* * * MAY LIE'S * * *

TABLE D1 HOTE RECIPES

And the History and Some Facts

Concerning

'.,

~ ~

"LA MAISON MAYLIE ET ESPARBE"

* * * COMPILED AND WRITTEN BY

Eugenic Lavedan Maylie









Alphabetical Index by Classification

Page

C o f f e e ------- ·-------------------------- ·----3 4

Cafe Brulot --------··----------------------------------- 34

Cafe Royale ------------------------------------------- 34

Coffee, Dripped ---------------------------------- 34

F o w l and M e a t s _________________ l4

Beef, Boiled, Mme. Esparbe's________________ 5

Beef Roast and Mint Jelly ________________________ 19

Beefsteak, Mme. Esparbes Broiled or

Filet Mignon aux Cepes ___________________ 15

Brains au Beurre Noir _________________________ 18

Chicken, Fricasse of, au Chou-Fleur ___ 16

Chicken, Fried Spring, a la Lula,

Southern Style ------------------------------------ 14

Chicken, Sauce Blanche au Capres _______ 16

Daube Glace ---------- -------------------------------- 14

Daube, Mme. Esparbe's Beef, and

Macaroni au Gratin ---------------------------- 15

Duck, Muscovy, with Oyster Dressing 14

Duck, Baked Mallard ---------------------------- 19

Duck, Wild, stewed with turnips________ 17

Goose, Roast with Oyster Dressing ___ 14

Jambalaya a la Creole __ ------------------------- 18

Lamb and Turnip, Bonne Managere ___ 18

Lamb Roast, Leg of, and Mint Jelly____ 19

Liver, Whole Suckling Calf, or

Smothered Calf Tongue -------------------- 17

Macaroni and Cheese ________ ____ ________________ 15

Poulet a la Creole ------------------------------------ 16

Quail, Braized ------------------------------------------ 19

Rabbit (Civet de Lapin) ------------------------ 19

Roux, Brown or White ------------------------ 5

Sauce, Brown Butter --------------------------------- 18

Sauce, Picquante ----------------------------------- 5

Spaghettini en Casserole a l'ltalienne ___ 15

Squab, Broiled on Toast ________________________ 19

Stew, Giblet, a la Campagne _______________ 16

Sweetbread, Mme. Esparbe's Fricassee,

or Ris De Veau aux Champi.lmons ___ 17

Tongue, Smothered Calf, or Whole

Suckling Calf Liver --------------------------- 17

Tripe a la Creole ----------------------------·------- 17

Turkey, Roasted Capon or, with .

Chestnut and Pecan Dressing ______ _____ 14

Veal Blanquette --------------------------------------- 14

Veal Grillade and Grits ------------------- --·-- 17

Veal Pocket, Stuffed, a la Maylie ______ _____ 18

Veal Round, Stuffed, a Ia Nouvelle

Orleans _____________________________ ·----------------- - 15

Veau, Fraise de, a la Carondelet ________ ____ 18

Venison, Stewed (Cuison de Chevreuil) 19

0 m e l e t t e s _________ _________________ _26

Oeufs, des. au Diable (Deviled Eggs) ____ 26

Omelette, Crayfish, a Ia Tomate ____________ 26

Omelette, Plain, Souffle au Rum ________ 26

Omelette, Souffle aux Huitres

(Puffy Oyster Omelette) -------------------- 26

Omelette, Spanish ------------------------------------ 26

S a l a d s and ·D r e s s i n g s _26

Apple Salad ------------------------------------- 26

Page

Chicken, in Avocado Cups -------------------- 27

Creole Salad Bowl -------------------------------- 27

Mayonnaise, Avocado ---------------------------- 28

Potato ____________________ c__________________________________ 27

Shrimp Remoulade ---------------------------------- 27

Spring Salad, Curly Shrimp, Romaine

and Watercress · ------------------------------------ 27

S e a f o o d s ------------------------------ 9

Bacalao, Mme. Esparbe'~ ---------------·---·---- 10

Bouillabaise, Creole -------------------------- ----- 9

Courtbouillon --------------------------------- __________ 9

Crab, Pontchartrain, and Creole Rice___ 10

Crabs, Soft Shell, Tante Therese's Fried 11

Crabs, Stuffed, Creole ----- ·---------------------- 10

Crayfish, Whiskied, Boiled ----· --·------------ 12

Mackerel, Spanish, a Ia Poydras __________ 10

Oyster, May lies, St. Jacques __ ________________ 11

Oyster, Vol-au-vent ___ -----------·-------·-------- 11

Oyster en Brochette .. . __ -·------·-···--- ----- 12

Oysters Rockefeller ______ ---------· -· ----------- 12

Pompano, · Broiled, with Drawn

Butter Sauce ----·---------------·------------------- 9

Rice, Creole Sty]e .. ________ ______ ____ ____________ 10

Sauce, Vinaigrette, Maylie's Redfish ___ 9

Sauce, Tartar ----- -------·------------· ·----------------- 11

Shellfish, Melba ___ _____ ___ __ __________ _______ ___ 12

Sole, or Caspurgot and Tartar Sauce____ 10

Truite, Baked Filet de, with Mushrooms

and White Wine Gravy _____ __ 12

s 0 u p s ---------------------------------------- 6

Bisque, Crayfish ----------- --------------------------- 8

Croutons ----------------------------------------------------- 6

Egg, a la Paysanne ----------------------------·--- 6

Greens, Collard ____ .. ______ --- --------------------- 6

Gumbo, File, Crayfish ______ ______________________ 7

Gumbo, Shellfish ---------"- ------------------------- 7

Leek and Potato Puree ------------------------ 7

Onion ___ .... __ ____ ··- ····-----------·- ···· 6

Pea, Lentil or Split Pea Puree________________ 6

Turtle (Soup a la Tortue) ____________________ 7

Vegetable, Creole or Julienne ----------~----- 6

Sweet Entremets and Desserts __ .29

Apple Ambrosia, Whiskied, Baked _ ·---- 30

A~ple Souffle ____ _____ _ ______________________ 30

Beignets Souffle, Leonies ---------------------- 31

Belles Callas __________ . __ -------- ---------------~---- 32

Biscuits, Mme. Esparbes ------------------------ 33

Bread, Liquored Cracklin ··------c-------------- 30

Cake. Fresh Pineapple Wine ____________ 32

Candy --------------------------- ----------------------------- 3 3

Cookies, Plantation -------------------------------- 32

Cornbread, Tante Ophelia's Plantation 33

Cream Cheese, Frozen ---------------------------- 33

Cream, Custard ---------------------------------------- 30

Cream, French ---------------------------------------- 29 ·

Crepe Susette -------------------------------------------- 32

Custard, Caramel a la Vanille ---------------- 31·

Dates, Stuffed, Glace --------------------------- 33

Floating Island, Strawberry ---------------- 29

Sweet Entremets and Desserts-

(Continued) ______ ___ ___________________ 29

Frostings, Never-Fail ---------------------------- _ 34

Gingerbread, Pecanned Soft, or

Gateau Melasse -----------------------------------· _ 31

Ice Cream, Vanilla with Crushed

Fruit ------------------------------------------------------ 3 3

La Colle (Candy) ------------------------------------ 33

Muffins, One-Two-Three-Four Cake _____ 33

Peaches, French Stewed and

French Cream ---------------------------------------- 29

Pie, Louisiana Sweet Potato and Pecan 32

Pie, Whiskied Prune _____________________ _________ 30

Plaintain au Caramel __________________ _________ 29

Potato, Peach Compote, Sweet _____ ______ 29

Potatoes, Sweet Candied __________ __________ __ 29

Pralines, New Orleans ---------------------------- 34

Pudding aux Etages -------------------------------- 31

Pudding de Giraumont (Cashaw

or Pumpkin) ---------------------------------------- 29

Ris au Lait, Mme. Esparbes (Milk Rice) 32

Salad; Fresh Fruit, in White Wine ________ 31

Sauce, Butterscotch and Almond____________ 30

Sherbert, Purple Pluni ---------------------------- 33

Strawberry Strudel -------------------------------- 30

Page

V e g e t a b l e s __________________ ________ _22

Beans, Mme. Esparbes Ham and Lima 23

Beans, Navy, au jus d' Agneau__________________ 23

Beans, Pole and Smoked Pork ---------------- 22

Beans, Red, and Rice Albert _______ _________ 22

Beans, String, Jardiniere _ _____ __ ___ ____ _ 23

Broccoli, Cheesed, in Drawn Butter________ 25

Brussel Sprouts, Baked, au Gratin _______ 25

Cabbage, Creole, and Corn BeeL ______ :__ 22

Cabbage, Stuffed ------------------------------------- 22

Carrots au Beurre ------------------------------------ 24

Cauliflower au Gratin --------------------------- 24

Chou-Croute au Pork, Mme. Esparbes____ 22

Congri, or Cowpeas, Corn, Ham

and Rice --------------------------------------------------- 23

Corn, Young, in Creole Sauce__________ ______ 22

Eggplants, Stuffed ------------------------------------ 24

Ham Mousse---------------------------------------------- 23

Mirletons (vegetable pears) Stuffed _______ 24

Peas, Bonne Femme and Ham________________ 23

Pomme de Terre, Souffle

(Puffed Potatoes) ----------------------- _______ 24

Potato, Irish, Croquettes ------------------------ 24

Spinach, Fresh and Eggs ------------------------ 24

Squash au Beurre ------------------------------------ 24

Squash, Stuffed ----------------------~----------------- 24

Tomatoes, Fried or Broiled, Creole 25

















Price: 65c per Copy.

A Short History of Poydras Street

The land that is now Poydras Street and its environs

was originally a small part of a tract owned by the

Jesuit Fathers over 200 years ago. It was then

named the Faubourg Ste. Marie. In 1763 this faubourg,

or suburb, then valued at $180,000, was parcelled

into plantation sites and sold. One of these

plantations, established by Bertrand Gravier, in

April, 1778 and bearing his name, was among them.

The Gravier Plantation covered the territory that

is now bounded by Tchoupitoulas, South Claiborne,

Howard and Gravier Streets.

At Bertrand Gravier's death, his brother Jean inherited

the property, and completed, by 1797, the

task of dividing it into squares, streets and lots.

A vacant portion of the land was reserved for the

public, named "Place Gravier," through which in

later years Baronne Streets was opened. Other streets

were cut through, one of which was originally called

Phillipa, now known as Dryades.

Poydras Street was reserved for a canal at its far

end, and for a market place in its center.

The Poydras Street market place stood for nearly

a century, and was only recently demolished. In

its place is a neutral ground flanked by two wide

streets.

At the corner where Dryades intersects Poydras is

the century and a quarter old building that houses

Maylies Restaurant. Little change has taken place

in the appearance of the old building. Its red brick

walls, iron grill work balcony, deep silled and shuttered

windows are typical of the style of architecture

of its period. It is believed that the building was once

part of the Gravier Plantation.





Maylie' s

TABLE D'HOTE

Recipes

And the History and Some Facts

Cotzcerning

I I

"LA MAISON MAYLI E ET ESPARBE"

Compiled and Written By

EUGENIE' LAVEDAN MAYLIE'

Daughter-in-Law of the Co-Founder

of Famous Ma~lie'' s Restaurant

Located at Poydras and Dryades

in New Orleans

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

No part or parts of this

book may be reproduced

without express permission

of the Author.













Mayliils

TABLE D'HOTE RECIPES

And The History And Some Facts

Concerning

"LA MAISON MAYLIE' !T ESPARBE' "

The beginning was very simple, as is the start of almost every

great institution of a city. Sixty-nine years ago Messrs. Bernard

Maylie and Hypolite Esparbe had a coffee stall in the Poydras

Market. Their patrons were butchers, milkmen, and men

who in those days bought their cattle on the hoof, rising as early

as one and two o'clock in the morning to select their meat at

the stockyards. As business flourished it was decided, in 1876,

to move their business over to its present location, which was

then a billiard room and Cafe or Saloon. A short while later the

billiard room was abandoned, and in its place a wine cellar or

cave was installed.

By this time the friendship of these two partners was cemented

by their marriage to two sisters. Mr. Maylie having occasion

to visit Mme. Marie Esparbe's home in France, became

acquainted with her sister Anna, bringing her back to America

as his bride. Incidently, both these sisters were well-acquainted

with the art of cooking through their parents, who were innkeepers

in France.

With the help of their wives it was agreed to arrange an 11

o'clock lunch or "petit dejeuner" to appease the rav.enous appetites

of their daily patrons. Then it was found that Mme.

Esparbe was a very good cook and the little dining room arranged

beside the bar was soon filled to overflowing.

By now, 1894, Mr. Maylie's family having increased, larger quarters

were in need, and so it was they built on the adjoining lot

leaving an alley-way between the two buildings. In this spot

about midway between the buildings was a wisteria vine growing

up around the corner house.

So pleased were the patrons and a limited number of friends

in these delicious breakfasts that permission was asked to invite

others. After some deliberation and under much persuasion

Maylie and Esparbe decided to inaugurate a strictly Stag

Table d'Hote dinner. The soup-meat (bouilli) served at this





repast added further lustre to the fame of the house. To this

day this feature has been maintained. A stag dining room was

established in the new building, this same being still in use. It

must be remembered that at that time this large room was used

for the combined purpose of a wine cave and dining room. A

long table was placed in the center, and casks of assorted wines

and liqueurs were in view on either side. There was also a wellremembered

set of shelves of generous proportions, which held

bottled wines and liquors well-known to the connoisseur.

The tout-ensemble gave one the idea of the well-known French

caves. In contradistinction to other table d'hotes in this city,

coffee was not served at the dinner table but partaken of at the

cafe or bar. A quaint custom was to first buy one's ticket for

the meal at the bar and later to have it collected at the table

before the meal was completed.

In 1903 William H. Maylie succeeded to the management of the

business together with his father and uncle. In 1907 the death

of Mr. :M:aylie and in 1912 that of Mr. Esparbe caused no interruption

to the business as Mrs. Maylie and Mrs. Esparbe carried

on with the Maylie sons as managers, they being "Willie" and

"Johnny" to half the city's business men and bon vivants. John

managed the dining room, Madame the kitchen and to William

belonged the task of buying and running the "business" side of

the enterprise. Whatev·er delicacies he found were sure to be

served before many days went by.

It was soon decided again to make another improvement by joining

and enclosing the two buildings to care for the increasing

trade. The question of saving the wisteria was much discussed

aR Mme. Esparbe would not hear of it being cut down. The

vine even then had become a tree-like bulk with its stems running

around both buildings which showered fragrance over the

entire market section when the lavender blossoms came out in

Spring. Mme. Esparbe stood her ground and was rewarded

with a glass roofed enclosure and a hole through which her

beloved vine could still continue to spread.

Because of the fact that one could remove his coat and· tie · at

these stag dinners and enjoy an informal meal served at ·the

long table, where platters of food were placed before them and

the patron could help himself, this establishment became a popular

place where race horse followers, prominent business men,

and many tourists and visitors became regular customers.

Another drawing card was the wine served without a limit,

which is still remembered as one of the good things before "prohibition."

When this last was put into force the wine cellar had ·to be

abolished and in its place another dining room was installed

where at last ladies could be served. This was done only after

the death of Mme. Esparbe, who had instituted the rule of "no

ladies."







Esparbe became incorporated. John Maylie then decided to

branch out into the bakery business. William H. Maylie, with

the aid of an outsider, ran the establishment a few years. By

the time prohibition was abolished this last party r·etired, and

it was then that the grandson, William Leon Maylie, stepped

in to help his father continue this third generation of business,

This grandson was manager after his father's demise, June 1939,

until the summer of 1942 when his uncle, John A. Maylie and

he became co-managers.

In the last few years Maylie's has also become popular in

catering to banquets and club luncheons.

General improvements have been made, but the quaint atmosphere

and local color have not been changed to any great extent.

"They come for atmosphere, but return for food," a prominent

gourmand once said.

Foreword

In distant parts of the world a city is usually better known by

its restaurants and cafes than by any other feature. No matter

how magnificent its commercial prosperity, how beautiful its

boulevards or how distinguished its citizens, they do not take

as salient a place in the mind of the tourist as the "Table d'Hote"

or restaurant at which he has dined.

In wandering through the South the traveler eventually finds

his way to New Orleans, the goal of good cooking. In this

respect "America's Most Interesting City" truly lives up to the

honor given her regarding the Creole and French way of preparing

food for it has upheld its reputation for generations.

"La Cuisine Creole," or "Creole Cookery," partakes of the

nature of its birthplace, New Orleans, which is cosmopolitan,

as it is really an adaption of French, Spanish, Italian, Indian and

some African and Mexican cooking. As an art, it is great and

truly simple, but also an experienced accomplishment.

I

Whether it be in the general home kitchen or in that of a restaurant

the perfect preparation and combination of foods comes

naturally to the New Orleans chef or Creole cook. By some

unconscious impulse, they seem to know the flavor, piquancy,

and savoriness that each dish should have, and combine ingredients

skillfully with an agreeable and harmonious blend.

In a land of abundance, where seafoods, game, fresh meats,

vegetables, and fruits could so easily be gotten, it is no wonder

that the early settlers mixed the spicy Indian flavors with the

dainty French and pungent Spanish along with the African's

knowledge of wild herbs. This combination resulting in what

is known as Creole Cookery or "La Cuisine Creole."











MADAME ESPARBE

Her memory lives on in the tasty dishes she devised

Mrs. Maylie has gathered many articles that Mme. Esparbe used

in her kitchen, finding them stored away in closets. Among

them is her very first salt-box of pear wood, some yellow crocks

and urns, a couple of glazed yellow earthen saucepans, the old

iron hot water kettle, several pitchers1 a brown and white (marble

effect) lard crock, a coffee pot, coffee mill, can opener, colander,

white and blue covered jars. for tea and prunes, etc.







MAYLIE'S TABLE D'HOTE RECIPES

In the: following pages will be found many recipes that have

been handed down from Mme. Esparbe and some of the excellent

cooks that have graced the Maylie's kitchen during these

past years. There are: also a few generally well-known New

Orleans recipes as well as those of the present Mrs. Maylie (all

her recipes marked thus ( * ) have received prizes).

(Note: In all the following recipes the quantities given

serve six or more. One increases or diminishes according to

requirements.)







PIQUANT SAUCE

So appetizing and delicious is the cocktail

sauce served at Maylie's, that visitors almost

invariably ask to buy some to take

away. Several years ago Mr. Maylie and

one of liis waiters combined their individual

cocktail sauces, thus, the resulting concoction

retained the best features of each.

These condiments, spices, ketchup, and

horseradish, etc., are blended so that the

mixture may be used as a dressing . for

salads, seafoods or meats as well as a relish

on crackers.

It is bottled in pint and quart containers.

Guests will find a bottle on each table and

one always helps himself without limit.







MME. ESPARBE'S BOILED

BEEF.OR BOUILLI-Our Specialty

When bouilli is cooked at our restaurant,

it is cut into large pieces of about 8 to 10

lbs., but for a small family, buy a piece of

beef brisket about four lbs. or more. Do

not make the mistake of getting an inferior

piece of soup-meat, it must be brisket. To

this amount of meat allow about 6 qts. or

more water and boil for 4 hours slowly.



This meat is not seasoned. It is suggested

that a good sauce can be made by the guest

of Creole mustard, horseradish, ketchup,

and other seasonings.









ROUX (Brown or White)

1 or 2 tablespoons butter or good lard, 1

or more tablespoons of flour (according to

richness desired.

This is the foundation of all sauces. The

Creole cook like the French hold that the

success of sauces depends upon its brown

or white roux. First of all it is well to

remember that in making Brown roux, it

must never be burnt or over-browned. In

making the roux melt the butter or lard

slowly and gradually add the flour, stirring

constantly till all is a delicate brown,

remembering that as other ingredients are

added the browning continues. The secret

of good cooking lies in the gradual introduction

of ingredients and it is a mistake

to just throw in the last mentioned.

A white roux is made like the brown except

that flour and butter is blended together

at the same time and not allowed

to brown. This roux is used for sauce

containing milk and cream.







Soups

(In all our soups and gravies the

stock from the boiled beef is added instead

of water, thus making them

richer and more palatable. There is,

naturally, exception to this rule on

Fridays.)

CREOLE VEGETABLE SOUP

or JULIENNE

3 qts. of meat stock, 2 carrots, 1 turnip, 1

onion, 4 branches of celery, 1 small green

sweet pepper, 1 doz. string beans, 2 medium

sized tomatoes, Yz cup green pet~s, 4

buttons garlic, 2 sprigs of thyme, parsley,

salt and pepper to taste, 2 or 3 leeks if obtainable.

Wash, scrape or peel all vegetables, slice

into small pieces. Fry onions, green pepper

and tomatoes. Add this to the rest of

vegetables and hot stock. Let boil slowly

for 1 hour or more. Skim and season to

taste. Add minced parsley when serving

if desired. .

This same soup may be strained and fancy

pastes such as stars, letters, shells, vermicelli,

etc., inserted and boiled until tender.

In New Orleans certain fresh Creole vege·

tables can be had the year around and for

that reason Creole vegetable soup is served

a great deal in all restaurants.

ONION SOUP

1 lb. onions sliced, Yz stick of butter, 1

tablespoon flour, 2 qts. stock, sliver of salt

meat, Parmesian (or Gruyere) cheese, salt

and pepper to taste.

Smother onions and salt meat in butter.

browning in the flour, just enough to blend

liquid. Pour in hot stock and let simmer

three-quarters to one hour. Pour in earthenware

dish, place croutons on top, sprinkle

with cheese and bake in oven until

latter is browned. Serve with more cheese

on the side and croutons.

CROUTONS

Make croutons by cutting or dicing bread,

toast dry in oven and then saute same in

butter.

EGG SOUP a Ia PAYSANNE':'

(This is the least expensive of soups

though very nutritious. It may be used

on the Lenten menu quite frequently.)

! '2 eggs, 1 onion, 3 buttons of gtWlic, 11 piece

\ b/ hot pepper, thyme, salt and pepper, a

..._teaspoon of vinegar, 1 tablespoon flour, 1

qt. hot water. ,

Slightly brown the onion and garlic in

the flour. Pour in hot water and seasonings.

Break the white of eggs into this

hot soup and drop yellows into a cup. let

soup boil at first, then sinimer about Yz

hour. Cut thin slices of dry bread into a

soup tureen. Just after pouring strained

soup into dish, mix vinegar with yellows

and mix carefully in soup. Pick out egg

whites and add to soup. Do not heat ov~r

fire again as eggs may curdle. Keep warm

over hot water.

NOTE

This recipe has been handed down through

several generations and is a soup that was

used extensively by the peasantry of France.

They generally poured a little red wine

in it at the table to make it still more palatable.

COLLARD GREENS SOUP

"La Garburre"

(Mme. Esparbe's recipe)

2 or 3 bunches of young collards, 1 cup of

smllll dry white beans, 1 lb. of /at saltetl

pork (green shoulder preferred), 1 onion, 3

cloves, 4 buttons of garlic, 2 sprigs of

thyme, piece of hot pepper, 2 cups of diced

Irish potatoes, beef stock.

Remove tender part of collard leaves from

stems. Wash thoroughly and cut into

shreds. Parboil greens and beans separately,

drain. Fry salt meat then onion and

garlic in a little flour to make a brown

roux. Pour in about 2 qts. or more of hot

stock then add shredded collards, beans

and all other seasonings. Let come to a

boil and then simmer for 2 hours. Add

diced potatoes about 20 minutes or more

before serving as they will go to pie<:es

otherwise. Serve with thin slices of toasted

bread. ·

NOTE

The French cooks used instead of the ordinary

salt pork, a piece of salted goose or

duck, known or termed "confi." It give~ a

more delicate taste to soup and vegetables

and the meat is most palatable. Confi is

still prepared by some of the older generation

but is hardly known now. It has

never been sold or put on the market, due

to cost and because the climate here is too

warm to keep it longer than a few months.

For that reason salted pork is used in the

above recipe.









LENTIL or SPLIT PEA PUREE

Both of these beans should be free of all

particles such as small rocks and hard, dry

earth. Wash and soak for one hour before

. parboiling.

1 lb. of either lentils or split peas, 1 onion,

4 buttons of garlic, 1 Yz qts. meat stock,

small piece of salt-meat, 2 tablespoons flour,

thyme, 2 birdeyes or equivalent hot pepper,

parsley, 1 branch of celery, salt a11d

pepper, 1 kitchen spoon of olive oil.

Add hot meat stock to the parboiled beans

and liquid. Brown flour slightly in oil,

then salt-meat and onion, insert with other

vegetables and seasonings. Let all simmer

slowly for one hour or more. Strain, being

sure to mash beans well so that soup will

be creamy. Be sure to use the flour as it

will keep the bean pulp blended with the

broth. Add a generous piece of butter and

serve with buttered toast or croutons.

LEEK and POTATO PUREE*

1 bunch leeks, 3 large potatoes, 1 tablespoon

flour, 1 tablespoon minced gllrlic

llnd parsley, sprig of thyme, 2 birdeye peppers,

Yz kitchen spoon butter, salt 4nd

pepper, 2 qts. beef stock.

Leeks are very cooling and should be used

as often as possible. This soup makes a

nourishing Lenten dish (of course; substituting

water for stock) as well as an

economical one. Cut and wash leeks thoroughly.

Drain well, melt butter and brown

flour. Fry leeks in flour, insert thyme,

garlic, parsley, and birdeyes. Pour in bot

stock and let come to a boil. Dice potatoes

and add. Boil again and then let simmer

until potatoes are done. Mash through

sieve, salt and pepper to taste. Serve with

toast or saltines.

SOUP a Ia TORTUE

(Turtle Soup)

2 to 3 lbs. Louisiana turtle, 1 onion, 2 large

tomatoes ( br. equivalent in can), 1 tablespoon

minced garlic and parsley, sprig of

thyme, 1 bayleaf, 3 cloves, piece of hot pepper,

turtle eggs or 2 hard-boiled eggs, Yz

glass of sherry, salt and pepper, hot turtlewater

and beef broth, sliced lemon.

If a small turtle is. used, all bones should

be removed from meat after same has boiled,

tender. Turtle eggs should be boiled in

their shells. Fry minced onion in small

amount of flour, add tomatoes and smother

awhile, add boiled turtle water and beef

broth to the amount of 3 qts. Let come to

a boil and insert all seasonings, add the

turtle and cover pot to boil Yz hour or

more, then simmer about 1 hour. When

done take from fire and insert cut eggs,

minced parsley, sherry and lemon. Serve

with buttered toast or salted crackers.







SHELLFISH GUMBO

1 doz. hard shell crabs or equivalent fresh

crab-meat, 1 lb. lake shrimp, 1 doz. oysters,

1 onion, 3 large Creole tomatoes, 2 qts.

fresh okra, sprig- of thyme, 1 tablespoon

minced garlic and parsley, 2 tablespoons of

lard, salt and pepper to taste, 2 birdeye

peppers.

If crabs with shells are used be sure that

they are alive. Scald and dean crabs, .. taking

off the dead man's fingers and sand

bags." Shell shrimp and remove sand

veins. Remove all pieces of loose shells

from oysters. Heat lard and drop in onion

and okra that has been cut into small pieces.

Do not use the large ones with big seeds

unless they are very tender. Let smother

before adding seeded tomatoes and other

seasonings. · Fry crabs and shrimp and add

okra which must be stirred occasionally.

Add oyster water and 3 qts. hot water.

Oysters should be inserted only 15 or 20

minutes before serving. Let simmer for

about three-quarters of an hour. Serve

with boiled Louisiana rice.

- NOTE:

Never use black pots in preparing okra or

eggplants. The vegetables will become discolored.







CRAYFISH GUMBO FILE'~

4 doz. large crayfish, 1 qt. oyster liquor, 1

qt. hot water, 1 large minced onion, 1 large

tomato, Yz kitchen spoon /lour, 1 bay lea/,

sprig of thyme, 1 tablespoon minced garlic

and parsley, 2 birdeyes, 1 heaping tablespoon

butter, salt and pepper to taste, two

teaspoons fresh file.

Wash crayfish in salted water so as to make

them emit all sand. Rinse and boil, then

shell when cooled. Brown flour in ·shortening,

adding onion and tomatoes one at

a time until done. Pour in hot drained

oyster liquor then hot water. Let boil, then

add all other seasonings and crayfish. Simmer

for three-quarters of an hour and then

add just before serving, the file. Stir in

well and let thicken as desired. Serve with

boiled or steamed Louisiana rice.









CRAWFISH BISQUE

6 or 8 doz. large crawfish, 2 tablespoons

flour, 2 onions, 2 branches of celery, 2

tomatoes, 1 bay lea/, 2 sprigs of thyme, 3

cloves, 2 qts. of oyster water or beef stock,

piece of hot pepper, dash of cayenne, 1

tablespoon minced garlic and parsley, 2

tablespoons of butter or good lard, salt and

pepper, a cup of wet bread that has bPen

soaked and squeezed, 1 egg.

Wash and cleanse crawfish after they have

soaked in salt water to make them emit

all sand. Boil in about a gallon of water,

remove crawfish ·and save the water. Select

one-third of the largest fish, remove tails

and clean out inside of heads then free

heads of claws, feet and eyes, etc. Shell

the tails and rest of crawfish. Make a roux

of the flour, Yz lard or butter, brown one

minced onion and tomatoes well, then

pour in the crawfish water with warm oyster

water, if to be used for a fast dinner,

otherwise substitute beef stock for oyster

water. Insert broken fish meats and seasonings

and let come to a boil then let

simmer while heads are being prepared.

Take reserved crawfish meat and make a

stuffing as (ollows: mince the other

onion, fry in melted butter then add minced

crawfish tails and squeezed chopped bread

with leaves from a sprig of thyme, salt and

pepper. Mash all well and add beaten egg

after having cooled same a little. Stuff

heads, roll lightly in Hour and brown in

oven, then add to soup and simmer Yz

hour. This is a soup which demands time

to make but one is rewarded for his or her

trouble when partaking of a bisque made

of these crustaceans. Serve with boiled rice

or croutons.





The wood stove that Mme. Esparbe first used was still in use

after she died. It was said never to have gone out, but that,

one knows, is an exaggeration. We do know that she kept it

shining like a mirror and everything in her kitchen was

scrubbed white daily. Her kitchen had an antique look with

its fancy-cut newspaper on the shelves, and sand thrown on the

floor to catch whatever grease spattered, and woe to he or her

who had the misfortune to spill unnecessarily. She demanded

that her pots, pans, tables, and kitchen utensils, as well as the

court yard, be as immaculate as her attire.











Seafoods

I uI I

CREOLE BOU I LLABAISE

. 4 or 6 slices eacb of Red Snapper and Red

Fish, 4 large Creole tomatoes or equivalent

in can, 1 bell pepper, 2 onions, 1 large bay

leaf, 1 large sprig of thyme, 4 allspice, 1

herb bouquet, 12 lemon, 2 tablespoons

olive oil, 1 heaping tablespoon of minced

garlic and pepper, salt, pepper and cayenne

to taste, 1 glass white wine.

Buy fish small so as to haye no waste. Cut

heads off, rinse and boil in 1 qt. of water,

with the bouquet of herbs and a generous

slice of onion. Let same reduce to half so

as to make a fish stock. Strain and set

aside. Rin:;e whole fish and cut into slices

of amount desired. Rub same well on both

sides with thyme, parsley, garlic, bay leaf,

allspice, which have been minced or ground

well. See that every part of fish is well

saturated. Heat olive oil in a roomy saucepan

so that when placing fish, the slices

will lay flat. Mince rest of onion and fry

in hot oil. Lay each slice of fish side by

side and cover to smother, for about 15

minutes. Turn fish over carefully to fry

on other side. Remove same carefully so

as not to break slices and set aside to keep

warm. Add tomatoes that have been

skinned and seeded rings of green sweet

pepper, and let fry well. Add thin slices of

lemon, hot fish stock, white wine, salt, pepper,

cayenne or other }lot pepper. Let all

boil well until reduced- to about half. Lay

, fish in this gravy, without overlapping and

boil about 5 minutes or more. Serve fish

on buttered slices of toast and pour sauce

over same. Serve immediately or toast will

become soggy. ·

SPANISH COURTBOUILLION

6 or 8 slices of Red/ish or Red Snapper, 1

tablespoon of lard, 2 tablespoons flottr, 1

large onion, 4 large tomatoes, 1 bell pepper,

1 sprig of thyme, 1 bay lea/, 1 tablespoon

minced garlic and parsley, and a

piece of hot pepper, 2 pts. of hot water if

to be used as a fast day dish otherwise use

beef broth, Yz glass of red wine, salt and

pepper to taste.

Make a brown roux by heating hot lard

into which 1 tablespoon of the flour is

stirred. Add minced onion, green pepper

seeded and skinned tomatoes, let fry well

then pour in the hot water and let come

to a boil. Insert all other seasonings. Salt

and pepper slices of fish, passed lightly in

rest of flour and fry. Place in above sauce,

and let simmer with wine for about a half

-9-

hour or more. Remove each slice of fish

carefully when ready to serve and place on

large slices of toast. Pour gravy over all,

and garnish with slices of lemon. Se.rve

with mashed potatoes or French fried.

MAYLIE'S RED FISH SAUCE

-Vinaigrette

One 3 or 4-lb. red fish, 1 onion, 2 bay

leaves, 1 large sprig of thyme, 1 tablespoon

vinegar, 3 or 4 sprigs of parsley, salt and

pepper.

Clean and wash fish, lay in a pan with

enough hot water to swim. Slash sides of

fish slightly to prevent same from shrinking

Place vegetable, herbs, salt and pepper and

vinegar in water. Cover pan and let boil

about 10 minutes. When done remove

from pan, cool and peel off skin. Serve

cold with a vinegrette sauce as follows:

Boil 3 eggs hard, mash yellows, mix with

6 or 8 chopped shallots, 2 tablespoons vinegar,

6 tablespoons olive oil, 1 tablespoon

minced parsley, chopped egg-whites, a few

minced olives, salt and pepper to taste.

BROILED POMPANO with

DRAWN BUTTER SAUCE

Broil Pompano, after being split down the

back and cleaned, seasoned with salt and

pepper and iubbed with a generous pouring

of sweet or olive oil. A wire broiler is

best to use but the fish may be placed in a

flat baking pan and put under the flame in

a gas stove. When top of fish is browned

then place in the top oven a few minutes,

as fish cannot be turned without breaking.

Place in long platter and pour over drawn

butter to which has been added chopped

parsley and lemon juice. Serve with puffed

potatoes. See page 24.





NOTE:

This is a fish that is peculiar to the Gulf

of Mexico and the Louisiana Gulf stream

shores. It is a New Orleans fish, known

the world over for its delicacy, hence few

visitors should leave our Creole City without

having tasted it. There 'is only one

way that it is really cooked and that is to

broil it. It may ·be served with several

sauces but the most popular is with drawn

butter and lemon.







MME. ESPARBE'S BACALAO

11,;2 lbs. real Bacalao (imported), 1

minced onion, 1 tablespoon of minced garlic

and parsley, 2 t11blespoons olive · oil,

thyme,. 1 bay lea/, 2 birdeyes, about 1 glass

of milk, salt and pepper to taste, toasted

French cap loa/, 1 pt. hot water, 1 Yz tablespoons

flour, 3 or 4 potatoes.

Soak the codfish over night. Pour off

water next morning, pour in fresh wate1"

and bring to a boil. Remove from fite to

cool enough to pick bones and skins. Make

a white roux of flour, onion and garlic and

parsley. Insert hot water and rest of seasoning.

Let come to a -boil then add codfish

and whole potatoes. Add hot milk

toward end and only enough to have gravy

slightly thick. Toast large slices of French

cap loaf, place this on a large platter and

lift fish and potatoes on to same. Pour

gravy over all and serve immediately,

otherwise bread will become soggy.

CASPURGOT or SOLE., and

TARTAR SAUCE

(Sheephead and Floun.der)

These two Gulf water fish are of less rich

flesh than Pompano and they are more frequently

used. They may be fried, baked

or broiled. To fry, have a 3 or 4-lb .. ftsn

cut into thick slices. Wash and dry, pepper

and salt. · Dip in an egg batter, and drop

in hot oil and brown on all sides. Drain

on brown paper and serve with a tartar

sauce. To broil or bake, season well with

salt and pepper and dredge• in oil. Use

lemon, butter, and a little water to dilute

juices and garnish with parsley. Serve

with a cress salad.

SPANISH MACKEREL a Ia

POYDRAS':'

1 fresh mackerel (about 11,;2 lbs.), 1h cup

chopped green onions, 1 kitchen spoon

butter, 1 cttP mushrooms, minced parsley, ·

salt and pepper thin slices of lemon.

Slice fish in half then into 3 pieces each.

· Rinse fish, dry, salt and pepper. Melt

butter and add green onions and mu-;hrooms,

let fry somewhat, then lay fish on

this and after a while sprinkle parsley over

all. See that fish lays side to side in saucepan.

Cover and let smother. Add a slight

bit of water to prevent scorching. Just

before serving, place thin slices of lemon

over and between fish. Serve with potatoes,

either puffed, French fried, or otherwise.

STUFFED. CRABS (Creole)

1 doz. hard-shelled crabs (blue cliiUJs, ;j

possible), 1 large onion or equivalent green

shallots, 1 small green pepper, 1 large tomato,

1 tablespoon or more of garlic and

parsley minced, sprig of thyme, piece of hot

pepper, about a cup or more of wet · stale

bread or bread crumbs, about lh stick oj

butter, salt and pepper to taste, 2 eggs.

Boil crabs in plenty of water. When cool

break off all feet and claws. Open crabs,

remove "dead man's fingers" and sand bag.

Pick meat and fat from crab and claws.

Fry minced onion in a little butter, then

add minced green sweet pepper and tomatoes.

Brown all well and add crabs and

all seasonings, let fry well. Add more butter

and chopped squeezed wet bread. Let

all fry well and remove from .fire to cool

somewhat. Beat eggs into crabs and stuff

shells that have been thoroughly scoured.

Sprinkle with bread crumbs and dot with

butter. Bake in a moderate oven until doDe

·and golden brown.

MME. ESPARBE'S CRAB PONTCHARTRAI

N and CREOLE RICE

1 doz. blue hard-shell crabs, 1 onion, 2

fresh tomatoes, 1 kitchen spoon tomato

paste, 1 sweet green pepper, two kitchen

spoons flour, 1 tablespoon minced gariic

and parsley, piece of butter, 1 sprig of

thyme, 1 bay lea/, 2 birdeye peppers or

equivalent red hot pepper, 2 qts. hot water,

2 raw eggs, salt and pepper.

Crabs must be alive and should be scalded

to be killed. Remove shell cover then

"dead men's fingers,'' tips of claws, mouth

and sandbag, but retain the fat of the crabs.

Cut in half and break large claws, wash

and dry. Fry in hot lard, add onien, green

peppers and tomatoes. Let all smother

well, then add hot water and all other seasonings.

Simmer for about 1 hour. Just

before serving, beat flour and eggs into a

smooth paste (no lumps). Thin with some

of the clear gravy and add gradually to .

crab stew. Stir all well and add generous

piece of butter. Serve with Louisiana

boiled rice.

RICE (Creole style)

Pick rice clean. The whiteness of rice depends

upon its being washed thoroughly

in cold water, rubbing it well with the

hands, and rinsing repeatedly to remove all

flour dust. The secret of properly cooked

rice is to have salted water boiling before

inserting rice. The cold rice will cause

water to cease boiling until it becomes





heated. Until this happens rice should be

stirred occasionally to prevent sticking to

bottom of pot, but as soon as it boils again

do not touch. Cover and let boil about 20

minutes or until grains begin to swell and

thicken. and practically done. When this

stage is reached, put in collander and pour

cold water through it and set in oven for a

·few minutes to dry, or else place the collander

or strainer over hot water to finish

swelling and drying. This last is called

.. steamed rice." Rice should be cooked so

that each grain is separate.

NOTE: ·

Rice is a standing dish on every Creole

table, is served in all Southern restaurants

as well as in New Orleans.

T ANTE THERESE'S FRIED

SOFT SHELL CRABS

1 doz. soft shell crabs, 2 or 3 eggs, flour,

salt and pepper, Yz lb. lard.

First of all, see that crabs are perfectly

fresh, in fact, still kicking. Wash carefully,

using cold water. Never scald. Remove

from shell covering and cut off spongy

fingery substance at each side, also mouth,

eyes, and sandbag under the mouth. If

there .is still sand clinging, wash again and

dry between a towel. Salt and pepper and

roll in flour. Dip in beaten . egg and fry

in hot grease. There should be enough of

hot grease for crabs to swim in it. Fry on

both sides, and drain on brown paper or

wire strainer. Serve with a tartar sauce

and lemon.

TARTAR SAUCE

To ordinary mayonnaise add a kitchen

spoon of finely chopped shallots, 2 teaspoons

minced parsley, 1 minced pickle, 2

or 3 minced olives, about 1 teaspoon of

French mustard.

FRIED FROG LOAF

6 frog legs and breasts (they must be

young), olive oil, lemon, parsley, butter,

salt and pepper.

Clean, skin and scald frogs in boiling

lemon juice and salt. Dry and sprinkle

with pepper and salt, pass in cornmeal, and

fry in hot oiL Cut a loaf of bread in half,

remove some of the soft part, and toast

halves slightly. Spread with butter, place

a few lettuce leaves on one half and lay on

this fried frogs. Garnish with pickle and

lemon parsley. Place other half of bread

on top and serve hot.

OYSTER MELBA*

2 doz. medium oysters, 1 ~ tablespo..o11s

butter or lard, ~ cup minced shallots, ~

kitchen spoon flour, thyme and parsley, 2

birdeye peppers or equivalent, 1 cup oyster

water, 2 tablespoons white wine, salt and

pepper to taste, Melba toast.

Melt butter, brown flour, being careful not

to burn. Add shallots and minced seasonings

and let alf fry well before inserting

drained warm oyster liquid. Let simmer

well or until gravy thickens, then add wine

and simmer a while longer. Add oysters

about 15 or 20 minutes before serving .as

too much cooking will toughen them.

Spread on Melba toast, garnish with slices

of lemon, watercress or any green salad,

and serve with French fry or Brabant potatoes.

MAYLIE'S OYSTER ST. JACQUES*

6 or 8 oyster shells, 3 doz. large oysters, 3

kitchen spoons minced shallots, 2 tablespoons

minced garlic and parsley, sprig of

thyme, 2 eggs, 2 birdeyes, 1 kitchen spoon

lard, salt, and pepper to taste, dash of

tabasco, 3 thick slices stale French bread,

or about the same amount of corn bread.

Drain and wipe oysters and place in skillet

on slow fire to blanch; keep water to soak

bread. Chop oysters. Brown shallots, then

oysters and let fry well. Add all other SC'cl·

sonings and bread already soaked . and

squeezed slightly. Let all smother well.

Remove from fire and cool a little before

beating in eggs. If too stiff, add a little

milk. Stuff shells, sprinkle over with bread

crumbs and dot with butter. Bake about

15 or 20 minutes. Serve with drawn butter

and asparagus tips.

OYSTER VOL-AU-VENT*

1 Vol-au-vent (extra large pattie shell) ma'Y

be purchased at most bakeries, 4 dozen medium

oysters, 1 cup diced, large shrimp

(parboiled and sanded), 1 cup minced shallots,

1 kitchen spoon minced green pepper

and celery, 1 large tomato (seeded and

peeled), 1 tablespoon minced garlic and

parsley, 1 cup mushrooms, 1 ~ tablespoons

flour, 2 kitchen spoons white wine, sprig

of thyme, 2 birdeye peppers, 1 kitche,1

spoon good lard or butter, salt and pepper

to taste.

Heat lard, brown flour, add onion, then

green sweet pepper, celery and tomatoes.

Smother well before adding strained o·yster

water and mushroom liquid. Let come to

a hard boil before adding mushrooms,

thyme, garlic and parsley and birdeyes. Let

all simmer until gravy thickens well be-





fore adding white wine, then blanched oysters

and shrimp and let stew about 20

minutes. If oysters are cooked too long

they will become tough. Fill vol-au-vent

shell with stew and place in oven to crisp.

Place on platter, cover with top and garnish

with fresh water cress. Serve buttered

green peas with vol-au-vent.

Patty shells may be substituted for vol-auvent.

OYSTERS en BROCHETTE

Wipe oysters we_ll and stick through with

a skewer. Alternate with a piece of bacon.

Put ·about 4 to 6 oysters on each skewer.

Broil in a pan, turning occasionally. Place

on a platter, salt and pepper and pour over

them drawn butter. Garnish ·with lemon

and parsley, olives.

SHELLFISH MELBA':'

6 hard shell crabs (boiled) or equivalent

of freshly picked crab meat, 1 lb. boiled

large lake shrimp, 1 to 2 doz. salty oysters

(according to size), 1 onion or preferably

equivalent shallots, about 3 tablespoons

tomato paste, 1 tablespoon minced sweet

green pepper, sprig of ·thyme, 1 cup of cut

mushrooms, 2 or 3 birdeye peppers. J

tablespoon minced garlic and parsley, 1

kitchen spoon flour, 2 egg yolks, salt a11d

pepper, 8 slices or more of Melba toast,

butter for frying, watercress.

Chop meat of crabs and shrimp slightly.

Fry ·same in tablespoon or more of butter.

Brown onion,~ green pepper and mushrooms.

Add tomato paste, thyme and hot peppers,

garlic and parsley, salt and pepper. Smother

well, then add one cup of hot mushroom

water and hot oyste£ liquid and simmer L2

hour. Chop blanched oysters and add to

the above, cooking a few minutes

longer. Beat egg yolks and mix into flour,

making sure that it is a smooth paste so

that no lumps will form when added to

first ingredients. Salt and pepper to taste.

This gravy should be of a heavy consistency

so as not to run off the bread. Place

spoonful on Melba toast and cover with

strips of same. Garnish with watercress

and serve with green peas.

OYSTERS ROCKEFELLER

Remove oysters from shells, wash, drain,

and replace on cleansed shells. Set them

on tray or platter of hot ice-cream salt. Run

under broiler flame for about five minutes

or until oysters begin to shrink. Have

ready to pour over oysters the sauce made

of the following ingredients:

~ head green lettuce, ~ bunch of spinach,

Y2 bunch of shallots, 4 stalks bf greett

celery, 1 bouquet of parsley, 2 sprigs of

thyme, three-quarters cup of toasted and

sifted bread or c1·acke1· crumb-s, 1 cup . ot

good butter, 1 cup each of plain water and

oyster water, 1 Yz tablespoons Worcestershire

Sauce, 1 oz. absinthe, a little lemon

juice.

Grind vegetables in chopper. Let boil

quickly, plain and oyster water together, tO

nearly Yz quantity, add chopped vegetables

and cook until sauce becomes thick. Insert

Worcestershire sauce and stir in butter,

absinthe and lemon juice. Mix all

well and cover oysters with same. · Sprinkle

with bread crumb and return to oven

to brown. It is best to serve oysters JO

the platter in which they have been cooked

so that shells win keep hot.

WHISKIED BOILED CRAWFISH':'

Years ago when Mme. Esparbe served

boiled crawfish she never failed to throw

one-half pint of good whiskey over these

crustaceans immediately after they had

been boiled and drained. This is the secret

of the mysterious flavor that had so many

guessing. Try it, if only once.

For about 10 or 12 lbs. of crawfish use

one heaping khchen spoon of cayenne, 2

bay leaves, enough salt to season well. Boil

in plenty water. Draiu and pour Yz pinr

whiskey over all. Serve cold.

BAKED FILET de TRUITE with

MUSHROOMS and WHITE WINE

GRAVY':'

8 or 10 filets of trout, 1 minced onion of

shallots preferably, 1 tablespoon minced

garlic and parsley, 1 small can of mushrooms,

2 level tablespoons flour, 1 kitchen

spoon olive oil, sprig of thyme, 2 kitchen

spoons white wine, 2 birdeye peppe1"S, .l

tablespoon butter, salt and pepper, few thin

slices of lemon plus a tablespoon of lemon

iuice.

Wipe filets with a damp cloth. Sprinkle

salt and pepper. Roll ·and pass well

in flour. Place in baking dish after sticking

a toothpick in each filet to prevent

uncurling. Heat olive oil, brown flour

slightly, and fry onion or shallots and

mushroom water and one cup of hot water

and bring to a boil. Insert thyme, garlic

and parsley, birdeyes or hot pepper. Let

simmer until gravy gets slightly heavy.

Pour in wine and then pour mixture over

fish. Dot with lemon, lemon juice and

butter. Salt and pepper to taste again.

Bake in moderate oven until done and

gravy has become thick. Serve with a

boiled potato garnished with minced parsley.





.Century old bronze ·bell, from the

Poydras Street Market.

Imported granite stone, used to support

pillar of l\tlarket.

The old bronze bell from the Poydras Market, used 85 or 90

years ago, to ring "curfew" on the market activities every day

at morning, noon and night, reposes on top the ice box in Maylie's

quaintly furnished bar and occasionally is used by banqueters

to call their crowd together to start marching to "come

and get it."

Below this antique is found another, it being one of the many

granite stones imported from abroad to help support the iron

pillars that held the long roof of the Poydras Market. When

this last was demolished, Mr. Maylie managed to get it as a

souvenir. He was proud of the many old thirigs he had collected

and preserved, and also of his staff which stuck to him

through thick and thin, Among them Albert Booth Campbell,

negro cook and waiter, who came to work for the elder Maylie

in 1897.

-





Fowl and Meats

SOUTH ERN STYLE, FRIED

SPRING CHICKEN a Ia Lula

2 spring chickens, 1 cup flour, Yz cup

sweet cream, 1 qt. vegetable oil, salt and

pepper to taste.

Clean chickens and quarter. Place on ke

over night. Salt and pepper. __ Pass in

flour lightly and dip in cream then pass

lightly in flour again. Fry in hot oil until

golden brown. Serve hot with a vegetable.

ROASTED CAPON OR TURKEY

with CHESTNUT and PECAN

DRESSING

1 capon or 1 hen turkey, 2 lbs. of chestnuts,

1 lb. of /at pecans, lard, salt and pepper

to taste.

Clean and prepare fowl for stuffing. Salt

and pepper, in and out. Have ready chestnuts

and pecans to fill bowl. Close craw

and trunk and lard bird well. Place in a

baking pan. Baste often, turning now and

then. To prepare the chestnuts do as follows:

Rinse chestnuts. Slash each one

and put into cold salted water. Let bo1l

until done. Drain and· peel as soon as pos:

sible so that nuts will be warm to insert

with picked fat pecans. The filling will

absorb the juice of the steaming inside

of fowl. After-bird has roasted some pour

in a little water to prevent juices frQm

drying. Basting often is important. Bake

about 20 minutes to the pound. Serve w:ith

a combination salad.

MUSCOVY DUCK or GOOSE

ROAST with -OYSTER DRESSING

Either of the above fowls when properly

prepared is extremely tasty, but they must

by all means be young and tender.

To get best results in the preparation, duck

and geese should never be scalded to pick

the feathers. They should be hand-picked

and allow about 20 to 25 minutes cooking

for every pound. Stuff with an oyster

dressing as follows:

~lanch 4 dozen oysters and chop well. Fry

m. butter a minced ~nion with a cupful of

mmced shallots. Mmce well one-fourth of

a pound of fat boiled ham and liver from

fowl, add to the above. Season with a

sprig of thyme, 1 tablespoon of minced

garlic and parsley and add chopped oysters.

Let all fry well. Add 2 birdeye peppers

or equivalent hot pepper, salt and

pepper. Now insert a cupful of chopped

bread that has been soaked in milk and

squeezed. Let aii fry thoroughly. Remove

from fire a while to cool before beat·

ing in 2 or 3 eggs (according to size). Stuff

fowl's body and craw and sew both ends

up, put into roasting pan rubbing well

with lard. Pour in about a half of cup of

hot water. Basting often, about 10 minutes

apart, will make the fowl juicy.

DAUBE GLACE'

1 thick beef round, about .3 lbs., with bone,

2 pigs' feet, 2 calves' feet, 6 or 8 shallots,

3 cloves of garlic, 1 large sprig of thyme,

3 or 4 birdeye peppers or equivalettt red

hot pepper, 1 bay lea/, 2 sticks of celery, 2

carrots, sliced green peppers, 1 tablespoon

chopped parsley, 1 tablespoon salt, sliced

lemon, 1 glass claret.

Have butcher lard meat with diced squares

of fresh pork fat. Put steak to soak overnight

in icebox with all seasoning and

wine. In the morning put all in a deep

pot and cover wjth plenty of cold water.

Insert {>ig and calf feet and let all come to

a quick boil; then reduce heat and simmer

3 to 4 hours until meat and feet are tender

enough to remove bones. In the course of

simmering, grease will form on top. Remove

same from time to time. When done

and liquid has reduced enough, remove

from fire. Pick ->ut whole carrots, slice

and place piece:~~ 1n bottom of mould. Lift

meats carefully and place in mould, place

rest of carrot pieces on sides and top.

Strain liquid and pour over meat. Sprinkle

a little minced pauley and place slices of

lemon on top. When cool enough put into

refrigerator to congeal.

VEAL BLANQUETTE*

2 lbs. ·young veal brisket, 1 onion, 1 table,

spoon flour, 1 tablespoon minced garlic

and parsley, 2 birdeyes, 1 sprig of thyme,

1 teaspoon capers, 2 egg yolks, salt and

pepper to taste, 1 pt. stock.

~emove as much bone and gristle as pos·

stble from the veal, cut into small pieces

and fry well on all sides. Brown flour and

onion and insert hot stock and rest of seasonings.

Let all simmer slowly until liquid

has reduced to about half. Add a little

gravy to beaten yolks before mserting same

into stew. Do not let cook any more as

eggs will curdle.







STUFFED VEAL ROUND

a Ia NOUVELLE ORLEANS':'

2 baby veal rounds (Yz -inch thick), 2

onions, 1 small bell pepper, .3 or 4 Creole

tomatoes, 1 tablespoon flour, Yz lb. fat

boiled ham, 1 tablespoon .minced garlic

and pepper, 2 sprigs of thyme, three-quurters

of a pint of bee/ stock,, 1 cup of stale

bread and crumbs, 1 egg, 1 tablespoon

grated cheese, 2 tablespoons lard, 2 pieces

of hot red pepper, 0 cup of dried mushrooms

or equivalent canned, salt and pepper

to taste.

Stuff each round with a dressing made as

follows: Fry one minced onion in half

the lard or butter, add bread and crumbs

and Yz of the garlic, parsley, thyme, hot

pepper, then ham and let all smother well,

stirring to keep from scorching. Remove

from fire and let cool somewhat before

adding beaten egg and grated cheese, salt

and pepper to taste. Place half on each

round, roll and tie well to prevent the stuffing

from escaping. Fry rounds lightly,

and remove from fire. Make a Creole

gravy with the flour and other onion,

green pepper, tomatoes and mushrooms

and seasonings. Smother well then add

mushroom liquid and stock and let come

to a boil. Insert veal rolls and let simmer

for three-quarters of an hour. Stir occasionally.

Serve with buttered noodles or

cream potatoes.

If dried mushrooms are used, soak in warm

water to soften same.

SPAGHETTINI en CASSEROLE

a I'ITALIENNE

2 lbs. of chopped veal and pork meat, 1 lb.

spaghettini, 1 onion, 1 fried eggplant (in

oil), 1 kitchen spoon tomato paste, 1 cttP

of Italian canned tomatoes, 1 green sweet

pepper, 2 birdeyes, 1 cup of mushrooms, 1

tablespoon of minced garlic and parsley,

sprig of thyme, salt and pepper to taste,

bee/ stock, grated cheese.

Boil spaghettini (extra fine spaghetti) in

salted water until tender but not pasty. Fry

separately sliced eggplant and ground

meat, that have been salted and peppered.

Keep both warm, but off fire. Make gravy

while spaghettini is boiling. Saute the

minced onion, green pepper, and Italian

tomatoes, then mushrooms and tomato

paste. Let all smother well then add rest

of seasonings and the liquid from the

mushrooms and a little beef stock or hot

water. Salt and pepper and let boil until

gravy is done and thick enough to use. Divide

the spaghettini into about three equal

portions. Place first portion in a pyrex

dish, then a layer of fried meats, a layer of

fried eggplant then -part of gravy and

grated cheese. · Repeat the process and end

up by covering with third layer of spaghettini

and grated cheese and more gravy.

Bake in moderately hot oven for about Yz

hour.

MME. ESPARBE'S BEEF DAUBE

and MACARONI au GRATIN

.3 lbs. beef round /rom shoulder, 1 small

slice of /at salt meat, 1 large onion, 6

young carrots, 2 tablespoons lard, 2 tomatoes,

2 tablespoons flour, 1 bay lea/, sprig

of thyme, 1 tablespoon minced garlic an.d

parsley, piece of hot pepper.., 2 qts. hot

water or stock, Yz glass claret, salt and

pepper to taste.

Fry beef round first and remove from pot.

Fry salt meat in same lard. Brown flour

then chopped onion and se~ded and

skinned tomatoes and carrots. Add all other

seasonings and let smother a while. Insert

hot stock or water and let come to a hard

boil before returning beef round. Cover

well and let simmer for about 20 min. and

then turn daube over on other side, cook

a little more and add claret. Cover well

and cook on slow fire.

MACARONI AND CHEESE

Boil 1 lb. of macaroni until tender but

not mushy. Drain and place on a large

platter. Stir in butter and grated Swiss

cheese and a little Italian cheese. Pour 4

little of the daube gravy over all and

sprinkle /ine crumbs on top. Pass in oven

a few minutes;

MME. ESPARBE'S BROI~ED

BEEFSTEAK or FILET MIGNON

aux CEPES

Cepes are a kind of mushroom, being much

larger and· flatter. They sometimes come as

large as a plate and can be still found in

the piney woods of St. Tammany Parish

as a rule, but the canned ones are imported

from France and being quite expensive are

not generally used as much as the mushroom.

Mme. always insisted on having h*!r

steaks of the best quality, never using anything

but the Porterhouse and Tenderloin

when she could not get the Filet Mignon.

As one still knows, a steak broiled ovP.r

coals is of a tastier quality and she, having

a large Charter Oak stove, the broiling

place in front of her stove was in use nearly

every day.

-15-









The steaks were placed between a double

wire broiler with a long handle. One side

was broiled and then turned but never

turned back to ·the first side. In frying a

steak she was also careful never to turn it

before it was brown and really done "au

point," never frying a side twice. She

salted her steaks while they were cooking,

not before nor after. When done it w.1s

placed in a hot platter with butter and

the cepes that had been drained of their

oil, well dried, salted and peppered and

fried in olive oil with a "persiliade" of

chopped parsley and garlic. This was and

still is a favorite French dish, and one

which Madame served with pleasure a'

she knew it was a man's dish.

FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN

au CHOU-FLEUR*

1 fat young hen of about 4 or 5 lbs., 1

onion, 1 cauliflower, 2 tomatoes, · 1 Y2

tablespoons /lour, 1 sprig of thyme, 1 tablespoon

of garlic and parsley minced, salt and

pepper to taste, a piece of hot red pepper,

lard and beef stock.

Clean chicken and cut at joints, rinse and

dry. Fry well on all sides and remove

from pot. Brown flour then onion and

tomato, then add stock (about 1 qt.). Insert

seasonings and return chicken, let all come

to a boil and then simmer for 1 Yz hours.

Add cauliflower that has been par-boiled

and broken into large pieces, being careful

not to stir same too much as it- will go to

pieces. Let simmer a while longer. Salt and

pepper to taste. When ready to serve, lift

out of pot carefully to prevent cauliflower

breaking.

POULET a Ia CREOLE':'

1 chicken (large springer), 1 kitchenspoon

lard, 2 tablespoons flour, 3 large tomatoes

1 large green sweet pepper, 1 large onion.,

1 tablespoon minced garlic and parsle31

sprig of thyme, 1 cup boiling water or

consomme, salt and pepper.

Cut chicken at joints, wash and dry and

season well with pepper and salt. Melt lard

and fry chicken on all sides. Have ready

sliced onion and green pepper. Add this

to the chicken and let brown in the fl~ur.

Add skinned and seeded tomatoes, let cook

well then insert thyme, garlic and parsley.

Stir occasionally to prevent scorching. Consomme

may now be added. Cover well and

let cook well on a slow but steady fire for

Y2 hour. Salt and pepper to taste and serve

with creamed potatoes or steamed rice.

CHICKEN, SAUCE BLANCHE

au CAP RES':'

1 young fat he_n. small Piece of salt met:~;t

about 2 inches long) 1 tablespoon garltc

and parsley, 1 sprig of thyme, 1 kitchen

spoon flour, 1 tablespoon capers, small

piece hot pepper, about 1 kitchen spoon

lard, 1 pt. hot water or stock, 2 egg yolks,

l teaspoon vin:egar, salt and pepper to

taste.

Wash and dry after cutting chicken into

pieces. Fry well on all sides. Remove from

pot. Brown flour in this same grease, also

salt meat, then minced onion. Pour in hot

water and return chicken to pot. Salt and

pepper and _let come to a hard boil, then

add garlic, parsley, hot pepper and capers.

Let simmer until chicken is done-one

hour or more. Just before serving, beat

egg yolks and vinegar together. To keep

eggs from curdling, take about one kitchen

spoon of hot gravy, stir this into eggs carefully

and then add to rest Of gravy and

chicken. The sauce should be somewhat

thick. ·

NOTE:

Young calf feet may be prepared likewise

but they must be thoroughly cleaned and

scraped before boiling in water. When parboiled

the water will be like gelatine (when

cooled). Use this instead of hot water as

in the chicken.

GIBLET STEW a Ia COMPAGNE

Giblets of T_urkey, ducks, etc., 1 tablespoon

/lour, 2 carrots and 1 onion, 1 cup of

fresh or canned tomatoes, Yz green sweet

pepper, 1 tablespoon minced garlic and

parsley, 2 birdeyes, sprig of thyme, small

piece of bay lea/, 1 qt. beef stock or hot

water, 1 can fine green peas, 2 or 3 potatoes

if desire4_, 1 sliver of salt pork.

Use the wings, neck, gizzard and heart,

but if more meat is needed, add a small

piece of veal. Fry the foregoing and remove

from pot, then fry salt meat. Brown flour,

carrots, onion, green pepper and tomato.

Add other seasonings and let smother

awhile then add beef stock or hot water

and let come to a boil. Return giblets and

let simmer for 1 hr. or more. Potatoes and

drained green peas may now be· inserted.

Cook until potatoes are done.

NOTE:

Most people make a gumbo with the carcass

and what is left of the turkey. Try

using these leftovers in the above recipe,

it makes an excellent dish.

-16-



TRIPE a Ia CREOLE

2 lbs. tripe, 1 sliver of /at salt meat, 1

minced onion, 2 tomatoes, 1 small green

sweet pepper, 1 tablespoon garlic and PtWsley

(minced), thyme, 2 birdeyes, Yz

kitchen spoon of lard.

Rinse the tripe well in hot water and dry

thoroughly. Cut into narrow and short

strips or dice. Melt lard and fry salt meat,

· drop tripe in same, frying well before

adding onion, also skinned and seeded tomatoes,

and green pepper. Let all smother

well, then add other seasonings. Add 1 pt.

of beef broth and let simmer for 1 hour.

Parsleyed Irish potatoes, boiled or sauted

go well with tripe a la Creole.

KIDNEY au MARCHAND de YIN

2 pairs young calf kidneys, 1 minced onion

or 1 doz. shallots, Yz kitchen spoon flour,

1 tablespoon garlic and parsley (minced),

Yz pt. stock or hot water, ~ glass red or

madeira wine, 3 birdeye peppers, sprig of

thyme, 1 heaping tablespoon lard, salt and

pepper to taste.

Rinse and dry kidneys. Cut into small

pieces. Fry well and push to one side of

saucepan. Brown flour and onions and

other seasonings. Pour in hot stock and let

come to a boil and then let simmer for

about 15 minutes, adding wine about 5

minutes before ready to serve.

SMOTHERED CALF TONGUE or

WHOLE SUCKLING CALF LIVER

If calf tongue is to be used, remember to

parboil same in order to remove outer

coating. When using calf liver, care must be

taken to cut out veins as much as possible

without ruining shape of liver. Outer skin

must also be removed. Proceed to prepare

either of these in the same manner as the

kidney, with the exception of "no wine."

Instead, put a sour gherkin and a little more

liquid in the tongue but not the liver.

SWEETBREADS

Sweet breads often occupy an important

place at a Maylie dinner and is a typical

New Orleans entree on account of its delicacy.

The sweet breads should be those

taken from very young or suckling calves.

They should be trimmed of nerves, veins,

fibers, skins and blood, washed well and

soaked in salted water for about an hour,

drained and returned to salted cold water

and let blanche till they come to a boil.

Drain again and dry. They now are ready

for general _ use.

MME. ESPARBE'S SWEET BREAD

FRICASSE or RIS de VEAU aux

CHAMPIGNON (Sauce au Yin.)

4 sweet breads, 1 sliver of salt fat meat

or bacon, 1 onion, 1 small can mushrooms,

1 tablespoon butter, 1 tablespoon flour,

sprig of thyme, 1 tablespoon of minced

garlic and parsley, 1 pt. of beef stock, 2

birdeyes or equivalent hot pepper, salt and

pepper to taste, 1 glass white wine.

Fry sweetbread well and remove from

saucepan. Fry fat salt meat in butter or lard

then brown flour, onion, mushrooms,

(drained). Then add all other seasoning

and let smother, now add mushroom water

and beef stock and let come to a hard boil.

Return sweetbreads then let simmer for

about one-half hour. Insert wine about 20

minutes before serving. Serve with potato

chips and Petit Pois Fins. It may also be

used to fill Patty shells but when this is

done use a little more flour in the Roux.

WILD DUCKS STEWED with TURNIPS

2 wild ducks, 2 bunches of turnips or about

2 doz. medium size, 1 onion, 1 kitchen

· spoon lard, 1 tablespoon flour, 1 tablespoon

minced garlic and parsley, sprig of thyme,

small piece of hot pepper, 1 pt. of hot

water, salt and pepper to taste.

Clean ducks and cut up into pieces rinse

and dry. Heat lard and fry duck well. Remove

from pot and this same grease make

roux with flour and onion. Also fry peeled

turnips on all sides. Insert hot water and

other seasonings and let all come to a hard

boil. Replace duck and then let simmer

for one hour or more. If ducks are fat there

will be too much grease, remove before

serving.

VEAL GRILLADE AND GRITS

2 veal rounds, 1 onion, 2 tomatoes, garlic

and parsley, 1 sweet green pepper, thyme,

salt and pepper, 2 tablespoons /tour, 2

birdeyes, beef broth.

Cut rounds into large pieces, salt and pepper,

fry in Yz kitchen spoon lard. Remove

from fire and . brown flour in same grease,

then onion) green pepper, tomatoes and

other season·ings. Pour · in 1 cup of beef

broth or hot water and let boil, then return

veal to gravy and let simmer for Yz

hour or more, according to quality of

rounds. Serve with boiled grits and fried

bacon if desired.

-17-







FRAISE de VEAU a Ia CAROUCHET

(Chitterlings)

Wash well two lbs. chitterlings. in cold

water. Place in hot water, and bot! for 20

minutes. Add a sprig of thyme a0:d bay

leaf and a small piece of celery. Stram and

cut into mushroom size pieces. Add to

following gravv:

Melt a stick of butter in deep saucet;tan,

fry' one cup or more of chopped s~allots,

2 cloves or garlic; let same brc_>wn hghtly,

add 1 tablespoon of flour, a pmch of cayenne

pepper, to taste. When well smothered

add 1 qt. of beef stock or hot water.

Let gravy and chitterling (chitlins as the

negroes call it) boil, then simmer for Yz

hr. or more. Remove from fire and add a

small bottle of capers and three egg yolks

that have been well beaten with a small

quantity of cold water. Insert one tablespoon

of minced parsley, . serve. very hot,

being careful not to let bot! agam as yolks

of eggs will brush or curdle.

STUFFED VEAL POCKET a Ia MAYLIE

( Epaule de Veau Fa rei)

1 veal shoulder, (have bone removed to

form pocket) one-quarter lb. of fat green

shoulder, (salted pork) 1 tablespoon of

garlic and parsley, (minced) 2 cups ·of the

inside of stale bread, leaves of a. sprtg of

thyme, 5 to 6 eggs, salt and pepper to taste.

Wipe veal and ·pocket well with a damp

towel. Make stuffing as follows:

Mince salt meat and fat with garlic, parsley,

and thyme. Place this in a bowl and

add dry bread. break eggs into this, beat

and mash into a pulp, salt and pepper to

taste. Stuff pocket and sew. Lard veal well

and place in baking pan. After same begins

·to bake, salt and pepper and as it browns

bast01 and turn. Salt and pepper other side

again basting often. It should bake slowly

for about two hours. A little water may be

added as juice drys. When roast is taken

from pan, remove the grease as much as

possible and dilute a little water in pan so

as to make gravy with the dried juice.

Slice roast across so that meat surrounds

stuffing. Serve with a chicory or other

green salad.

I I

LAMB AND TURNIP-Bonne Menagere*

2 lbs. lamb brisket /or stew, 1 doz. turnips,

1 narrow strip of /at salt meat, 1 onion,

1 tomato or equivalent can tomato, 1 tablespoon

flour, branch of celery, 1 tablespoon

minced Pa1·sley and garlic, thyme, 2 birdeye

peppers, salt and pepper to taste, 1 pt.

of hot water or stock.

Peel turnips, and if small leave whole, or

else cut in two. Fry lamb, then turnips and

remove from pot. Brown flour, then salt

meat, onion, and tomato and pour in about

1 pt. of hot water or stock. Insert all other

seasonings and let come to a hard boil.

Return lamb and turnips and simmer for

1 hr.

NOTE:

The word· bonne-menagere means good

manager, and it is this last who can and

will make use of left-overs to make savory

dishes. The above recipe calls for lamb

brisket. If any left-over roast lamb is available

use it, (after cutting off the bone)

along with juice and gravy. This is an excellent

substitute, and makes a most palatable

dish.

BRAINS AU BEURRE NOIR

One calf brain, butter for sauce, 1 tablespoon

parsley, 1 onion, thyme and parsley,

salt and pepper.

Prepare brains by plunging in cold water

to remove blood and fine skins that envelope

same. Then blanch in scalding water.

Fry in butter and a little flour. Insert

minced onion or shallot add thyme and

parsley (minced). Season to taste and serve

with a sauce as follows:

BROWN BUTTER SAUCE

Melt 2 tablespoons of butter in a saucepan

and when it begins to brown add a sprig

of parsley and let brown a minute or so

longer. Now add 2 tablespoons of lemon ·

and let simmer another minute or so. Serve

hot with the above recipe or broiled fish.

JAMBALAYA a Ia CREOLE

(This is a popular Spanish-Creole dish, and

a great favorite in N. 0.)

1 Y2 cups of Louisiana Rice, 1 tabfespoon

butter. 1 slice of raw fat ham, 1 doz.

chaurice (hot pork sausage), 1 cup boiled

shrimp, 1 minced onion, 2 Creole tomatoes,

1 sweet green pepper, sprig of thyme, 1 bay

leaf, 2 cloves, 1 tablespoon minced garlic

and parsley, 1 Y2 'qts. of beef stock and

water, salt and pepper to taste, Cayenne,

if desired very hot,

Cut ham into small pieces, fry it and

shrimp and chaurice in butter. Add onwn

and green pepper then tomatoes. Add herbs

and garlic and parsley then hot beef stock

and water, salt and pepper and boil a few

minutes. Add rice which has been carefully

washed. Cayenne may be added. Cook

until rice is done or swelled, but not mushy

and serve hot.

-18-













BROILED SQUAB ON TOAST

A pair of Squab (young pigeon before

leaving nest), sweet oil, lemon, and bacon

strips, salt and pepper, bread for toast.

Clean and split birds down the back to

make 4 portions. Salt and pepper and saturate

with olive oil and lemon juice. Place

in flat pan after pinning on bacon strips

with tooth picks. Broil on both sides in

oven. Toast and butter bread and place

squab on same. Serve with shoe-string or

french fried potatoes. Garnish with parsley

and lemon and serve with a green salad

such as ro_quette or cress.

NOTE:

Dove and spring chicken are also prepared

as the above. Small wild birds, too, except

that they are left whole.

LEG OF LAMB ROAST (OR BEEF RIB

ROAST) AND MINT JELLY

1 lamb leg, a few butto.ns of garlic, salt

and pepper, Mint Jelly, parsley.

Usu~lly, lamb is served in New Orl':!ans

as a standing dish for the Easter dinner.

Wipe with a damp towel. Insert whole

. garlic in lamb by making a hole with a

pointed knife. Put a buttoon in here and

there. Dredge with lard, salt and pepper

well. Place in a quick oven and bake, basting

every 10 minutes. It should

never be too cooked, as Creoles serve it

rare. W'hcn pricked with a fork if juice

runs out, it will be ready to serve. Serve

with a mint jelly and its own juice.

Roast beef is prP.pared likewise, but one

must select a full cut of tenderloin of about

-4 or 5 ribs. By le.aving the bones in the

roast the meat will be sweeter. Beef .roa!>t

should always be rate allowing about 15

minutes to every pound. Serve with its

own gravy and Potato Salad. ·

NOTE:

To avoid shrinkage of roast of any kind.

cook same slowly with fat side up. A roast

put into the oven before the heat is turned

on will turn out better.

CIVET de LAPIN (RABBIT)

A pair of young rabbits, 2 tablespoons

flour, 1 minced onion, 2 tomatoes or 2

kitchen spoons of semi-thick tomato paste,

1 bay lea/, sprig of thyme, 1 tablespoon

minced garlic and pepper, Yz glass claret,

1 qt. beef stock or hot water, a piece of hot

pepper, salt and pepper to taste. (If possibl~

chives should be used instead of onion.)

Clean and cut rabbits into pieces. Let marinate

over night to remove wild taste. Marinate

is to steep in liquor made of vinegar

sliced orlions, bay leaf, thyme, parsley

whole spice, salt and pepper, and hot pep~

per. When ready to prepare civet, remove

rabbit from liquor, rinse and dry, then fry

on all sides. Brown onion in flour, then

add tomatoes. Let smother well before adding

hot stock. Let come to a boil and insert

all other seasonings. Cover well and simmer

for one hour or more. Pour in wine a short

while before serving. Serve with Potato

Croquettes.

STEWED CUISSON de CHEVREUIL

(VENISON)

Rin~e hau!lch or a piece of venison and

marmate JUSt as is done for rabbit. UsP

same _Proportions. and ingredients and prepare

Just. as for ctve~, using any style potatoes

or rtce to go wtth it.

BAKED MALLARD DUCKS

1 Pair of wild ducks, 1 kitchen spoon butter,

4 cloves of garlic and 6 olives, salt

and pepper.

Clean ducks and rinse and dry. Salt and

pepper well inside and out and place 2

cloves of garlic and 3 olives in each duck

with part of butter. Rub a piece of stale

crust with garlic and place in opening.

Truss and place ducks in baking pan with .

lard and melted butter on top of birds.

Pour over two to four tablespoons water

and set in a hot oven and bake about

one half hour. Wild ducks should not be

cooked dry and so they must be basted.

BRAIZED QUAIL

6 quail, 1 tablespoon minced carrot, 1

tablespoon minced green onion, ~ cup of

water, 2 heaping tablespoons of butter, 6

strips of bacon, salt and pepper to t11ste.

Choose 6 fat quail, clean, singe, truss, and

wipe well. Wrap a slice of .bacon around

each bird and pin with a toothpick. Melt

the butter in a saucepan and place quail

in same letting them brown slightly. Add

minced carrot and onion and let brown

also. Insert water and let simmer a little,

then set saucepan in oven and cover with

buttered paper. Cook for about 20 minutes.

NOTE:

The above thre::! recipes are given for the

convenience of tnose who wish to prepare

them at home. Restaurants in Louisiana

are not permitted to serve wild game.

-19-













POYDRAS MARKET IN THE 1880'S -- PICTURE

















The Wisteria, Our Spring Glory

The famous wisteria that grows through the roof of

Maylie's Restaurant and twines about its balconies for almost

the entire circumference of the building, is generally in bloom

for several weeks in the spring.

The wisteria's source, much to the amazement of the uninitiated,

is inside the restaurant. Though of only as a vine,

its treelike trunk is a constant source of wonder. This wisteria

is over fifty years old; drinks up a .bucket of water daily, and

legend has it that all the leftover wine is poured into its roots

to make the blossoms deeper in color.

Almost unbelievable is the fact that the vine's roots have

not had any sunlight or rainwater in nearly 35 years, because

of the fact that it was enclosed when the two buildings were

joined. Since then, the glass around the enclosure has been

cracked many times, due to the vine's growth.

The wisteria has brought into being a quaint custom.

Originated by William Maylie, Sr., patrons and guests of the

restaurant, on their first visit are asked to make a wish on the

wisteria trunk. Legend has it that the wish is sure to come

true.

-21-













Vegetables ·

POLE BEANS AND SMOKED PORK

2 lbs. string beans, 1 onion, 1 slice smoked

Pork (about 1 inch thick), 6 to 8 new Irish

potatoes, 1 sprig of thyme, 2 cloves of garlic,

0 tablespoon flour, salt and pepper to taste.

l.ut each side of bean to remove string.

Rinse and drip in collander. Fry salt meat

on both sides, then make a roux of flour,

onion, thyme, and garlic. Pour in about

one half glass of hot water and let come to

a quick boil. Decrease heat after inserting

string beans, let simmer until beans are

nearly done, then add potatoes. Salt and

pepper to taste. If string beans are parboiled

at first, they will take less time to

cook in gravy, but they will lose a part of

their flavor.

CREOLE CABBAGE AND CORN BEEF

I head of Creole Cabbage, 1 onion, 1 lb.

cornbee/, 2 or 3 cloves, 1 sprig of thyme,

piece of hot red pepper, 2 buttons garlic,

2 or 3 large Irish potatoes.

Select a cabbage with fresh green and white

leaves. As a rule, the Creole cabbage is the

best, but the white may be substituted. This

last must be scalded to remove its strong

taste. Remove and discard the outer leaves.

Then, cut the cabbage into 4 or 6 pieces,

and cut away the hard parts as much as

possible. Boil cabbage with cornbeef. Fry

onion and whole garlic and add with cloves,

thyme and hot pepper to cabbage. Let all

smother for an hour or more. Put potatoes

in whole about Y2 hour before ready to

serve or long enough to cook through.

Salt and pepper to taste.

YOUNG CORN IN CREOLE SAUCE

~ doz. tender cob corn.

Remove all silk from corn and cleanse well.

Cut grain off cob finely scraping same to

get all the milk and thickness. Make a

Creole gravy following any foregoing recipe

explaining same. Add corn after it has

been browned. Let all smother well, but

stir often to prevent scorching.

MME. ESPARBE'S CHOU-CROUTE

AU PORK

2 lbs. Satterkrattt, 10 lbs. fresh pork, 0

lb. salt pork, piece of hot pepper, sprig of

thyme, 2 clove5, 2 buttons of garlic, 1 small

onion, 3 large Irish potatoes.

Soak kraut for about 2 hours. If it still has

too much vinegar, let hot water run

through same. Desalt pork and fry with

the fresh piece. Mash the whole garlic

and with the onion fry with pork. Insert

kraut and rest of seasonings and cover.

Let smother well stirring occasionally.

When about half done insert halved potatoes.

Continue cooking and if kraut becomes

too dry pour in a little water to

keep from scorching.

STUFFED CABBAGE

1 Creole cabb.:zge, 1 cup of minced /at boiled

ham, 1 onion, · 1 tablespoon butter, 1 tablespoon

minced garlic and parsley, leaves of

one sprig of thyme, 2 bird eye peppers, 1

cup or more of wet milked French stale

bread, 2 eggs,. salt and pepper to taste. ·

Wash cabbage thoroughly and remove outer

leaves. Parboil and drain. Open cabbage

leaves carefully without breaking so that

it can be filled in between with the fol!owing

stuffing. Fry the onion and ham in

butter, and add this to the squeezed wet

bread with all the seasonings. Mash all

well in order to have a smooth filling. Beat

eggs into this well. If too dry add a little

milk. After stuffing cabbage, tie with a

heavy white thread, making it go around

and across several times. Bake in oven

about 20 minutes or more with a little butter.

When done remove thread and slice

across and serve hot with a Creole gravy.

RED BEANS AND RICE ALBERT*

1 qt. red beans (hand picked are best) , 1

slice of /at raw ham or ham bone, 1 otzion,

1 carrot, small piece of green sweet pepper,

salt and pepper to taste, sprig of thyme.

\Vash and soak beans over night. When

ready to cook drain off water and put

beans in fresh cold water, being sure there

is enough, as beans must cook thoroughly.

After water has heated, let simmer until

beans are semi-cooked before adding fried

ham or salt pork, .onion and carrot. Add

green pepper and thyme and salt and pepper

to taste. Let boil slowly for an hour or

more. Serve with Louisiana boiled rice.

NOTE:

The above was named. for the negro

cook, Albert Booth Campbell, who has

been with Maylie's Restaurant for forty

years, and, incidentally, is its oldest employee.

-22-







NAVY BEANS AU JUS D'AGNEAU

(Lamb)

1 lb.. navy beans, 1 ankle bone of salted

pork, 1 onion, 1 tablespoon of minced

rarlic and parsley, sprig of thyme, 2

whole, cloves, salt and pepper to taste

and 2 kitchen spoons of gravy from

lamb roast.

Navy beans go excellently with lamb

roast. Th!s was one of the dishes Mme.

Esparbe served weekly.

Wash, cover beans with water and soak

over-night. In the morning bring to a

boil. Let salted ankle bone also come

to a boil to remove some of the salt.

Fry same on both sides and add cut

onion and let brown slightly. Add beans

and water to onion and let all come to a

hard boil. Now add garlic, parsley, thyme,

cloves and a little salt and pepper. Let all

simmer until well done. Add lamb roast

gravy when ready to serve.

An economical way to cook navy beans is

to use the left-over lamb bone instead of

the salt meat.

MME. ESPARBE'S HAM AND

LIMA BEANS

1 medium thick slice of smoked ham, 1

cttP of Baby Lima Beans, a little flour,

1 onion minced, 1 large Creole tomato,

1 t a b l e s p o o n green sweet pepper, 1

tablespoon minced garlic and parsley,

thyme, salt and pepper to taste, 2 or 3

drops of peppered oil 1~ cups beef broth.

Fry ham whole, then onion, green pepper

and tomato in just a little flour (about

1 tsp.) as some beans will dissolve enough

to make the gravy thick. Insert stock and

all other seasoning. Cover well and let

stew on a simmer for Y2 to three-quarters

of an hour. Stir occasionally. If desired,

Irish potatoes may be added, otherwise

serve with rice.

HAM AND PEAS BONNE FEMME*

1 slice of /at raw ham (at least ~ inch

thick), 2 lbs. small green peas or 1 can

petit pois fin, 1 small onion, minced,

~ tablespoon flour, 1 lb. small New

Irish potatoes, 1 tablespoon minced garlic

and parsley, ~ kitchen spoon lard or

butter, sprig of thyme, 2 cloves, about one

glass of hot water or water from canned

peas, dash of tabasco, salt and pepper.

Wash and dry slice of ham. Fry whole and

set aside. Brown flour in this same grease,

then onion and potatoes. Add water and

let come· to a hard boil. Insert hams

thyme and other seasonings, then drained

green peas. If fresh peas are used parboil

first. Let all simmer well, for one hour.

CONGRI OR COWPEAS, CORN,

HAM AND RICE':'

1 cup of Louisiana rice, l cups cowpeas, 1

cup of corn, 1 onion, 1 tomato, 1 cup of

diced ham, 1 tablespoon of minced gar·

lie and parsley, sprig of thyme, a little

cayenne, salt and pepper to taste, a piece

of sweet green pepper.

Parboil fresh cowpeas, boil the rice separately

until nearly done. Fry ham, onion,

then tomato and green pepper, and

let smother awhile. Add corn, garlic and

parsley. Pour off water from cowpeas and

add them with rest of seasonings to rice.

Let all simmer until rice has absorbed

gravy.

NOTE:

This is one of the many Creole dishes

prepared by eighty year-old Tante Therese

Coquillion, one of · the old negro Creole

cooks who was in the employ of the Maylie

family for over thirty years. ·

HAM MOUSSE*

About ~ cup left over fat ham or fresh

ham, ~ cup croutons of bread, 1 teaspoon

parsley, 1 tablespoon butter, about 2 tablespoons

milk, salt and pepper to taste, 4 to

6 eggs.

Cut ham into one inch pieces. Heat butter

well, taking good care not to burn. Insert

ham and let fry on all sides, then brown

croutons. Beat eggs until fluffy, adding

milk, parsley, salt and pepper. Pour into

ham and stir back and forth with a

kitchen fork, finally pushing omelette to

one side of skillet. This will make omelette

turn over into an oval shape. Serve with

a Creole sauce of tomatoes, onions and

green pepper.

STRING'BEANS JARDINIERE

2 qts. fresh string beans, 1 tablespoon flour;

1 onion, 1 lb. spareribs or raw bam, 1

tomato, garlic, parsley, thyme, 6 Red Irish

potatoes, salt and pepper to taste, 2 birdeyes.

Select very fat and tender beans. Pare both

sides of bean to remove strings. Wash and

-23-







parboil. Drain and put into roux made

of flour, onion, tomato, and seasonings. If

ham is used fry same, otherwise drop parboiled

spareribs into beans. Pour a little

hot water into beans to make a short

gravy and to cook potatoes. Before serving

put in a little butter.

SQUASH OR CARROTS AU BEURRE

1h doz. squash, 1 onion, sliver of salt meat,

salt and pepper to taste ,one tablespoon or

more of butter, parsley.

Peel, core, and cut squash into small pieces.

Rinse and place in saucepan to smother

in their own water. After having simmered

.insert onion which has been frierd in butter

and salt-meat. Let all smother together

well, covering pot. Occasionally stir to

prevent scorching. Squash should have a

partly brownish look when done.

Carrots may be cooked same as above. They

have a natural sweetish taste when prepared

. -this way and remind one of sweet potatoes.

CAULIFLOWER AU GRATIN

1 large cauliflower or 2 small ones, __ 1

onion, about 1h stick of butter, 2

birdeyes, grated cheese, lemon, salt and

pepper, breadcrumbs.

Put cauliflower, salt, onion and birdeyes

in a pot of cold water. Parboil or neatly

so. Drain and place Yz of the flowerettes

and cut stems in a pyrex or baking dish.

Dot ·with butter, sprinkle with cheese

(Gruyere) and then squeeze in a little lemon.

Repeat with rest of ingredients but

this time place slices of lemon instead of

juice. Sprinkle well with breadcrumbs and

bake in moderate oven.

STUFFED MIRLETONS (vegetable

pears)

EGGPLANTS OR SQUASH

3 to 6 of any of the above, 1 oniotz,, 1

tomato, -1 very small green sweet pepper,

1 cup of squeezed milked bread, 2 cups of

minced boiled ham or equivalent of boiled

shrimp, ( 1 cup of each may be used if

desired), sprig of thyme, 2 birdeyes, 1

tablespoo11- minced garlic and parsley, 2

tablespoons butter, 2 eggs, breadcrumbs.

Boil vegtables after halving. Spoon out

meat and remove seeds. Heat Yz butter

and fry minced onion, minced green pepper,

skinned and seeded tomato. Saute well,

add minced meat and let fry again. Now

-24-

insert bread and all seasonings and part

of remaining butter. Smother and mash

.bread into vegetable pulp so that it will

. be of a smooth consistency. Remove and

let cool, and then beat egg in well.

Stuff skin shells and sprinkle with crumbs

and dot with butter. Bake in a moderate

oven.

FRESH SPINACH AND EGGS

4 to 6 bunches of spinach (according to

size), 2 or 3 shallots, 1 sliv.er of salt meat,

(about the size of a piece of bacon), 1h

stick of butter, a little milk, salt and pepper

to taste, breadcrumbs, 2 hard-boiled

eggs.

Tear spinach leaves from stems. Wash

thoroughly and boil until done. Drain off

water and chop. Heat half of butter, fry

saltmeat and whole shallot then add 'ipinach.

Salt and pepper, and as spinach absorbs

buttec add a little rich milk. Continue

cooking and then add rest of butter.

If desired, olive oil may be used instead

of butter. Place in deep dish, sprinkle with

coarse buttered crumbs and top with quartered

eggs.

I

POMME DE TERRE SOUFFLE

(Puffed Potatoes)

These puffed potatoes look easy to cook

but it's only after several trials that one

gets the nack 0f succeeding. So don't be

discouraged if your first attempts are failures.

First of all the potatoes should be of a

rather starchy kind. Pare and cut into very

thin slices, as for chips. Immerse in ice

water several minutes and then wipe dry.

Have two pots of cooking fat. One with

fat slightly heated to cook slowly about a

dozen or more pieces. When nearly done

or soft remove and let cool. In other pot

fat should be very hot. The half-cooked

potatoes are placed in a wire frying basket

and then immersed in boiling fat. They

will puff up in a little while. They should

be salted and served immediately.

IRISH POTATO CROQUETTES

6 large potatoes, 1 ,·tick of butter, 3 eggs,

salt and pepper to taste.

Boil potatoes in :acket, cool, peel and mash.

Add butter, salt and pepper. Beat eggs

(leaving one white out) and blend well

with potatoes. Form oblong rolls and

pass each one in flour and then in slightly

beaten egg white. l'ry a few at a time in

deep hot fat. Serve immediately with

meat or fish in sauce.







BAKED BRUSSEL SPROUTS

AU GRATIN

1 qt. of Brmsel Sprouts, 6 green onions or

shallots, 1 tablespoon flour, 2 tablespoons

butter, 1 sliver of fat salt meat, 1 tablespoon

minced garlic and parsley, sprig of

thyme, salt and pepper to taste, 1 glass

hot stock· or water, grated cheese, crumbs.

Parboil sprouts. Place in baking dish. Fry

onion in butter and flour, add all other

seasonings then hot stock. Let come to a

complete boil. Pour over sprouts and

sprinkle with cheese and bread crumbs.

Bake in a slow oven until brown. Serve

with more grated cheese on the side.

CHEESED BROCCOLI IN

DRAWN BUTTER

Care .must be taken to prepare broccoli by

removing tough · covering from the stems.

Cut the head off the stem about one inch

from top. Remove leaves but retain tender

ones and boil with stems. Just before they

are done put in heads and boil for 10 minutes

or more. Drain and add drawn butter,

salt and pepper and grated cheese (Gruyere

or Parmesian). If one cares for the Italian

touch, insert several pieces of garlic and a

little olive oil while boiling.

FRIED OR BROILED CREOLE

TOMATOES I

4 to 6 medium Creole tomatoes, 1 tablespoon

or more butter or good oil, salt and

pepper to taste, bread crumbs.

Cut off each end of tomato and if not too

large, cut across in half, otherwise in three.

·Have the oil hot and place slices in to

fry quickly, watch carefully that they do

not scorch. Turn over and fry on other

side. Creole tomatoes are more firm, having

less seed and more pulp. Remove to

platter and sprinkle bread crumbs that

have been sauted in grease left from tomatoes

with a little minced parsley. If

broiled, place in oil in a shallow pan under

flame.

SOME INTERESTING FACTS

Clem Dazet, bartender for many years, shows visitors the "Volstead

Museum" that was padlocked in 1918. Inside the bar on

an enclosed shelf are bottles of imported Gin, Benedictine, Prunelle,

Jung, Peychaud, and 45-year-or-more-old Angostura bitters,

Maraschino and Curacao.

If William H. Maylie could have cashed in his restaurant's

licenses, he could have lived well on the proceeds. He once said,

as he proudly displayed what he called "the largest collection of

restaurant and bar licenses in the United States," "these are

fifty thousand dollars worth of city licenses and that doesn't include

internal revenue."

If one has time to linger after partaking of a meal at Maylie's,

it is the pleasure of the proprietor to have you look over the

three large registers.

One finds signatures, remarks and compliments of many notables

such as: Gifford Pinchot, Irwin Cobb, Maclyn Arbuckle,

Otis Skinner, Will Rogers, Raymond Hitchcock, Robert Mackey,

Freddie Walsh, Richard Mansfield, John Drew, Jim Corbett,

Amelia Bingham, actress, Ruth Law, aviatrix, and the French

aviator "Paulin"-(first World War).

Very small children are seldom brought to the restaurant, but

when this happens Mr. May lie has a high chair brought to make

the "tot" more comfortable. This chair was the Maylie brothers'

high baby chair and has first place among the collection of old

things.

-25-













Omelettes

DES OEUFS AU DIABLEf.'

( Deviled Eg.gs)

!h doz. bard boiled eggs (halved), 1 level

tablespoon each of butter and lard, !h

large can of ltalienne and very red

tomatoes, 1 tablespoon flour, 1 kitchen

spoon minced green onions, 1 tablespoon

minced garlic t,lnd parsley, leaves of a sprig

of thyme, 1 !h cttfs bot water, a piece of

bot pepper, salt a11d pepper to taste.

Heat butter and l~rd and fry egg halves

on both sides, being careful to keep yellows

in place. Remove from skillet, in this

same grease, brown flour then onion and

tomatoes. Let crok thoroughly, then add

stock or hot water and rest of seasonings.

Simmer a little and then replace egg halves

with yellows up. Simmer until gravt has

thickened and serve with buttered toast

and a green salad.

OMELETTE SOUFFLE AUX HUITRES

(Puffy Oyster Omelette)

2 doz. tlery small oysters, 6 eggs, 6 slices

bacon, 6 tablespoons bot water, salt and

pepper to taste, minced parsley, cayenne,

watercress.

Fry bacon and remove to dish. In bacon

fat, fry blanched oysters slightly. Beat egg

yolks until thick and add parsley, salt and

pepper, sprinkle of cayenne and hot water.

Mix well. Fold in lightly the stiffly beaten

whites until thoroughly blended. Pour

egg mixture over hot bacon fat and oysters;

spread evenly. Cook over a slow fire, moving

pan occasionally so as to distribute

the heat evenly. When a delicate brown

underneath, put in a moderate oven (350

degrees F.) and bake until top is firm.

Fold and serve on a hot platter. Garnish

with bacon and watercress.

CRAYFISH OMELETTE A LA .

TOMATE~'

3 or 4 dozen cayenned boi~d cray/irh, 1

kitchen spoon minced shallots, !h kitchen

spoon butter, 2 large seeded Creole tomatoes,

1 tablespoon each of parsley and

green sweet pepper, salt and pepper to

taste.

Shell crayfish and remove any sand-string.

Saute them in butter, then brown shallots,

green pepper and tomatoes. Salt and pepper.

Let all fry well. Salt and pepper eggs

before bating well, turn into skillet, stirring

back and forth and away from the edges.

Turn oc{:asionally where soft and turn

into platter in an oval shape. Garnish

with sauted spinach and hard boiled eggs

if desired.

SPANISH OMELETTE

6 to 8 eggs, 2 large fresh tomatoes or 1

cup of canned tomatoes, 1 sweet green

pepper, 1 kitche7l spoon green onions, 2

or 3 tablespoons Clf rich milk, 1 tablespoon

butter.

Melt butter without browning, insert thinly

sliced onions, then ringed green pepper

and skinned and seeded tomatoes. Fry well

and then add well beaten eggs and milk.

Cook carefully stirring back and forth and

away from edges in oval form. Turn over

into platter and serve immediately.

PLAIN OMELETTE SOUFFLE AU RUM

6 eggs, salt, 1 tablespoon butter, powdered

sugar, !h cup of Rum.

Beat eggs until fluffy. Pour into hot butter

and stir with a tork back and forth. Turn

into a thick china platter. Sprinkle well

with powdered su~ar, drench with rum and

set afire. Serve hot. When afire, turn out

all lights and see the pretty blue light the

burning rum gives.

Salads and Dressings

Maylie's always serves salads at every meal,

oae for lunch and two for dinner. Broadly

speaking salads are of two varieties, light

and heavy. The light, of various salad

plants--lettuce, celery, romaine, chicory, ,

watercress, endive, etc.-are served as a

rule, with a light French dressing and are

a refreshing accompaniment to other

courses in a hearty meal. These may be

thoroughly tossed in a light way and served

immediately, especially if vinegar is u;;ed

in the dressing. The French usually like a

dash of sugar added to their greens. The

heavier usually have as a base the potato

· but practically all vegetables may be used

-cauliflower, carrots, celery (uncooked),

beans, asparagus. beets, hard-boiled eggs,

heart of artichok~s, etc. These have to

marinate at least ~1 hour so as to have

dressing penetrate for good taste. Shrimp,

chicken, potato, and the like must marinate

several hours and before serving

should be tossed ~gain.

APPLE SALAD

An apple a day keeps the doctor away, so

we might call this one a "Health Salad."

-26-









3 large apples, the heart of celery and a

few white brat~ches with white leaves, 1 ~

tablespoons of raisins, juice of ~ lemon,

2 tablespoons chopped pecans, avocado,

mayonnaise and green salad leaves, watercress

preferred.

Wash apples, pare and core, cut in small

pieces. Do likewise with raisins, celery

branches, and heart. Add lemon and mix

well. If too juicy, remove and blend with

mayonnaise. If put into a mold for individual

service, garnish each with crisp

greens, sprinkle with pecans and serve cold.

SPRING SALAD of Curly Shrimp,

Romaine and Watercress•:•

2 lbs. river shrimp, 2 heads romaine and

enough watercress for decoration as well

as to eat, 2 Creole tomatoes, 1 green pepper,

2 new white onions or a few shallots,

3 hard-boiled eggs, French dressing, 1

small dill pickle, 3 olives, 2 tablespoons

minced heart of celery, salt and pepper to

taste, a,nd paprika.

Boil shrimp, remove shells and sand vein.

Salt and pepper and saturate well with

some French dressing. Mash ·egg yellows

and make a smooth paste with more dressing.

Mince olives, ~ pickle, the white of

one egg and celery. Use the tender leaves

of romaine and place alternately with the

cress on a deep platter (around the edge).

Cut tomatoes in slices (same being skinned

and seeded) and place in center of platter

with cut green pepper and onions. Spread

shrimp and pour egg paste over this. Decorate

with minced olives, pickles, other

egg whites rings and celery. Strip the other

half of pickle and place here and there.

Garnish with watercress and paprika, and

chill before serving.

SHRIMP REMOULADE SALAD

2 lbs. shrimp (boiled, peeled and sand removed),

1 tablespoon vinegar, 1 tablespoon

of lemon, 6 tablespoons olive oil, 2 teaspoons

Creole mustard, 3 tablespoons tomato

ketchup, 3 green onions (shallots), with

part of green tops, minced heart of celery

with 4 or 5 branches and leaves, salt and

pepper to taste.

Mix shrimp in bowl, thoroughly, with the

dressing and set in refrigerator to marinate

for about 2 or 3 hours. When about to

serve, mix again and place portions on

sliced tomato. Garnish with lettuce or'

watercress and celery leaves. ·

POTATO SALAD

3 or 4 large .mealy potatoes, 2 hard-boiled

eggs, 1 onion or equivalent of shallots,

heart of celery and some of the white

leaves, 3 tablespoons · vinegar or lemon to

9 of olive oil, 1 teaspoon mustard, 1 small

dill pickle, 4 olives, salt and pepper to

taste, minced parsley.

Boil potatoes in the jacket and when cool

peel and slice. Place a layer of minced

shallots, . celery, pickle, olives, salt and

pepper. Repeat with more potatoes and

seasonings until all is used up. Cut hard

boiled eggs and place on top. Mix vinegar,

oil and mustard well and pour over this.

Sprinkle with parsley. Place in refrigerator

to marinate and before serving mix well

and dress with mayonnaise and lettuce

leaves.

CHICKEN SALAD in Avocado Cups .

2 cups of minced boiled chicken, 3 medium

avocadoes, and then use same other ingredients

as in potato salad with the exception

of adding a teaspoon of minced

caperS and mix with chicken accordingly.

Stuff balled avocadoes, garnishing with

chopped ·white of eggs, olives, and heart of

celery. Don't forget the stock from boiled

chicken makes an excellent consomme or

base of any desirable soup.

CREOLE SALAD BOWL

2 heads of Creole lettuce or romaine, 1

Bermuda onion sliced, 4 tomatoes (Creole),

skinned and seeded, 1 cucumber, peeled,

scored and sliced very thin, 1 doz. radishes,

peeled, leaving on a little of the red

skin, and 1 small sweet pepper cut in

ri.ngs, tender water cress, (the bowl should

be rubbed with garlic).

Make a French dressing of 1 tablespoon

each of vinegar and lemon and four to

six tablespoons olive oil (if a rich salad

is desired, otherwise use vegetable oil) salt

and pepper to taste. Place all ingredients,

except green: salads, in Salad Bowl. Pour

French dressing over all and toss well. Then

place lettuce, romaine, and watercress

around sides and on top. Place in refrigerator

to marinate a while and when

ready to serve mix again so that greens

will absorb some of the dressing but will

still retain their crispiness.

-27-







AVOCADO MAYONNAISE

Three-fourtks cup sieved alligator pear, 2

tablespoons evaporated milk, 1 tablespoon

lemon juice, 1 teaspoon prepared mustard,

paprika, salt and tabasco sauce to taste.

Add lemon juice to milk. Beat well and

add with seasonings to the sieved fruit. This

dressing keeps 3 or 4 days in refrigerator,

and is nice with salads, greens, fruit, tomatoes

and seafoods. If put into a ·bowl

rubbed with garlic one gets ali unusually

tasty dressing.

In one dining room will be found an antique mahogany buffet

with hand carved lion heads and lacy mouldings. This piece

of furniture has been acquired within the last quarter of a century,

but seems to have a prominent place among the many old

and cherished things in this 125-year-old building. One notices

particularly two unique pitchers, one for beer and the other for

ice water. The former of majolica on which one side has a view

of the famous French Opera House and on the other that of the

Old Absinthe House as it was originally. Below each view is

written, "From the home of Comus, Proteus, and Momus.'' The

other pitcher is odd because it is an ice water pitcher, though

the ice never touches the water, due to the fact that there is

a bladder shaped compartment -in which the ice is placed. To

make sure that these articles are not stolen, Mr. Maylie has them

secured under lock and key, in fact chained to the buffet.

The only arm chair left from the billiard room is still to be

see.n in the kitchen. It being rather comfortable, and still

sturdy, is a good resting place for the cook in leisure time between

meals.

-28-









Sweet Enttemets and Desserts

CANDIED SWEET POTATOES

0 dozen 'yam potatoes, 0 ftick butter, 1

cup of corn syrup, cinnamon or 1 cup of

brown sugar.

Wash potatoes well to remove all earth that

may cling to same. Put into a pot of water

and parboil. Remove from pot and let

cool enough to handle. If large, cut into

three slices, otherwise in half. (Before that,

peel off skin and any dark spots). Place

in baking dish and pour corn syrup over

same. Sprinkle cinnamon a11d dot with

·butter. Bake in moderate oven until potatoes

are partly brown and candied. Brown

sugar may be used instead of corn syrup.

PLAINTAIN AU CARAMEL

3 or 4 plantains, 1 cup of sugar, a little

water. ·

Plantains are somewhat like a banana, hut

are never eaten raw as their fiber is so

much coarser. It can be cooked in any way

that the banana is. Mme. Esparhe prepared

hers this way.

Peel,J:lnd cut in half, then slice lengthwise.

Fry on both sides until well done but not

scorched. As they brown, place in a dish

and keep warm. In the remaining grease

brown the sugar to make a caramel, and

pour in · a little water. Let carameled sugar

dissolve well and return fruit, being careful

not to break it. Let all simmer till

fruit is well saturated. Serve semi-warm

as a dessert or sweet entremet.

SWEET POTATO-PEACH COMPOTE*

6 medium size yams, 1 lb. dried peaches, 1

can corn syrup, 0 stick of butter, 0

teaspoon cinnamon.

Boil yams and remove skins while warm.

Soak and skin peaches, cook in a little

water and Yz syrup until nearly done.

Cut yams in half, place in baking dish.

Place cooked peaches on yams. Dot with

butter, pour in rest of syrup and

peach gravy. Sprinkle with cinnamon.

Bake until all becomes slightly browned

and well candied. Serve warm with

whipped cream.

PUDDING .de GIRAUMONT

(Cas haw or Pumpkin)

1 small cashaw, 3 to 4 eggs, 1 cup sugar,

20 teaspoons vanilla, 1 pint milk,

V4 lb. butter, cinnamon.

If cashaw is big, cut in half ar:d use one

part. Cut it into smaller pieces and bake

so as to make meat tender enough to

spoon out. Beat sugar and eggs together

and add to it warm milk and vanilla. Mix

well with mashed cashaw. Stir in cinnamon

and melted butter. Bake in a moderate

oven until top and edges begin to

brown. This can also be served as a dessert

or sweet entremet.

STRAWBERRY FLOATING ISLAND·':'

1 qt. f1·esh ripe strawberries, · i pt. or more

milk, 1 cup sttga1·, 3 or 4 eggs (according

to size), pinch of salt, and powde1·ed JUgar.

Wash .and mash strawberries. Cover with

half the granulated sugar. Beat egg yolks

with rest of sugar and a pinch of salt. Add

scalded milk gradually. Return to fire and

cook slowly, stirring constantly. \V'hen mixture

coats spoon well, set aside to cool.

When cold, add cold strawberry pulp and

put into a deep dish. Place islands of meringue

made of the egg whites and powdered

sugar beaten to a stiff froth. Drop

a little strawberry jam or slices of fresh

strawberries in middle of each island and

serve cold.

NOTE:

Meringue, dropped in scalding milk . and

lifted out immediately, is much improved

and very delicious.

FRESH STEWED PEACHES and

FRENCH CREAM':'

1 doz. or more large fresh peaches, 2 cups

of granulated sugar, V4 teaspoon cinnamon.

Pare and cut peaches, rinse and stew in

about one-quarter cup of water if not too

juicy. When partly done, add sugar and

cinnamon. Let simmer until well cooked,

being careful not tO"' scorch.

FRENCH CREAM

1 pt. fresh rich milk, 3 or 4 eggs, 1 cup

sugar, 10 teaspoon vanilla.

Make a custard cream with the milk, egg

yolks, some of the sugar and vanilla. Place

peaches iA. deep dish and pour cream over

this. Beat egg whites with rest of sugar

to a stiff froth and let brown slightly. Cool

before serving.

-29-







BUTTERSCOTCH AND ALMOND

SAUCE*

~ cup butter, two-thirds cup brown sugar

(lightly packed), 1 egg yolk, 3 tablespoons

milk, 1 egg white, 1 teaspoon of almond

essence (if desired substitute other essence).

Cream butter thoroughly, add sugar gradually,

and beat until light and fluffy. Add

the almond and egg yolk and then milk

gradually, beating it in thoroughly. Fold

in beaten egg white. Minced nut meats may

be added if desired.

APPLE SOUFFLE':'

6 or 8 large apples, 1 cup sugar, ~ teaspoon

cinnamon, 1 tablespoon butter.

Pare and cut and wash apples. Place in

saucepan that contains one quarter cup

of hot water. Stew a few minutes then

add one cup of sugar, (a little more if

apples are tart), cinnamon and butter.

Cook until tender but not. too wet. Place

in baking dish, and pour over with custard

cream, the next recipe.

CUSTARD CREAM

1 pint milk, 3 or 4 eggs, 2 spoon:s sugar

for each egg, 1 teaspoon vanilla.

Make a thin cooked vanilla custard cream,

using only yellows of eggs as whites are

used for meringue. Pour over apples and

·top with meringue. Place in oven and let

bake until custard becomes semi-set. May

be served warm or told.

WHISKIED BAKED APPLE

AMBROSIA*

1 doz. cooking apples, 1 ~ cups shredded

cocoanut, 3 cups of boiling water, 3 doz.

marshmallows, 2 or 3 teaspoons whisky,

good pinch of salt, chopped fat pecans.

Maraschino cherries and syrup for coloring,

cinnamon.

Heat marshmallows in salted hot water

until melted and free of lumps. Core and

peel apples and place in baking dish, pour

in above hot sauce. Sprinkle dash of cinnamon

on each apple. Bake in moderate

oven until apples are done. Remove from

oven and while hot stir whisky in sauce.

Let cool, then cover apples with cocoanut

that has been colored with cherry juice.

Sprinkle with fat pecan meats and top with

a cherry.

LIQUORED CRACKLIN BREAD*

(La Pate)

3 cups fine yellow cornmeal, 1 teaspoon

salt, 1 ~ cups broken cracklins, 1 cup sweet

milk, 2 tablespoons absinthe, 3 teaspoons

baking powder, 1 bay leaf, 2 cups boiling

water, 1 tablespoon lard.

Sift cornmeal and salt, scald with boiling

water, stirring to prevent lumps. Add

shortening, milk and baking powder. Beat

well then insert cracklins, bay leaf and

lastlv absinthe. Cook on top of stove,

being very careful to stir to avoid scorching.

When cornmeal is done and thick, pour

on a clean white cloth which is already

spread on a table. This dough should run

just enough to spread about one inch or

more thick. Let cool well so as to set, then

cut into narrow short pieces, and fry in

hot fat, browning both sides. Sprinkle

powdered sugar over each piece and serve

warm.

STRAWBERRY STRUDEL*

3 cups of flour, 1 teaspoonful baking

flour, 1 ~ tel/Spoons salt, ~ cup melted

butter, 2 beaten eggs, 1 cup of evaporated

milk, 2 tablespoons lemon juice, ~ cup

fresh strawberry jelly, 2 cups of chopped

ripe apples, ~ cup of nut meats, ~ cup

sugar, 2 teaspoons cinnamon and seperately

hot strawberry sauce.

Sift the flour with the baking powder

and salt. Combine the beaten eggs with

melted butter and lemon juice. Add the

liquid ingredients to the sifted dry ingredients

and mix lightly to .a smooth

dough. Divide the dough into two portions

and roll out on a floured surface.

Spread the dough with the strawberry

jelly, then the chopped apples and nut

meats. Sprinkle over with cinnamon and

sugar and roll each section like a jelly

roll and cut into two inch slices. Place

flat in a baking tin and bake 30 minutes

in a hot oven. Serve with warm fresh

strawberry sauce.

NOTE:

This is not considered a Creole dish but

·baving received a prize, it is included.

WHISKIED PRUNE PIE*

1 lb. dried extra large prunes, ~ lemon,

1 cup or more of sugar, 2 to 4 tablespoons

whisky (according to strength), pecans if

desired, a puff paste is preferable for this

pie but an ordinary flaky one will do.

-30---











Cook prunes and lemon. Prunes should

be soaked over night for several hours.

When nearly done, add sugar and let

come to a syrupy consistency. Cool, pit,

and add whisky. Add chopped pecans if

desired. Fill pie or small pastry shells and

place strips of dough crosswise. Dot with

a little butter and bake in a moderate oven.

Let cool before sprinkling with powdered

sugar.

I

LEONIE'S BEIGNETS SOUFFLE

1 cup prepared flour, 1 cup milk, 4 eggs,

rind of -!6 lemon, 1 tablespoon sugar, 2

teaspoons butter, 1 tablesj}{)on each of

whiskey and anisette, 1-!6. lbs. shortening

for frying, powdered sugar.

Boil milk with butter, sugar and lemon

rind. Sift flour three times. While milk is

boiling slowly pour flour gradually into

same stirring all the time until it forms

a ball. Let cool slightly and add each egg,

one at the time, to dough. Use hands and

blend thoroughly each time an egg is

added. Now add liquors and beat some more.

In a deep skillet or saucepan, heat sh.ortening

to nearly boiling point and drop by

3 or 4 tablespoons of dough. Cook slowly.

Stir or turn beignets occasionally. Each

one should be turned again and again

so that they will continue swelling as

they cook. Powdered sugar should be

well sprinkled over them. When properly

done these. beignets should be almost hollow,

that is why they take so long to cook

and are called souffle.

The success of this delicacy depends as

much and more on the cooking as it does

the preparation. Anyone who succeeds in

the making of Mrs. Leonie Canepa's

Beignets Souffle can well pat themselves

on the back. Hers are always "Cordon

Bleu."

PECANNED SOFT GINGERBREAD

OR "GATEAU MELASSE"

1 cup butter, .3 cups flour, 1 cup sugar,

1 cup black molasses, 2 eggs, 1 teaspoon

ginger, -!6 teaspoon cinnamon, 1 teaspoon

soda melted in 1 cup boiling water, 1 cup

minced pecans.

Cream butter and sugar. Add yolks of eggs

and spices, then melted soda .to molasses,

combine mixtures. Add flour and stiffly

beaten egg white. One cup of minced pecans

may be added as it richens the cake.

Bake in a slow oven. May be baked in

layer or whole. Use marshmallows and

lemon icing for filling and top.

PUDDING aux ETAGES (Layers),.

Stale sponge cake (in slices), tart jelly, .3

eggs, .3 cups milk, 6 tablespoons sugar, 2

teaspoons vanilla, 6 apples stewed almost

to a pulp, slightly sweetened and cinnamon

flavored. (Peaches or apricots may be substituted

for apples.)

Make a French custard with the yellows of

eggs, milk, sugar, and vanilla. Place part

of sliced cake in bottom of pudding

dish an~ spread over with tart jelly,

cover wtth rest of cake. Put cooked fruit

over all and pour in slowly cooked cream.

Bake in oven until custard is firm. Beat

egg whites and powdered sugar to make

a firm meringue. Spread over pudding

covering well. Return to oven to . brown

slightly. May be served cold or warm.

FRESH FRUIT SALAD IN WHITE

WINE

1 fresh pineapple, .3 navel oranges, 2 juicy

apples, 3 manderines, 1 grapefruit, .3

peaches, 2 pears, 1 doz. or more maraschino

cherries.

Pare and core all fruits and slice thin.

Sprinkle well with sugar and add cherries

and maraschino liquor. Let stand in refrigerator

a couple of hours so that pineapple

and apple will soften in the juices

of the other fruits. Before serving, pour

in a generous amount of good sherry or

madeira wine. Serve with a sponge cake.

CARAMEL CUSTARD A LA VANILLE

(Des Oeufs au Lait au Caramel)

1 qt. of fresh rich cow milk, 7 to 9 eggs,

according to size, ~ teaspoon salt, 1

measuring cup of sugar for custard plus

enough sugar to brown and coat bottom

and half the side of a baking dish, 2 or

more teaspoons of vannilla essence.

Scald milk with salt. Beat sugar and eggs

thoroughly, and pour a little of the hot

milk on the eggs and sugar and then add

gradually this last to rest of hot milk. Return

to fire . a while to slightly thicken,

then strain into baking dish which has

already been coated with the carameled

sugar. Stir in vanilla. Cook in oven after

placing dish in a pan of water. This custard

is very rich due to the amount of

eggs, but as it contains no thickener, otherwise,

is very light and digestible. Topped

with pineapple marmalade and chopped

pecans it becomes a very festive dessert.

-31-









FRESH PINEAPPLE and WINE CAKEs=:=

1 small ripe pineapple, ~ cup sugar, ·1

medium glass of white wine, cherries,

minced nuts, 6 large sponge muffins or

bakery wine cakes.

Pare pineapple and cut lengthwise in four.

Cut out core and slice each quarter into

slices about 1A inch thick. Place in deep

bowl, alternately with sugar. Pour wine

over all and let stand in refrigerator

over nite so that fruit will soften and juice

will be somewhat extracted. When r-eady

to serve, pour juice over sponge cakes and

heap with pineapples, topping with cherries

and minced nuts. If bakery cakes are used,

use only part of juice as they have already

been saturated.

MME. ESPARBE'S RIS AU LAIT

(Milk Rice)

1 cup rice, 1 qt. rich milk, ~ vanilla bean,

1 bay lea/, 1 cup sugar, salt.

Wash rice thoroughly and parboil in a

little water and salt. Add hot milk, bay

leaf, and vanilla bean. Let simmer until

rice has swelled. Add sugar and cook till

rice is very soft and the milk is thick.

This rice should be very wet in fact there

should be enough milk in it so that it will

pour when put into dish. It will thicken

as it cools. If desired a little caramel may

be poured on top.

NOTE:

If vanilla bean is not to be had, 2 or 3

teaspoons of the essence can be substituted.

CREPE SUZETTE

6 eggs, 1 cup of sweet cream, ~ cup of

milk, 1 cup of flour, 1 teaspoon salt, 2

tablespoons orange flower water, 2 tablespoons

sugar.

Beat the eggs, add sugar then liquid and

gradually the flour and salt to form a thin

paste. Have frying pan well greased

with butter. Use enough batter to cover

thinly the bottom of pan, frying one

crepe at a time and buttering pan each

time. To do this easily, take a dean

doth and tie on to a wooden spoon

or stick. Dip into a bowl of melted

butter and swab pan lightly. Cook each

crepe on both sides being careful not to

tear in turning. They should be exceedingly

thin. An expert can reverse the crepe by

flipping it up and turning at the same

time. Serve with the following sauce:

Crush 1 doz. lumps of sugar or equivalent

powdered sugar in the juice of half an

orange and half a lemon. Add this to onethird

of a cup of butter that is melted

in a chafing-dish platter. Heat all and

place folded crepes in same, and sprinkle

with powdered sugar. Add brandy, or rum,

cointreau, and absinthe, a little - of each

flavors it well. Saturate crepes well and

raise end of dish so that liquor will catch

afire. Serve hot.

BELLES CALLAS! TOUT CHAUD!

2 cups of flour, 2 eggs, 4 tablespoons sugar,

4 to 5 teaspoons baking powder, about 10

cups of cooked rice (cold or leftover), milk

and vanilla to taste, if this flavor is desired.

Beat the. whole eggs well, add sugar; flour;

baking powder. Blend well, then add

essence and milk, enough to make a thin

batter, then last add rice. See that the

rice is well distributed. Fry in deep shortening

and serve hot. Sprinkle with pow ..

dered sugar just before serving. These

cakes taste best when eaten with Louisiana

cane syrup.

PLANTATION COOKIES

~ cup each of brown and white sugar, 1

egg, ~ cup butter, 1Vz cup sifted flour,

~ teaspoon soda, Y4 teaspoon salt, 2 tablespoons

hot water,' ~ teaspoon vanilla, 1

7 -oz. bar of semi-sweet chocolate, ~1: cup

pecan meats chopped.

Cream butter or shortening, add sugars

and beaten egg. Mix salt in flour and melt

soda in the hot water. Mix both these alternately

with the first mixture. Add

chopped nuts and very small squares of

chocolate. Flavor with vanilla and drop

by teaspoons on a greased cookie sheet.

Bake 10 or 12 minutes in 375 degrees F.

About 50 cookies.

LOUISIANA SWEET POTATO

and PECAN PIE

For Pastry:

Sift 1 cup flour with 1A teaspoon salt. Cut

in 4 tablespoons of good butter. Add about

3 tablespoons of cold water or enough to

hold ingredients together. Roll and line

· pie plate.

Filling:

Combine 1 Yz cups mashed yams, Y2 cup

brown sugar, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, 1 teaspoon

ginger, ~ teaspoon salt, 1 Yz cups

scalded milk, 2 well beaten eggs. Cool and

fill unbaked pie shell. Bake in a moderate

oven (350 degrees F.) until nearly set,

about 20 minutes. Sprinkle with mixture

of ~ cup butter, Y2 cup brown sugar and

-32-











1 cup pecan meats. Continue baking until

custard is done, about three-quarters of

an hour in all. Serve wi.th fresh whipped

cream.

MME. ESPARBE'S HOT BISCUITS

One of Mme. Esparbe's biscuits was indeed

a meal in itself. She always made them

large, that is, high and wide. Tis true she

insisted on using fresh dairy butter and

ordered it from her milkman a day or

two before she intended baking for her

eleven o'clock "dejeuner." The following is

a small proportion of what she used but

enough for a small family:

4 cups of flour, 1 cup of fresh dairy butter,

1 cup milk, 8 heaping teaspoons baking

powder, 1 teaspoon salt.

Mix butter in sifted flour, using fingers.

Add milk, ·salt, and baking powder. Mix

well and roll out about Y2 inch thick or

thinner if flat biscuits are desired. Bake

in greased pans in a little more 'than a

moderate oven. These biscuits do not require

buttering as they are rich enough

already but if the butter is very fresh, a

little more salt may be added.

TANTE OPHELIA'S PLANTATION

CORN BREAD

-2 cups of fine yellow cornmeal, 1 cup

of wheat flour, 3 eggs, 2 teaspoons baking

powder, 0 teaspoon salt, 2 cups milk, 1

tablespoon sugar, 1 kitchen spoon lard.

Mix cornmeal, flour and salt and stir in

milk, then the beaten egg yolks, sugar,

and fold in whites. If possible, use a black

stove pan in which lard has been placed.

The pan should be very hot before pouring

in mixture. Bake until well done.

ONE-TWO-THREE-FOUR

CAKE MUFFINS

One cup of butter, Two cups sugar, Three

cups flour, Four eggs, 1 cup milk, 4 teaspoons

baking powder, three-quarters of a

teaspoon of salt, 1 teaspoon vanilla.

Add sugar gradually to creamed butter,

beating thoroughly. Add the beaten egg

yolk. Sift the dry ingredients together and

add alternately with milk to first mixture.

Fold in stiffly beaten egg whites. Drop

spoonfuls into muffin cups and bake in a

moderate oven. This amount makes two

large layers and may be filled with tart

jelly, or any marshmallow filling. Easy to

make and is deliciously rich.

FROZEN CREAM CHEESE*

4 dairy cream cheeses, 1 pt. sweet milk,

3 eggs, 2 cups sugar, 2 tablespoons sugar

for egg whites.

Cream yellows of eggs with sugar, add

milk, cream cheese. Whip 2 tablespoons

sugar with egg whites to a stiff froth.

Mix all thoroughly and freeze.

VANILLA ICE CREAM

WITH CRUSHED FRUIT

1 qt. of fresh milk, 4 eggs, 1 cup sugar, 1

can evaporated, unsweetened milk, 3 teaspoons

vanilla, 1 small can crushed pineapple,

1 cup crushed peaches, 0 cup of

minced maraschino cherries and liquid.

Scald milk, add a pinch pf salt. Beat yellow

of eggs with sugar and pour in the

scalded milk a little at a time. Return to

fire and let cook till slightly thickened

or when it coats spoon. Strain and let

cool before adding evaporated milk, vanilla,

and crushed fruits. Beat egg whites

to a stiff froth, and add to cream after

same has been put into freezer, if this

last is used, otherwise, mix before filling

refrigerator cups.

PURPLE PLUM SHERBERT

6 cups of plum pulp and juice, 2 cups of

sugar, (or more according to acidity of

fruit), juice of 0 lemon, water added to

make desired amount, whites of 3 eggs

beaten stiff.

Steam fruit with sugar and lemon. Strain

through . seive and let stand in their juice

until cold. Turn into freezer and add stiffly

beaten whites. Freeze hard, and serve with

lady finger or sponge cake.

STUFFED DATES GLACE

Pit a .pound of dates, stuff with meat of

Y2 of whole pecan and marshmallow. Cook

a syrup of granulated sugar and water

and when same is about to thread, place

dates in same. Remove dates seperately to

a buttered dish and let cool. Wrap each

in wax paper and they will keep indefinitely.

LA COLLE (Candy)

"La Colle" is a delicious kind of molasses

praline that is placed in white or wax

-33-

















paper cases. A favorite among the Creole,

young and old.

1 lb. of brown sugar, }1 pt. black molasses,

1 cup of fat pecan meats, butter about

size of a . pecan.

Boil the sugar and molasses to less than

Y2 the quantity. To this dark syrup, add

butter and one cup of pecan meats. When

it has become so boiled that it threads,

pour into small paper cases.

NOTE:

The candy recipes are not included in our

table d'hote menus, but because of their

old fashionedness and being typical of the

South, we hand them in for "lagniappe."

NEW ORLEANS PRALINES

2 cups brown sugar, 1 cup light molasses,

2 cups cream, 4 tablespoons butter, 1 teaspoon

vanilla, 1 qt. pecan meats.

Boil sugar, molasses, cream, and butter,

stirring all the time until a soft ball is

formed when a drop is placed in cold

water. Add vanilla, pour in nuts and stir

until it begins to sugar. Drop from tip of

spoon in small piles on butter pans.

NEVER-FAIL FROSTINGS

N0.1

4 tablespoons butter, 1 tablespoon cream,

4 tablespoons cocoa, 2 cups of 4X confection

sugar, ~ cup of minced nuts.

Melt the butter in the mixing bowl. Mix

sugar and cocoa and add gradually to the

butter. Add cream as needed. Spread on

cakes and sprinkle with nuts.

NO.2

Beat white of egg and add confectioner's

sugar gradually, dropping a little lemon

juice once in a while until icing is heavy

enough to spread.

COFFEE

Louisianians usually use Chicory to give

strength and body to their coffee. For

those who do not care for the pronounced

taste of chicory, a measure of any good

Southern coffee and chicory mixed with

an equal measure of plain coffee of the

same brand will give a very good and

tasty beverage. In Cafe-au-lait (coffee and

milk) the milk is boiled before adding to

black coffee. The richer the milk the better

the Cafe-au-lait.

DRIPPED COFFEE

~offee must be of the best quality and

tt must be fresh. Always bear in mind

the good Creole and southern cook does

not boil coffee. It must drip in a covered

strainer or coffee-pot--slowly until all the

flavor is extracted. · The water should be

~ept at the b?iling point and poured

tn small quanttty upon the grounds in

order to get the proper strength and aroma.

Wet the grounds first, then let set a few

minutes, before adding second pouring.

Then add more water only after grounds

have ceased to bubble. Keep pouring at

intervals, but be sure to keep the cover

on and spout of urn stopped to prevent

flavor from escaping. Allow 1 cup of any

good southern coffee with or without chicory

to make three or four cups of coffee.

CAFE ROYALE

To a cup of black coffee allow 2 lumps

of sugar but place them on the spoon, and

let cup hold same. Pour good cognac or

brandy (about 2 teaspoons) over sugar

and touch a lighted match to it.

CAFE BRULOT

Put a 2 inch piece of cinnamon stick

broken in half, Y2 dozen cloves, 8 or 10

lumps of sugar, a piece each of lemon

and orange peel, 3 jiggers of brandy or

cognac, in a warm silver bowl. Light and

let burn until sugar is dissolved, stirring

all the time Pour in about 4 half cups

of freshly dripped, strong, hot, black coffee,

stir with ladle until flame is quenched.

Serves about 4 or more.

-34-











Some Facts and Hints Concerning Creole Cookery

Pork is always roasted or fried well done.

Ham and bacon are broiled, baked, fried and boiled or stewed

with vegetables.

Veal is roasted, stewed, smothered, or fried, or panned when

cut into chops.

Mutton arid lamb are roasted, broiled, boiled or stewed. Should

be slightly rare when roasted.

Beef should always be roasted rare, broiled, or smothered.

The meat of wild game should marinate overnight. Venison is

roasted and cutlets are broiled. Mature venison is better after

marinating.

The excellence and flavor of roasts depends on frequent basting.

If color is to be kept in green vegetables, do not add salt while

boiling.

Unskinned fish should not be put in boiling water. Hot water

will not contract skin, however.

Creole cooks usually prefer deep, black iron pots and skillets,

as they assure a more even cooking temperature. Modern heavy

aluminum is a good substitute.

The boiled beef served at Maylie's is always dropped into boiling

water so that the juice remains in the meat. However, the

ordinary way to make soup meat is ·to place it in cold water and

then boil, so that all the nutriment is extracted.

-





AU BERRE: In butter.

AU GRATIN: All baked dishes that are

prepared and sprinkled with bread

crumbs.

BISQUE: A soup made with shellfish.

CIVET: A stew made of hare or rabbit

and so called because of the chives

(cives) used to add flavor.

COURTBOUILLON: A fish stew.

CROUTONS: Crusts of bread cut into

fancy shapes, toasted or fried in butter.

ENTREE: A side dish served between

courses.

Al::JX ETAGES: In layers.

ENTREMET SUCRE: A sweet by-dish.

A LA JARDINIERE: Pertaining to the

garden.

A LA MODE: After the latest fa:;hion.

LA PATE: A batter.

POULET: A chicken.

PRALINE: A Creole sugar cake made of

sugar and pecans or cocoanut.

PIQUANT: Highly seasoned with pepper.

REMOULADE: A salad dressing.

ROUX: A mixture of butter and flour.

ROT!: A roast.

SAUTE: Smothered and tossed.

SOUFFLE: Omelette or pudding whipped

very lightly.

VINAIGRETTE·: A salad dressing with

vinegar predominating.

VOL-AU-VENT: A large deep pie crust

made of puff paste.

Vegetables Used For Seasoning And Salads

CEPS: A strongly flavored mushroom.

CHICOREE: A green served mostly as a

salad.

LEEKS: A species of onions · for soup

. flavoring.

CELERY: An herb whose branches are

used for salad and flavor.

CERFEUIL or CHERVIL: A spicy or aromatic

parsley-like herb used in seasoning

gravies, soups and oysters. It is

now very scarce.

CAPERS: Flowering buds of the caper bush

used for pickling and for sauces.

SHALLOTS: A mild. small-size onion.

BELL PEPPER: A sweet green pepper,

piquant and aromatic.

ROMAINE: A long, narrow, leafy green

salad vegetable.

CHIVES: Small bulbous herb.

ROQUETTE: A vegetable resembling watercress.

CRESS: A winter and spring salad vegetable

WATERCRESS: A leafy plant grown in

and near running water.

MUSHROOMS: Flavoring vegetable for

sauces.

GARLIC: Strong, odorous, bulbous root.

THYME, PARSLEY, BAYLEAF: The principal

herbs used in these recipes, as

they are at all times available.

-







When You Dine at May lie's ...

When you dine at Mayli€s, you know immediately

that here at last is true Southern Creole Vookery. For

Mayli€'s Chefs know but one way to prepare their

delectable dishes-and that in the time honored tradition

of their forefathers-who were responsible for

the actual invention of many Creole dishes generations

ago.

Many of the recipes contained in this booklet are

"specialties of the house" at Maylie's-dishes originally

concocted in the 1870's, and still prepared and

served today with the same meticulous attention to

every detail that made them famous.

A visit to New Orleans is not complete without a

meal at Maylie's, for the names of the City and the

Restaurant are synonomous as centers for traditionally

fine, gloriously tasteful Creole Cook€ry.

May lie's Restaurant

"LA MAISON MAYLIE ET ESP ARBE"

Poydras and Dryades

New Orleans