always strongest for their youngest child, and disappears when he reaches his twelfth year. When he is removed from school, enough has been done for him ; he must then o and provide for himself how and where he is able.

This want of concern originates in the law which deprives the parents of all authority over their daughters at fifteen, and their sons at tw enty. Nature wishes us not to be too strongly attached to those objects which are soon to escape us, and to whose happiness we cannot directly contribute. Among all animals she has proportioned the cares of the parent to the wants of the offspring, and has ordained that the attachment of the former shall only cease when the latter do not require assistancf. The savage nations observe this law, who foiget their children, and are forgotten by them as soon as they are able to procure food and clothing by their arrows.

Such is the general character of the inhabitants of the coasts of the United States, which gains them few friends among strangers, or those that trade with them. There is a great consumption of tea, which is served up four or iivo hours after dinner. The Americans eat their meat boiled or roasted, a^id follow, in every respect, the English manners.

Kvery day convinced me that the women have fewer faults and more virtues than tlie men. Balls, plays, promenades, and the toilet, entirely occupy their attention. If a young man becomes captivated with a lady, befoie he thinks of marrying her, he must provide her with every j)leasure, and be accessary to all her whims. Certain that their pleiiMues will terminate on the day of their marriage, they defer it as long as possible, and only yield to the solicitrjtions of their lovers when they are in dread of losing them. I have heard several American ladies answer, to the most sincere deriarations of affection, and to most idvantageous proposals of marriage, that they had not yet had time to know the world and its annisemenls; and that they would not retire wi'liout 'iuvnjg ciijoyed tlieni.

The youjig people are i\vo when single, l>nt slaves when mairied. l.iitiiely employed in domestic allairs, they only

ci hi

di b: tl

c

a o fa

:

AMERICAN WOMEN.

31

go out to visit their relations, or to church. With the most couciliatiug serenity they endure the mortification and disgust of a husband, who is 'generally morose, and often drunk.

The expences of the women are very limited. If any extraordinary luxury is displayed in their houses, it is to satisfy their husbands, who often only preserve their credit by dazzling the eyes of

tlie public. , , • LM , 1

The American women always suckle their own children, and can hardly conceive it possible how a mother should abandon to a stranger so essential a part of her duty. Female beauty is here of short duration. There are few countries where the women have worse teeth than in the United States.

CHAP. VI.

DEPARTURE FOR LOUISIANA.—LAN CASTER.—ASSEMBLY

OF THE STATES OF PENNSYLVANIA.—HARRISBURG.

SUSQUEHANA.—CARLISLE.—MOUNTAINS OF KITUCKTUNY AND SEDLING.—BEDFORD.—ALLEGANY MOUNTAINS.—GREEN SBURGII. PITTSBURGH.—RIVERS ALLEGANY AND MONONGAHELA.—COAL-PITS.—INHABITANTS BEYOND VIRGINIA AND THE WESTERN STATES. COL. BROWN.—CHELLICOTHEE SALT-SPRINGS.

In the latter end of February I departed from Philadelphia for Louisiana. The winter, which had been very mild this year, had prepared an active vegitation, and the fields had already assumed their verdure. As we had to pass through the greatest breadth of Pennsylvania, that is, from east to west, we took the stage for Lancaster. The country that I pass.^d was superior to any that I had before seen in the United States. Ihe lands in the environs of Philadelphia are sandy and poor, but better according to their distance ; and the county of Lancaster presents to travellers one of the sources of this opulence, of which the Americans arc so proud. The la. m-houses are near each other, and well built. Fheir exterior announces abundance, and the interior displays the most complete ease without luxury, ihe Germans, who inhabitthem, ar(> economical, industrious, andgood labourers. T ey are accoimted the best farmers in the United States, and although far inferior to the English, or even French, in husbandry, may be ilesurvcdly styled the fathers of tins art m

America. • , ^ ,

'I'he States are obliged, on account of the great numbers of

German mhabUitUls, to puunsw uiu .a-.v= a.. . .£

the two languages. Notwithstanding the numerous schools, to which tathers are •bliged to send their children to be mstructed

'Vl

''#1

> 11

r.^J

S2

BU LAC S TRAVELS.

r

li

;:■ .

i!'

Mi '1? If.

to the national language, Ihe greatest part do not understand

sufficient English to be able to conduct their business with those

that speak it. Brought up in the bosom of their families, and

employed from their infancy in labour and agriculttue, they are

not anxious for public employments, for which they know them*

selves unqualified. They prefer an active, laborious, and retired

life to distinctions and dignities. If the Germans have not adopted

the language of the Anglo-Americans, neither have they been

infected wuh their vires. The only one they have in common

\vith them is drunkenness, which tliey do not carry to the same

excess. They are neither quarrelsome nor distrustful.

On the day of our departure fi oui Philadelphia, we arrived at Lancaster to dinner, although this town is more than sixty-six miles distant. The trade of this country being very considerable, and carried on by land, the States have constructed a road, which is regularly kept in repair, at the expence of tru« vellers. There are five bars, at each of which a trifling sum is demanded. Provisions of all sorts are conveyed to Philadelphia in waggons for consumption or exportation. Lancaster is the market of Philadelphia, and the greatest part of the southern provinces. It is well built, and capable of containing six thousand persons. The assembly of the State* have for some timemet at this town, being the most central. The inhabitants are, lor the most part, Germans and Dutch, and profess the reformed religion. The Roman Catliolics are also in great numbers.

Four great streets, ornamented w ith footw ays, compose almost the wliole of the town. Those which are not vet paved, scarcely permit carriages to pass through them. The States have determined to do this repair, so nccessaiy to commerce, by means of four lotteries, which arc to be drawn every year until the work is completed.

I'lie day after my arrival 1 was present at the assembly of the States. By the polit( ness of some of the members, I was admitted into the hall, where the door-keeper presented me a chair. I observed that petitions are presented to the president. Having rt id them, he communicates them to the assembly, who order them, if proper, a second and tliird reacJing; or they are referred to :t committee appointed to make a report.

The senate is an authority interposed between the governor of the state, and the assembly of the u presentatives of the people; it is composed of a number of members equal to one-fourth of the representatives.

Eat^i representative, or senator, sits upon a wooden chair, and Las before iiini a lillie ta.iie, on which he plices his papers ; but in"-iy, instead of using it for this purpose, sit upon it, and nev«r tiiango their postiu e, unless addressing the president; fyr, by

i

}

>

MANUtACTOKita ii. LAI^CASTETI.

■V

33

the kws, they are obhged to stand up, and speak uncovered. All the members, when thirsty, go indiscriminately to drnik out of a jug which stands jn a recess in the hall, and which the servant keeps constantly tilled with water. About ten years a^o not more than one or two glasses were to be found in the richest Iiouses ni America, however numerous the company might be. liven to tins day, in most taverns, every one is obliged to drink m his turn, under pain of being thought unpolite.

Tliere are at Lancaster men of all trades, and it is probable that coBsiderable manufactories will soon be estfiblished. Ihe rivers which intersect this country present to speculators means certain of success. On these small rivers live mills are built, which supply the markets of Philadelphia with flour at all seasons. There are some mills, contaimng six mill-stones, to xvliich hve men are sufficient. By a mill of this kind, one hundred barrels of flour will be prepared in twenty-four hours, for which the cultivators receive, besides other necessaries, monev, which tliey employ in *he improvement of their lands. At some distance from Lancaster, a numerous and wealthy company has been formed to promote the culture of the vine in the state of r'ennsylvania.

Among the diff'erent manufactories at Lancaster, is one for nfles, which the inhabitants of the Western countries, and also many Indian naUons, employ for hunting. It is to these arms tJiat the Americans owe many of the victories which they obUiuved during the wa*

After liaving remained three days at Lancaster, I continued the road to Harrisburg, which is distant forty miles. The adjacent land is good, aiid well cultivated; and the houses, although distant from each other, announce the opulence of thtir inhabitants. They are built of large pieces of wood, carefully made squure, and the interstices filled up with stones and mortar. The proprietor consoles himself for the Want of their solidity by the facility and small expence of rebuilding them. Klizabethtovvn, tigliteen miles from J.anca;;ter, and Middletown, which is ahttle fcirther, are two small villages, badly situated, and badly built. The river Siisquehana, which ifi near Middletown, recompensed us in some measure for the unpleasantness of the road, 'Vbe left bank presents a fine and rich phnii well cultivated and populous. That on the right is bordered by hills, ornamented with magnificent forests, which supply Maryland with its flnest timber. Although the Su^quehana is only navigable in summer, yi the neighbouring countries carry on an extensive trade with

iillhlW.iiVC

I.

.'I

■,ii

I , 1

34 T>U LAC S TRAVELS

Hariisburg k a small town situated oflf tlip left bank of the Susquehana. A market-place, supported by columns, forms its centre. Tiie houses which surround it are built of brick. The court of justice is a large an'' elegantly constructed building; and the churches rival those of the chief towns in the United States.

It contains fourteen himdred inhabitants; one half of whom are Germans, and the other Americans, who have emigrated from the Northern States. Notwithstandhig the pleasure that I received in viewing its environs, I was obliged to leave it the day after my arrival; for the only public conveyance, able to be procured, is the mail-coach, which only goes through it once a-week during bad weather. ,

Carlisle is only eighteen miles distant from Harrisburg. arrived in it in a few hours, without having seen any thing worthy Ipf notice on the road. It is, in my opinion, the most unpleasant town in the United States. Being built on a dry and unequal ground, surrounded with forests of pines, 1 endeavoured to discover what could attract the first inhabitants to settle there. 1 was informed that diis place had been chosen during the war for the hefjtd-qnarters of the American troops, and that the desire of gain had first attracted sutlers and speculators. It contains some churches, a court of justice, and small barracks, which are falling to decay. The water is hard, and of a bad qualify. T|je weather since I left Philadelphia had been mild and agreeable; but the day previous to my departure from Carlisle, it was extremely cold; and during the night there was so great a fall of snow, that the conductors of the mail-coach judged it imprudent to proceed. Having provided myself wiUi a horse and guide, I proceeded to Shippensburg, thirty miles iVom Carlisle. It is easy to believe, that the cpuntry covered with snow could not appear very fine. The forests of pines along the roads, proves the barrenness of the lands. The north-west wind, which blew with uncommon violence, was so cold, that I rather endeavoured to shelter myself than to observe the country. There vyei^ scarce ten houges in the thirty miles. Fatigued and benumbed with cold, we arrived at Shippensburgh, which the inhabitants honour with the name of a town, but which cannot be considered more than a village. There are no public buildings ; and the inhabitants seetp to possess those rustic manners which characterise the people in the vicinity of the mountains.

■ 'Hirough their incivility I was obliged to proceed on foot. Th(? rxv,jssive price of hordes, v.hich they proportion to the wants of travellers, and the opinions they entertain that Frei^chmen wiL|> purchase ease at any rate, engaged theii. not lo diminish hi their /demands. I therefore determined to accompany Vae waggons

Singular mode of building.

*i5

destined for Pittsburgh; so ilrat, in case of fatigue or accident, 1 might be provided witli a resource.

1 set out the next day, and arrived ir . few houfs at Strasburgb, ^'here I found carriages waiting for milder weather to cross the mountains. The village of Strasbuigh t^iglit years ago contained billy three houses; at present, at least fifty. It is situated at the foot of the Kitucktuny mouiitains, and exactly divides the if'oad from 1 ..iladelpliia to Pittsburgh. Mthough the cold weather continued, the waggons set out the day after my arrival, and t proceeded w ith them. The quantity of snow collected in some parts of the mountains obliged the waggoners to make a passage \vith pick-axes. We crossed very slowly the Kitucktuny mountains, the first of which is most rugged. The vallies are every where inhabited, and the lands are carefully cultivated. The number of waggotis which pass this road ensures to the cultivator a sale for his provisions at an advantageous price, or in exchange for other articles.

In five days J. reached Bedford, a pretty town, which contains seven or eight hundred inhabitants, most of whom are merchants, or proprietors of land, which they sell to the Irish and Gcrmansy %vho, having arrived iti the United States without means of subsistence, have been obliged to p:^y for their passage by some years of Jabour*. At the end of their service they buy land in the distant countries, at a low price, imd form, by their int^ustry, considerable establishments. The mountains of Alleghany, which we were two whole days in crossing, are the most lofty in Norili America; but they are hills, when compared to the Alps and Pyrennees. Jtjs in these mountains that the fine river, which bears this name, derives its source. At J^ittsbuigh, it unites with the Monongahela, to form the Ohio. On the opposite side of these mountains, 1 saw, for the first time, maple sugar ; of which I shall speak hereafter.

From Bedford to Green.burgh nothing appeared worthy of notice. On botli sides of llie road tstablislin)euts are forming,. aniHlipuscs building. The houses are constructed entirely of wood; the doors are liims.^ on woo-ien hinges; in a word, tlie builders neither employ earth, iron, nor tiloue, net even for tho chimney, which lasts for many years, with only the precailtiori

* This is one of tlie niott considcniMe trades in the United St:\t?s. When H captain arrives viih a cargo in Irtlau'^, ur any uilrer part, he »>!nounccs tiiat he intendy tn take on board a certain number of pas'^engor'?, rind carry them to Arricrici, tor a sripuli:te.i sum. Tlio*e who caynut pay for their passape ai^ree oiherwi-e witli Inin. He hupplies them with necessaries di.rini; tticir })a5t-:;ij!;e, and on his arrival, sells their laiiour. Th^ ieustli of this shivery never e\ceeds two years fnr a single innn^ and four with a fiiiniiy. Ar the expiration of ihi/timc, he is free, and becomes a

KllUCU,

fi2

1

>^'i

'L

36

DU LACS THAVeLS,

Wffi.;';,

If ,l

si

of nrtt lettinp; the fire reRcli the enormous pieces of wood, df which ifis coriposed. The expence of buildnig these houses is a dinner, to v\hich the proprietor invites all his neighbours.

The greatest part of the inhabitants in tlie back settlements of America have no opportunity of exercising their religion. They are so ignorant and superstitious, that they deliver themselves u}> to any extravagance when new doctrines are preached to them. A few years since, some Methodists havijig passed through Pennsylvania, made so many proselytes, that the government, dreading the consequences, desired them to desist. Men and women abandoned their homes and their children, to follow these fanatics, who preached in the rields and forests. Their extravagances exceeded those which I have before related.

Greensburgh, at which I arrived in nine days after my departure from Shippensburgh, is situated on a hill. This place, whose name was hardly known tM'enty years ago, is at present th» seat of a tribunal, and the chief town of a rich county. The houses are built of stone and brick. The interior of the town is almost entirely inhabited by Americans who have emigrated from the Northern States, and Germans. Gram and salt provisions are sent from hence to Pittsburgh, by a small river, which falls into the Allegany.

From Greensburgh I proceeded to Pittsburgh, an ancient French possession, known by the name of Fort Duquesne. It was included in the cession of Canada, and given to the English, who, after the war, restored it to the United States, of which it is at present one of the most important places. The rivers Alleghany and Monongahela meet there, and form the Ohio. At the point of their union Fc . Duquesne was built, of which some vestiges still remain. The town contains 3500 inhabitants, all either merchants or artificers. The commerce in grain is very extensive, and the number of emigrants who come to embark tor Kentucky prove a considerable source of wealth.

Fish and game are very plentiful at Pittsburgh, and provisions of all kinds are sold at a low price. Madeira wine, and French brandies are the only articles which are dear. JNIost of the inhabitants d'slil from rye, or maize, a strong liquor, which they call whisky. This liquor is the most disagreeable I have <;ver tasted : however moderate its use, it acts powerfully on the iitrvous .system. Grog, vhich is nothing more tluin a nii.Murc of this liqr.or with water, is the favourite drink of this people. It is not uncommon to see men so debilitated, as not to preserve their faculties at an age when tiiey ought to enjoy them in their most perfect vigour.

!

COritSE OF THE OHld.

S7

The conl-plts are mmicrous and al)niidant in the environs of Pitt'iburgli, and llic coal is of siich a good quality, that the inhabitants burn it in preference to wood, which is considerably cljcapor. The small hordes of Indians who live near this town, supply it with goats and young bears, whose flesli is delicate and tender, in exchange for spirits, iron ware, and gun-powder. I remained here eight di.y.s, which I employed in hunting and tishing. The game niost frequent in the neighbouring hills consists in partridges, pheasants, grouse, hares, and squirrels. The fish cauglit in the Ohio are the dab, which weighs from 60 to 80lbs ; perch and tench. The lands near Pittsburgh, although inferior to those of Cireensburgh, are sold at a high price.

Jiieing recovered from my fatigue, T proposed to continue my journey, and embarked in a flat-bottomed boat, whose indifferent construction would only agree with a stream as tranquil as the Ohio. I had here occasion to observe the dift'erence which exists between the farniers of Europe and those of the United States. The European, attached to the country which five him birth, changes his situation with regret; the American, three or four days before his departure, informs his family that he intends to remove one, and sometimes .six hundred miles. Twenty carriages would hardly suffice for the former; two horses are sufficient to transport the baggage of the latter. The sale of the lands which they leave produces the sum required to purchase others. For some years the emigration from the Northern provinces to Kentucky have been so considerable, that it at present contains four hundred thousand inhabitants. The proprietor of the boat was an old man, upwards of s^^^enty. His third wife, whom he was bringing with him, was an Irish woman, brought up from her infancy in the United States. He told me, that he had changed his residence eight times ; that he had now determined to remove from the mountains of Monongahela to Saint Charles, near the Missouri, where one of his sors resided. Many passen'^ers told n^e that they were going to Kentucky, because New Englatid, where they resided, began to be too p()pulo;kS : they also said, that if the hind were not agreeaL' to them, they would go to Louisiana. I think this fondness for change is owing to the retired life which they lead.

The Ohio flows from Iv.ist to Wost S. West; it traverses :; distuice of l;30,wMts. Tlie boats which the Americans empby are constructed of planks of iir, rudely nailed together. They aie covered in a minner to prevent the injuries of the weather. The numerous habitations which I saw during the early part of my voyage, conhrmcd the ideas that I had formed of this agree

i'A

i|

::l)

1^,

ii$

nU LAo's TRAVELS*

1^

! 1

!

I

i

able river, whose banks, ten years ago, were constautly desolated by the incursions of the savages.

The first phice of any importance below Pittsbtirch, is Weel-» ing, which is distant 100 miles. This little town forms part of the State of Virginia, and does not contain ab' ve sixty houses ancj three lumdred and fifty inhabitants. One hundred miles beloav Wheeling is Marieta, u town newly built, which contains above' six hundred inhabitants, most of whom are emigrants'from New England and Massachuset. There is a cotirt of justice and a church, in which the inhabitants from a great distance assemble*' At a little distance from Marieta is a fine island, sufficiently elevated to be secure from inundations, where an Englishman, of an advanced age, probably disgusted with the noise and bustfe of life, has built a large and commodious house. CaUipolis, which contains one hundred and sixty inhabitants, is situated on the right bank of the Ohio. The numerous morasses which surround it, render if disagreeable in winter, and unhealthy in summer. The inhabitants are tlie only remains of six hundred families, who left Fiance in 1790, l7f)l/to form new settlements on the Scioto. On their arrival in the United States, they discovered that the company which had sold them the lands were only .sharpers. They applied in vain to the government for redress ; the little knowledge which they possessed of tiie language and customs prevented them obtaining it. They found themselves 2000 leagues from their native country, without any means of subsistence, rxcept by their industry. Lodged, or rathe? heaped in huts built for their reception, many periihed during the first year. Those to whom any resources were left, employed them to depart; th« others renuiined patiently on ft portion of bread and salt provisions, which was granted to them daily by the Congress. At last, after foui- years of misery, they gave to them a piece of ground, «ixty miles below CaUipolis, which being divided among them, produced two lumdred and seventeen acres for each. Such were the eniis(-quences of this famous emigration, which n.any men of high rank had encouraged by their example.

The inhabitants of the parts behind Virginia, are unlike any hi the world. 'I'liey live in houses which a single man can build in three days. "^Ihey do not cles:r the lands, but content thcmnelves with tapping those trees which arc on the spot they iiileuft to cultivate. This operation consists in making a circular notch, of al)out an inch in depth, around the tri.'e, Mhich o( easioiM it to wither. The mai/e sown nude, the trees so deprivt-d of their leavr.s, ireeive directly the rays of tlu; sun, and grow exceediiuuting Will ior cvcf rctuum liicu ou!y occuputtoii.

wi

/

PUOPENSITV FOB SOUTUDE.

Sd

I have seen whole families entirely naked, and apparently a« contented as those who %ere not in want of any thing.

Maize beaten and mixed with milk is their ordinary food. The meat which the father obtains by the chase is cousunjed in a few days, no one appearing to provide for the future. They employ some of the skins of those animals which they kill for cloathing, and the others they exchange for whisky. They seldom remain in the same situation two years.

But it is most astonishing to see men distinguished by their probity and morality, ieseit^ their equals, and go to live in the woods. I shall, for example, mention Col. Brown. After having rendered essential services to his country during the war, this brave commander, whose private a\id public character was equally irreproachable, travelled into Kentucky, which was t^jen almost uninhabited. Being followed by some hunters, of whom I shall hereafter speak, ho abandoned u'ls lirst residence, and buried himself deeper in the forests. The advantageous accounts which he gave of these fine countries, soun attracted a jnunierons population, He afterwards passed on the Mississippi, and remained in a part of Louisiana, then uninhabited ; but some new neighbours arriving he quitted it, and is now on the Mississippi, at a gn^at distance from its mouth, from whence it is supposed he will shortly remove, gUhough he is of an advanced age.

Great Katihawa, which 1 next visited, is a village of Virginia, and derives its name from the river on vvhi( h it is built. It is the most ancient establishment in this part of the Ohio. At a little distance from the entiance of the river is a field, in which, after a great slaughter of the Indians of those countries, the Antericans buried their dpad, which, from its extent, must have been very numerous.

Chellicothe, about sixty miles of (iaiiipcdis, is one of t\w principal places in the N. VV. Territory. It is built on the left bank of the Scioto, in a fine and rich plain, and the rapid increase of its population, would have placed ii among the most in)poitant cities, if its inhabitants had not bvm destroyed bv malignant fevers.

It contains a court of justice and a IVotestnnt church. The streets arc not paved, but the footways are well prt^scrvod.

Between Chellicgthe and Galiipolis, suit springs are found <ff a goqd quality, and in great ahimdanro. Money being veiy Hiirce, tfadc is carried on by barter.

40

I>U LACS TRAVELS.

CHAP. Vll.

DEPARTURE IROM GALLIPOLIS. —LIMESTONE. CIN'

CINNATI.—FRAN CK FORT. LEXINGTON.—VERSAILLES.

— LOUISVILLE.—FALLS OF TIIK OHIO.— INDIAN HUT.

CREAT CAVE.— FORT MASSAC Wl LK I N SC N V ! LLE.

ENTRY INTO THE M 1 OS ISSI PFl. ^—DANOHRS OF ITS

NAVIGATION. ITS RAPIDITY.— SAINT GENEVIEVE.

CAUSES OF ITS ESTABLISHMENT. CHARACIEK OF

ITS INHARITAHTS.—PiORJAS.—RiiSIDENTS IN SAIxNT GENEVIEVE.

o

'N the 22d. of Apr. I embarked iiva pirogue thirty feet long, and three broad. A pirogue is a surt ot boat made of a hollow tree, which many savage nations employed at the time of the discovery of America. The sycamore «liich grows in these countries to an extraordinary size, is the tree most frequently U'sed. When dried, it i'< extremely light, and useful for no other purpose. Some of these pirogues aie so small, that a mnii, anaccustomed to this manner of navigation, cannot stand npiight in them, without fear of falling; others on the contrary carry besides a number of men, provisions sufficient for u voyage of many months.

Maisville or Li lestone is the first place of any importance bclou (iallipolis, from "liich it is 140 miles distant. Not" withstanding its advantageous situation, it has improved very slowly. It scarcely coutains sixty houses. I'lat-boUomed boats are built here in great numbeis, suid are sent to Nevv Orleans in exchange for grain ami .>^iili provisions.

Cincinnati, KM) miles from Limestone, Is the capital of the stsite of the iMississippi territory. During the long ainl fatal diitpute between the ( nited States and the Indian nations .xhicli only ended in 1797, it was the heud-(|uarter <>t the Amerieans. This town contains about three hundred houses. Slavery, which was not until that time tuleriU( <l in this state, has been authorized by the iaus. The excessive price ot labour htiH been the cause of this innovation, contrary to the constitution of tin" lliiitrd ritatr?, and pariicuinily ol that ot the Mississippi territory. Ciwcinuati id the d< pot of all kinds of m< rehandise necessary

yUANCKfORT AND LEXINGTON.

41

for tlie consumption of the back settlements. 'JTie inhabitants give in exchange the products of their lands, dollars, and skins. These skins arc received in payment by the inhabitants of Baltimore and Philadelphia, and prepared for the consumption of the interior. Fort Washington, which is built at the upper extremity of the town, is the first of the chain of foits which extends as far as the western extremity of the United States.

For a long time 1 had been very desirous of visiting Kentucky ; its rapid increase of population, its immense wealth, and the number of its towns, all excited my curiosity.

Eight miles below Cincinnati, is the mouth »f the river Kentucky. On both banlis are some ill-built cottages. The lands are, however, cultivated with the greatest care : the beauty of the com, die activity of the inhabitants, and the number of waggons—in short, ev«ry tiling contributed to convince tne tbat it merited its reputation.

Franckforl is a small town on the liver Kentucky. Since the establishment of Lexington, its populntion has increased but slowly. It is the depot of grain and salt provisions which are sent to New Orleans. The number of flat-bottomed boats built here, may give an idea of tlie astonishing exportation carried on by this country. Last year they exceeded 350, most of which were capable of carrying 250 barrels of 200 pounds weight each. Besides grain and sail provisions, Kentucky trades in tobacco, cordage, iron, potash, salt petre, gunpowder, and earthen ware. At Fraiickfort the assembly of the states is held. After renniining in this little town, which contains 1100 inhabitants, twenty-four hours, I procectled to Lexington, which Mas distant eleven miles. On my arrival at Lexington, I was not a little surprised to find the liouses as well built as any in the United States. The streets are paved and ornamented, with footways. The shops arc supplied by the merchants of Philadelplfia axijij Baltimore, who receive dollars and skins in exchange for the productions of the country.

During my residence in Kentucky, I visited all the establish* ments in its environx, which contribute to the prosperity of (he country, i was accompanied by an Kni'lishman, a rich and well-informed pmprietor, who foietolil a!i the ditticultie>- to which the cession of J^ouisiana would give rise. He couducicd me to the governor of KciUutkv, with whom 1 had a long conference (Ml the subject. 'I'herc are at l,exiiigt(in joOO iiihabitant9, most of whom are eniigiiuits troni the Northern States. They are in general more hospitable and sociable than in most part.H of America. y\ taste for llic scicmes and tiie fine arts particularly distinguishes them from the iiihabitaiiis of the interior, i'lovisions arc sold at a luw price; clutliitig only is cxpeosive,

t)V UAC] 9

si,*'

it

m

A

|i

'.*

ill

4t

DU LAC S TRAVELS.

Kentucky sends five deputies to the Congress, which, at the rate of 33,000 men for each, gives i(i5,000 citizens. Those who consider that this country twenty years ago formed part of Virginia, and contained only 8000 inhabitants, will be astonished at its population, especially when they remember that it has not preventerJ the increase of the other states, although in less proportion. The village of Versailles, which I passed in my road to Louisville, is pleasantly situated, anr^ the land culti-r vated with care. It is difficult to persuade oneself, that a fewyears ago trees grew where towns are now built; and that the bear and the panther d\\r4t in those tine countries which at present contain so many inhabitants. I'he greatest part ot Kentucky, as well as those countries near the Ohio, experience annually great losses in their harvests from the smiirrels, of which there are prodigious numbers. To encourage the destruction of these animals, the assembly of the different states iia^^ offered a reward for their heads.

Louisville, fifty miles from Lexington, is a pretty little place, contahting from 4 to 500 inhabitant-i. It is built on the banks of the Ohio, on an eminence of more than 100 feet above the level of the river. It is, however, reputed unhealthy, on account of the numerous morasses which surround it. The constition of Kentucky is similar to that of Virginia. Slavery is tolerated, but the slaves are treated with humanity and kindness.

Two miles below Louisville are the falls of the Ohio. They are occasioned by a chain of rocks, which divide the river front one side to the other, and which prevent the passage of vessel^ at low water, At this place I met with some of my companions who were waiting for me.

Trom Louisville, the iiglit bank of the Ohio ».s far as its inoulh belongs to the Indians, and we no longer saw any habitations. The hnid is Hat and subjtct to inundations. After travelling three days, w(; had exhausted all our fresh provisions, (ind wished to find some huntsmen, from whom we might procure p supply. In this we were soon gratified. We entered the fust cottage wc came to, and thiy presented to us a piece of bear and a turkey, for vvhi( li we gave some spirits and bread. 1 shall give an exact description of their cottages.

On six large stakes are placed two poles about ten feet Jong, wliirh support some light wood. j-iUrge pieces of bark, which are joined as reaularly as tiles, preser\(' it from rain; and game bears' skins fixed around it, shelter it from storms. These, |iuts, which are built iu less than an hour, are ornamcntetl

:.. ,!,_, •....„:.,„ ■■'••U . .-»..M j,, I.-o ...wl I C.„i. .!.„

lii tiiC iiuc.;i;i •.tJtll -iiiaji ul;aii'. ii^ ~ iliist iravc.-. i7U'..ii iuu i:it;

|jou-;e« of some of the Judiau:;*, Others contci^l themselves id

'

ACCOUS't t>F tut MISSISSIPPI.

4^

strewing leaves under them, and covering themselves with a buffalo's skin, vvithont being anxious for the morrow.

Twenty-four miles from Louisville is Yellow Bank, and sixty miles lower Red Bank. These two places, situated on the left bank of the Ohio, present nothing remarkable. They seem to liave derived their names from the nature of the soil on which they are built. The original inhabitants were pirates. The large cave, which is distant only 1.30 miles from the moulh of the Ohio, is considered one of the greatest natmal curiosities iu North America. It is about twelve feet above the level of the river, and fronted by cypresses of surprising height, planted as regularly as if they had been disposed by the hands of men. The mouth of the cave is tweniy-live feet high and eighty broad; it keeps gradually diminishing to tlie extremity, which is about 180 feet distant, where the two sides approach each other within six feet. Tlie arch of this vast cavern, viewed by torchlight, has ail enchanting appearance. The crystals on the top reverberate the l.'ght, and dazzle tht; spectator.

We next proceeded to Fort Maissac, which was built by the United .States in 1781, to protect the connnerce of the Ohio from the savages.. The fort is at present entirely destioyed. Ten miles lower is Wilkinsonville, \\here there is another fort. It is the residence of those employed by the cutlom-honse, and is the only one which has maintained a garrisoroi, destined rather lo watch the entry of boats, than to exercise military functions. At this place we provided ourselves with a vessel suitable to the Mississippi, and skilful boatmen; and iu three hours after our departure we arrived at the mouth of the Oliio. Prior to this, our voyage had bttn pleasant and agreeable, but it was now troublesome and dangerous; the Mis^l'^.Mppi being accounted or •)f the most rapid rivers in the world.

The Mississippi, navigabhi to an extent of eii-ht hundred leagues, is iu'lisputably one of the finest rivers hi North America. The numerous rivers which How into it, render its proprieUw the sole possessor of all the connneri e of the North-W rst pint of fhis conlnnnt. Bynnaus of the Ohi >, the inhabitants leceive the products of du; Weslein pro\inee of the I iiited tSlales; l)V the llhnois they procetd to Canada; and bv the Missouri, there is no tlonbt biU that tluiy may penelrate as far as the countries near the I'aeifu Ocean. x • •

It is diflicctit to lU'seribe the rapidity wiih which the Mississippi Hows, when swelled by rain, or the inelling of the snow. It is then so great, that boats have oli»'n descended from Upper i^oUiaiana as laras r^rv. l,T;i;iiir, m sja s-.v?, t,mIvU is .. ^,,c,...'. of l.'JOO iea'j;ues. ll» banks are covered with the trunks uf trees, which being concealed by the water, present continusU

it

'i "I

44

tV LAC*S TRAVEtS*

5*:

danger to navigators. For this reason, captains are obliaiecl i& keep an attentive eye, in order to prevent accidents, which not«^ withstanding their vigilance often occur.

During the six days that we were in ascending the Mississippi to Saint Genevieve, the first establishmi iit of any importance in Upper Louisiana, the men never ceased rowing from morning to night. In the evening, two of the men hghted a fire and cooked the supper, and dinner for the next day. It consisted of a piece of bacon and maize, which tliey call gue. This th- . s .m to prefer above every thing. Their beds are the skins 'ears or buffaloes, in which they wrap themselves in winter, nud on which they lie in summer. They make use of a covering of coarse canvass to prevent the bite of insects.

The village of Saint Genevieve, built on the banks of the Mississippi, experienced in 1782 a terrible inundation, which obliged the inhabitants to retire two miles into the country, and build a new village. Its situation would have been more agreeable and healthy, if the houses, instead of being built at the foot of the hill, had been erected on the hill itself. The village contains three hundred inhabitants, most of whom are families that have come from the left bank, since the limits have been fixed between England and the United States. The right bank of the Mississippi, scarcely known fifty years ago, contains only a few iumtsmen, who have built cottages near the savages with whom they trade ; that on the right is well cultivated and populous. A large village built on the river of the Kaskaskias, the ruins of which only remain, prove that this country, previous to the cession of Canada to the English, contained numerous and opulent inluibitants. The Jesuits had erected an elegant convent, and sent missionaries to propagate their religion among the Indian nations.

But on the conclusion of the treaty in 1763, part of tlie inhabitants returned to France, some went to Lower Louisiana, and others crossed the river, and formed an establishment in an uninliabittd country. This was the first foundation of St. Genevieve. 'J'lie inhabitants of St. Genevieve are entirely addicted to agriculture. Possessors in common of a portion of land, lh<' fe.tility of which is wondtrCni, they sow and reap in a few days their year's subsistence. '] hey obtain lead from the neighbouring mines, with which they procme clothing and other necessaries. Uitliout learning, or the desire of learning, the youth occupy thenise'ves in hunting, riding, and dancing. I'hey live in the grossest igrjorancc, even of those things which relate to th(!ir dearest interests. 'Vlw. children brouu:ht uo anions the savagts, contract tinir manners, and especially then indolence. The Indians that inhabit St. Genevieve, knowu by the uamu of

•

'\

SAVACJE TRIBE OF THE CHAWANONS. 45

Peorias, are the remains of a numerous race, almost extinct by war, small-pox, and especially by the use of spirits. Their clothuig, which formerly consisted of a small apron, mitasses* and moksmesf made of skins, hus b(.en exchanged for a drew ot bue cloth, and mitasses either scarlet or blue. Indolent, drunkards, and thieves, they only hunt in order to procure spirits; the rest of their time they spend in eating, drinking smoakmg, and dancing, I'he women are clothed nearly in the same manner as th<' men: only instead of mitasses, they use a sort of apron, whicu reaches to their knees.

CHAP. viir.

CMAWANONS—HOMAGE PAID TO THE SUPREME BEINGl— TREATMENT OF PRISON EUS.—COQU EXRY OF THE WOMEN.—MARRIAGES.

A HE Chawanons, the most numerous and brave of the savages, are divided into tribes very distant from each other One part ot the nation, and that which is most considerable" inhabits the environs of the lake Mechigan; the other is established in lipper J.onisiana, where two villages are built, known by the names ol the Large and Small Savage Village, the former thirty-six, and the latter forty-eight miles from St. Genevieve. 1 hey only go out to hunt in the (i.rly part of November.

The huge village contains four hundred and fifty inhabitants It IS built on the top of a hill, at the foot of which ilowa thiPomme rivor. Their cottages, v.hich are constructed of posts near to each other, and the spaces filled up with clay, defend tliem from the inclemency of the weather. Active, industrious and good hunters, they obtain without trouble clotluno and trinkets, of which they are very fond. They have aUravs 9. certain number of horses ready at their doors', to pursue'the enemies that come to seize on those that are feeding. They breed cows and pigs, and cultivate maize, pumpkins, melons, potatoes and corn, suflicient for their support the whole .oar. '

They are often engaged in war with the Osagts, a numerous and ferocious nation, whom they never fear, except when surprised in the cliace. At all other times they never refuse them battle, which has so <>»• n terminated in their favour, that they have now ceased to ..arass them. In the last war w Inch the

* A sort ot' pBntnloon (U\ idc(! into two pnrts.

t A sort of M>ck inmle dI »quirrol kkiui, which r«a«hed to th« anclt •lid wu» tasttucd with a pitce at kkiu. '

i

■H

4^

..1;

0 * 1

it

4(r

tiV LAC*S TRAVEtS»

iTftited Indiana waged against the United States, the Chavvanons ^vere particularly distinguished lur their intrepidity

and hatred of »he Americans. .p.

TheChawanons are tall, handsome, and well-made. Ihc >Vomen, although not handsome, are lar preferable to those ot

the surrotinding nations. , , ,• .■ u„„^

The Chawanons, as well as all the other Indian nations^ hav^ an idea of the Suj.reme Being, vvhi.-h they have re^Y.'talZ their ancestors. Twice a year they invoke h.m w » ^ea. n g and dancing. Once at the beginning ot spring, when the g.ain is sown, and also when the maize begins to change colour. They believe the immortality of the soul, and that after deah they will come to life again in another country, whe.e they will be in want of nothing :-that they will then meet their friends and relations; and that those who have been brave wlj be distinguished with the greatest happiness J^"^^"^'^'^^ ""^^ and humane, they treat their prisoners with kindness and compassion. If they have departed from this principle, it was only during their -ar with the Americans, at which time they bui-nod g eat^ur ..rs, after causin.^ them to endure every torture Ihic-h revenge or hatred could suggest Wheii « prisoner , doomed by them to die, he is in general burned. It this bar^ barous ceremony takes place in the v''age, the women prepaie the instruments of his punishment, and erect the stake to v 1 ich the wretched victim is to be affixed. The women, chi d.en, and even warriors load him with injuries and nuicule, and a ter making him pass several times around the village, they comluct him to the stake. They there beat him., and wouiid him with spears and arrows; the women cut his nose, his ears, and his lips. In a word, they all endeavour to make him undergo a thousand deaths, before they entirely destroy him. During all this, how does the victim b. have ? N ot content in braving the punishments, he encourages his enemies to proceed, auglis at the pain they cause him to suffer, relates to them his exploits, {hreatens them with the vengeance of Ins nation, and perishes in the midst of torments, without uttering a sigh.

Of all the savages, the C:iiawanoiis a.e the most attentive to their dres8. Like the other tribes, they cut the cartilages 6f their ears, and lengthen them as nmcli as possible, and .uspend from them silver trinkets in form of stars. I hey wear on their necks large crosses, and on their hea.ls bunds and crown* covered with npangles. They use great quantities ot vernnUon on^ hl«rk. with which thev paint their bodies on lestiye days. "T\^t^^omex^^^•e^r long" hair tied close to their lKmi«, and covered with skin. They are more careful of their children tha-i the other Indian nations.

ft

roURTSHIP AMONG THE CHAWAN0N8.

m

The young women among them, who have any pretensioiw t» beauty, practise a pecuhar kind of coquetry. As soon a» theyarrive at the age of puberty, which commonly happens before they are twelve years of age, they either keep themj^elves quite secluded at home, or iiuifHe themselves up so, that when they go abroad It IS impossible to see any thing but their eyes. On these indi^ cations of beauty they are eagerly sought in marriage, and thoee that have gamed the greatest reputation as warriors or hunters, generally - • ntm the consent of the family. After this the lover repairs to ii.j cabin, where th^eauty is lying closely enveloped on her couch. }Ie gently approaches and uncovers her face so that his person may be seen. If this be to her mind, she gives a smile of approbation, and invites the youth to lie down by her side ; if not, she again conceals her face more closely than before. The lover instantly retires, and no longer thinks of gratifying a passion, which, among this people, is always approved when it is reciprocally felt.

VVhen the nuptial ceremony is ended, the new son-in-law 13 admitted into ilie cabin; but is obliged to engage in the chase for ^e benefit of his father-in-law, till the birth of his first child. He has the power of marrying all his wife's sisters as they airivc at puberty, or of disposing of them to whom he pleases. But the young savage seldom lives lonsf with his first wife. Often before the age of thirty, or thirty-five, he has married and abandoned at least a dozen,

■— I

CHAP. IX.

6AI.NT LOUIS, CAPITAL OF UPl'LR LOUl SI AN A.^C \USKS OF ITS ESTABLISHMENT.—ST. CH A RLES.—FLORl SS ANT. —JUNCTION OF THE MISSOURI AND THE MISSISSIPPI.' —VIDEPOCHE.—COMMERCE IN SKI N S.— DEPARTURE

row UPPER MISSOURI.—ARRIVAL AT THE KANCES.

TRADE.—OTTOTATCES.—GREAT PA N IS.—MAHAS—PON,

CAS. ARRIVAL AT THE WHITE RIVER -CHAGUY-.

ENNES.—DEPARTURE FOR ST. LOUIS,

-r\lTER remaining a few weeks in Saint Genevieve, I proceeded to Saint Louis, which is seventy miles distant, lliis is the niost important town in Upper Louisiana.

Saint Louis, which, both in populaLion and extent, is equal to Saint Cenevieve, ought to b(j considered rather as a little town,^ than a huge villagi;. Hie inhabitanUi, employed in trade 'I'i' *"^^,"'"- ="''^' sf''"^""> oo.iijiy themseiwes iu agricuiiure. J he trade m skins would have rendered this a considerable towQ under any other i,'overument than that of Spain. Instead of

:|:

1

t

4

M

1 «

i4

»?

?

f.'

I'A

4S BU LA€ S TRAVELS.

arlditig to its prosperity, they endeavour even to destroy the sources •f wealth which nature has placed within their power.

Saint Louis, founded on a rock on the hnuks oi t'le Mississippi, and considerably above liie level o»" the riv( r, is a iiijil ly beautiful and salubrious situation : surroanded bv a country of exuberant fertility, it might loiiij since have become tlie s;ranary of Lower Louisiana ; though the indolence of the Spanish colonists hardly produce grain enough for its own consumption. Squirrel-skins are used in place of money. The king alone pays in dollars the expences of the garrison, which dees n()t exceed sixty men, the galley, and the ho-pital. Saint Louis, as well as St. Genevieve, was only inhabited, forty years ago, by liunters. The same circumstances which i»;diiced the inhabitants of Kaskaskias to remove to S^. Genevieve, detevmuied those of Kaokias to go and re-side at Saint Louis. The village of Kaokias, which derives its name from the river passing through it, was deserted by the French that inhabited it at tlie time of its cession to England. The country, to a great distance, has been carefully cultivated by the Americans, who lave bought it at a moderate price.

St. Louis was very vigorously attacked in 17??0, by a numerous party of savages, armed aiid commandt^d by the English. Previous to this there was no kind of fortitication ; but on account of so great a proportion of the uih;ibitants losing their lives, the j^overnment elected a wooden fort en the most elevated part of the town, and planted some large pieces of cannon.

After Saint i^uis and St. Genevieve, Saint Charles is the most itnportant place. It is built on the Missouri, tlnee leagues trmn its month, and was the result of the emigration of some families from St. Louis, who, being hunters by profession, came lo reside thrr(>, in order to be near a countiy the most abu\uiant jn game. But notwithstanding the beauty of its situation, the .-iJubrity of its air, and the richness of its soil, they have not been permitted to enjoy these advantages long. The Americans rame in crowds into the surrounding country, which already contains above four hundred families. '' would have amount

ed to two thousand, if the governme.. ' not placed bounds to tlie progress of emigration, by subjecting strangers to the oath of conformity to the catholic church. St. Charles is surrounded with meadows superior to those of St. Louis; and the lands, which are better cultivated, produce corn, barley, maize, potatoes, in a word, every necessary for man and bea>it. Florissant, which is a village twelve miles farther, was established (vight y( ars ago by some of the inhabitants of St. Louis, wh<) w<jre pailicularly fond of agriculture. From this place the merchants send grain to New Orleans. Fiori-isant would have been more agreeable.

i»Ol»ULATiQN OF VIDEPOCHE.

49

if the original. inhabitants had not sascrificed every thing to the proximity of a stream, which, however, contains water only half the year. They would live in opulence, if they were able to exchange, at a reasonable rate, the productions of their lands for clothing and other necessaries. The cultivation of tobacco, ^vhich the traders are obliged to bringfrom Lower Louisiana and Kentucky, offered to them a resource ; but, like the French peasants, they blindly follow the customs of their ancsstors, and are enemies to all innovation.

The lands bordering the Missouri in this part of Upper Louisiana are fine, rich, and healthy; and the farther we ascend this river, the more these advantages seem united; The junction of the Missouri with the Mississippi is a curiosity which no traveller can pass by without admiration. These two powerful streams, of which the one is always tranquil and limpid, and the other nmddy and turbulent, seem just before their union to dread the approach of each other. Their course, which to a certain distance is entirely opposite, takes an almost perpendicular direction, which continues to the moment of their junction. Then, like a furious enemy, the Missouri rushes on his adversary, which for some time repels him with a tranquil dignity, and permits not their waters to unite; and, except in case of floods after the molting of the snows, the two streams are said to flow for sixty miles without mixing, so that the water may be drunk clear ou one side, and muddy on the other.

^ I hud almost finished the chapter without mentioning Videpoche ; but the omission would have been excusable. Although built in a pleasant situation, and one very well adapted for commerce, the inhabitants possess nothing worthy the observation of a traveller: they display neither industry nor activity; and if they labour, it is only through necessity.

Videpoche contanis two Imndred and fifty inhabitants, not including the slaves, who are to the number of about fifty.

The chief "mmerce of Upper Louisiana is carried on with the savages, wno inhabit the parts contiguous to the Missouri, The principal rendezvous of the Canadian merchants ou the Mississippi are the Dog-fit'-d, which icj distant about five hundred niiles from Saint I^uis, and Saint Peter's River, which is three hundred miles farther. The Sioux who assemble here every year, bring with them skins, for which they receiye in exchange gunpowder, guns, lead, vermilion, and trinkets. Being desirous to be acquainted with the manners of these uncivilized nations, and the mode of their dealings with the Whites, i fitted out a boat, and took on board an old trader of the Illinois river. He had formerly been erapioyeri by the Coinpany of vpper iTiissouri, and had ascendtJ this river farther than any one iu tlie country,

pu lac] c

-'r J

-if'

50

bit iAfc's TRATEl*.

and was tveU acqfuainted with the different dialects of the savages. He informed me of their manners^ customs, and ceremonies.

During his residence in these distant parts, the king of Spain offered rewards lo those traders that would give him the best accou.rt of these then unknown nations. But notwithstanding these, the government have done nothing for the advancement of trade or public information. All these memoire arf: kept in tlib archives, from which I have made some curious ..d interesting extracts.

On the 18th of May, 1802, having received ten men on board, and loaded my boat with every thing required for the savages, viz. woollen clothing, blue and scarlet cloths, guns, gunpowder, lead, vermilion, copper cauldrons, knives, wineii, and silver trinkets, I proceeded on my passage. 'I'he banks of the Missouri, for six miles, contain neither villages nor houses ; but the !. ds appear of an excellent qualify. At 117 miles from the mouth of the Missouri, is seen the river of the Great Os or Osages. Having ascended it 240 miles, we saw two villages, which were the most populous on the south bank. Thirty miles farther we found their old villages, which are now almost entirely destroyed. They Were forced by the Sioux to abandon them, and to retire into the interior.

At a little distance from the old villages, on the opposite bank, is seen the Great River. It is above forty fathoms wide at its mouth, and navigable with boats above 800 miles. We rek/iained here twenty-four houi-s, in order to renew our stock of provisions, which was now nearly exhausted. Two or three miles from the Great Hiver is a place, called by the savages Wachanto (haibour of serpents). J was desirous of knowing whether it deserved the name, and therefore walked with my interpreter to t!ie plat'e. But on this point 1 was in a short time perfectly satisfied. We embarked next morning, and arrived in three day.s at the river of the Kanees. This river is navigable at all seasons to the extent of 500 miles.

The Kanees afe tall, handsome. Vigorous, and brave. They are active and fu( 1 hunters, and trade is carried on with them by the VVhitei; . thout danjior.

When a tradtr arrives at a village belonging to these nations, his first busine<;s is to nuike pr< s-jiits to the chiefs, before he lands his merchandise, lli.- is th( ii permitted to construct his cabin in any part of the viilitge which he pleases, and to open his shop. When the prices of the articles which he brings for .sale are once tixed, no variations whatsoe\er are afterwards j)ermiti(.d. Wlicii a savage enters the trader':, cabin, he lays down the skint! N\hich he has to dispose of, md hxes on the

VALUE OF SKi'NS.

^l

f

>

articles which he prefers. Each skin has a conventional value. What they call a plu, is equal in vahie to a dollar. Thus, two ^oat-skins niake a pla, an otter's skin two phi. As the prices are regulated by the pla, there is never any ditficulty in the traffic.

All tiie persons ol distinction seemed anxious to shew tlieir regard for me. Thrv feasted me by turns; and, according to their customs, offered me their daughters. I accepted those of the great chief, wliom I was afraid of displeasing by a rel'usal, and njiide presents to lac rest. Among the questions which this people put to me was the following: " 7\rp the people pf your country slaves to their wivts like the Whites wil.i whom we trader" Behig fearful of losing my c? lit if [ did not appear superior to the other Whites, I rep'-ed, that they loved their wives without being tiwiir slaves ; an'' that they abandoned iher when they were deficient in their , v. The triHing presents ihat I made to the chief's daughter. •....- led me great reputation for generosity, which in no country c \ be obtained at a cheaper rate.

After remaining here twelve dayd, 1 departed for the mouth of the nv«r Kunees, where we dug a hole, in which we deposited our skius, so that they might not incommode us in our voyage. Tbirty-jfive miles farther we found one of the old villages of the Kanees, a "d twenty-two miles beyond the other. I'hree miles before we arrived at the last village we perceived some iron ore. X intended to have essayed it on my return, but an accident unfortunately happening, prevented me. The savannah of St. Michael commences a little higher up, extending to a great distance into the country, and occupying an extent of twenty -four miles on tiie river. From thence to the Weeping River, (which is one hundred and forty miles distant) nothing is found worthy the attention of a traveller. As 1 proposed visiting the Ototatoes, and afterwards the Great Panis, I left ihe boat, accompanied by my interpreter and Si sailor, and pursued a path along the forest as far as the ri'>'er. The following evening we arrived at the old villages of the Ototatoes. There were scarce any remains ol this nation existing. The Sioux have forced them to retire to the north, nhere they have fixed their residence for imiuy years. We saw some of them, who received us with kindness, and supplied us witli fresh provisions in exchange for trinkets, &.c.

If I way judge of the rest of this nation by those that I saw, they are ugly and ill-fomted. The Plate River, on which tlieir village is built, is nearly «s large as the Missouri; but it is so shallow, and its current so rapio, that it can only be navigated from sipring to the beginning of sumnier. Its sources are in the mountains of Upper Mexico, not far from that of the Santa Ft^. We ouiy remained thijty-six hours wiii) the Ototatoes, and ontinued our voyage on the Plate River ^.j the Great Pauis, where we

MA

i .1

r'

5«

DU LAC S TRAVELS.

arrived in three days. As there was very little water, the sailors ■were obliged to raise up the boat, and haul it thirty or forty fathoms on tfie gravel. We were better received by the Great Panis than we had even been by the Kanees. They were at war with the nation called Republicans, and had only a small number of fire-arms, without any powder. We supplied them with some, in exchange for beavers', wolves', and squirrels' skins. When any one arrives among those nations that are engaged in war, he must be careful not to shew any arms except those he intends to sell, otherwise he \\ill be in danger of having them seized. The Great Panis are not so tall as the Kanees. They are active, and good hunters; and they would kill more game if the Whites came more frequently to trade with them. Their manners very closely resemble those of the Kaneos. I was yresent at the burial of a person of distinction anion;; iheni; but as this ceremony is the same among all the savage nations, i shall defer the account of it for the present. We only remained eight days among the Great Panis. On our return to the Missouri, we landed at the mouth of the Plate River, at a fort built by the company of the Upper Missouri, in the year 1792, We left there some furs, and proceeded on our voyage. Twentysix miles higher up is seen the first river of the Sioux. It is navigable only to a small distance, and derives its source near to the iVIonis, which fl»)ws into the Missisippi.

Ninety miles bev d the fi-st river of the Sioux, seven hundred and thirty-five milt eyond the mcuth of the Missouri, is the Mahas river and villages. This natioi'suflered exceedingly in 1801 by the small-pox. The village is situated in a fine plain, one league from the Missouri. The Mahas have nothing to distinguish them from the other savages. They have few fire-arms, and are therefore obliged to restrain their love of war. vMthough I had no personal motives for compliiint, yet I found xlwm less aftable than the Kanees and the (ireat Panis. We supplied them with iiunpowder, bullets, vermilion, and trinkets, in exchange for some bullaloes' flesh, of which vve salted about three hundred poumU weight.

'J wo days previous to my departure I was present at their preparations for a war expetjition which they were going to make against the Miamis nations. I at« there, for ilie firtit time in my life, do''s flesh, with which tliey always regale them.-itlves on these occasions. jAlthough this food Mas extremely disagrocHbiv to me, 1 was obliged to conunend and praise U. 1 fitquently en«f quired of them the reasons of this custom, but could never obtaii^ jinv thinff AUtiAfyctorv ; thev said that thev derived 'hi' i':istf>.>rfrom their anccstori*, and that, if they onntted it, they would t'm\ if) their undertaking.

)

SINGULAR ADVENTURE.

53

1

Tvrenty miles fron the Mahas River, is the second river of the feioux, and sixty miles farther, the remains of the village Petit-Arc. It was built by a Mahas chief of the same name, who, in consequence of a dispute with some of his tribe, came with his familr and friends, and formed an establishment. These, after his death, tmdmg thfcriselves too weak to resist the Sioux, who came to lay tliem under contribution, joined themselves to this nation, from vvhich they are no longer separated. Three miles below the I'oncas village is the Rapid River, which is at its mouth seventy fathoms wide. It is so rapid and shallow, that it cannot even be navigated by a boat. The Poncas nation, to which I walked from the Running River, contains three hundred and tifty warriors, notMithstandmg the ravages of the small-pox. One of my crew had a pair ot silver ear-rings, on which a young savage appeared to iiave hxed his heart. He offered him "in exchange furs of more than twenty times their value. Rut no otier seemed sufficient, and no importunity could prevail. He waylaid the possessor, shot him in the neck witli an arr()\v, and left him for dead. He stripped off the ear-rings, and proceeded with an air of satisfaction to me, and presented what he had befoie offered for the trinkets, vvhich were then suspended from his ears. As soon as I wa» informed of what had happened, [ hastened to the spot, and found the sailor motionless, and almcist dead ; the arrow still remained m thfe neck. One of the savages extracted it from the wound, on which he laid a plant which he had previously masticated, «nd made snme signs to implore, as he said, the aid of the great Maintou *.

On my return I found the whole ciew under arms, preparing to revenge themselves on the suppo-cd murderer. 1 assured them that the wounded man would recover, and bv this mcims rendered them more. calm. The next dny he was perfectly recovered, and therefore we judged it proper to embark, and ascended the Mi.s8ouri as Hn-as'ihe White River, uhich I had fixed as the b Miudary of my voyage. We liere found a part of the Chuguyenne nation, composed of about one lumdred and twenty men. The greatest part of ihcin having never seen a white man, Jooked at us and our clothing with the greatest astonishment.

At a little distance from the mouth of the White liiver, J perceived a mouMtain, more elevated than ai'y ol tho.se on the banks ci the Missouri. The wcatlur being extremely fine, J took with mc two hunters, my inierpi'-ter, and u )<)ung savage for a guide. VMien we hud ascended it h;df way, the cold l.reame very sensible, and we had brought nothing to defend us from it. My conipa

"C<r to which We alepl during ihc iii((hl.

)!V!ons

u ) ..i.t..^

itif-j a aajjiu I'rc

■ ^

-I

m

m

* At

• 'i he title *'liicli the; givi: to the Ihdy S^iirif.

H

DU lac's travels,

At day-br^ak we continued, and before sun-rise had gained the suinniit. The green which surrounded us, presented the appearance of a cahn sea. Some of my companions having shot a calf and some squirrels, we regaled ourselves on thesn.

I proposed to employ some Unle tiiue in raising a monument, which migiit one day attract the attention of travellers in those distant countries. Fur want of stone I used 'vood, and having eut some cedars, 20 inches in diameter, cleared the trunks, and made them square,- these we hxed in the ground, so that each side was turned towards one of the four cardinal pi)ints. On oiie side 1 engi aved my name, with this inscription, Sdis cognosrendi; on another, those of all my companions ; on another, Deo et Natiirer ; and on the fourth the date of our arrival.

Ou the 26th of August we set out to return to St. Louis; from which we had been absent three months. When we reached the river of the Kanees, and were occupied in taking on board the Ans that we had deposited there, we saw a party of the Sioux approaching ; we therefore immediately reimbarked, leaving some of the least valuable furs behind. We had hardly gained the opposite shore when we were saluted with a disc harge of musquetry; but niglit coming on, the savages abandoned their pursuit.

This was the only art of hostility that we experienced on our return to St. Lonis^ where we arrived on the CJOlh of Sepl« mbcr. It is unnecessary for me to say, tliat after a voyage of four -montlis, during which time I had no other bed but the ground, no oilier drink but water, I required some rest.

CHAR X.

TRADF, OFTIIR KNOLISH IN NORTH AMERICA. TRADE OF

LOUISIANA ON TUi: MISSOURI FURS FlIUMSIIKl) BY

EACH NATION.— ADVANTAGES OF FRANCE OVER ENGLAND IN THE FIJRTRADE. -DIFITCULTIES EX I'Eltl EN CLD BY THE ENGLISH IN REACIUNQ THE MISSISSIPPI.

1 HK countries to the north of the United States, which present to the view of travellerH nothing but immense lakes, urniavigablc rivers, mountains of ice, and tlesirt plains, cov< red the greatest part of the year w itli snow, have opened to th<; Kn<^lish <i greater scnirce i>f wealth thiiu even the mines of Mexico and Peru. Canada, ceded to the English in I7(iy, has assumed a new form. 'J'h(! lands, r\hicli are <:ullivated vt ith cure, rival all others, end lilt- superb rivifb that wat«.T it, brin-; :<" t'ncm, liui'v, nrliCieH of the greatest \uhu:. Sin rounded by savages, aj::unst whose attacks they must alwaju be prepared, the French, only trusting

m

rtJR tRADE OF THE ENGLISH.

u

to dinr own strenjrth, T,ent out from their habitations with fear, and dared not cultivate lands which they were unable to defend. 1 ho English, on the contrary, have oi)tained friends ready to assist them, if required. Encouraged by their successes, they have penetrated tbrther into the country ; not a single stream but IS covered with their boats, not a lake but they have crossed, although some, f. om their extent and depth, may be compared to seas. At present they are still advancing ; every year increases then- trade and their wealtli; and their desires seem to enlarge with their abundance.

After the cession of Canada, a resource still remained to France to enter into a npciition with England in the valuable commerce of furs. Why did the government, badly informed of Its true interests, give up to Spain a colony, expensive to them oii account of its bad administration, but which could not fail one day to be of the greatest importance? The Mississippi, which remained in their power, offered sufficient resources to make up for the sacrifices of \:6:i. But cf.mplaints are vain. What the governmewt then did, was thought most advantageous to the general interest.

Trade is carried on by Ijartcr with the different savage nations, by whom the greatest part of America is at this day inhabited! Since their intercourse with the Whites, their wants have induced them to adopt a more active life. They have thrown off their old clothing to adopt a new ; their bows and arrows have been replaced by guns and rifles ; the juices of plants, with whi(-b they painted their bodies, have been exchanged for colour.s manufactured in Europe; and lastly, the refreshing beverage which preserved th»;ir healths and lives, have given place to stinst>r spirits, which burn and destroy them. The l^iglish, to safisfy tliese new demands, have established depots in many part;; of Canada ; by means of which, the produce of their inanufaclories is circulated in the western and northern parts of North America : to whi< h thf niert hants of Lpper U)uisiuna ^o, at a gre.it expence, to provide themselves with necessaries, in exchange ftfr furs of the fiiirsi tpialily.

'J'he objects of trade are, blue and scarlet cloths, vermilion, guns, balls, gunpowder, copper kettles, knives, black feathers', Jiuls for the ehiefs, silver and tin trinkeU^ ami blue, red, black, and white ribands, which are used exclusively by the women.

Tlnse are all the articles sent by the English, which are sold to the traders of Louisiana, at a high price. The merchants who come from Quebec or Montreal to this dep6t, are subjected to

.■ 7 ,■> J" !f--. J a-j lismr tjxjais ISJUSI UC lOUUCa

and uiiloailed thirty-six times, and carried, us well as the merdmndisc, on the men's shoulders to ditlerent distances. From St. Luuis, the centre of the commerce of Upper Louisiana, to

^ ttr tAC^S TRAYKtS.

Miclulmakina, there is riot, it is true, but one transportation j but each boat, provided with five men, only uries three thousand weight of merchandise, aftd camrot return in less than three or four months. Besides the profit of the merchant, which is 80 or 90 per cent, on the London prices; three thousand weight bears an augmentation equal to the wages and expence of five men for four months.

Some, no doubt, xvill be surprised to hear that five tnen belonging to the boat, after it is cleared, carry it on tlieir shoulder* for many miles : but their astonishment will cease when th«y are informed that these boats are constructed of the bark of the birch tree, strongly joined with rosin, and support«id by slight ribs. These are only employed for the navigation of the lakes and rivers. Some are twenty-five feet long and five broad, and only weigh four hundred pounds.

The nations inhabiting die bank of the Missouri, with whom alone the merchants of Louisiana trade with advantage, are the Osages ; the number of whom able to bear arms are, one thousand two hundred; the Kanees, four hundrrd and fifty; the Repubhcans, three hundred ; the Ototatocs, llu ee hundred and fifty; the Great Panis, five hundred; the Lonps, two hundred ; the Mahas, six hundred ; the Poncas, three hundred ; the Ricaras, one thousand. The Mandannes, Chaguycnnes, and Maniataris partake very little of trnde. They only carry it on by means of other nations, that buy their furs to sell to the Whites.

All these nations united, form a mass of about five thousand hunters, who supply Upper Louisiana in the following proportion: The Osages, eight hundred bundles of squirrel-skins, and one hundred and fifty of fine skins. The Kanees, two hundred squirrel skins, and forty fine ; the Republicans, one hundred and forty, of which ten are fine; the Ototatoes, one hundred and sixty, of which 20 arc fine ; the Great Panis, one hundred and forty, of which 10 are fine; the Loups eighty ; the Mahas, three hundred and ten, of which 40 are fine; the Puncas, seventy, and six fine ; the Paducas, fiftv, and six fine ; and the Ricaras, fifty, almost all fine, and of a Mipcrior qiiality, on account of tlie animals being taken very far north. Thus the commerce with the people of the Missouri nmoui.ts to about'20,000 French livres annual iy.

To the trade of tWf' Mississippi the English can have no claim, since the people with whom they trade pursue their game entirely on llu: ri|>lit bank ; and their rendezvous aie, as before stated, at the JJog-fiehl, and at the mouths of the rivers situated in the territory <»f lAiuisiana. The I'rench nut chants pass from iScvv Orleans in tiat-bottomed boats, whidi are able to reach any part of the Mississippi, w ithout obtaining an advantage of more than ten or twelve ^icr cent, as well on account of the

GOVEBNMr.NT OF LOUISTANA.

57

i

small numbers of men employed, as th^iir not being obliged to be Uuldiided.

Tlie English merchandise, on the contrary, from Quebec to Micliihnukinas, is ip.( reused 2o per cent. From thence to the l)og-t;e!d, it experiences an advance of 7 per cent. The Vviuch then possess an advantage of 20 percent.; and do not employ above twenty-live men to conduct the same quantity, for wliieh the Knglish require ninety.

Besides, the boats employed by the English are small, and mcapable of carrying heavy loads ; therefore, great numbers are retpiired, while those of the French are considerably larger. In the second place, the English require the same time to return as to go, viz, four months ; while the French return from the Doglield to New Orleans in one month.

To render tl)is truth more clear, let us suppose eight thousand A\ eight of merchandise set out from Quebec and New Orleans oil the tirst of ^\ugust : the I'^nglish will require sixteen boats, each with four roweis and a captain. That which left iVew Orleans is embarked in a large boat, which only requires eighty rowers and a captain. The French will arrive in three months, while the English require four and sometimes live.

The nations with whom the English trade on the Mississippi are the Scionx, who furnish them annually with two thousand five hui. Ircd bundles of skins, one fourth of which are of the linest ijuality. The Sues and Renards also furnish about one thousand bundles of squiirel-skins. The Monis to the number of three hundred hunters; the Oyoa, four hundred and fifty; and the Perans, three hmidred ; barter about ei;j;ht hundred bundles, most of which urv. line. These nations, who inhabit the banks of the rivers from which they derive their names, are less ferocious than the Scioux, and trade is carried on with them w ithout danger.

CIIAF. XI.

iTOVFItNMF.NT OF IPl'F.R I.OllSIANA.— EXmiSIVE PRIVlLKIiLIS PLANTS I'f.Cl LI Ml To LollSlANA.—MAPLE

rl<;au.— I) vN<. i:hols hki'Iilks. — hlack bkaus.—

CHASE.—JAWIAK.— milALO.—MAMMOTH, Oil AMKRI<;aN KLLl'IIANT.

1 HE gourninent of Ujqier Louisiana, like that of all the other Spanish colonies, is military. Kdaining within its<^*lf the civil and jiuhcial ptiucIS, die drl(u;ate of the government may be cilh'T li')'.''.! (.'!' badi 'u.st ov unn.ist. uIjlisc Ins uulhoritv or kee'i himsilf witiiin the liiuii^ of lus otiice. He is in no dread of m; j. \( .| II

*'

1^1

'Is"!

y

•'^8

HM lAc's travels.

being reprimanded by bis superiors, who are frequently as culpable as himself.

Far from encouraging population, they seem already bnrthened with the few people that inhabit it. In vain does the Spanish government assert that the interest which it takes in Louisiana, is on account of the produce which it yields ; instead of being any advantage, it is a great expence.—But this country is a barrier which the prudent proprietor supports at a great expence, to preserve his fields from a dangerous neighbour. These reasons, specious in appearance, are futile, when attentively examined In the first place, Louisiana produces nothing. I have heard a rich proprietor complain that he had not reaped any thing, wheii he Ought to begin by stating that he had not sowed any thing. One tenth part of the sums expended for forty yejus would have entirely changed the appearance of this country, if it had been wisely employed. It pays no taxes ! but what are moderate taxes to a people protected in their la''Our and industry.'' Money in circulation, which is contiimally returning to its source, far from injuring the prosperity of a country, contributes to the public wealth and opule\ice. Louisiana is, I grant, a barrier to preserve the rich Spanish possessions in >Jexico: but why remove its guardians ? Why, niider the pretext of -eligion, stop those that offer themselves, while they ought to be assisted and encouraged .'' In fact, if there exists a government blind to its own interests, and those of its subjects, it is undoubtedly Jhe Spanish. It is poor, while possessing mines that eniicii the universe ; without bread, while enjoying the most fertile lands; without manufactures, with thousands of hands nnemploy.'d ; in ii word, without weight \\\ the political balance of lliuope, while it has the means of makmg itself ftared and respecteil.

Agreeable to the Spanish ^-\stem, the trade wit!) the savacres is earned on by exclusive privileges, which the governor-general ought to grnnt as a r( comptntt! for services, but which, in truth, are disposal of to the bc-t bidder. This right of sale is reckoned among the tmohiments of the ofiire ; the sahu-y ot which is barely sultiiient to nuiiulain him, although (Kwi'Micd to make his tDrtuiie.

Tin; exclusive privileges ought politically to he considi-red as u disease tending (o dissolve iliu .soiial body, by encouraging an estrangement of the peojjle from u government which tolerates them. As relating to connn. rcc, tluy nuist be regarded as the source of iuiloknce. and abvdilioii of industry. The S|>anish government, in oiilti to jiiMify »\clusive privileges, adduces true or apparent ni(ttivt.>. in iln- ijrsi ulaces the uoc.'ssiti o! ki! piu^'' the savages in Upper Kouisiuiia in a state of depentlance; so tha^ on the fust symj>toms of discontent, all conunuuieatiim niiidit bt»

OniGIN OF MAPLE SUGAR.

69

Stopped, and all means of attack or defence removed. Secondly he nnmorahty of mo«t traders, whose jealousies and competitions' daily give r.se to cr.mes; and Mho often remain nnpnnishid by the

Im s if itstff. recon,pense services to the state, without exiiaiistmg Its coffers, ordunnnshing its revenues.

1 he two former reasons bear in themsome appearanceof reality, bu these are tar from counterbalancing the abuses that resul f.om exclusive privileges. As to the thiVd, it is so oppos te to received principes, so adverse to good sense and sound pdU that It IS scarcely credible it would have been advanced b the mneteenth century. It is only necessary to behold the Jaluid state of Lpper Louisiana, to be convinced of the abuse The inhabitants, jealous of each other, instead of employing means of ncqmrmg property only think how to destroy it.^ Those on^^ being respected u.om the government favours, they are conti^ mally calculatmg by what calumny or intrigue Uiey\my ob ^n wWr'' ^^'"*^'\^o"^«P^»« to them the paths to fortune: and uhen these reflections do not give birth to crimes, there alwav" arises an apathy and mdifTercnce, the best consequeice of wh^l IS an unbounded idleness. From this source flow intemperance drunkenness, debauchery gaming, in a word, the total corruption of public manners. Forced to linger in indigence, their talents remain hidden; and those happy dispositions which nature theirTm '" ^""^ "° J^dvautages either to their families or Upper Lfjuisiana, situated in a temperate climate, produces

coun ry. Among the latter, the maple seems to merit particular attention. 1 his tree, which grows in low and rich lands, furnishes a sweetjn.ce, from which sugar is extracted, although in some degrct> mfenor to that obtained from the sugar-can?. In February and March, the inhabitants of Louisiana and the Western btates of America reap this profitable harvest. As soon as the rays of the sun have acquired suflScient force to penetrate the earth, the sap circulates in the maple in such abundance, that It vvonld force an outlet if one was neglected to bo made. l;rom this flowsa hquor, which being collected by travellers cave rise to the opinion that it contained something more than the common sap of plants. Experiments soon discovered its valuable qualities. J he following is the mode of preparing the sugar — i\s soon as the winter has given place to a milder season, the inhabitants \\ho wish to obtain sugar, transport their families to the woods, and there erect lints. 'J'heir fir.n care is to provide tucmsr.ves uun iiuiiglis. Atterwarda they pierce each tree with an auger of about half an inch in diameter, Some require to be

i

til

'M

(JO

DU LAC S TRAvr.LS.

pierced in six places, others only in two, ^A hir. il.c season is favourable, that is to say, when cold ni'clits succeed line days, the maples, fill the holes so pierced, thice times in l\\euty-four hours, with a juice very stronoiy inipnpii'.itrd vith s-ugar: but vhen, on the contrary, the wcalher is raiiiv, it loses in quality ajid quantity. AVhen enough is collccte d, it is pla( cd in a pot over a tire and evaporated. The residue foims a plcasi.ut s\rup, which has been employed with success at Paris, foi colds, Scc, under the title of the " Sirop du Canada."

It would be difficult to relate tl-.e niuiicrous plants which grow in this fine part ot the New \\'( rid. The ludinus have no other pharmaceutical preparations than those which nature lias provided, and yet there is hardly a wound oi bite, however venenious, which they have not simples that will cure. With some of these they will oiUn remove the most obstinate maladies ; and even the venereal disease is mid, wh.tn in its worst state, soon to yicKl to the virtues of theii- plants.

I saw an Indian who had be^ii wounded in a slvirmish, and continued his retreat with his ctinradcs, tl.'oush thev w»?nt at the rate of sixty nines in twenty-four hours. W heiiev(>r they halted, one of the (hiefs applied a piaisler, nuu'e of a root, which he bruised in his mouth, to the wound, and liistcned it with a thin slip of bark, so as not to impede the motion of the part.

Among their less important plants, are those from which they procure their various and lasting dyes. Oni jlant they have, which possesses so singular a property, as almost to exceed belief. It destroys or moderates the action of fire. A savage made the expeiiment in m\ presence. He took a piece of the root, which he chewi'd lor sonie monunts, ar.d tlitn rubbed over his hands. He next took three coals in the state of the most vivid combustion, which he successively extieguished by a gentle friction betwem his liiiuds, without the least perc< ption of pain, or the smallest ai)ptaiance of any burn, or excoriation of the part. Irfe alierwards took some coals in his mouth, blew them into a flame with his breath, held tin n) Ijetween his teeth, and bit them in pieces without exhibiting any Evmptoms of pain or injury. The Usages are best acquainted with the mode of using this plant. These experiments may, I tliiiik, serve to explain how our ancestois passed unhurt over the different ordeals, to which for various crimes they were condemned.

They have another extraordinary plant, which possesses the propertv of coagulating watir, and reducing it in a few moments fo a"curdy ma-s. A few drops ot the juice are sufficient for the purpose.

DESCRIPTION or BKAR HUNTING.

61

Tlie only venomous reptiles Avhich Upper T.oulsiana pro<lucos, are the rattle-snake ai)il the hissin5;-snake, or copper serpent; htit to these, nature has furnished a natural enemy in the hog, at whose sight they lly, but whom they rarely escape. The black bears, far from being dangerous, fiuiiisli when young an agreeable and wholesome food, and when old a great quanlity of oil. Tlie chase is most advantageous in wintwr. As soon as the snows commence, they retire to hf)llovv trees, or excavations in the rocks, where they remain without food or drink- until April or May. At this time tlie chase begins. Four or five nien are employed to discover the pla<.'es where they aie hidden. The most intre[)id of the company provide themselves with torches and cutlasses, and enter the cr.ve, followed by others, armed with guns or carabines. I'he bear, benumbed with cold, is only awakened from his lethargy when burned. If surprise fl while sleeping, he is killed without danger; but, if awakened by any cause, he dartj towards the mouth of the cave, overturning every thing that opposes him. He, however, seldom escapes the hunters without, who are stationed for the purpose of intercepting him. Some of these bears yield two hundred pounds weight of oil.

The Jagars, called by the inhabitants of J Louisiana panlhers are found iu great numbers in all the temperate parts of Nortli America. They are only to be dreaded when hungry, or deprived of their young; and then they innke the woods resound with their cries. The tlesh of the young Jagar is tender and delicate, and is in my opinion preferable to that of the squirrel, or even veal.

The wild bulls or bnfl'alocs were formerly so numerous iu Upper liouisiana, that hunters were contented to cut out their tongues, and to leave the carcases for carnivorous animals or birds. This animal, which frequently weigh.s one thousand pounds., affords excellent meat. Its skin is used by the .savages, both as u covering and a bed, and the length of the hair renders it impenetrable by rain. Besides the above-mentioned animals, this country produces game in great abundance. The wilds turkeys here attain a great size, and are found in large flocks. In the autumn and winter, they weigh from twenty-five to thirty pounds. The rivers aboiuul iu lish of an excellent quality.

Another animal that seems to have existed in great nimd)ers, in Xorth America, is the Mammoth. The quantity of bones found in diffeient |)arts, prove that this animal was a native of this part of the globe. JJke the elephant, it measures ten or eleven feet in height, and fifteen to eighteen in length. And the inipossibility of its being able to reach the ground with its head, leaves no doubt that it received its food by means of a

^1

■m

ilZ

m; LAC S TRAVELS.

flunk. The only difference of those species seem to roiKsisf m the position of their tusks. In the elephant they are fiatteneH, more vertical than horizontal, and phiecd on both sicJes of the upper jaw. In the Afammolh they are round, nid at .■♦ome distance from each otlier. Their substance is different from ivoiy, being on the surface of a brown colour. They are »i( (oniposed by tlie air, and when thrown into water occasion a bubblinn;, snniiar to that produced by calcareous stones. Oi' this animal various skeletons have been found, between the S'> and 4;» degrees of Nt)rlh latitude. What have l)een the causes of the total extinction of this gigantic race, it is impossible to say: •-iuce no animals are known ni this part of the continent, able to>si5iul)at or overcome them. I leave this, therefore, to be decided bv naturalists: and onK add, that where auv bones have been found, tiiey are always in great quantities, so that ibis animal either lived or fought in companies.

CHAP. XII.

SAVAGi^s OF irrr.ii missouui.—tiiilir bklief.—wor

Sllll*.—1!1'LIGIOUS CliUEMONIKS.— CUSTOMS AT THE UEATU OP A PAUENT.—HUUIAL, &C.

JL he Ilicaras, formerly the most populous nation of North An)erica, possessed thirty-two villages, njost of which have been destroyetl, either by the Scioux, or the sinall-po\. 'J'he few that escaped formed themselves into one tribe. As well as ihose farther north, they have little communicalioji with the Whites, and have retained the manners, customs, and dress of their ancestors. 'J'wo leagues from the village of the l{icaras. Hows the Cliaguyenne river, broad but shallow. It derives its source, according to the account of the savages, in one of the ujouutains on the west. The Chaguyennes, ^ho arc continually wandering on both its banks in pursuit of buffaloes, ;»re (!i\ided into three hordes, the largest of which preserves tlie uan)e Cliaguyenne; the second is named Ouisy, and the third Ciiousa. Not content with hunting on the banks of this river, tluy pass on to the immense savannahs near the Plate lliver. 'ilie lakes and morasses beyond these savannahs abound so much wilh castors, that they are considered by this credulous people lo be the original residence of these animals.

" In the midst of these lakes," say they, " is one much larger than the rest, and to which no animal dare approach. The buftahtes will not venture to graze on its banks, or allay their thirst in s'': waters. In tlie middle ot tins Inke ss h cottage (%f an «xliaordinary size, surrounded by a number of smaller ones.

■im^^tiiti.,^~^-^y-^i'^.A i ^

DU ri.UI.XT TUICLS Oi S.\S Aiil.s.

(T.J

Lvwy .„ght at the sn.ne hour, the Ui.teis an- auitn!. ,1 i,. a Uicailiiu manner, and a noise heard res. inbliti- lliat ol uii itiipetuo.i'o torrent. There the kin- of the eastcrs rcsidts. Two vownj; savages one day bein^^ desirous to see this noiuh rful animal Iwd themselves in a thicket, at a little distance from the lake. Uurnig three days, they remained there, without secinany tinng, but always heard the noise of the waters. Thev wereontlte pomt of departing, when they suddenlv perceived «n the summit of the cottage, a beaver of an immense size, ami white -.lii^d swan, who, after looking around him fur some time, iricd out, and immediateJv the waters were agitated : the youu<r incn being terrilied, fled and told this to their companions." "* Ihe Chaguyennes, although wanderers the greatest'part of the y^ar sow near their cottages maize and tobacco, which thev come to reap at the beginning of autimm. They are in geneial good huntsmen, and kill great numbers of castors, which tiiey sell to the Scioux. Many other wandering nations (hat ar<i n.iied to the Chaguyennes, hunt in tlie same country. Thev are the Cayowas, llie Tocaninambiches, the Tokiouakos, the Pitapahatos. The great nation of the Padaws, is only distant iriTr^*"' ""'t^s *Vom that of the Uicaras. The Halisanes or tiald-heads, are a wandering people, who hunt on the opposite side of the Piate Kiver, as far as that of th(> Arkansas, and oxtend to the foot of the mountains of New Mexico. From the JVhite Iliver, which flows into the Missouri, two hundred and forty miles lower than that of the Chaguvennes, as far a* another eighteen miles distant, whose name is unknown, all the eastern banks is occupied by the Scioux or Thous, who are dividc<» mto four wanderuig tribes. This people, who are deceitful and cruel, often plunder the Ricaras and Chaguvenne* of clothes and horses, and the Mandancs oi" maize and tobacco. The Mandanes, who formerly were verv niiimnjus, at present only amount to about three lumdred 'warriors. Tliey a." divided into thive villages, the most considerable of whij-h is on the western ba.;k, and the two others on the e:istern bank of the Missouii. The Asseniboines, a wandering inaUm on the north of the ^lissouri, traffic with the Mandancs, whom tlitv supply with guns, gun-powder, balls, ?;c. in exchange for liorses, maize, and tobacco.

One hundred and fifty miles west of the Missouri, is tlu^ mouth of a large river called \ ello^vlock. Its bunks abound iu iHift'alocs, and all kinds of deer.

The Savages on the western banks entertain a groat veneratiou jor inc Whites, and itaJe is carried on uitli tiiem in safety. It may be regarded as a certain rule, tliat the l« .s ihrIndians have had communicalion \^ith the civilized nalions, duMiUH' they are gogd, generous, and kind. '1 he bad seleciiyn gt

§

j)V lac's tkavkls.

men to trade with them, soon ms.kes them .lose that respect which it wouhl have been so imporlaitt to have preserved.

Their belief cMieerninjj; the origin of llie woiid atul man, is so eloscly conneeted with absurd niid ridiculous fables, as searceiv to merit a relation. They all know that there was an original man, but thev differ with respect to his on ation : some atlirni that he cnmo from the bosom of the waters, odiers from \nc earth, and that the ravs of the sun gave him motion and existenee. They all adore a. Supreme Being, whom they call the Great Spirit. 'J'he followin«>; is the ujanner in which many nations of XJpptr Missouri say, that they became acquainted with hnn.

"The ancient savages," say they, " neither knew or reverenced the Grt^at Spirit, neither prepared for him feast, or sacrifices. Thev had become so wicked, that he resolved lo exterminate them, which he effected by lightning. Being moved with compassion towaids those that were spared, he resolved to njake tliem good. To accoujplish this, he inspned two young girls lo go to a little distance from the village. He there" plunged them in a deep sleep, during which one v'5.s raised up into heaven; the other soon after awoke, but not seeing her compariion, she ran to the village, but she could not find her. Men, wonum, and children, were bewailing her fate, when a cloud of an extraordinary form appeared at some distance, and tilled the spectators with terror. On the cloud was seen an eagle, carrying the young girl, whom it placed on the sunnnit of a neighbouring mountain. Upon this they all ran and enquired of her, to which she replied. " llaving been carrie(i while asleep into heaven, I found myself on waking, at U;e feet of a man of dazzling beauty and gigantic, foru). Vou:\ girl, said he, look at me: J. am the (neat Spirit, l.ord oimen and animals; with a single word, I give to them !;l'e or d«>ath. It is to me that men ought to^offcr feasts and sacrifices, but they do not so. Ketuni to then), and tell tlu-ni that you have seen me, and what 1 require of them, 'i'l-.ose that are obedient shall enjoy prosperity ; those (hat are rebellious, I will -.'...stroy." *' Since tliat iimej"say the savages,'" we have worshipped the Great Spnit, and have offered hiin the first fruit.?."

The savages particuUnly reveience the sun, because it is tlie most brilliant and bountiful being in naiure. 'i'l-vV ai'die the morning star, uhich they aKvay.b <'nlr( at lo !,e propitious, before they atrack heir enemies. They respect the cedar, because it is the" only tree that leinauis green durhig she whole year. The l^j-.p^i-.js'everv >!:!!', ou 11 certain day, i>l:-.nt ouc^ of these trets, with great crreindiiy, at the intrance of the lodges of old men. In all the vllliij.'es"up the Missouri, there is u large cabin, called

HELTGIOUS CEREMONIES OF THE SAVAGES.

65

the Lodge of Old Men, and which is consecrated to feasting, dancing, ..vid religious ceremonies. Here they give audience to strangers, and deliberate on the interests of their nation. It n also called the Lodge of Mercy; for if their most cruel enemy take refuge in it, his life is not only spared, but he is secure from every insult.

When the young men wish to obtain from t!ie Great Spirit the gift of courage, or the favour of killing cnie of their enemies, they ret.' to a h'll, where, without provisions, they pass several days, uttei Jug all the while the most hideous cries. On the last duy of this religious ceremony they cut oft' a joint of one of their fingers, or gnaw it off with their teeth, and leave it on the hill.

Others bore holes in their aims and shoulders, into which they pass wooden pegs, apJ to them they attach long cords, from which their military weapons, and many heads of oxen, are suspended. In this state they make the circuit of the village, and having repeated the ceremony for live successive days, they depart for the war.

All the savages believe in a future life. They say, that after death they shall go to a village where all their wants will be s<upplied; and that those who are the bravest will be dignii. d with the greatest honour.

They are more or less sensible to the loss of their parents, and express in various ways their sorrow. The Ricaras and Mandanes very seldom uewail the d ;d. Ilie Scioux, the Tocaninambiches, and the Chaguyennes, are, on the contrary, inconsolable for the loss of theirs: night and morning •.iiey bewail around their cottages, sometimes for a whole year. The womeu cut off' their hair, and distribute ail that they j)i ^^ess among those that will come and weep with them.

An old Scioux, having lost his son in a battle with the Osages, cut oft", every month, a piece of his ears, so that at the expiration of the year, he had nothing left but the orifices.

When a warrior dies, or is killed in battle, his body is rubbed with a red earth, and wrapped in a skin. A hole Tour feet square is then dug, in which it is deposited. On each side are placed his arms and clothes, '.aid some meat; not that they believe the dead man cats it, but because the custom is derived fr>.m their ancestors. The women are interred with less ceremony ; whatever they have a particular regard for in their lives is generally placed by their side.

:u

lied

DV lac]

C 66 ]

CHAP. XIII.

JIANNERS OF THE SAVAGES OF UPPER MISSOURI,—EXAMPLE OF JUSTICE EXERCISED BY THE SCIOUX ON ONK OF 1 HEITI GREAT CHIEFS,—DOMES IlC M ANNKKS OF THE SAVAGES.— EMPLOYMENT OF THE WOMEN.—WAR OF THE SAVAGES; MANNER OF COM M ENCI N f/IT.—RETURN OF A CONQUEROR.—SC A l.P-D AN C E.— SORROW AFTER A DEFEAT.—TRAITS OF COURAGE AND INTREPID] VY.

xIlMOXG the savafjcs littlii distincticn or siihoidination k known. They live, althongh in society, in a slate bordering on perfect efjuality, wilhont established laws or jndiies. 1'hey arc naturally generous, and will divide their superiHuili<'s, or even necessaries, with those that are in want of them. Not anxious for the future, they <njoy the present. Tlie indifference vhich they shew to riches is tiu; cause of theft being unknown among them. Their cottages are open at all hours, and anyone jnay enter that pleases. There are among them neither liars nor calumniators; and if any one should be diseoverjd iu either of thesa faults, he would be considered as a man of a bad disposition and a bad heart, if any dispute arises among them, they all become judges and mediators.

The savages live in their villages without care. They are always eating, drinking, sleeping, or dancing. They ("at their nieat roasted or boikd, and drink the broth. If a ptisoii v\ho is uivited to a feast neglects to come, it is eonsidered a breach of politeness, Mhieh cannot be piudomd. Tlu> like both to cat and smoke in c<)m))any. Tim savages reason with jud;jsnunt on the aiVairs of tliejr nation, and the best means of success. In ihf'i, eon\ersafi(iii with strangers, they are grave, and aft'ect to Spvak m niono<ylhlilis. 'I heir ruling passions are, hatred of their enemies, and ilr.sire of nverige. 'Iheir only ambilioi. is to Le aceouulid brave. They h;i\»' u memory which nothing eaii e.'Ciipe. If ihcy s((; a tree or a stone, which at all excites tl'.eir attention, tfuy will re nninbtr it for ten years to lome. 'i his species of memoiy they never lost.

All tlitir animal s.-Um s uw in tin- hmlu-sl degree of culture and peril cthjii : tills is piuueidarlv seen in tht^ir nowccH '.if vi-:!*!!} In the darkest night tluy wil' pa.vs th<' most e\ten;<i\e ifuvanuahs an'l plain?,as if instinctively, to the spot which liny wish to reach.

A STRIKING EXAMPLE OF JUSTICE.

67

Where the European can barely discern the trace of a siii-lp footstep, the Imhan will leach him that ten, twelve, or fifteen men have placed their feet there, and he will follow the track throu-h the thickest forests, and over the driest rocks, vvitliout any deviati^. A leaf moved out of its place, or a flint turned up, 19 sutticient to awaken his suspicion.

ITie old men, who have been brave in their youth employ themselves m exhorting the young to follow their examnle by stating, that the Great Disposer of Life loves those that are just, generous, and brave; and that he despises the crafty the avaritious, and the coward. '< Imitate," say thev, " voiir ancestors ; they were illustrious by their coura-e': nevJr eat or smoke alone, but divide your provisio. ,mon- those who have none and you will be great and respected." '] hey locommend to die women labour and good conduct, and enc(nnai,^e them to marry. Ihe savages, without possessing any geographical knowled.^e mark on skins those rountries that thev have traversed, and thSso livers they have descended or ascended, with a precision scarcely to be credited. They distinoinsh the north bv the })()lur star and calculate distances by the numl;er of davs employed to reach them. They divide the year into four parts, and' reckon the months by the moons.

\kliough the savages have no laws, yet they have rules of conduct, from which they never depart. In some ruses, the old men having deliberated on what n-Kards the public welfare, make it known; if the whole villa;;e approves it, it niu,>t be executed. When, for in- ^ance, a whole nation goes to hunt bufi'uloes, they select the bravest warriors, and mark out the di lunce U any one goes beyond it, he is beaten, and his horses and dosra •re killed. Each village contains a gretit chief, and as many people of rank as there are brave or wise men; to these csiiry iliiug that relates to the public interest is adihes>cd. A warrior fivquently receives as great respect as tht: chief.

An example of justice exercised on a great chief hv ul nl the ScKMix nation, caHed Chaony, will shew how a man i..,iv <l- reive tins credulous and superstitions people, and also how terrible they are in their revenge. This s.ivtige, in a vf.yairi will. some English tradns, had ac»juired some know lodge of nirtliclne. .so that on his return he was considered by them as a sorreni! Prollttnig by the terri.r that Ik; inspired tii some, and tli.- wU miration of odiers, he seized their best lioi-cs. bore (.If tii.'i. woiiun, and committed other ouliages, w.iliout niiy om. (uiring to oppose hnn.^ Encouiaged by his succiss, he one day seized iv.o Wi.imii, v.iio ref'.,s« d to Coum iil to his desires. Afte*' having exhausted all the means in his power lo seduce ih.iu, be darted upon thwiii like a tiger, cut .)«" ilnir no*cs and their lip.!,

1 'A

!

n

i

■i>'

li

69

Du lac's travels.

II il

imt

-4

Li

lUled th«m, and scattered iheir bleeding limbs in different part*. The inhabitants of the village, incensed at this act, nnanimously condemned him to death. Without aay deliberation they surrounded his cottage, and massacred him. Then they t(>re his body in pieces, and gave it to the dogs, and set on fire his cottage.

The savages relate many examples of the like punishment; but this will be sutficient to shew, that a person abusing his power among these uncivilized nations, is always punished as his crimes or tvranny deserve.

The savafies'huve no customs that in any shape resemble those of civilized nations. They obey no laws but those of nature. The woid politeness is unknown among them, and probably always will remain so. They go into each other's cottages. to sleep, eat, diiiik, or smoke, as freely as their own. The women lie naked, and often rise on certain emergencies without caring ■who sc( s them 'J'hey are generally covered with vermin, which they kill between their teeth. I'hey never wash their clothes, but sutler them to mt upon their backs; they never cut their nails ; and eat, without any repugnance, out of the sauie dish with their dogs; and what renders them particularly disgusting to the Whites, they rub their bodies with-the fat of the meat which they eat.

The savages cat their food raw, and without any seasoning. They veiv seldom employ any salt, and never any herbs ihat are strong to"the taste, like spices, although th.-y are very abundant in their countries. They are cxiiemely 'nd of idleness, and almost always eat in a recumbent posture. The children, far from respecting their fathers, often ill-lnat them with impmiity. To beat a clnid, say they, renders hiui a coward, and deprives him of that courage which characterises a warrior.

Th«' women, i.mong all the nations of Upper Missouri, are considered as subaltern beings (irat( d only for the wiints and pleasnn s of man. Hesidcs the wot k in the interior of the cottage, which naturally devolv(s on them, they cullsvate the lands, carry w;if.r. anil rut wood. If they go to the chase, they Miubt cairv on tluir bat ks llic animals that art- killed.

J he children at lifteen are permitted to go both to the chase and war. The women sut kl«< their < hildien as long as they wish. Immediately after birth, llu y aie wrapped in a soft skm,

and 1:

lul littoii a niece o

)f bark, whirii is susneuiled by four ropes

from the ror>f of the cabin. On this the mother, by a gentle itiof. sends the child to sleep. When tlie infant beoins to

mo ai

quire siKMigih, iImy «airy it on liu ir liut k>, ia?.tt nru ny iJiC sunie skill a>i is employed lor the bed. They even w 'ik >\ith

biirlheiis in the most laborious manner,

11

lie j>avR«ics tr«

'

WAR OF THE SAVAGES.

69

•

tall anil swift walkers. The men have a long visage, bright eye*, and aquiline nose ; but the women are, on the contrary, ugly. The surprising agility of the men is imputed to the necessity of exercising themselves in the chase, or in escaping from their enemies.

The chief, and sometimes the only motive of the savages for commencing war, is the desire of glory and praise, which is bestowed on the man mIio achieves any brilliant exploit. The warrior is respected more than the legislator, and the conqueror more than the philosopher who silently labours to alleviate the miseries of human life.

7\n(»tlur still more powerful motive is, the love of revenge. This passion is so violent among diem, that if two nations are once enemies to each odier, they will never be reconciled, without having previously done to each other the greatest possible injuries.

The old men and mothers constantly relate to tl)v!r children those that have been killed by any tribe, and exhort them to be brave, and seek revenge. This desire, which increases with their years, seldom fails lo produce its etfects, which again ^i\o. rise to murders and revenge.

Among the savages of North America, any one may form a war-party, and put himself at their head; the chief of such an expedition is called the leader. When these leaders have not acquired any military fame, they are seldom accompanied by any except their t elations, or some who are desirous of makhig their first attempts. Those small parties, termed ma»-auders, set out in the evening, and return in a short time, whei they have only seized f-ome liorses Irom their enemies.

The chiefs of the first class determine to commence war either to revenge an insult oftered to themselves: or at the entreaty of the old men, to revenge the death of their sons ; or at the solicitation of some young men, who are anxious to acquire fauu.', and have them for leadrrs.

In the latler r;ise. he who solicits this favour, after having walked several times weeping around the cabin of the warrior, enters, holding in his hand a pipe tilled with tobacco. Without littering a word, he rits down by the tire, and places the pipe at the feet of the warrior, and awaits bis answer. If he intends *..> accede to his solicitations, after a long interval he takes up the pipe, lights it, and smokes ; after which he returns it in si., •..« to the pMseii who brought it. If he intends to refuse, he !li.\)ws the pipe fioni him, after ftatinp the reason fur such rclusal.

T!ie chttt who \\&t acc'jpttd of the pipe, or who hi... formed the intention of connnenci»«ir war, clioo«es a day, on which he pixpurc* a feast, (comiuouly of Jo;;'* iksl;,) to winch he inviuf»

i»^

fO

DU lac's TftAVEL*.

the bravest of his nation. He informs them of his iatentioiM, Many successive days are employed in the same manner.

On the evening preceding his departure, the hist feast is made in the cabin of the great ciiitf, to which all his followers assemble, and the war-mat is displayed. This mat is made of the feathers of different birds, stained red; to which is affixed a blade of white maize. This is worn round the neck of the great cnief.

When the hour of departure arrives, which is always at daybreak, the chief goes from his cab n with tears, and awaits, at some distance from the village, his couipanions, As soon as they are all met, he ceases to weep, and tin n, assuming a martial tone and air, harangues his little army. He always walks last both in going and returuiijg; and only carries his arms at the moment of battle.

The young men light the fires at the time of encampment,

• carry wood, construct cafans of bark or rushes, fetch water, and

roast the meat. 11 is astonishing to behold the activity with which

the wishes of those .vhoui they have made their superiors, are

complied with.

_ The war of the savages is a war of surprise; and in this consists the chie, taliiut of the warrior. He >vho can attack his enemy while nnpn pared, is sure of overcoming him. They take every precaution to conceal their marches, stud scouts, and pass through low lands as much as possible, in order to prevent being seen. Small companies only go out in the night, and during the day conceal themselves in the woods. The scouts are generally covered with skins of wolves, or other aunnals. If they per ceive any footsteps, they immediately give a signal to the chief, •who halts, and deliberates what is best to be done. If the footsteps are those of nun, he deputes s.ine of his most skilful attendants to follow them, uutil they rtach their cabins or village. This is executed with a patience which only belongs to savages. Having followed the track, and reached the cabin or village, they exaninie which side is best suited for attack, and leturn to inform the chief. They remain during the night at a little distance from thi; enemy, and ns soon as the dawn begins to dissipate the darkness, the chief gives the signal by flrinv; a gun, or drawing his bow. All the warriors follow his example, and make the village re-echo with llieir shouts. The euemy seldom resist this unlorescrn attack, but seek safety in flight. During the heul of action, men, wointu, atid children, are iiidiscriminatel> massacred. After a great tilaughter, some are taken prisoners, who are enif>*<>ye«i us slaves. Formerly Jhey sold tlu m to the Whiles but this trade has been proiubitcd by the iinglish and bpauisli gowrnments.

i

THE SCALP-1>ANCE.

71

i

UlL ^ ." T^ '^"''"^^ *'^^ conquerors scalp those that are k Hod, plunder the vanquished, seize tl,e horses/ u..d hastily re!

V ' Cert ITf. 7.?"^' """*^\ ""^'^ '^"^'-^-'^ their own coun.

^; J ^ . '"^/''^^^""'^ t'^^'> «'-'^"'e from danger, thev halt

a..d dnule the spoil. When the couquerino-pan/is v ,in one

vance, to hear an account ot the expedition; after xvhich the chict comn.aud., them to go and announce it in tlTe village

songs. Ihe old men carry the scalps fastened to Jong sticks

painted red, and are followed by the warriors, who are thanked

or having revenged then- nation, .nd are held up as examples to

he youth. In short they all seem more like drunken pl^Ie^

t an those ammated by any sentiment of pleasure : these demon

TZ'yoi:^::::' '""'''^''- ^^^'^^^ - ^^p--^ - the

t)enlT.''"'"'rj''^''"'''"" ^'''^ ''■^ taken prisoners, never exco^ V "Z^^ treatment. The savages of Canada, on the contrary, either burn or eat theirs.

rln?" *''". ^''^^'"^•"S day, a great feast is prepared for the >varriois, and the old men announce the scalp-dance. On this, the ^vumen adorn themselves in the finest manner; and the warrior^

^tV^''^'^''"'!^''^''''' «"^-^"-" ->«te the parti!

^h m t le '"'l 7\ .^^^'^^.^'"•^^ ^''^'.V 'l-P-'Tt, carrying Mith

turn the scalps and then prisoners. Three old men £lJow

l>fa.ing each a kettle-drum ^Fhev are met by the women vho

re t .' t'"V^''"'';»''^f'^7\llH.m. A fire is then lighted in the

o,^ : T' " "'",'''/' '"'^^' '"^Se pi.'ce of meat, an ox's to igne a .calp, and a human heart dried. Silen.e beiii- proud, the oldest n.en begin the song; which being ended, three men advan.e ; one takes the meat, another the tongue, and the i the scalp and heart; and holding them up, thev walk three «"H.8 round Ih.- lire, and then cast them into the midst of the names. J o ihis succeeds the dance, which continues for many

Asthcsavag.-sctl.bratp their victories with the most extravagant marks oi jny. so dn th. y also bewail defeats will, th« (o..p,:st sorrow. Son,.- m-vcr case lan.e.nirg the slain, until then deaths have been revenged. ().l„..s ar. only afllicted for a

lL .i"; :• ''"."'V''^ *"""""'*^* '•> the old men, who remind t^x.n that thpe killed w hadle will be received bv the (ircat

4 tilrit .. ! . . .

]••'■? V jt II

*;-" -" •"' •' """"*ii. I ii.M' jinncipies are so deonlv

fiigraven m, tlnu h,,nK f.om then earliest veais, that fathn, otien rei.MCP at the <i..:,ih of their .sun.s, and wives at that of their imsbands.

74

DU LAC S TRAVELS.

If a chief, formerly victorious, should avoid death by flight, all his property is seized, and he lives alone, dtspiscd by his vhole nation. The contenipt is so great that none ever return under such circumstances. Before I conclude tliis chjipler, I shall relate some distinguishing Uaits of courage, v\lii('li prove how little ihe savai'.es dread death, and how higliiy the} pi;zc and esteem honour.

The Ototatoes, during their summer chase, were attached by a numerous party of Halitanes, and were ou the point of being taken prisoners, when a young chief of the Ototatocs, named Blue Eyes*, who was mounted on a horse, ad\anccd into t'le midst of the combatants, and desired the action to be suspended. He then challenged the bravest of the Halitanes to fitrht w'idi him hand to hand. Thev laid down their spears, and only kc[»t their daggers. After remaining some monjenls, deliberating where it ^vould be most advantageous to strike, they both rushed forward and seized each olhei', aiming at t'.ie same time many blows. The Halifunes, seeing their chief ready to tail under the superior force of the Ototatoe, pressed forw ard and extricated their chief, half-dead with his wounds, from his grasp. The Ototaloes also ran, but too late to save their valorous chief. Both expired at the same instant; upon which the Ilalitanes were put to flight, after experiencing a considtrable loss.

If the foregoing proves the intrepidity, the following will also the coolness and tirm resolution of this people in moments the most perilous.

A party of eighty Chaguyenne Indians had attacked eight or ten families of the Halitanes, with whom tluy were at war, and defeated them without difficulty. Enough, however, escaped to give the alarm to a large village of the same tribe in the vu:init). Jn a moment all the warriors mount tlitir horses, and proceed to the spot, where the Chaguyennes are otf their guard, and busy la collecting the spoils of the vanquished. Hardly twenty men of their little parly ''urvived the unexpected attack, when one of their warriors, by vhe following nohle display of sagacity and resolution, saved b )th their lives and his own. He had observed a ravine near, where the horse of the Halitatics could not penetrate ; here he retired with his little troop, whom he oidered lo dispose their lire-arms near him. He was not willmg that :my should dis( harge' them but himst If. \\ In n any of tiie t:nemy approached, he took his aim willi so nuich coolness and precision, that every ball told. His own j)arly had nothing to do but to kei p loadmg

' I 111! siivniT' s (liMT «' M.iir iiiuncsnilii'v from tlii'ir general form orappcnistu.-i'. ot from tliose jiiiiiial'j tliat tliiy luujii prtlcr.

TRAir OF COunAGi; AN*D INTREPIDITY.

73

his guns. Eiiin::;(>d by this obstinate resistance, and ashamed of being vanqiiislied by such a handful of men, the Hahtants disriiDiuitecl ijom their horses, cut down some bushes, which they held before them as a |)H)tection, and advanced. The Chaguyenne rliief instantly adapted his plan of defence to the new m)de of attack. He made his people resume their arms, but ordered tliein iiui to tire till the enemy drew very near; and then only half to fire at once, in order to give time to those that had tired to reload their pieces. This manoeuvre was so promptly executed, and succeeded so well, that the assailants, most of whom were ^^■ounded, made a precipitate retreat. The great chief of the Hahtanes, inflamed with revenge, and stung with shame, resolved to kill the Chaguyenne chief with his own hand, or to perish iu (he attempt. With his buckler and his lance he rushed impetu<t!is towards the foe, who awaited his approach with a serene . look; and vvhen he got so near thai he could not miss his aim, llie Chaguyenne warrior discharged his piece, and struck his enemy 111 the heart. He instantly fell dead ; and his comrades retreated in dismay, without attempting to ofter further molestation to the return of iht Chaguycnnes.

CHAP. XIV.

n!r,ATIKS OF PEACE.—MANNEH OF CARRYING THE CALUMET*.— KKCEPTION OF THE WAKUIOUS SENT WITH 1 HE C A LU M ET.—C ALU M ET- D ANC E.— SU N-D A N C E.—OXDANCE. -— DRESS — IIAHITATIONS—COMPLEXION AND

TEMPEH Ol TUE SAVACJES OF UPPEH MISSOURI.

IIIF.IR ARMS.

j[ U O sav;ige nations si^lJoin resolve to make peace until they have diiiu^ the git':it< si pos-ihle injuries to each other. That nation ',\hivh is in want of llie privilege either of hunting on the uilier's lands, or of exchanging various articles with them, commonly makes (he llrst proposals.

In euchsavaj^c village llurc are some, who, through caprice or marriage, lia\e lelt liieir own nati* ns to come and dwell among strangers, by whom they are considered, especially in war time, an ujtives. Tiiebe arc enipl(»yed to curry the first proposals of jience.

After mature deliberation on the advantages and necessity of

i

nu LAtrl

" Calu-.uet ijigniiies .i pipe» Ik

m

74

nU l.\C S TRAVELS.

peace, tlinv send by tlie ambassador a lealliern bag filled with tobacco, a»id ti(d \\\\h a cord, on which are made as many knots as there are villaj^es in the nation with whom they wish to treat. He tMittrs iti the night as secretly as possible ihq cabin of the chief, to v.hum !u; explains the motives of his embassy, and presents the bap of tobacco. The next morning the chief convokes a meeting of the old men, warriors, and others of distinction, and relates to ihem the message, gives his opinion, and presents the Lag. If the assembly think proper to accept of it, the bag is presented to someone of'the warriors, who is known to bear the most violent lesentuu nt agamst the nation that has made the proposals ; he nnlies it, takes out some tobacco, and fills his pipe. After this ceremony, the chief informs the anibassador that they may bring the calumet, and that they will be kindly received ; if the terms are not acceded to, the bag is returned untouched. When peace is agreed on, one of the nations deputes a chief, who is accompanied by, at lea;-t, tuenty-five warriors. Previous to their dep:irture, all the chiefs and people of distinction assemble at the

■ Lodge of Old Men, and the calumet is taken from the mat in M hich it is wrapped, and carried by one of the bravest, with marks of extraordinary respect. The deputies are then inlructed what to do. Duiing which time a large ketJe of meat is placed on the fire, and the calumet is filled with tobacco, which nmst onlv be smoked by the nation with whom they arc treating. The tidie of the cahmiet is painted blue, the symbol of a serene skv. 'l^ hen the nuat is cooked, a servant * divides it into pieces, and jnesents it to the \\arriors and others in the cabiti. Before any one begins to eat, the mo-t distinguished j erson present cuts three pieces, and, taking them in his hiinds, entreats for success to the end)assy, ar.d then casts them into the fianjcs. At the close of the feast they all smoke : and tlie person whfi is to be the !)earrr of ttie precious ob;- ot receives it, standing, froHi the liinids of the chief.

\\ hen ihey h:ne arrived within sii;;ht of the village, they announce by signals tlieir approach, antl remahi until a warrior coniC) to invjte (hem. Thiy then advance a little, and are met by the i">b!es, be aring or leailing the presents, which generally consist of horses or arms. The ambassador having made them smoke, the children oftir tin; presents; after winch the chief invites ihem to enter.

••*'' Men RpparclI(H| like woinrn, ami iiiv not only iniidi- to pcrfonii nil the \i>\' (lrud|;erv to\>liicli the '.imi'j;<' wonKii arc coiK.icuii.iHl, l)ut arc even iiuJjlitu il to gratify ccituiu unnatural iJii)j}(.iisitics.

CALUMET-nANCE.

75

i

llie bearer of tlie calumet is made to sit on a fine skin, in the most honoiuablc place. Tlie warriors of botfi nations intermix, and give and receive marks of frieudsliip. They serve up the meat, maize, «i;oinds, potatoes, &c. Alter the repast, the pro• posals are related, which often consist in st^ctuing to them the privileoe of hunting on their lands, e '.ing or smoking together, and of exchanging with each other various articles.

These things being granted on both sides, tlu^y promise to live amicably, and the calumet is smoked by the whole assemblv. 'J'he ambassadors return in few days to the village, and carry tlie news of their success.

The savages have diflferent sorts of danc("r, which differ either by the ceremonies which precede or follow them, the actions they represent, or the objects for which they are designed. The principal ones are, the scalp-dance, of which I have before spoken, the calumet-dauce, the sun-dance, and the ox-dance. Their gravity in these amusements bears such a decided contrast with their quick motions and burlesque appearance, that a foreigner is unable to discover with what sentiments they are actuated.

The calumet-dance only takes place w hen two or more nations, or parts of the same nation, are encamped near each other. The following is the .mode of making the proposal.—One of their chiefs, attended by Hve or six warriors, goes to the chief of the nation with which they wish to dance, holding in his hands the calumet tilled with the best tobacco he is able to procure. He lays it at liis feet and invites him to smoke. If he agrees to the j)ro|K)sal, he takes up the calumet, lights it and smokes; then the warriors express their gratitude in the most extravagant manner. They send for the chief's children and caress them. If he rejects the proposal, he refuses the pipe, and desires them to defer the dance to another time.

The chief who has consented to receive the honour of the dance, assembles at his cabin all his relations, and entreats them to assist him to do honour to the dance. All are desirous to offer liini whatever they possess, which commonly are horses and arms. The chief sends an old man to exhort the women and children to generoiity, and assist Uieui to render the feast worthy of his reputation.

The next day, the dancers hohling in one hand a calumet, and the other a kettle-drum, leave their cfbjns, preceded by the chiefs and nol)les, carrying also drunis. The women follow, bearing rlu- presents, winch, when a circle is formed, they lay at the ftjet of their luishaiids or fathers.

Thf olil n)en go -and brnig t!ic chief aui! iiin children. lie is iiciit. d in a place prepared for him, and hi^ children are placed on

K 2

76

DU LAC S TRAVKLS.

fi

four bundles of oiloriferous herbs, resembling in form a large eagle's nest. A vase filled with water is then biuuulit, and one of the nobles having added to it a linndf'n! of litrbs, sprinkle* their heads and faces, after which lie wipes t'leni. 'I'iiis ceremony i- calUd adoption, and that which altaclii^s the father and children for life to the nati'.Mi. A Tier the adoi'tion, the women advance, and paint the children with veinulion and other colours.

Two dancers at first walk rotnid the circle in a slow pace, but in a short time [gradually quicken their steps, and al last end in niakujij contortions incapable of beiuL; described;—imitatini;, say tiiey, at one time, the flight of tin; < agle when he darts upon his prey ; at another, when he i.^ combating a weak enemy j and at anodier, w hen he is gliding through the air.

The more their gestures are extravagant, the more is the assembly enlivened. The delirium increases with the rapidity of their motions, until the spectators follow the example of the dancers. Generosity then is carried beyond bounds, presents are mutually niatle, and they strip themselves without thought for the moriow. The chief is at last obliged to stop their course, by snatching the culumet from one of their hands. On this the dance cea«es.

The horses ilesigned for the dancers are then bro-.ight, and presented to them l)y the chief. He is afterwards conducted with his children back to his cabin.

The sun-dance is not practised by all the savages, or all those that inhabit Upper Missouri. It exclusively belongs to the Seioux of the Savannahs, to tli'.) Chaguyennes, Tocaninambiches, and other neighbouring naliuns, who particularly reverence this luminary.

On the day appointed for thf» celebration of this festival, » large cabin is erected in the middle of a meadow. The ehiets and old men are placed in the njost distinguished phuos, while the women and girls, having their faces painted wi;h colours expressive of gaiety, occupy the <)tlicr>. 'I'he bravest warri'-is are distinguished by the quantity of their ornanu'uts; and no one who has not killed a v\hite bear, is peiniitted to \vear a necklace made of its claws. This isj a particular mark of distinction, because the white bear is the only animal in North America that will attack ^ man before it is, wounded. They are so ferocious, that they will sometinus enter in iIk; night the villages, and destroy the inhabitants in their cabin •.

When they are all assembled, a large tire is nuuie at some distance from the cabin, around which are placed caldrons tilled witU meat. The chief then announces, that it is time to offer

ox-DA^•cF:.

77

IS

the presents to the sun; and iinmedititcly arms, caldrons, skins, in sliort, tin; iMost valuable articles arc brought. These preparations uuist be liiii:,hed bd'ore sun-rise. As soon as his rays begin to !\ild tlie horizon, the old men coinnienee the song to the sotuid of the drum. The youth of both sexes, holding calumets, bei^ni the dance in the cabin, while twelve naked boys dance m the open air, pointing to the sun. One of them holds a cahiiuet adorned with the most scarce and brilliant leathers. The dancers in the cabm sometimes desist to take refreshment; but those on the outside keep pointing to the sun, until he disappears, without any provisions, 'iliis festival is soiiieliiucs repealed for ten successive days, if tho weather coutiiutes fine.

\\ hen the dances are ended, the presents are divided among those warriors that are in want of them.

1 cynid -.levei- learn uuy precise reason for die first institution of this testivai. Tluy imagine that on this luminary depend tlie strength and courage of their warriors, the health of their childrtin, their prosperity and population; that he alone is able to preserve them from disease, and cure them of their inhrniities ; and that he [)rovideo them with buffaloes, so necessary both for food and clothing.

Gratitude seems first to have given rise to this religions ceremony, the design of which cannot be too much applauded.

Two nations, near to each other, often anmse themselves with the ox-dance, for which there is no determined season or day. If a village wishes to celebrate the o\-d;mce, fifteen or twenty warriors assemble in a cabin, dress themselves in their warhabits and arms. 'J'hey place on their heads,the skhi of a wild . ox, to which the horns are alHxed, and the whole is fastened on by a piece of skin decorated with porcupine's quilis.

In this dress the warriors proceed to the place desi<; the dance, accompanied by singers and drums. At one tnne they bellow and laise the dust with their feet, at another they r-usue each other, and at another they push with their horns. I hes- sports are continued with various gestuies and altitudes for hail a day, and sometiuus longer, without the least signs of fatigue ; but, on the contrary, they never desist without uiving ficsh proofs of their activny, swiftness, and supleness. During the dance, the old nu n exhort then nation to make presents to the warriors, which are generally very considerable.

All the nili!ii)itant.s of Upper Missouri, both olii and young, g> nak.d (luiiiig the sunnner. A deer-skin, winch' they \ve;ir ov.r Ui.jir shoulders, similar to a Spanish cloak, serves ihcni both fur cove lug and ornament. Those belongmg to the

igned for

-if •

78

DV h,\Cf> TRAVKLS.

yonth nre ormmrntcl xuh iiorcnpli.es' qnills, and painted various <••) mn-s. J |.c>y :iie alike iiisnisiMe to the heat oF sinniner, and cold of \viM(»>r. HoMcvcr, wlun the earth is covered with .-non-, and the vvnu!.. hUnv violently, they wear mocksines*, and cover th«'n-bodies with a ^kin.

'I'liey iiavc no partienlar wav of wearin:^ their hair, which IS generally Ion-; and in (lisonl,.!-, fXeept oniestive days, when n K caretully bonnd up. Some stain it with the juicjs of different pliinls; and adorn it with i)oir!ipinc,s' quills i^lj the savages lui\e, m their intaiKy, their ears nit, and tiieir parents take care to nitiodnce into them roinid [>iece.s of wood or bra^ wjre. The Mandancs, lialilancs, and Corbeau?:, are the only nations that do not follow this practice. They wear all their ornaments round their necks. It is difficult tf>'imagine to what a lenjith the cartileges are extended. 1 jiavc seen a Miami savage, whose e;!r-rins.>;s, althon,i;li not louivcr than three irches leached doNvn to his breast. .Many wear the similar orna.!:enls in thcjr nose"?.

Tiie^ women are covere(} with a skin, which reaches from their shonideis to their iWt. 'J'lu'v are ornamented with porcupIm^s• qmlls and small gla^s beads. Their ears, like d,ose of the men, are pierced and adorned with trinkets, but the cartijeges arc u^f lengthened, '{'he young women paint themselves vvithdiff; ic.il coloms, but vermilion is generally preferred. The sa\ages of Upper Missouri arc divided into stationary and wandering. The statu)nary tribes are those who constantly renKiin m their villages without going either to war or the cha'^e"vliile the \\ander< rs ilerive their whole support from the pur• suit of animals, aiui carry with them all their propertv, without troubling themselves about agriculture.

_ 'J he .stationas , nations construct cabin- round and terminating Jn (he form of a cone, and large in proportion to the number ot their inhabitants. ^Hie tents of the wandere.s are made of butlalo's skins sewed to each other, which terminate also in ^ cone, 'i'hey iiave four wheels, and are drawn by dogs. The nations of Lppcr Missonii have not received either arms, clothJi)g, agiicnltmal instruments, or any tools from the Whites. Ibey boil their meat in earthen pots'of their own manufacture. .\ sii-irp stone strongly iixed in a wooden handle serves them' i-^y.- a hatchet. To obtain lire, they rub two pieces of wood, one .solt and the other hard, violently a-iuinst each other, till they omit sparks, and are received on some dry branches of llie pine

* Skiii-liocs in the forjii of ^ocks.

ftiAiiVcTi-.n OF Till-: savacEj

r-r

sli. Ti

79

ph

ot baik, or youiuv

ash. 1 j,ei " vvlnch the vTonieu canv m-,,/,. branches of the uillow TI ' ' 7 "!""' "'' >'*""''

a rakaton 5 " '^"."^''^'^''^'P''" '"^"l^' "^e of, is called by hem

half in 1. H '?;• """'''^''' ^'''''^ "^" "'^""t <'"^ ^<»< t ar.d a ^oJ "'''■',"'" ^^'^^*"^'^' t" '' ^voodc n handle, \\hon e„

n^'vSJ'stiJ^ "'^^ •'^^"- ^-^'^-^ ^^'^^ ^•^-^

of !l!'r y""^'' f"'^ *" f""^'''"'' ^'''" ^"^^' "-^'l >"«^Io- The Sciouv

-i^ b;;r':;t. "'^" ^''v'^-""---t' ^j- bn.ve«t, and u:^:z

fhoCu' «^"»e l.nie, the most cuunino- und deceitful

Iht Chaguvennes, nearly as handsome, and not less bravp.

fiX i ' , *""^'' ^'■'"^'' •' '"* P"'-c ■■'« th« "i'-- They care

seen aj^that are lame or deprived of an, ^^^ ::;^'^ ^ mmble to carry heavy burthens, but are indefatigable la

exte d ' ' V r'^ ""'^""^vn to these men, who woidd

extend their career ot life to a ;4,ea(er leuuth, ,f they esc-, ed the scourge ot war, and refrain.-d from suic-i le —tW h isS noommon to see old nu-„ stabbin, and hanj^n-. Zn. l^ iHM- because th.ey are unable to accon.panv the vo mo "^^ 'tS tlie clu.se, or want strength t^revenge theu^l^elv^s un ihelrCm!.^

CliAP. XV,

AMOURS AND MARUIAGLS OF THE S A v AG ES.—RFFI rr T.ONS ONTHK .SAVAGH L, r..-co.M .A lU SO N « ■yVK,; HAND IHAT or MLN X.,y,NG j j, SOCIKTV.

IT would be both too long and too deficient i,i interest to

sh 11V "T"'^^^^^"'' "^" ^J'-' ="-"^s or each savage i^tiol l.^hHll only relate the customs generally observed bv tlfe cS'

■ ho

are acrupuiuiisly alieulive lo follow thei

i

r aiicotors. VVJiej

80

DU LAC S TRAVKLS.

a ycimf^ man wislies to many the daugliter of n cliit^f, he applies citlier to his fatlior, or some one of [lis relalions, wht* goes and entreats the fatlier of the girl to consent. A (ittinitiv e answer is never given before all her relations have lieeii ronsulted. They examine how many brave men and good hunleis lia\<.' been in his family. If he is not in pos^ission of the se (j-ialifications, the nvarriage is broken off'; if he is, he gains ihe unanimous suffrage of the family. After this, they arc entreated to supply the necessary expuiees.

J'revions to this time the young n)an has never entf red the cabin of the girl; but on the next day he is eanied in Irimnph to his wife : and lur relations, after having made him (at antl smoke with theni, inform him that he may eonie and live w ith her when he pleases. A few days afier the marriage, llie girl's brothers enter at an early hour the cabin where the new married couple have slept, and drawing tin; hushmid froin his bed. place liim on a nnit in tlie middle of the cabir. An old ni:m then brings a vase tilled with water, and having washed hi.n from head to fof)t, paints him with vermilion, and covers him with X skin. His biothers in-law supply him with arms, an<' he is not received into the family luitil lie has a child ; t'lcn, and not till then, is he permitted to build a cabin, and live w lit re he pleases. Polygamy is tolerated among all the savages, without being attended with any inconvenience, as the women are always accustomed to consider t!ie meti as superior beings, to wliose pleasure.s and wants lliey m.stbe subservient.

The Scioux, Chaguyenn(>s, and Toci'ninaiiibices, arc cxtremelv jealous of their wives ; while the Mann-iui s, Hicanis, and other nations of the noith, hold in no - tunation conjugal liddity, 'i'he womrn are generally kept in a state of slavery, and are never p< rmitted to ije present at anv feast.

The tirst consequence that natmally flows from cont<-uiplating the savage nu)tle of life, is, that man is born for soci< ly ; but the seco: d, trulv atflictin|j, 's, that ihi: ties of this socie'tv can only be ritrengtiuned at the ixpenee of in(Hvidual lib( riy.

It is plated brytnid a tloubt, that bifon- the launan species vasso prodigiously multi|)lied in some pails oftheghdn-, nuii liv?d in a manner closely resend)liii,!; that of the liidiiuis <,;' d<i' new lontinent; without other nourishnn nt tluui the lU-^h t.t uniniuls suppiieti In the forests, without ot!;« i drink than water.

J.et us folh)W an Intiian thrt)ugh the tlillVrent stages of liU life, and (•t)nipare them with those of a man in u ci\.li/t d stx n i\. When a child, he is in no tiread t)f parents or tutors, lie hain-i, througli necessity and example, to suppoit, without complaint, hmi'^v r, thirst, and tatigue. As Noon as he attained the ugc of jjubtity, (which is gtiicrully at fourteen <»r fiilten) he begins to

cnu.lZKD AN

D SAVAfir J.IPE CCNTRA

STHD

81

.« I,cr o S T; "' ,'""'^''"■"•'I'l'^^ "<"SI lie take to m

vcrsUui >c trmpn ,>• opposite to hi,- ow„ ; he is deceived ov«

converted n.to lu.trecl and conten.pt: he wonid S to-, o d

e cause ; naune tells lun, that 1.. Inay, that he ou^h l^^l

N^soi soaetytronger than nature, cc^.n.and hnn /be J

ch.uns. and not lessen their weight, un.H death . pa aL t^,,

1 .. oniv pasHon which opposes the l..p,>nu.ss^>ru^ dun ""<« N Inch he cannot aKvavs j^naldy, is reve ,oe. Continu I v e ' J^:^-I n. ..r uuh the nei,hl.ourin, nations; eacir^eSn'

Bnt, in o.her respects, xvhat a happy state of existcnre '

•"';:•-■. ='>.Hq;..ts hieunhont regret lor the past or t. , .r ;/;•""■•■• tH,e,allshv .lie hands of his enemies, he roi ' t '•• '^ =.I.out to enjoy an happn.es. . ,k,:oMn on earth \ .. 'U.C .« exempt hon. n.firnnt.es. l|,u„,. „odnng LI e"

ti..r> p,,.,io,H »,.. men hi eiviji/ed socieiv arh.ted ' tlu v'.re •

" l.on) every I nnj; ha. succeeded hevorui hi. svU,,-,, t|„ „ ' .^^ .'■; •;f-;y'l.h,. exploits; notap..ph: hut ,|. r vp ' I

;;;;.n-.n.id.uhyhnn;,K^^^

'"I. the earth .. .,.>, snlHe;eMt to .rraluV ium, he Mesne, an "»''-' u.>,h , n. ul.uh he couM .pread te.Vor and death. ' L ""^7 l>'n>hes over heaps ,>f ..old/ ,un,ed af the expem'e of i'

ti..n(|iii||il\ of niiiid. , ,

i»- L^c.j

•i ((iivwi

82

»U t.AC S TRAVKLS.

■I

fied, perishes in the midst of his excesses; while those, whom Jt more noble passion, the love of science, stiiunlates, die without sayin<!; life ,s been long enough.

The cuhivator or artisan must every day think on the wants of his family, whic'.i perhaps he is not able to relieve. If attacked by disease, who will comfort him? If he dies, who will take care of his children ? If ho attains old age, who will support him r If he las amassed wealth by his labours, his heirs regard each day cs a thi'f! If ho is poor, those to whom he is a burthen look fi.'-ward to the moment of his death! Thus, men m civilized Sv^iety pass their lives in following after shadows, without enjoying any real pleasure, and frequently die, regretting the past and dreading the future. It is ccrtai", that many Whites have renounced the charms of a civilized 1 c, to enjoy an imboiuided liberty with savages; whiii-wehave never yet heard of a savage, who has vcnounced the pursuits of his \outh, or sacriiiced his pleasures to a civilized life. These people may be conquered, I ut no power on earth can make them iabonouji cultivators or arlizans.

CHAP. XM.

Vh

DEPARTURE IKOM UPPlill LOUISIANA.—CAPE GIUARDOT. — NEW MAi)i:in.— I'OKTS.— lilVElt AND VILLAGE OF THE AHKANSAS.—NATCHIZ.—TtOCHIi A DAVION, OK WILKIN SON VI LLP..— KlVI.il AND LS r VULISIIMMNT OP WAt,( HITA.— MONOPOI.IL.S OP TUP SPANISH CO M M A N DLKS.

J. IIt'] excessive heats connnon to Upper Ijouisiana in the months of August and Se[»tenibei- having abated, I d<;terinined to set out in the tarly part of < )ctober for New C)i leans. Cape Cjirardot is the first pl;i{»' of any importance that I inel with in my (hscenl down the Mi,^sis>ippi. It is about eighty miles distant from St. (.ieui \ieve. /\buve one huiidud anil lifty Anglo-American families live ♦here, dispersed over a great extent of country, where they cultivate coi.\ barl< y, mai/.«s potatoes, and (olton, which are of a good quality, when the Jiusin do not s« t in very early.

New Madrid, one litmdrdl mil. s from Cape (jii:ndot, is of some conseipu'iiee, o:» account of its situation. All the boa>s which ticsct nd this fine river, i\\^ obliged to stcq) theie, declaic of what their cargoes consist, their destination, and shew their passporls. This p|ac<', as well iis Cape (iirard(»t, is under )hr controtil of the lieuteiiant-govemor r>f Cppei l.«>niMaiia. Ne;ir t<» St. (uiievievi', are many sall-spiiniis, whuh supply IU>t riily ihe iuhubiluiiti* of Luuisiunu, but abo Tcuessee, Cuia

i,i<

'. P"la

t, is i)f

clic:lu>c vv lh>.ir (k'l )lir

(Juitt

RIVER AXD VILLAGE OF THE ARKANSAS. 83

T)Piland, and a part of Krnuicky, from ulioncetl.ev receive iron cordage, fee. ni exchaiiirf!.

From New Madrid to the forts, nvIu( 1, are distant two !.„..dred u.des, l.ere are hut few i.onsos. Tl:,.. i\nts b<Uwm. to >pain are almost in ruins, hut iho.e of the I'nited Si^vs'^.re better, and contain a garrison of twentv-fivo .mo... JJoth are however, sun.nent to cMcuA the .soKhe.s fro.n the insults of U)c savages, who mo. th(Mr oiilv enemies.

. Two hundred a.iil fifty miles fa.lher, is the mouth of the river of the ,\rl<ansas, r.^puted the .ieh.st in J.onisiana, on acconn ot the feitihty of the adjacent com.try, the beauty of the lueadows, salt-spnngs, game, and mines. Having ascended it lorty miles 1 a.nved at the village, ^hic', is advai.ta..eousIv situated on the left hank. The inhabitants, ahnost all originally Heneh, who have emigrated fron. Canada, are hunters hy nrotession, and only cultivate mai/,^ for the s.ipnort <.f ti.cir "hoiscs lind beasts ol l.md...... Above half the year, oidv ol.j „; .i

women, and children, a.e seen in the village. TUv men hunt wild oxen, castors, and squinrls, whose skins are less valuable than hose in the no.thern countries. When at home thev pass their time m dancing, drinking, or .I-.mg nolhinsr: ,si,„ilar in this respect to the savages, with whom diev live the g.eatest ^rrt ;'";year, and whose tasfs and manners thev contract

ilic Indian nations that come t.. hunt on the river of lh<•Arkansas are the Usages, handsome and brave, but deceitful and cruel; t!i( 1^mis, sworn enemies to die White.- the U.awetas and Chicawchas, the most i)umer«.us nation in North .'\M.enca, biit ugly, c.wardly, cunning, and deceitful bevond rv. pression, I he Spanish government inain'aiu amo.i" the a^, kan.as a gar.iso,, „f i]ay or sixtv men, cmimaiHled by" a •apta.ii. Atter remaining i^, this villa-,., s.Uk-U d.K^s p-t c-.ntain above tour hu.ulre<l and tifty i..l,u!,it:.,ts, only .i sidlieient t'nie If) procure the necessary information fiom th. Vonnrnider .\ !(.,onu.l my boat, nhieh I had (.ft nt the moutli of tlu* me , and proceed,d on my \oyage down the Mi, ssippi I oni tuiice to Nauluv, the navigation olfrrs ■ • ! it.^ ,.i!|,Vr .'-re. abb' o. inleresiing. Immense forests b sti.. the riwr and the banks, but little elevated, are immdated at least once every year.

Natche/ is the only im|M)rtant piaee poss.;. , .» |,y \\ui

t iiilcd States oil the M

ississi| |.j. below the mouth of tile

U.-!'». It cnntams tn.-lve oi hlr.,.! tlmusaiid inhabitants, freemen and slaves. Mo.si „r tlu pn.pri.fo,.- aie emu bed by the cuhme nt^ cotton, for wliidi the lands i < xtreii.clv' well MUhii. The iortii, v,i,itli ■ mil «-ii higli tninnd nt llio ««?.f.«'ic« ol one mile from thf i, . onlain fine liouos nn.liich

I <»

84

DU LAC S TRAVELS.

s1ioj>fi. It is the stnpio of all kinds of inerdiaiKli/e neCesf tv for llio soiitlicii cohmu's. .Almost all the propriflors of thiii little slate, Iioiiin- tmimants from the soutlinn |.io\in,e;ii, have brought with tlicsn tlu- political piiiuipits there nrofessed. I'hey arc IVdcrtilisfs, coii-i-qiirntly not favourers of the present president. Nati hi z is eiihivaled hi an extent o; iifty miles m length, and twenty in breadth. The air is hraUhy, the elnnate agreeable, and it may be jnesumed, that it uill shortly be one ot the niobt powciful and populous provinces of the Umted States.

Ihe last post of llie United States on the INIi-sissippi, is Roche a Davion, where the Americans have built a fort, called by the name of one of their irenerals, Wilkinson. Here the head-quarters of their small annv are establish(>d. There are also some armed ves'jcls for the derVnce of the place. All the vessels that descend this nver are oblij^ed to stf>p here, and declare to what nation ihey beloiiii, and the nature of their cargoes. 'I'hose that ascend pay heie the dittus "u their njer^ ehandize, if destined for the American part. Soiiie units belo)v Hochc a Davion, are the limits marked out bv Spain and tlie I'nited Stales, in i;(,)8. It is a road thirty fi a wide, and ifs oireclion exactly from east to west: if. crosses the lands belonging to the Chicasaws, and divides the two rioriiia.-. from the Stales of (leorgia and South Carolina.

At a ijttle distance from the limits, on the opposite bank, is the Red l\iver, so called • the colour of the (arth suspended

in it. After ascending i miles, the mouth of the >\ aschila

is seen, which, in a conn t hast live hundred miles, waters

;i country, rich, elevated, ..,ailh>, and abuudai-.t in minerals. 'J'he navigation is diiticult, on account of the falls, which, iu drv weather, almost entiri iy (.bstruct its course.. K;ipides, ti\,mil's from its nioulh, is a small place, which has received its name from its situation on a part of the ii\( i, where enormous rocks accelerate the curnnt. The heltlehuut t.f \\a>chita is one huudied miles furlhrr, and is one of ihe Une^t phu • s in Lover l.uuisiana. Cap;il»le of producing jdl th(> plaiils ihul Jiie c.'ltivahd in the southern parts, suLiar ex.epud, it posM s-, s the 'uappn-eiable advantage of sahdniiy nv.r all the others l)oiil( ring the Mis.^isoippi. T'he cold, although very supportable. i-> Millieiently sharp to destroy insects and pnrifv the an ; while Ihe gnat he:i(s of smnnur so(,n ripen the cotton, indmo, luhiir.c. and 'ice. Wheat, inui all other grain, grows very fine. S|>tiu Keeps there a garrisiii ol about lliirty men, commandMl bv a eaptiiui. I cannot hue f'ibcar mentioning a ispecu s of l\i.iiiu\ eSerriM d o\er ihe pcop!(>. by men m the rmplov of lln* >paHyi ijoseMiin.'nt. nut can h.iiill).bclit\e that oHicer*

SETTLEMENT OF N ATC ►: ITOCIIES.

85

Jtt^ould degrade ihv.n- rank by becouihis; servants to their soldiers, 111 whom theyciiii only iu,si)ire contempt. In all the Spanish volonits taverns are prohibited; the commanders alone have the privilege of stlhng strong liquors. It is not m.com*non to liear a eaplam, or even a lieutenant-colonel, enjoving this privilege. *»iilt«r a bottle of rum to bo given to a solditT, wImmi he at the sanie time knows, that before the end of the day he will be obliged to pnnish Imn for excess. Besides this, they Hami the exclusive right of furnishing the inhabitants wi'th articles necessary for their consumption. This dissiraceful monoply exists more or less in all the military stations, excepting those of Ipper Louisiana, wlicre the governor has preserved the delicacy of a true I'lcnch soldier, and the conmhm.lers under him are too lar distant from Spanish manners fo inuiatu Mich a bad example.

C[1A1». XVII.

.NATCHITOCHES. — HATON-i;<) U O E. — POINTF, roi'PEE

ACADIANS.— (iERMAN COAST.—ATAKOl'AS AND APELIJSAS.—CULTIJUK OE INDIGO KEl'LACED li Y THAT OE

su(;au.

lyV about four hundrcil miles from the month of tbe Ked Kivei, is the settlement of Natchitoches. Jt contains from twelve to thirteen hundred inhabilaiits, who cnllivate cotton, maize, rice, and ti»b;i(co. The latler is reckoned the best in North .America, so that the king of Spain bought it Iroin die proprietors at a great price; but he has been so deceived, that ho lias drchned it f(.i many years, which has occasioned the cultivation almost entirely lo cease. iJesid.s tlusi^ productions, many (»f the inhabitants iialiic ^itli the neiglibonring Indian nations." Some miles bi low the motitli of the Red Itiver, on tlu! opposite coast, is the small fort of Uaton-rouge, occupied liy .some Spanish soldiers, under the commtmd oC a snb-lieutenani. 'Ihis fort is of so litll. importance, and the number of inhabilanls so small, that I shall not d'la\ the tune in mentioning it. iSear to this is I'ointe l-oupee, the hist post which has the title of parish in Lowtr Louisiana. It- ;iiliabitants cultivate ectlon, for which the lands are well adapted. 'J'hc houses which border tlie two shores, present an agreeaide prospect to ihf uaxeiier, i;iligueii with Ik holding dry sands and imnu'iisc lorcsts. Jii all Lower J^ouisiana, ilie shous ol" the rner aie alone snscepiible of cuhtne, but must la- (h'fcnded iVom MumrlatiMn by mea!!^ .>f baiik^. Th- hind:; m uuh's purls bung low, are a great part ol" the \uar covered by

M'

86

DU TAC'S TRAVELS.

uk

'•(

N.

hi *' I

I i

mmi

the^rains, vvl.ich fall during spring and a great part of sum,

'i^'7'PPer part of Pointe Coupee near the Mississippi is i„,

>abiU-d by ti,e descendants of the Acudiuns, uho e t, .

uve country ,n 1714, ^vhen France gave it up to KH, d

They .seen, to have remained in the .ame nu. iocnU-h fv eh

tlH>y were when they iirst arrived ni th.s eolonv. T ei ho c^

.em n.ther Ue.igncd for the abode of animal.; than m" n '

en p., ents. I he Aea.lians are knid and hospitable- thev

.r er suler a stranger to enter their hon.es, wiLut^\ ,no

to h„„ rotn-shn.ents ; bnl he must be verv hunory be ore he re^ solves to p■)^ \i !,.,< (I. ■' o^j i^tioie ne re

nuivfs lo e,it v\ hat thev picpare.

IWnnles belovv Pointe C(>up.'e, the chief objects of culture

:!..';• ;;:;:'r;;::;;,r;^:,,:;'*"''---'«^--'''--a".ed;^

J .nlived at Ah.kapas, and Ironi thence to Apeiusas ^I'lmJ

two settlements, ^yhieh aiv reputed the nrost c m u ^r-.b e .

Louisiana m the interior, extend to the west ' / s Vcintoches, will: which ll-ev c.nnnnnucate/ aUI ; ij .;>''■ ^^inle Atakapas, vhose Jams are rich eh vat. ,1 -nui I, coni:nns at least tu,> thousand. ThZt^^^t^'^^^ ;';;^'--'^-' '" ^-^ quunmies. maize, rirc^ &.• T ^ I'

Mants are active, laborious. an.| good cultivato s n e b there is a garrison of about tiftv or sixh m n ' "I .*. . .nportance of th.

on a considerable foriuue. ' "'' "'"'''''^* '" ••'"^»"«

At the sou.hnn CM,, inity of ;he German Coast, that i. to

Ji;. .....^ culu.at,ll nidi "r

* ^ -ibtwin.iiy, whicn, m ihc space ot tueutv

-1 •

CULTURE OF SUGAR.

87

four hours, often destroys tlie finest crop, has powerfully contribiittHJ to mtike its cultivation cease in Louisiana.

Tins culture has been replaced in all the low parts of the colony by that of sugar, whose easy sale insures to the inhabitants a more certain and not less profitable revenue, i^urin-the dreadful troubles that depopulated St. Domingo, the dispersed mlmbUants sought in all parts means of escaping the miserv which pursued them. Some thought that J.ow<r J.ouisiana, where no trials of cultivating sugar had been made, would produce it in abu. dance, and that the climate, although subject to sharp frosts, would, however, perm t them to manufacture it with advantage.

The sugar manufactured there is good, but inferior to that of the more southern colonies. The reason is, that the canes, instead of being ripened by heat, are forced bv the white frosts' which never fail to take place in December, "'i'hese frosts have two inconveniencies; first, to diminish the quality of the canes, which cannot remain more than nine months in ilie ground ; the second, to destroy the crop, when too early.

AiiUMig the natural productions of Southern Louisiana, I must particularly notice the wax-tree. Although it has never yet been much attended to, it cannot be doubted, tliat the wax will become an important article of cc imerce. A IVench chemist, who l.id resided for many years at IS'ew York, distovered a simple and cheap process to render it as white as that of bees. The approbation which he received from the United States, nmst add to the value of this tree, and the propagation of it in all parts of America where the climate is favourable.

CHAP. XVTH.

ARRIVAL A I NKW ORLKANS LA SA!,l,E.— IBERVILLE

ESTAHLISHMENT Ol NEW OR L E A NS—C KSSlO N Ol LOUISIANA TO M. Dfi CROZAT.— ABANDONED TO SPAIN.

ORELLI.— 111 ILDIN(;S, I'OPL'L 4Tl0N, AND I'OLICE O C

NEW ORLKANS.—GOVERNMENT, MANNERS, AND CISTOMS OF THE INHABITANTS—COMMERCE OK ARTICLES OF CONSUMPTION.—TAXES IMPWSKD ON LOUISIANA.— ENUMERATION OF THE AilTlCLES ON WHICH THKY ARE AND OUGHT TO BE LAI D.—DEFU U: N C V EXI'ERlENChD ANNUALLY BV THK SP^iijItH GOVERNMENT.—CONTRABAND COMMERCE.—TKEATY WITH THE UNITED STATES.

N

1^ FAV Orleans, at which I arrived in six weeks, does not UitTii u iuvuuiabi* dvacripuvu, A\i iinit cuii be ^uid in def-ute

m

9

8* r)V I.Ac's TRAVELS.

of its founder, is, tluU there is not for a -rent d'M-mcr a fln^r

l^o;;-.j":ln:^:tio;:.""^' "^ onl, <lei..ulcd b,.t tronahe

s«. pp., n.th some .^„ps gn.nlcd to hi,,, bv Louis XIV. J,, halle, uho some years before had .s.iled \loui. \t 1.. I

^q".^l,o„, ^^nh vvhhh he eudeavourrd to rovitit the nioutl

uest V,,!: ' ^'^j;-!^^^^ ••'ta cousido.able distance to the pt^r shod by the hands of the 'savaocs, ^^ho ^^ere excited to "

tortunate, Ibervn e lelt some adventurers on the banks of the M..ss,.ss,p|M, supplied them nith provisions, clotLs ' nd o e

S^oT""'- n''"/"*''"^ ''''' the' ]n,han:r'i"r turned to I ranee. On the report made by J.im to 1 onis \IV

o the wealth of this new discove.ed co.n.iv. he b v oil: ^Shi^f ;'"' ^Hvantages^^vhich it p.;>.nise.^ ^" i^ fettle mte'e? T'''^""'!; ^I-'v adventures joi'ned hin, tS

h eve a H",M;r '^^^^ '"^ '^\ govern.nent sent the,e son,e

tha?helnd M-r?! '"^ '^' Mississippi, Iberville found the men lo . i""' '^ the most depIo,able condition. So,ne

l>a.lpe,j.hed by the .savages, some bv reptiles with which ihii country abounds, and others by the excessive heat of the dun le 1 hose that survned had <:onstructed cabins, whicl tl.n sm r n^s -ir^''"' ^^•'^^""' ^''*^'" ^-" tl.e incursicln > ," ^

and b a ,lT f the ne.ghbom-.ng nat.ons, made then presents. an i obtained from them a promise that his co.u.t.vm. , ^honh

lab(m s IV V " r^''"*'t"^«' f^•■='H' PMt an end to his

o Z ; ^"^i"'*^^".^^^ «''>^^' »> ll'e <-<'l'n.V ; jealousies ^ave bir,

sun.o the necessary labours, each busied himself in i.ImJhL moJe. at n,ur.ng his ue.ghbunr. Things wer^m IL^ltbu;

• If liij-lu r, It vv inu»itiatii,>i)s.

ould be too distant fiow tlie »cu; if lower, subject

fo

111

til

l>i:^TRUCTION OF NEW ORLEANS. g^

situation, when M rlo n,.^ ,. •

both banks of the Mis is in . ^''T-'^'''\ ^' conjprehended o^- the Ohio to the M I? .. /'T^^'^: ''^'^^' '^"g^h, a part on the borders of Canada.^ ''""'''' ''' ^'^ «« ^^^^ ^n.,

During the few years t\\-\\ Vf a t^ tracted son,e cultiv.L " ,/ took tvhhT* '^""'"^'^ ''' ''« ''^^,t»"ers. Of all the inhabi d p'rts o | e n' 'T^^^' ^^'^'^"''a« been peopled so slowly as^Nvv( leans'" ''•^' rV"^ government,, after the death of LouTs \ V 'ff " T" ''^^' ^'^^ Ibe colonists ; none but those who we e u H ' 5 "^^'«'-''g*^s to posed to the ve.ioeance of the avs u ?f ^'""^'"^f °"'-<-es, or exIt IS difricuk To im-M^inf hi^r.; T 1^' l<^/he Mississippi. 'i>e war which terminS i ^fii"'' V' ^"'«"y ^"^ered by to England. Left to heir own ; ^ " '''r" "^' ^'^'""^^ iVo.n the molher-con rv t' - i .""^ '. IV^^'^"* resources "o n,eans of obla^^;;^:^;,^ ^.^"tr^:!^ 1 ""T ""'^^"^ ''^^ ;^;..^peace restored^hen. to ^^:!^U:::-

cionedk to go to a coin rv whertirnli ifr ''"? ^'^^"•lative laws. New Orle-ms' l.«rl .! ^ ^ ' "*" ""^'*'''' their -l.en France, t^om ^J^e tir^::?"'^''^ ^^^'P^^* i<roni that mon.ent, affairs J^^l'aT^'T^ " ^« '"^P^"". taking possession of it, winch (>i i f T^ f P""'* '^'''e cruelty, not only put a s on o ! i ""'"^ ^^ '"^ P*^'^^'*^"-^ tli« ariival of nel' et te J bu^ ht ?'"'' ^^ Population by to desertacountrv ' "' tt Sr ."'tT"'' ^^^P'^^'^^^ vain did Spain rec^ 1 ,, • the 11 ^ "^ "' ' ''^'""^- J"

^or the ref llection of h u/l^'h.^;;;;, 'ST^ ^"^ ^^^ ^^^"^

:-icontain about tweivj".!:;;;^," n^c-'^''t:'^?''^

i-^ tiie seat of the superior auth(>rities o I • ■^'':'""''

are vested in a governo/and oVe;'':^'^!,^ tW*'"! ^Y^ old man, who <'overns Jl.i. ,vJ,>..., .• "'""*^' * a loohsh

-., a „rag,„,a,cal and ,»„„.„„ ^o^,,,,, ,„;:;' .l",,,:',:,,!,;;'f„,t

tlio (!.)vmi.i.c„t, ' ""' '"" '•""■""'«• l" U-. the icourjs nf

»■: 1.1 C.| „

90

DU LACS TRAVELS.

of low extraction, who cairies to excess his hatred towards the French, whom he injures solely i'or the pleasure of injuring. The governor has converted every thing to money. The places given by his predecessor, have bctn sold : he has turned out men of known integrity, and ;.-plated them by rogues; and has done every thing to disgust n eu r.( honest intentions.

There is only one monastic iiistitution for men at New Orleans ; and tliey hide their dt |)ravalion and ignorance under the garb of religion. Tlierc is also a convent of nuns, where young girls are instructed.

I'he town is not paved, and probably never will be while under the Spanish govoinment. The markets, for want of proper ventilation, emit putrid vapours; so that it is likely, m a few years, either the yellow fever, or some other contagious disease, m ill destroy a great number of the foreign settlers; even the natives are olten attacked.

7 he Creoles of Louisiana have not lost, under a foreig^i government, either the love of the mother-country, or the tastes whiph characterize its inhabitants. They yield themselves to pleasure in excess. Teasting and gaming occupy all their attention. This latter appears the most predominant. They are humane, aflable, and hospitable. The Creolian women are passionately fond of dancing. The men, being brave, bold, and enterprising, nothing pleases them so much as the military uniform, which they wear at thirteen or fourteen. The government employ them in the militia, or in the reg-infcnts of Louisiana. They are often cadets ihc or six years before they gain the rank of «nb-!ientonant • but this is no inconvenience, the epailctte is that which ilatters them.

I bus, in tbis coimtry, as every where else, man is ambitious Jo commanii others, at an age when he is incapable of commanding himself.

Louisiana, vhich neither produced corn nor pulse of any kind, was supplied before the w ar. by France, when the inhabitants went under Spanish colours to provide themselves with necessaries, Ijut l,,r more thau ten yeiu-s, the Aniericans have been able to supply them. They receive in payment dollars, uhieh they send by horses and waggons to Philadelphia. They furnish them widi clothes, furniture, and other merchandize, and receive in <*xchange sugar, indigo, and cotton.

-All the taxes imposed in Louisiana by the Spanish government, are cojifmed to six per cent, on merchandize iniported, and products exported fiom the colony. On this hiad, as on many others, the policy of tlir InUcd States is preferable to njut of Spain. Tlit taxtx on ilic merchandizu which they ma

the

AMOUNT OF EXPORTS AND IMPQRiS.

91

a I taken off; wlnle those on uierchaudi.e imporlrd, u.e .n iuu^se proportion to their importance. The article of luxury a e still more highly taxed ; thus agrieulturisl. and inanutueture?.

?ortmir"'"'^ ' "'' ''" ^"'' ^^^^'^ •" I^-i-'-^i-' to their

be^'in^nri"rf'fr"V''' ''T.' *^"^^^"' '" Louisiana mi^ht be, It IS p.-ohable that they would have been adequate to the

^hZTh • J=""t'''b'"'t ^« earned on, notuithstanding

the sn.alliiess ot the tax, which obliges the Kin-of S.^ain to

ot the colony, may be calculated m the followin- manner :^

In ISOl, there was exported Trom Louisiana, 30,000 cwt. ot cotto. which, at l!20 liv. per cwt. the common value, amounts to .

Raw sugar, 8-^,000 cwt. at Q? liv. 10s. per cwt.

Indigo, 3371 cwt. at OOO liv. ditto

'J obacco, 7800 cwt. at 40 liv. ditto

Squirrel skins, 3000 cwt. at 200 liv. ditto

Castor ditto, 18 cwt. at jOO liv. ditto

Lead ore, 4000 cwt. at 30 liv. ditto

Sheet lead, 450 cwt. at 75 liv. ditto

Planks for the Ilavannah

Sugar casks for tlio above

Mules, horses, oxen, and cows, for ditto

Timber for ditto

Lhres. Suh. 3,()00,000 0 2,4.90,000 2,O'J2,0"OO

312,000

000,000

yo.ooo

120,000

33,750 256',0OO 194,6'00 600,000

96,000

0

o

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

Total of all the entries made at the Custom-house

oi New Orleans, in 1801 . . 10 4U OoO O

• To this may be added at least y_, to equal the sums '

""'^"''"'•^•^ ■ - -; 6/^4,970 0

I . . , . Total livrcs lC,0'59,92O 0

Imports entered at the Custom-house, in the course

01 the same year .... 5,478,598 0

n * 1 , Ti^ta] livres 22,138,518 0

But as the contraband on this part is more considerable than on the })ioduets of tiie colony

this sum juay fiiirly be doubled . - « 47s 'iOS f)

The H„H>unt of taxes collected is - . 27 O' 7'Utf 0

Which will produce, at the rate of 6 per cent. I'^OO-'.IH 3

If I

\i 2

IMAGE EVALUATION TEST T^"<GET (MT-3)

//

//

%.^^

/.

:^

•*' A^^^

t/.

I/.

1.0

1.1

1.25

li^^2A |2.5 ^ 1^ 12.2

^ 1^

1

12.0

II

1^^

II

M

[14.

1

1.6

= r

Hiotographic

Sciences

Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(7)6) 872-4S03

9

X

9'2

DU LAC S TRAVELS.

The expences fixed by the government are as follows:— Rxpciucs of administration Payment of troops . -

Adniiiiistiation of justice . -

Religion - _ - -

P'orts

Artillery " " " " "

Presents to the s:iiv3ges ...

Lliiforcbocn expences _ _ .

f'ustoiu-house - - • "

RJaiine - - " " '

Litres. So/s.

290,000 0

1,01)5,000 O

r(io,ooo 0

12(),000 0

.96,000 0

11(),000 0

4.4-0,000 0

100,000 0

52-10,000 0

178,000 0

Totallivrrs'2,8-H,O0O 0 All the sums on which the taxes r.re effectively

raised, amount on the one part to - 10,414,950 0

And on the other to - - - 5,478,5.98 0

Total livrf^s 16,893,548 0 It follows that the Kins '"-'f '^P'''"^ ""^y I'ctf^ives from

thiscnlonv 9->3,432 12

And that he will be obliged to send annually - 1,8S7,5()'7 8

The reform necessary to be made hi all parts of the administration, bodi military and civil, also the presents to the savages, to whom one half is not distributed, would certainly bring the expences to the level of the receipts ; but it seems the Spanish government sulifcrs itself to be plundered; nay, even encomages the dt-pretlation, by not allowing to those in their employ a sufficient salary.

The exportation commerce of Louisiana, fifteen years ago, was carried on with thirty ships of moderate size. Since the cidtivation of sugar and cotton, it has so increased, that above two hundred are employed.

Besides the above productions, New Orleans furnishes the Ilavannah with planks and sugar-casks, of which there is a great consumption. The contraband commerce with Mexico, is also a considerable advantage to New Orlea'is. The I'mropean merchandize, which is s(»ld at a lu-h i)ri<e in almost every part of this rich country, enc-iirages speculators to risk confiscation, and even corporeal punishmints, to which tluy are condemned if discovered. The traders, after ascending the lied Kiver as far as Natchitoches, transport their nierchandize ou horses to a distance of more than (iOO miles. The hopes of wealth make Uuim readily endure the fatigues inseparable from so lonsi a journey, and the terrors of some savap-nations, that kill widioiit pity'all the ^Vhites that fall into their hands. The lich nierchunts.' whose fortunes will permit them to make large

TRADE OF NEW ORLEANS.

93

sanifices, land on the most advantageous coasts, and gain over m Lheir favour the chiefs of the government, who, under pretenre of allowing them time to repair their ship, take no notice ot the fjuahty or quantity of the goods landed.

Tile traders bring from Mexico ingots and piastres, with u hioh they load mules and horses, the trouble of conducting which, and the expeuccs on the road, may be considere<l the Jirmr.pal part of their cost. 11ie mules, as well as horses, are small, strong, and vigorous. I'he rich merchants only bring hmk mgots and piastres, the countries where they land producing iiothnii, which can be sold with advantage, iiy the treaty of 1790" witli the United States, the King of Spain engaged to give them a depot at New Orleans for the merchandize destined to ascend the Mississippi, and for die overplus of the products of the Western States. This depot, which was granted to . them for three years, was to have been (if flis Catholic Majesty was unwilling to continue it) replaced by some other, eciuijly advantageous to both governments. \\'itIiout respect to this part of the treaty, the president of the United States was mformed, some time before my arrival, that not only the port remained shut, but that also a depot was forbidden to the iimeruan merchants. Tlii;, breach of faith could not tarl to exasperate the Western States^ which have no other channel ior disposing of the overplus of their productions. Jt has since appeared, that this measure was not authorized by the Spanish government, but was the result of the desire of injuring, and of hatred to the French,

CHAP. XiX.

CONSIDEViATIONS ON SLAVERY.—FREE NEGROES. MU

LATTOKS.—CONDUCT TO BE OBSEHVl.D WITH THE NATIVES or- THE COUNTRY.—TERRITORIAL ADVANTAGE."* OF LOUISIANA FOR FR A N CE.—THOS E V.iilC!! l! OIFEU.S TO HER NAVY.— COMMERCIAL ADVANTAGE —COMMERCE IN SKINS.—MANNER OF REACHING THE LAKIJ OWINIPIKE, OR WINNIFEG.

K^LAVERY, the greatest of .:ecessary evils, as well to those that endure it, as those that are obliged to employ the victims, exists in both the Louisianas; and must contmue many succej'ding ages in the souUi, if the government wish to encourage :i!.';ri«uliure, which is their only resource. The Negroes alone can labotir in these scorching climates ; the Whites, notwilhslandinv-, nil prvcantion, perish if they cultivate their own tields.

94

nu lac's travels.

To derive acUnntage from the colonics, the irnpor alien o. Negroes must be protected; but, it is at the .une tune the i.uJiesI of government, te watch that the inhabitants do not abuse the ixnver ci^en them by the laws.

Uter the cruef experience of St. Domingo, ^vh,ch probably has opened the eyes of all those philanthropists, who consider .s nothing the pros).erity of empires v.hen it is in contradiction to their seulimenlal notions of hmiian.ty, [ '"' ^^"^ from advising the government to relax the chains of .lavciy, ulnch either nm.t subsist, or the colonies be lost

In Lower Louisiana, the Negroes are badly t.d; .ach individual does not receive above a barrel of maize ^'^^he ears e v Kurnth, which is not more than one third o a ^^^ '"S'^^^^ Thev iTUi.t procure the remainder ot their tood and clothe.. b> tlie pnlce of^heir labour on Sundays, if they do not they must omain naked during the rigorous season. 1" ^ ' ^^^^^^^^^^^^ nerally wear a shirt, and a woollen covering m the to.m ot a

'ilt;;t-coat.

OuX not a master to provide his slave with clothi^S -^ food, in proportion to the work required of l^^n oes a dav of rest belong to everv man, and more cspeciall) to tboso ';-pbvcdmthe labours of the field: 'i'»-- ^^ntnnlni have been unnecessary, if avarice, more powerful th ' ""'^'^ t^^ did not govern all men, but especially the inhabitants ot the cohmies.MVhat are the consequences <n ,^'^'\''7'"'f,,:. .,^,r Ne<v,oes, badly fed and fatigued, are soon exhausted; .^^^.ik.ie s disc^Iise, and dc^th succeed. Thus does the master »'y '^'^S his revenues lose the capital, wiUiout being rende.ed wiser b> ,.xperi«-nce. 1 am not unaccjuainted that the ^^/;;f'-«^'^ f;^ '

hke other men; they cannot ^'r"^^^^ ^^ TZ^'

ment; that they deride those who treat them with km ncss that thev belong hv their moral constitution ««/"»^''/',',^^';. brute, us bv their physical, they do to man ; but, let u a least tak. the same care of them as of the quadrupeds which 'teemi^lov, let us feed them well, that thev may work well, and not rr(|uire of them more than they are able.

Til. Neiroesare naturally crafty, idl., cruel and thieves ,.ed noi add, that in their hearts th.-y are all '-^f^"*"''*,;;, "^ Whites. 'Ihe M-rpent endeavours to bite him that tramples lim ,uHlrr his fr.t; the slave must hate his master. 1^"' U i. .lifhcMlt to account for the brutality and aversion of t e t.et Blacks t.. those of their own species. Ihey are treated by

them worse tyan by the W lutes. . i • i ,,.^A tn

Ahlnn.ohthe fr.r Blacks h.se very little ot their hatied Ui

the W hiies, ve t tluv are far from being as dangerous as the Mu

^itiocs. These sifin to participate as much ot the vices oi

4

CHARACTER OP Til H SAVAGES.

f).5

both species as of their colour: th.cy are vindinivc, traitors, and equal enemirs to the Blacks and W hjtes. As to men of coloor, who are still more dangerous, it would probably bc> vciy advautageouH to form them into a colony in some uniijiiabitetl part of the continent: this measure would free the coK)nics of those men, by whom they one day or other will be destroyed, ami would abolish the intemperate conduct of the Whites'towards their slaves, which is the ruin of society, and the principal cause of the small population of the countries they inhabit.

I'he conduct of the Spanish government towards the natives of Louisiana, has rendered the manner difficult with w Inch the succeeding power should behave. Possessing sources of gold M'hich seemed inexhaustible, this metal formed the basis of all their enterprises. If they desiied war, they bought men, or if peace, it was procured by gold ; if it was their interest to preserve harmony between two rival powers, the one that was in want of money was forced to renounce its claims. 'I'he chiefs of each nation annually leceived considerable pre.sents for themselves and nation ; and eveiy savage goin^ to a Spanish colony, received the same allowance as a soldier as long as he remained in it. In rigorous seasons asid climates, they are clothed and provided with necessaries. Above eightv thousand francs are expended e.nnually hi these presents, by which the men in superio. Alices obtain their fortunes.

Of all European nations, none is better qua!hied to obtaia die friendship of the nations near Louisiana than rrance. Tliev have never forgotten that they were the tirst \\'hites that landed in their country, and that they tirst received from tliem gujjs and knives, (dangerous presents, but hii^hly prized.) To obtain any thing from the savages, we must be kind, and at tlie same time severe in the adnhnistration of justice. If tlie Spanish government is at present despised by the nations vvit'i whom they trad«, it is because, being too weak to be just, thev have suffered the tirst murders committed on them to go uupunishcd.

Among the nations with whom it principally concerns tlie possessors of Louisiana to be on friendly terms, are the Sioux of the Savannahs: in the tirst place, because they are the most ■numerous nation of the Nf)rth ; secondly, being tlie best hunters they are of great advantage to commerce; and third y, bein-' masters of the left bank of the Missouri, and the right of tlie Mississippi, they might intercept all communication with the tribes situated on tlie upper part of these rivers.

After the Sioux, the Osages are perhaps the most barbarous of all the nations frequented by the Whites in this pait of (h« gontiiient. The conduct displayed by sume French governors

95

nu lac's travels.

towards tho savages of Canada, may serve as an example t* those who shall be employed herealter in tlie same situatioivs. Tiom tliomoniejit that a murder was committed, all comnniuicatiou with the traders was interdicted, in.til the crmnnal was discovered and executed. If any horses were stolen, the same mode was resorted to until they were restored. An act ot nurcv is in the eves of the savages, an act of weakness ; and one crime unpunisiied, always encourages the commission ot

a second. , , , tt -.^ j c* *

Louisiana, bv the treaty between Spam and the United States in nyC), received new boundaries. Its hmits, which before comprehended both the banks of the Mississippi as iar as the Ohio, were tixed to the left bank of this hne river, below the 3(i"; and Spain only remained in possession ol the whole course from this place to its mouth, which vs m '29 ol, according to general estimate. , , * f

From the 'Jif of latitude, Louisiana enjoys the advantages oi all the climates in Europe, and can supply all their productions. The air is salubrious, the land fertile, and the mines abundant; it is so well supplied with rivers, that the inhabitants are certam of an easv and nninterruped communication to a great distance. . Sugar, cotton, indisro, rice, and tobacco, grow m the southern part; while in the more temperat^ parts, the . arth pi oduces abundant crops of corn, barley, maize, &,c.

France is situated in the most temperate climate m the world ; the lands are rich, its inhabitants laborious and industrious; but its territories are so confined, that notwithstandmg its fertility, the crops are often destroyed, either by drought or su})erabuivdance of rain. In those seasons, the inhabitants are obliged to obtain from their neighbours, corn, and other necessaries

of life. . ^ -, 1 1

Let us suppose L<Hiisiana peopled so that its fertile lands were cultivated, and its meadows covered with tlocks; then would FraiK e, in years of scarcity, llnd in it a itam lesource. Lxccssive rains, or great drought, can onl} o pari::'l m a country of so great an extent; and that part which has nut sultered will alwavs have an overplus to export.

To these advantages we may add those which France would derive for her navy from Louisiana. Being -Icstitute of timber, she is obliged to obtain it from foreign countries, as also ^^'^PBut if once in possession of this line colony, she would fmd resources in herself. The cedar, the cypress, the acacia, the different species of oak, whicii are all fit foi shi4)-buikling, cover its surface ; and hemp, without cultivation, grows to a great height, and is even superior to that of the north of Europe. Jrum the experiments which have been made by conmiand

COMMKRCIAL ADVANTAGES. Qlt

of the Spanish ministry, the most airvantageous conclusions have been drawn ; to this may be added the ))ossession of leadminos, the ore being, in many places, close to the sin lace of the ground ; the facility of manufacturing potash and salt-petre ; and the iron, copper, and silver mines, so abundant in the interior.

The chief advantages of a colony, in respect of commerce, exists in the colony itself; and the more it is floiu"ishiug and populous, the great(>r will be the advantages derived by the mother country. But when, besides the interior consumption, it offers a market and supplies of the greatest importance to the mother-country, how much ought such a colony to be vsdued ! Such is the case in which Louisiana is in relation to France. The inhabitants of the Western Settlements of the United States, entirely employed in agricultural labours, neither manufacture clothing nor furniture. Their intercourse with the maritime cities from which they obtain these necessary articles, presents innumerable difficulties; the land-carriage b.'ing both expensive and dangerous. How great would be the advantages gained by a depot, from which all their supplies might come by water, and where fhey could pay for them by the overplus of their territorial productions! New Orleans is this depot. Coffee, sugar, spicks, East and West India merchandize, would always sell there to advantage. The government cannot be JgMoiaut, how nuich the good understanding of the two countries depends on their commercial relations, and how advantageous it would be for France to preserve this good understanding with the Western States of America; which, from their character, opinions, and situation, will jjrobably soon become indepei!^i nt of the Northern States. Another branch of commerce, not less important, is that of furs and skins. [ have endeavoured in a former chapter to prove, with what facility I^iouisiana nugHt wrest this trade from Canada, on the whole of the right bank of the Mississippi: it will be less difficult to convince the reader, that we posses's, even over our rivals on the most northern lakes, an advantage of cent, per ceut,

Between the Missouri and the chain of mountains which are on the southern bank of the great Red River, whose waters rtow into the lake Owiniptke, is a part of the nation of Chistinous, to the number of five hundred warriors. The body of this natior>, to the number of ^15W warr: ors, is dispersed between the 30 and 55° north lat. and 120" west long, lietween the Missouri and the Red River, but more to the west, is tli<? river of the ()sseniboiu<;s, which seems to derive its waters from the lake Placotte; it flows into the river Catepoie, which has its mouth in the Red River, al a little distance from the lake Owinipike. The people tUat inhabit its banks, kuywn by the

I

08

DU lac's travp.i.s.

name of tlio Osseniboints, situated bctweou 48 and 50° nortli lat. and Hj"' long, arc kind and peaceable, and the number of tlieir warriors amount to five or six bundrtd.

More to tbe wtst, at tlie foot of tlie Orignal mountams, vbich separates the \val;rs of t!i(^ Missouri from those of the river Catepoie, are tl»e Ciiivitoans, to the number of two thousand: thev are situated between 44 and 4.5''nortli lat. and

1 ] 7° west

long.

J., ,.^ot .v.-o. at a little distance from the Missouri if we poceed towards the north, along the mountains which seem to divide the lakes from the Pacific Oc(n\n, we find, in the 50° lat. the nation of l*iegans, composed of one thousand warriors. In the same lataudc, but some degrees more to the west, the Sasacs, to tlie nuinUr of 4(K); the Picds-non^s, to the number of \jiiO ; and in the .31" the Castor nation, to the number of about si\ hundred.

xVll these nations, situated on different rivers, which all tlow into the river Oupaw, may easily trail-|)ort their skins to the lake Owinipike. On the river Oupaw, is the body of the Chistinous, mentioned above. Most of these nations consider the Whiles as superior beings, under the special protection of the Great Spirit. Near to the lake Owinipike, in the 57° lat. and 110" west long, are the Schipiwans, to the number of eight hundred warriors; and on the cast of the Owinipike, the Makigos, who amount to the same number.

From these nations the English oljtain the prmcipal part of their fine furs. In fact, instead of the thirty-six transportations by land, which they are obliged to employ to arrive at Lake Superior by that of Mechigaii, we can pass by one which is practicable during the whole jear : they have, besides, seventy others before they reach the lake Owinipike. Some of these transportations present so great obstacles, that it requires the greatest strength and courage to surmount them; and, notwithstanding all their activity, they never reach their dislination within a year. As .we could make a voyage from New Orleans in less than a year, that is to say, before those that have left Quebec or Montreal have reached the nations with whom they traffic, what a superiority should we possess!

Although no one has ascended to the source ot the Mississippi, the general opinion of travellers is, that it derives its waters from some of the norlh-westerii lakes. It so, we remain indispi.ted masters of tliis part of the continent; if otherwise, there is no doubt that a comminiication will shortly be found in the direction of the rivers that How into il. Then a single transi)ortatiou by land would be sutKcient, instead of one hundred and six, which impede the trade of the Kughsh. IJr.t if this mean fails, the Missouti offers to us another, th« faciiilv of whkh is certain.

'■«*>.

POLITICAL ADVANTAGES OF LOL'ISIANA.

99

TViis river, the navijjation of whicli is as uiiinlcriupted as that of the Mississippi, will atiord an easy paswge Ut the Owimpiki«. IJetutcn 105 and 110" west loiij?. and 43 and 4.'>" north lat. at a little distance frotr. the Missouri, is the riv(!r Pabinac, which has an opening into the npper part of the Ked Kiyer, which latter opens a direct cornnmnitatioii willi the Owinipike. A staple situated or. the in-.MTst part of the Missouri, would be suificient to insure a conununication witli the n^ er l*abinac; boats might there be built, and the nieiehandize would thus reach its destination with the greatest quickness This staple would :ilso serve to facilitate discoveries to the snuth-wcst of the Missouri, which would be of the iirst importance to commerce.

CHAP. XX.

LOUISIANA CONSIDEUKD IN A POLITICAL VIEW.— NECESSITY OF A L A RGE CoLO N Y FO U IKANCK.— DEPARTURE FROM NEW ORELANS.— FoU I' PIAOUEMINE,

BUILT BY M. D. C ARON D ELE T.—FO RT UOUUBON.

BALISE.—PILOT M A JOU.—EXC LU SIV E PRIVILEGE.

It is difficult to conceive whv Spain, in possession of both banks of the Mississippi, from die mouth ot the Ohio, should determine to give up one to the United States without being obliged by necessitv, the only motive that could excuse the cession of so important an advantage. In vam is advanced the impossibility of defending such an extensive territory : il ihis were sufficient reason, she ought also to have abandoned Louisiana and a great part of her other possesoicns in America, whicii are w itiiout means of defence and are only secure on account of the weakness of the suriouiiu ng nations. No one is ignorant that the invasion of a country is attended by hostilities, to which the United States neither ought nor could have exposed themselves at the moment when Spam shewed this impolitic

liberality. ,

The Spanish government can only be recompensed tor the vohnitarv abandonment winch was made of the right bank as far as die 32'^ of N. L. bv tl:e gratitude and attachment of her neighbours. But what is the gratitude of nations? A vague sentiment, wlueh the slightest motiv<.' of interest occasions to vanish; a painful voke, which is continually endeav( ured to be cast off, and which it is olten advantageous to break even at the expence of jnsti( c. It is a fact but too well proved, that policy and virUie cannot exist togdher; auit that every thing is subordinate to the respective strengtli of nations, or the caprices of those tliat govern them; that a wise government

N 2

=*>

]00

DU I.AC S TRAVRLS.

'%

(HV2]\t to found the basis of all thtir procerdinics on the interest or power of tl.eir nciu;hbours; iuid tli.tl thiit wliich (le|)int3 froiii these maxims will be accused of \v«'iikness or pusilhmiinity.

Spain, weak in Europe, and without force or consideration in Anierica, neither knows how to make herself feared or respeitc d. It requires a more vigorous arm to keep the Jicys of a barrier, on which depends the invasion of this part of the contineiit, and conset|iu;ntly the independence of the colonies, as soon as they shall lind neighbours powerful enough to protect them, and sufKcienliy industrious to supply their wants.

In vain it is advanced that the Americans arc not a warlike nation; that being o( eupied in agriculture and commerce, they do not think on aggrandizement; that the form of their government is opposite to all projects of concpiest; and lastly, that it is their int; rest to live in the most perfect harmony with Jhe powers of Europe. 1 reply, they are not warlike, because they h;ive not a superabundance of men; and tiiat if the system of the government appears at the moment opposite to all aggrandizement, it is not less prudent to provide against the (changes \>hi'jh may happen in its policy ; and from the revolutions which threaten America, a new system may arise, which will make tlieni occupy a rank in the political balance of the world, which they have not hitherto done.

Another, no lesi important consideration for France, is, the Iieccssity of m huge colony, to which she might send the overplus oi her population. All well-governed nations among whom comun rce and the arts have flourished, soon obtain a sup(rabundant population, which not tinding a snflicienl subsistence in their own country, must emigrate in search of new settlen)ents.

The Komans had numerous colonies; the Greeks also in their prosperity founded many. 1'lie people of the north, too numerous, invaded ihc south ; and in times less remote we Jiaye seen all the great powers of Europe hil tcumtiies, of imjTiense extent, and which before had been di serts, without any f-ensibJe decrease of the ir population. Thus Holland has carriett licr industry to the two Indies, where she possesses large colonies ; and Jilngland, the '.east populous state in Europe, has creuteu new kingdoms, which contain more subjects than herself. Erarice alone is deprived of this resource. No part in thi' wi)iid seejns Intter suited for this purpose t'an Louisiana| >vl!ere every vpteits of intlustry cannot fail of success.

It is no longer doubted that the new continent m ill at some |"utuie period bo independent of the old. Tlie lands are toq

fertile, an populatioi only by im ^:ainiot prt and consci

After a I 'piitted pressing ir I'lie vessel Spanish c below Ne 'i'he lands of the tov attended t year innnd

Sixty ni during tlu Carondele a battery towards th a battery these two men, com

From Mississipj: that there the pilot-i all ships e was grant navigators petitors to It is the to the laiM on accoui the mouth The acci if the p apprentice ships at so

Anodie K...gof Sj maintains accidents.

Those ( attention i to cuter tl

DEPARTTRF. FR» M Nl-W ORLEANS.

101

fertile, and the climate too gciiiul, not to attract n numerous population, which will not fail to bnak the yoKc, ihut is lionie only by iinhfiilily. I'VancL-, by ol)tuiniii^ possession of L >nisiana, ^:ainiot prevent this olJ'tct, necessary from tli(> ucressiou of time anil consciousness of strength ; but she will iet.ud it.

After a residence of more tlmt two mouths in \t>w O.lcau'j, I quitted it on the C^th of Dtcunber, nolwithsiai.dt.ig tho pressing invitations of my friends, and the dauiiersof the season. The vessel in which I embarked, bound for Bourdeaux, curried Spanish colours, and was culled La Mexicana. 'I'lu; country below New Orleans became level as we dcseendiil the river. 'J'he lands on both banks arc well cultivated withm twenty miles ot the town; but beyond that distance small portions are only attended to, on account of the whole being a great part of the year inundated by the river.

Sixty miles below New Orleans is fort Plaquemine, erected during the government and under the diie-tion of Buion de Carondelet. Tort Plaquemine, strongly built of brick, presents a battery of twelve long pieces of camion on l)oth sides towards the river. Fort Bourbon, on the opposite bank, has a battery which crosses that of Plaquemine : the giurison of these two posts is coujuosed of from eighty to one hundred men, connnanded by a lieutenant-colonel.

From Plaquemine to Jialise, the last Spanish port on the Mississippi, the country is uninhabited, and the land so low that ihere can never be any estabilishmcnts formed. At B disc the pilot-major resides, who has the exclusive right of pilolting all ships either to or from New Orelan*. U'his privilege, Vi hich Mas granted by the Spanish government, is very injurious to navigators. The pilots under his connnand, having no competitors to fear, only go uut wlien the vessel is near the port. It is the more injurious to coinn;erce, because the apprc/uch to the lai'd in this part of the gulf is extremely dangerous, both on account of the violence ot" the winds, and the 'number of the mouths of the Mississippi, which often deceive nr.vigators. The accidents which ha^jpen Mould be in part prevented, if the pilotage was free to all that had served a regular apprenticeship: the love of gam would induce them to go to ships at some miles from the coast.

Anodier inconveiiieiiee of exclusive privileges is, that the K...g«;f Spain, who is charged with all the expenees of pilotting, maintains no vessels proper to assist those that meet with accidents.

Those that navigate in these latitudes ought to pay particular attention to the point of the compass in which it is proper to cuter the pty t. The pilot assured me, that ou account of the

103

DV lac's travels,

pallors not attondiiv.'; to tliis, so mnny arri(1«^n<s liapprnrd. Tlif prudc'it liuvi^ator nin«l ioiutMii!)cr to enter llio eliuiinel when III" sees die t(»\vn of llalisc to tlu; ikm tli-west.

Th«; Kin'j;of Spniu iiiaiiilains at Balise a <iaiiison of twenty nifii, prineipallv <lesi;-ne;l lor tlic service of the custoin-liouse, auottieer beloiiiiiiii; to wliieh goes on l.oard ever> ship eiitei.nc? or departing. Tlit^rt are also twenty ni« n under the order o\ the i/iiot-inajor, |>aid and ke[)tas soldiers: tliev nuiy, however, quit lluir eniploy at pleasure, providtd that tiu-iv services are ;,..t iiu'iediat'.iy req-.iind, and that they owe nolhini Tins last eondil'ou uenerallv li>:es them i'r many years: the pi'')!

nii tilt

ajor ta'uiii.;t:are to keep them always dependanf, h, ;y.«ppl\in'; tjMi with spirits, of which lliey couhume large quunlilics.

CHAP. XX[.

A

LHK OF GEOUGE AlGl'STlIS COWLF.S.

M l^RirA, rdthough populous for many yea-s, has prodnced vtry few men wliose nanus are desersing of beinp; transiiiitti'd to posterilv ; Franklin and VVashinst</n are p(Mhaps the only ones to whom it can hoast of having given birth. I hope for pardon in relaliu',' the life of one, wlio, by the originahtj of I'.is chariu ter, the extent of his knovvledj;c, the vast projects lie lias conceived, and those that he has executed, merits particular attention

Geoi-oe Au-ustus Bowles was born in Maryland, one of the United States; his father, an Englishman by birth, hud amassed a considerable property, and enjoyc d the esteem of Ins fellowcitizens, anions . hum he had an h'.mojiral.le rank. V\ hen the war broke out in I77."i between Ki>;;land and the United States, Bowie,, though yet a boy, ran after the adventures of a mduary life, for which nature seemed to have designed him. It would be diflicnit to ailed-- the reasons that deternuned hnn to prefer th- English party to that of his native country. Jt is probable that the elegance and go'-tl discipline of the EHoh>h regiments, alone determined his choice. At the age of dnrtecn^he offered himself a volunteer to an English regiment of infaulrv, and was admitted. After a year's service he was received among the Loyalists of r.J!'r)l:ind, commanded by Cfdonel James Chalmers', a man distinguished for his great talents, his fortune, and attachment to the mother country

Having embarked in 1777 with his regimt::it, in wh:oh he bad obtaineil the rank of an officer, he arrived at Pensacola in Florida, w here, on account of negligence, he was deprived of his comniission. Far from feeling uneabinesS; he supported hiS'

/

LTFE OF OEORGE AITOISTUS HOWLKS.

103

ir.isfortur vxithiiidifTerenco and even jwy. H;'vii^g passed liis yoiiiU in :hu muisl of luiests, auil oif i!a- tVouticrs of suvag«'s, In; contraclrd an ».".uly att;i< l)in» nt to llu'ir mcx'e of llvln,. Ik' rctinil anjonj; ihe Creek Ii.diun-*, ..nd married cne ot" their uonu'U. During tlie war lietween Iui^>;i;ind and Spain, in 1779, l-t-* p'llicularly distinguished liinit,i'' bv his cdol intrepidity ai.d siiptiionty of ffonins. Tht; coii.slant friend of l!i • Kii-^lish, he jier^iKuIrd his hi()thei-U!irriors to p;ii to the assistance of Pensaeola, which vas then Ijesiegeil by llic Spanianls. He entert^d the town at the head of a party whieh he liad raised, and eonducted himself as au able eoniniander. The attaek of Mobile affordediiim a fresh opportunity of distinction : the ap))lauses which iie deservedly received; engaged Col. Campbell to offer hini the command of a company, which he accepUd ; but, in a short tiiu'., was deprived of <t by a court-martial, and was on the point of being aeutenced to deaih, for having, at the head of the army, threatened one of his superior '.fticers. Disgusted with the European service, he rctmne<l to his iViends, with whom he had left his children, as a pledge of hi.- love and fidelity. AUhou.,11 not yet nineteen, he had inspire i them with such a veneralioa for hh:\, and was so admired by them, that he was called " the beloved warrior."

He remained with them a whole ;'car, during which he was not inactive. The advice which he gave them, and the new means of defence and attack in which he instructed them, will insure to them, in cape of necessity, a decided superiority over their enemies. Incapable of remaining hmg inactive, he set out to visit the coasts of Florida. After travelliii'^ over them, he eujbarked for Providence, where he solicited arms and amuumition for his nation. Having obtained ihem, he returned in jspite of'.very obstacle to tiie Creeks. He then embarked with some of his intrepid companions in a tiiuispoit ship, and crossed with them into the gulf of Florida, where he captured many Spanish ships, bound for the Havaunah and New Orleans.

The Spanish govcrrnient^ obstructed in her commerce by an enemy hitherto (iespi3i,yd, covered Jicmselves with disgrace by offering a reward for his head. However, notwithstanding the subtilty of S])ain, Uovvles continued to keep the sea with advantage.

iJeing invested Nv his tribe witli an unlimited authority, ho was after the peace cf 17S3, indefatigable in improving the lot of his brothx-^r-warriors. Threatened in 178.5 by a war with the inhabitants oi Georgia, whose assembly liad sold some lands belonging to the Creeks, he set out for /Vigusta, where the States were held. After taking every p.ccaution, and being as

4

ipr^

1Q4 DW lac's TRAVr.LS.

sure<l by the inliabitants tliat lie had nothing to fear from tliom,. he returned and informed his friends. For their greater security, he |)ro}>osed a g(-iierai league vvi'h the other Indian nations, from riorida to Canada: and ambassadors were immediately sent to make proposals, which were unanimously agreed to.

EtTectuallv ti) support these measures, Bowles, with all the monevthat he had t:>kon from the Spaniards, set out lor St. Auiiustine, and from tiience he proceeded to Providence. On Iiis'nturnin 1787, how great was his astonishment, when he vas informed that the Span-ards had, during his absence, treated with the Creek chiefs, among whom tliey had distributed sonic silver medals, on their engaging to wage war against the Gcorsians, and had al.-ady supplied them wuh arm3 and ammunition! He easily made a^^pear to them the cousequeiics of their conduct; and on his entreatv they sent back tiie medals to li.e governor, whose haired ior Bowles mcrcased in proportion to \\\e supposed affront.

The war between England and Spain, which was on the point of breaking out, not yet having taken place, and the Georgians tenrainiim' ni a state of inaction, Bowles seized this opportunity to put his long-planned project into . xecution ; which was to d.clare the ports of xApalachicola, Oakwelakre, and Tampc, free to all commercial nations.

'Jo ensure success to this design, he smrt seven hundred warriors to ApaKichicola and Tampe, and went himself to Oakwelakre, where some Spsiiiish emissari»\s endeavoured to assassinate him; but the atten!|tt onlv occasioned an attack on the i\paloches, a small Spanish post' in Florida, and which he laid under contribut'ion. Thus did this g, jai man employ all his taculties to discipline, Instruct, and civilize a nnmereus and brave people, whith would soon have ranked among civilized nations, if the basejcalousv of Spain had not counteracted his generous designs. Bowles hccnme so odious to Spain, that she resolved to destroy him at anv price.

Two Spanish officers, named Ilevia and Koiisseau, undertook to dishonour themselves in the sight of the wIk.Ic worhl, by seconding \hv "Dverfiment in the disgraceful measures which were rcsolv.^d u\m\. These two men were sent to him with a letter frcM the governor of Louisiana, who said, that he had order» from his govt^rnmeiit, io trtat wilh him on the disputes subsisting btt\\eon the Creek lndi::ns and the court oi Spam; and that, in ordir to ficilitate tlie negociation, he had sent a ship with t\.o oH'iecrs appointed to conduct I iin to New Oi ^ Itiiis, where he would oj^erience every civility, and be treated with the aflention he justly merited. i)n these assiuniic s, he depart,d for New Oilcans, and waited i»p<jn the goveinor, who

«(

LIFE OF GEORGE AUGUSTUS BOWLES.

105

received him with every external mark of friendship. But when lie began to discuss matters with him, relative to the interests of his nation, he pretended that he had not authority to agree to some of the most important articles ; and, notwithstanding the national honour pledged by the two officers, he sent Bowles to the Havannali, and shortly after to Spain.

On his arrival at Madrid, the Spanish government endeavoured to seduce him by a large fortune, and a briUiant post in the armv, both which Bowles rejected with indignation. To this Spain added a new artifice. An alcaide informed him, that the king had appointed two commissaries at Cadiz, to treat with him, and that to c»id all difficulties, he must repair thither immediately. After a detension of eight months in the capital, he arrived at Cadiz, where he was confined for a whole year. During this interval, a proposal was made to him as foUoNvs :— " A messenger," says he, in a letter to one of his friends, '* came one day and informed me, that if I would write to the Duke of Alcerdia, and accuse the Counts of Aranda and Florida Blanca, of ill treatnient to me, 1 should be brought back to court, and my business finished to my satisfaction. The indignation that I felt on hearing this, cannot be easily easily exjpressed ; 1 commanded the messenger not to repeat it on pain of feeling my dnpleasure. * In that case,' replied he, ' you must prepare to visit the Philippines.'

" A few da\s subsequent to this infamous proposal," adds he, " I was conducted on board of a vessel, without knowing whither I was bound: I was sent to Lima by Cape Horn, without any preparation for my voyage, almost naked, and in the coldest season of the year." Here the same propositions were renewed which had been made in Spain. They were rejected, and he was embarked for Manilla ; where he arrived on the 27th of November, 179J. In 1797, he was again embarked for Europe; but, at the isle of Ascension, he eluded the vigilance of his guards, and escaped to Siena Leone, where he procured a passage to l^undon. _ /. • i

On his arrival in England, Bowles was destitute of articles of the first importance ; but being informed that Mr. Pitt was at \N'aliner Caslle, he went thither, and remained theix many days, (luring which he recovered from his fatigues. Being provided with a letter written by Mr. Pitt, he waited on the Duke of Porthuul, who kindly received him, and who supplied all his wants. Loaded with the khidness of government, which afforded him all the aid that he required for his nation, he departed, MWi a long residence in England, with the desigu of wreaking his vengeance on a deceitful i;overxmjent, lUat had imprisoned ami ill treated him.

lih lac] O

106

DU LAC*S TRAVELS.

Since .ha. time he ^^Zlt^^'^Z^eM 1"^^

»^7";i^L?.r\e^Cched " he Ap^aohe,. drove .he Spanish Mdcrable party, he maiched to 1^^ foruficaUon., and re

garrison from .he fort, o«sttojea toe ,„„, of New

l,ained in po»,«sK,n of the P^-^-fj;',r.I advisable . Orleans sent reinforcements, wnicn ne um

"ffi^-is .a,|. well n.ade. and of a P«r«-f | 'PPear

the science, •"=*«;'»'i°.'?,:^^-'™o 'an ne of thei scie.K:es. r'to„%Tavt1eSed"1hrh'gh^^^ He jeaks

T? ucinnnUh and all the dialects ot the savages in this part ^^t"^c!Sn nt: wUh as much facility as his native tongue, ^^i'u^itrto^the qualities of the body those of Uje niind

■I cannot conclude this abridgment of hi jte, J^^^nout re lotin« 91 trait which proves this last assertion m the clearest latmg a trait, ^^"'^ F ^ ^^ j ^1 betrayed him, and

manner. One «fj^^. 7//^;^'^^^ reward of-his treachery, 7eU iSf tl%S' tV S riTisrJlors seemed in no hurry ; If tn his assistance. Bowles was sitting at the poop of l^ship ^n deerXtion; but, he no sooner perceived the

wSt who had betrayed him struggling with the waves

F^^^^^^^^^^^^ rthr^roT^:

hV\Ut?d,i:f enough to be hea.. by the ..ola crew " 1 ouch, oerhaps .o revenge your perhdj; but hve, ="« «Jmbef.hS. yoS owe your life .o the n.an whom you have deprived of lib jrty.

Bj

\

Ca

ENR OF DU lac's TRAVELS.

£n

1

(

INDEX TO DU LAC'S TRAVELS.

A,

.MERICAN females, their character preferable to that of the men, ^•.—Americans, character, manners, and customs of tJicse inhabiting the maritime province^J 29. —Adveiitnre, account of a singular, 53—Arkansas, description of the rivtr and village of the, S3; fertility of the soil, 83.—Assembly of' the state at Lancaster, account of the, 32 J its manufHctories, &c. 3fJ.

Baltimore, its population and important commerce, 24.—Hears, hiack,

description of hunting them, 61

Bowles, G. A. biography of this lemarkable man, 102; his retirement among the Creek Indians, his marriajre with one of their women, 103. —I)rov.n, Col. his propensity for solitude, 39

Calumet-dance, description of the, 75. -—Canada, its increa<iing prosperity since it hag been in tlie possesjion of the Engl sh, 54.—Chaguyenne Indians, coolness and firm resolution in the most perilous moments, 72.—Chawanons, account of ihe savages, 45 ; liomaere paid by them to the Suprem-! Being, 46; treatment of tlieir prisoners, ii. courtship among them, 47.—Cincinnati, the grand depot for ;ill the merchandize of tlie back settlements, 40.—Constitution, American, partial sketch of the, 27.—Cottages, structure of some Indian, 4<l — Creoles of Louisiana, account of the, yo.—Crozat M. dc, his attempt to establis!) a colony in the province of Louisiana, 86.

English, their fur-trade witli the savaae-i of r.oui.sianii, <I8—Enalish, the importance of theirfur-trade with the savag's of Canada, 55.—Objects of this trade, tb.

Fur-trade, brief account of tlw, 57—France, necessity of her possessLnj a large colouy in Louisiana, 100.— French, their monoply of the %•trade on the right bank of ihe Miisissippi, 56.—Federal city, account of ti>e, it's situation, 2.5—Extrpvagant plan of the palace of the Congress, tb.

Gcnevie^•e, St. account of the establishment of, 44. — Government, the Spanish, it's conduct towards the natives of Louisiana, 95.

Halitanes, their encounter with a party of Chaguyennes, 72,-^«arris-' burg, dismal appearance of tlie titita and its vicmity, 34..

Iberville, his attempts to establish a settlement on the Mississippi rea.. dered abortive, 88 ; his unfortunate dtatli, ,b.—Indigo, frequent destrraction of a fine crop of tliis plant by a peculiar insect, 86.

Jefferson, Mr. public character of, '27.—Junction of the Missouri with the Mississip))!, description of that phenomenon, 49.

Kan^es, account of this Indian tribe, 50—Kentucky, its trade and com.' merce, 41.

Lancaster, the coupty of, exreFlen c of the soil, remarks on tl»e inliabitants, kVc. .')4.— Lexington, topographical dcs riptiou, its trade, &c. -^i.—Life, civilized and savage con tr.tsted, SO.—Louis, St. its situation, fertility of soil, &c. 48 .

Louisiana, Upper, the government of, ST; it'* importance to S|iaiu greatly lu^glectwl, 5H; the trade witli the savaires carried on by exclusive privileges. »A.—LouisiaiiH, produce and comuurcc of the coitu'

nfDF.X.

trrr exforts and Imports, 90, 9.; its trade with the H.vaniiali and Mexico, 9J, 9.3.—l.ouisi»iiia, general smvev of the countiy, its prod....t,o..s: &o. 96; commercial ad^anta-fs to be derived irom this coloviy, ,7,.—T-ouibiaua. considered h, a politiriil view, 99; cxtvaordi■aiy conduct of the Spanish fjovernBiout in ahandonin? this province anil other p sscssions in Ai-iciica. jWaniac, account ol an iiiteic»yn{f, il'3 —Maple suRar, account of its origin, method of ohtaining u. 59— Methodists, account of them, tticir ceremonies, &.c. <.'2.-Mississippi, account of the, rapidity of thVcnrrent, 43.-Missonri, account ef the nations inhabitniK the bank^ •f the, ."36.—Missouri, acconnt ot the ^aviiVcs of Ipper, 6>; their ■belief, Horsh p, and relipious cerenuMiies, 6'\; their manners, in(.de ot livintr, 66.—Missouri, dios ot the aiivaa.<!S. customs, and manners, 18 ; summary of their persons, "9. Katvehez, topography of the town, 83; importance of its commerce with the southern provinces, /ft.—Natchitoches, account of the settlement of, 8,j.—Newark, account of the to'vn, 12.—Newfoundland fishery, description of the; its importunce, 4._Ne\v York, arrival at, topoirapl.ical description, &.c. 6.--~Ktfects of the Yellow Fever, 7.—Irade of the city, 9. Ohio, coin-se of the" river, "7.—Ototatocs, biave.rv of a younv. chict ot the 7".—Ox-diuK-e, description ot this siiort, 77.—Orleans, New, destiuetioi. of the town twice by firc Bi^.—lnstaiicettf the absurdity ot tV.r t go>er..or, tb.

Panis, the Grent. remarks on ♦^.^cln,,i,,ns, :,.2._PeaC«, proceedings ot the >^avases in concludint, treaties, 73; manner of bearing the calumets, r5.-Philadelphia, arrival at, topftsraphical description ot the town. 17—Philadelphia, population of, 18; trade, public buildings, 5^,, iq._pittsburg, short account of'the town, 3C..—Point* Coupee, its dclicbtful situation, and culture of cotton, 85—Plants peculiar to Louisiana, 60.—PUiqucminc fort, survey of the country hence to Bb' lise 101.-Poncas nation, account of the, 6.3.-Potowmac, Us umon with the Bay of Chesapeak, 25.— Priviltpes, exclusive inconvenience* arising from them, K'lQuakers, description of their funeral rites, 17; general accomit Ot them, 21. RevTngc, the principal passion of the

savapres, 81. Sava-cs, their amours md marriasrcs; their eiiucaUon, aO.—Scalp-dance, description of the, 71.-Scioux, striking example of justice by the, 67; their preparations previous to coin^ to war, 70—Shires, consideraticvi.s on the, 93.-Skins, their »alue^ 51.—Solitude, singular propensity for, 39—Spain, proof of her imbecility, lOO.—Sun-d.nnce, celebration of this festival, 76. Treoton, its trade and commrrre, I.'i. —Virginia, iTdnibitants of th.; parts behind, 38. \Va\-tree, description of tjc, 87.— Wat«-hita, accn.int of the settlement of, its excellcnl sitiuitiO»,»oil, &.C. Si.

>,