John Sibley.
“Louisiana: An Account of the Red River and its Environs.”
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LOUISIANA.
AN ACCOUNT OF THE RED RIVER AND COUNTRY ADJACENT,
To General Henry Dearborn, Secretary of War.
SIR,
YOU request me to give you some account of Red river, and the country adjacent: I will endeavor to comply with your request, to the best of my knowlege and capacity. My personal knowlege of it is only from its mouth, to about 70 or 80 miles above Natchitoches, being, by the course of the river, near 400 miles. After that, what I can say of it is derived from information from others, on whose veracity I have great reliance; principally from Mr. Francis Grappe, who is my assistant and interpreter of Indian languages; whose father was a French officer, and superintendant of Indian affairs, at a post, or station, occupied by France, where they kept some soldiers, and had a factory, previous to the cession of Louisiana to Spain, situate nearly 500 miles, by the course of the river, above Natchitoches, where he, my informant, was born, and lived upwards of 30 years; his time during which, being occupied alternately as an assistant to his father, an Indian trader and hunter, with the advantage of some learning, and a very retentive memory, acquired an accurate knowlege of the river, as well as the languages of all the different Indian tribes of Louisiana, which with his having been Indian interpreter for the Spanish government for many years past, and (I believe) deservedly esteemed by the Indians, and all others, a man of strict integrity, has for many years, and does now possess their entire confidence, and a very extensive influence over them; and I have invariably found, that whatever information I have received from him, has been confirmed by every other intelligent person, having a knowlege of the same, with whom I have conversed.*
The confluence of Red river with the Mississippi, is by the course of the latter, estimated about 220 miles from New Orleans. Descending the Mississippi, after passing the panish line at the 31st degree of north latitude, it makes a remarkable turn to the westward, or nearly north-west, for some distance before you arrive at the mouth of Red river, as though notwithstanding the immense quantity of its waters already, from its almost numberless tributary streams, it was still desirous of a farther augmentation, by hastening its union with Red river (which, perhaps, is second only in dignity to it) that they might, from thence, flow on and join the ocean together, which for many leagues is forced to give place to its mighty current. But there are reasons for believing the Red river did not always unite with the Mississippi, as it does at present; and that no very great length of time has elapsed since the Mississippi left its ancient bed, some miles to the eastward, and took its course westwardly for the purpose of intermarrying with Red river. The mouth of the Chaffeli, which is now properly speaking, one of the outlets of the river Mississippi to the ocean, is just below, in sight of the junction of Red river with the Mississippi; and from its resemblance to Red river in size, growth on its banks, appearance and texture of soil, and differing from that of the Mississippi, induces strongly the belief that the Chaffeli was once but the continuation of Red river to the ocean, and that it had in its bed, no connection with the Mississippi. There is no doubt but the Mississippi has alternately occupied different places in the low grounds through which it meanders, almost from the high lands of one side to those of the other, for the average space of near thirty miles. These two great rivers happening to flow, for a distance, through the same mass of swamp, that annually is almost all inundated, it is not extraordinary that their channels should find their way together; the remarkable bend of the Mississippi, at this place, to the westward, seems to have been for the express purpose of forming this union; after which it returns to its former course.
In the month of March, 1803, I ascended Red river, from its mouth to Natchitoches, in an open boat, unless when I chose to land and walk across a point, or by the beauty of the river bank, the pleasantness of its groves, or the variety of its shrubs and flowers, I was invited ashore to gratify or please my curiosity. On entering the mouth of the river I found its waters turgid, of a red color, and of a brackish taste; and as the Mississippi was then falling, and Red river rising, found a current, from its mouth upwards, varying considerably in places, but averaging about two miles an hour, for the first hundred miles, which at that time, I found to be about the same in the Mississippi; but when that river is high, and Red river low, there is very little current in the latter, for sixty or seventy miles: the river for that distance is very crooked, increasing the distance, by it, from a straight line, more than two thirds; the general course of it nearly west: that I was able to ascertain, from hearing the morning gun at Fort Adams, for three or four mornings after entering the river, which was not at the greatest height by about fourteen feet; and all the low grounds, for near seventy miles, entirely overflowed like those of the Mississippi, which, in fact, is but a continuation of the same. Some places appeared, by the high water mark on the trees, to overflow not more than two or three feet, particularly the right bank, below the mouth of Black river, and the left bank above it; the growth, on the lowest places, willow and cotton wood, but on the highest, handsome oaks, swamp hickory, ash, grape vines, &c.
I made my calculation of our rate of ascent and distances up the river, by my watch, noting carefully with my pencil the minute of our stops and settings off; the inlets and outlets, remarkable bends in the river, and whatever I observed any way remarkable. About six miles from the mouth of the river, left side, there is a bayau, as it is called, comes in, that communicates with a lake called lake Long, which by another bayau, communicates again with the river, through which, when there is a swell in the river, boats can pass, and cut off about thirty miles, being only fourteen or fifteen through it, and about forty-five by the course of the river; and through the lake, there is very little or no current; but the passage is intricate and difficult to find; a stranger should not attempt it without a pilot; people have been lost in it for several days; but not difficult for one acquainted; we having no pilot on board to be depended on, kept the river.
From the mouth of Red river to the mouth of Black river, I made it thirty-one miles; the water of Black river is clear, and when contrasted with the water of Red river, has a black appearance. From the mouth of Black river, Red river makes a regular twining to the left for about eighteen miles, called the Grand Bend, forming a segment of nearly three fourths of a circle; when you arrive at the bayau that leads into lake Long, which, perhaps is in a right line, not exceeding fifteen miles from the mouth of the river. From Bayau Lake Long, to Avoyall landing, called Baker's landing, I made thirty-three miles, and the river is remarkably crooked. At this place the guns at Fort Adams are distinctly heard, and the sound appears to be but little south of east. We came through a bayau called Silver Bayau, that cut off, we understand, six miles; it was through the bayau about four miles. Until we arrived at Baker's landing, saw no spot of ground that did not overflow ; the high water mark generally from three to fifteen feet above its banks. After passing Black river, the edge of the banks near the river are highest; the land falls from the river back. At Baker's landing I went ashore; I understood, from Baker�s landing, cross the point, to Le Glass� landing, was only three or four miles, and by water fifteen; but I found it six at least, and met with some difficulty in getting from where I landed to the high land at Baker's house, for water, though at low water it is a dry cart road, and less than a mile. I found Baker and his family very hospitable and kind; Mr. Baker told me he was a native of Virginia, and had lived there upwards of thirty years. He was living on a tolerable good high piece of land, not prairie, but joining it. After leaving Baker's house, was soon in sight of the prairie, which I understand is about forty miles in circumference, longer than it is wide, very level, only a few clumps of trees to be seen, all covered with good grass. The inhabitants are settled all around the out edge of it, by the woods, their houses facing inwards, and cultivate the prairie land. Though the soil, when turned up by the plough has a good appearance, what I could discover by the old corn and cotton stalks, they made but indifferent crops; the timber land that I saw cleared and planted produced the best; the prairie is better for grass than for planting. The inhabitants have considerable stocks of cattle, which appears to be their principal dependence, and I was informed their beef is of a superior quality: they have likewise good pork; hogs live very well; the timbered country all round the prairie is principally oak, that produces good mast for hogs. Corn is generally scarce; they raise no wheat, for they have no mills. I was informed that the lower end of the prairie, that I did not see, was much the richest land, and the inhabitants lived better, and were more wealthy; they are a mixture of French, Irish and Americans, generally poor and ignorant. Avoyall, at high water, is an island, elevated thirty or forty feet above high water mark; the quantity of timbered land exceeds that of the prairie, which is likewise pretty level, but scarcely a second quality of soil. La Glass� landing, as it is called, I found about a mile and a half from the upper end of the prairie; the high lands bluff to the river. After leaving this place found the banks rise higher and higher on each side, and fit for settlements; on the right side pine woods sometimes in sight. I left the boat again about eight miles from Le Glass� landing, right side; walked two and a half miles across a point to a Mr. Hoomes�; round the point is called sixteen miles. I found the lands through which I passed, high, moderately hilly; the soil a good second quality clay; timber, large oak, hickory, some short leaved pine; and several small streams of clear running water. This description of lands extended back five or six miles, and bounded by open pine woods, which continue for thirty miles to Ocatahola. I found Mr. Hoomes� house on a high bluff very near the river; his plantation the same description of land through which I had passed, producing good corn, cotton and tobacco, and he told me had tried it in wheat, which succeeded well, but having no mills to manufacture it, had only made the experiment. Mr. Hoomes told me all the lands round his, for many miles, were vacant. On the south side there is a large body of rich, low grounds, extending to the borders of Appalousa, watered and drained by Bayau Robert and Bayau Beauf, two handsome streams of clear water that rise in the high lands between Red river and Sabine, and after meandering through this immense mass of low grounds of thirty or forty miles square, fall into the Chaffeli, to the southward of Avoyall. I believe in point of soil, growth of timber, goodness of water, and conveniency to navigation, there is not a more valuable body of land in this part of Louisiana. From Mr. Hoomes� to the mouth of Rapide Bayau is, by the river thirty-five miles. A few scattering settlements on the right side, but none on the left; the right is preferred to settle on, on account of their stocks being convenient to the high lands; but the settlers on the right side own the lands on the left side too; the lands on the Bayau Rapide are the same quality as those on Bayaus Robert and Beauf, and in fact, are a continuation of the same body of lands. Bayau Rapide is somewhat in the form of a half moon; the two points, or horns, meeting the river about twenty miles from each other; the length of the bayau is about thirty miles; on the back of it there is a large bayau falls in, on which there is a saw mill, very advantageously situated, in respect to a never failing supply of water; plenty of timber; and the plank can be taken from the mill tail by water. This bayau is excellent water; rises in the pine woods, and discharges itself each way into the river, by both ends of Bayau Rapide. Boats cannot pass through the bayau, from the river to the river again, on account of rafts of timber choaking the upper end of it, but can enter the lower end and ascend it more than half through it. On the lower end of the bayau, on each side, is the principal Rapide settlement, as it is called; no country whatever can exhibit handsomer plantations, or better lands. The Rapide is a fall, or shoal, occasioned by a soft rock in the bed of the river, that extends from side to side, over which for about five months in the year, viz from July to December, there is not sufficient water for boats to pass without lightening, but at all other seasons it is the same as any other part of the river. This rock, or hard clay, for it resembles the latter almost as much as the former, is so soft it may be cut away with a pen knife, or any sharp instrument, and scarcely turn the edge, and extends up and down the river but a few yards; and I have heard several intelligent persons give it as their opinion, that the extraordinary expense and trouble the inhabitants were at in one year, in getting loaded boats over this shoal, would be more than sufficient to cut a passage through it; but it happens at a season of the year when the able planters are occupied at home, and would make no use of the river were there no obstructions in it; but at any rate, the navigation of the river is clear a longer proportion of the year than the rivers in the northern countries are clear of ice. But this obstruction is certainly removable, at a very trifling expense, in comparison to the importance of having it done; and nothing but the nature of the government we have lately emerged from, can be assigned as a reason for its not having been effected long ago.
After passing the Rapides there are very few settlements to be seen, on the main river, for about twenty miles, though both sides appeared to me to be capable of making as valuable settlements as any on the river; we arrive then at the Indian villages, on both sides, situated exceedingly pleasant, and on the best lands; after passing which you arrive at a large beautiful plantation of Mr. Gillard; the house is on a point of high pine woods bluff, close to the river, sixty or seventy feet above the common surface of the country, overlooking on the east, or opposite side, very extensive fields of low grounds, in high cultivation, and a long reach of the river, up and down; and there is an excellent spring of water issues from the bluff, on which the house is situated, from an aperture in the rock that seems to have been cloven on purpose for it to flow, and a small distance back of the house, there is a lake of clear water, abounding with fish in summer and fowl in winter. I have seen in all my life, very few more beautiful or advantageously situated places. Six miles above Gillard's, you arrive at the small village of Boluxa Indians, where the river is divided into two channels, forming an island of about 50 miles in length, and three or four in breadth. The right hand division is called the Rigula de Bondieu, on which are no settlements; but I am informed, will admit of being well settled; the left hand division is the boat channel, at present, to Natchitoches: the other is likewise boatable. Ascending the left hand branch for about 24 miles, we pass a thick settlement and a number of wealthy inhabitants. This is called the river Cane settlement; called so, I believe, from the banks some years ago, being a remarkable thick cane-brake. After passing this settlement of about forty families, the river divides again, forming another island of about thirty miles in length, and from two to four in breadth, called the isle Brevel, after a reputable old man now living in it, who first settled it. This island is subdivided by a bayau that communicates from one river to the other, called also Bayau Brevel. The middle division of the river, is called Little river, and it is thickly settled, and is the boat channel, the westward division of the river is called False river; is navigable, but not settled; the banks are too low; it passes through a lake called Lac Occassa. When you arrive at Natchitoches, you find it a small, irregular, and meanly built village, half a dozen houses excepted, on the west side of that division of the river it is on, the high pine and oak woods approach within two or three hundred yards of the river. In the village are about forty families, twelve or fifteen are merchants or traders, nearly all French. The fort built by our troops since their arrival, called fort Claiborne, is situated on a small hill, one street from the river, and about thirty feet higher than the river banks. All the hill is occupied by the fort and barracks, and does not exceed two acres of ground. The southern and eastern prospects from it are very beautiful. One has an extensive view of the fields and habitations down the river, and the other a similar view over the river, and of the whole village. This town, thirty or forty years ago, was much larger than at present, and situated on a hill about half a mile from its present site. Then most of the families of the district lived in the town, but finding it inconvenient on account of the stocks and farms, they filed off, one after another, and settled up and down the river. The merchants and trading people found being on the bank of the river more convenient for loading and unloading their boats, left the hill on that account; and others, find ing the river, ground much superior for gardens, to which they are in the habit of paying great attention, followed the merchants; after them the priests and commandant; then the church and jail (or calleboose), and now nothing of the old town is left, but the form of their gardens and some ornamental trees. It is now a very extensive common of several hundred acres, entirely tufted with clover, and covered with sheep and cattle. The hill is a stiff clay, and used to make miry streets; the river soil, though much richer, is of a loose, sandy, texture; the streets are neither miry nor very dusty. Our wells do not afford us good water, and the river water, in summer, is too brackish to drink, and never clear. Our springs are about half a mile back from the river, but the inhabitants, many of them, have large cisterns, and use, principally rain water, which is preferred to the spring water. The planters along on the river generally use rain water; though when the river is high, and the water taken up and settled in large earthen jars, (which the Indian women make of good quality and at a moderate price) it can be drank tolerably well, but it makes bad tea.
Near Natchitoches there are too large lakes, one within a mile, the other six miles to the nearest parts. One of them is fifty or sixty miles in circumference, the other upwards of thirty: these lakes rise and fall with the river. When the river is rising the bayaus that connect with the lakes, run into the lakes like a mili-tail, till the lakes are filled; and when the river is falling, it is the same the contrary way, just like the tide but only annual. On these creeks good mills might be erected, but the present inhabitants know nothing of mills by water, yet have excellent cotton gins worked by horses. I do not know a single mechanic in the district, who is a native of it, one taylor excepted. Every thing of the kind is done by strangers, mostly Americans. Though Natchitoches has been settled almost one hundred years, it is not more than twelve or fifteen years, since they ever had a plough, or a flat to cross the river with; both which were introduced by an Irish Pennsylvanian, under a similar opposition to the Copernican system. 'Tis almost incredible the quantity of fish and fowl these lakes supply. It is not uncommon in winter for a single man to kill from two to four hundred fowl in one evening; they fly between sundown and dark; the air is filled with them; they load and fire as fast as can without taking any particular aim, continuing at the same stand till they think they have killed enough, and then pick up what they have killed; they consist of several kinds of duck, geese, brant and swan. In summer the quantities of fish are nearly in proportion. One Indian with a bow and arrow, sometimes will kill them faster than another with two horses can bring them in; they weigh, some of them, thirty or forty pounds. The lakes likewise afford plenty of shells for lime, and at low water, the greater of them is a most luxuriant meadow, where the inhabitants fatten their horses. All round these lakes above high water mark, there is a border of rich land, generally wide enough for a field. On the bank of one of them, there is plenty of stone coal, and several quarries of tolerable good building stone; at high water boats can go out of the river into them. Similar lakes are found all along Red river for five or six hundred miles, which, besides the uses already mentioned, nature seems to have provided as reservoirs for the immense quantity of water beyond what the banks of the river will contain, otherwise no part of them could be inhabited: the low grounds from hill to hill would be inundated. About twelve miles north of Natchitoches, on the north east side of the river, there is a large lake called Lac Woiz; the bayau of it communicates to the Rigula de Bondieu, opposite Natchitoch, which is boatable the greater part of the year. Near this lake are the salt works, from which all the salt that is used in the district is made, and which is made with so much ease, that two old men, both of them cripples, with ten or twelve old pots and kettles, have for several years past made an abundant supply of salt for the whole district; they inform me they make six bushels per day. I have not been at the place, but have a bottle of the water brought to me which I found nearly saturated. The salt is good. I never had better bacon than I make with it I am informed there are twelve saline springs now open, and by digging for them, for ought any one knows, twelve hundred might be opened. A few months ago, captain Burnet of the Mississippi territory, coming to this place by the Washita, came by the salt works, and purchased the right of one of the old men he found there, and has lately sent up a boat with some large kettles and some negroes, under the direction of his son, and expects when they get all in order, to be able to make thirty or forty bushels a day. Captain Burnet is of opinion that he shall be able to supply the Mississippi territory, and the settlements on Mississippi, from Point Coupee, upwards, lower than they can get it in New Orleans and bring it up. Cathartic salts and magnesia, might likewise be made in large quantities if they understood it. The country all round the Sabine and Black lake is vacant, and from thence to Washita, a distance of about one hundred and twenty miles, which I am informed affords considerable quantities of well timbered good uplands, and well watered. There is a small stream we cross on the Washita road, the English call it Little river, the French Dogdimona, affording a wide rich bottom: this stream falls into the Acatahola lake; from thence to Washita, it is called Acatahola river; its course is eastwardly and falls into Washita, near the mouth of Tensaw, where the road from Natchitoches to Natchez crosses it; from the confluence of these three rivers, downwards, it is called Black river, which falls into Red river, sixty miles below. There is a good salt spring near the Acatahola lake.
Ascending Red river above Natchitoches, in about three miles arrive at the upper mouth of the Rigula de Bondieu: there are settlements all along; plantations adjoining. From the upper mouth ef the Rigula de Bondieu, the the river is one channel through the settlement called Grand Ecore, of about six miles; it is called Grand Ecore. (or in English the Great Bluff) being such a one on the left hand side, near one hundred feet high. The face next the river almost perpendicular, of a soft white rock; the top a gravel loam, of considerable extent on which grow large oaks, hickory, black cherry and grape vines. At the bottom of one of these bluffs, for there are two near each other, is a large quantity of stone-coal, and near them several springs of the best water in this part of the country, and at lake of clear water within two hundred yards, bounded by a gravelly margin. I pretend to have no knowledge of military tactics, but think from the river in this place being all in one channel, the goodness of the water, a high, healthy country, and well timbered all round it, no height near it so high, its commanding the river, and a very public ferry just under it, and at a small expense, would be capable of great defence with a small force. The road from it to the westward better than from Nachitoch, and by land only about five miles above it, and near it plenty of good building stone. These advantages it possesses beyond any other place within my knowledge on the river, for a strong fort and safe place of deposit. Just about this bluff the river makes a large bend to the right, and a long reach nearly due east and west by it; the bluff overlooks on the opposite side, several handsome plantations. I have been induced, from the advantages this place appeared to me to possess, to purchase it, with four or five small settlements adjoining, including both bluffs, the ferry, springs and lake, the stone quarries, and coal; and a field of about five hundred acres of the best low grounds on the opposite side. After leaving Grand Ecore about a mile, on the left side comes in a large bayau, from the Spanish lake, as it is called, boatable the greater part of the year. This lake is said to be about fifty miles in circumference, and rises and falls with the river into which, from the river, the largest boats may ascend, and from it, up the mouths of several large bayaus that fall into it, for some distance, one in particular called bayau Dupong, up which boats may ascend within one and a half mile of old fort Adaize. Leaving this bayau about two miles, arrive at a fork or division of the river; the left hand branch bears westwardly for sixty or eighty miles ; then eastwardly, meeting the branch it left, after forming an island of about one hundred miles long, and in some places nearly thirty miles wide. Six or seven years ago, boats used to pass this way into the main river again; its communication with which being above the great raft or obstruction; but it is now choaked, and requires a portage of three miles; but at any season boats can go from Natchitoches, about eighty miles, to the place called the point, where the French had a factory, and a small station of soldiers to guard the Indian trade, and is now undoubtedly a very eligible situation for a similar establishment. The country bounded to the east and north by this branch or division of the river, is called the bayau Pierre settlement, which was begun, and some of the lands granted before Louisiana was ceded to Spain by France, and continued under the jurisdiction of the commandant of Natchitoches until about twenty years ago, when by an agreement between a Mr. Vogone, then commandant of this place, and a Mr. Elibarbe, commandant at Natchitoches, the settlement called bayau Pierre, was placed under the jurisdiction of the latter, and has so continued ever since. The settlement I believe, contains about forty families, and generally they have large stocks of cattle; they supply us with our cheese entirely, and of a tolerable quality, and we get from them some excellent bacon hams. The country is interspersed with prairies, resembling, as to richness, the river bottoms, and in size, from five to five thousand acres. The hills are a good gray soil, and produce very well, and afford beautiful situations. The creek called Bayau Pierre (stony creek) passes through the settlement, and affords a number of good mill seats, and its bed and banks lined with a good kind of building stone, but no mills are erected on it. Some of the inhabitants have tried the uplands in wheat, which succeeded well. They are high, gently rolling, and rich enough; produce good corn, cotton and tobacco. I was through the settlement in July fast, and found good water, either from a spring or well, at every house. The inhabitants are all French, one family excepted. A few miles to the westward, towards Sabine, there is a Saline, where the inhabitants go and make their salt. On the whole, for health, good water, good living, plenty of food for every kind of animal, general conveniency, and handsome surface, I have seen few parts of the world more inviting to settlers.
Returning back again to the fork of the main river we left, for the purpose of exploring the Bayau Pierre branch, we find irregular settlements, including Campti, where a few families are settled together on a hill near the river, northeast side. For about 20 miles, the river land is much the same every where, but the Campti, settlement is more broken with bayaus and lagoons than any place I am acquainted with on the river, and for want of about a dozen bridges is inconvenient to get to, or travel through. The upper end of this settlement is the last on the main branch of Red river, which, straight by land, does not exceed 25 miles above Natchitoches. At the upper house the great raft or jam of timber begins; this raft choaks the main channel for upwards or 100 miles, by the course of the river; not one entire jam from the beginning to the end of it, but only at the points, with places of several leagues that are clear. The river is very crooked, and the low grounds are wide and rich, and I am in formed, no part of Red river will afford better plantations than along its banks by this raft, which is represented as being so important as to render the country above it of little value for settlements; this opinion is founded entirely upon incorrect information. The first or lowest part of the raft is at a bend or point in the river, just below the upper plantation, at which, on the right side, a larg bayau, or division of the river, called Bayau Channo, comes in, which is free of any obstructions, and the greater part of the year boats of any size may ascend it, into lake Bistino, through which, to its communication with the lake, is only about three miles; the lake is about 60 miles long, and lays nearly parallel with the river, from the upper end of which it communicates again with the river, by a bayau called Daichet, about 40 miles above the upper end of the raft; from the lake to the river, through Bayau Daichet, is called 9 miles; there is always in this bayau sufficient water for any boat to pass; from thence upwards Red river is free of all obstructions to the mountains. By lake Bistino, and these two bayaus, an island is formed, about 70 miles long, and three or four wide, capable of affording settlements inferior to none on the river. From the above account you will perceive, that the only difficulty in opening a boat passage by this raft, through the lake, which is much shorter than by the course of the river, and avoid the current, and indeed, was the river unobstructed, would always be preferred, is this small jam of timber at the point, just below the bayau Channo, as it is called.
After the receipt of your letter, I had an opportunity of seeing some of the inhabitants who live near this place, who informed me, that that small raft was easily broken, and that they had lately been talking of doing it. I persuaded them to make the attempt, and they accordingly appointed the Friday following, and all the neighbors were to be invited to attend and assist. They met accordingly, and effected a passage next to one bank of the river, so that boats could pass, but did not entirely break it; they intend to take another spell at it, when the water falls a little, and speak confidently of succeeding.
The country about the head of lake Bistino, is highly spoken of, as well the high lands, as the river bottom. There are falling into the river and lake in the vicinity, some handsome streams of clear wholesome water from towards Washita, one in particular called bayau Badkah by the Indians, which is boatable at some seasons; this bayau passes through a long, narrow and rich prairie, on which, my informant says 500 families might be desirably settled; and from thence up to where the Caddos lately lived, the river banks are high, bottoms wide and rich as any other part of the river. From thence it is much the same to the mouth of the Little river of the left; this river is generally from fifty to an hundred yards wide; heads in the great prairies, south of Red river, and interlocks with the head branches of the Sabine and Trinity rivers; and in times of high water is boatable forty or fifty leagues, affording a large body of excellent, well timbered and rich land, the low grounds from three to six miles wide; but the quality of the water, though clear, is very inferior to that of the streams that fall into Red river on the north side. The general course of the Red river from this upwards is nearly from west to east, till we arrive at the Panis towns, when it turns northwestwardly. After leaving the mouth of the Little river of the left, both banks are covered with strong, thick cane for about twenty miles; the low grounds very wide, rich, and do not overflow; the river widening in proportion as the banks are less liable to overflow; you arrive at a handsome, rich prairie, twenty-five miles long on the right side, and four or five miles wide ; bounded by handsome oak and hickory woods, mixed with some short-leaved pine, interspersed with pleasant streams and fountains of water. The opposite, or left side is a continuation of thick cane; the river or low lands ten or twelve miles wide. After leaving the prairie, the cane continues for about forty miles; you then arrive at another prairie, called Little prairie, left side, about five miles in length, and from two to three in breadth; opposite side continues cane as before; low lands wide; well timbered, very rich, and overflow but little; the river still widening. Back of the low grounds, is a well timbered, rich upland country; gently rolling and well watered ; from the Little prairie, both banks cane for ten or twelve miles, when the oak and pine woods come bluff to the river for about five miles; left hand side, cane as before; then the same on both sides, for from ten to twenty miles wide, for about fifteen miles, when the Cedar begins on both sides, and is the principal growth on the wide, rich river bottom for forty miles; in all the world there is scarcely to be found a more beautiful growth of cedar timber; they, like the cedars of Libanus, are large, lofty and straight.
You now arrive at the mouth of the Little river of the right; this river is about one hundred and fifty yards wide; the water clear as chrystal; the bottom of the river stony, and is boatable at high water up to the great prairies, near two hundred miles by the course of the river; the low grounds generally from ten to fifteen miles wide, abounding with the most luxuriant growth of rich timber, but sub ject to partial inundation at particular rainy seasons. After leaving this river, both banks of Red river are cane as before, for about twenty miles, when you come to the round prairie, right side, about five miles in circumference. At this place Red river is fordable at low water; a hard stony bottom, and is the first place from its mouth where it can be forded. This round prairie is high and pleasant, surrounded by handsome oak and hickory uplands; left side cane as before, and then the same both sides for twenty miles, to the long prairie, left side, forty miles long; opposite side cane as before; near the middle of this prairie, there is a lake of about five miles in circumference, in an oval form, neither tree nor shrub near it, nor stream of water running either in or out of it; it is very deep, and the water so limpid that a fish may be seen fifteen feet from the surface. By the side of this lake the Caddoquies have lived from time immemorial. About one mile from the lake is the hill on which, they say the great spirit placed one Caddo family, who were saved when by a general deluge all the world were drowned; from which family all the Indians have originated. For this little natural eminence all the Indian tribes, as well as the Caddoquies, for a great distance, pay a devout and sacred homage. Here the French, for many years before Louisiana was ceded to Spain, had erected a small fort; kept some soldiers to guard a factory they had here established for the Indian trade, and several French families were settled in the vicinity, built a flour mill, and cultivated wheat successfully for several years; and it is only a few years ago that the millions and mill stones were brought down: it is about twenty-five years since those French families moved down, and fourteen years since the Caddoquies left it. Here is another fording place when the river is low. On the opposite side a point of high oak, hickory, and pine land comes bluff to the river for about a mile; after which, thick cane to the upper end of the prairie; then the same on both sides for about twelve miles; then prairie on the left side for twenty miles, opposite side cane; then the same for thirty miles, then an oak high bluff three miles, cane again for about the same distance, on both sides; then for about one league, left side, is a beautiful grove of pacans, intermixed with no other growth; after which, cane both sides for forty miles; then prairie left side for twenty miles, and from one to two miles only in depth; about the middle of which comes in a bayau of clear running water, about fifty feet wide; then cane again both sides the river for about forty miles; then, on the right side, a point of high pine woods bluff to the river for about half a mile, cane again fifteen or sixteen miles; then a bluff of large white rocks for about half a mile, near an hundred feet high, cane again about forty-five miles, to a prairie on the right side, of about thirty miles long, and twelve or fifteen miles wide; there is a thin skirt of wood along the bank of the river, that when the leaves are on the trees, the prairie is from the river, scarcely to be seen. From the upper end of this prairie it is thick cane again for about six miles, when we arrive at the mouth of Bayau Galle, which is on the right side, about thirty yards wide, a beautiful, clear, running stream of wholesome well tasted water; after passing which it is thick cane again for twenty-five miles, when we arrive at a river that falls in on the right side, which is called by the Indians Kiomitchie and by the French La Riviere la Mine, or Mine river, which is about one hundred and fifty yards wide, the water clear and good, and is boatable about sixty miles to the silver mine, which is on the bank of the river, and the ore appears in large quantities, but the richness of it is not known. The Indians inform of their discovering another, about a year ago, on a creek that empties into the Kiomitchie, about three miles from its mouth, the ore of which they say resembles the other. The bottom land of this river is not wide, but rich; the adjoining high lands are rich, well timbered, well watered and situated. About the mine the current of the river is too strong for boats to ascend it, the country being hilly. After passing the Kiomitchie, both banks of the river are covered with thick cane for twenty-five miles, then left side, a high pine bluff appears again to the river for about half a mile, after which nothing but cane again on each side for about forty miles, which brings you to the mouth of a handsome bayau, left side, called by the Indians
Mr. Grappe, to whom I am indebted for the foregoing accurate description of Red river, informed me, that his personal knowlege of it did not extend but little above the Panis towns; but Mr. Brevel of the isle Brevel, who was born at the Caddo old towns, where he was, had been farther up it, and that whatever account he gave me might be relied on. -
I therefore sought an opportunity, a few hours after, to obtain from Mr. Brevel the following narrative, which, I wrote down from his own mouth, as he related it:
“About forty years ago, I sat off on foot, from the Panis nation (who then lived about fifty leagues above where they now live) in company with a party of young Indian men, with whom I had been partly raised, on a hunting voyage, and to procure horses. We kept up on the south side of Red river, as near it as we could conveniently cross the small streams that fall in, sometimes at some distance, and at others very near it, and in sight of it. We found the country all prairie, except small copses of wood, cedar, cotton wood, or musketo, amongst which a stick six inches in diameter could not be found; the surface becoming more and more light, sandy and hilly, with hedges of clifts of a greyish sandy rock, but every where covered with herbage. We found many small streams falling into the river, but none of any considerable size, or that discharged much water in dry seasons, but many deep gullies formed by the rain water. After travelling for several days over a country of this description, the country became more broken, the hills rising into mountains, amongst which we saw a great deal of rock salt, and an ore the Indians said was my (meaning the white people�s) treasure, which I afterwards learned was silver. And that amongst these mountains of mines, we often heard a noise like the explosion of cannon, or distant thunder, which the Indians said was the spirit of the white people working in their treasure, which, I afterwards was informed was the blowing of the mines, as it is called, which is common in all parts of Spanish America where mines exist. The main branch of the river becoming smaller, till it divided into almost innumerable streams that issued out of the vallies amongst these mountains; the soil very light and sandy, of a reddish grey colour. We travelled on from the top of one mountain to the top of another, in hopes the one we were ascending was always the last, till the small streams we met with ran the contrary way, towards the setting sun, and the lands declining that way. We continued on till the streams enlarged into a river of considerable size, and the country became level, well timbered, the soil a rich black loam ; the waters were all clear and well tasted. Here we found a great many different tribes of the Hietan, Appaches and Concee Indians; we likewise fell in with them frequently from the time we had been a few days out from the Panis towns, and were always treated kindly by them. I believe the distance from the Panis old towns to where we saw the last of Red river water, is at least one hundred leagues; and in crossing over the ridge, we saw no animals that were not common in all the country of Louisiana, except the spotted tyger, and a few white bears. After spending some days on the western waters, we sat off for the settlements of St. a Fe; steering nearly a south east course, and in a few days were out of the timbered country into prairies; the country became broken and hilly; the waters all running westwardly; the country clothed with a luxuriant herbage, and frequently passing mines of silver ore. We arrived at length at a small, meanly built town in the St. a Fe settlement, containing about one hundred houses, round which were some small, cultivated fields, fenced round with small cedar and musketo brush, wattled in stakes. This little town was on a small stream of water that ran westwardly, and in a dry season scarcely run at all, and that the inhabitants were obliged to water their cattle from wells. And I understood that the bayau upon which this town is situated, was no part of Rio Grandi, but fell into the Western Ocean; but of that I might have been mistaken. I understood that similar small towns, or missions, were within certain distances of each other for a great extent southwardly, towards Mexico; and that the inhabitants were mostly christianised Indians and Matiffs. That the mines in that settlement afforded very rich ore, which was taken away in large quantities, packed on mules, and had the same appearance of what we met with about the head branches of Red river. After furnishing ourselves with horses at this place, we sat off again for the Panis towns, from whence we started, steering at first southwardly, in order to avoid a high, mountainous country that is difficult to cross, that lies between St. a Fe and Red river. After travelling some distance south, we turned our course northeastwardly, and arrived at the Panis towns in eighteen days from the day we left St. a Fe settlements; and three months and twenty days from the time we started.” -
He is of the opinion that from the Panis towns to St. a Fe, in a right line, is nearly three hundred miles, and all the country prairie, a few scattering cedar knobs excepted. After he had finished his narrative, I asked him how far Red river was boatable. He said not much above the Panis old towns; not that he knew of any particular falls or obstructions, but that the head branches of the river came from steep mountains, on which the rain often poured down in torrents, and runs to the river with such velocity, sweeping along with it large quantities of loose earth, of which these hills and mountains are composed: that it rolls like a swell in the sea, and would either sink or carry along with it any boat that it might meet in the river. But, he observed at the same time, that his opinion was founded on no experiment that he had ever known made. I asked him if the Indians had no perogues high up in the river. He told me that the Indians there knew nothing of the use of them, for instead of there being for hundreds of miles a tree large enough for a canoe, one could scarcely be found large enough to make a fowl trough. I asked him what animals were found in the Great Prairies. He told me, from Blue river, upwards, on both sides of Red river, there were innumerable quantities of wild horses, buffaloes, bears, wolves, elk, deer, foxes, sangliers or wild hogs, antelope, white hares, rabbits,&c. and on the mountains the spotted tyger, panther, and wild cat. He further told me that about twenty three years ago, he was employed by the governor of St. Antoine, to go from that place into some of the Indian nations that lived towards St. a Fe, who were at war with the Spaniards, to try to make a peace with them, and bring in some of the chiefs to St. Antoine. He sat off from that place with a party of soldiers, and was to have gone to St. a Fe; they passed on a northwestwardly course for about two hundred miles, but after getting into the Great Prairie, being a dry season, they were forced to turn back for want of water for themselves and horses, and that he does not know how near he went to St. a Fe, but believes he might have been half way.
The accounts given by Mr. Brevel, Mr. Grappe, and all other hunters with whom I have conversed, of the immense droves of animals that at the beginning of winter, descend from the mountains southwardly, into the timbered country, is almost incredible. They say the buffaloe and bear particularly, are in droves of many thousands together, that blacken the whole surface of the earth, and continue passing, without intermission, for weeks together, so that the whole surface of the country is for many miles in breadth, trodden like a large road. I am, sir, &c. &c. (Signed) JOHN SIBLEY.
Natchitoches, 10th April, 1805. *�- DISTANCES UP RED RIVER, BY THE COURSE OF THE RIVER, - Miles. From the mouth of Red river to Black river w�- 31 to Baker's landing, lower end Avoyal, --5k. La Glee's ditto, upper end Avoyal, - 15 Rice's, - - - �e - 6 Hoome�s, --,- .- - 18 Nicholas Grubb�s, - - - 21 mouth of bayau Rapide, - - �15 157 Indian villages, - - - - 22 Mount Pleasant, Gillard's place, - -7 mouth of Rigula de Bondieu, - - 6 Mounete's plantation, -- - - 10 mouth of Little river, - - - 24 bayau Brevel, - * - � 20 Natchitoches, -- an � � -20 109 $70L. IV. K / f Brought over, - Grand Ecore, - - - - 10 Compti, - - - - 2O bayau Channo, - - - 15 lake Bistino, through bayau Channo, - - 3 through lake Bistino to the upper end of Channo, 60 through bayau Daichet to the river again, - 9 late Caddo villages, where they lived 5 years ago, 80 Little river of the left, - - - 80 long prairie, right side, - - 25 upper end of ditto, - - - 25 little prairie, left side, - - 40 upper end ditto, - - - 5 pine bluff, right side, - - - 12 upper end, ditto, - - , - , - 5 bedars, - - - - 15 upper end ditto, and mouth of Little river of the . right, - - - - 40 round prairie, right side, (first fording place) 2O lower end of long prairie, left side, - - 25 upper end ditto, - - 40 next prairie same side, - - 12 upper end of the same, * - - 20 three mile oak and pine bluff, - - 30 Pacan grove, - - - 9 upper end of the same, - - - - 6 prairie next above the pacans, - - 40 upper end of the same, - - - 2 pine bluff right side, - - 45 white oak bluff, - - - 15 next prairie right side, - - 45 upper end ditto, �- - - 3O bayau Galle, right side, - - 6 mouth of Kiomitchie, or mine river, - - 25 pine bluff left side, - - 25 bayau Kick, or Bois d�arc creek, - - 40 the Vazzures, or Boggy river, right side, 8 Blue river, right side, - - 50 Faux Oacheto or Missouri branch, - - 25 Tanis or Towiache towns, - - 70 Tanis or ditto, old towns, - - � 150 'head branch of Red river, or dividing ridge, 300 197 175 231 *668 LOUISIANA, 67 Brought over, * - - 668 To which may be added for so much the distance being shortened by going through lake Bistino, than the course of the river, - - - - - 60 1,831 Computed length of Red river from where it falls into the Missisippi, to which add the distance from the mouth of Red river to the ocean, by either the Missis sippi, or the Cheffeli, which was once probably the mouth of Red river, - - - - 32O s Total length of Red river, mi.es 2,151
AN ACCOUNT OF LOUISIANA AT THE TIME OF ITS TRANSFER TO THE UNITED STATES.”
THE precise boundaries of Louisiana, on the north, and west are very extensive, but are at present somewhat doubtful. From the source of the Missisippi, it is bounded eastward by the middle of the channel of that river to the thirty-first degree of latitude: thence, according to its limits, when formerly possessed by France, it stretches eastward as far, at least, as the river Perdigo, which runs into the bay of Mexico, east of the river Mobille.
Louisiana,* including the Mobille settlements, was discovered and peopled by the French. Their monarch made several grants of its trade, one in particular, to Mr. Crosat in 1712, and some years after wards, with his acquiescence, to the company projected by the notorious Law. This company was dissolved in the year 1731.
By a secret convention made on the 3d of November 1762, the French government ceded so much of the province as lies west of the Missisippi, with the island of New-Orleans, to Spain, and, by the treaty of peace which followed in 1763, the whole territory of France and Spain east of the middle of the Missisippi to the Iberville, thence through the middle of that river, and the lakes Maurepas and Ponchartrain to the sea, was ceded to Great Britain. Spain having conquered the Floridas from Great Britain during the American war, they were confirmed to her by the treaty of 1783.
By the treaty of St. Ildefonso, of the 1st of October, 1800, the king of Spain engages to re-cede to the French Republic; six months after
* This account carefully abstracted from a work, which was itself an abstract of the documents, in the offices of the departments of state and of the treasury, published by the government in 1803. The substance of that work is here de livered with all possible conciseness. - Ed. f
STOPPED HERE
So named after Louis the fourteenth, by the first discoverors. 68 AMERICAN REGISTER.
the full execution of the articles therein contained, relative to the Duke of Parma, “the colony or province of Louisiana, with the same extent that it actually has in the hands of Spain. that it had when France possessed it, and such as it ought to be after the treaties sub sequently entered into between Spain and other states.” This treaty was confirmed and enforced by that of Madrid, of the 21st of March, 1801. From France it passed to the United States by the treaty of the 30th of April, 1803, which referred to the above clause, as de scriptive of the limits.
Divisions of the firovince.
The province is held by Spain, including a part of West Florida, has the following principal divisions: Mobille, from Balize” to the city; New-Orleans and the country on both sides of Lake Ponchar train; First and Second German coasts; Catahanose; Forchest Venezuela; Iberville; Galvez-Town; Baton-Rouge;f Pointe Coupee; Atacapas; Opelousas; Ouachita; Avoyelles; Rapide; Nachitoches; Arkansas; and the Illinois.
In the Illinois there are subordinate commandants, at New-Madrid, St. Genevieve, New-Bourbon, St. Charles and St. Andrews.
Baton-Rouge; having been made a government, subsequently to the treaty with Spain, the posts of Manchac and Thompson's Creek, or Feliciana, were added to it. -
Chapitoulas has sometimes been regarded as a separate command ery but is now included within the jurisdiction of the city. The lower, part of the river, has likewise had occasionally a separate command ant. -
Many of the present settlements severed from each other by im mense and trackless deserts, they have no singular communication with each other by land, now and then the wilderness is traversed by hunters, who swim rivers, expose themselves to the inclemency of the weather, and carry their provisions on their backs during their journey. In the regions west of the Missisippi, the communication is kept up only by water, between the capital and the distant settle ments; three months being in some cases required to convey intel ligence from one to the other by the Missisippi. The usual distance accomplished by a boat in ascending, is fifteen miles a day.
The rapidity of the current, especilly in spring, when the waters of all the rivers are swelled, facilitates the descent, so that the same voyage which requires three or four months to perform from the capital, may be made to it in twelve or sixteen days. The principal settlements in Louisiana, are on the Missisippi. The banks of that river begin to be cultivated about sixty miles from the sea. At first the plantations are thin, and owned by the poorest people. Ascend
* The sea mark.
#A fork or branching point. .
#A red staff. LOUISIANA2. 69
ing, you see them improve on each side, till you reach the city, which is situated on the east bank, on a bend of the river, an hun dred and five miles from the sea.
The best and most tracts are above the city; they comprehend what is there known by the names of Paroisse de Chafitoulas, Pre mier and Second Cotes des Allemands, and extend forty-eight miles.
Above this begins the parish of Catahanose, or first Acadian set tlement, extending twenty-four miles on the river. Adjoining it, and still ascending is the second Acadian settiement or parish of the Fourche, which extends about eighteen miles. The parish of Iber ville then commences, and is bounded on the east by the river of the same name, which though dry a great part of the year, yet, when the Missisippi is raised, communicates with the lakes Maurepas and Ponchartrain, and through them with the sea, thus forming what is called the island of New Orleans. Except on the point just below the Iberville, the districts are settled the whole way along the river, and present an uninterrupted series of plantations adjoining each other. Their fronts to the Missisippi, are all cleared and extend on that river from a thousand feet to a mile in breadth, with a depth of eight thousand feet; so that a plantation of a thousand feet in front contains two hundred acres. A few sugar plantations are formed in the parish of Catahanose, but the remainder is devoted to cotton and provisions, and the whole have an excellent soil incapable of being exhausted. The plantations are but one deep on the island of New Orleans, and on the opposite side of the river as far as the mouth of the Iberville, which is an hundred and five miles above New Orleans.
About seventy-five miles above New Orleans on the west side of the Missisippi, the creek or Bayou of the Fourche, called in old maps La Riviere des Chitamaches, flows from the Missisippi, and enters the sea west of the Balise. The entrance of the Missisippi is navi gable only at high water, but will then admit craft of sixty and se venty tons burthen. On both banks of this creek are settlements, one plantation deep, for near forty-five miles, which are divided into two parishes. The settlers are numerous, though poor, and the culture is universally cotton. On all the channels detached from the main stream of the Missisippi, the soil is the same as on the banks of the river, and the border is the highest part of it, from whence it de scends gradually to the swamp. No where in the low lands is there room for more than one plantation, before you come to the low wet grounds incapable of cultivation. The Fourche affords one of the communications to the two populous and rich settlements of Ataca pas and Opelousas formed near the small rivers Teche and Ver millon, which flow into the bay of Mexico. But the principal and swiftest communication isby the Bayou or channel of Plaquemines, whose entrance into the Missisippi is twenty-one miles higher up on the same side, and ninety-six above New Orleans. The settlements abound in cattle and horses, have much good land in their vicinity, and may be made of great importance. A part of their produce is 70 AMERICAN REGISTER. - sent by sea to New Orleans, but the greater part is carried in bat teaux by the creeks above mentioned. #
Immediately above the Iberville, and on both sides of the Mis sisippi lies the parish of Manchac, which extends twelve miles on the river, and is well cultivated. Above it commences the settlement of Baton Rouge, extending about twenty-seven miles. It is remarkable as being the first place, where the high land is contiguous to the river, and here it forms a bluff from thirty to forty feet above the greatest rise of the river. Here the settlements extend a consi derable way back on the east side ; and this parish has that of Thompson�s creek and Bayou Sara subordinate to it. The mouth of the first of these creeks is near an hundred and fifty miles from New Orleans, and that of the latter six or eight miles higher up. They run from north-east to south-west, and their head waters are north of the 31st degree of latitude. Their banks have the best soil, and the greatest number of good cotton plantations of any part o I.ouisiana, and are allowed to be the garden of it.".
Above Baton Rouge, an hundred and fifty miles from New Or Jeans, and on the west side of the Missisippi is Pointe Coupee, a po pulous and rich settlement, extending twenty-four miles along the river Its produce is cotton. Behind it, on an old bed of the river, now a lake, whose outlets are closed up, is the settlement of Fausse riviere, which is well cultivated. -
The tract now described extending to the sea, and including the last mentioned settlement, contains three-fourths of the population, and seven-eighths of the riches of Louisiana. -
From the settlement of Pointe Coupee on the Missisippi, to cape Girardeau above the mouth of the Ohio, the land on the west side is overflowed in the spring, as far back as thirty miles from the river. with a depth between two and twelve feet, except a small spot near New Madrid, so that in the whole extent it is impossible to form a considerable settlement contiguous to the river on that side. The eastern bank has in this respect an advantage over the western, as there are on it many situations which effectually command the live ��.
On the west side of the Missisippi, two hundred and ten miles from New Orleans, is the mouth of the Red river, on whose banks are the settlements of Rapide, Avoyelles and Natchitoches, all of then thriving and populous. . The latter is situate two hundred and twenty five miles up the Red river. On the north side of the Red river a few miles from its junction with the Missisippi is the Black liver, on one of whose branches, a considerable way up, is the infant set tlement of Ouachi.a, which from the richness of the soil will become a place of importance. Cotton is the chief produce, but they have likewise a considerable Indian trade. The river Rouge, or Red river, is used for intercourse with the frontiers of New Mexico.
There is no other settlement on the Missisippi except the small one called Concord, opposite to the Natchez, till we reach the Ar - LOUISIANA. - Yl kansas river, whose mouth is seven hundred and fifty miles above New Orleans.
Here there are a few families, who are more addicted to the In dian trade, by which chiefly they live, than to husbandry. There is no settlement from this place to New Madrid, which is itself incon siderable. Ascending the river you come to cape Girardeau, St. Genevieve and St. Louis, where, though the inhabitants are numer ous, they raise little for exportation, and confine themselves to trad ing with the Indians and to working a few lead mines. This country is very fertile, especially on the banks of the Missouri, where there have been formed two settlements, called St. Charles and St. An drew, mostly by emigrants from Kentucky. The peltry procured in the Illinois is the best sent to the Atlantic market; and the quantity is very considerable. Lead is to be had with ease, and in such quan tities as to supply all Europe, if there were hands to work the nume rous mines to be found in many places two or three feet below the surface. The settlements about the Illinois were first made by the Canadians, and their inhabitants still resemble them in their aversion to labor, and love of a wandering life. They contain but few negroes in proportion to the whites; in general, in proportion to the distance of the capital, the proportion of blacks diminishes; they of course abound most on rich plantations in its neighbourhood.
Compared with the Indiana territory, Upper Louisiana has a more broken surface, though the soil is equally fertile. The west side of the river possesses some advantages, not generally belonging to those regions. It is elevated and healthy, and well watered, with many large and rapid streams, adapted to mills and other water works. From cape Girardeau, above the mouth of the Ohio, to the Missouri, the land on the east side of the Missisippi is low and flat, and occasionally exposed to inundations; on the opposite side, con tiguous to the river, it is generally much higher, and in many places very rocky on the shore. Some of the heights exhibit scenes truly picturesque. They rise to a height of at least three hundred feet, are faced with perpendicular lime and free-stone, carved into various phantastic figures by the hand of nature, and sometimes affording the appearance of a groupe of antique towers. From the tops of these eminences the land gradually slopes back from the river, without gravel or rock, and is covered with valuable timber. In fertility of soil, no part of the world exceeds the borders of the Missisippi, the land yielding all the necessaries of life in abundance, and almost spontaneously; very little labor being required in the cultivation of the earth. That part of Upper Louisiana, which borders on northern Mexico, is one immense frairie or natural meadow, it produces no thing but grass, it is crouded with buffaloes, deer, and other kinds of game; the landis represented as too rich for the growth of forest trees.
Upper Louisiana is said to contain in its bowels many silver and copper mines, and various specimens of both are exhibited. Several trials have been made to ascertain the fact; but want of skill in the enquirers has hitherto left the matter in doubt. 72 AMERICAN REGISTER. /
The salt works are also pretty numerous; some belonging to private persons, others to the public. They already yield an abun dant supply for the consumption of the neighbouring country; and if properly managed, might become an article of exportation. The usual price per bushel is one hundred and fifty cents in cash at the works. This price will be still lower as soon as the manufacture is undertaken by government, or by men who have large capitals to employ in the business. About a thousand miles up the Missouri, and not far from that river, a great mass of salt is said to exist by many respectable and enterprising traders, who have visited it, and who have exhibited several bushels of the salt to the curiosity of the people of St. Louis. A specimen has also been sent to Marietta.
This mass is said to form one body of rock salt, one hundred and eighty miles long, and forty-five in width”, without any trees, or even shrubs on it. Salt springs are very numerous beneath the surface, and they flow through its fissures and cavities.
Caves of salt-petre are found in Upper Louisiana, though at some distance from the settlements. Four men lately discovered one se veral hundred miles up the Missouri. They spent five or six weeks in the manufacture of this article, and returned to St. Louis with four hundred weight of it. It proved to be good and they sold it for a high price.
The geography of the Missisippi and Missouri, and their relative distance for a great part of their course, are but little known. The traders assert, that an hundred miles above their junction, a man may walk from one to the other in a day; and it is also asserted that se ven hundred miles higher, the portage may be crossed in four or five days. This portage is frequented by traders, who carry on a consi derable trade with some of the Missouri Indians. Their general route is through Green bay, which is an arm of lake Michigan; they then pass into a small lake connected with it, and with the Fox river; they then cross over a short portage into the Ouisconsing river, which enters the Missisippi some distance below the falls of St. An thony. It is also said that the traders communicate with the Mis sisippi above these falls, through lake Superior; but their trade in that quarter is inconsiderable. a
Behind New-Orleans is a canal about a mile and a half long, which communicates with a creek called the Bayou St. Jean, flowing into lake Ponchartrain. At the mouth of it, about seven miles from the city is a small fort called St. Jean, which commands the entrance at the lake. By this creek the communication is kept up through the lake and the Rigolets with Mobille, and the settlements in West Florida. Craft, drawing from six to eight feet water can reach the
* The testimony of occasional travellers and traders can afford no ground for believing in the existence of one solid continuous mass of these dimensions. It is impossible for such observers to have ascertained the fact as here stated. Their reports can only authorise us in believing in general, that rock-salt abounds in this quarter.
Ed. 1.OUISIANA. �3
mouth of the creek, but unless aided by extraordinary swells of the lake cannot pass the bar without being lightened.
On the east side of the Missisippi, about fifteen miles below New Orleans and at the head of the English bend, is a settlement known by the name of the Poblacion de St. Bernardo, or the Terre aux Boeufs, extending on both sides of a creek whose head is contiguous to the Missisippi, and which flowing eastward, after a course of fifty-four miles and dividing itself into two branches, falls into the sea and lake Borgne. This settlement consists of two parishes, almost all the in habitants of which are Spaniards from the Canaries, who merely raise fowls, corn, and garden vegetables for the market at New Or leans. The lands cannot be cultivated at any great distance from the ereek, by reason of a marsh behind them, but the place is susceptible of great improvement and of affording another communication to small craft of eight or ten feet draught, between the sea and the Missisippi.
Forty-eight miles below New Orleans, the settlements on both sides are of small account. Between these and the fort of Plaque mines, the country is overflowed in the spring, and in many places is incapable of cultivation at any time, being a morass almost impassa ble by man or beast. This small tongue of land extends considera bly into the sea, which is visible on both sides of the Missisippi from a mast head.
From Plaquemines to the sea is thirty of forty miles. The coun try is a swamp, chiefly covered with reeds, and having little or no timber and no settlement. The whole country below the English Turn is subject, though rarely, to overflows in hurricanes, either by the recoiling of the river or reflux from the sea on each side ; and more than once it has been covered with a depth of two to ten feet, according to the descent of the river, whereby many lives were lost, and cattle swept away. The last calamity of this kind happened in 1794. In the preceding year the engineer who superintended the erection of the fort of Plaquemines was drowned in his house near the fort, and the workmen and garrison escaped only by taking refuge on an elevated spot in the fort, on which there were notwithstanding two or three feet of water. These hurricanes have generally been felt in August. Their greatest fury lasts about twelve hours. They commence in the south east, veer about to all points of the compass, are felt most severely below and seldom extend more than a few leagues above New Orleans. In their whole course they are marked with desolation. Till that of 1793, none had been felt from the year 1780. -
About twenty-four miles below Plaquemines the Missisippi divides itself into three channels, which are called the East, South, and South West passes. Their course is from fifteen to eighteen miles to the sea. The space between is a marsh with little or no timber on it; but its situation may hereafter render it of some importance. The East pass, which is on the left hand going down is divided inte two branches about six miles below the pass ala Loutre, and the Ba w on..., IV. I. 74. AMERICAN REGISTER. lize, at which there is a small block house and some huts of pilots, who reside only here. The first of these secondary channels con tains, at present but eight feet water; the latter from fourteen to sixteen, according to the season. The South pass, directly in front of the Missisippi, has always been reckoned impassable, but it has ten feet water. The South West pass, on the right, is the longest and narrowest. A few years ago it had eighteen feet water, and was that by which the large ships always entered and issued from the Missisippi. It has now but eight feet water, and will probably re main so for some time. We must be understood of the depth of wa ter on the bar of each pass; for immediately within the bar, which is very narrow, there are from five to seven fathoms at all times.
The country east of lake Ponchartrain to Mobille and including the whole extent between the American line, the Missisippi above New Orleans, and the lakes, a tract of about thirty miles square, contigu ous to the line, and comprehending the waters of Thompson�s creek, Bayou Sara and the Amet, is a poor thin soil overgrown with pines, and contains no good land, unless on the banks of a few small rivers. It would, however, afford abundant supplies of pitch, tar, and pine lumber, and would feed large herds of cattle.
The inhabitants of Louisiana are chiefly descendants of emigrants immediately from France or from Canada. There are a considera ble number of English and Americans in New Orleans. The two German coasts are peopled by the descendants of settlers from Ger many, and a few French mixed with them. The three succeeding settlements up to Baton Rouge contain, mostly, Acadians, banished from Nova Scotia by the English, and their descendants. The dis trict of Baton Rouge, especially the east side, which includes all the country between the Iberville and the American line, is composed partly of Acadians, a very few French, and of a great many Ameri cans. On the west side are mostly Acadians. At Point Coupee and Faussee river are French and Acadians. Of the Atacapas and Opelousas, a considerable part is American. Natchitoches, on the Red river, contains few Americans, the remainder being French ; but the former are more numerous in the other settlements on that river: Avoyelles, Rapide, and Ouacheta. At Arkansas they are mostly French; and at New Madrid, Americans. At least two fifths of all the settlers on the Spanish side of the Missisippi, in the Illinois country, are likewise supposed to be Americans. Below New Orleans the people are altogether Frenchmen and their de scendants.
Louisiana, in its lower part, projecting considerably into the sea, has probably been formed by the matters brought down by the cur rent and deposited on the flat coast. There is therefore on the east side but a very narrow slip along the river, from the seato the Iberville. The land is not generally cultivable more than a mile backward from the river; the rest is low and swampy as far as the lakes and the sea, but abounds with cyprus. The timber is sawed by mills, worked by H.OUISIANA. z �5 artificial streams from the Missisippi in freshet time. They ge. nerally run five months in the year.
On both sides of the river the soil and situation are nearly the same. After leaving the edge there is an immense swamp, intersected by creeks and chequered by lakes, extending to the high lands of Ata. capas, and occupying a space of a hundred or more miles.
The city of New Orleans is regularly laid out, on the east side of the Missisippi, in lat. 30, N. and long. 90, W. It extends nearly a mile along the river, from the gate of France on the south, to that o�f Chapitoulas above, and about a third of a mile in breadth, from the to the rampart: but it has an extensive suburb on the upper SiCle.
The houses in front of the river and for a street or two backward, are mostly of brick, covered with slate or tile, and many of two stories. The remainder are of wood, roofed with shingles. The streets cross each other at right angles, and are thirty-two French feet wide. he intervals between the intersections of the streets, are, in length, about three hundred feet. here is in the middle of the city, on the river, a filace d�armes, facing which are the church and town house. There are from twelve to fourteen hundred houses in the city and suburbs. The population may be rated at ten thousand, including the seamen and garrison, It was fortified in 1793, but the works were originally defective, could net have been defended, and are now in ruins. The powder magazine is on the opposite bank of the river.
The following is public property.
Two very extensive brick warehouses, from one hundred and sixty to one hundred and eighty feet in length, and about thirty in breadth, one story high, and roofed with shingles.
A government house, stables, and garden, two hundred and twenty feet in length on the river, in the middle of the town, and extending three hundred and thirty-six feet back to the next street.
A military hospital.
A custom-house, ill-built, of wood, almost in ruins, in the upper part of the city, near the river.
An extensive barrack in the lower part of the city, fronting the ri ver, suitable for twelve or fourteen hundred men.
A large lot adjoining the public warehouses, with a few sheds in it. It serves as a park for artillery.
A prison; town house; market house ; assembly room; some ground rents; and the common about the town.
A public school for the rudiments of the Spanish language.
A cathedral church unfinished, and some houses belonging to it.
An hospital, with some houses belonging to it, and a revenue of fifteen hundred dollars a year given by an individual lately deceased.
The canal of Carondelet.
The population of Louisiana, including Pensacola and the Nachez, in 1785, amounted to thirty-two thousand and sixty two, of which four teen thousand two hundred and fifteen were free whites, one thou 76 AMERICAN REGISTER. sand three hundred and three free people of colour, and sixteen thou sand five hundred and forty-four slaves.
The latest documents make the whole number forty-two thousand three hundred and seventy-five, the free whites twenty-one thousand two hundred and forty-four, the free people of colour one thousand seven hundred and sixty-eight, and the slaves twelve thousand nine hundred and twenty.
These estimates are certainly below the truth. From an official account drawn up, in 1802, it appears that it contained two thousand two hundred and seventy whites, two hundred and ten free people of colour, one thousand two hundred and sixty-six slaves, in all three thousand seven hundred and forty-six souls.
A conjectural, but probable estimate made, raises the number of whites in the island of New Orleans, on the west side of the river, and some settlements on the east side, to fifty thousand one hundred and fifty, and the number of blacks to thirty-nine thousand eight hun dred and twenty.
Of the militia in Louisiana, the following is the return made by the baron of Carondelet. From Balize to the city; volunteers of the Missisippi; four companies of one hundred men each, complete 400 City. Battalion of the city, five companies, 5OO Artillery company, with supernumeraries, 12O Carabineers, or privileged companies of horse, two com panies of seventy each�incomplete, IOQ Mulattoes, two companies; negroes one do. 309 Mixed legion of the Missisippi, comprehending Galveztown, Baton Rouge, Pointe Coupee, Atacapas, and Opelousas, viz. 2 companies of grenadiers. 8 do. of fusileers. 4. do. of dragoons. 2. do. lately added from bayou Sara, t 16 companies of 100 men each, 1600 Avoyelles, one company of infantry, 100 Oucheta, one do. of cavalry, 1 OO Natchitoches, one do. of infantry and one of cavalry, 2OO Arkansas, one do. of infantry and cavalry, 106) Illinois, four do. of cavalry, Q These are always above 8 four do. of i�.; the compliment. ;O0 Provincial regiment of Germans and Acadians, from the first German coast to Iberville, Ten companies, viz. two of grenadiers, eight 1O of fusileers, :O6). Mobile and the country east of lake Ponchartrain. Two companies of horse and foot incomplete, 120 $445 LOUISIANA. 77
The person before alluded to, makes the militia amount to ten thousand three hundred and forty men within the same limits to which his estimate of the population applies. He distributes them in the several settlements, as follows:
1. The island of New Orleans, with the opposite margin and the adjacent settlements, 5000 2. The west margin from Manchac, including Pointe Cou pee, and extending to the Red river, 8O8) '3. Atacapas, along the coast between the Delta of the Mis sisippi and the river Sabine, - - - 350 4. Opelousas, - - - - - 750 5. Red river including bayou Boeuf, Avoyelles, Rapide, and Natchitoches, - - - - - - - - 10690 6. Ouacheta, - - - - - - - - 3OO 7. Concord, - - - - - - - - 40 8. Arkansas, - - - - - - - - 15O 9. New Madrid and its vicinity, - - - - - 350 10. Illinois and Missouri, - * - - - * 1000 11. The settlements on the east side of the Missisippi, from the American line to the Iberville, and some other settle Iments, - - - - - - � - - 600 10,346
None of these statements include the country beyond the river Sa bine, nor even all those which lie eastward of it.
St. Louis has a lieutenant colonel and a few troops. Baton Rouge is an ill constructed fort, and has about fifty men. We may add to these the small fort of St. Jean, and the block house at the Balize. The fortifications of New Orleans consist of five ill constructed re doubts, with a covered way, palisade and ditch. The whole is going fast to decay, and would be of little service if attacked. The powder magazine is on the opposite side of the river, and no sufficient provi sion is made for its removal to the city, in time of need.
The fort of Plaquemines, about thirty-six miles from the sea, is an ill constructed, irregular brick work, in a ruinous state, on the eas tern side of the Missisippi, with a ditch towards the river, and pro tected on the lower side by a deep creek, flowing from the river to the sea. It is, however, almost without defence behind; too much reliance having been placed on the swampiness of the ground, which hardens daily. It might be taken, perhaps, by escalade, without diffi culty. The principal front is meant to defend the approach from the sea, and can mount, at most, but eight heavy guns. It is built at a turn in the river, where ships in general must anchor, as the wind which brings them up so far, is contrary in the next reach, which they mostly warp through, and are therefore exposed to the fire of the fort. On the opposite bank are the ruins of a small closed re doubt, called fort Bourbon, usually guarded by a serjeant�s command. its fire was intended to flank that of the fort of Plaquemines, and pre 78 AMERICAN REGISTER. vent vessels passing on that side. When a vessel appears, a signal is made on one side, and answered on the other. She must send a boat on shore, or be fired on. -
On the eastern bank of the Missisippi, about seventy-five miles above Orleans, are found the remains of the nation of Houmas, or Red Men, which do not exceed sixty persons. No other Indians are settled on this side of the river, either in Louisiana or West Flo rida, though parties of wandering Choctaws sometimes visit this quarter. - -
On the west side of the Missisippi are the remains of the Tounicas. settled near, Pointe Coupee, consisting of fifty or sixty persons.
On the lower parts of the bayou Teche, about thirty miles from the sea, are two villages of Chitimachas, consisting of about an hun dred souls. - The Atacapas, properly so called, dispersed throughout the dis trict, and chiefly on the bayou or creek of vermillion, are about one hundred souls.
The wanderers of the tribes of Bilexis and Choctaws on bayou Cro codile, which empties into the Teche, are about fifty souls.
Two villages of Alibamas in the centre of the district near the church, consist of one hundred persons. -
Conchates dispersed through the country as far west as the ri yer Sabinas and its neighbourhood, are about three hundred and fifty persons.
At Avoyelles, sixty miles from the Missisippi, is a village of the Biloni nation, and another on the lake of the Avoyelles, in the whole about sixty souls.
At the Rapide, eighty miles from the Missisippi, is a village of Choctaws of one hundred souls, and another of Biloxes, about six miles from it, of about one hundred more : about thirty miles higher up the Red river, is a village of about fifty souls. All these are oc casionally employed by the settlers in their neighbourhood as boat I�nen. -
About two hundred miles above Natchitoches, on the Red river, are the Cadoquies, called Cados. They can raise from three to four hundred warriors, are friends of the whites, and are esteemed the bravest and most generous of all the native tribes. They are rapidly decreasing, owing to intemperance and the numbers annually des � troyed by the Osages and Choctaws.
There are four or five hundred families of Choctaws dispersed on the west side of the Missisippi, on the Ouacheta and Red rivers, as far west as Natchitoches, and the whole tribe would have crossed the Missisippi, but for the opposition of the Spaniards and the Indianson. that side who had suffered by their depredations.
Between the Red river and the Arkansas there are scattered the re mains of tribes now almost extinct. On the last river is a tribe of the same name, consisting of about two hundred and sixty warriors; they are brave, yet peaceable and well disposed, have always been attached to the French, and joined them against the Chickasaws, LOUISIANA. 79 whena they have always encountered with success. They live in three villages, the first is fifty miles from the Missisippi on the Arkansas river, and the others are nine and twelve miles, from the first. A scarcity of game on the eastern side of the Missisippi has lately in duced a number of Cherokees, Choctaws, Chickasaws, &c, to fre quent the borders of the Arkansas, where game still abounds: they intermarry with the Arkansas, and seem inclined to incorporate them selves with that nation. The number is considerable, and is every day increasing.
On the river St. Francis, near New Madrid, cape Girardeau, ri viere a la Pomme and the environs, are settled a number of outcast Delawares, Shawnese, Miamis, Chickasaws, Cherokees, Piorias, and are supposed to consist in all of five hundred families: they are some times troublesome to the boats descending the river, and have even plundered some of them, and committed a few murders: they are addicted to liquor, seldom remain long in one place; many of them. speak English, all understand it, and some even read and write it.
At St. Genevieve, mixed with the whites, are about thirty Piorias, Kaskaskias, and Illinois, who seldom hunt, for fear of the other In dians: they are the remnant of a tribe which, fifty years ago, could bring into the field twelve hundred warriors.
On the Missouri and its waters are many large tribes, the best known of which are, the Osages, situated on the river of the same name, on the right of the Missouri, about two hundred miles from its eonfluence with it: they consist of one thousand warriors, who live in two settlements near each other. They are of gigantic stature and well proportioned, are enemies of the whites and of all other Indian nations, and commit depredations from the Illinois to the Arkansas. The trade of this nation is said to be under an exclusive grant. They are a cruel and ferocious race, and are hated and feared by all the other Indians. The confluence of the Osage river with the Missouri is about twenty-five miles from the Missisippi. -
An hundred and eighty miles higher up the Missouri, and onth e same bank, is the river Kanzas, and on it the nation of the same name, but at about two hundred miles from its mouth. It consists of about two hundred and fifty warriors, who are as fierce and cruel as the Osages, and often maltreat those who trade among them.
An hundred and eighty miles above the river Kanzas, and at six hundred from the mouth of the Missouri, on the right bank, is the rivierre Platte, or Shallow river, remarkable for quicksands and bad navigation; and near its confluence with the Missouri dwells the Oc tolactos, commonly called Otos, consisting of about two hundred warriors, among whom are twenty-five or thirty of the Missourina tion, who took refuge among them about twenty-five years ago. An hundred miles up the river Platte are the nation of the Panis, composed of about seven hundred warriors in four neighbouring vil lages; they hunt but little, and are ill provided with fire arms : they often make war on the Spaniards in the neighbourhood of Santa Fe, from which they are not far distant, $9 AMERICAN REGISTER."
ine hundred miles from the Missisippi, and three hundred from the river Platte, on the same bank, are situated the villages of the Mahas. They consisted, in 1799, of five hundred warriors, but are said to have been lately almost extinguished by the small pox.
An hundred and fifty miles above the Mahas, and on the left bank of the Missouri, dwell the Poncas, with two hundred and fifty warri ors, possessing in common with the Mahas, their language, ferocity and vices. Their trade has never been of much value, and those engaged in it are exposed to pillage and ill treatment.
Thirteen hundred miles from the Missisippi, and on the right bank of the Missouri, dwell the Aricaras, who have seven hundred warriors; and an hundred and eighty miles above them the Mandane nation, consisting of about seven hundred warriors. The two last are well disposed to the whites, but have been the victims of the Si oux, or Nandowessies, who being themselves well provided with fire arms, have taken advantage of the defenceless situation of the others, and have, on all occasions, murdered them without mercy.
No accurate discoveries on the Missouri, beyond the Mandane na tion, have been made, though the traders say that many large naviga ble rivers discharge their waters into it far above, and that there are many numerous nations settled on them.
The Sioux, or Nandowessies, who frequent the country between the north bank of the Missouri and Missisippi, are great impediments to trade. They endeavour to prevent all communication with the nations dwelling high up the Missouri, to deprive them of ammuni tion and arms, and thus keep them subservient to themselves. In the winter they are chiefly on the banks of the Missouri, and massa cre all who fall into their hands.
Of the tribes at a distance from the banks of the Missouri, to the north and south, little information has been received. Returning to the Missisippi, and ascending it about two hundred and twenty-five miles above the mouth of the Missouri, the river Moingona, or ri vierre de Moine, enters the Missisippi on the west side, and on it are situated the Ayoas, a nation originally from the Missouri, speaking the language of the Otachatas: it consisted of two hundred warriors before the small pox lately raged among them. - -
The Sacs and Renards dwell on the Missisippi, about nine hundred miles above St. Louis, and frequently trade with it; they live toge ther, and consisted of five hundred warriors; their chief trade is with Michilimakinac, and they have always been peaceable and friendly.
The other tribes on the Missisippi higher up, are but little known to us. Those of the Missouri, though cruel, treacherous, and inso lent, may doubtless be kept in order by the United States, if proper regulations are adopted with respect to them.
No treaties have been made by Spain with the Indians westward of the Missisippi, and its treaties with the Creeks, Choctaws, &c. are superseded by the American treaty with that power of the 27th Oc tober, 1795.
LGUISIANA. - 31
The lands are held in some cases by grants from the crown, but mostly from the colonial government. Perhaps not a quarter of the whole are held by complete titles; and much of the remainder de pends on a written permission of a commandant. A great propor tion is held by occupancy with a mere verbal permission of the offi cer last mentioned. This practice has always been countenanced by the Spanish government, that poor men, when a little at ease, might, at their own convenience, apply for complete titles; meanwhile such im perfect rights were suffered by the government to descend by inheri tance, and even to be transferred by contract. When requisite, they have been seized by judicial authority, and sold for the payment of debts. -
Till within a few years, the governor of Upper Louisiana was au thorised to make surveys of any extent. In the exercise of this dis cretionary power, some abuses were committed : a few small mono polies were created. About three years ago, he was restricted in this privilege, and only authorised to make surveys to emigrants in the following manner : two hundred acres for each man and wife, fifty acres for each child, and twenty acres for each slave. Hence the quantity of land allowed to settlers depended on the number in each family; and they only paid the expense of survey. These sur veys were necessary to entitle the settlers to grants; and the gover nor, and after him the intendant at New Orleans, was alone authori sed to execute grants on the receipt of the surveys from the settlers. The land office is at present under the care of the intendant of the province.
There are no feudal rights nor nobility.
All the lands on both sides of the Missisippi, from the distance of fifty miles below New Orleans to Baton Rouge, are granted to the depth of forty acres, or near a mile and an half, which is the usual depth of all grants. Some have double and triple grants; that is to say, they have twice or thrice forty acres in depth; and others have grants, extending from the Missisippi to the sea or the lakes behind them. In other parts of the country the people, generally settling near creeks or rivers, have a front of from six to forty acres, and almost invariably a depth of forty acres. All the lands ungranted in the island of New Orleans or on the opposite bank of the Missisippi, are sunken, inundated, and, at present, unfit for cultivation ; but may in part be reclaimed at a future day by efforts of the rich and enterprising. -
Sugar may be grown between the river Iberville and the city, on both sides of the river, and as far back as the swamps, Below the city, however, the lands decline so rapidly that beyond fifteen miles the soil is not well adapted to it. Above the Iberville the cane would be affected by the cold, and its produce would, therefore, be uncer tain. Within these limits the best planters admit that one quarter of the cultivated lands of any considerable plantation may be planted in cane, one quarter left in pasture, and the remaining half employed for provisions, &c. and a reserve for a change of crops. One English WOL, IW. M 82 AMERICAN REGISTER. acre may be cypccted to produce, on an average, sixteen hundred weight of sugar, and sixty-six gallons of rum. -
If both sides of the river be planted for ninety miles in length and about three fourths of a mile in depth, the annual product may amount to twenty-five thousand hogsheads of sugar and twelve thou sand puncheons of rum. Interprising young planters say that one third, or even one half of the arable land might be planted with cane. A regular supply of provisions from above, at a moderate price would enable the planter to give a greater portion of his land to cane. The whole of these lands, as may be supposed, are granted; but in the Atacapas country, there is undoubtedly a portion lying on the sea coast, fit for the culture of the sugar cane ; there vacant land is to be found, but the proportion is at present unknown. -
The lands at Terre aux Boeufs, on the Fourche, bayou St. Jean and other inlets of the Missisippi, are south of the latitude supposed to divide those which are fit, from those which are unfit for the cul tivation of the cane. Including these and taking one third instead of one fourth of the lands fit for sugar, the produce of the whole would be fifty thousand hogsheads of sugar.
The following quantities of sugar, brown, clayed and refined, have been imported into the United States, from Louisiana and the Floridas: - In 1799 --- - - - 773,542 lbs. J 800 --- - - - 1,560,865 180 l---- - - - 967,619 1802 --- - - - 1,576,933
When the country was first ceded to Spain, she preserved many of the French regulations, but by almost imperceptible degrees they have disappeared, and at present the province is governed entirely by the laws of Spain, and the ordinances formed expressly for the colony.
The governor has civil and military jurisdiction throughout the province. The lieutenant governor has the same in civil cases only.
Two alcades have jurisdiction, civil and criminal, over the city of New Orleans and fifteen miles around it. Parties that have faero militar or military privilege, can appeal to the governor.
The intendant has cognizance of maritime and fiscal causes, and suits for the recovery of money due by or to the king.
The alcade provincial has cognizance of criminal offences com mitted in the country, or when the criminal takes refuge there, and in some other cases.
The ecclesiastical tribunal decides in all matters respecting the church.
The governor, lieutenant governor, alcades, intendant, provincial Alcade, and the provisor in ecclesiastical causes, are, respectively, sole judges. All sentences affecting the life of the culprit, except those of the alcade provincial, must be ratified by the superior tribunal, or captain general, according to the nature of the cause. The governor LOUISIANA, . 33 cannot pardon criminals. An auditor and an assessor, who are doc tors of law, are appointed to give counsel to those judges; but for some time there has been no assessor. If the judges do not consult those officers, or reject their opinions, they make themselves respon sible for their decisions.
The commandants of districts have judicial power in all pecuniary causes not exceeding the value of one hundred dollars. When the suit is for a larger sum, they commence the process, collect the proofs and remit the whole to the governor, to be decided by the pro per tribunal. They can inflict no corporal punishment except on slaves; but they can arrest and imprison when they think it neces sary; advice of which and their reasons must be transmitted to the governor. -
Small suits are determined in a summary way, by hearing both parties viva voce ; but in suits of greater magnitude the proceedings are carried on by petition and reply, replication and rejoinder reite. rated, till the auditor thinks they have nothing new to say Then all the proofs are taken before the keeper of the records of the court, who is always a notary public.
The parties have now an opportunity of making their remarks on the evidence by way of petition, and of bringing forward adverse tes timony. When the auditor is satisfied, he issues his decree, which receives its binding force from the governor�s signature, where the cause depends before him. -
There is an appeal to Havanna, to be made within five days after the date of the decree, in causes above a certain value. An ulterior appeal lies to the audience, formerly at St. Domingo, but now re moved to some part of Cuba, and thence to the council of the Indies in Spain.
Suits are of various duration. In pecuniary matters the laws en courage summary proceedings. An execution may be had on a bond in four days, and in the same time on a note of hand after the party acknowledges it, or after his signature is proved. Moveable property is sold after nine days warning, and having it three times publicly cried in that interval. Landed property must be likewise cried three times, with an interval of nine days between each, and may then be sold. All property taken in execution must be appraised and sold for at least half of the appraisement. In pecuniary matters the go vernor decides verbally without appeal, when the sum does not ex ceed one hundred dollars. The alcades do the same when the amount is not above twenty dollars. .
In 1799 there were established four alcades de barrio, or petty magistrates, one for each quarter of the city, with a view to improve its police. They adjust all demands not exceeding ten dollars, com mit to prison, and in case of robbery, riot or assassination they can, by calling in a notary, take cognizance of the affair; but then they are bound to remit the proceedings to some other judge, and in all cases to inform them when they have committed any person to prison,
84 AMERICAN REGISTER,
Most suits are on personal contracts, rights to dower, inheritances, and titles to land. Those arising from personal quarrels are gene rally decided in a summary way. The inhabitants are not litigious.
There are not more than three or four attornies: their fees are small. Suits are carried on in writings or escritos, which may be drawn up by the parties themselves, but must be presented by the es cribano or notary who is the keeper of the records of the court.
The judges take twenty-five cents for a half signature or flourish, which is usual on common occasions; fifty cents for a whole signa ...ture, and two dollars and three-fourths for an attendance, as at a sale or the taking of evidence. - -
The Abogado, or person consulted by the judges on law points, receives twelve and a half cents for every leaf of which the process consists, and four dollars for every point of law cited. The attorney, when employed, has sixty-two and a half cents for a simple petition or escrito, but if it be necessary to read a process in order to form his petition, which requires much time and labour, he is paid in propor tion, besides twelve and a half cents per leaf for what he reads. For attendance on any business he is allowed one dollar and fifty cents for the assistance of two and an half hours. The notary has fifty cents for each decree of the judge, twenty-five cents for a notification in his office, and fifty cents for one out of it but within the city; one dollar and seven-eighths for every attendance of two and a half hours on business, and twenty-five cents additional for every leaf of paper written by him. -
A counsellor or two have sometimes resided at New Orleans, but being generally obnoxious to the officers of government, they have not continued there. The counsellor taxes his own services, and in general exacts large sums. The attorney general receives from the party who employs him, more than is allowed by law.
In petty crimes, the cognizance of the proper court is without ap peal; and most commonly such causes are decided in a summary - way. With respect to crimes of deeper dye more solemnity is used. A person skilled in the laws is always named by the court to defend the accused. The trial is private but examinations and depositions in writing are taken privately by the auditor at the time most conve nient to himself, at which nevertheless the counsel of the accused may be present. The accused has also every kind of indulgence in making his defence. Suits are generally tedious and expensive when the culprit is wealthy. The condemned may appeal, as in civil cases, giving security for the payment of the future costs. A capital sentence must be confirmed by a grand tribunal established at St. Jago de Cuba, consisting of five judges, before whom counsellors plead as in our courts.
Great crimes are rare. Murder, by stabbing, seems to be con fined to the Spanish soldiers and sailors. The terror of the ma gistrate restrains assaults, batteries and riots.
Punishments are generally mild, consisting mostly of imprison ment and payment of costs; sometimes the stocks. White men, net LOUISTANA. 85 military, are rarely, if ever, degraded by whipping; and no fines go into the public treasury. Murder, arson, and aggravated robbery of the king's effects, are punished with death. Robbery of private per sons to any amount is punished only by restitution, imprisonment, and sometimes by enormous costs. . Crimes against the king�s re venue, such as contraband trade, are punished with hard labour for life, or for years on board the gallies, in the mines, or on the public works.
There are no colleges and only one public school, which is at New Orleans. The tutors in this are paid by the king. They teach the Spanish language only. There are a few private schools for children. Not more than half of the inhabitants are able to read and write, of whom not more than two hundred are able to do these well. In ge neral they learn nothing beyond those two arts; though they seem to be endowed with good natural genius, and an uncommon facility of learning whatever they undertake.
The clergy consists of a bishop, who does not reside in the pro vince, and whose salary of four thousand dollars is drawn from certain bishopricks in Mexico and Cuba; two canons with each a salary of six hundred dollars, and twenty-five curates, five for New Orleans, and twenty for as many country parishes, who receive each from three hundred and sixty to four hundred and eighty dollars a year. Those salaries, except that of the bishop, together with an allowance for sacristans and chapel expenses, are paid by the public treasury and amount annually to thirteen thousand dollars.
There is also a convent of Ursalines to which is attached about a thousand acres of land, rented out in three farms. It has ten or twelve nuns, of whom all are French. Formerly about the same number of Spanish ladies belonged to the convent, but they retired to Havanna when it was expected that the province would return to France. The nuns receive young ladies as boarders and instruct them in reading, writing, and needle work.
They have always acted with great propriety, and are generally respected and beloved. With an annual allowance of six hundred dollars from the treasury, they always support and educate twelve female orphans.
The executive officers appointed by the governor for each district and called commandants, are generally taken from the army or mili tia. When the settlement is small, some respectable member of it has the civil command, and the militia officer has the direction of mi litary matters. Where there is a garrison, the commandant is deputy to the intendant, and draws on him for all expenses. In that case he has the charge of all matters relating to the revenue within his district.
The commandants superintend the police, preserve the peace of the district, examine the passports of travellers and suffer no strangers to settle within their limits without regular leave obtained from go vernment. They prevent smuggling, certify that all lands petitioned for are vacant before they are granted, and, when required, put the 86 AMERICAN REGISTER. owner in possession. They are besides notaries public, and in their offices are registered all sales of lands and slaves. The contracts for those purposes are made before them. As sheriffs they levy execu tions on property, attend and certify the sale, and collect the proceeds. They also take inventories of the property of intestates. Syndics are established every nine miles who are subordinate to the commandant, decide small causes, and have the police of roads, levies, travellers and negroes. -
The officers of the general government are the following. Beside his judicial power the governor is chief of the army and militia, and head of the civil government. He is also president of the Cabildo, or provincial council. He appoints and removes at pleasure the com mandants of districts. He appoints the officers of the militia, who are nevertheless commissioned by the king, and he recommends mi litary officers for preferment. He is superintendant of Indian affairs. He promulgates ordinances for the good government of the province, but he cannot assess taxes on the inhabitants without their consent. Till the year 1798 he possessed the sole power of granting lands, but it then passed into the hands of the intendant.
The cabildo is an hereditary council of twelve, chosen originally from the most wealthy and respectable families. The governor pre sides at their meetings. Their office is very honourable, but it is acquired by purchase. They have a right to represent, and even re monstrate to the governor, with respect to the interior government of the province. The police of the city is under their control. In it they regulate the admission of physicians and surgeons to practise. Two members of the cabildo serve by turn monthly, and take on themselves the immediate superintendence of markets, bakers, streets, bridges, and the general police of the city. This council dis tributes among its members several important offices, such as algua zil mayor, or high sheriff, alcade provincial, procureur general, &c. The last mentioned is a very important charge. The person who holds it is not merely the king�s attorney, but an officer peculiar to the civil law. He does not always prosecute, but after conviction he points out the punishment annexed by law to the crime, and which may be, and is mitigated by the court. Like the chancellor in the English system, he is the curator and protector of orphans and mani acs, and finally he is the expounder of the law, the defender of the privileges belonging to the town, province or colony, and the accuser of every public officer that infringes them.
The intendant is head of the departments of finance and com merce, and exercises the judicial powers already mentioned. He is entirely independent of the governor, and no public monies can be issued without his express order. The land office is under his di rection.
The contador, treasurer, and interventor, are officers subordinate to the intendant. The first has four clerks under him, and keeps all accounts respecting the receipt and expenditure of the revenue, and is therefore a check on the intendant. The treasurer is no more than � LOUISIANA. - 87 a cashier, and is allowed one clerk. The interventor superintends all public purchases, and bargains. The administrador is also sub ordinate to the intendant, and with a number of inferior officers, ma nages the custom house. Every clerk in these offices receives his commission from the king. -
The auditor is the king's council, who is to furnish the governor with legal advice in all cases of judicial proceedings, whether civil or military. -
The assessor's functions are similar to those of the auditor, and are properly applicable to the intendant�s department.
Both of them are also counsellors of some of the other tribunals.
A secretary of the government and another of the intendancy.
A surveyor general.
A harbor master. -
A store-keeper, who takes charge of all public moveable pro perty.
An interpreter of the French and Spanish languages, and many other inferior officers.
All appointments with a salary of more than thirty dollars a month, are made by the king, and most of those with a lower salary by the governor or intendant as belong to their respective departments. There are no officers chosen by the people.
The following are the salaries and perquisites of the principal of. ficers. Governor annually, 6,000 p. salary 2,000 p. perquisites. Intendant, 4,000 in One. Auditor, 2,000 2,000 Contador, 2,000 '. In One. Assessor, 1,200 1,000 Treasurer, 1,200 In One. Administrador, 1,200 In Olle. Secretary of government 600 2,000
The district commandants receive each an hundred dollars from the king annually, unless they are posssesed of a military cmploy ment or pension.
Instead of local taxes, each inhabitant is bound to make and repair roads, bridges, and embankments through his own land.
A duty of six per cent on the transfer of shipping is assessed upon the sum the buyer and seller declare to be the real consideration. No oath is required from either, and they seldom report more than half the price.
Two per cent on legacies and inheritances, coming from collate rals and exceeding two thousand dollars.
Four per cent on legacies, given to persons who are not akin to the teStatol�.
Civil employments, the salaries of which exceed three hundred dollars annually, pay half of the first year's salary. Certain officers pay it in two annual instalments, and others in .our. The first per son appointed to a newly created office pays nothing, but the tax is }evied on all who succeed him. 88
AMERICAN REGISTER.
Seven dollars are deducted from twenty paid as pilotage by every . vessel entering or leaving the Missisippi; but the treasury provides the boats, and pays the salary of the pilots and sailors employed at the Balize. The remainder is thus distributed : To the head pilot four�to the pilot who is in the vessel four, and five to the crew of the row boat, that goes out to put the pilot on board, or take him ashore.
Forty dollars per annum on licences to sell liquors. -
A tax on certain places when sold, such as those of regidor, no tary, attorney, &c.
But the principal tax is that of six per cent levied on all imports and exports, according to a low tariff. The proceeds of which nett about one hundred and twenty thousand dollars, while all the other taxes are said not to yield more than five or six thousand dollars an nually.
The expenses of the present government comprehend the pay and support of the regiment of Louisiana, part of a battalion of the regi ment of Mexico, a company of dragoons, and one of artillery, which form the garrison of the country, including Mobille ; the repairs of public buildings and fortifications; the maintenance of a few gallies to convey troops and stores throughout the province ; Indian pre sents and salaries of officers, clergy, and persons employed for pub lic purposes, and amount to about six hundred and fifty thousand dollars. A sum in specie, not generally exceeding four hundred thousand dollars, is annually sent from Vera Cruz; but this, toge ther with the duties and taxes collected in the province, leaves usu ally a deficiency of one hundred or one hundred and fifty thousand dollars, for which certificates are issued to the persons who may have furnished supplies, or to officers and workmen for their salaries. Hence a debt has accumulated, which it is said, amounts at present to about four hundred and fifty thousand dollars. It bears no interest. It is now depreciated thirty per cent, not from want of confidence in the ultimate payment of the certificates, but from the uncertainty of the time when, and the want and general value of specie. The whole debt is said to be due to the inhabitants, and to American residents. It would have been long since paid off, but for a diversion of the funds, destined for that purpose, to different and foreign objects.
The products of Louisiana are sugar, cotton, indigo, rice, furs, and peltry, lumber, tar, pitch, lead, flour, horses and cattle. Hands only are wanting to multiply them to an astonishing degree. The soil is fertile, the climate salubrious, and the means of communication be tween most parts of the province certain, and by water. -
The following is a sketch of the present exports of Louisiana: 20,000 bales of cotton of 3 cwt. each, at twenty cents per lb. 45,000 casks of sugar, 10 cwt. each, 302,400 at six cents per lb. - 200 do. molasses, 100 gallons each, 32,000 ditto. $1,344,000 increasing. ditto. LOUISIANA. 89 Indi-go, iminishin 100,000 �dly � Peltry,' 200,000 Lumber, 80,000 Lead, corn, horses and cattle, uncertain, All other articles, 100,000 $2,158,000 There were imported into our territory from Louisiana and the Floridas, merchandise to the following value: In 1799 to the value of $507,132 1800 - 904,322 1801 - � 956,635 1802 1,006,2 i4 The total exports amount to 2,158,000 dollars, the imports, in merchandise, plantation utensils, slaves, &c. to two and an half mil lions, the difference being made up by the money introduced by the government, to pay the expenses of governing and protecting the colony. �r.from the United States to Louisiana and the Floridas: In 1799 to the value of $3,056,268 in foreign articles. 447,824 in domestic do. $3,504,092 In 1800, 1,795,127 in foreign articles. $ 240,662 in domestic do. $2,035,789 t -- In 1801 1,770,794 in foreign articles, 3. 137,204 in domestic do. $1,907,998 In 1802, 1,054,600 in foreign articles. } 170,110 in domestic do. $1,224,710
If the total imports and exports in these provinces, of which the two Floridas form a very unimportant part, be as above stated, namely;
Imports, $2,500,000 Exports, 2,158,000 Making together, $4,658,000 WOL. IV. N 99 AMERICAN REGISTER.
The duty of six per cent alone ought to produce two hundred seven ty-nine thousand four hundred and eighty dollars. The difference between that sum and the actual nett produce, arises partly from the low tariff adopted, but principally from smuggling, which is openly countenanced by most of the revenue officers.
There are few domestic manufactures. The Acadians manufac ture a little cotton into quilts and cottonades; and in the remote parts of the province, the poorer planters spin and weave some negro clothes of cotton and wool mixed. There is one machine for spin ning cotton in the parish of Iberville, and another in the Opelousas; but they do little or nothing. In the city, besides the trades abso lutely necessary, there is a considerable manufacture of cordage, and some small ones of shot and hair-powder. In and about the town, there are twelve distilleries for making taffia, which are said to distil annually a very considerable quantity; and one sugar refinery, said to make about two hundred thousand pounds of loaf sugar.
In the year 1802, entered the Missisippi two hundred and sixty eight vessels, eighteen being public armed vessels, and the remainder merchantmen, as follows;
-American. Shanish. French. Ships, 48 14 Brigs, 63 17 l Polacres, - 4. Schooners, 50 61 Sloops, 9 I Total, 17O 97 l
Of American vessels, twenty-three ships, twenty-five brigs, nine teen schooners, and five sloops came in ballast, the remainder were wholly, or in part laden.
Five Spanish ships and seven schooners came in ballast, the ton nage of all the shipping that entered the river, exclusive of public armed vessels, was thirty-three thousand seven hundred twenty-five, register tons.
In the same year sailed from the Missisippi, two hundred and sixty-five vessels.
JAmerican. Tons. Shanish. Tons. Ships 40 $�:8,972 18 3,714 Brigs, 58 7,546 22 one in ballast 1,944 Sch�rs, 52 4,346 58 3,747 Sloops, 8 519 3 one in ballast 108 Polacres, � - 3 one in ballast 240 158 21,383 104 9,753 - - -- LOUISIANA. � 9 | French, Toms. Total. Tons. Sch�rs, -3 105 Americans 158 21,383 ��. Spanish 104 9,753 French 3 1 O5 Total, -26-5 sail. tons. 31,241 t -
The tonnage of vessels which went away in ballast, and of the pub lic armed ships are not included ; the latter carried away at least a thousand tons of masts, yards, spars, pitch, tar, &c.
In the first six months of the year 1803, there entered the Missi sippi, one hundred and seventy-three sail, of all nations, four of which were public armed vessels, two French and two Spanish, whose ton nage is not enumerated.
.American. Tons. Shanish. Tons. | French. Tons. Ships, 23 5,396 14 3,080 5 1,002 Brigs, 44 5,701 2O 2,173 8 878 Polacres, - - 3 48O 2 436 Sch�rs, 22 1,899 18 1,187 7 488 Sloops, 4. 278 3 167 Total, 93 13,264 58 7,087 22 2,804 Total of Shifts. Total of Toms. American, 93 13,264 Spanish, 58 7,087 French, 22 2,804 Grand total, 173 23, 155 tons. In the same six months there sailed from the Missisippi, one hun dred and fifty-six vessels; .American. Shanish. French. Ships, 21 18 2 Brigs, 28 31 1 Polacres, - 4. - Schooners, 17 26 5 Sloops, 2l - 68 80 8
There is a considerable coasting trade from Pensacola, Mobille, and the creeks and rivers near, and falling into lake Pontchartrain, from whence New Orleans is principally supplied with ship timber, charcoal, lime, pitch and tar, and partly with cattle, and the places before named are supplied with foreign produce in the same way from Orleans. The vessels empl*oyed are sloops and schooners, 92 AMERICAN REGISTER. t some of which are half-decked, from eight to fifty tons: Five hun dred of these, including their repeated voyages, and thirteen gallies and gun-boats entered the Bayou St. Jean last year. There is likewise a small coasting trade between the Atacapas and Opelousas, and New Orleans, by way of the Balize, which would much increase, if there was any encouragement given by government, to clear away a few obstructions, chiefly caused by fallen timber, in the small rivers and creeks leading to them.
NO. I. CE.WSUS OF LOUISI.A.W.A. IN 1785. A�ree DISTRICTS. Whites *Slaves. | Total. color. Balize to the city, - - - 387 67; 1,664; 2,118 New Orleans, - - - - 2,826 563. 1,63 || 5,928 St. Bernardo, - - * - 584 2 - 586 Bayou St. Jean, - - - 91 14|| 573. 678 Costa de Chapitoulas, - � - 1,128 263, 5,645| 7,036 First German coast, - se ** 561 69] 1,273| 1,903 Second ditto, - - - 7 14 5 58 || 1,300 Catahanose, - - - - 9 12 18 402, 1,332 Fourche, - - - - a- 333 � 273 6O6 Valenzuela, - - - - 3O6 - 46|| 352 Iberville, - - - - - 45 i - 222 673 Galveztown, - - - - 237 - 5 242 Baton Rouge and Manchac, - - 68 2 1 OO 17O Ponte Coupee, - - - - 482 4| 1,035. 1,521 Atacapas and Opelousas, - - 1,204 22, 1, 182| 2,408 Ouachita, - - - - 198 - 9 2O7 Avoyelles, - - - - - 149] 1 38 �l 287 Rapide, - - - - - 63 - 25 88 Nachitoches, - - - - 404 8 344 756 Arkanzas, - - - - 148 31 17 196 Illinois, - - - - - 1,139 18 434 1,591 Natchez, - - - - 1,121 �| 438|| 1,559 Mobille and Tombigbee, - - 325 31|| 461| 837 Pensacola, - - - - 384 28 184. 596 14,215] 1,303| 16,544 32,062 LOUISIANA. NO, II. CE.WSUS OF THE DISTRICTS OR POSTS OF LOUISI.M.W.A .A.W.D WEST FLORID.A. NAMES AND SITUATION OF THE POSTS OR DISTRICTS. Whites. Free feofile of color. Staves. Total. Balize to New Orleans, San Bernardo or Terre aux boeufs on a creek running from the English turn east to the sea and lake Borgna. New Orleans and suburbs, Bayou St. Jean and Chantilly, between the city and lake Pontchartrain. Coast of Chapitoulas, or along the banks of the Missisippi six leagues upwards, First German coast, from six to ten leagues upwards on both banks, Second do. from ten leagues, and end ing at sixteen do. Catahanose, or first Acadian coast, commencing at sixteen leagues above the city, and ending at twenty three on both banks, Fouche or second Acadian coast from twenty-three to thirty leagues above town, Valenzuela or settlements on the Ba son de la Fouche, running from the west side of the Missisippi to the sea, and called in old maps the Fourche or Riviere des Chilimachas, Iberville parish, commencing at about thirty leagues from Orleans, and ending at the river of the same name, Galveztown, situate on the river Iber ville, between the Missisippiand lake Maurepas, opposite the mouth of the Amet, Government of Baton Rouge, includ ing all the settlements between thel Iberville and the line of demarka tion, 688 1,382 677 658 2 13 958 1,797 1,335 1 13 21 13 16 1,620 1,046 81.8 464 267 386 26 2,388 66 1 8,056 489 2,064 1,057 247 1,513 94 AMERICAN REGISTER. FAMES AND SITUATION OF THE POSTS or DISTRICTS. Whites Free heofile of color. Slaves. Total.. Pointe Coupee and False River behind it, fifty leagues from Orleans, on the west side of the Missisippi, Atacapas, on the rivers Teche, Vermilion, and &c. to the west of the Missisippi, and near the sea, Opelousas adjoining to, and to the north-east of the foregoing. Ouachita, on the river of the same name or upper part of the Black river, which empties into the river Rouge, . Avoyelles, on the Red river, about leagues from the Missisippi, Rapide, on do. about leagues higher up, Natchitoches, on do. about seventy five leagues from the vissisippi, Concord, an infant settlement on the banks of the Missisippi, opposite Natchez, Arkansas, on the river of the same name, about twelve leagues from its mouth, Spanish Illinois or Upper Louisiana, from la Petite. Prairie, near New Madrid, to the Missouri, inclusive, as per detail No. 2. Mobille and country between it and Orleans, and borders of lake Pont chartrain, Pensacola, exclusive of the garrison (not exceeding) 547 859 1,646 584 785 numb el�s urg known. 3.35 4,948 58 2 197 1,603 530 8O8 48 883 2, 150 1,447 2,454 2:,244 1,768 12,920 42,375
This census is taxen from the latest returns, but is incorrect, the population being underrated; from some places there have been no returns for the last seven years, and from those made this year many causes induced the inhabitants to give in short returns of their slaves and of their own numbers. The Spanish government is fully per suaded that the population at present considerably exceeds fifty thou sand souls.
� i III, No, L.4THO.W.' POPU THE OF STATEME.W'T Sctilements the (f of Productions and Stock, Deaths, Marriages, Births, the with IANA, Lovis UPPER of the 1799. YEAR s|S S. Sy S. �Names of Set. the SSS :A s��. PRODUCTIONS. �$5 �|; Total. "|3: s3. �s/ Pound, Bush, #|Bush. |Pounds |5 &5|ORLEANS. FOR EXPORTS tlements. �3 �� �s of Ind |f of Toof of Q 5|. :- Wheat .Lead. Sa.t. [bacco, Corn. � 601 Louis, St. || 50 6 925 O 20 1,650 10,300. 4,300; || �215 �||1140| � 1811 Carondelet, - 184 Y|* *|4,500|| 2,760. 3,300 �� packs 431,754 198 of Skins Shaved of � 840 Charles, St. -|| 4,05 12,170; 6,645; 11| 395 5: || �valued each, lbs. 100 241 �|1202. at $70,160 �| 259 Fernando, St. - 750 2,350| 5,800] 76 || ��930 57 8 256 Skins, Bear packs 337 Liards, des Marias � .379 7| 6,800 1,604 1,019 �153; 629| �| 18 Robes, Buffalo do. -540 � 115| Maramee, - 115. - 6,370 200; 3, 150 || Lead, lbs. 36,000 12: 229| �| � � 2,160 - 398 527 361 Andrews, St., - 5,465 16,950, 730; � 60 - - Flour, lbs. 2,000 12. 574 � 6S6 Genevieve, St. 1, 2 -- 268 965|150,000|1253; 1,990. 21,450 16,400; 949 560 1|114 � 445 Bourbon, New 14, 55 -|z0,000 "300|| 1430& 1,650; 33$73,176 105 416 Girardeau, Cape . 521 -200 707| �| � � 16,200) 510, �| 711 Madrid, New - 782 -47,765 .243 �||1138|| - -i �| 46! Meadow, Little - 49 - � ;-- 35| � � ��| 2,675] 17.5% 0007080 065170 107129|28,667| 88,349 so 16136||338|6028 4948, == - 96 - AMERICAN REGISTER,
JVotes to the fireceding Table.
All the fine furs are shipped to Canada, as well as a great quantity of deer and bear skins, where they bring a better price than in New Orleans; and this being a contraband trade, no notice is taken of it in the above account of exports, which is the official one.
St. Louis is situated on the Mississippi, five leagues below the mouth of the Missouri.
Carondelet is two leagues below St. Louis, on the Mississippi.
St. Charles is on the Missouri, about seven leagues from its mouth, and about six from St. Louis by land. -
St. Fernando, or Harissaret, is three to four leagues from St. Louis, in a valley, on one of the roads from St. Louis to St. Charles.
Marias des Liards is four leagues from St. Louis, and about a league to the west of the foregoing.
Maramee is on the river of the same name.
St. Andrews is situated about five leagues above St. Charles, on the Missouri.
St. Genevieve is opposite Kaskaskias, and on the banks of the Missisippi.
New Bourbon is about a league below St. Genevieve.
New Madrid is on the Missisippi, fifteen leagues below the mouth of Ohio.' -
Little Meadow is seven leagues below New Madrid, on the banks of the river. --
NO. IV. CE.WSUS OF THE CITY OF ME W-ORLE.A.W.S. - ."ree frto Date. Quarters. Whites. file of Slaves. Total. Color. 1803. First Quarter, 745 2O3 || 546 1,494 Second ditto, 89.1 � 95 1 1,842 Third ditto, 722 787 || 579 2,088 Fourth ditto, 440 2 19 225 884 Sui, urb of St. Charles, 70 � l l 70 240 Do. of St. Louis, 38O 126 || 3O2 808 3,248 || 1,335 | 2,773 7,356 Whole persons not domiciliated, } 7OO - - 700 3,948 8,056 JEacclusive of Seamen and the Garrison.
This Census appears to be incorrect, as by some unaccountable mistake, the number of free people of color in the second quarter, are not included; and on the whole the population is thought to be underrated,
LOUISIANA: 97 NO. V. 1. The Island of New Orleans, with Whites. | Blacks. | Militia. the opposite margin and settlements - adjacent, computed at 25,000 || 25,000 5,000 2. The West margin from Manchac, including Pointe Coupe, and ex tending to the Red river, 4,000 5,000 800 3. Atacapas, along the sea coast be tween the Delta of the Mississippi and the Western boundary, 1,600 2,000 350 4. Opelousas, on the North of Ata capas, 3,750 3,500 750 5. Red river, including Bayou Boeuf, Avoyelle, Rapide, and Nachitoches, (the two first bounding on Ape- - lousas, 5,000 3,000 || 1,000 6. Ouchita (river falling into the Red river from the North), 1,200 100 300 7. Concord, a settlement on the mar gin of the river opposite to Natchez, 200 70 40 8. Arkansa river, 6OO 150 9. New Madrid and vicinity, 1,750 50 350. 10. Illinois and Missouri, 4,000 500 | 1,000 47,150 | 39,220 || 9,74& The settlements of Baton Rouge and New Feliciana, on the east side of the river, lying between lat. 3. “ and the Iberville, including some esta- - blishments on the river Aunit, contain, 3,000 600 600 | 50,150 | 39,820 || 10,340 vol. Iy. Q) -
Notes
- Capuchin A Catholic friar.
*NOTE. Contrary to geographical rules, as I ascended the river, I called the right bank the northern one, and the left the southern.
Text prepared by:
Winter 2020-2021
- Keelan Rucker
- Haley Sharp
- Ashlynn Taylor
Source
Cable, George Washington. "Posson Jone'" and Père Raphaël: With a New Word Setting Forth How and Why the Two Tales Are One. Illus. Stanley M. Arthurs. New York: Charles Scribner's Sons, 1909. Google Books. Web. 27 Feb. 2012. <http://books. google.com/books?id=bzhLAAAAIAAJ>.